#131 in Industrial & Scientific
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Reddit mentions of Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil

Sentiment score: 6
Reddit mentions: 12

We found 12 Reddit mentions of Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil. Here are the top ones.

Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil
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    Features:
  • Compatible with: C230B/ TJT30A120V2P/17325/PC230A/H230A/90-244
  • In accordance with U. L. bulletin no. 508 “industrial control equipment”
  • Contactors meet specifications for devices up to 600 VAC
  • Coils have class b insulation. Resistive Amps : 40
  • Includes lug, spade terminals, and covers
Specs:
ColorOriginal Version
Height2.2 Inches
Length3.4 Inches
Number of items1
Weight0.1 Pounds
Width2.8 Inches

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Found 12 comments on Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil:

u/FuzzeWuzze · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

I threw something together that i think would work for your circuit
Honestly though i wouldnt do what your doing and run amperage through a keyswitch, for one its not really safe and two depending on what fridge you use + powering a RPI you could easily surpass the typical 10A the switches have when the compressor comes on and spikes. You may be able to get away with it though, but im a fan of using contactor relays to prevent this. It will add another $10 to the build but its a mechanical relay that can control your hot line via a key switch, and only put a few milliamps through the switch at any given time, this switch would control the 5V power supply which would power the RPI, basically identical to how an electric brew panel would work.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2798684/BrewPiCustom.png

Obviously others should chime in if theres something glaringly wrong...i just threw it together in 5 minutes.

This is the power supply i bought to power my RPI in my electric brew panel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LT2PGY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Cut a micro usb cable, wire to the power supply and plug into the RPI's usb port...easy.

This contactor is way overkill, im sure theres better/cheaper solutions im just posting what i know would work since its what ive used...others probably can chime in on this
http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31caQKUqB6L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0RJ3XDZRY4G14DRRN5K0

u/naturalorange · 3 pointsr/DIY

The Wemo Switch can be wired to directly control the relay/contactor which should be more than enough.

You would just need to grab an enclosure and whatever plugs/outlets and a few bits of spare wire.

There are cheaper WiFi switches but I personally like the Wemo switches, you can set rules (like Auto-Off) or schedules and it works with IFTT for more advance stuff.

WeMo Light Switch, Wi-Fi enabled, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DGEGJ02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8JkBybZJS8X0H

Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1IkBybGQNQV6G

u/BCosteloe · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Here's one that would work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KGSJ74

See my other post for more detailed instructions.

u/TheKillingVoid · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

One of these - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=twister_B07C1X6SHD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

​

It uses 120vac to throw the coil for the main load. From the comments, only a tiny fraction is necessary.

"The Actual, Factual, and measured Coil current at 110VAC is .04 amps or about 4 watts.The Coil does not draw .5 amps or 55 watts."

​

Given that Sonoff had issues in 2017 about insufficient solder on the POW power lines, I'm glad I sent mine back.

https://esp8266hints.wordpress.com/2017/03/01/itead-recall/

​

I think there's other Tasmota compatible relays. I'll see if I can dig it up.

​

u/coogie · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Nothing directly. You'd need to set up a 2 pole contactor with a 120 volt coil and connect your conventional 120 volt smart switch to that. Since you already didn't know such a thing existed, I highly recommend you call an electrician to install and wire the panel.

u/Oshham · 1 pointr/arduino

I tried my first project controlling a high power and current fan and it went great, until it didn't.

Basically I hooked up an Arduino Nano to control a 5v relay that controls a high power relay/contactor. The contactor controlled a 120VAC 15A fan, and turned it on or off when a window was open or closed. It worked perfectly and I called it a night.

Next morning I found that the magnetic sensor fell off the window (sending the "Turn the fan on" signal) and the fan was on as expected. But when the sensor was reinstalled the fan remained on when it shouldnt have. Even resetting the arduino did not interrupt the current to the fan.

This lead me to believe that the 5v relay has failed in the ON position, because this is the only way the contactor and fan would still have power.

Can anyone suggest a more reliable 5v input relay that can provide power to the electromagnet inside the contactor? I've looked at SSRs as being more reliable, and https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/ixys-integrated-circuits-division/CPC1706Y/CPC1706Y-ND/3077519 is one that I think is appropriate, any other suggestions?

5v relay
(https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073HX1DK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Contactor
(https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001KGSJ74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

u/rezinyou · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I use this one from amazon. It has a 120v coil so it is easier to control. I use a contactor the pool pump and one for the pool cleaner pump controlled with a dual relay z wave micro switch. But any z wave switch that you can mount will work. Many pool pump panels have a place for a switch to mount. Mine is inside the panel and works great.

u/thomashp · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If you are having trouble with z-wave signal maybe wifi would be better. Hook up a sonoff to a contactor. You could do it for less than $20.

https://imgur.com/a/q00X4SF

https://www.itead.cc/smart-home/sonoff-wifi-wireless-switch.html

https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Voltage/dp/B001KGSJ74

u/Some1-Somewhere · 1 pointr/electricians

You want one of these (or something similar).

The coil connections go to the switched power coming from your smart switch - one to the phase, one to neutral.

Each phase wire (I think US colours are normally red and black, don't touch the earth) should go through the contacts.

Edited to remove BBCode...

u/TurnbullFL · 1 pointr/electrical

That timer switch is not large enough to be capable of running that pump. It will fail quickly and void the warranty.

A contactor is your solution.

u/mafco · 1 pointr/smarthome

Sure. Here's the contactor:

https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Voltage/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=sr_1_2?crid=OIUJ07IZNPPX&keywords=30+amp+contactor+120v+coil&qid=1550624331&s=gateway&sprefix=30+amp+contact%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-2

And here's the box I used:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-Amp-240-Volt-Non-Fuse-Metallic-AC-Disconnect-TFN60RCP/100674085

It's an AC disconnect box but I just removed the disconnect switch and drilled a couple of holes to mount the relay. The ground bar is useful. Use 10awg romex for wiring it. I also used an inexpensive ($12) internet connected smart light switch that's compatible with google home and alexa to actuate the relay coil. Total cost around $30.

u/nickolove11xk · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Nice to hear. what do you think is going bad in the relays? Some of the lighting is actually on some heavy duty relays. The relays that power the 120 are actually powered by 120 themselves, Something like this Those relays obviously would last a lifetime for a small load around 15 amps. Pretty cheep solution with a little more work to have a z-wave relay control another relay but if It makes it last longer lol.

Edit: whats your set up like? What components are you using?