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Reddit mentions of NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router (R6700) - AC1750 Wireless Speed (up to 1750 Mbps) | Up to 1500 sq ft Coverage & 25 Devices | 4 x 1G Ethernet and 1 x 3.0 USB ports | Armor Security

Sentiment score: 55
Reddit mentions: 111

We found 111 Reddit mentions of NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router (R6700) - AC1750 Wireless Speed (up to 1750 Mbps) | Up to 1500 sq ft Coverage & 25 Devices | 4 x 1G Ethernet and 1 x 3.0 USB ports | Armor Security. Here are the top ones.

NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router (R6700) - AC1750 Wireless Speed (up to 1750 Mbps) | Up to 1500 sq ft Coverage & 25 Devices | 4 x 1G Ethernet and 1 x 3.0 USB ports | Armor Security
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
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    Features:
  • Recommended for up to 25 devices: Reliably stream videos, play games, surf the internet, and connect smart home devices
  • Wired Ethernet ports: Plug in computers, game consoles, streaming players, and other nearby wired devices with 4 x 1 gigabit Ethernet ports
  • Loaded with advanced technology: Designed with a 1GHz dual core processor, 3 amplified antennas, Beamforming plus, Dynamic QoS, Smart Connect, and more
  • USB connections: Share a storage drive or printer with any connected device or create a personal cloud storage to access from anywhere, using the 1 x 3.0 USB port
  • Safe & secure: Supports WPA2 wireless security protocols. Includes Guest Wi-Fi access, DOS, Firewall, VPN, and more
  • NETGEAR Armor protects your family's WiFi with an automatic shield of security across all your connected devices with a 30-day free trial
  • NETGEAR Smart Parental Controls promotes healthy Internet habits, fosters responsibility and builds trust with your kids (30-day free trial included)
  • Safe & secure: Supports WPA2 wireless security protocols. Includes Guest Wi-Fi access, DOS, Firewall, VPN, and more. System requirements: Microsoft Windows 7, 8, 10, Vista, XP, 2000, Mac OS, UNIX, or Linux. Microsoft Internet Explorer 5.0, Firefox 2.0, Safari 1.4, or Google Chrome 11.0 browsers or higher
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height2.44 Inches
Length11.22 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateDecember 2014
SizeAC1750
Weight1.58 Pounds
Width7.2 Inches

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Found 111 comments on NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router (R6700) - AC1750 Wireless Speed (up to 1750 Mbps) | Up to 1500 sq ft Coverage & 25 Devices | 4 x 1G Ethernet and 1 x 3.0 USB ports | Armor Security:

u/RiotFTW · 21 pointsr/buildapcsales

Nighthawk AC1750 router for 55 bucks! 55 off for prime day and 20 off with a coupon. Just picked one up.

u/zyck_titan · 20 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If I can make a recommendation;

Don't use the modem/router they provide to you, get a third-party Arris or other DOCSIS 3.0 Modem and a Wifi router (I like the Netgear Nighthawk series, but there are other great ones out there).

Yes this is more expensive initially than using the router they give you, but they also charge you equipment fees each month ($10 per month). So over time you will save money with these parts. Plus you own them and can take them with you when you move.

If this seems like it's too much hassle, go ahead and use the modem/router they provide to you.

u/NoleZack · 18 pointsr/buildapcsales

Netgear AC1750 for $54 w/ Coupon. This is not a bad deal for someone needing a newer router.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R2AZLD2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

u/ShevElev · 14 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

My router has a way to limit bandwidth speed for certain devices for certain hours. I imagine many do.

u/Andrew129260 · 9 pointsr/PS4

There is no such thing as a "gaming" router or modem. All of that is marketing fluff.


Having both your own router and modem is a good idea. See here for good examples:

(I am assuming your USA)

Modem:

MOTOROLA 16x4 Cable Modem, Model MB7420, DOCSIS 3.0. Approved by Comcast Xfinity, Cox, Charter Spectrum, Time Warner Cable, and More. Downloads 686 Mbps Maximum (No WiFi) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A1E6BA2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_S9xKCbK9FCPTA

Router:


NETGEAR R6700 Nighthawk AC1750 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_qgyKCbRJE7W46

Wired is always better than wireless. However, if wired is not possible, position the router close to the device and use the 5g band. This is the closest thing to wired on a wireless connection.

u/knot13 · 7 pointsr/gadgets

There are plenty of good routers that are under $120. Heck, the Nighthawk is on Amazon for $99.99 and is a solid choice, and there are other options for cheaper that would still be considered a quality WiFi router.

u/Pokes_Softly · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

I was looking for routers. Here's a few I was watching. Went with just the router don't need a modem.

2 in 1. Modem/router combo.
$140 ARRIS SURFboard SBG7580AC Docsis 3.0 Cable Modem/ Wi-Fi AC1750 Router

Just the router. $75 NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700)

u/mshik3 · 6 pointsr/SiliconValleyHBO

It's a nighthawk router. I currently use it and it's phenomenal, looks badass, and can handle gigabit speeds quite easily.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495048991&sr=8-1&keywords=nighthawk+netgear

u/Ganondorf_Is_God · 5 pointsr/dragonballfighterz

You're not going to have any issues if you're on 5ghz with a wireless N or AC router. They aren't even expensive.

A wireless AC router is just as good as plugging in an ethernet cable and should get you gigabit speeds.

The only caveat is the original PS4 doesn't support 5ghz iirc. The slim and the new one do though and every model of the Xbox One does.

EDIT: I also posted more info in this post too but some ignoramus' (including OP) just downvoted it out of sheer ignorance.

EDIT 2: Here's a link to a great and affordable gigabit wireless AC router. Only 90 bucks. ASUS makes one for about 65 that's almost as good (shittier management interface/options).

u/captainguinness · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Tired of renting our router from Xfinity. Would this be a good purchase?

NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router (R6700) - AC1750 Wireless Speed (up to 1750 Mbps) | Up to 1500 sq ft Coverage & 25 Devices | 4 x 1G Ethernet and 1 x 3.0 USB ports | Armor Security https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OrIlDbK06QEAT

Edit: thanks y'all I love this subreddit

u/sonsonmcnugget · 4 pointsr/cordcutters

I use this Netgear Nighthawk. Works great for me and very affordable. There is a mobile application that makes it very easy to make changes to your network like changing your wifi name and password and managing devices connected to your network.

u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Meh, avoid lowgrade Dlink. i'd go no lower then this guy: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G

For something more sturdier and longer last in regards to hardware specs and heavy internet loads, this one:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2

u/timmeedski · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ummm, nice name.

