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Reddit reviews on Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown)

Sentiment score: 52
Reddit mentions: 86

We found 86 Reddit mentions of Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown). Here are the top ones.

Premium quiet fan, 40x40x10 mm, 12V, 3-pin Molex, 4500/3700 RPM, max. 17.9 dB(A), >150,000 h MTTFAward-winning 40x10mm A-series fan with Flow Acceleration Channels and Advanced Acoustic Optimisation frame for superior quiet cooling performanceIdeal replacement for noisy or broken 12V 4cm fans in 3D printers, DVRs, NAS, switches, routers, other network and storage devices, etc.3-pin 12V FLX version can be run 4500 or 3700 rpm using the supplied Low-Noise Adaptors to fine-tune the fan for maximum airflow or near-silent operationIncludes anti-vibration mounts, fan screws, Low-Noise Adaptor, extension cable and OmniJoin adaptor set for connecting the fan to proprietary fan headers

Found 86 comments on Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown):

u/ferhanmm · 11 pointsr/3Dprinting

It's actually one of the 8 pieces from the noctua fan. Mine fell off too.


u/similar_observation · 11 pointsr/sffpc

the smallest I know off the top of my head is the bitty-baby 40mm

u/OurJesuitPaymasters · 8 pointsr/sffpc

this is the fan


the fan comes with crimps so you can cut the existing fan in the psu and crimp all 3 cables with the noctua fan.

u/OpticalNecessity · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.

As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

  • IKEA enclosure - $115
  • LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  • MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  • Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  • Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  • Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  • New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  • 50mm blower fan - $8

    So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:

    DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.

    z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.

    Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.

  • Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  • Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  • Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  • 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  • Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  • Digital Calipers - $18

    That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
u/bedintruder · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

40mm, the onboard APUs on my mini itx HTPC's have these on the heatsink.


I actually replaced them with the 40mm Noctua fans.

u/klmx30302 · 5 pointsr/homelab

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NQLT0M/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ARS4FK5114M5WF08CRWK this is probably going to be a better all around fan. Slightly more airflow, quieter, and doesn't use a sleeve bearing.

u/WilliamFlinchbaugh · 4 pointsr/CR10

Honestly, I would just buy a new fan. It's probably not worth the trouble to fix the cheap Chinese loud fan. I bought the Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX. It works fine, super quiet, no issues. Super easy to install, just follow this video. Hope I helped.

u/MikeSD34 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I have the RS815 and the RS214, and they're really not bad. There's an option in the configuration to favor fast or cool, which varies the fan speeds to reduce noise. I had them in a cabinet (open back, definitely not sealed) in a bedroom for a while. I did eventually go so far as to replace the fans but I wouldn't strictly say it's necessary. Heavy load you're definitely going to notice it, but even at that it's still quieter than most 1U full depth servers, and I hardly noticed it under normal load, and nice and quiet idle. I was really happy when they came out with the shallow depth RS815, much easier to find a home for it.

u/crossbowman5 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I used these in my USG-PRO to great success.

u/PuterPro · 3 pointsr/CR10


Clogging - for one, upgrade the cheap ass tube they gave you! There's a thing called a Capricorn tube that is miles better, and a must have if you ever want to dabble with Flex filaments (and you will, as you get into it more, LOL). It's a really cheap upgrade.

Check it here: https://www.captubes.com/

And an interesting thing on safety: https://www.captubes.com/safety.html

Two US sources:



Clogging, cont . Also that thing about a square end, and the tube must be fully inserted flush against the nozzle or plastic can ooze out into the area and cause the clog I think you have. You'll know when you push the tube down if a blob comes with it.

Another thing - spend a few dollars on upgraded fans. They'll be quieter and move more air. Clogs often happen when heat travels up the tube and melts the plastic before it reaches the hotend, that's what the front fan is for. Replace it.

Best one out here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M

Sadly, you'll find this hobby nickel & dimes you. To get it printing well, there are a few vital upgrades Creality went cheap on.

Retraction - yeah, glad to hear it, it's always a guessing game to judge someone's knowledge and skill level!

