#60 in Tools & Home Improvement
Use arrows to jump to the previous/next product

Reddit mentions of Xuron - Xuron - 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter - 170-II

Sentiment score: 22
Reddit mentions: 37

We found 37 Reddit mentions of Xuron - Xuron - 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter - 170-II. Here are the top ones.

Xuron - Xuron - 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter - 170-II
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
or
    Features:
  • Type: Micro-Shear
  • Style: Flush
  • Capacity: 18 AWG
  • Overall Length (Inch): 5-7/64
  • Blister Pack With Generic Card
Specs:
ColorBlue
Height0.6 Inches
Length6.6 Inches
Number of items1
Weight0.1 Pounds
Width2.9 Inches

idea-bulb Interested in what Redditors like? Check out our Shuffle feature

Shuffle: random products popular on Reddit

Found 37 comments on Xuron - Xuron - 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter - 170-II:

u/SKWAAAARK · 28 pointsr/Warhammer40k

>He mentioned that your armies go obsolete like every 2 years! Is this true?

No, not really. New rules will come out every few years, which may force you to alter the roster of models and wargear you’re fielding, but models are almost never written out of the game.

>Should they just start with A Start Collecting Pack?

Yes. Start Collecting packs are fantastic.

>This pack would be a 500pt or 1000pt?

Start Collecting packs are closer to 500 points. There isn’t an exact point number because you can change the number of models in a squad or give them different wargear.

>Co worker also suggested taking them both to GW to see if they can even get their head around playing the game as the rule book is pretty intense…

Yeah, going to a game shop and having someone experienced walk you through the game is a pretty good way to get a handle on the basic rules. GW shops love new people, although they tend to be very pushy salesmen.

>Or should they get a Rule book to read. Then their codex. One wants Necrons the other Dark Eldar. And then decide on a 1000pt army and start buying/building/painting etc?

I’d say see if a game shop can give them a demo first before you commit to models and books. This stuff is expensive.

Don’t worry about what a 1000 point army is. It takes time to get there. I say…

  1. Start with a demo. If they like it, move on to…

  2. …the Start Collecting boxes, a small-format copy of the core rules from ebay, and the Codexes for whichever armies they chose. You'll also want primer, paint, brushes, plastic glue and/or loctite superglue, a pair of sprue cutters, and some small files.

  3. Once they’ve got a handle on the basic army rules that cover what they already own, use the codex to figure out what you’d need to add to build a good 500 point list, then 750, then 1000. Your ideas about what to include in your army will change as you gain more experience with your opponents.

    (Also don't let them buy new boxes unless the ones they have are already built.)

    Good luck!
u/kyriose · 10 pointsr/minipainting

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

  • Nippers
  • Hobby Knife
  • Thinning Medium
  • Glue
  • Glue Accelerant
  • Brush Cleaner
  • Palette

    Sprays

  • Primer
    ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  • Matte Varnish

    Brushes

  • Brushes
    ○ Round 0
    ○ Round 1
    ○ Round 2


    All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.

    This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)
u/TheSwami · 6 pointsr/amateurradio

To mention some other homebrewing supplies and tools that haven't come up here:

  • Copper Clad PCB Board for Manhattan or Dead Bug or Island Pad circuit construction.
  • Perf Board for circuits involving many IC's or other 0.1"-spaced leads.
  • A Solder Sucker, for clearing solder from perf-board
  • Solder Wick, for removing solder from things that aren't plated holes.
  • A cheapie Rotary Tool, for making isolation pads, cutting boards, rounding off edges.
  • A decent multimeter - decent used to mean something in that $30-$50 range, but now even down in the sub-$20 range you're looking at plus/minus 0.5% accuracy for voltage measurements, which is good enough for most homebrew purposes. Whatever you do, get one with a continuity alarm! A $6 meter without one is a $6 waste of your money.
  • A decent Soldering Iron. I spent years thinking I was bad at soldering, turns out I was bad at buying soldering irons. A 15W radioshack fixed iron with a fat tip will do you no good. The 50W adjustable pencil linked here it solid, though many people (myself included) prefer a soldering station
  • A pair of fine need nose pliers and a flush cutter. Xuron is the name brand, but excelite or hakko or most others are fine.

u/Taboobat · 5 pointsr/KingdomDeath

The 3 things you need are:

  • something to cut the pieces off the sprue -- an exacto knife will work, but flush cutters are easier to work with.
  • an adhesive -- super glue works, but plastic cement is better.
  • something to remove sprue nubs/mold lines from the plastic -- an exacto knife can work again here, but I prefer needle files. Much harder to make an error than when using a knife.