Depends how in-depth you want to go. If you really want to get into networking, Ubiquiti is a way I recommend. Otherwise, you can just go with something like the Netgear N6700.

Also, do you have TV, or just internet?

u/non_target_eh · 3 pointsr/failingupwards

This is gonna sound so lame but I upgraded my wireless router - got this one at about 50% off - my airport extreme has been fucking up lately - which sucks because I really like it. But my printer is having problems connecting to it and the firmware finally stopped updating on it.

u/mr_biscuits93 · 3 pointsr/Comcast

I just went through the same situation (except I don’t need 150). BUY YOUR MODEM AND ROUTER. I’ve rented the modem/router combo from multiple ISPs over the years and they suck (poor range, internet cuts out randomly, needs constant restarts, etc). Plus it’s $132/year that you’ll never see again.

I bought a like-new router and modem from amazon, optimized the channel settings and my setup kicks 5Ghz signal to the furthest reaches of my apartment, something my previous rented modem/router combos could never do consistently.

Edit: my Setup. I saved some money by not buying brand new. The only component you really need to double check is the modem. Make sure Comcast accepts it.
Modem:
ARRIS SURFboard 16x4 SB6183 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem- Retail Package- Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ITIXYR0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Router:
NETGEAR R6700 Nighthawk AC1750 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/xplusyequalsz · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Modem might need to be changed depending on the bandwidth you're getting from Cox, but here's an idea of what you can go with:

Modem

Router

Wireless Access Point

That should fall into your budget. The wireless router might cover your whole house by itself, but I'd still get the access point. Don't get an extender or repeater, they're crap. You need to run a cable from the router (or switch if you have one) downstairs and put the access point there. That will ensure you have good coverage/connectivity throughout the house.

u/xscottw · 3 pointsr/centurylink

The cool thing about CenturyLink Gig service is that you don't need a modem at all. The ONT they provide is akin to the modem in the sense that it Modulates and Demodulates light signals. You just need a good router that supports PPPoE authentication and VLAN tagging usually (that can vary on the region a bit)


This modem appears to be decent for less than $100


Most routers on Amazon/Ebay that have "gig ethernet" and "dual band wifi" should be compatible.


Also don't expect to get gig speeds over wifi ever. That's unrealistic unless you buy the best equipment for clients and for your router. If you need the full speed a hardwired ethernet connection to the router is going to be your best bet.

u/FrankenBerryGxM · 3 pointsr/NHLHUT

Since booting is a felony it's a really serious accusation.

It's also really hard to proof

if proven it is really hard to track.


ever since I got this router I haven't been booted, that combined with getting 200mbps download.

u/SynapticStatic · 3 pointsr/Steam_Link

Just a hair more expensive than your range, but I've been using this for the past few years and it's just fine.

u/thisisnttheusername · 3 pointsr/Rolla

so they provide internet up until the modem I assume. If that is true, then you would be responsible for providing/replacing a router. You can get any old wireless router on amazon or at walmart. If the internet is free, then it's probably not particularly fast. So you won't need something too beefy.

Again, without more information to your situation it's hard to say. However, I think all you need is to replace/upgrade into something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wireless+router&qid=1563222407&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-3

u/MericaMofoUSA · 2 pointsr/TriCitiesWA

You will want your own modem. You may have a $5/month charge for their modem. Or, if you have an older modem, it's probably free.

​

You can check Charter's approved modems I bought a ARRIS SURFboard that was approved by Charter and drastically improved speeds. You'll also want a wireless router, since the SURFboard doesn't have wireless capabilities. I got a Netgear Nighthawk that has been an excellent router for streaming to multiple TVs and gaming.

u/Gumburcules · 2 pointsr/washingtondc

So it looks like Fios is available in Georgetown. If you're just looking for internet I'd recommend their 300Mbps package at a minimum, but with 5 people splitting it I would probably go for the gigabit for $79.99 a month. If you want TV, they have bundles with TV for an extra $20 or $30 a month. I would go with at least the "extreme TV package" if you want TV, because their "preferred" is nothing but Home shopping network and religious crap. If you do Fios, this modem is only $90 on Amazon and can handle speeds up to 1.7 gigabits.

If you're going the cable internet route, Google your modem's specific model number to see what DOCSIS version it is. If it's 3.1, you're good to go with any cable internet package. If it's 3.0, you can still use it with any package up to 550Mbps, but anything over that and you'll be paying for more bandwidth than your modem can handle. If it's 2.0 or below, you need a new modem. If you do need a new modem, just google "DOCSIS 3.1 cable modem" and take your pick.

For cable internet, I recommend RCN. They definitely service Georgetown It looks like they've got a great deal going on right now for gigabit internet and TV for $79.99 a month. That's probably going to be your best bet.

Between moving and switching providers to get a better deal, I've bought internet in DC and set up home networks probably a dozen times by now, so if you have any questions about the process or need help setting anything up feel free to message me anytime.

u/DelusionYT · 2 pointsr/AskTech
What is happening is your Wifi Router isn't strong enough to handle so much devices using so much Wifi at once.Try Buying a stronger Wifi router.

Check out this Router for a fix

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1525441109&sr=1-3&keywords=wifi+router

also make sure the plug you are using still works fine...It might be just that or even both problems.

Goodluck in Advance
u/austin12block · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The other comments are correct. Just thought I would add that when someone is looking for a cheap sub-$100 router, I usually recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/

u/ResidentStevil28 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm pretty much in the same boat as you (except I have 2 hardwired devices as well) and just purchased the TP-Link AC1750, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JD7F7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . The other choice I was looking at was the low end Nighthawk, https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2 .

The nighthawk has a few more options control wise in its software and a bit beefier hardware but for simple router usage the TP-Link should be fine, several of my coworkers recommended this one, THO, one of them said when the Dual Band is on that his phone would drop the wifi until he left just the 5ghz band on, but my other coworkers didn't notice this issues.

u/FlyingSentry · 2 pointsr/UCI
  1. Use an eithernet cord

  2. Get a good WiFi router

  3. Cox is garbage and has horrible reliability and they need to fix their shit or ACC should find a different business ISP.