PLA usually 195-200°C is fine, bed at 60°C, or even lower.

Sticking is almost ALWAYS a bed issue. I just wrote a comment on this for someone else, let me share this one with you.

Level bed is not FLAT bed. Everyone will tell you to level your bed, but that's useless if it's not evenly FLAT. Here's a little write up I did bit back, look for my comments:



u/Adrian_Tek · 3 pointsr/ender3

I got the Noctua 40x10mm
I have one on my Hot End already and it works great, keep the temp cool just fine.

u/priestwithknives · 3 pointsr/CR10

Check the fan blades, they tend to snap very easily, make sure one isn't wedged in there, if it is pry it out and get ready to change the fan eventually.

You can open the control box, unplug first from power etc, and see where the wire leads in from that bundle and if it's connected to the mainboard snugly.

Here's a diagram if you decide to go poking in the box.


After that if the wires are all plugged and there's still no spin and no obstruction like a stuck blade you can get this if you'd like an easy install.


It won't require a solder with that kit, just scissors and plyers, I've been using the new fan for about 2 months on my machine and no clogging issues from heat creep.

u/dawgol · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

For future reference when you have more money, I recently got one of these HBA cards this vendor and it works fine and was properly updated/flashed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-H310-6Gbps-SAS-HBA-LSI-9211-8i-P20-IT-Mode-ZFS-FreeNAS-unRAID-High-Air-Flow/162834671120

I use this for a cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018YHS8BS/

And use this for cooling the heatsink: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/

u/Mhycoal · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bwI1DbD78N5KF

Comes with a 3 to 2 pin adapter with diode to prevent reverse polarity

u/Emulsifide · 3 pointsr/homelab

The majority of 1U switches on the market come equipped with standard 40mm single or double thickness fans. Although somewhat expensive, Noctura makes a killer alternative that kicks out 4.83 CFM at 17.9dba:


At the same price though, you can get two Sythe fans with slightly lower flow (4.11 CFM) but a tad quieter as well (14 dba):


u/00firestar00 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

This may not be very DIY, but I replaced all my fans with 40mm Noctuas. They are $14 on amazon. Quieter, and way better quality.

u/MacNugget · 3 pointsr/homelab

I have a 28MP and I swapped the fans for Noctua ones which helped a lot. It was loud enough to hear through a closet door before I swapped them. I'm super-sensitive to fan noise, though. I'm sure a lot of people would be totally satisfied with the original fans.

u/Kariko83 · 3 pointsr/Reprap
  1. You could replace the fan with one of these but I have not done it so I am not sure if that will work out.
  2. Z-motor stand-offs are a common upgrade for the folger tech, see my other post for links
  3. gluing a heater PCB to glass is a bad idea as you are reducing the thermal transfer between the glass and the heating element plus PCBs can warp and glass can shatter. Instead I would ditch the glass all together and get an aluminum plate, once agian see my other post for links.
  4. I recommend using a free standing spool holder and setting it behind and to the side of the printer and running the filament through the loop on the z motor, this works pretty well for me. I currently am using a storage box with some PVC pipe, 608ZZ bearings and some 8mm threaded rod sitting on top with the lid off, it works rather well for me right now.
u/TheKingElessar · 3 pointsr/ender3

Update for everyone:

  • Watched this video on the Hero Me system.

  • Watched this video on the Hero Me system.

  • Watched this video on replacing the Ender 3 hot end fan.

  • Watched this video on replacing the Ender 3 hot end fan with this quieter option (I don't need it to be quiet, so I'm not going to do it).


  • I'll use the Hero Me system with this hot end fan guard.

  • I'll replace the filament fan (I believe that I have my fan names correct) with the dual 5015 Hero Me setup using these 5015 fans. Here's a video I found that is basically a step-by-step guide for it.

    Hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll be back with a successful picture!