    That's pretty much it. If you want to dive in really deep I have a massive post that lists other tools and touches on a lot of customization that people have done. But none of that's mandatory, you can very easily forge ahead with just the 3 tools I linked above.
u/takeic · 5 pointsr/KingdomDeath

Plastic is fairly soft. As long as you're not trying to cut too close to the model anything with a sharp edge will work. Just make sure the blades are thin enough to work in between pieces. I'm using a Xuron.

u/windupmonkeys · 4 pointsr/modelmakers

Various tutorials are available on this website; I've included the one about welding parts together that would be most relevant to a beginner:

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/techniques/how-to-glue-parts-together/


Model Recommendations:

Airfix Zero, or a Spitfire Mk.22.

They both are new tool kits, cheap, should fit well, and have simple paint schemes. I have built the Mk.22 and the Spitfire PR XIX below; both fit very well and require minimal filling.

Don't pick camo paint jobs; pick something simple thats one to three colors with straight lines for color demarcations.

http://www.amazon.com/Airfix-A02017-Supermarine-Spitfire-Military/dp/B0021L9BNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416699&sr=8-1&keywords=spitfire+PRXIX

http://www.amazon.com/Airfix-A01005-Mitsubishi-Model-Building/dp/B0055ANHD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416717&sr=8-1&keywords=airfix+zero

Basic materials:

X-acto knife
Brushable paint, e.g. like Model Master Acrylic.
Wide, medium, and fine detail brush (I recommend golden talkon brushes you get at art stores for quite cheap) Like say, 1/4 inch wide brush, a smaller brush, and then a fine detail brush, maybe 1/0 or 5/0 brush for fine detail work. (The total of that shouldn't come out to more than 10 dollars at most.)
Liquid cement:(See tutorial here)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2clHW2UN0w

The idea is to weld it together with the solvent and then shave off the excess so you don't need to fill the seams.

Decal setting solution (a simple bottle of microsol will generally be adequate)

Tweezers.

A spray can of primer (it can be like krylon, probably).

If you're wanting to get fancy, a sprue cutter:

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394416917&sr=8-1&keywords=sprue+cutter

Other tips:

Brushes that come in "starter packs" generally suck, as does the paint.



PS: Don't buy "packages" of tools offered by model retailers until you google the price of each component separately. Those tool packages are often made of cheap junk that are lumped together and then sold at a premium.

The bare minimum (assuming you don't have a good, SHARP pocketknife) is liquid cement, and then a starter kit that includes paint, and three paintbrushes (of the widths I mentioned), and wet and dry sandpaper from the hardware store (try for 800 grit or higher).

Oh. And patience. Lots of it.

u/Yowomboo · 3 pointsr/HotWheels

You're really going to want rotary tool like a dremel. Power drills don't spin fast enough to make good use of the bits.

You can also use a pair of flush cutters to snip those off. You specifically want flush cutters, may be labled as flush side cutters, and not regular side cutters. They cut lower than the regular ones and fit into the space better.

The tool should be available at any craft store for <$15. Do not cut axles with the flush cutters as the metal is much harder than the base metal an can damage the tool.

The metal on the base is rather soft so these work fairly well. It take some finese to do it with out having to clean anything up though.

u/Pukit · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

I think you're going in too heavy with that paint set but it's up to you. I certainly have never bought a paint set. With the majority of kits you'll be making will probably use four or five paints per model when you start out, most of the time washes account for the most colour. Army painter make some really nice brushes/sets also paints, they are really good but half of those paints you may never use.

I research the kit I'm making, acquire the relevant paints, usually either vallejo, mig, ak or Tamiya. I have a real mix. This way I don't have any redundant paint, in the long run it's probably more expensive than just buying a set, but I can certainly say i've got no paint that i've never used.

For washes, I'd just get some oil paints, like winsor newton, some odourless turpentine. Once again, this is cheap, buy three or four colours and a pot of turps, a cheap brush a palette and you can make any colour you want. Some places like this do 4 for 3, the small tubes will last you years and years. There are some great videos on youtube for making washes with oil paints. I'd just get burnt umber, burnt sienna, maybe a green, blue, yellow and black.