    I am at Norte, 292 building, and I get up to 50 MegaBYTES per second (400 Megabits). I know that 285 has a huge slowdown issue. Call Cox and complain, the more people, the more "urgent". I use this WiFi router:

    https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1504192716&sr=1-4&keywords=wifi+router
u/Chuck_Yeager_ · 2 pointsr/Chattanooga

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Certified-Refurbished-R7000-100NAR-Compatible/dp/B01HW8XSV0
(refurb. version of this, I would recommend this)

If you don't want refurb, and you don't want to spend $150, then this should work, just not QUITE as well.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2

u/FirstTimeCaller101 · 2 pointsr/NYYankees

I just bought a router like a month ago, AMA.

I got this one My speeds went from like 15mbps down to like 120mbps because I was being throttled by my shitty 15 year old router lol.

u/xIndirect · 2 pointsr/heroesofthestorm

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y8Z5AQZ1G1ZMDKGJJQ7V is the router I'd recommend. Netgears AC routers tend to have less dropped routing tables and overall more stable wifi. Still well within your budget and if you get the R6300v2 instead its only like 70-80 bucks and just as reliable. If you want added stability you could flash it with DD-WRT and there are many guides explaining how to do that.

u/HWTechGuy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If I was looking for a sub-$100 router, this would be my choice.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2

​

​

u/Emerald_Flame · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The next step down I'd recommend that R6900P at about $150

Down from that, I'd say something like the R6700 although you lose MU-MIMO support. Which for you, may not be a big deal since you have a pretty low number of devices. The AC66U would be another good contender for this slot, but it's just slightly more expensive as of the time I'm writing this. But whichever of the 2 is cheaper for you will be a solid buy.

u/boner79 · 2 pointsr/Rochester

>what power of router would I need to utilize the 100mbps?

Theoretically a wireless N router rated N100+ should handle 100Mbps, but that hasn't been my experience and so I'd recommend looking for a dual/tri band wireless N+AC router if you really want to utilize the 100Mbps.

Amazon has a Netgear R6700 AC1750 (N450+AC1300) router for $109.99 - $20 coupon now. It's a decent router for the price and the 5GHz AC1300 band should handle 100Mbps fine.

Theoretically the 2.4GHz N450 band should handle 100Mbps (since it's rated for 450Mbps) but oftentimes devices' 2.4Ghz won't handle it. For example, my iPhone maxes out at 30-40Mbps or so on my router's 2.4Ghz N600 band (Asus AC1900) but I can get my full provisioned 70Mbps speed on my iPhone using the 5GHz AC1300 band. Could just be something funky in my router settings.

If you're a Costco member they have a Linksys AC1900 on sale for $109. Also, I've seen Negear X6 R7900 AC3000 (N450+AC1300x2) tri-band routers on clearance there for $149.

u/tunaman808 · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

If you can limp on with your current setup, I say wait a few months until Wi-Fi 6 routers become common. The people who set Wi-Fi standards are ditching the old letter scheme in favor of simple numbers. So:

Wi-Fi 6 | 802.11ax <--- Newest

Wi-Fi 5 | 802.11ac <--- Current

Wi-Fi 4 | 802.11n

Wi-Fi 3 | 802.11g

Wi-Fi 2 | 802.11b

Wi-Fi 1 | 802.11a <--- Oldest

It's likely that you don't have any Wi-Fi 6 clients, but I just can't bear the thought of you throwing down $$$ on a new router today that will be out if date in a matter of months, ya know?

Netgear has a Wi-Fi 6 router out now, but at $300 it's a bit spendy. If you just can't take it any more and don't want to wait, I'd buy a Nighthawk R6700 - it's probably the best sub-$100 router out there.

u/SittingWonderDuck · 2 pointsr/Comcast

I too was looking for a clear answer. I did my research so here you go. This can support your 75 Mbps

 

Router:

NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EvpozbE2JTKBN

 

Modem:

u/Aspirant_Fool · 2 pointsr/techsupport

There are dozens of routers available for less than $150 that would offer much better performance than what you have now and support more advanced features like bandwidth monitoring. The easiest way to identify something as trash, although there are exceptions, is to ask the following questions:

  1. Can you see antennas on it?
  2. Does it cost more than $40?

    If the answer to both is no, you could probably spend $15 at Goodwill or a yard sale and walk away with a comparable router.

    Generally, the bigger and dumber looking a router is, the more capable it will be. This is unfortunate, but mostly true until you start looking at commercial-grade items. For home use, something like a TP-Link Archer C7 or Netgear Nighthawk R6700 would make for a good entry point into higher-end routers. Both are <$150, have bandwidth monitoring capability out of the box, should provide improved range and speed versus your current router, and add AC support, which will offer shorter range but much higher speed to devices that support that standard. Routers are one of the few items where 'what's available locally' is actually a reasonable question to ask.

    Since your goal is to gain bandwidth monitoring capability without sacrificing performance or paying more than $150, I'd head down to Best Buy or Walmart or Currys or whatever you have nearby, see what they've got in your price range, remember the "Is it trash?" test, and google to make sure that specific model has bandwidth monitoring capability.
u/snorkelbagel · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Powerline adapters suck. I’m forced to use one when networking my parents house and it can drop out when (it’s plugged into the garage to get wifi to that end of the house / yard) high power draw appliances pull power to charge when in the garage when plugged into the same faceplate. Basically all the random yard hardware can only charge using one of the other power socket plates. Not terribly limiting in a garage with like 5 outlets but most bedrooms and hallways don’t have this luxury.

How comfortable are you crimping your own ethernet cables? You can get 500ft of unshieldes cat5e pure copper cable for about $45 and there’s a 15% off coupon presently (15SAVE) that’ll basically mitigate shipping.

Get a half decent router like a budget nighthawk (NETGEAR R6700 Nighthawk AC1750 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1CNYAbM5CRD63) or this tp-link (TP-Link Archer AC1750 Smart WiFi Router – Dual Band Gigabit, Qualcomm Inside (C7) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EDNYAbFWANCWK) - the nighthawk has a $10 coupon so they are basically the same price.

