Reddit mentions: The best roofing materials

Wait hold on a sec you are not actually keeping them together are you? If you are you will have babies! But my guess is not...

You are right it's hormones... I can suggest a few thing below that may help in the short term.

Start with giving each a stuffed animal to take some frustration out on.



For flooring I highly suggest this indoor/outdoor rug - it is easy to clean, inexpensive, and due to a tight weave hard to chew. A lot of bunny parents on here use it and love it. :)

1. If they love to dig though don't deny them, provide a good alternative instead on top of the rug below in one spot - these seagrass mats - they are safe and awesome.
   
2. Giving toys and things that are actually meant for digging and chewing will prevent the carpet digging (as in more targeted toys) - try to provide a box full for shredded paper to dig like this in or a cat scratcher like this one or something like this.
   
   For moldings and baseboards:
   
   
3. you can try a spay in this video (it will not stain) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_QNPkPbqDk
   
4. you can also try this tape (but be very careful to be sure they do not chew it!) - I think it doesn't ruin paint, but try in one hidden spot to test.
   
5. You can also get some white colorplast, cut to size and attache along the baseboards with some command strips that do not damage pain and come of cleanly.
   
6. You can also use NIC storage cube grids to tie together with zip-ties and make a sort of barrier to place along the baseboards. This would work better for a room and particular spot, for a whole house I think colorplast strips are more elegant solution.
   
7. The last and most important point - bunnies are smart and they need toys to entertain them and stay out of trouble. In the absence of good things to chew they will chew the other things - chewing and digging is their natural instinct, so the solution is not to stop them, but to provide alternatives specifically meant for them to chew and dig and to reinforce them using it. Bunnies are very food-motivated so you can use food to train them to do what you want them to do. :)
   
   
   1. I will mention some things to buy and make for toy for your bun below - don't think you need to get everything - start with some basic things and rotate toys to keep him interested. But the most important thing is reinforcing and redirecting. Bunnies do really understand positive reinforcement and build positive associations when you redirect bad behavior and reward good behavior. So you have to actively and diligently train the bunny overtime not to chew and dig the wrong things. Anytime you see digging or chewing, immediately try to offer a toy or some alternative instead and reward with a small treat when it works. This does need to be done very diligently each time you see him do things like that.
      
      So what to give as toys?
      
      
8. Bunnies like exporting type toys - tunnels, cardboard houses, willow and hay balls, chews, and treat puzzles . The two thread below have examples:
   
   
   1. https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/an8cut/rabbit_room_ideas/
      
   2. https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/ajf2vl/how_to_enrich_my_rabbits_life/
      
9. Also a couple suggestions below that are my personal favorites and all buns tend to enjoy:
   
   
   1. Treat/pellets ball - feed pellets in it vs a bowl
      
   2. Nesting cups - hide little treat bits between stacked cups, I have not met a bun who doesn't love these
      
   3. Plastic slinky - most buns love these
      
   4. Play house
      
   5. Dig box
      
10. Also try homemade things - the best I found was an empty egg carton stuffed wit favorite greens for him to figure out how to open. :)
    
    
    1. Or something like this https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/be338f/diy_pellet_dispenser/
       
    2. Or a homemade castle like this person did https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/bcl9p4/cardboard_castle/ - she has instructions on how to make one, send her a message.
       
11. Chew toys specifically - there are what you need to get to offer as alternatives to him chewing furniture!
    
    
    1. Willow and hay balls are great - good quality ones here https://shop.smallpetselect.com/collections/natural-toys-and-chews-for-rabbits
       
    2. They also have these logs where you can hide treats and pellets for fun - the bun would love to chew those I think and they last too. :)
       
    3. Great quality toys that are super fragrant and yummy to chew here https://www.farmerdavepetsupply.com/toys
       
    4. And thicker good chew sticks here https://www.farmerdavepetsupply.com/chew-sticks
       
       _____________________
       
       Litter training:
       
       To begin two things are key - proper set up and knowing how to train/reinforce the habit of using the litter box. I assume you have the correct set up already to I'll move on to the second part.
       
       Some great advice in this thread https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/a53dzf/litter_training/
       
       The key is to reinforce diligently! Bunnies are very food motivated so use that to you advantage... Use positive reinforcement to build a clear association that using the litter box leads to good things. Remind her that a litter box is a good thing by giving a tiny treat every time you see her use it for a while - a treat can be a pellet, a small piece of favorite green, etc. If you are ever there and see her get ready to go (her tail kind of lifts up like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym7-BBY4ep4) scoop her up gently and put in the litter box. If you see her make one poop, as soon as you see it place her right in the box so the rest she does in there. Once she goes give that little treat as a reward. This reinforcement if done consistently over time will really help (though spaying is still a must). Place any poops you find back into her litter box together with the bunny to reinforce and if she pees outside use a napkin to blot it and again place back into the litter box
       
       Lastly be sure you clean the spot she pees outside her litter box each time wit white vinegar to remove the scent of her pee so that she doesn't keep coming back to the spot.