    /u/hockeyhippie and /u/johnedwa if you have any input.
u/derdnik · 3 pointsr/PrintrBot

Put a fan on it... My extruder was getting 'too-hot-to-touch' after 30-45 minutes of printing so I got this fan and zip tied it to the extruder. Now after the same 30-45 minutes of printing, the extruder is 'cool-to-the-touch'!

u/drizzlelabs · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

No problem, I'm glad that it helped. These are the fans I got by the way: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/vedicveko · 2 pointsr/originalxbox

I replaced my fan with the one below. It is very quiet, fits nicely, and cools as well as the old.


u/Tunderslimer · 2 pointsr/ender3

The PSU case needs some love, too. It's like Creality shopped around for the loudest fans it could find, and that's what shipped with the Ender. Anyway, these two things make the PSU much better: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3384875 WellFan Noctua 60x25 remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967389 WellFan PSU case mod and for fun https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987473 cause, well, just cause (60mm fan guard) oh, and the fan: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQMESS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heyyyyy, you've added a buck converter and have 12v now, time to change the main board fan! It's a noisy bugger too! It ends up being the same fan as what comes on the factory hotend cooler. Annoyinggggggggggg. Like a mosquito in my ear!!! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Noctua 40x10mm fans are bolt in replacements for both of those, if you don't want to change the hotend cooler. I could have used a 40x10 on the Hero Me cooler I used - but the 40x20 looks cooler.

This is the LED strip lighting I used, it was expensive though, and I'm sure you could find much less expensive alternatives. https://www.rpelectronics.com/55-7160w-0-led-strip-outdoor-ip65-white-1m.html (white and red! z-rail and top rail!)

I printed a handle, and really like it, but it won't work without some love. Instead of modifying the 3d model I'm probably just gonna heatgun it into the shape I need it to be. Currently, it hits the Y-axis rail. It's here, if you wanna take a stab at it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3313306

The Z-axis stepper is by far the loudest - I'm going to try to see if I can make a damper work, like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07CL356J5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A28ZWXW3ZSVNZU&psc=1 ** disclaimer note: I haven't done this yet. I haven't received the dampers.

I printed a zillion links from this thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060 but didn't like the result after putting it all together. It motivated me to try and do something for cable management, though. I DID end up using a bunch of the start and end mounts, though, and cut off the link nubs. They worked super great for cable management.

I'm still not 100% happy with the cabling - I'm ordering these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074GZFYM1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A23BY812APN9IU&psc=1 and will be trimming/cutting/hiding/wrapping them so it looks nicer. Don't get me wrong, it works fine the way it is, but I don't like that flat ribbon cable stuff. It's too... ugly. It's either these cables or I'm going to build my own, which I like doing anyway. This will be soon. I don't think it'll look much different, but I think individually wrapped cables running to the stepper motors would look cooler. More space-ship-ie.

There's probably more. For this list, there's another list like it of failed/ugly/discarded parts - it took some trial and error for sure. It's worth it though. I've actually printed more stuff for my printer than I have for projects I'm working on. 3d printing is so funny that way!

If you have questions, I'm happy to help :) I have pictures of all this if you need them. I haven't figured out imgur, but will add photos to this album as time goes on: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AEXNqvTXE5ZZhnhi8.


PS. Man this is a really big post. I didn't realize I did so many things. Rabbit hole, this thing is.

u/TayG0 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

In regards to sound, the mods I have done:

  • Printed and added feet dampeners, compatible with the Z-brace mod. These made a VERY noticable difference.
  • Replaced heatblock fan with a 40mm Noctua fan.
  • Replaced control box fan with 120mm Noctua fan, using a [printed adapter.]

    The mods I plan to do:

  • Either remove the PSU fan entirely, or replace it with a noctua fan. It is the main source of noise in the control box, something I realized AFTER replacing the rear fan 🙃. People say the 120mm fan mod provides enough airflow to cool the PSU with the original fan, and top psu case, removed.
  • Install stepper motor dampers on X and Y axis motors. Lots of reports of these making a big difference.
  • Reinforce the Ikea Lack table I have it sitting on, or replace the table completely. I've realized those tables contribute significantly to wobbling of the printer, as well as reverberation of any noises it puts out.
u/AddictedToComedy · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

> I haven't found a quiet, well-performing 40mm fan

I use this 40mm Noctua on my extruder's heat sink. It is so silent that I thought it was dead the first time I turned the printer back on. I had to visually check it spinning and feel the airflow before I could believe it.