Then drop a cat5e line to the basement and buy a cheap $15 router down there and set it to AP mode.

ASUS RT-N12/D1 Wireless-N300 3-in-1 Router / AP / Range Extender http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=33-320-168

This one has decent software on it.

u/nanoo_nanoo · 2 pointsr/baltimore

Buy this cable modem: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XH46MWW

Buy this router: hxxps://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00Z0V2NQ8

The cable modem even has a $10 off coupon right now, making it $44 shipped with prime.

u/9thWd · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yeah I was thinking of going with something else, the sound is too bothersome.

This is the one I have
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00R2AZLD2

u/Jpdeg96 · 1 pointr/Chattanooga

Both my girlfriend and I have this router which we both bought used for around $60- $70. Wired connection we pull 950 up/down. Roughly half over wireless. Don't buy these $200 routers that people are linking you. I do some heavy gaming and work from home (I use A LOT of bandwidth) and I've never had any issues throughout my one year of ownership.

u/l0wk3yg33k · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Well if drilling holes is out of the question then my 1st suggestion would be to run that long, ugly, tacky LAN cable from the router to the PC as suggested. 2nd suggestion would be to move your PC to the same room as the router and run a LAN cable. 3rd suggestion (depending on your ISP) would be to get a really good wireless AC router and have the desktop set up wirelessly. If you're concerned about throughput I have a Netgear NightHawk AC1750 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R2AZLD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and in my one BR apartment, I get almost full throughput everywhere wirelessly. I believe it has QOS as well so you would be able to configure the settings to give your desktop top priority and throttle every other device and you can also enable guest wifi to save your own bandwidth. I pay for 300 down and 30 up from my ISP and I have no issues gaming wirelessly on my PS4. It might be worth a try.

u/bpgould · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Do you need the WiFi above gigabit speeds? At 1200 sq. ft. most $80+ routers will cover the area. I saved some money and went with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R2AZLD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I haven't had any problems. It also has a USB 3.0 for network storage and 4 gigabit ports.

u/Peejaye · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Well it depends, I have comcast and we get telephone through them so I had to get a modem with telephony. I picked up this modem arris tm722g.
Make sure your ISP supports it before you pick it up, they are super picky.

For a router - I went with Netgear nighthawk R7000.

u/FattyLite · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've enjoyed this one.

u/Kvasiris · 1 pointr/singapore

Looking to buy this wifi router on amazon. Anybody knows if it works with singapore power sockets?

u/Stevie212 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thats a nice setup is you have that bandwith! otherwise its a bit overkill. I recently got a Surfboard and a Nighthawk AC1750 and I love both.

u/justathoughtfromme · 1 pointr/kansascity

I use a Nighthawk 1750, which has been phenomenal. There were a few corners of my house where WiFi would be inconsistent. Since I got that guy, I've had no problems at all. The coverage now goes over my entire yard too, so I can stream music when I'm outdoors without having to resort to my phone data.

Amazon has it Used - Very Good for ~$54 after a 20% discount. I paid twice that new and it was still worth every penny.

u/IamAbc · 1 pointr/Comcast

What's your guys opinion on this? It's like the cheapest one on Amazon with the highest stars and reviews. My router is this guy

u/stranger242 · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'd go with this one

TP-Link AC1750 Wireless Wi-Fi Gigabit Router (Archer C8) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2ROH0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AZ4OCbW7CABVP

Or

NETGEAR R6700 Nighthawk AC1750 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o04OCbXC78BX2

u/longjohnsilver30 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_96UWzb7ARVBP2

Here is a simple and easy to setup router that should be fine for an apartment

u/VAN1SH1NG · 1 pointr/Comcast

The Netgear I linked to is just a modem. It will only have one port (no wireless) which needs to be connected to a router.

If you do a lot of online gaming on the Xbox and don't have to have wired downstairs, it would probably be best to have the modem in the same room to use a wired connection.

I doubt the two floor townhome would be big enough to have significant concerns over wireless performance. But I will point out a couple options you may not be aware of. First you can set up a wireless bridge which is essentially a wireless cable. The device acting as the bridge would normally have 4 or 5 wired ports to plug into. This of course still depends on a good wireless connection between the router and bridge device. But the advantage is that the bridge can have stronger wireless antennas and is better able to communicate with the router than the built in wifi on devices like game consoles or laptops.

The other option is powerline adapters which actually provides networking over powerlines. Simple plug one into the wall near the router and connect a cable to it, and then plug in one or more into other electrical outlets. Powerline performance can vary greatly though. In some homes they work nearly as well as running an ethernet cable, but in some homes they are completely unreliable. In most cases they will at least work well enough for streaming and anything else other than gaming. Gaming over powerline is certainly possible if they end up working well in the townhome.

In a two bedroom townhome these probably aren't necessary, but something to keep in mind if the xbox isn't wired and the connection isn't stable.

For the router/wireless..

Personally I am a big fan of Ubiquiti products, but they are a lot more advanced than routers designed for home use. Their routers do not have wireless built in, but rather they sell separate wireless access points (Unifi). I use an Edgerouter X which costs about $50 and a single Unifi AC wireless access point. I have the Unifi AC Pro which is $130, but there are also the Unifi AC Long Range ($100) and Unifi AC Lite ($80) and any of them should be fine. The Pro is capable of a bit higher speeds, but the extra speed would likely only be beneficial if you are sending files between your devices (Plex media server for example). Just make sure you don't get the older non AC models.

While they are more advanced they really aren't very difficult to set up. With the Edgerouter you basically just need to login to it and select a wizard (specifically the one named WAN+2LAN2 which will set it to act like most any home router). Then for QoS (quality of service) to prevent streaming, etc to cause a lot of spiking while gaming, you go to the QoS tab to enable Smart Queue and then simply enter the Download/Upload speeds of your Comcast plan.

Unifi wirelss access points are a little different in that you can't directly access them to manage. Instead you install Unifi controller software on your computer to configure all Unifi devices on your network. There are a lot of advanced options for Unifi but basically all you need to do is go to settings and add one or more wireless network, being sure to set the security to WPA Personal with a security key (password).