For the chimney, what the hell is the inspector talking about when he says the chase need "prep and recoat"? I've never heard anyone in this profession say anything like that, unless he's talking about the crown. If that's the case, you could apply Crown Coat to it, the company technically doesn't sell their products to the general public because they'll always recommend a professional to do the work, but it looks like somebody is selling it on Amazon. It's pretty easy to apply, just pretty much paint a couple coats of it over the top of the crown, and it's cured in about 2-4 hours, plus there's directions on the bucket.

For the flashing, I also recommend another one of ChimneySaver's products, Flash Seal. It's another fantastic product and works great. Just put that flashing back against the roof and apply the seal as directed.

The relining of the flue is something I will absolutely insist you hire a professional to do, you are literally playing with fire here, not to mention inside your home. Contact a reputable CSIA certified chimney sweep to get an estimate on getting that properly relined. I don't know what the companies in your area do for relining, as there are several ways to do it. My company only does it one way since it's the only method that has been proven to us to be completely reliable without breaking up quickly or being an overall shitty job, and that is with a stainless steel liner, so try to find a good company that will do that.

For the rain cap, there are also several approaches to do that. If you get the stainless steel liner like I recommend, they will probably have to break out your old damper to access inside your smoke chamber to parge it and seal around the bottom of your new liner, so what they should do there is apply a top-mount damper, which basically works like this, so it kills 2 birds with one stone, plus the flue is sealed air-tight when it's not in use with these, as it has a silicone gasket seal. If not the damper, you could either get a cap that covers that lone flue, or else one that will cover the whole chimney chase, depending on if you have more flues on that chimney or not, and your personal taste. I will recommend getting stainless steel ones no matter what though.

That should be everything for the chimney, unless you REALLY trust these sellers, I'd recommend getting credited for the work, as they'll probably have someone half-ass it for as cheaply as possible, and that's one thing you do NOT want to half-ass.

This all depends on how much work you want to do, how you are with basic electrical connections and how much you want to spend up front vs how much you'd rather spend in electricity. Not that I've looked into this in any way.....

If you just hook up a standard gable fan like this it will run well enough and probably cool your shed a fair amount. You can also include a thermister like this which will give it a high and low threshold for operation. These can get pretty noisy though and if you leave it running all the time you'll probably see it on your bill.

For a bit more up front you can go with a full solar gable fan. Some models also allow connection to your 120v system so you can run them at night or during low sun conditions. These are great for situations like yours (or like my detached garage) where there isn't electrical yet or where you don't necessarily want to pay to have a fan run 10+ hours a day.

Vehicles run on the same output as solar panels (for the sake of this discussion) so you could easily cobble something together for less than $100 that would push as much air as one of those larger gable fans but also charge your cordless batteries, run low voltage lights, etc. You can also DIY a solar kit. I can get into the product details if you want, but overall you'd need:

• solar panel
  
• charge controller
  
• low voltage wiring
  
• speed/temp controller
  
• 12v DC fan like this one.
  
  If the fan is too noisy or moving too much air (in extreme cases, depressurization can be an issue) you can control fan speed with something like this and I'm sure there are 12v temp controllers as well.

I have a sound problem I need to fix.

I live in an older rental house with single pane windows and no rain gutters, and there's a valley in the roof right above my bedroom window. When it rains at night, half the roof drains off in a single heavy stream onto the concrete driveway three feet from my head. It sounds like someone is up there with a garden hose on full blast. A lot like this.

I'm a heavy sleeper, and the noise last night was enough to wake me up and keep me that way for long time. I resorted to putting a pumpkin in the stream hoping it might break it up at about 3 a.m. last night. It didn't really help.

I rent the house, so I'm not in a position to install a gutter system. I asked the landlord for permission to install a rain diverter, but I'd like a quick - if less permanent solution - to save my sanity in the meantime.

I'm thinking of building a ramp of sorts, so the water lands on an angled surface rather than onto the flat concrete, kinda like this. My main concern is that the panel the water lands on will effectively be a drum, amplifying the sound rather than reducing it.

Any ideas on something to smooth the water's transition between free fall and concrete driveway that doesn't create additional sound?

https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Components-389381-White-Siphon/dp/B01CZQ9Y6M/

That will create suction on the end of the hose if it's in the wind. Ideally, on the roof. I suppose you could try mounting it under the floor, reversed. No idea if that will help.

Otherwise you may have to do something to upgrade your fan situation. The tiny computer fan that's in there just can't compete with the other pressures. A 12 cm fan with higher capacity might be able to do the job but fitting it onto the hose would take some fabrication work.