You need a gloss clear coat, something like Mr Topcoat gloss is great, its acrylic so if you use enamel/oil paint washes over the top it won't ruin your base coat, and then finish the model with a matte or satin coat.

Take a step back, find a kit you want to make, see what paints you need. Get a brush set, get a can of spray primer, personally I'd use Tamiya's fine spray primer, it's cheap and really fine. Be very careful not to flood a model's detail though.

I'd go with a cheap pair of Xuron's, I started using them for my 3dprinter and now use them for modelling too, they're so cheap and sharp, the pair i've had now for well over a year and still work great. I use to treat cutters as expendable items but these seem to have stayed sharp the longest.

Either Tamiya thin or Mr's is fine, I use Tamiya as have done for years and never had any issues with it.

If you've saved some money with not buying a paint set then think about getting some decal setting solution like microscales set and sol.

I'd also recommend using companies like emodel, hannants, or a local hobbyshop. We have some great resources in the UK for scale modelling and often you'll find free shipping and cheaper stuff than on amazon at a lhs or an online reseller.

Edit, I should add, get a good hobby knife, Xacto or similar with replaceable blades. A set of fine needle files is useful as is either sanding foam, sanding sticks, sand paper of various grades.

u/MrMunchkin · 3 pointsr/techsupport

I'm surprised no one has mentioned WinPE... Go find a guide on how to create a bootable WinPE 3.0 image with all the tools. It's immensely useful for changing boot partitions (bcdboot.exe) and capturing images (imagex.exe).

Also snips/shears. Like these ones:http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1323835862&sr=8-8

u/Eisenstein · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

  • DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)

  • clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp

  • variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one

  • 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind

  • desolder braid

  • rosin flux

  • contact cleaner

  • (de-oxit d-5)[http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S6-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/]

  • flush cutters

  • solder sucker

  • shrink tube of various diameters

  • 92%+ isopropyl alcohol

  • windex

  • q-tips

  • paper towels

  • needle nose pliers

  • nice set of phillips head screwdrivers

  • standard screwdriver

  • miner's headlamp

  • digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly

  • printer for printing service manuals

  • heat gunor hair dryer

  • canned air


    EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.

    All I can think of right now.
u/wannabeemperor · 3 pointsr/Scalemodel

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI

Best side cutters money can buy, IMO. I used to work at a plastic injection molding company as a machine operator and these blue-handled Xuron cutters were the standard tool for cutting and trimming parts fresh out of the press.

u/iso12800 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah, I bought these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IBSFAI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work perfectly. It just takes a few seconds per switch. I'll clip the pins in a paper bag so they don't go flying when they're cut.

u/erleichda_archiving · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can now get flush cutters in blue too!

u/bobgengeskahn · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):

  • Small screwdriver set OR Hex set OR a combo set. Which one will depend on the RBA you get, but eventually you'll probably find yourself with ones that have Phillips and Hex screws.
  • Butane Torch. You can get this same one on Fasttech for $4 if you don't mind the shipping time.
  • Wire cutters, either full size or micros
  • Pliers, I also have a set of channel locks accessible, but not in my normal kit, mainly to try and get my Bombshell Stinger apart
  • A generic desk light or something like helping hands can save a lot of headaches.
  • Cheap multimeters can be found from $5 - $20
  • Exacto knife because knives always come in handy at some point (rule #9)

    Other generic stuff:

  • Toothpicks (great for wrapping coils around)
  • Cotton swabs, cotton balls and paper towels
  • Bic lighter
  • Scissors for cutting wick (I use the wire cutters, but if you have micros, 3mm wick might get messy/frayed)
u/HappyWulf · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

Here's a big fat messy shopping list I made for someone a while ago. You might find it useful too.

http://www.amazon.com/Quickshade-Ink-Warpaints-Army-Painter/dp/B00HC8D80W
Amazon.com: Quickshade Ink Set Warpaints Army Painter

http://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Technology-Zap-Zap-Adhesives/dp/B00SXJJ2QI
Amazon.com: Pacer Technology (Zap) Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1 oz

http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y
Amazon.com : General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. : Brush Soap

http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargame-Starter-Paint/dp/B01BJ55UDQ
Buy Army Painter Wargame Starter Paint Set - PLUS Promo Undead figure

http://www.amazon.com/280715-American-Accents-Primer-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LLZW?
Buy Rust Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, White Primer, 12-Ounce