Aside from Ubiquiti I have had the best experience with ASUS Routers. Probably just about any of the ASUS dual band wireless AC routers would be fine (such as https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-AC1750-4-Port-Gigabit-RT-AC66U_B1/dp/B01N08LPPP/). Not sure how well their QoS features work since haven't used them, but I imagine. Netgear Nighthawk AC routers also have a great reputation although I never used them personally. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00R2AZLD2/

So recommend one of the following:

  1. Unifi Edgerouter X ($50) plus one of their Unifi AC wireless access points ($80-130)

  2. ASUS dual band AC router such as the RT-AC66U (around $100)

  3. Netgear Nighthawk dual band AC router such as the R6700 (around $90-100)

    Along with the Netgear modem
u/mmtree · 1 pointr/buildapc

Powerline is useless, I don't know why people suggested it. Also, what is your actual speed on speedtest, ie what are you paying the internet company for. When these devices say "300mbps" or what have you, that's not necessarily your internet speed as much as your network speed(From computer A to computer B, how fast can I transfer?). Most newer routers these days can handle gigabit internet (1000mbps from the modem to your computer via ethernet cable), now that doesn't mean it will allow the devices to utilize that on wifi appropriately--hence these newer routers. my router is rated for 5334 Mbps but this is really theoretical and only applies to LAN transfers.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506524032&sr=1-3&keywords=netgear+router

my brother picked up this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8IPLD8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and he says it's outstanding (gamer, router is located on the complete opposite side of the house and he has no issues). My performance on devices drastically changed when I upgraded my router(asus rt5300, overkill but my god is it glorious)

u/tomkatt · 1 pointr/theNvidiaShield

The Netgear AC1750 works great with it on Gamestream over 5GHz, even when both endpoints (the tablet and PC) are on wifi.

u/PqpX · 1 pointr/verizon

They already know I am purchasing my own router. I'm looking at the Nighthawk models and trying to decide if I should get the r6700 or the r700P. Think its worth the extra cash for the r700P? Almost 50% price difference.

u/DubhghlasDeSix · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thank you for the help. Unfortunately, our budget at the moment only allows for one or the other. I'm wondering if the Archer C7 is maybe our best bet? Or, would we still be ok with just the Unifi? Maybe it is best if I show you what I'm looking at. Considering we have 150 mbps speed, which of these is my best option?

This Unifi, which has multiple models and I don't know which one I should go for

This Archer C7 router and modem bundle, which I think is what you're talking about

Or should I combine this modem with this wifi router?

Or, if I'm completely missing the point, should I combine this modem with this Unifi? The Unifi is kind of pricey, so I'm wondering if this cheaper model will handle my speed just fine. At most, we have 1 computer gaming, 1 Amazon Fire-Stick streaming, and 2 phones connected to WiFi.

I know some of this doesn't line up with what you're saying, but I'm trying to incorporate what I'm learning with what my budget is :/

u/KingdaToro · 1 pointr/Fios

Any router will work. That one's probably overkill, I'd go for this one or this one.

Here's how you swap routers, in detail. Make sure you have your new router and the MoCA adapter.

  1. Have both routers plugged in and turned on. Nothing but the power cord should be connected to your new router.

  2. Log in to the Verizon router's settings pages, go to Broadband Connection, and press DHCP release. As soon as you do this, unplug the cable from the WAN port of the Verizon router. This ensures that the new router will be able to connect to the internet right away.

  3. Plug that cable into the WAN/Internet port of your new router. Log in to its settings pages and make sure the internet works.

  4. Unplug the cable from the LAN port of the Verizon router and connect it to a LAN port of your new router.

  5. Unplug the Coax cable from the Verizon router and plug it into the Coax In port of the MoCA adapter.

  6. Connect an Ethernet cable between the MoCA adapter's Ethernet port and a LAN port on your new router.

    At this point you can send back the Verizon router.

    Also note that you don't have to do all this in order. Basically, you just need to move the WAN/Internet cable from one to the other and make sure you can get internet on the new one, then move over all the LAN devices including the Coax cable (to which you'll add the MoCA adapter).
u/hiryuux · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

The R6700 router is on sale for $79.99 right now actually, in case you don't need a modem - but I wouldn't say its two for the price of one, rather a router at normal price plus a free cable modem.

https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-AC1750-Router/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521647131&sr=8-1&keywords=R6700

u/bman87 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

A quick amazon search came up with this. Your question for the best router for $xx amount is one of the more popular questions I have seen in this subreddit, a little searching around you might find what you are looking for, or someone else will reply here with a better suggestion

u/ilikedamoney · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

thanks again for your fast replies. I really appreciate this. Im just going to return these APs since it doesnt seem like i will need them. So i just want to quadruple check the configuration while im still able to return the things i bought. So here is my final question and im sorry to keep berating you with questions... So youre saying i can have it be my Comcast Cisco DPC3941B Modem/Router connected to my Ubiquiti Unifi US-8-150W Switch connected to 5 routers.. something like 5 NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700) and that will work? And if so, how will i assign the IPs to each of the routers? Would i use comcasts online management thing or ubiquiti's switch management thing? lol again thanks so much and im sorry for all the novice questions.

u/EdithKeelerMustDie · 1 pointr/technology

First, for a modem+router to work you need to receive service from a internet service provider (Cox, At&T, etc.) not from a mobile carrier (T-Mobile, Sprint). Do you already receive receive service from a internet service provider? Someone would be paying them a monthly fee and you would be receiving internet to your home from a cable/coax outlet or a DSL outlet.

Second, Nighthawk equipment is typically targeted to intense internet usage. Nighthawk's maximum capabilities will generally not be realized unless you are paying for the highest internet subscription from your ISP and also using multiple network-taxing PCs for gaming, livestreaming, and downloading. If all you want is faster internet for a few home devices like phones, you can use a cheaper modem and a cheaper router.

The first Nighthawk router you linked is designed for train stations and mansions with all smart appliances, not for typical home use. There's probably no reason for you to fork over $450 for it.

The second Nighthawk router you listed for 60 GHz, which means super fast speed but doesn't work outside of close proximity (like 10 feet). While 60 GHz chips have been developed, basically no commercial devices use them, only prototypes. I imagine 60 GHz will eventually be used for 4K streaming to smart TVs located near the router, but it's just not worth forking over $400.

