Unifi is the best what you can get in the professional range for a reasonable price. There is only one step up, which would be Cisco, but that stuff is unmanageable if you are not seriously familiar with their equipment.
Get a couple of Unifi AC Longrange Access Points (Unifi AP AC LR), they are simply awesome. They broadcast on both 2.4 and 5 GHz simultaneously, and the range is crazy. One of them is like 100$, and there are packs of 3, where you save a little. Connect them to your router/mode from your ISP, or get a switch from Unifi and connect them to it.


And yes, you wan't to keep both networks. It's actually not 2 networks, it's the same network broadcast over 2 different frequencies. But people might have older devices not supporting the newer 5 GHz standard, so you should keep it.

Network cabling everywhere. Even if you aren't in tech, you'll still find tremendous use out of this. Some requirements if I were to get it done custom:

• At least one ethernet jack per room, maybe two per room on opposite sides if I could splurge. These are called network drops.
  
• For each ethernet jack, run TWO ethernet cat5/6 per drop, because if one of them breaks or fails, you don't want to be the one that has to rewire a second one from your network closet to the jack. Also useful for testing if the cable is the culprit or if your networking gear is at fault. You don't have to hook up both cables on both sides, just choose one cable per jack to connect and the other is left dangling until you need it.
  
• Addendum to above, if you want to be very fancy, get ceiling mounted wireless access points and have a network drop in the ceiling where the WAP will be mounted. You can get WAPs that are powered over an ethernet cable (called Power over Ethernet, PoE) and you would need a PoE Injector with your switch equipment to supply enough power over the lines (though some network switches PoE inject by default, so look for those if you want convenience), or you can wire another power outlet to where the WAP will go in parallel to the network drop that should be there too. Unless your home layout is convoluted, one, maybe two WAPs per floor is sufficient, usually in the common areas of each floor. Too many will cause interference with each other and you'll have a bad wifi signal. You can go with consumer grade TPLink or Netgear (ceiling mounted, remember, not just any old wireless router), or go with a more enterprise Ubiquity WAP (what we use).
  
• Find a good spot for your networking gear, preferably near your home "demarc" AKA where your internet comes into the house at. Or, move the demarc into a closet for easier access. Have a patch panel set up that all of the network drops from the rooms connects to, and then you would connect each jack on the patch panel to a network switch, which then has one uplink (connection) to your home modem/router. Of course, the patch panel and network switch have to have at least as many ports as you have network drops to rooms, so if you have 16 drops, you'll have to get a 16 port patch panel and a 16+1 port switch (+1 because you have to have one connection to your uplink router/modem).
  
• Not 100% necessary, but if you like having internet during power outages, or just momentary power in general during an outage, get a UPS or two or four... It will provide battery backup power to whatever is plugged into it for a certain amount of time, depending on the electrical load (how many devices you have plugged in, and how much power each device uses). I personally have 4 UPSs all around the house. One for the bedroom, and our phone chargers are plugged into them so we still have charged phones if a power outage happens overnight; one for our desktop computers (avid gamers :P); one for our networking equipment (power spike usually means you lost your internet and it has to reboot. I haven't had to deal with since getting a UPS unless the outage lasts for longer than 30-45 minutes!); and one for the living room TV setup and consoles. If you could only get one, I'd recommend it for the networking gear so you still have internet during momentary spikes. Useful for cell phones and laptops!
  
  This turned out longer than I expected, so if anything is confusing or you want more details, let me know!

You can upgrade wifi router with an enterprise grade unifi ac-lr for $90 from Amazon, it'll beat anything consumer grade.

Edit. Link here: Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/

I'm currently upgrading my own setup. What I decided on:

Ubiquity edge router 4

Ubiquity Unify AP-AC wifi access point

Not a cheap setup, but I'm done with high ping and weak wifi coverage.

I had a spare Apple router laying around. Haven't had issues at 30-40ft or so. WiFi is a tricky business, because no matter where you go, the environment will always be different for WiFi channels.

A lot of places are broadcasting on 2.4g or 5g. So having a router/ap that does both is probably your best bet for flexibility.

If you're wanting something simple and cheap, just look at some basic home routers like Linksys (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014MIBLSA/ref=twister_B07FTFK622?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1).

If you are willing to do a bit more pre-setup (one-time) and have a greater throw for your WiFi, I would suggest an ubiquiti edgerouter and Ubiquiti long range access point (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C)
(https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI).
That'll get you DHCP and a longer distance than most retail routers.

If you need any more suggestions or have questions, let me know. I'm a certified network engineer.

Edit: the reason I like ubiquiti is because it scans the current environment for wifi channel conflicts and makes the appropriate adjustments.

I've been fantastically pleased with Ubiquiti UAP access points...except for the controller method of configuration. From a stability and throughput standpoint they're "fucking amazing". I got one a year or so ago to try out, after looking inside and seeing the dinky things they call antennas I was afraid I had just thrown away good money...

Beamforming really helps with getting signal where it actually needs to be, rather than just splattering it everywhere and hoping enough ends up wherever. It's no joke! We've got three metals buildings connected in a U-shape here, and I've never been able to get wifi to the far end of it, through multiple interior and exterior walls.

Threw one of these on the wall without consideration other than "wifi for these two offices that I hope to not have to reboot too often", and it just worked, automagicially, through our entire building. 24/7/365. It's not incredibly fast at the far end, but I'm amazed that it works at all. Seriously, the antennas look like tiny malformed paperclips...