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS?
TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece

http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3311-Precision-Knife-Blades/dp/B0000DD1N4?
Buy Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades

http://www.amazon.com/Most-Wanted-Wargamer-Set/dp/B007H4YR8S
Amazon.com: 1 X Most Wanted Wargamer Brush Set

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter: Wire Cutters

http://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Standard-2-Part-Hardening-Yellow/dp/B011BO9R5W
Amazon.com: 2 X Milliput Standard 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Yellow/Grey

Edit: Of, and I used this guide for making my Thinner. http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/15 But I'm going to experiment more, because this is not perfect.

u/gablebarber · 1 pointr/diytubes

You mean these?

http://imgur.com/gallery/Jmu5C

Those are some binding/terminal blocks I made awhile back for testing speakers/drivers, etc. I can plug in cables with banana plugs on them, and clip on to the terminals to test different drivers, etc.

There's some led tape/strip lighting under the top most shelf, and a clamp on adjustable led light with magnifying glass built in. I can swing it in when I need, and out of the way otherwise.

I think the magnifying lamp is this one: https://amzn.com/B00UW2IRJ2

The diagonal flush cutters are:
https://amzn.com/B000IBSFAI

and the small nose pliers are:
https://amzn.com/B0006N73BU

The little parts boxes are from a Bosch organizer:
https://amzn.com/B00BD5G6X6

There's cheaper options, but I had the organizer and extra bins so I used those.

Fire extinguisher is a Kidde ~3lb standard fire extinguisher. An absolute must imo.

The drawers are great, when I'm properly using them I can keep the desk clutter free.

Generally when I'm working on a project, if it's going to take longer than an hour or so, I put all the parts needed into bins, organize/label all the components. Then get started on the build. I have a small whiteboard to the left of the desk that I can pin up schematics, and take any quick notes while I'm cussing myself for forgetting something obvious.

u/fsckin · 1 pointr/RBA

Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter

Doubles as a hangnail remover in a pinch, and vaping toe jam sounds like a bad idea. :)

u/AnotherMadHatter · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

If you want the real deal, they are Xuron 170-II micro-shear flush cutters.

I use these as well as and the larger 2175 set for bigger things. Note - these are only good for soft metals (copper, tin, lead) not steel. My son was nice enough to make one pair a set of wire strippers when he tried to cut some steel wire once. :-(

u/Hikikomori_ · 1 pointr/Gunpla

You will need "side cutters".

Lots of us would recommend:

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381645308&sr=8-1&keywords=xuron+side+cutters

or

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381645308&sr=8-2&keywords=xuron+side+cutters

To start off with. Then you can upgrade, if you want to, to heavy duty cutters later on.

To the right on the subreddit, check the useful links for... useful links!

u/scientist_tz · 1 pointr/Warhammer

If you have a local hobby store you can get everything you need there.

If you have the internet you can get what you need on Amazon.

You have the internet.

Gluing plastic models. You want this stuff. It's the same stuff as Citadel plastic cement.

https://www.amazon.com/Testors-3509C-Plastic-Cement-Value/dp/B00JDMWVSU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481560583

That glue permanently welds plastic parts together. If you don't want a permanent bond then use CA glue or "superglue" that every hardware store has.

You'll also need sprue clippers:

https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1481560725

And a hobby knife, you mentioned x-acto so you know where to get that.

You are correct, it is cheaper not to buy these things from GW.

u/MoonManFour2Zero · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Looks like a solid start to me! I would recommend not fully assembling your models before you paint them, some places can be hard to reach when fully assembled.

  1. The army painter range of brushes is a solid starting point, I think they have a starter pack with a few essential brushes. Get a tub of brush cleaner and clean your brushes throughout your time painting, I like to clean them when I change colors. This will keep in good condition and extend their life!

  2. I like the GW plastic glue, it melts the pieces together for a strong connection! Super glue is also good and if you need to change a model up you can freeze them and they will snap apart.

  3. I like the GW brand primers, though they are expensive! I've used army painter before and had mixed results, some good some terrible.

  4. I do not have any experience with sealers.

    Necessary Hobby Items

u/Otto-Didact · 1 pointr/paracord

For cutting I use flush cutters, something like this.

