Reddit mentions of Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3.35 oz. Tube

I am a recent convert with a 9" SBR and 762 SDN6, I'll throw my hat in for super versatile esp if you are going to get a can like you said you are planning to.

Suppressed subsonic is much lighter recoiling than 223, you're talking about muzzle energy equivalent to 45 acp and the suppressor acts a as super quiet, very efficient muzzle break. My only complaint would be gas in the face via charging handle however I just spent 6$ on Black Silicone RTVand made a homemade gasbuster charging handle. I've yet to take it the range since but it should cut back on or eliminate gas blowback to the face.

300 Blk can be hard to come by locally but is readily available on the internet and once you have brass is easily reloadable.

No kidding? Man, that's a nice surprise.

Sorry, I thought you were saying "seal the crank pulse generator part with hondabond" not the entire cover lol.
Any guess as to how much i will need? Like will the 1.9fl oz be enough or should I get this off brand liquid gasket or are they basically the same thing?

Will I need a razorblade to remove the existing seal?

Sorry for the barrage of questions but thank you so much for the help already.

The Yelloblade

Do you know the yelloblade? (All Shrek jokes aside).

This is the gasket maker. You do not need 3.5oz of gasket maker unless you're doing deliding projects left and right - or meant to use it for what it was actually meant for.

Agree. Some purists will say to only get the gasket from Mazda. But considering the low price and effort of replacing the valve cover gasket, a Fel-Pro from Amazon should be just fine. You also need some silicone gasket goop for six potential leak spots. One tube should last practically forever.

It is and easy job, but you must be careful to not over tighten the bolts into your aluminum head. Torque to 43 - 78 inch-lbs. Also, tightening the bolts in the order recommended by Mazda will help avoid leaks. Use this guide: http://www.miata.net/garage/valvecover/

SFD is awesome, especially because you can put silicone dabs on either side in the same spot and you've got yourself a SFD filter with an SSIP.

I have plenty of improvised jars (salsa cans, regular mouth pint jars, pasta sauce jars, honey jars, pickle jars etc...) that I have used these tyvek + silicone SSIP lids on and my only advice is to get the gasket silicone as compared to cheap store brand silicone because it takes the beating from repeated injection and repeated sterilizing much better in my opinion.

Alternatively, bags are fun to use. There are spawn bags and grow bags, and again I'll add a SSIP (...and let it cure! The silicone needs to cure first or you'll make a mess.) before sterilizing the bag and inoculating.

I've tried plastic lids, but for some reason they warped and/or contaminated consistently. I didn't like having to use the rubber gasket either, I suppose in retrospect I should have just siliconed the gasket into place. Perhaps it was the particular ones I purchased, but I didn't care for them much myself.

For re-lidding? I used this.

Any 7700k delid tool should be good, rockit 88 is fairly common. This is a great thread if you need info/want to ask questions on delidding The process goes as such:

1. After delidding you'll want to clean off the thermal paste from the die, and all the black silicone around the PCB (the silicone is the main reason for thermal issues... its too thick)
   
   
2. Buy some liquid metal which is fairly cheap. Coolaboratory liquid ultra, thermalgrizzly conductonaut are two of the common liquid metals used
   
   
3. Applying the liquid metal is kind of tricky because you need so little. There should be NO pooling of the LM at all on the die - you do not want it to squeeze out and leak. I cant emphasize this enough - you hardly need ANY... just an extremely thin sheet covering the die. It has also been reported on overclock forums that applying liquid metal to not only the die, but to the underside of the IHS itself can be beneficial thermally. In order to do this, use masking tape to cover everything but the area that the die would contact... then put a tiny amount of LM and rub it in as much as you can, then remove the masking tape!
   
   
4. I'd recommending relidding (rockit has a relidding tool that you can buy separately I believe, in order to line the IHS up perfectly). To relid simply buy some of your own silicone and apply a dot in each corner, keep it minimal... just enough to hold the IHS in place.
   
   
5. After relidding, you're gonna also need thermal paste to go between the IHS and your cooler. Thermalgrizzly's Kryonaut is the best. The quality of your thermal paste honestly doesn't make much of a difference though.

When you did the DIY gas buster CH did you use the red silicone? I want it to be black but I'm unsure if this is the same stuff or not:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I'm not sure, but I suppose I could tint it black later if I got the red...the black one has a slightly different name and I want to make sure it's the right/same stuff.

I'm about to check out walmart to see if they might have it for cheaper but I haven't been able to make it out yet.

Here's all my PC parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/thareaper/saved/#view=BCKsYJ

As for the silicone I went with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried to put as little silicone on as I could around the edge so it wouldn't smudge everywhere. It worked pretty well. Hopefully you'll get results like I did!

I've been looking at the Rockit 88 for several weeks, and every time I check the website it is out of stock. How long did you have the check for stock before you were able to place an order?\

EDIT: They are back in stock!!! I checked two hours ago and there was still a message about a backorder, but they are now in stock!!

Edit2: Links for those interested:

• Rockit 88 de-lidding tool for Haswell, Ivy Bridge, Devil's Canyon, Skylake, and Kaby Lake
  
• Rockit 88 Re-lid tool for 1150/1151 sockets. This is not required but for 8 bucks I feel it's worth it.
  
• Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra to use between the dye and the IHS.
  
• High Temp Silicon for those who want to re-stick their IHS to the PCB. Use a very small amount to allow you to de-lid again if needed and the less you use the closer the IHS will be to the CPU dye.
  
• Whatever Thermal Paste you prefer. It is recommended (but not required) to cover the four gold pins on the PCB that are covered by the IHS with either thermal paste or Silicon. This will avoid shorts if the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra "leaks" off of the dye onto the PCB, it is liquid after all. I use thermal Paste for this as it is easier to remove if needed.

black rtv like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453094641&sr=8-1&keywords=rtv+silicone)?

Here’s the link of the glue:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541959052&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=permatex+gasket+maker&dpPl=1&dpID=51L1E4q5CaL&ref=plSrch

I’ve only tried delidding with the BoArt one, and I’d say the tool has high quality and definitely easy to use for anyone. The rockit88 also comes with the relid tool, but not necessary imo, since I simply applied 4 drops of the glue on each corner of the IHS and put the whole cpu unit back to motherhood, as the retention is strong enough to keep the IHS and PCB together. Lastly, the PRICE! The BoArt one costs only $12.99 compared with $45.99 for rockit88, so its ur choice! :)

Super glue is far too brittle to work with a silicone like the loop is made of. A better option would be a silicone adhesive like this: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U .

The problem is that as the loop stretches the super glue would not stretch with it, causing stress and cracking in the cured super glue layer.

A little bit of RTV will seal that back up. While this is a temporary fix, I had ridden a Ninja 500 with a torn diaphragm using this fix for thousands of miles without noticing. YMMV

I'm in the same boat. I dug around on the Overclocking subreddit and the overwhelming majority say to not re-seal. You might get better temps w/o sealant since the IHS and die will sit closer. If you plan on re-selling the CPU eventually you will need to use sealant.

I think I will use a few small drops of Permatex silicone just to make the CPU easier to install in the mobo. I don't want to deal with the IHS sliding around.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U