#275 in Computer accessories & peripherals
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Reddit mentions of Sabrent USB 2.0 to SATA/IDE 2.5/3.5/-INCH Hard Drive Converter EC-AHDD

Sentiment score: 11
Reddit mentions: 27

We found 27 Reddit mentions of Sabrent USB 2.0 to SATA/IDE 2.5/3.5/-INCH Hard Drive Converter EC-AHDD. Here are the top ones.

Sabrent USB 2.0 to SATA/IDE 2.5/3.5/-INCH Hard Drive Converter EC-AHDD
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Use your 2.5" / 3.5" IDE hard drive or SATA hard disk as an additional external hard drive Use your 2.5" / 3.5" IDE hard drive or SATA hard disk as an additional external hard drive Use your 2.5" / 3.5" IDE hard drive or SATA hard disk as an additional external hard driveConnect your SATA / IDE device to your computer through a USB port.Compliant with USB 1.1 and 2.0 standardsHot-Swappable: Plug and Play without RebootingCompatible Windows PC or Mac with Available USB /2.0/1.1 Port
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Found 27 comments on Sabrent USB 2.0 to SATA/IDE 2.5/3.5/-INCH Hard Drive Converter EC-AHDD:

u/Manodactyl · 5 pointsr/techsupport

get one of these it's not a fancy enclosure or anything but it'll allow you to get the data off pretty much any drive in existence.

u/tujsa · 5 pointsr/vancouverwa

Do you have access to the computer? If so how much access?

You could install a simple key-logger that runs in the background and logs every keystroke made, then check the logs and you will have his password.

If you don't have that much access to the computer then you need to remove a couple screws pull out the hard drive and install it in another computer as a secondary hard drive. Once you locate/remove the hard drive in his computer it's as easy as using a tool like this http://www.amazon.com/sabrent-Converter-Supply-Activity-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI to hook it up to another computer.

If you still can't access the files after doing that, then you need to hire a professional. PM me with any questions.

u/nightwheel · 3 pointsr/retrobattlestations

If all else fails, you can get one of these to retrieve what ever you want from the hard drive directly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HJ99DI/

u/kiwiandapple · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

Ow my! This is going to be awesome. Let me first answer your questions.

If something may sound "Chinese" to you, don't worry I will provide a lot of videos that probably explain what I type here (tomorrow).

---

> The one I'm replacing is a Dell Dimension 8200 that's about 15 years old.
>> I've tried out hundreds of applications and have more than a dozen that I consider important enough that I'll have to figure out a way to transfer them and their data over to the new machine.

Okay, you're very likely still using IDE hard drives. These are old and we've by now replace those with much smaller SATA hard drives. SATA cables are much smaller and easier to manage and the SATA bus is also faster.
I can be sure that your oldie is taking a couple minutes to start up Windows, right?

Anyway, luckily you can buy devices these days that make transferring files over to a new PC or laptop very easy.
Sabrent USB 2.0 TO SATA/IDE. You plug the HDD with the data on into this device, then connect the USB cable to the system where you want to transfer the files too and tada! Depending on the size, it may take some time to write it all, but you can just let it sit and do it's thing no problem.

> Do you think I should wait for after Christmas sales or buy now?

Hard to tell, from what I've seen the last 2 years that I've been around. I never really noticed huge sales during any of the "sales" times. Of course there are exceptions and it's possible to find some very solid deals to save $50-200 on a $1000+ system. But I personally am not that convinced that it's "worth the wait". It's really hit or miss to find a product that you need on these sales.

The best thing to wait for is most often big shows or conventions. Such as CES (5th till 8th of January 2017), Computex (May 30th till 3rd of June 2017) and other smaller ones.
Because big companies like Intel, AMD, Nvidia, Asus, Corsair, EVGA, Samsung, etc. are often showing off new products or prototypes that come to the market right away or very quickly after those shows are done.

So with CES in less than a month, new products are very likely going to hit the market in about a month time. If you can wait for this, then it's certainly something to consider. However, I have no idea what comes out of it, most of these products are under NDA so we can mostly speculate and that's it.
Nvidia is going to very likely release their new flag ship gaming video card, the GTX1080Ti. But this is probably not worth buying for your use. It's going to be very expensive and almost half of your budget, which is just not worth it.
AMD is hopefully going to tell us more about their new CPUs codename Zen. They've given us some performance comparisons and a bit more specifications of their new 8 core CPUs, last Tuesday. But most of that was just confirming the most likely rumours that were floating around. No release date or prices yet, aside from "Q1'2017". Soo.. I hope that they'll tell us more on CES!