Third, pick a modem that matches the speed of your subscription with your ISP. Here is a guide for picking a cable modem. Basically, higher DOCSIS version number (3.1 vs 3.0) and higher number of channels (32 vs 16 vs 8) means higher capabilities and more expensive. For typical home internet use, DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem with 8 channels is plenty. This is the type of cable modem I have, and it supports my 100 Mbps internet subscription. A DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem with 8 channels should be about $50. If you really want to make sure you match your internet subscription, you can get a DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem with 16 channels for about $80-$90. You probably don't need the Nighthawk DOCSIS 3.1 cable modem with 32 channels that you listed, which is about $150.

Here is a guide for picking a DSL modem. Basically, a VDSL modem has higher capability than an ADSL modem. An ADSL modem might not be fast enough for your typical home use, but you can get an ADSL modem for about $40-$50. VDSL modems should work for your typical home use. VDSL modems are usually sold a as a combination modem+router, rather than a standalone modem. You can get a VDSL modem+router with a faster router half for about $120+. You can get a VDSl modem+router with a slower router half for about $70.

Fourth, pick a router that suits your home use. You want a router that (1) has fast speed and (2) has enough range for a signal to reach you based on your home size. Here is a brief guide of routers speed. Basically, WiFi "AC" protocol is the standard for home use, and higher numbers after the "AC" (AC 1900 vs AC 1750) means faster speed. AC 1200 routers are typically about $405-$50. AC 1750 routers are typically about $80. AC 1900 routers are typically about $120. You might notice the speed difference between 1200 and 1900. You probably won't notice the speed difference between 1750 and 1900. Anything above 1900 you probably won't be able to tell the difference.

There isn't really a guide on router range. Router manufacturers have collectively agreed not to advertise their signal strengths. So you have to look around the internet for reviews, or do your own tests. You can do you own tests by buying multiple routers, using any of the millions of free Wi-Fi strength apps on the app store, and returning the the routers with lower strength. I tested some routers this way and ended up keeping this router.

I prefer standalone routers. They sometimes perform better than combination modem+routers because designers didn't have to worry about incorporating a modem. Also, I can swap them out without having to buy a new modem. However, you can also buy a combination modem+router to save space. But make sure the modem half matches your internet subscription, and the router half matches your home use. By paying for a decent internet subscription, matching my modem to the internet subscription, and matching my router to my home, I have the best in-home WiFi of any of my friends.

EDIT: Fifth, wait for Black Friday and Cyber Monday electronics deals. Electronics usually go on sale the weekend after Thanksgiving. You might be able to pick up compatible modems and routers for cheaper.

u/throwawaypaycheck1 · 1 pointr/raleigh

Not if you’re going to Best Buy or Amazon. Most if not all should be fine.

For what it’s worth here’s the modem I have.

And the router if you need it.

u/nlflint · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Any wireless router with 802.11AC and 1000+ reviews (4-5 star avg) will work fine.

NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router (R6700) ($70): https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router ($58): https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G

Edit: By the way, DHCP a feature in all routers that assigns IP address when devices connect. There should only be 1 DHCP service running on a network or else they conflict and cause trouble.

u/KSledneck · 1 pointr/computers

Here is my suggestion Here. Its what i got my parents awhile back who were having issues with range. Keep in mind the 2.4 ghz channel is better for range. Also, do you need a modem?

u/KAABIIO · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Hey all, I'm wondering which is the better router here.

I recently bought this one on amazon, but this is still within the return window if the other one is better:

TP-Link AC1900 Long Range Wireless Wi-Fi Router - Amazon's Choice for Essential Wi-Fi Router (Archer C9) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kLnDzb7T0R6DT

Below is the router that just went back on sale. I'm wondering if it's better than the above router to justify me returning the TP-Link.

NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FInDzbR34GW34

Thanks!

u/AdversarialPossum42 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Yeah I'd put money on that being the source of your problem. The 2.4GHz spectrum is already crowded with so many things: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, wireless devices like keyboards, mice, game controllers, etc. Add an entire household of devices and the poor network is going to be crying for mercy.

So you have a few choices going forward:

  • There might already be a separate 5GHz network available. Do you see anything like YourNetworkName-5G?
  • Switch the WOW gateway to 5 GHz, if it's even supported by the device. WOW tech support might be able help with this. If you can find the model number on the device, I might be able to dig up the directions.
  • Get your own router. Put the gateway into "passthrough" mode and turn off its Wi-Fi, the use your router for 2.4GHz and 5GHz. Most new devices are dual-band. I like this Netgear R6700.
  • If you want a completely hands-off approach, at the cost $14.99/month, call up WOW and have them switch you over to their Whole-Home WiFi, which uses Eero devices, which are pretty good from what I hear.
  • Combine the last two options and buy your own Eero devices. Given the cost of WOW's whole-home service, this will pay for itself in about two years. ($393.30 / $14.99/mo = ~26 months)

    Edit: typos
u/LawHero4L · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Do you use Comcast for phone service? If so, you can't get rid of the rented gateway, unfortunately, but it can be placed in bridge mode and you can then put a router behind it to take over. If that is your situation, then a router like the TP-Link Archer C7 ($92) is a good choice. I'm a big fan of the Netgear R6700, which is a more powerful router than the C7 and is $88 if the coupon is available to you on Amazon.

If you do not use Comcast for phone, you can return the rented gateway and use your own modem and router. For simplicity's sake, here is a solid modem/router combo for $130 at Amazon.

u/Qtrpounder · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I have had this one (Netgear AC1750 R6400) for over a year now and it has been very solid. It's on sale at Newegg for $90 right now. IIRC it is just a step below the NightHawk line. Of course Amazon also has the NightHawk AC1900 R6700 for $99.99 right now too.

R6700 NightHawk

R6400

u/sliight · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I like the Netgear nighthawk routers. Love being able to manage from my phone, and it runs both 2 and 5ghz channels

NETGEAR R6700 Nighthawk AC1750 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I.u2BbMQYY7V2

The ac1750 is right on max budget. Apply coupon available on Amazon and it's $90 right now...