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/

Radiation pattern: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi-Wireless/Antenna-radiation-pattern-for-UniFi-AP-diagramm-inside/td-p/772468

I swear I'm not affiliated with them, for all I know they're just a scam to get backdoored hardware in every office of America. And I absolutely hate the java controller. But I love the coverage and reliablity...

Got a 5Ghz version a few months ago, and it moves some bytes: http://imgur.com/FJvMba0

I know what you need, you need a WAP that's meant for long distance signals. Ubiquiti has a few that also work outside.

One sec.

Edit:

Since I don't know what kind of ethernet situation you have in the main house, I've included a powerline adapter.

Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LR

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI

Powerline Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Zyxel-Powerline-Gigabit-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00D7GF6NA


The way you would set this up:

Router -> Power line #1 -----> Power line #2 (electrical outlet nearest to the wall that's nearest to your house) --> Ubiquiti LR WAP, if you can mount it outside, even better.

Essentially, the powerline adapter will act as an ethernet run for this project, and will allow you to place the WAP on the wall that's nearest to your house from the main property. The LR (long range) WAP that I've chosen should be able to reach your area.

There are more expensive routes to go, but this should get the job done.

Edit:

Or...

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-PBE-M5-400-2-pack-PowerBeam-AirMAX/dp/B00UZ03UUW

If they don't mind having some little dishes outside.

Thanks for all the advice. Got the boss to approve the budget for two PoE injectors, going to use two access points. After looking into it further, due to the heavy lighting and metal reflection, Wifi extenders probably aren't best-use.

Debating between these two access points:

https://www.amazon.ca/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Wireless-Supports-Technology-EAP245/dp/B01N0XZ1TU/

Thanks for all the help! ^_^

Off the top of my head, you'll want:

3x UAP-AC-LR, these are perfect for a warehouse.

US-8-60W, this will power all three APs and the Cloud Key.

USG router

Cloud Key to run the controller.

You can cut costs from here in a few ways: Eliminate the PoE switch, use an unmanaged gigabit switch and use PoE injectors (included with the APs) to power the APs. Instead of getting the Cloud Key, install the controller on an Ethernet-connected desktop PC or a Raspberry Pi.

Keep in mind that Ethernet runs need to be less than 300 feet. You may need to put the switch at a central location to keep them under the limit.

I would suggest looking into a better wifi access point. Range extenders are usually creating more problems than they solve. I'd recommend a Ubiquiti Unifi AP-LR (LR stand for long range), which can be had for $87 on amazon. If you need or want better wifi speed and the ability to use the 5GHz band which is usually less crowded, you could get the Unifi AP-AC-LR for $189 on amazon.

I am using one at work and they are simply amazing, very good range, no issues even with 50 devices connected, they are fast and reliable. The only downside is that they require a small software to install on a PC. The interface is relatively simple, but there are a lot of options due to the more "enterprise" nature of these devices. There are tons of info online on how to set it up and I would be willing to help you set it up if you decide to buy one.

I used this to extend my wifi. Works very well, but you'll need to have it plugged into an ethernet port and to a power source if you don't have a PoE (power over ethernet) switch. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI

Going to copy/paste this from my history as its asked rather frequently on this sub.
--

Spectrum is fine, if you can get AT&T Fiber go that route. Check to see if you're able to get Fiber here;

https://www.att.com/internet/fiber.html

(Note, only their 1000/1000 speed is 'uncapped' -- the rest of their offerings, Fiber or DSL has a data cap)

For Spectrum, you're looking at:

200/10 (or) 400/20 (or) 940/35

The base tier is fine for the vast overwhelming majority of people. You'd probably know if you needed more speed than the base tier (Eg: Off site backups, serving up Plex to friends/family..etc) Spectrum also has no data caps on any of their speed tiers. You'll use a Spectrum modem (which they provide for free) but use your own router as they do charge a monthly fee for wifi. As far as what networking gear to get, that's easy.

Get yourself

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1534877933&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+edgerouter + https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1534877954&sr=8-3&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point

and have worry free wifi. Don't bother with routers from Asus/Netgear/TpLink..etc. They're comparatively junk next to the ubiquiti equipment.

If you're going with Spectrum, use your own Wifi infrastructure. The Ubiquiti stuff linked above is a fantastic solution. The Spectrum provided modem will work fine, regardless of the tier you subscribe to

The 400/20 tier will probably get you an Arris TM1602 which is an absolute piece of trash as it uses the Puma 6 chipset. Read more about that here;

https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/consumers-file-class-action-lawsuit-against-arris-for-defective-cable-modems-300433510.html

If you do sub to the 400/20 tier, I then suggest picking up your own modem, specifically, the Netgear CM600 as it does not use the Puma 6 chipset, but rather, a Broadcom BCM3384 and is an 'approved' modem by Spectrum.

The base tier as well as the Gig tier with Spectrum will get you a satisfactory modem at no additional cost.

Milwaukee has been activated as a "Gig" market for Spectrum, and has been for 4 months or so.

This means a speed of 940/35 is now available for most--if not all of the area. The gig tier does require a $200 technician visit as well as a Spectrum provided modem. Customer owned modems are currently not being provisioned for the gig tier. The Spectrum modem is a Technicolor TC4400, but there is no monthly charge for using the Spectrum provided modem.