I've found split ring pliers to be really useful for digging in there to get things really tight at the end. (I originally got them for actually attaching split rings (aka keyrings) and I actually really like these for making keyrings and attaching charms and such

I'm not sure how to help with the knots coming undone. Are you finishing the ends before you start? Your description of the problem there is a little unclear as I'm not sure if you're talking about the cord fraying (in which case always start with nice clean-melted ends), or if the knot itself is coming untied (a more technical issue that could just need adjustments to the way you hold it and how much initial tightening needs done).

u/bsmntdwlr · 1 pointr/Vaping101

Flush Cut Wire Cutters

Miniture Multi-drive Set

Battery Cases Never transport cells naked, especially near change/keys.

Also, I would highly suggest getting 9 batteries, I keep one set on the charger, one in the mod and one in the cases fully charged as a backup. I picked up those cases, specifically sol I could color code my battery sets, helps keep them together.

If you don't want to mess with building your own coils, I've recently started using these pre-built coils and I absolutely love em. I'd built a few claptons on my own, but frankly it was a lot more time than I wanted to mess with sometimes. They are pretty decent quality, they are all machine built so they are perfectly uniform and they make a quick coil change reletively painless.

u/mxzf · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Beyond the standard screwdrivers/metric allen wrenches/etc that you'd have for your job, there are a few things that are good to have on-hand. I'll give a bit of an overview of what I use regularly and consider pretty essential.

Calipers. When you want to make prints designed to real-life sizes (rather than just artistic models), calipers are almost essential. I've got some digital calipers that I got on amazon for $30-40 and I use them constantly.

Flush cutters. Little cutters like these are amazing for working with 3D printing. I use them to cut filament for a clean end to feed into the printer, to clean supports off of finished prints, cutting zip ties (which are sometimes used to hold 3D printer belts cleanly), little stuff like that. Get yourself a set for $5-10 and dedicate them to the printer; keep them reserved for soft-ish plastic to avoid killing the edge, use something else for cutting metal and thicker plastic.

Scraper. Many printers come with one, but you definitely want something like a fine-bladed putty knife or something similar. It's not uncommon to need to pry a bit to get a print off the print bed (depending on the bed surface), so having something to pry with is nice.

Thin tweezers. They don't have to be anything fancy, but tweezers are useful for grabbing little bits of plastic that came out wrong before they mess up the rest of the print or other little stuff like that.

There are a lot of other things which are useful to have on hand, but somewhat less essential. Here's some of what I have and use.

High-purity Isopropyl Alcohol and a clean cloth. I have a PEI print bed, which works great. I keep some 91% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle; every few prints I'll give the print bed a spray or two and wipe it down with a microfiber cloth. It does a great job of keeping the print bed clean and letting prints stick well (and PEI releases prints well once it cools down).

Scale. It's definitely not essential, but it's nice to have a small scale that can give weights in grams, since it'll let you know how much of your 1kg spool is remaining and lets you weigh things quick and easy.

Small flashlight. It doesn't need to be something fancy, but I keep a cheap little flashlight near my printer for when I need to look at some part or detail and it's in a weird spot or I don't want to turn on the big light.

Small blowtorch and/or heat gun. Great for making little stringy retraction issues shrivel up and go away, restoring the color of a section of print that turned white from removing supports (from plastic fatigue) and whatever else. I've got a little butane torch that works great for doing those sorts of things.

Dental mirror. Definitely not strictly necessary, but it can be handy for seeing up under your print head without spending a couple min moving it up to the top and bending your head at an awkward angle.

Sharpie marker. Being able to write on or label a print is handy. There'll be times when you're tuning the printer settings or something similar and want to make a note of what settings you used for that print that you're tweaking for other prints; Sharpies do the job well.

There are also a few consumables which are very handy to have on hand if you're making any kind of mechanical print or doing any printer mods.

Small machine screws, especially metric. I've got a couple boxes of M2-M5 machine screws and nuts in various lengths that I use for prints that need to be fixed together or for any printer mods that need to be mounted. A $10-20 assortment box on Amazon will last you a good while.

Zip ties, in an assortment of widths. They're just really useful for tying stuff together. You've probably got a bunch already laying around, but it's worth mentioning.

