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Reddit mentions of Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module

Sentiment score: 16
Reddit mentions: 39

We found 39 Reddit mentions of Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module. Here are the top ones.

Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module
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High output power 110VAC to 220VACRemote ON/OFF control via the Z-Wave controllersOne-push manual ON/OFF control with the front panel push buttonSupport External ON/OFF key connects to the moduleScrew terminals for wires connection - Flexible mounting structure. Mount inside gang box or any place.
Specs:
Height5.25 Inches
Length1.5 Inches
Weight0.2 Pounds
Width1.75 Inches

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Found 39 comments on Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module:

u/jam905 · 6 pointsr/homeautomation

You need a dry-contact z-wave switch like one of these:

u/geekofweek · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

I have one setup, really hasn't been a problem. The Fireplace is fairly new and has it's own built in safety measures. Worst case scenario you end up with a situation similar to you turning it on via the wall switch and leaving without turning it off, aka you forgot. A properly functioning gas fireplace shouldn't be an inherent safety risk on its own. I've never had it accidentally turn itself on and I monitor what devices are on when nobody is home in the house. Would be trivial to configure a notification to be sent to your phone whenever it is on and you are not home.



I used this Zwave dry contact switch but it doesn't look like it's available anymore. It is hidden underneath the fireplace, but you could get one that replaces the switch in the wall.



I don't really automate anything with it except triggering it to turn off when we leave or turn off with a Bedtime switch. I've been kicking around the idea of a timer, so only letting it run for say 2 hours before shutting itself off. You can check out the whole setup here

u/xcesmess · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

That particular box is a low/high voltage box. The left side is open for low voltage wiring and the right side is for high voltage wiring (hence why it is enclosed. Mr_Norwall is correct... it is probably just a control line for an ignition system in the fireplace 'controller'. The green would be the ground (so it doesn't float) and the red/white would be the line to start the fireplace.


Another solution you might want to check out is an in-wall module or a dry-contact relay. Such examples are:

https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-1&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW097-Contact/dp/B0155HSUUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-2&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-4&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact


Some dry contact modules will still require 120v to be added though. The Aeon Labs, for instance, just runs on a coin cell I think.

edit: adding product links

u/Infernal7 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

It probably depends on the model of your gas fireplace but for mine it was fairly easy. I used a Remotec Z-Wave Dry Contact Fixture Module. It's showing unavailable on Amazon right now so not sure where else you could get it. You will also need a generic Lamp Cord to power the dry contact. I didn't do anything to the wall switch.

Basically, the wall switch has 2 low voltage wires coming from it and going under the fireplace. You cut these wires under the fireplace and you connect them to the dry contact. Essentially you now have 2 coming in from the switch and 2 going out to the fireplace. Then you connect the lamp cord to power portion of the dry contact and then plug it into the outlet under the fireplace (Not sure how you would do this without an outlet under there so I'd check for that first). That's it! The wall switch still works like normal and now you can control it like any other Z-Wave switch through an app or with voice. I'm not aware of anything similar that works over Wifi instead if you don't have a hub.

As for safety, it's probably safer now that I can track and disable it remotely. You can also set up automations to turn it off or notify you if left on for too long. You aren't touching any gas lines and the wires you are touching are all low voltage, I don't see why people consider this dangerous.

u/bacon_429 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I just added a generic Z-Wave relay in parallel with the original wired button.

u/SurfNC02 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

You have a lot of options. Easiest would probably go with a hub like a Samsung SmartThings hub and get zwave door/window sensors.
For the garage door you could use the GoControl outfit kit https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU

The fireplace gets a bit tricky depending on how the control is. Most newer homes with gas logs are on a milivolt system, meaning the switch on the wall that opens the gas valve doesnt actually have power, its just a signal wire. For this case you need to get power to that switch location which could be as easy as tapping into the lines of an adjacent switch. You need a Zwave dry contact swtich. https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI

u/rockNme2349 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Often the fireplace controllers use a low voltage input to turn on the fireplace. You need a meter if you want to know what these wires are. My guess is that one of those wires is 12/24V DC from the controller, and the switch closes the circuit. Green is just ground.

