Reddit mentions of PWM Dimming Controller For LED Lights or Ribbon, 12 Volt 8 Amp, 3301

Yeah I got the warm white versions cause I wanted them less blue looking.

For dimmer this is what I got: http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Dimming-Controller-LED-Lights/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518684&sr=1-1&keywords=led+dimmer

You're also going to need a power supply. I got this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Power-Suppply-Driver-Transformer/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

However, I wired all my wires by hand. They do have jacks on them though as well.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Inline-Dimmer-LED-Strips/dp/B004T9ITQ0/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518743&sr=1-4&keywords=led+dimmer

And then you can use a generic laptop type power adapter as long as the wattage is correct. I plan on revamping my setup at some point to make it easier to setup.

Connecting to the 12v in the control box is very easy. I would do that, and possibly wire in one of these: http://amzn.com/B003L4KKF2

Ah! But they do! Beautifully! This is the one I use.

I made some battery powered video lights with the same type of LED ribbon. Have two different LED color temps on each light, both temps are set on separate dimmers. Lots of control.

No, just a few simple parts.

Tape

Power Supply

Connectors (Technically optional, you can solder the cut ends of the tape. But this is much easier.

Magnetic Switch

Dimmer (Optional)

You'll also need basic wire nuts and spare wire.

I had 3/4" thick shelves with 1 1/4" MDF trim fronstpieces. Then I cut a small 45-degree piece to fit hidden behind the front trim. The tape then goes on that 45-degree piece so it's pointing down and back. I hope that makes sense.

I guess you could call it DIY, but it was pretty easy. I bought the components from Amazon:

• 5 meter strip of "warm" led lights
  
• 120 to 12V 30 Watt power supply/transformer
  
• PWM Dimmer
  
  The transformer plugs into the wall and then into the dimmer (I extended the wires using 12v wire I had on hand and butt contectors) then 2 wires out of the dimmer into the strip of lights. The light strip comes with a standard looking DC connector, which I removed and just hard wired it. I also used the entire strip, but it can be cut every two inches at certain points. If you choose to cut the strip, you will need to solder the wires onto the strip. Since I used the entire strip I just used the included wire (after removing the DC connector thing)

A misunderstanding. I thought you were asking how I could do that for hours.

I actually bought this one. But it would be fairly simple to build your own with stuff from radio shack. Here is an example of one that looks fairly straightforward and has a BOM.

Edit: The link shows a PWM controller and the one I bought is a pot. Either one works, but the PWM is more efficient.

They are dimmable so if you found them too bright you could just add a dimmer:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Q8V8DM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Lights-Dimming-Controller-Ribbon/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421716999&sr=1-3&keywords=ledwholesalers+dimmer

I found this tutorial to be really helpful

https://www.blackwaterskies.co.uk/2013/05/making-your-own-nichrome-dew-heater-bands/

And if you don't know your electrical engineering formulas, this is a god send:

http://www.sengpielaudio.com/FormulaWheelElectronics.gif

For a PWM controller to regulate the heat, something like this would be good:

https://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-LEDwholesalers-Lights-Dimming-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1549856638&sr=8-7&keywords=pwm+controller+12v

That can handle up to 8 amps, which should be sufficient for a dew heater.

A good place to buy various electrical components (in the US) is https://www.digikey.com/ (you'll find components like that PWM controller and others on it as well). Can be a bit hard to navigate, but has a very powerful search feature.

If you can insulate the dew heater strip, it will let you use less power since the heat is used more efficiently.

So what am I missing here?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JE0EKWQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1414606409&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70#productDescription_secondary_view_pageState_1414606587360

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LHEOE0A/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2VVYH6SU1OYRB#

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L4KKF2/ref=pd_aw_sims_7?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1

Will this dimmerwork?

Use this stuff.

You can cut it every 4 inches and use wires to reconnect them again.
So you drill 1/4" in. holes to feed wire through, and run it to wherever you hide the power box. I stuck mine in the cabinet above the microwave.

I made a little switch enclosure box that sits flush with the bottom lip of the cabinet.

I used one of their fader units so that I could dim the lights.

Nice job, looks great!

I made one too, but I used one of these to modulate the speed.

the pulse width modulation dimmer is a lot easier on the fan motor and uses less power (and it's dirt cheap). You can rip the insides out of the box, it's a pretty small board inside.

Also, old hard drive magnets are great for stir plates.

You can use a simple on/off switch like this:
www.amazon.com/HitLights-Light-Inline-Toggle-Switch/dp/B006U5JWQW
(advantage - barrel plugs to make it easy, but you can also splice/solder).

I knew it would be bright, so i put mine on a small rotary dimmer like this:
www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-LED-Strip-Lights-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2
BUT - i never dim it. It's hard to have too much light. Just make sure that all of the LEDs are basically pointing away from you under the press. They can be too bright if pointed at your eyes when checking your case fill.

To give an example of what I would personally use.

LEDs (I would purchase 2 reels (10m total)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ST2I9O/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1#productDetails

Dimmer (2 of these, 1 per reel)
http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-LED-Strip-Lights-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=pd_sim_hi_bsb_12?ie=UTF8&refRID=024VHCH0KYFFJDQAM9QV

powered by this (only need the 1 but you can buy 2 if you'd prefer)
http://www.amazon.com/MEANWELL-HitLights-Listed-Adapter-Warranty/dp/B008K4UKLW/ref=sr_1_51?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1397563708&sr=1-51

Mount as much of the strip(s) as possible on U-channel or similar to minimize heat issues (the U channel will act as heat sink with a bit of "work") sideways outside of the square/rectangle lightbox. This will minimize the 0 0 0 0 0 0 lighting effect.

If you can build the desk enough to test you can see if 1 row around the perimeter will work, or 2 or 4... You can use the dimmer(s) to adjust the brightness as needed.

If you still need/want MORE lighting or want to have a separate smaller section that is always on at 100%, you can put some strips in rows across the "bottom" of the lightbox facing directly up.

I pretty much did this on my magnifier lamp. I have about ~.3 meter of the above linked LEDs running constantly at 100% for basic task lighting and a "night light" and ~2-3meter inside periphery of the reflector. I also used some to replace a picture lamp (it needs to be dropped by 50% though, it is too bright) and I am working on figuring out 2 more "ideas" now.

Rough math is rough but I figure it is approximately a 10% and 100% split. I am not using a dimmer on my setup though so I just try to not stare at the light for too long.

Thank you! Do you think this one would work? https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-LED-Strip-Lights-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468859307&sr=8-2&keywords=PWM+Dim+12v

btw here is my project: http://imgur.com/a/zgZzh