Not sure if it meets your standards for well-performing, but it's been great for me.

u/KnightontheSun · 2 pointsr/homelab

I used the NF-A4x10FLX fan.

Very quiet. The ServeTheHome thread linked above has two other types of fans used. They are fairly quiet too. I used some of those on the PSUs in the switch and then also disconnected one of the supplies as I don't need both running at once.

u/mattheww · 2 pointsr/homelab

Really, any 40mm fan will do. But here's:

u/GroceryBagHead · 2 pointsr/sffpc

50C on idle doesn't sound right. My 2200G is about 30C with stock cooler (about 1500rpm though). I would try to reapply paste.

PSU switch look like 10 minutes. And that mostly because it's hard to remove motherboard with everything attached.

  • Buy https://www.amazon.ca/40x10mm-Bearing-Premium-Cooling-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M
  • Remove PSU. 2 bolts: one at the back, one on the side from the side where 2.5" drives are.
  • Open PSU. There are a couple of pretty obvious screws. Box opens like a lid.
  • Unscrew and yank stock fan out. Connector had glue on it, so I had to scrape it off.
  • Install Noctua fan. Route its cable with the rest of cables that come out from PSU.
  • Plug Noctua into your motherboard. Use included low-noise adapter cable for best results.
u/gstacks13 · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

No problem, glad I could help!

The mount fits a 40x40x10mm fan. I'm using [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_RCdPAbVHRTZVE) Noctua fan with great results!

u/therewillbebrad · 2 pointsr/oculus

Fuck yes. You've inspired me.

I'm looking at these noctuas because they are silent and I'm thinking I'll have to go with a battery option. I don't think it will bother me that much. I'm wondering if getting a rechargable double a solution or just getting a vaporizer battery would work.


u/vietquocnguyen · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_57..BbJP6S3M5

u/SufficientEngineer · 2 pointsr/CR10

I had issues with both the circulation fans in my Control boxmaking noise so i replace all of my fans. My psu was new so it was quiet to begin with.
Here are the fans i got. The noctua are higher than your range but they are high quality.

Hotend Fan 40x10mm

Control Box Back Fan 40x20mm

Mother Board Fan 50x10mm

Might be able to find these fans cheaper on other websites but they are the right sizes.

u/BDazzle · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

That fan shroud is for a 40mm fan, the stock fan isn't 40mm. This is the fan I just ordered for that exact shroud Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yFYjzbKHXWEGP

u/rjheitman12 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I recommend replacing it with this fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0LMFAbPDG8Y0G

I replaced all my fans on my wanhao with theses way quieter and way more airflow.

u/drdoak66 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.

First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.

Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.

Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.

Type | Name | Link | Price
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax

Parts already purchased/ bought with printer

Type | Name | Link | Price
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax

Future planned upgrades

u/beachandbyte · 2 pointsr/CR10

I've spliced multiple accessories including led lighting into the 12v terminals of the cr-10x without any issue. Currently I'm printing with my bed at 65 degrees and print head at 210. I'm in the US on 120v drawing ~(2.6 after heating -3.15 amps during heating)/~220 watts. You can easily power multiple devices off the 12v terminals without any issue.

The readings above include includes:

12v Noctua Fan - https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

12v Proximity Sensor (ABL) - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-LJC18A3-B-Z-1-10mm-Capacitance-Proximity/dp/B0756XDQM4

5v Lighting - Partial strip - https://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Control-Findyouled-Backlight-Monitors/dp/B01M28RKH5

I'm using a mix between Marlin 1.1.8 and the custom firmware provided by www.th3dstudio.com. (If your considering doing ABL and your not super familiar with electronics I highly recommend th3dstudio.com It's important to support the engineers/developers that bring the amazing improvements in 3d printing to the masses)

I usually use octoprint with pi3 or pi zero but for these readings I had nothing plugged into the micro usb port.