Zwave switches require 120V AC, and send that to the load. I have no idea if code allows this, but if you want a ZWave switch you'd need to borrow AC power from the adjacent box, and use a relay switch similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI

EDIT: Actually, looking at the reviews, the best solution would be to use this relay in the fireplace enclosure, and connect it to the current switch: https://www.amazon.com/review/R2100DM2EPKO7Q/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00913ATFI&channel=detail-glance&nodeID=228013&store=hi

u/co20544 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I used this https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_7 because I had it laying around, and it fit nicely (since I was replacing a simple one gang wall switch).

If I was doing it again today from scratch? Well, I went poking around Amazon, and was depressed that I didn't see anything cheaper or demonstrably better. One useful feature of the module I used is that there's a button on the front that will activate the relay if you don't/can't activate it through home automation

u/myvcrisbroken · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I did this exact thing with the Remotec Z-Wave relay.

u/ragingcomputer · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I suspect that's part of it, and it's definitely worth it to me. The signal input is very flexible. I suspect the other part is Z-wave is a proprietary protocol and requires license. Finally, it's not exactly a high-volume device.

I think the mimolite is way more polished than other options. I wish their marketing would have more examples highlighting the possibilities. It can trigger on power loss, it can trigger when voltage is within a certain configurable range, or outside of a certain configurable range, it can use the signal to toggle the relay locally, it can use the signal to control other devices, it can be polled for signal or report on a configurable timed basis.

I have 2 of these, one for my garage door ( http://imgur.com/a/db2tQ ) and one for my doorbell ( http://imgur.com/a/fzUE3 )

Sure, this could have also done this with an AVR and an esp8266 for some awesome franken-MQTT device, but until I can set up a bench, this is much easier and faster to set up... and much easier to recommend.

If you just need a z-wave dry contact relay, there are other less pricey options. These would be great for something like low voltage zoned lighting, a fireplace, or electronic shut-off valve.

http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22

http://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/

An important feature these options lack is a mode for momentary contact, which is handy when interfacing with buttons like a garage door, electric latch, or gate controller.

u/JCMonkeyballs · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Here is the guide I used to do this last fall:
http://thedataist.com/off-topic-how-to-automate-your-gas-fireplace/

Here is a link to the relay you will need:
Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NFlDzbMX9NS25

Good luck!

u/Knoxie_89 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Use a dry contact switch instead, they have ones that fit induce a regular switch box.

https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI

If you look in the reviews it fits inside a paddle switch cover well.

u/homeautomazing · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

As others said, most likely you'd add a z-wave dry contact switch like this one if you have a z-wave hub. That's the best solution I know of and you'd be just side-stepping the current RF function. There's good info in the reviews there about how to actually do this as well.

u/denthar · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

I think you would have to use a dry contact switch. Like this


But I’m not 100%

u/DragonMoose · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I did this with z-wave using this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It does require power, but I had access to 120V under the fireplace.

u/mcsoup88 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Here is the amazon link from the other comment https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/. Note though that it doesn't fit most standard decora panels so you would probably have to trim it.

u/danTHAman152000 · 1 pointr/homebridge

My gas fireplace had a switch on the wall, so I thought a smart switch would accomplish my goal to add the ability to use Siri to control the fireplace. Realized the switch was a low powered one, not a normal light switch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This wired between the switch allowed me to connect to the aeotec z wave hub and works great.

u/NCSeb · 1 pointr/SmartThings

I think that might be the same dry switch, but I used this one here. Pretty easy to setup and has been working for a couple of years now

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00913ATFI/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have it integrated with smartthings and Google home.

u/cbhower · 1 pointr/homeautomation

On the high side of your $, but dry contact:

Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z0j6Ab8189S79

u/dhlabs · 1 pointr/homeautomation

assuming it's a desktop, you can wire a normally open, SPST DC relay to the pc's power switch terminals. power the relay by a wall wart connected to a zwave module. from the vera issue a command to turn on the zwave module and then back off after a second or 2. the relay will close during that time, shorting the terminals of the power button together simulating a button press. or you can just buy one of these modules and wire its outputs across the power switch terminals and issue the same on/off commands mentioned from the vera. you could also use this method to turn off your pc too, depending on what you have your power button mapped to in windows (sleep, shutdown, hibernate, etc)

u/JPInMontana · 1 pointr/homeautomation

This is what I used for the same situation... it works great. I use it via Z-Wave with SmartThings.

https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI

u/Jarvicious · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Depending on how your fireplace is ignited (i.e.-manually with a valve, match/lighter, etc) you might get away with one of these. When we had our house rewired (full gut job) I had them wire both fireplaces so that I could simply flip a switch: insta-flame. This would replace the switch but also add zwave compatibility so that anytime your fireplace is turned on, you could also set a scene to turn on the blower.