> California, USA

MicroCenter access? This one is in Tustin / Orange County. If it's within ~30/60 minutes drive it's certainly worth it to go there to save a good amount of money, especially the CPU and motherboards.

> I'll worry about the monitor, keyboard, and mouse later.

What kind of budget do you have in mind for this? We can help with suggestions here as well!

> If you could recommend a good all in one printer that would be nice too.

This is certainly not something we've got asked here often. But I have some experience with Printers. I am no expert tho!

In terms of my overal experience; Canon printers work just about fine enough, they're cheap and do their job.. most of the time. They do eat inkt like candy tho, but this is something most printers do.
HP is a brand I will avoid for Printers forever, bought a fairly expensive one that just would give me more problems than actually printing. The reviews on it where good enough to give it a shot, but I guess I got unlucky, support was terrible as well. It was all our fault! It was loud, sometimes "ate" the paper for no freaking reason and don't let me start about the inkt.
Replaced that one with a cheap Canon that's been working just about fine for more than a year.
However, the one brand that I trust and love, has been Brother. They're certainly capable of just doing it right! I've had a Brother printer at my previous job and it wasn't too cheap, but certainly worth the money. I am sure that that beast is still kicking and printing, faxing around like it's nobodies business!
So that's why I can recommend a Brother printer without much doubt: Brother MFC-L2700DW. It can also fax! As well as scan, copy & print even from your WiFi. You can connect the printer via WiFi to your router, which allows you to print with anything that the router can connect to, so you can print from PCs, laptops, tablets and even smartphones without needing to plug in any cable! Aside from the power cable of course.

> I want a RAID for backup

I am just going to say that RAID is redundancy, not backup! It's in the name: "Redundant Array of Inexpensive Disks".
While I understand that you call it backup, if your PC/PSU dies for some very odd reason, it could potentially kill both the HDDs that are in RAID at the same time and then you still lose all the files.
If you want to backup files, you should invest in a NAS (Network Arranged Storage) or a Cloud Storage. I personally don't feel comfortable putting sensitive data in a Cloud data center. But if it's nothing major, then feel free to use it. This means that when your house sets on fire and burns your PC & NAS, you'll still have files in the Cloud that you can access with any device.
But when you backup files to a NAS & cloud. It's very hard to lose data. RAIDs are good, but I don't recommend this often. Because once you start adding more than 2 HDDs, it's not going to be very valuable to RAID1 your HDDs (mirror). Thus then you should better look at RAID5/6 which is extremely straining on the motherboard it's storage chip and thus it's recommended to buy a RAID card. But those get expensive quickly, which is why I recommend a NAS!

I recommend to backup to a NAS (you can and most do use RAID here!) or a Cloud. It's the safest way to keep your digital valuable information alive.

> I have found that video on the motherboard is a nice feature to have when the graphics card decides to stop working the night before a deadline.

This is a shame, because for your use case. I would recommend a CPU that does not have on-board graphics. The whole platform does not have this.
But you can consider to buy a cheap $35 card and keep it out of the system in a box somewhere. In worst case scenario, you can use that when a video card suddenly dies.. However, video cards most often don't die suddenly, they'll start to show signs of "death" in terms of bad performance, overheating or just the screen getting artifacts.

> Ventilation matters more than color and I don't need any LED's or color coordinating.

Very true that ventilation is important, but even more importantly are dust filters and that you blow out any dust that does manages to get through with some compressed air every 3-6 months. This will keep a PC alive for much longer compared to.. this scary stuff.
Luckily most modern cases of today have good filters that prevent this from happening!

---

Stop talking already and give me a suggestion!


Sorry, I'll work on this tomorrow. I have to get some more sleep first.

u/Synikx · 3 pointsr/techsupport

To get the data off, I use this sata to usb hub

Once the data is off, the OS would have to be reinstalled.

u/TradeSekrat · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Oh that's easy, they sell Sata/IDE to USB converters for less then $20 all over the place. They power up the drive and everything, no big deal. I got one for the same reason being modern PCs don't tend to have IDE anymore.


I use this one but I sure all of the different brands are more or less the same
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJ99DI

u/stephengee · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You should be fine with any old pata>usb adapter.

If they're from a windows xp machine, 99% positive they will be NTFS. You'll have no trouble at all reading them from any windows machine.

If they weren't failing, recovering the files is as simple as copying them to another storage device.

As for viruses, its nearly impossible to infect your PC just by having the disks plugged in. When you install them, before opening any files, just use windows defender to scan them manually if you want some peace of mind.