I'm gonna level with you.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Buy one of these, make sure you get an LR model. They're industrial access points, and they work really well. Easy to use, nifty cloud controller you can join them to and do maintenance/change settings on the AP. One or two will absolutely cover your house, and the transition from one AP to another is seamless. It might not be a quarter mile coverage, but I connect to my wifi before I pull into my driveway at home.

[uniquiti Acesss Point. ](Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xZlvCbQTYKBTQ)

Could you turn off the wifi of your current router and get something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LR/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459006172&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+lr it's an access point only but, it has power over ethernet so you aren't limited to being near a power outlet to use it. So if you could discretely run an ethernet cable from your router and mount it on a wall somewhere more central in your house you would get better coverage. Also as an access point is the main wifi hotspot. A repeater just well repeats that main hotspot to give more effective range. Just think of it like one of those baton races.

You don't mention what your existing equipment is, but if it is typical consumer-grade stuff, like LinkSys, D-Link, Netgear, etc. you should be able to replace all of it with 5 good APs.

5 x Ubiquiti Unify UAP-AC-LR

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PRCBBI?th=1

Ubiquiti AP's are also centrally controlled and managed from a free app. You can monitor traffic, see which device is using the most bandwidth, etc. Excellent gear for the money.

Wow, you want to do all that with a Celeron Quad-core? If that's all I had I would throw CentOS 7 Minimal Server on it...
https://www.howtoforge.com/tutorial/centos-7-minimal-server/

For easy GUI administration use
Webmin: https://lintut.com/how-to-install-webmin-on-centos-7/

For TM Backups use NFS or SMB: https://www.unixmen.com/setting-nfs-server-client-centos-7/ https://lintut.com/easy-samba-installation-on-rhel-centos-7/

To enable NFS on Mac: http://www.serverlab.ca/tutorials/osx/administration-osx/how-to-connect-mac-os-x-to-nfs-shares/

For DLNA use Plex Media Server (enable DLNA in settings): http://brettspence.com/2014/11/17/installing-plex-media-server-on-centos-7/

For Web app hosting etc. use Apache or Nginx with MYSQL & PHP: https://www.howtoforge.com/tutorial/centos-lamp-server-apache-mysql-php/
https://www.digitalocean.com/community/tutorials/how-to-install-linux-nginx-mysql-php-lemp-stack-on-centos-7

Use Webmin to administer your virtualhosts using the Apache module or use this Nginx module: https://github.com/vixh/nginx-webmin

For NextCloud use this script https://github.com/PietsHost/Nextcloud-Installation-Script

For DIY IoT edge device/gateway, there's no better for the money than EdgeRouter X + UniFi AC AP (Lite/LR): https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-ER-X-Networks-Router/dp/B0144R449W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305813&sr=8-2&keywords=edgerouter+x

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305859&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+ap+ac+lite

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305879&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+ap+ac+lr

For VPN use OpenVPN (use this script): https://github.com/Angristan/OpenVPN-install
NOTE: With this script it remove passwords by default, just open the script up in a text editor and remove the "nopass" text (4 times) and your good to go! It's very easy to install and add/remove users.

Again, this is a lot for a small little machine to do, but this is how I would do it with the limited hardware you have.

Cheers!

Uquiti lites: about $80

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

AC Pros: $95 each:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

Six dudes:

EAP 225 about $130, $22 bucks each

AC Lite: $160, $27 bucks each (and you guys get free amazon prime still I think?)

AC Pro: $190, $32 each. Get some cat6 patch cables from Monoprice (or via amazon, with free shipping). You're good to go.

$22 to $32 bucks each: I'd skip a beer day, and pony up for the full AC pros.

Using the UniFi controller with UniFi APs will very easily and plainly let you know who is using what bandwidth. It'll also let you kick them off if you're so inclined.

Take a look at the hardware (link) and maybe google up on the UniFi controller itself to see if you like it. I'd highly suggest it personally.

I generally agree with you, although if you have a ton of devices or a larger space to cover then you may need to pay more for a router or access point that can meet those needs reliably.

I had a lot of trouble getting a distant dropcam to work reliably with powerline extenders, wifi extenders, etc. Eventually, I was able to get an Access Point that had enough range to pick it up, but none of the cheap ones I had around or even a $200 Airport Extreme (which seems to work well in all other scenarios) was able to deliver the range I needed.

Since people will probably ask, the one that worked was this: http://amzn.com/B015PRCBBI

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HXT8EKE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PRCBBI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i also have just a linksys switch just for more lan ports ;) the wifi strength and performance is great! look it up on youtube a bit more though!

Can be a bit more complicated to setup somewhat... but set it up from my phone w/o issues. 4000 sq foot house with zero signal issues! and that's with one access point.

I suggest buying a UAP for the main house, if it's centrally located you should be OK. I have the UAP-LR and a very large house with marble floors and thick walls and it gets most the house.

Run an Ethernet cable to the guest house and setup another UAP there. You could use a MoCA Adapter to do this (since you apparently have one). Don't put two routers on the network, imagine the MoCA adapter as just extending the Ethernet cable.

You could also continue using your router supplied wifi and just use the uap for the guest house. I suggest 2 UAPs and a ubiquiti cloudkey or a computer running the controller to avoid interference issues.

1. The AC LR and the other Unifi access points come with a poe injector in the box. The manual tells you how to set it up.
   
2. The switch is what take the internet from the USG and gives it to your wired devices. Even if you have no wired devices its recommended you have a switch since you can connect into the AP if it has issues wired. The switch I use. My setup is like this: Modem --> USG --> Switch --> AC LR --> wifi devices etc
   
   
3. Yes the access point is what gives wifi to your house.
   
   
4. The ERX has more features, but the USG is on the Unifi product line meaning it uses the same piece of software to manage as the LR. Unifi Controller . I can managed my whole network from the single software and not have to log directly in like the ERX. The controller software is how you setup and manage your network. So make sure you have it on one of your computers preferably a desktop or laptop with ethernet just in case you gotta go in hardwired.
   
   Here is a video showing a setup: https://youtu.be/HcfIpTso_Ys
   
   The cloud key is optional but if you have the money then go for it.

Honestly this! Get a good AC AP LR and you shouldn’t have a single issue with range and throughout at a distance either. I had This and I could pick it up down the street and a buddy’s house on the backside of it actually. If you know how to set it up right and know where to place it all you will need is this singular AP.

As far as a home firewall I would check that device out. You place it after you Comcast modem, but then before an aftermarket wireless access point. Your Comcast modem would then only exist as your internet gateway with your whole network behind the firewall. If you do this you should also disable the WiFi on the Comcast.

One of your biggest opportunities for saving is going to come from dropping the second AC-Lite. How big is your space? What's the materials it's made from? I've got a pair of AC-Lites, and I occasionally toy with taking one of them out, as they're a solid 50 feet apart on the opposite ends of my house, and they're still too close. One of them (the one closest to the driveway, of course) will give me adequate signal coverage through an exterior wall at the end of my driveway, well over 70 yards away. The only reason I don't is because the other AP is significantly closer to the outdoor areas of the back yard where we want solid signal as well.

So really get a feel for whether you think you'll need that second AP. If you're in anything other than a steel-framed house or a house that's significantly bigger than 2000 square feet, you can probably drop to a single AC-Lite and be fine. If you're right on the edge, switching to a single UAP-AC-LR might take care of the problem for about $60 cheaper.

As for the ER-X, while I liked mine, quite a bit actually, I don't think it's a good fit for a lab IF you have any intentions of doing funky stuff on your WAN connection. I was using it to run a Tinc VPN, which it can do with some modifications, and it did the job just fine. Except that I had to completely redo everything every time there was a software update, and at one point the updates got big enough that I couldn't actually download the update without removing the VPN functionality first. Yes, I could've used OpenVPN or IPSec, but that would've involved changing three different sites over to it along with the ER-X, so I eventually gave up and went with pfSense.

The only other place you could maybe shave a few bucks is the switch, if you didn't need managed capabilities. (For example, this looks a lot like the setup I've been considering for my parents' house, but I wouldn't need a managed switch there.) I probably wouldn't bother unless you KNOW you won't need or want the managed functions.

I feel like I’m always repeating myself in this sub, but Ubiquiti access point all the way! Get the LR (long range) Version and you will be fine, I also have FiOS gigabit and use a LR without issue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_qoWOBb596MMGM

Also you can add more later if you feel the need....

I completely forgot that Ubiquiti makes a long range access point.

I think this could be a good solution for you, I've heard of these being boosted to cover half a mile. It would involve turning off the wireless access point in your router and using this in place of that, so relatively minimal financial investment. You'd keep using the router as a router, just not a router/AP multifunction device.

How tech savy are you?

But consider this - $8/mo for 12 months is 96.

A good reliable DOCSIS 3.1 modem (only modem, not router) is $170 on amazon today. That's less than 2 years and modems tend to live a long time unless you have lots of lightening.

Now lets add a router - we'll get fancy and do EdgeRouter & Unifi Wifi Access Point.

Edgerouter is $60, and a UniFi AP that will cover MOST households better than a Linksys is 100.

So you spent $330 up front for a REALLY good system. If it lasts you 4.78 years you broke even. Mine has lasted me 2 years already thru mulitple storms in the gulf coast. Well, teh modem isn't that old b/c I had a non gigabit for a while as we didn't have that option.

Amazon has them for $98.41 if you have a Prime account

If you are going to spend that much to fix his wifi why not take the jump and get this https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487192187&sr=1-1&keywords=unifi+ac+lr

Sounds like you have faulty old wireless routers that are interfering with each other. What you need is one new Router/A.P that has massive distance. I would recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536702639&sr=8-1&keywords=ubuiti+ap

It's incredibly easy to setup, and it's range is 5x more than what you need. I personally have it, and I can sit in my car which is 90ft away and download a podcast before going to work. You can also pick up another one, and setup a mesh network. So the connectivity is full bars throughout the building. Hope this helps.

Honestly the AirPort ease of setup is the biggie. For most people it will automagically set most things.

I don't think routers are hard to set up via the webui but then again I do this stuff for a living. Something cheap like this honestly gets the job done in most cases where long range or AC isn't a requirement.

If you've gotta have AC you're probably looking at $150+ for a router. Honestly at that point I'd probably get a cheap router to act as a gateway and a nice stand-alone AP for wireless.

I almost never recommend running the "quick setup" disks that come with a lot of consumer routers; I've seen them do waaayyyyyy too many janky things to ever trust them. Some companies will have web-managed routers that do similar things to AirPorts but I'm just not super keen on having my inexpensive home router require a web account to configure/control.

That's all probably more than my 2 cents. More like 3.50.

Instead of a router why not get a proper AP with a management interface?

I use this at home and it does great.

I need to build a whole new network because the cable modem is only the Spectrum bare bones with nothing but a wired connection. If I'm seeing this correctly, I would need the EdgerouterX plus the Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range plus a [switch] (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-60W-US-8-60W/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=pd_bxgy_147_3/134-2367728-7655000?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MU3WUX1&pd_rd_r=441ae487-d265-4bf9-bee1-32808368ecd6&pd_rd_w=m61Fs&pd_rd_wg=RryX3&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=RWYB945JJK6S08X1HX3V&psc=1&refRID=RWYB945JJK6S08X1HX3V)for the wired LAN computer to connect to in the back of the house.

I could then plug the Unifi AP into either the EdgerouterX or the switch where my main computer is plugged in with Cat5. If necessary, I could get another Unifi AP and have them plugged in at both ends of the house in a wireless mesh.

Thanks for all the comments! I think I'll be going with the LR.

To answer people's concerns:

1. I do have a full infrastructure already going in my homelab, with multiple VLANs each with existing DHCP servers and routers. So I actually do want "just an AP". (I also have a NAS so I definitely don't need the "readyShare" cheap NAS that Nighthawks have.)
   
   
2. The Pro is around $144 on eBay, but I can get an LR for $107.59 on Amazon with free Prime shipping. http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A1B5ZP69N9WQBH
   
   It's looking like all three WAPs (Lite, LR and Pro) all have the same core feature set and their only differences are their maximum speed and range (and physical size). Once I get around to remodeling the rest of my house, I'll probably throw a Lite WAP on each floor and stick the LR against the back wall as I said before. (Long term remodeling will be to bring an Ethernet feed out to the garage, so then I could throw the LR in the garage for even better outdoor range.)
   
   I'll post on here once I get my WAP and let everyone know how it works for my setup, but given the cost and Amazon's return policy I can't see this going wrong.
   
   

The repeater has to overlap the routers WiFi signal by no less than 30%. You can't really know where that is without a spectrum analyser, which cost 10k.

The best way to resolve this is to buy a Ubiquitous light weight access point

That's going to get the job done. Once you have it disable the routers WiFi and just use the Ubiquitous AP. You won't need that repeater either.

hey. thanks for the reply.

​

Since I am not well versed in networking I am unsure how access points actually work.

For this Unifi AP AC LR this is what I've read on amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LR/product-reviews/B015PRCBBI ):

​

"1. It isn't a router. This seems to catch many people, especially home users, off guard. But I've always used a separate router, so no problem there.2. It is powered over the Ethernet connection, which is great for commercial installation but an annoyance for home install.3. The controller software must be used during setup and is best kept running 24/7. Not a problem if you have a server computer (which I do). Once running it is reachable through a web browser on any of your computers (nice). "

​

1. I would need a router obviously and I had the idea that this AP can work as one
   
2. Now my question here: if I wanted to have a second AP would I need to get the ethernet wiring over there also (meaning it wouldn't work wirelessly as mesh networks do)? Powerline would work for me as well I just don't want to install another 50meter cable into the walls (although I might consider it if it's that good of an idea).
   
3. well this is worrying as I wouldn't want to keep a separate machine running just to keep the internet up
   
   ​
   
   Thanks in advance in any insight you can give in this matter!
   
   ​
   
   PS. additionally on paper the Orbi gives a 2200Mbps performance compared to the Unifi one which if I calculate correctly is 1300+Mbps. I currently have a 1Gbps (on paper, 350Mbps guaranteed) connection. That is quite the different in bandwith.

>EDIT: oh, and turn off the Wi-Fi on the comcast box so it doesn't conflict.

Hey /u/Archvile7, thanks again for the prompt and in depth response. I gave you a well deserved upvote. You clearly have a lot of experience and a lot of insight into the field. I received the floor plan from the owner and I just purchased the Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-LR-US based on your recommendation and the rave reviews it has received. I just needed that little push from someone who has some skin in the game. You make some really good points in regards to troubleshooting down the road. Ultimately, I think that I wanted to do it for experience and they want to have me try it. As the saying goes, it's good to know someone in IT... well that's not really a saying, but you get what I mean.

Thanks for sharing your personal experience with network setups. This shop does in fact run a large dryer used to dry screen printed clothing, so I will avoid those areas due to high temperatures. I have a location already in mind to securely install the AP to a joist. As stated before, the Ethernet cables are already run throughout from the previous tenants, so I theoretically would only have to terminate a few cables.

I may start with the single AP and see how that performs for them. I was considering a guest VLAN for them, but let's keep that on the back burner for now. From what I've been reading on Amazon, users have installed the Ubiquiti software controller on a Raspberry Pi. Again, I may or may not go down that road, but it could be an inexpensive way of getting more control remotely. I will most definitely set up the SSID and password the same to ensure easy handoff. They don't have wireless printers or any of that. Very simple network layout so far. I plugged three of their computers to an Ethernet that is plugged into a 5-port switch.

This may be optimistic thinking, but I am hoping that the Ubiquiti AP will offer strong enough coverage so that I can turn off the WiFi on the Xfinity gateway like you said. The Xfinity gateway is located near their office, which they probably would continue to want WiFi. This was the 'bridge mode' question that I had. If the signal isn't quite strong enough coming from the AP in the warehouse, I may leave the Xfinity gateway running WiFi, or I will simply have them purchase a second AP for the office area.

Again, I really appreciate the deep analysis and sharing your personal experiences with me. I will continue to update this thread for future researchers. I think that this will come in handy for many who are genuinely interested in getting their hands dirty.

There are likely many options for your setup and maybe you'll get a lot of suggestions. I can tell you that I have a similar setup as far as home and devices. I had the Linksys WRT AC1900 (with DD-WRT open source firmware). It worked just fine, but I wanted a bit more control and options. I went with the Ubiquiti EdgeRouterX and the Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC LR (long range) access point. This provided the ability to separate out devices by network (VLANs) as well as give the option to be able to easily add additional access points if I need it. Head over to the r/Ubiquiti subreddit for more info if you are interested. This setup hits pretty close to your budget, but does require a bit more tech know-how than setting up a single all-in-one router. The Ubiquiti line is sort of considered Pro-Sumer I think.

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "UAP"



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

I do agree and I've heard lots of good things about Ubiquiti and did look into that:

switch (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK)

AP (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HVE9H3KXJB8DQZ6MEKAH)

That would run me about $300 for two AP's for the non-pro versions which is what the router cost, but then I'd have to string PoE cable which would be difficult but not impossible. I was hoping there was a simpler solution and someone had good experiences with an off the shelf router. I'm also scared of investing into Ubiquiti because if it doesn't work out as well the return process would be more difficult.

This router has great range for both 2.4 Ghz, the older type of WiFi, which is most commonly used and has great range for current gen 5 Ghz WiFi. It's not from a well known brand so getting something else might be a good idea.

Here is a refurb from a much more common brand that's going to have a little less performance.

Here is a great device that only does WiFi. It's from a very quality brand and will be supported for a long time. It's not going to be plug and play though; if you don't mind getting your hands dirty it's probably the best thing you can get.

With APs their transmission power is limited to 1W by the FCC. So they all essentially have the same range regardless of model or brand. There are some different propagation properties, but they don't make a huge difference. The enterprise style APs like those perform best when mounted to the ceiling. But work well on walls, or anywhere in a central location. They're omnidirectional.

The one I linked is the lower end of Ubiquiti's APs, you can spend more for better forming ones, but that one is still an improvement over normal consumer models. I personally us the UAP-AC-LR. But to be honest in day-to-day usage you wouldn't notice a big difference. I can get ~400mbs in real world transfer speeds. I'm planning on upgrading to the NanoHD at some point.

Unifi devices work off a central controller for managing all your Unifi devices. Instead of an interface for every device, everything is controlled in one place through a web UI. There are a few ways to run it. You can use a Raspberry Pi, just run it on your OS, run it as a docker, or buy a cloud key. It doesn't need to be running all the time either, just to get everything set up and configured. Once everything is configured you just let it go.

Thank you for the help. Unfortunately, our budget at the moment only allows for one or the other. I'm wondering if the Archer C7 is maybe our best bet? Or, would we still be ok with just the Unifi? Maybe it is best if I show you what I'm looking at. Considering we have 150 mbps speed, which of these is my best option?

This Unifi, which has multiple models and I don't know which one I should go for

This Archer C7 router and modem bundle, which I think is what you're talking about

Or should I combine this modem with this wifi router?

Or, if I'm completely missing the point, should I combine this modem with this Unifi? The Unifi is kind of pricey, so I'm wondering if this cheaper model will handle my speed just fine. At most, we have 1 computer gaming, 1 Amazon Fire-Stick streaming, and 2 phones connected to WiFi.

I know some of this doesn't line up with what you're saying, but I'm trying to incorporate what I'm learning with what my budget is :/

taking into account cost and usability...

this is the route i would personally go with.

Ubiquiti Security Gateway (router)

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/

Ubiquiti Long Range AP

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/

Ubiquiti 8 Port Gigabit Switch

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-8-Unifi-Switch/dp/B01MZ32B1B/

the Ubiquiti gear takes a bit more time/knowledge to setup, but is far more robust and offers greater network security.

i'd strongly suggest naming your 2.4GHz network and 5GHz network slightly different names (ie. HomeNetwork24 / HomeNetwork5). this allows you to choose which network/signal you want to use. 2.4GHz for slower/older devices that are further away / 5GHz for newer/faster devices that need the extra speed (streaming, gaming, etc).

I'm confused. First you mention a modem, then you call it a router. I do have an old modem, but I don't have a second router. Would a cheap 2nd router do the trick or should I spring for a real access point like this one

FYI , you shouldn't use "range extenders" , they can really kill and much up wireless bandwidth and cause interference .

If you need better range , you should wire up a Wireless AP to the router with a cat5 cable and put it in a central location .

I love Ubiquiti products , rock solid ! https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543440302&sr=1-5&keywords=ubiquity

Are you using wifi to test the speed? If so, try connecting a computer with an ethernet cable (any type will do, if it was bought in the last 20 years). Make sure all other devices are off, or at least not using data. To test, use speedtest.net. It will automatically choose the best server and measure your speeds. If your speeds are still slow, it is your ISP's fault. Contact them and figure it out with them.

If your speeds are fine with ethernet, then it's a wifi issue. Your current router can handle 60 Mb of network traffic, just not through wifi. It could also be metal pipes in your walls creating a Faraday cage. In either case, you should buy a Ubiquiti access point. This is the cheapest option, this one is more powerful, and this is designed for use in large buildings or spaces. They are probably some of the best access points you can get but might take a little setup.

IMO - disable the wireless side of your AC1750 and go buy a dedicated AP. Like a unifi LR. They can be had for about $100. Even cheaper if you look around or wait for a sale. Also, if you need to increase your coverage down the road , you can always add more unifi APs.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI

Thanks both of you for the reply! Regarding the controller--that's a great idea--I didn't know I couldn't incorporate the EdgeRouter into my controller instance (I'm new to controllers though). It does look like the Unified Gateway is the way to go.

​

Also, after thinking on it--I guess I'll splurge for a 16 port POE+ switch just so I'm safe. So the hardware update would be;

​

Router

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540404424&sr=8-1&keywords=unified+gateway

​

Switch

UniFi Network Switch US-16-150W Switch Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP 150W

https://www.amazon.com/Network-Switch-US-16-150W-Managed-Gigabit/dp/B07G4HKV3N/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1540404535&sr=8-8&keywords=ubiquiti+switch+16

​

AP

Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US)

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

​

​

Do I really need a Cloud Key?

​

As an update I own these two switches - right now my setup under cable is modem - router/wifi/switch - NAS/5-Port Switch/8-Port Switch/Free (I think, I cannot recall, I do not think I have a 4th device hooked into it).

So their modem - pfsense - I am assuming this EdgerRouterPOE/8PortSwitch/5Port Switch/Ubiqiti AP

Am I missing something?

Yea, I really dislike that you can't use your own modem. When I was living in the states, I had this neat Arris Docsis 3.0 modem that was amazing! Izzi locks it down as well. HOWEVER, I have an Ubiquiti access point that I installed because the range was completely useless. All the access point does is generate it's own Wi-Fi network and has a way stronger range than the stock router Izzi provided.

Installation is super easy, too. Simply plug the access point to your modem, install the Ubiquiti software on a PC, load up the software and you'll see the access point through there. Then it's just a matter of giving the Wi-Fi network a name and password. Don't let the "Enterprise" label scare you.

Do you live in Tijuana?

Thinking about something like this Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LR Do you see a need for a PoE switch if the only thing I'd be running off of it was this Ubiquiti AP? Looks like the AP comes with some kind of power converter so that I wouldn't necessarily need a POE switch to run it off of. No other PoE devices on the network. But this will probably be the switch that lasts us another 10 years so if there's some functionality that we might use somewhere down the line it would be worth grabbing now.

Just a HUGE price difference between the two. Right now we have a [3Com 2948-SFP] (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833105139) switch back there and I'm looking at something like this HP Procurve 2620 to replace it. I also have a friend who does networking who says I should be looking at Cisco switches like this Small Business 200 one as well, but I don't know the pros and cons (except that I could ask him for setup help I guess!)

But I'm also a bit worried as it seems like the damaged switch we have now is a Layer 2 switch and it sounds like Layer 3 switches require a lot more setup.

I'm reading up a lot about it and I'm not afraid to tackle more complicated set up if it can get us better functionality or make life easier down the line for me. I'm just all alone here and I inherited all this set up already and just had to maintain it, so I'm kind of gun shy about ordering thousands worth of equipment I've never worked with and not being able to get it to work properly!

Your router is simply the point where your local network is translated out to other networks (in this case the internet). Since you want to be on the same local network as everything else in the house, what you're looking for is NOT a second router. I believe you are falling prey to incorrect terminology here. What you want (assuming you want a wireless connection) is to have a WAP (Wireless Access Point) to provide a wifi signal where you need it. Here's how that works. From your router, you use one of your spare ports to run a cable to the area you want a better wireless signal, you then plug said cable into a wireless access point and it will provide wireless connectivity in that area depending on the range and specifications of the WAP.

Now, there ARE ways to extend wifi range and use a second, or third WAP without running a cable to it as some of the other gentlemen mentioned. This can be done if your router (the one going to your provider/ISP) ALSO has wireless capabilities. In that case, a remote WAP could do something called bridging the connection. Basically you could use the second WAP to receive the wireless signal of the router, and extend it as a second hop. This does bring problems though since without the WAP being hard wired, you're relying on the wireless signal from the router to the WAP, and from the WAP to your PC. There's a lot more that goes into doing wireless bridging than if you simply cabled the WAP instead. For example, you need to carefully place the WAP so it's close enough to the router to receive a strong-ish signal, but you ALSO need the WAP to be close enough to the low signal area to provide you with a better signal.

As you can see, the better of the two options is simply to run a cable from your router to the WAP where you need your wireless signal. WAPs can be pretty cheap, easily under 100 bucks. I personally use a UniFi AC Pro AP for my wireless access point since my router doesn't have WiFi, however for your case I think a longer range solution like the UniFi AC LR AP would be better. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI There are other brands out there too, but this one is nice because it has free software you can use to see who is connected to the WAP, what the signal strength for them is, and how much (if any) noise there is on the frequencies that the WiFi signal is going over. Since you life on a farm house, there should be little to no RF(Radio frequency) noise, so the signal should be nice and strong.

Hope this helps!

It really depends on the size of the house and what the walls are made out of. My parents house isn't that big but it's old and the walls are plaster and have chicken wire in between them. I needed 3 APs to cover the house and networks speeds were iffy on the remote APs compared to the main one. This was a 802.11n network though.

I don't know where the bottleneck is on your network exactly so I'd troubleshoot starting with the least expensive options first to determine where it is before you go and spend lots of money.

1. $15 If it's an option, buy a cheap switch and move the NAS to room B as I mentioned above and see if that improves performance.
   
   
2. $35 Buy a Chromecast and see if it performs any better than the Roku Stick.
   
   
3. $80-200 Buy a Roku 3/4 or Nvidia Shield TV. Regular settop box might get better receptions than a streaming stick.
   
   
4. $200 Buy 2x Ubiquit UAC-AC-LR Wireless Access Points. These are considered the best APs on the market and these are the long range versions. I personally love these things
   
   
5. $370 Buy THIS MONSTROSITY and pray the signal reaches all corners of your home.

you have a amazon link? was about to get this one http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C?ie=UTF8&keywords=Ubiquiti%20EdgeRouter%20X&qid=1462818057&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
and http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1462819605&sr=1-1&keywords=ap-ac-lr

Do power-over-ethernet (PoE) wireless access points (WAPs) to ensure you have rock solid high-speed wifi access. That will require ethernet wiring to the places where you put the WAPs. Most PoE WAPs contain a power injector, so you won't need to buy a PoE switch. Ubiquiti UniFi makes a good product for this use.

Use wired ethernet for devices that don't move, like desktop PCs, home servers, big, wall-mounted Smart TVs, etc. Use Wifi for things that might move, like laptops, phones, tablets, small Smart TVs, etc. If you make the wifi very good (with those WAPs I talked about) then you won't be hurting yourself by using Wifi when it's appropriate.

I do not like wifi repeaters. They add latency to your connection and frequency congestion. Do not use them. If you strategically place the WAPs, you won't have to care where the router is. My router's wifi is disabled, as all wireless traffic runs through my WAPs, which are installed in the attic on either end of the house. My house is a long ranch/rambler style. In the worst signal area (the middle where I'm farthest from each WAP) I get a consistent >50 mbps down and 20 - 30 mbps up over the internet. That's more than sufficient for nearly anything and I regularly use it to stream 1080p video, download games on Steam, etc. And that's in the very worst part of my house. I can easily get 200 mbps if I get nearer to an access point.

EDIT: I recommend these WAPs:

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463432115&sr=8-1&keywords=unifi+ap+ac+lr

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-Access/dp/B015PRO512/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463432254&sr=8-1&keywords=UAP%E2%80%91AC%E2%80%91PRO

I have the LITE version, but prices have come down and now the LR is the same price I paid for the LITE. 400 - 600 ft of functional range is more than most people need.

Like the linked video Point to Point may work, but probably not cheap. If they are that close you may be able to get line of site. For something temporary, that won't cost an arm and a leg, not sure. Maybe a Ubiquiti Long Range Access Point mounted outside your neighbors house (this assumes no weather will get to the device and it will stay between -10 and 50c at all times)? They are supposed to go up to 188 meters with no interference between.

Yeah, this product springs to mind, and it tends to be the most recommended wifi brand on this sub (although I don't have one.. yet).


Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LR


Or the Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LR which is much more expensive


Info sheet says 183m for each of them. But I don't know their actual performance at long range.

I noticed in this guide that it says the AP required UniFi controller 4.7 or higher. Is the guide just outdated? This is the AP I'm looking at.

If ease of use is your thing then get the USG, 8 port UniFi switch, and an AP-AC-LR, The AP-AC-LR's have both 2.4/5Ghz bands.

You can get two AP-AC-LR's and UPLINK the second from the first one if you are unable to run Ethernet.

No need to add a router off the switch as it will segregate the networks. I.E. Create two networks. And it's rather pointless.

Just buy a second access point.

What sq ft are you trying to cover? 1 AP-AC-LR can relatively cover a 1500 sqft 1 story wood/plaster home.

USG: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485235835&sr=1-1&keywords=unifi+usg

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Managed-Gigabit-US-8-150W/dp/B01DKXT4CI

AP-AC-LR: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485235882&sr=1-1&keywords=AP+AC+LR

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI this works well if you can run Ethernet. LR is for Long-Range. These require PoE injectors (included) unless you have one of their PoE switches (from what I've read)

They don't work well. Neither do powerline adapters.


I agree with the consensus. The ultimate answer is to wire a separate wireless access point at the other end of the house. Another router can serve as a wireless access point but if you need to buy one, a dedicated access point is best and can be had for the price of a cheap router.


https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536237737&sr=8-3&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point


This is a prosumer device and may not be quite as simple to setup as something bought off the shelf at BestBuy.

​

Something like this:

Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JelpDbJDW4K8E

That is a good modem for Comcast. I use it on the 150 MB/s tier. I'd also recommend this Ubiquiti router and this (again) Ubiquiti AC LR access point. As a bonus, the AP uses PoE so less wires and it can be mounted higher more easily. All together it'll be over OP's budget, but he will have good stuff. The modem will pay for itself in maybe 7 months.