I've also seen zwave relays which you can modulate between momentary and latching so ostensibly you could control both the fireplace and blower motor with one relay. You would simply need a separate 110/220 relay to operate the blower but that would simply be an on/off situation i.e.- when the fireplace is on, the blower is on. If you went with a switch with whatever automation standard you could include a temperature gauge of some sort to turn on the blower when the room reaches a certain temperature.

u/jocosian · 1 pointr/smarthome

I’ve been looking into the same thing. There is one Z-Wave Dry Switch I’ve seen, and you’ll likely need a millivolt fireplace pilot system to do the actual ignition/deignition. Then you replace the manual switch on the pilot with the Z-Wave one.

I haven’t tried this myself yet, but I believe those are the pieces needed.

u/superflypmp · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I've read that in so many reviews. Ideally, I'd like to set it up exactly as you describe, but instead of training my dogs to utilized said button, I'd like to control it via zwave. Did you have to hack it to hardwire buttons into it, or does it provide contacts for such options?

Would such a relay: https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1448130400&sr=8-3&keywords=zwave+relay
have worked in your switch setup?

u/DrMarf · 1 pointr/SmartThings

This is the one I am about to order. Check out the reviews. Lots of pictures from people who have hooked it up.

Edit: Looks like it's out of stock and no idea when it's coming back. :(
But at least it looks like the one wgbm linked hooks up about the same way.

u/nrcaldwell · 1 pointr/Abode

Maybe check this Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module. It's reported as compatible. Here's a thread where someone is using it to control a fireplace: https://www.reddit.com/r/Abode/comments/5qe8up/zwave_fireplace_control/

u/CAreadin · 1 pointr/amazonecho

How about rigging his chair with an Echo Dot (gen 2). Gen 2 is cheaper and has USB power so you can power from either the chair or a Mophie juice pack. Tethered to his phone for connectivity so he can take Alexa with him when he goes out?

For the garage door ...If chamberlain didn’t suck by not providing a free skill I’d suggest the MyQ for about $60. However maybe can figure out another way to open and close by voice. If he already has a Zwave hub like SmartThings wonder if you could use this relay, along with a linear actuator to press the garage button using voice. Create a routine: when I say Alexa open garage, turn on relay, which powers the actuator and presses the button. Seems like this would work and now I kind of want to find a button to press at my house to try it. Can vouch for this working just throwing out some ideas for people to weigh in on.

Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YBn7BbX000B54

ECO-WORTHY 12V 2 Inch Stroke Linear Actuator 330lbs Maximum Lift with Mounting Brackets (12VDC 2'') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NM8H5TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lRn7Bb3459MZV


u/cmlaney · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If you use Home Assistant, there's actually a built in component for reading license plates. All you need is a cheap IP camera (edit, or web camera) and you're ready to go. To actually open the gate, you're probably going to want some sort of dry-contact relay, like this. You can also set Home Assistant up to send you an alert or flash a light in your home when an unrecognized car pulls up.

u/karlw00t · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI

Garage doors work by shorting the door wires for a moment to command the door. You could use this to accomplish that to open and close a door. You'd need a tilt sensor to know your door position and figure out the logic in HA. If you tell Alexa to close the door, and it's closed, do nothing.

I'm just a random person on the internet, research it yourself.

u/hunterstee · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Yep, the Remotec Dry Contact module is absolutely perfect for that.

https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI

You could use any z-wave dry contact module really, just don't try to use a standard z-wave wall switch designed to switch line voltage. If you somehow manage to get line voltage to the millivolt contacts for the gas valve, then you will fry it. But the Remotec one is especially good for this use case because it has extra terminals for the existing physical switch. So you can still use the physical switch to turn the fireplace on and off without it getting out of sync with the z-wave relay. Could probably do the same with a MIMOLite Dry Contact Bridge, but it's also almost $20 more than the Remotec with no other benefit in this case.