If they don't charge you monthly for a modem, then rent isn't a bad idea. I've never heard of them free though...

u/GreenChileEnchiladas · 1 pointr/techsupport

> Arris XB6

Wow. Just a quick google shows that many people are having WiFi issues with this device. Which, on one hand is odd because Arris usually makes a quality device. Though, with just a cursory reading, it seems the only bonus of this device is its MOCA abilities, and that many people are suggesting that due to its poor WiFi preformance it's recommended to just buy a regular modem and then a separate device (for example) to run your WiFi.

Long story - short: It's always better to buy your own devices because the ones you get from your ISP will invariably suck. I doubt your issue is the extension cable, and is probably the pile of crap you're renting from the ISP.

The Motorola Surfboard modem is a tried and true device. Really good. There are many options for WiFi, that's just an example.

u/itsgreater9000 · 1 pointr/boston

the router i got was the Netgear R6700 model AC1750 (i assume you live in a house, so probably bump up your model number so you can get a bigger range, i got the cheapest one cuz im in an apartment)

and the modem was Netgeart CM500 (again, choose a pricier one depending on how many people will be using the internet and if you need 1gbps speeds or something)

both seem good so far, unsure on longevity but my previous modem/router from netgear was like 6 years old so they seem built well.

u/LuffyruleXD · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Anyone know how this one is compared to the NETGEAR R6700 from Amazon for $90?

u/Fearblade98 · 1 pointr/Comcast

alright thanks for the response. its only one tv since i have my pc connected to my tv and my monitor and the living room tv will be using the roku. I should also be good on devices since ill be using the proper modem and This router

u/mrchaotica · 1 pointr/gaming

> Why metal chassis?

Aside from the fact that you don't have to worry about this yellowing issue, you mean?

Well, there's also the fact that, because it's a pain in the ass to work with, electronic devices with metal chassis tend to be more similar to rectangular prisms, which is better industrial design because then you can stack things on top of them. Compare this metal ethernet switch to the equivalent plastic one, for example. (I would have preferred to use a router as an example instead of a switch because there's even more gratuitous bullshit, including ones you can't even wall-mount or put flat against a surface(!!!), but it's too hard to find a metal-chassis one to compare against.)

Not to mention, it's often the case that I just like the aesthetic of metal better (e.g. in the case of electronics, metal is often more professional/industrial looking). And not just for electronics: I'm also generally a fan of mid-century-modern design, and since most kinds of plastics hadn't been developed commercially yet (except for Bakelite), most products back then were metal. Because design is subject to the limitations (and advantages) of the medium, today's plastic products would have a hard time replicating that look/feel even if they tried.

Consider a Radio Flyer stamped-steel wagon, for instance: the rolled edge of the body was easy to grip tightly for a kid riding in it (or an adult picking it up), the steel made a satisfying clang when you dumped rocks into it, and it had a strongly-horizontal, lithe look. In comparison, a plastic wagon has convex sides that are probably easier to manufacture but harder to grip, surely makes a dull thud when stuff is dumped in it, and just looks thick and bulky compared to the metal version. (Note: I suspect that the difference in noise is not only due to the material properties of steel vs. plastic, but also the geometric fact that stamped steel uses embossing or corrugation to increase the strength of panels, while injection-molded plastic uses ribs instead: the varying thickness of the latter probably deadens the reverb more.) Moreover, the versatility of plastic tempted the designer to add a bunch of extraneous bullshit like a big depression/footwell in the middle, fold-down seat backs, and even fucking cupholders (which you can see in this photo)! The result is that the horizontalness is destroyed and it just looks like a bulbous mess.

Granted, that plastic wagon is probably objectively superior to the classic steel design, in the sense that it won't rust (give or take the axles) when left out in the rain and appears safer and more comfortable for kids to sit in. But even then, the steel design is better because it's worse! The fact that the steel design affords not only the ability to grip the edge, but the need to as well because the sides are low and you're riding more on top of it than in it, creates the opportunity for experiences that the plastic design precludes. If I were a kid planning to ride one down a hill, I know which design I'd pick! In short, if all wagons were plastic, this would not exist.

Finally, I don't know why -- maybe its survivor bias, maybe it's the fact that steel has more heft than plastic, or maybe it's (as you mentioned) simply because it costs more -- but I feel like most products seem more high-quality if they're made out of metal. I guess it's probably mostly the latter reason, because the same phenomenon applies to e.g. hardwood floors in houses: they seem upscale now in comparison to cheap nylon carpet or vinyl laminate, but the reason oak strip flooring is so common in old houses is because it was the cheapest flooring available at the time. Heck, maybe it isn't even the higher-cost itself, but merely the signal that picking a higher-cost material conveys: implying that the designer is optimizing for quality instead of cheapness.

u/SeanBlader · 1 pointr/Vive
  1. What about the cables going from your computer to the linkbox, are they HTC factory or are they longer? The wifi may be inducing voltage changes and interfering with your data.

  2. You have wifi, that means you have a wifi router, like this:
    https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2/
    Just so you know.
    A lot of wifi routers recently have just been adding more antenna's and more power in order to improve signal coverage. This is objectively bad given that 5gHz radio waves don't pass through walls very well, so that's why you can often detect your neighbor's wifi, I have 17 SSID's in my list and none of them affect my Vive or Vive Pro. So my suggestion was to turn off your wifi router and see if it's the culprit. Or at the very least go into the router settings and decrease it's dba output to see if that helps.
u/Greg00135 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I recently picked this up for $66. Been running it for about a week now without issues. (Live by myself but have a lot of wifi devices for Home Automation).

NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_pCJkUxhrOTR2a

u/networkhappi · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

This one is the 6700, is that still ok if it's not the 7000?

I'm looking at that one because it's on sale right now on Amazon.

EDIT: Found out it's the 6700

u/LoverOLife · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Techies!

We struggle with wifi connection at our end of the house, I want to improve the connection. I did try a wifi extender but that was no help.

I am comparing two routers and would love some help.

Medialink AC1200

or

Netgear R6700 Nighthawk

Thanks for any help!

u/RaiN_Meyk3r · 1 pointr/Twitch

i have it wired, just noticed its using the wireless from the screenshot, something may have damaged the cable probably... that explains why it changed like that from night to day, but how would that explain dropping frames when recording?

