Reddit mentions of Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner OBD II Car Diagnostic Scan Tool for Android & Windows, Check Engine Light Code Reader, Supports Torque Pro, OBD Fusion, DashCommand, Car Scanner App

Got this one for $12 and it works great with Torque and other apps on Android.

Oh, I completely understand passing on that car. Sounds like nothing was maintained.

Still, get one, they are very very useful, and cheap. Only $13 for an Android BT reader on Amazon - $18 if you need iOS. If you have Android, download Torque ($5 for paid version, but even free is very good.)

That under $25 set will have more features than the $200-$400+ readers still sold in autostores... and are more up to date, and can easily interface with the web for more code information.

The CX-7 turbo has a smaller compressor wheel as well as a smaller compressor wheel housing. This gives you a better low-end torque curve as well as faster spool-up and throttle response. This sort of turbo brings the torque needed for a small SUV with a turbo. The Speed3/6 K04 has a slightly larger compressor wheel and housing, which leads to higher top-end boost translating to more top-end power while sacrificing low end torque and response.

Typically, all the aftermarket turbos are listed as fitting the Speed3/6, CX-7 becuase they are all bolt-in replacements. The problem is if you get a CX-7 turbo, it'll still fit, but your power band WILL change, just like you're describing.

For a short-term problem solver, I might suggest getting a Bluetooth OBD-II scanner and looking at your boost levels. No, it's not the best solution for logging, but it'll do what you need it to. I know my speed3 hits max boost between 3500-3750 RPM; being ~15psi in gears 3 & 4. Why don't you try a 3rd gear pull and see where the motor hits max boost, what that max boost number is, and what RPM it's hit at? This is honestly the only thing I can think of with respect to diagnosing on the cheap, without an AP or pulling the turbo. You may also want to ask the mechanic again for the OEM serial number of the replacement they put in, and compare it to the CX7 vs. Speed3/6 turbos.

The stock MS3/MS6 K04 is typically serialized as K0422-881/882.
The stock CX-7 K04 is serialized as K0422-582.

I bought a car from the auto auction in the late 90's (CAAG in Surrey). Back then it was a risk v reward thing as you're never sure exactly what you're getting. You can browse the cars beforehand, start them up but they are packed in so tight you can't really drive them.

Plenty of deals to be had but its largely influenced by how popular it is that day. Best times is low season (Oct-Feb), and if it's raining. Mid week was better deals than weekends.

To judge prices, ignore blue book; Check Craigslist. Craiglist is the market.

Buy an ODB2 sensor to check diagnostics. (Depending on how old the car is, it may not work). Before every auction the auctioneer will call out any declarations and it will be on a big board (out of province, salvage, not legal etc)

The atmosphere is hectic and crazy and confusing and exciting, but once you've got a couple of times and see how it goes its not bad at all. If you want to bid on a car, have a price in mind and put your hand up if the price is right. An auction worker will come over to you and call the bids out for you so you're not confused by all the hand signals and yelling. If there is a reserve price on the car and you don't meet it, you can negotiate on the spot with the seller (standing near the auctioneer) if they are willing to take less than the reserve.

Try not to feel intimidated or bullied. Get a price in your mind and work with that.

Last note: You're going to have to settle price and insurance quickly, but they do have a broker on site to do transfers/reg/taxes

Hopefully this helps. My experience is close to 20 years old, but I spent a TON of time at the auction place and got a real good feel for how it worked at that time.

Amazon. Get a Bluetooth one, along with torque app. There's a bunch of vehicle specific apps too.

Android can be Bluetooth or WiFi, iPhone needs it to be a WiFi obd module.

This is the unit I use.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YQgtDbRWCVX9M

Better yet, Bluetooth ODBII: https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Scanner-Automotive-Diagnostic/dp/B011NSX27A

Pair it with the Torque Android app and you'll always know what's going on with your car. Even tracks gas mileage, trip cost, RPM, acceleration, realtime HP, etc.

You should look into Bluetooth OBD2 sensors. You'll get the most accurate speed readout plus car info

Here is an example of one.
https://amzn.com/B011NSX27A

On your smartphone, you can download an app called Torque Pro. It's $5 (at least it was when I bought it) then buy one of these that "talks" with your ECU. There should be a sensor it can read the transmission temps.

Just buy one. They are cheap, and useful. Amazon

Goes well with the Torque app

No worries.

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You need to start with figuring out why they want you to replace your entire exhaust system. Is it throwing a code? Is it rusted to pieces?