Here's a great write-up I found when I did my fireplace:

http://thedataist.com/off-topic-how-to-automate-your-gas-fireplace/

Be aware that you will still need line voltage to the module to power the z-wave radio, and that line voltage and millivolt shouldn't be wired in the same electrical box unless you have one specifically for this purpose that has a divider. I was lucky because my fireplace already had a 120V outlet underneath it for the blower, so the setup was a simple as the instructions I linked to.

I actually took it a step further since that outlet also had a separate wall switch for turning the blower on and off, and I wanted to be able to control the blower by z-wave but didn't care about controlling it with the physical switch. So I also replaced the outlet underneath with an in-wall z-wave outlet, then plugged the power cord for the Remotec into the socket of the z-wave outlet that was not controlled by z-wave to prevent a sort of z-wave redundancy, and the blower into the socket of the outlet that is controlled by z-wave. By doing this I can control the blower with z-wave and no longer with the original switch on the wall, but instead use the switch on the wall as sort of a safety cutoff to completely kill power to the outlet below which of course then kills power to the Remotec and the blower. I just flip that switch off if I'm on vacation or in a time of the year when I don't use the fireplace. Did my best with the wording, but admittedly it's probably still REALLY hard to follow. I can make a diagram if needed.

Then I picked up a z-wave Aeon minimote for 20 bucks and set the buttons to control the fireplace and blower so that guests could control everything without using Google Home or having access to my hub. My fireplace didn't have a remote originally, and the price for all three parts was still less than adding one with the added benefit of being able to tie everything into automatons through my hub(s).

EDIT: Eventually I also want to add a z-wave gas shutoff valve either under the fireplace or for the main gas line coming into the house or maybe both just as an added precaution. Then write an automation that would shut it off if a smoke detector is tripped in that room or anywhere in the house depending on where I put the gas valve(s).

u/nomar383 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nd2ACbTCYCT50


I did the same thing, but with that relay instead. It allows you to keep the light switch working.

u/mareksoon · 1 pointr/winkhub

Many fireplaces aren’t powered at the existing wall switch; it’s just a switch that closes a loop to turn the solenoid that opens the flow of gas past either a pilot or ignitor.

Something like this looks perfect, BUT while the damn thing looks compatible with Decora-style cover plates, it isn’t (it’s a little too wide).

It doesn’t come with a compatible cover plate, either.

It’s also not UL listed. :-(

u/gozasc · 1 pointr/winkhub

Here's the gist of it:

  1. Buy this switch.
  2. Pair it to your Wink hub by setting it up as a "generic Z-Wave binary switch." During this process, the pairing will succeed but the in-app wizard will stall out. Cancel out of the wizard and you'll see it in the lights section as an unknown/unnamed device.
  3. Rename the switch to "Fireplace" or whatever you want.
  4. Rediscover the Wink devices via the Alexa app.

    As for the cosmetics, others have alluded that the switch plate covers will not fit. However, the thread pitch is the same and so you should be able to get one screw to thread properly. I used a blank wall plate and covered the inside with black duct tape because the blinking blue LED on the switch was making me crazy when I'd watch movies. I used the top screw to hold the plate onto the Remotec switch, and then took a second screw and used a Dremel to grind it down to just the head of the screw, then glued that onto the lower screw hole on the wall plate. It looks like both screws are in, but in reality it's just the top one holding it in place.
u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I don't have any experience with other options. I found this which seems like it would work. The key is that you need a relay, not a standard switch.

Hopefully someone here will offer a solution. You could also try posting to /r/electricians. Someone there might know.

u/the_bloody_nine_ · 1 pointr/winkhub

Great to hear! Was thinking I needed something like this for the low voltage:

Remotec Zwave Dry Contact Fixture Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00913ATFI

u/klieber · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Thanks -- that's helpful. Do you have any z-wave relays that you've used in the past? I've used the Remotec switch before, but if there's something else out there that's better, would love to know.