​

this is the router i have: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1550265102&sr=1-5&keywords=netgear+router

​

the A1900 version

u/theelephantasm · 1 pointr/techsupport

I would recommend this one,

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00R2AZLD2

It's on sale for 90 right now so cheaper than your 100 limit. I would also recommend getting your own modem eventually. This one should be pretty future proof (fast) for you,

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-download-1-4Gbps-Certified/dp/B01M981YYL/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?hvadid=74148473320044&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvqmt=e&keywords=charter+spectrum+modem&qid=1551047796&s=gateway&sr=8-6&tag=msnsmartus-20

It's pricey at 90, but that's one time payment of 90 VS paying 10 a month to rent for however long you use them. It's also rated for other internet providers as well so you can switch services and keep the same device.

Just as others have said, avoid those, "gaming" routers. It's gimmicky garbage. Also avoid combo modem/routers. Too many points of failure that could take out your whole network, and they sacrifice capabilities for convenience.

And lastly, I always recommend to hardwire heavy use devices to your router. More reliable and don't have to worry about signal strength and throughput. Use cat5e or higher.

u/squired · 1 pointr/Addons4Kodi

Ouch, you should definitely look at getting a decent router. That will help a great deal. Something like this.

u/Weird0ne3z · 1 pointr/timewarnercable

Here's a modem: ARRIS SURFboard SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem - Retail Packaging - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHDZSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Yn3.ybCGVCYTN

Here's a router: NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dp3.yb98N8XFH

Before you buy, take note you'll need to give the MAC address of the modem to Spectrum/TWC support over the phone or through their website from an Internet enabled device to activate it. You'll also need to buy something based on your needs, 10mbps/100mbps/1000mbps.

u/glowinghamster45 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Oh you already have it? Well yea, I'd definitely go ahead and call Comcast to make the swap as soon as you've got a wireless router in hand as well. I brought all my own hardware to my new place a year ago with Time Warner, wasn't any hassle at all.

Personal note, Google Wifi is cool and all, but it's main strength is in niche cases where you have a huge house or a house with tons of brick that causes dead zones. For the cost of a single puck, you can get a router that will perform significantly better in most cases. If you're looking at getting multiple, something like this would still be significantly less and be great.

u/seedsrmj · 1 pointr/techsupport

Thanks, I was about to buy the Asus 1300 today but now I see a sale on Netgear AC1750 (R6700) making it the same price as Asus 1300. It's going on sale now on Amazon and I am confused if I should get the Asus 1300 or Netgear AC1750? Do you know if Netgear one is an older model when to compared to Asus?

Netgear AC1750 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R2AZLD2

Here is the link to the sale - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R8W11Z

u/redlukas · 1 pointr/wifi

this is a router that i had for a long time and it has served me well.

u/jaff5 · 1 pointr/Comcast_Xfinity

Also, how is this Netgear unit? link

u/sarge-m · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LZLfAb1AFS8GT

u/zephiKK · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I'm surprised all of the other posts in this post doesn't mention your router and the capabilities of WiFi.

  1. Your router is very old and doesn't even support 802.11ac.
  2. Your router is dual-band but it is a bit insignificant because it's outputting 2.4 GHz and 5.0GHz but only at 802.11n capabilities.
  3. 802.11n is capable of going up to 300 Mb/s speeds theoretically. Keyword theoretically, a lot of speed is lost in wireless transmission.

    To take things into perspective, I have a RT-AC86U (~$170 router) on gigabit internet. I'm only getting 80 Mb/s on 2.4GHz wireless (20MHz, N Only) in the same room as my router. On 5GHz, I get 500-600Mb/s (80MHz).

    If you want to expand your internet capabilities on WiFi, you should buy a router that is capable of 802.11ac with a good range on 5GHz.

    Like you said, it is a "brand new" router that you purchased, I suggest you return it and pick another router with 802.11ac minimum.

    Some popular routers are: TP-Link Archer C7, ASUS AC68U, Netgear R7800, R6700

    https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ is on sale right now. $79
u/NixaB345T · 1 pointr/cordcutters

Netgear Nighthawk AC1750 for router, Netgear CM700 for modem. I bought them 2 years ago on Xfinity 100 mbps internet, I sometimes get 120. I’ve had zero issues with this setup. Read the reviews yourself.

Router

Modem

This should be a great setup unless you have Gig speed internet in which case I encourage you to get the CM1000 for a little more

u/effwit3000 · 1 pointr/pihole

okay, is there a list somewhere of routers that give you that capability? was looking on amazon at some of the gigabit routers. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1524849878&sr=1-3&keywords=gigabit+router this one looked pretty good speed and price wise.

u/FenixSoars · 1 pointr/techsupport

Wireless devices are advertised as being able to transfer up to a certain speed. That means with absolutely perfect conditions on both the test device and the router itself.

With routers, you get what you pay for and if you want semi-realistic speeds of 200mbps over wifi, you'll most likely need a better router. <$100 for a router is meh in the networking world, high speed and longevity for me has been found for ~$150-$200 sweet spot.

I had my Archer C5's set up in a bridge format to basically have a separate network in my home.

Something like this would probably give you better speeds. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-R6700-100NAS-AC1750-Gigabit/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=sr_1_39?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1483582080&sr=8-39&keywords=Netgear+Wireless+Router&refinements=p_89%3ANETGEAR%2Cp_85%3A2470955011

u/WIbigdog · 1 pointr/techsupport

I know ISP's get shit on a lot in America, and mostly for good reason. However, the chance of both ISP's being the cause of under 1mb/s speeds without them noticing something wrong is extremely unlikely.

You're using a very sketchy tech in powerline adapters, as, like u/TheEthyr said, they are not insulated from interference from other things that use power in your house or outside sources. You also likely have a lot of wifi interference going on for your wireless devices, especially if it's a single band 2.4ghz device.

As the other person said, get a laptop, or your PlayStation or something and hardwire it with an Ethernet cable into the modem, then test the speed. If you test the speed that way and it's good, look into getting a dualband router with external antennas so that you can take advantage of the 5ghz freq and more transmit power. Something like this. A good router is going to be more reliable than powerline in most cases.

Also, Call your ISP.

They are the ones best equipped to investigate this issue, and correct any possible problems with their network. Use them along side your own knowledge to come to a solution without undue bias being directed at the isp being the cause.

Thanks for reading.

u/Velsiper · 0 pointsr/ffxiv

For everyone blaming my internet this is what I currently use: