#137 in Sports & outdoors books
Use arrows to jump to the previous/next product

Reddit mentions of One Move Too Many. How to Understand the Injuries and Overuse Syndroms of Rock Climbing

Sentiment score: 3
Reddit mentions: 8

We found 8 Reddit mentions of One Move Too Many. How to Understand the Injuries and Overuse Syndroms of Rock Climbing. Here are the top ones.

One Move Too Many. How to Understand the Injuries and Overuse Syndroms of Rock Climbing
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
or
    Features:
  • Covers everything from the basics of equipment, knots, rappelling techniques, and leave-no-trace principles to the more advanced skills of setting up complex anchors, evaluating avalanche terrain, and developing your leadership skills. Completely revised and updated to include the latest in gear and techniques. Written by a team of more than 40 expert climbers and climbing instructors.
  • Features hundreds of technical illustrations. Includes extensive revisions to self-rescue, aid climbing, waterfall and ice climbing. Significant new chapter on physical conditioning.
  • All-time bestselling climbing instructional book. Printed on 100% recycled paper. 8th edition, 2010.
Specs:
Weight0.85 Pounds

idea-bulb Interested in what Redditors like? Check out our Shuffle feature

Shuffle: random products popular on Reddit

Found 8 comments on One Move Too Many. How to Understand the Injuries and Overuse Syndroms of Rock Climbing:

u/soupyhands · 10 pointsr/climbing

You shouldnt climb every day. Your body needs time to recover.

Climbing everyday is how people develop repetitive strain injuries.

Source: One Move Too Many

u/dr_g89 · 4 pointsr/GripTraining

Check out One Move Too Many. It is aimed at climbers but there is a lot of really useful information for treating issues with the muscles responsible for grip.

u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/climbing

> How do you identify imbalance? Is there some magic ratio of pull-ups to push-ups you should be able to do, etc.? Do you see a sports physician? What are the common imbalances climbing causes?

Magic ratio! If only. It's more about doing pushups than how many you can do. The best plan is the one you follow through. Seeing a sports therapist would be great. I've made some good gains in my stability, mobility and overall body tension threshold since I started seeing one once a week. It's not cheap.

Common imbalances:

  • Forearms are overdeveloped on one side, causing problems with wrists and elbows. Correct with pushups, reverse wrist curls, pronators, the four forearm stretches, elbow stretches.
  • Back and back of neck are overdeveloped. Weakness and tightness of the front of the neck, chest. Often presents as neck pain right where your shoulder meets your neck; you might also get extremely tight knots under your shoulder blade.
  • Spinal extensors are overdeveloped, hip flexors are too tight, glutes and lower abdominals (transverse especially) underdeveloped. This especially applies if you sit at a desk a lot in conjunction with climbing. It's the bane of my entire climbing career. It's taken the better part of a year just to start healing from this imbalance.
  • Your ankles will spend most of their time flexed one way and not the other. Combined with the stress of falling on pads, whipping into the rock and walking around on padded gym floors (much worse for your knees and ankles than you might think) this can be a trouble area for a lot of people.

    > How do you correct these imbalances? For any answers to the above, what exercises are best to target the weak muscles.

    Every day:

  • The four shoulder band exercises (pull ins, pull outs, scaption & rows.)
  • Reverse wrist curls, pronators.
  • Stretch your forearms, elbows, pectorals, lats, QLs, hip flexors daily. There may be other problem areas for you - add them to the list.

    Climbing days:

  • Light antagonist exercises: pushups integrated into your warmup. Roman chairs or other exercises where you're creating outward core tension instead of inward tension.

    Rest days from climbing:

  • Therapy work on any problem areas - these will vary person to person, but I do a lot of core work, hip stability & ROM.
  • Active release - either see a therapist, or buy the book. Either way, get a lacrosse ball and foam roller and get to work.
  • Cross train - something with a lot of pushing and tension, but just as varied and physiologically complex as climbing. Many choose yoga or pilates. If you have a bit more bandwidth for training volume, BJJ or other martial arts is good. I lift weights also, but I wouldn't suggest it for most climbers.

    > What resources are out there that can answer these questions? Any literature on the subject?

    Tremendous amounts. Start with google. Don't be climbing specific - search by muscle groups. Know that just because you read something, doesn't mean it's something you have. So many people I've talked to just google their problem and run with the first thing they find. Because you're asking this question before you're injured, you have a huge leg up: you're not looking for a quick fix, you're looking to accumulate knowledge. There's plenty of it out there.

  • exrx.net - Useful kinesiology directory; the common postural deficiencies section and some of the other articles are also useful. Good repository of stretches and exercises for specific muscle groups.
  • http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/ - dude's a boss. Funny too. (You're looking for the "Resources" section.)
  • I can't even tell you how many times people in this sub reddit have thanked me for suggesting this book. It's the definitive guide for the topic. Nothing else even comes close. Unfortunately, it can be expensive and/or hard to find.
  • This subreddit.
  • Your doctor / medical professional. If you go looking for a sports therapist, I strongly suggest you find one who is a climber, not just works with climbers. If you can't, look for one with a gymnastic background, or at least someone who treats upper body athletes. Many sports therapists don't understand climbing very well, because it's so physiologically complex. Nothing else really comes close to the stresses this sport puts on our bodies. I once had a (licensed) ST tell me climbing was mostly an endurance sport, "like running a marathon." Find someone you trust with your well being.
u/sk07ch · 2 pointsr/climbing

I would only go for weight reduction to start training one handed.
Use a harness slings and weights so you can add weight on the bigger holds till you are ready for the tinier!
Great side effect, you increase maximum power by adding weight instead of reducing! And it's safer according to the national climbing-doc of germany (Jan Hojer, Jule Wurm etc.)!

EDIT: sorry not the best reference here is the better one

u/dorvak85 · 2 pointsr/climbing

What grade do you climb or did you climb before your surgery and what grade or exercise causes your elbow to hurt? Do they really hurt or just feel sore? Will they hurt during the training or only afterwards?

Besides that: Do not try to "tape them to your bones", i.e. apply strong forces on the tendons by taping them as hard as you can. The effect of taping (pulleys might be another case) is caused by increasing the blood flow, the flow of the lymphs etc. in the taped region (the load on your ellbow tendon would be way to high to reduce it via an external tape without blocking the blood circulation completely). See this excellent book by Volker Schöffl, most likely the leading expert in the field of climbing injuries.

u/ManofWax · 1 pointr/climbing

I would read it if it didn't costs 400 fucking euros

u/t0asti · 0 pointsr/climbing

The pain sounds a bit like an inflammation of a tendon sheath (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tenosynovitis) which I had once, though the popping noise is rather worrying. It hints to a rupture like others said already. The pain should also radiate to the injured finger and the to your forearm.

Go see a doc again and get an ultrasonic done, xray wont show anything if the soft parts of your hands are injured. A rupture should be clearly visible I think.

If you can't find a doc that can help you I can recommend this book: http://www.amazon.com/Understand-Injuries-Overuse-Syndroms-Climbing/dp/3928026208/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416647554&sr=8-1&keywords=one+move+too+many

The author is working in the Frankenjura and is specialized on climbers injuries, it's a really good book to diagnose any of those. A new version of it was published in German earlier this year, I dont know how fast the translation process is but if you can find a more recent one than 2003 then get that one I guess.