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Your car is fitted with 2 Cats, 3 O2 sensors, a resonator and a muffler. The absolute most expensive component will be the first cat, as it is part of the Exhaust Manifold. The cheapest one I could find from a half-reputable source is here at 350$. The rest of the system is pretty much bog standard and can be done by ANY exhaust shop without official parts. They probably also want you to replace the O2 sensors. These are generally expensive items but you are pretty lucky. You should have 3 of them. Upstream, Center and downstream.

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If you absolutely have to replace the whole system, do some research for reputable exhaust shops. Just google it and look at reviews. Talk to a shop of your choosing and ask them if you can provide the Exhaust manifold and sensors, and if they would be willing to do the rest. Since after the exhaust manifold, its a bone simple exhaust, a shop with a good welder will be able to throw together an exhaust for you from basic components in less than a day and much cheaper than buying all the pieces separately. Some shops will want to charge you more than 200$ for the second cat. Give them the finger and buy the secondary from RockAuto. At that point its just some pipe bending, a resonator and a muffler. I would be surprised if they want more than 300$. if you include both cats. That puts you at 470$ for the 2 cats, 75$ for all sensor and 300-400$ for the rest. That puts you under 1k$ for the whole system.

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The more likely scenario, is that they are just pissed off at a code your car is throwing (Your check engine light should be on in this case), I would start with buying a cheap OBD reader, or going to an OReilly's/AutoZone to get your ECU read and write down the code.

Here's one that will work with an Android Phone.

Here's one that will work with an iPhone.

Once you get the exact code the ECU is throwing, it'll tell you which sensor is unhappy.

Sensor 1: Either bad sensor or engine running poorly.

Sensor 2: Either bad sensor or the cat is not heating up properly.

Sensor 3: Either bad sensor or the cat is not burning up remaining fuel correctly.

From there you should be able to troubleshoot and fix the problem. Since sensors are 25$, I would start with those.

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One last thing, did they shove something in your exhaust during the check? Ford's emission systems are ridiculously lenient, and often will not trigger sensor faults even if the cat is in shreds and missing most of its honeycomb. In that case, change your cats and forget about the rest of the system.

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Everyone should have one these days. They're super cheap. This is the first one that came up on Amazon. Seems to be reviewed well. It's bluetooth and connects to your phone. There are a number of free apps that will serve your purposes. I use OBD Car Doctor.

Good luck!

I am using this one now link

no problems with it so far. I've had it plugged in for over a month now.

This is the one that gave me problems link

That's because I'm an idiot and used the wrong letters. It's OBD. This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If it's just for one vehicle, occasionally, go to the parts store.

If you are having regular issues, then I would get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A

I use it with the Torque app on my phone.

It was something like this one

Try $20.

https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480686425&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+ii+scanner

just have to link it to yoru phone.

Bluetooth Amazon ones work great! And you can do other things like HUD stuff with them too. Also if you get an error code you can search it immediately.

*This is one for Android but they have them for everything. And it is what I have.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Compatible-Vehicles/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1549987254&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bluetooth+obd2+android

I'd recommend getting an ODB such as (https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539359592&sr=8-3&keywords=odb). Only $20, plug it in, pair with your phone, and get all kinda of diagnostic info.

Part of what they are charing you for is exactly this service. They have a fancier one that can get more info, but if you get your numbers and post them on something like r/caradvice you might be able to get a good answer.

You can get a bluetooth-enabled OBD II scanner on Amazon, like this one, and then use a smartphone app like Torque Pro (Android) or OBD Fusion (iOS) to gain access to all sorts of information that the computer has but isn't displayed.

I use Torque Pro to display a digital speed gauge, digital fuel gauge, distance to empty, and miles per gallon.

This is the reader I bought, but pretty much any OBD2 bluetooth reader should work: https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Automotive-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511365822&sr=1-5&keywords=veepeak+obd2+scanner

There is some delay, but nothing more than you'd see on Torque alone. I wouldn't use this as a standalone boost gauge, but for certain metrics (coolant, voltage, rpm) that you want to monitor for a "safe" range this works well.

I bought this one.

https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=92BXK3R3X07WM5PHT7QP

I have a Bluetooth ODB2 dongle that connects to an app on my phone (Torque). I think I spent a total of about C$30 for everything... I can read and clear fault codes, as well as realtime monitoring and logging of numerous data points.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=odb2&qid=1562934174&s=gateway&sr=8-1

They should've done it, yes. You'd either see that, P0016, P0017, or P1345. DO NOT let them clear the code at AutoZone.

Also, order one of these and download Torque Pro for your phone. Given that you've got a high-mileage Cavalier, it's probably a good thing to have.

I got this one which rings all those bells. But you shouldn't be leaving it plugged in when you're not using it so I can't guarantee number 1.

here is 11.99

I have no idea. I bought this one, and it works fine for me. I previously bought a couple other chinese imports off ebay that didn't work.

Yup, even less - I bought a cheap one for like $12 and it ended up working ok-ish with basic phone app, but was detected as a "Cheap clone" on PC based laptop software.

This one however, I think I paid $18 for at the time has worked great on all platforms and software:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this;

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use it with the torque app. It's awesome! Is there something similar for iphone? If not, go get a used Android phone off a friend.

I'm using EVNotify with this $11 adapter from Amazon.

I use both Torque Pro and Carly.
Torque Pro works great for gauges and data, Carly works great for coding.
I've been using this cheap bluetooth adapter for both for 2 1/2 years:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A/

Well, you still need a reader, but it syncs with your phone. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B011NSX27A/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483663169&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=auto+code+readers&dpPl=1&dpID=41UbDuzVejL&ref=plSrch

Here, it's an obd reader that you plug into your obd port. Download the torque app and you can read your voltage among other gauges if thier info is on the data lines.

If your going to get it, make sure you select the one I listed for Android or select the wifi one for iOS.

Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII EOBD Scanner Adapter Automotive Check Engine Light Diagnostic Code Reader for Android Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Slwsyb0S79RKZ

No problem. I actually bought an Android tablet for the Torque app...assuming you're using an Apple device?

The reason I got the Android device was because with Apple, you can only use Wifi OBD2's. The Bluetooth has too many restrictions for the OBD2 connection to work. But Android works.

For the Bluetooth connection, I'm honestly not sure how many devices you can have connected at once, and I don't want to give you a wrong answer. Sorry.


Here is the sensor I got:

Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII EOBD Scanner Adapter Automotive Check Engine Light Diagnostic Code Reader for Android Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G7vsybDQWCKFQ

I got this one and paired it with the torque pro app. Works great. Can't go wrong for under $20 total.

Yes. Any $20 OBD reader.

I bought this one awhile back and it is all I use now. Much more convenient than the corded ones. And whatever app you use will probably give you the code information instead of having to look it up, as well.

I'm on iOS so it requires a low power bluetooth adapter so I got this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XKQQQW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I bought OBD Fusion off the App Store.

If you run Android then this will work and is cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_7?crid=29Y0KSBTGU65U&keywords=veepeak+obd2&qid=1573319560&s=automotive&sprefix=veepeak%2Cautomotive%2C211&sr=1-7

No problem. If for some reason you still can't get a code to come up, here is a link to the reader I use. I use it in combination with the app Torque. It has been able to read codes on all the Abarth/VW/ and Acuras I've used it on. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V9JQDbPQS8MJM

How do these compare to something like this and a phone app like Torque?

Would a ODBII(for $12!!) work?

Sounds like overpriced horse shit to me.

This is $10 (compared to $100 for the BlueDriver) and it works with Dr Prius, Hybrid Assistant, Torque, etc.

> What Makes BlueDriver Different

> >More Codes

> >Read all the codes the other scan tools read and the ones they don't.

Huh? Codes the other scan tools don't? The car turns on your check engine light and reports an alphanumeric error code. There are no codes that scan tools don't read that I've ever heard of. Different cars have different sensors exposed. For example, in the Prius you can read tons of information about the HV system through an ODBII port. You don't need an expensive ODBII reader for this. Torque has PID databases for Priuses that will allow you to read all of these "hidden" sensors and apps like Dr. Prius are made specifically to interface with them.

>> Get the Confirmed Fix

>> No more Googling for unreliable fixes that waste your time and money. Using the same Identifix database professional shops use, BlueDriver will match your vehicle's issue to a verified fix from a database of over 30 million solutions.

This is pretty laughably stupid. Mechanics use the internet, too. Calling Google results unreliable wastes of time and money is ridiculous hyperbole.

Pretty much all the benefits of this thing are software features that can be had from any dongle with the right software. It seems like they're comparing this thing to traditional ODBII reading units instead of other BT units with various app pairings.

I keep a dongle from Automatic.com installed for metrics and I keep the above Veepak dongle around for more advanced troubleshooting. I've been making heavy use of it over the last week as I finally suffered my first battery failure. I can't think of any reason I'd spend $100 on that BlueDriver thing.

Also reccomend Torque pro but I bought this adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8CX2CbZ7MA1NK

invest in a cheap OBDII scanner like this one and an application like Torque. With the two you can read and then google fault codes when you get a check engine light. With that knowledge going into the shop you can see if your mechanic is giving you an honest diagnosis

(for the record that is not the OBD Scanned I own, just the one that came up first on Amazon I make no recommendation on that make/model)

My bad : Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII EOBD Scanner Adapter Automotive Check Engine Light Diagnostic Code Reader for Android Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_0viSybDPM03EG

As opposed to Excelvan v1.5 Bluetooth Mini Small Interface OBD2 Scanner Adapter Torque Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007P14NPU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_XwiSybD7NGCEX

The excelvan was dropping the BT way too often..almost every drive (phone: htc one m8)

No problem, if you are quite worried I recommend that you purchase a Bluetooth OBDII scanner. They pair directly to Android phones and show you exactly what your engine is doing at all times through apps like Torque. They are cheap too, around $20. Your call though as I am 99.9% certain the variation is 100% normal. I spoke to a mechanic at work about the vibration and he says that he has a fairly simple test. If the car vibrates while in park or in gear at a red light, it may be the fault of the transmission mounts. If it stops or gets less noticeable when put in neutral, it may be the engine mounts. There are many other possibilities like timing chains being off but as I said before, hard to tell without physically seeing the vehicle. Here's a link to the OBDII tool if interested. Hope you get everything sorted out!

https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Scanner-Android-Diagnostic/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457990220&sr=8-1&keywords=obd2

After rewatching the video, meltedsurfwax may be on to something. Sounds almost like loose trim. Didn't see videos before due to being on mobile.

I've got this this. Can I do it with this thing?

As they've said, any decently reviewed cheap adapter will work.

I have one very similar to this that I paid maybe 15 dollars for.

I've only had two codes pop up and they were 1) when I unplugged my MAF sensor when I moved my airbox to change my transmission fluid and 2) when my brake switch stopped working (yes, it actually threw a code!). I was able to take the code and do some googling to figure things out.

This is great for easy stuff, but if you're getting codes for something serious like a cylinder misfire you'll have to take it to the dealer or put down a few thousand for the Mazda interface computer.

There are 30 different brands of these, but they're all identical.

I have an Android set up for under $20. If you have Apple, the prices for hardware and software will be slightly higher.

This is the Bluetooth tool I am using, only $12: http://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Scanner-Automotive-Diagnostic/dp/B011NSX27A

You can use TorqueLite to read the codes, but for only $6 you can get OBDFusion. It can read the codes, plus it can log a bunch of parameters as you are driving.
https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion

I got these based on recommendation from a guru on a BMW forum. When people experience driveability issues he requests logs, and then can provide advise on whether you have issues with O2 sensors, fuel pressure, or vacuum leaks. You could spend more money on diagnostic tools, but I have not felt the need to upgrade my set up yet.

Get one of these and a corresponding app.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cBKqxbQT2B8GJ

Can even get a cheap dedicated Android phone.

Something left out of this video that's important is an OBDII scanner, assuming the vehicle is 1996 and newer. If you've already got a smartphone, getting a bluetooth reader off of Ebay/Amazon is inexpensive. It also helps with diagnosing future issues.

Let them know. If it is Carvana they will ship some to your house. I got the Veepak one. Look on the Spark EV forum and there is a recent post pointing to the PID files for the spark (mostly the same as the Bolt).

Pro-tip: Check engine lights are usually pretty easily repaired, but can indicate serious malfunctions inside your engine, and can cause all sorts of cascading problems down the line.

Since 1996, the OBD-II Interface has been standardized and is required in every vehicle sold in the US. So if you have a car in America, made after 1996 - you can do the following:

You can get one of these and an app on iOS/Android, and monitor all sorts of sensor information from your engine, as well as check and clear check engine light codes! It's very cool, and is something I use to monitor the health and performance of my engine on a daily basis.

The total investment is less than $20, and can grant a lot of peace-of-mind.

You could pop one of these guys in your car and see if it spits out any codes that you can lookup yourself

https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525651700&sr=8-3&keywords=code%2Breader&th=1

but it's not a full proper diagnostic like a professional would provide, of course. Nifty tool for $20 still.

What features of Hum do you value?

Want to read OBDII data on your phone? There's a non-subscription device for that: http://amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/

Want the Bluetooth speaker? There's loads of non-subscription devices for that.

For me, tracking car data is something that Verizon doesn't need to be involved in.