Superglue. It's great for gluing prints together; I keep some thin CA glue and also some gel CA glue on-hand for gluing prints together. Just don't get your fingers stuck.

I'm sure there's also other useful stuff that I'm forgetting that someone else will mention.

As to the humidity, it really depends on how humid your house actually gets. Given that you're in Florida, however, you probably want at least a bit of protection for your filament. I'd suggest getting some kind of airtight container and some rechargeable silica beads. Keep the filament in the dry container as much as possible and cook the water out of the beads as-needed and you should be fine without having to actively dry out the filament. Just keep an eye on it and tweak your setup if you're having issues due to wet filament.

u/UtahJarhead · 1 pointr/DnD

I've seen tiny cutters that allow you to cut flush with plastic. Cheap solution to that problem, I'd think.

u/Bobololo · 1 pointr/Nerf
  • Dremel 3000 (minimum) and metal cutting blades. Doesn't matter if you aren't cutting metal, they cut through plastic like butter. Why 3000? As much as the 200 is good for beginners, the 3000 is MUCH better with variable speed control.

  • Different sized screwdrivers. Not all screw ports are made the same.

  • For electronic mods- a soldering iron. Get yourself a Weller 25w one and a bunch of MT10 chisel tips to go with it.

  • Plastic Snipper thingies These may be a tad expensive, but mine last about a year each.

  • Disposable gloves (I like nitrile). I HATE having epoxy putty and epoxy on my hands. Disposable gloves are great for painting, epoxying, and everything else that gets your hands all dirtied up.



    If I think of any others, I'll add them, but that's a good start from me.
u/goodguydan · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Welcome to the hobby.

Let me make some tool/resource suggestions for you.

Resources:

Gunpla TV if you're just starting out in the hobby this should be your go to resource. www.hobbylink.tv/category/gunplatv

For your advanced tips and tutorials check out Hux's tutorial collection here. http://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/kzg5v/the_big_list_of_gunpla_tutorials_resources_100/

Tools:

These are the tools I use.

Side cutters

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320331584&sr=8-1

Sanding Pads (fine and extra fine)

http://www.amazon.com/3M-916DCNA-Contour-Surface-Sanding/dp/B00004Z49L/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1320331548&sr=1-2

X-acto knife

http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3601-Precision-Knife-Safety/dp/B00009R8JZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1320331502&sr=8-3

Painting:

If you're just stating out, hand brush and try rattle cans. Check out the tutorials for specifics.

u/utechnet · 1 pointr/networking

It's this tooless wiring cap type of jack, like this: the third picture. I installed a couple of them just this last summer and now they don't seem to be available pretty much everywhere anymore. I found that they are easier to get loose connections on than punch-down patch panels, but I believe I came up with a best practice for them. I suggest you re-terminate to your standard TIA-EIA 568 A or B and use a needle-nose pliers to really get the conductors firmly into their grooves in the connector with a gentle pull. Then after turning the twist part of the wiring cap making sure it is fully turned and cannot turn any more use a flush cutter to trim the excess wire extruding past the edges flush so it's less likely to have connectivity issues from physical contact.

u/Nerdcentric · 1 pointr/sysadmin

Another old guy tip -- use flush cutters (http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395328103&sr=8-1&keywords=flush+cutter) on your ties so you don't have all those sharp, shred your hands, edges.

u/Decker1138 · 1 pointr/Tools

Flush cutters. They're also the best for cutting the tail off zip ties and not leaving a sharp edge. I've used these for years.

Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v2PxDb635JSYY

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

THIRTY FLIPPING DOLLARS? Sweet Jayzus don't waste your money on that...

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408467855&sr=8-2&keywords=xuron+cutter

Remember, kids, GW exists solely on the dollars they overcharge for their products. If they have it, it probably exists at a third the price in any hobby shop anywhere in the world. Tools, paints, glues, all of it.

u/ty944 · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar

you can probably find the wire cutters at walmart too, I think I bought a pack that had a mix of pliers and other things with the clippers. These were recommended on some thread a while back.

Amazon Link

The exacto knife doesn't matter, you'll be using it to cut off excess sprue and scrape mold lines off so if its smaller that'd be best, maybe like pencil size. Mine has some ridges on the handle that doubles as a file too.

u/Rikoj · 0 pointsr/popping

personal fix is a pair of wire nippers like these https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
And some needle nose pliers to grab the then nipped nail and pull.