If you have any questions or need some more information about how I do my wiring I would be happy to help!

u/memyselfandmemories · 1 pointr/CR10

I used these fans:


This soldering iron:

The screws mentioned in the video (bought them, and used the ones that came with the printer)

And I printed off these files:




u/RaNdMViLnCE · 1 pointr/CR10

Im a pro owner as well, and have also been on the improvement quest.

here a re a few Nexi youtube vids of upgrades he has done on his pro. as well i listed a few things i did to mine below.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VH3zrRNOGfA&t=186s this one is how to change the capacitive sensor to inductive.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hG8X26UtLVw this one shows ytou how to install T8 anti backlash nuts. (Great if you suffer from constant Z leveling.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lde-SSY4vtw&t=638s Quiet your printer down with high quality fan replacements i went with these https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .


https://youtu.be/DI31OItLQ9w there is also this 37 min review from NJ Tech where he goes over various upgrades and mods to his Pro, i found this video very relatable and a decent watch. though i do like Nexi's idea of voltage splitting to run the fans instead of voltage step downs. also prefer the MB cooler bracket from NJ's video over Nexi's.


in addition to this stuff above in these videos(I have done most of these mods now), for me im running the TM firmware, with an Octoprint to control it, Wham Bam build plate on the way.

also have a permanent screen SD adapter installed with a cable that runs outside the case for easier repeat flashes. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JMTW1YD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1



I would also recommend a right angle USB cable to connect to Octo as i dont care for the stock cable that hangs way off the side of the printer just dying to get knocked off or broken.. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004NO0L4O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Hope this stuff helps you out!


u/citarch · 1 pointr/mpminidelta

For the bottom Fan, i printed a modified base i found on thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3747339) and used a 120 fan with a 3pin to 2 pin adapter(included with the 40mm fan I bought), for the hot end i printed a modified fan duct also from thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3471759) to mount a 40mm noctua fan and spliced the original 30mm fan connector onto the "omnijoin connector" included in the box with the 40mm fan(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

u/digitalPhonix · 1 pointr/HomeServer

I have this guy: http://www.supermicro.com/products/system/1U/5018/SYS-5018A-FTN4.cfm

It had a soft whine which wasn't really noticeable but I replaced the case fans with 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M

Now I can't hear anything beyond ~30-40cm from the back where I put the fans and nothing from the other side.

u/TheSyntaxEra · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

So, I am here to post my solution. It was the hot end fan, 100%!! Responsible for 85% of the noise I was hearing. I replaced it with a Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ ) and almost immediately I saw a difference. Not only when printing, but even when the machine is in idle. Thank god, I was running out of ideas.


I also printed these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2557700 which I think help with some of the vibration on the bench (less ghosts in the prints as well). I will probably make these eventually, as I think they will work best: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2742599 I printed this guy also: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2318614 but haven't put it on yet. I am hoping that it helps with the remaining 15% vibration noise.


The stock fan they are using now is flawed. I can say this for sure, since I was in the lucky position to have two machine here at the same time (sending the lesser of the two back). They both had the same vibration noise issue coming from the hot end. Well, I am happy now.. since you can no longer hear the printer from every room in my house. I hope this helps someone else going through the same issue.

u/2vulgar · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I ordered this fan to upgrade the 30mm hotend fan on my MP Select Mini v2 and also printed this fan shroud to mount it to. It runs flawless and all I had to do was cut off the plug that came on the fan, cut the wires from the stock fan on the printer, and solder the new wire to the cut wires on the printer. The new fan is a 3 wire plug, and all you need are the red and black wires. The yellow one is not used, just just leave it clipped.

I forgot to mention, use heat shrink tubes on the red and black wires, to cover up the raw soldered wires.

u/Figure_1 · 1 pointr/Motors

Hi again.


I'm not sure of your location but I came up with the following:

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX @Amazon.co.uk - This is the original link called out in the blog post.

NF-A4x10 FLX @CCLOnline.com - £10.74 with an option to collect locally.

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX @ShinyHardware.co.uk - Currently out of stock but it's £13.99 with free UK delivery.


Sunon HA40101V4-000U-999 @Digikey.co.uk - Obsolete

HA40101V4-1000U-A99 (replacement for HA40101V4-000U-999) @Digikey.co.uk £3.63 If you're really looking for an inexpensive solution, this should be the original equipment replacement fan for your unit. I don't believe this fan comes with any connectors (just two stripped wires) so you'll have to buy a new connector or reuse the one off the old fan.

u/Skimballs · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

IF the old fan is still working print this now...https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2076234

And buy this...https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Much, much quieter and it works great. You probably need it to have at least PET. I had mine made in ABS before I got the printer.

u/Psyc0_T3ch · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I got 2 of these and upgraded the chassis fan and hot end fan as well (you will need an adapter printed first to accommodate the larger size, It just fits when the X axis is in the home position).
They are fairly quiet, however somewhat still noticeable during operation. I really just wanted to upgrade them. A coworker recommended Noctua fans to me so I tried those.

u/iceynyo · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Super weird, I just clipped the cables for the old fan and put the noctua fan in with the included press joints and it worked.

This is the one I ordered: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/

Is the one you got different?

u/blandreth94 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This is reddit, of course I'd be happy to answer your questions!

I sourced mine from Amazon, they're running about $13 right now free shipping with prime, which is less than the ~17 I payed in Feb. I believe I bought 4 in total, one for each stepper, and one for my PS.

I did use lawsy's design, this one to be specific.

I got my bearings from Misumi USA when they had their $150 free deal going on. They were the LMU-N8's.

In that same order I ordered new rods for the x and y axis. The PSFU8 shaft specifically, two 290mm long and two 310mm long. I would recommend getting new ones no matter what as the stock ones are pretty terrible, especially if you've been using the brass and HDPE "bearings" for a while. When I had my printer all apart, I realized that the stock rods weren't even straight and were a bit oversized.

All the upgrades I've done have made my printer 10x better than it was stock, but to get that I have invested a bit into it, probably in the range of ~$200, including fans, linear bearings, bowden conversion, sealed acrylic case, and heated basalt bed. I've created parts that rival or beat parts from much nicer printers, including a uPrint and industrial stratasys at my uni.

Feel free to reply with any more questions

u/Dbzfan5000 · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The fan is 40mm so you need an adapter.

And the adapter is here

All you have to do is snip the old fan off, remove it, connect the noctua fan to the adapter, the put the adapter where the old fan was. Then you just have to connect the wires.

u/savag1912 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I just bought this fan:

Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Its fantastic. Completely silent... A little pricey but I had it in 2 days and like I said I literally cannot hear it at all.

u/Chipp_Kiske · 1 pointr/ODroid

Well, I'm going to be using a Noctua fan (Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan Blades with AAO Frame, SSO2 Bearing (NF-A4x10 FLX) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_75GcBbXV86GKS). Do I need to worry about that with this?

u/Xials · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Btw, this fan has been a dream. I went through 3 of the warranty replacement fans, then bought this and it run super quiet and not a problem with it since June.

noctua ugly brown fan

u/mmm_dat_data · 1 pointr/homelab

nice write up! I actually just bought these and am waiting for them to arrive


Though the fans im replacing have a max CFM of like 10x what these do, I'm just gonna wing it and see if my temps are ok... if this doesnt work the box is gonna get shelved or thrown out probably.. now if i could only find a way to monitor temps in ESXi when I only have the web interface...

u/TeeJS · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Just print the shroud, and then add a 40mm fan of your choice. I'm partial to this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s7rUAb3HS4417 , as it's super quiet and powerful. You'll need re-wire the new fan in as well. I usually install a female socket right above where the wiring exits the "tower" to make future fan replacements easier.

u/TheManiteee · 1 pointr/ender3

Sure thing. I got 2 of these 40mm FLX for the hotend and electronics box. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HOlODbHSE71M2 and one 60mm FLX for the PSU. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQMESS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eRlODbEZJZ1TK last but not least I ordered this pack of 5015s for the part cooling fan. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WFKPLWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cSlODb030FK1T Make sure it's the 24v quiet versions as well as these are dual ball bearing fans as opposed to other cheaper fans. While my printer is running I cant hear any of these fans at all.

u/GottaRiskIt · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I am using this guy,

Edit: You gotta do some splicing if you want to get this fan running off the current wiring.

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ug4PDbCD3N3XF

I have been printing abs at 240c for at least a hundred hours straight, I haven't had any heat creep issues using either standard ptfe or the blue capricorn tubing.

I would also check to see if your extruder is slipping. The spring can soften over time and you could lose some of that tension between your filament gear and the smooth bearing. That was causing me some headache for a while.

u/PeteTheLich · 1 pointr/factorio

yup! i have a 40x40x10mm on my printer

ill look into how to get it working asking on the sub you mentioned and I'll keep you posted :)

u/LaughsTwice · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Thank you so much!

As for the hot end, if i just wanted to replace the 30mm fan with a Noctua 40mm fan using this, and i didn't want to splice wires, which ones of these two fans should i get? This one (5V) or this one?

u/keyboardbelle · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

That looks great. I'm not sure what sort of cooling fan mods there are for that model printer, but you could check out Thingiverse. I once had a Printrbot and I had an improved fan shroud that I 3D printed and then added a larger fan to.

I'm not sure if the stock fan is 30mm or 40mm, but if you get a 40mm fan shroud, then it'll help with air flow on print cooling.

I like Noctua fans (they are popular with PC modders and quiet) - but if you want to save $8 or so, you can get a cheaper 40mm x 20mm size 12v fan (the 20mm thick ones will be louder than 10mm):


If you mod the fan, there are some easy soldering tutorials online, and you can do something called a "lineman's splice" that makes it pretty easy. A little heatshrink or electrical tape and you can wrap up the soldered wires cleanly.

The Mini Select is a very popular printer - so mods will be constantly be made that you can 3D print and improve the printer, so check Thingiverse frequently to see what people are modding.

u/GavinTheSeal · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I know this a little late but try some noctua fans. I know they are expensive but are completely worth it. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0 You can't beat a 6 year warranty

u/Jiborkan · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

Yeah, I had been really good at getting part that are easy to work with and I missed where a 12V would be easier to work with. I ended up getting this fan:

It had a few people mention using it for their 3D printer then I forgot to check the rest lol. I'll probably pick up a new fan here soon if I can't get this one hooked up.

u/FakeNewUsername · 1 pointr/ender3

Honestly, I don't see a benefit in getting new hotend fans to replace the stock one. the only exception to this is if the old one is broken/damaged, or you want to silence your printer, in which case you would want to get a high quality noctua fan. but you need a buck converter. Teaching Tech made a step by step process on using a noctua and a buck converter, here

you can get a better part cooling fan, you can use the stock 4010 fan, new 5015 fans, or regular fans like the stock hotend fan. if you buy a 5015 fan and it blows your prints down for cools them too much, just turn down the fan speed in your slicer

u/threeclaws · 1 pointr/ender3

https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M?sa-no-redirect=1 This is what I have and it pushes out ~4cfm, half the stock fan, I didn't realize that before I bought it and it gave me a host of issues.

I just grabbed some ball bearing 24v 5015's off ebay and they are at least quieter than stock but I wouldn't call it quiet. I think TH3D is now selling a "quiet" 24v 5015 but I don't have first hand experience with it.

I forgot I also swapped the PSU for a meanwell which has a quieter fan as well.

I get the worry about the enclousre, you could sound deaden the outside instead of the inside, maybe with sound deadening mat instead of acoustic foam (this is something pc case manf. have switched to as well.)

u/Horkback · 1 pointr/CR10

E3D V6 hotend

Noctua fan for hotend cooling (I hosed the original using a heat gun to assist bed temps for ABS) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap as hell 5015 2 pack part cooling blowers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This kickass heavy duty customizable mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642 printed in PETG

I replaced my hotend with a microswiss right away and jacked up both it and the original, but learned a lesson and added plugs to everything. Hotends usually come with crimpable plugs, but they're all different so I standardized on these for fans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5AHF0Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this type (xt60) for the hotend cuz current https://www.amazon.com/Female-Connector-Housing-Silicon-Battery/dp/B073QJWVVK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517496061&sr=8-5&keywords=xt60+connectors

All of the plugs made my wiring kinda fat, so when you join the Bowden tube, the wiring, and the ezabl cord its just heavy enough to droop lower than the gantry and get rubbed back and forth during prints. I designed a chain link style support in blender that anchors at the extruder and velcro'd the bundle to it. It allows free xy movement but not z. It works really well but could prolly be optimized. 😃

My printer came with the bed heater wiring strain relief already printed and installed, definitely do so. Also, get a dial gauge. Seriously. Print a gantry mount for it and slip it on to use it when needed.

u/DaoDeer · 1 pointr/3Dprinting


($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod


($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.

Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.


Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2


Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.

The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.


Glass bed Holder

Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.


Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.


($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors

$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

u/BusterMathisJr · 1 pointr/originalxbox

I've definitely heard of Noctua and know they make good stuff, there wouldn't be any issues running an aftermarket fan like fan (like RPM or etc)?
I looked around a bit and saw one or two forum posts mentioning specs for replacing it, it looks like it is a 12V 40x10mm fan so this would be the Notcua equivalent I'm guessing


u/muffinthumper · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

What type of fan did you use? Will a Noctua 40mmX10mm fit your model?

Should I get a 5v or 12v version?

u/lauwens · 1 pointr/ender3

I got a Cooltek 4020 and noctua 4010 wired them in serie, used the cooltek for the heaterblock and noctua for the SKR board

u/MYSTICmayonaise · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I don't have any, but these would be perfect for the prank.

u/Jaegermeiste · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

I contacted PrintrBot about this and while I didn't get an answer about repairing the 13, they are shipping me a 13S. So props to PrintrBot support! The 13S construction appears to be all-metal up into the extruder block (I guess transferring heat to the extruder turned out not to be a big deal?) which means that weak spot is eliminated. They also sell parts for the 13S, unlike the 13, so I can fix things going forward if need be. It uses the same tips, so my tip collection is safe. I'll lose about 35C of heating capability (270C max on the PTFE-lined 13S vs 305C max on the all-metal 13), but if it is compensated for by reliability it will be well worth it. I don't print any exotic or filled materials, but I do print PETG and Nylon on occasion which can get up around 250C depending on the blend. As an example, as the injection-molded plastic clamps holding the linear bearings on my Play have cracked, I've replaced them with more pliable and stronger nylon replacements that I printed myself. To compensate against meltdowns I think I'll move up to a more reliable 40mm fan on the heatsink. I'll probably print the below duct in PETG, since it is more heat-resistant than PLA:


And I'll use the best 40mm fan I can find:


Still haven't figured out a lower fan solution that would work with the above on the Play, yet.

u/callmetom · 1 pointr/homelab

Oops. I did mean 40mm.

Though I wouldn't get the 40x20 fans without measuring as most of the fans in appliances like this (though, again, I don't have one to be sure) are more thin, like this:

u/balance07 · 0 pointsr/ouya

ah, good and valid point. i hadn't considered that, as i have made mine silent by changing the fan: http://amzn.com/B009NQLT0M

u/NessInOnett · 0 pointsr/homelab

As others have said, go with noctua. This one is your best bet. They're kinda pricey but your ears will thank you https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

Make sure you know if you need 12v or 5v (probably 12) .. they make both

u/r0zzy5 · 0 pointsr/3Dprinting

Noctua fans are about as silent as you're going to get: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009NQLT0M

I've got one on my CR-10 and it is very quiet. They're 12v though so I think you'd need to use something like a buck converter to use one on a 24v ender 3

u/beerholder · 0 pointsr/ender3

Given the colour it seems to be a Noctua - probably a NF-A4x10 - they are 12v though so need a voltage convertor https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M