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Reddit mentions of SRAM GXP Bottom Bracket, Team Cup English 68/73mm

Sentiment score: 3
Reddit mentions: 3

We found 3 Reddit mentions of SRAM GXP Bottom Bracket, Team Cup English 68/73mm. Here are the top ones.

SRAM GXP Bottom Bracket, Team Cup English 68/73mm
Buying options
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    Features:
  • Frame Interface - For mountain and road bikes with English threading.
  • Shell Width - Fits 68 or 73-millimeter bracket shells. Comes with spacers for 73mm.
  • Cranksets - Bottom brackets are interchangeable between SRAM and Truvativ cranksets but can only be installed with SRAM cranks.
  • Gutter Seal Technology - Drastically improves sealing against the elements while reducing seal drag and friction.
  • GXP Technology - Gutter seal design cuts friction, durability and weight - improving both feel and performance.
Specs:
ColorOne Color
Height6 Inches
Length3 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateMay 2011
Size67/78mm
Weight0.3 Pounds
Width3 Inches

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Found 3 comments on SRAM GXP Bottom Bracket, Team Cup English 68/73mm:

u/Jehu920 · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

This is your guy Just make sure to get the english/68mm version and not the italian one.

Before you buy it though do more checking that it's your bottom bracket. I'd start with taking the chain off and seeing you if you can get the noise back. Then take off the cranks off and make sure they're greased in all the right spots. Take a look at the bottom bracket, try greasing it, then reinstall and try again.

Then make sure your crank is properly tightened. Omniums need that nds bolt to be pretty tight. You can check that by lightly pushing the arm toward the frame and pulling it back. If you wiggles and feels like it kinda shifting (as opposed to flexing) then you need to tighten the bolt.

u/pfaffo · 1 pointr/cycling

i know you said you were going to take it to the shop. if you do, buy the SRAM Team GXP BB.

this job requires only 1 specialized tool however, and if you have any inclination to do it yourself it's one of the simpler things you can do at home.

ingredients:

  1. buy this $30 sram gxp bb

  2. find/borrow/buy one of these, make sure it's shimano/sram compatible. just a thought: you might be able to use a jar opener--the ratching strap kind, not the plastic OXO kind--but i wouldn't count on it.

  3. grease. i like park's poly lube, but others swear by park's anti-seize compound for bb threads

  4. 8mm hex wrench with at least 6" length for leverage, the more the better

  5. rags

  6. rubbing alcohol

    directions:

  7. for greatest convenience, maybe remove the chain or tape/ziptie it up on the seat tube where it's out of the way of the crank.

  8. remove the rival crank from the non-drive side with 8mm wrench. lefty-loosey. it might be tight. don't overdo it though, loosen in a controlled fashion so you don't overcompensate then swing your knuckles into the chainring teeth. i've done that, it hurts and leaves scars.

  9. sometimes it's hard to get a purchase on the crank arm and generate the leverage to loosen the bolt. i like to insert the hex wrench so its in the 4 o'clock position relative to the crank arm, which is in the 6 o'clock. then i grab the crank arm with my left hand, for leverage to loosen the bolt with my right hand. conversely, you can flip the clock positions, grip the crank arm and the hex wrench with one hand, and tighten your grip to loosen the bolt. if you do it that way, watch your fingertips so they don't get squashed between the hex wrench and the crank arm.

  10. it's a self-extracting bolt, so as you loosen, the crank arm will separate from the crank spindle. once the NDS arm is off, pull the spindle out by the drive-side. clean and set aside.

  11. remove the old bb bearing cups with the bb wrench. note that on the drive side, it's righty-loosey. non-drive side is normal. clean the threads in the BB with rubbing alcohol and rag. you want to get any grit out of the threads to installing the new cups goes smoothly and you can get a proper fit.

  12. coat the threads of the new bb bearing cups with grease and/or anti-seize compound. you should also apply some grease to the threads in the bb itself. install the cups with the plastic dust shield, noting to install the correct cup on the correct side, and being sure to thread them in properly.

  13. remember, drive side is reverse-threaded. lefty-tighty. screw them in by hand, then tighten with the bb wrench. firm pressure, but not brute forcing it.

  14. clean and grease the crank spindle along the polished bands that interface with the interior races of the new bb bearings. insert the crank through drive side. on GXP BBs, the spindle on the drive side is fatter than the spindle on the non drive side, so even if you're slow, you'll figure it out. slide it in, give it a few whacks with your palm to make sure it's seated all the way in. you may want to clean and re-grease the splines on the non-drive side end of the crank spindle.

  15. line up the NDS crank arm along the splines, tighten the 8mm bolt. tighten until the bolt pulls the crankarm flush with the bearing cup, then a wee bit more. you may have to put a little elbow grease into it, but not enough to hurt yourself, no bulging vein on your forehead. you can use the 6 oclock 4 oclock trick again to tighten it properly. tight enough is leaving a firm imprint of the hex wrench in your palm, maybe a little bit red.

  16. re-install chain, get on your bike and ride.

u/dablya · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Thinking about it... Might be a good way to get into maintaining it myself. Is this bracket right for me?

http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Bottom-Bracket-Team-English/dp/B003L9EIZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1342199131&sr=1-1&keywords=truvativ+road+gxp+bottom+bracket

I'm having a hard time parsing the description... "It's compatible with all SRAM road and Truvativ mountain cranksets." I have a Truvativ road crankset, is it still compatible? Based on some comments, it looks like i should ignore manufacturers instructions and not use any spacers. Also, it looks like I'll need a tool to tighten the bracket from the outside. I've seen a few youtube videos that use torque wrenches to tighten from the inside, what kind of torque wrench would I need for the outside tightening tool. Thanks, and sorry if the questions don't make sense, I'm not sure what to call some of the stuff.