If the disk is encrypted, well you're probably shit out of luck.

u/Ayit_Sevi · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The cable plugs into the motherboard in the white connector towards the left. Then the cable plugs into the hard drive, there's a latch on the top of the cable cable that should line up with the opening on the hard drive, plus it's keyed so you shouldn't have to many issues. The molex cable is sided as well, like a trapazoid so it will only fit in one way. For the power supply, you can use the old one to power just the hard drive but I thought you said the current power supply had a molex connector. If you still don't think you're able to do it right, you might be better off getting a IDE to USB adapter like this. I have one myself and it works well, I kept the box and it stays in a drawer when I'm not using it.

u/TheGift1973 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

That should work perfectly fine for what you want.

Just remove the harddrive from your non-working laptop; connect the USB end to a working PC and the sata end to the hard drive you just removed and you should be able to access the hard drive as you would any other attached HDD/SSD.

You may have to take ownership of the folders (including other sub-folders as well, but that is also pretty straight forward. If you do run into that issue and need help, just ask.

Personally I use something like this as I am always having to access data for people whose computers have become damaged for whatever reason. It covers both 2.5" and 3.5" SATA and IDE. But if this is just a one-off data recovery mission, then the one you have linked to will do just fine.

u/engineerfromhell · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Ha ha, been there too many times, that's standard laptop IDE drive, new motherboards not going to have header for that, so your best bet is to get that adapter, count me a sucker, but I think this exactly what you need for $12

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HJ99DI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481351840&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=Usb+ide

Now, I'm not frequent Amazon shopper, so not sure if there's any restrictions on that. So, this is device that you need, at very good price, if there's no catch.

u/FirstGearGames · 1 pointr/techsupport

I have this one ( https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Activity-Support-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479680284&sr=8-2&keywords=sabrent+ec-ahdd ) and it works well enough. It's only $13 at the moment. You'll obviously need something to put the files on but it essentially turns your drive into a USB stick. Though the pictures don't show, it does come with a power supply and a few other adapters. Feel free to browse the QA on it.

u/GengarTx · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have this old ipod gen 3 hdd. I'm trying to find an enclosure for it or some kind of adapter.

ATA is the same thing as IDE, right? Is this sufficient?

u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

It could also have come from a SATA to USB adapter, like this Sabrent one.

u/microwavetoasting · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

try disconnecting all external devices first.

you can't access bios, is that correct? if so, last resort would be taking it apart and resetting the bios if possible, or take out the hdd and connect it to another machine via this

and remember: back things up regularly, so your boss doesn't kill you. solely relying on old machines is a bad idea.

u/JohnDolt · 1 pointr/techsupport

Oh sweet, thank you very much!

Edit: Would this be a good one, being a one time use thing don't plan on wasting too much money. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Activity-Support-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI

u/tanafras · 1 pointr/techsupport

Oh yeah, batching works fine too, its just cost vs time equafion. I have few dupe needs, so I spent under $300 and I have 3 clones going from time to time myself. Have fun cloning☺

edit:
Here's what I use by the way;it's just fine for my needs
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV5000100/dp/B00JT0EGPW

http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-eSATA-Components-SI-PEX40065/dp/B00AZ9T4F8

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG

and lastly the ssd's external / internal

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Shockproof-Enclosure-EC-UK3B/dp/B0126RO1YK

http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-512GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7KE512BW/dp/B00LF10KTO

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJ99DI

Cheers.

u/ReproCompter · 1 pointr/techsupport

As others have said, It's IDE and something like THIS is what you need.

u/omgwtfamidoinghere · 1 pointr/techsupport

If you're just looking for an adapter, yes they do exist. I use one for hard drives all the time but I don't see why it wouldn't work with an optical drive as well. If you'd like, I could test it out later tonight.

I use something like this, Sabrent USB 2.0 TO SATA/IDE 2.5/3.5/-INCH Hard Drive Converter With Power Supply & LED Activity Lights [4TB Support] (USB-DSC5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJ99DI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j6MCybNDNXQQ4

u/DarknessSavior · 1 pointr/techsupport

Oh, sorry. I thought you were asking if I was using SATA or IDE.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Converter-Activity-Support-USB-DSC5/dp/B000HJ99DI

That's the adapter I have. I also have another Japanese one (that basically looks exactly the same) that gives me the same results (I bought a second one when I got here because I thought maybe mine was broken or the voltage being different was causing issues).

u/nats15 · 0 pointsr/AskReddit

I think you don't understand how these cables work. I use these adapters nearly daily. The steps you are offering are waaaay overboard, and there is an easier way to do this.

edit I googled the harddrive, and saw the full intact bottom. Forgive me, I thought the bottom cover was over top controller, but seeing this shot I know differently.