You'll just have to keep your windows closed when you drive so the pressure in the van isn't dramatically lower than it is outside.

Other people have had this same issue when they have all their other ventilation closed, and turn their Maxxair or Fantastic fan to warp speed. The huge fan and all those cubic feet per minute of air just completely overwhelm the tiny little fan in the toilet and it doesn't have a prayer of keeping the air flowing the right way.

Not pictured, some weather stripping foam under the plywood in hopes of damping some vibration. Also I forgot to take pictures of wiring into the outlet in the crawl space.

The fan is a CX1500 "Cool Attic Power Gable Ventilator Fan"

The tools/materials I ended up needing:

• 1 10mm wrench
  
• 1 11mm wrench (Used for mounting the brackets)
  
• Drill
  
• Jigsaw
  
• Screws
  
• Hammer
  
• Nails
  
• Sealant (since its not an automatically closing one I sprayed some sealant on the wood to protect it)
  
• SOG Multi Tool
  
• The fan itself
  
• 24" square 3/8ths plywood (could have been a bit more in the vertical really)
  
• Wire to tie into the home power supply.
  
• Wire nuts.
  
• Weather stipping, self adhesive.
  
  I prepared the plywood first using the fan to draw a guide for the jigsaw. Drilled out a starter hole and followed the line with the saw. Also learned that I am bad at following lines.
  
  I had the 2x4 cut into 2' sections at Lowe's to save me some effort.
  
  Up in the crawl space/attic I nailed the 2x4 sections up, nothing special there and sprayed some sealant I had around. I also filled in some gaps in the gable vent (not pictured) with some foam backer rod I had extra of.
  
  Next went up the plywood with the cutout, I attached that with screws using the drill, much easier than swinging a hammer around up there. In hindsight, I should have picked up some longer screws and done the 2x4s with that too.
  
  Brought up the fan, mounted the brackets and mounted it to the plywood with screws. Had to bend it back a bit and adjust because there isn't a terribly large amount of clearance between the blades and the mounting bolts. If you buy one of these take note of that.
  
  I screwed the thermostat box to the brace in the path of the fan, wired in one end of the electrical cable following the instructions in the box - very straight forward. The load on the fan is fairly low, you can get away with 14-2.
  
  With everything else done, I killed the power and opened up the outlet up in the crawl space just across from the air conditioner blower. Didn't take any pictures of that, but basically just tied it into the black, white and ground wires from the house and closed up the outlet box. I removed the outlet to do it because I've never used it, nor have service techs. They just run an extension cord from in the house.
  
  Brought up the power and the fan worked. All in all if I take out the stop for breakfast, probably took me 2 hours. Hopefully it helps bring down the temps up there and make my summer bills a bit better.
  
  
  Edit - that thing I'm wearing in the picture is a Frogg Togg Chilly Dana, bandana. Really did help keep me cooler and acted as a sweatband.
  
  

Plastic mesh designed to protect gutters from leaves and make them easier to keep clean. You can buy it in rolls on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Frost-VX620-Black-Plastic-Gutter/dp/B0044UKUFC) I had it around because I used to breed caterpillars for a pet frog, and it's great for increasing the surface area of their tank for climbing. Also great for hermit crabs!

I used butyl tape on my Pontiac Vibe and it worked really well for soundproofing (two layers on the doors, one layer in the hatch area). Similar to this but the stuff I bought at home depot was about 2 feet wide instead of 4 inches. A lot of automotive sound deadening stuff is basically this stuff with a markup. It's flexible and sticks pretty well, but you might want to use additional spray adhesive if you're doing your ceiling. It looks like you already have soundproofing material on your floor?

For my project, I plan on putting butyl tape on the metal, then foam board on top, then plywood. Haven't decided yet between EPS or XPS foam board (EPS is vapor permeable and XPS is not) but they're both moisture resistant with the tradeoff of lower R-value over other options, like fiberglass batting (degrades with moisture) or polyisocyanurate (useless under 50F)

I have not replaced the rubber on my roof but I have worked on it in the past. It sounds like your roof is an EPDM roof. Which, as you have seen, is made by putting a complete piece of rubber over the roof and then sealing it to the roof.

EPDM rebuild kits are available. Essentialy you have to clean up and prep the area that needs replacement, then put the new piece of EPDM in place. The edges that would overlap flat on the roof could be sealed with a combination of eternabond and dicor. The part of the roof that goes around the edge of the camper might need some more thought. Mine is rolled and has gutters along with downspouts along the edge. In my estimation that would be the hard part. Sealing the roof where it meets the body of the camper.

I am pretty sure it can be done if you are handy and take your time to properly prep at each step. (I learned that this summer when I redid my roof).

I have only used something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AZ46O0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0047WL9SE&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0E529687JA0SCSWFXAC9 to repair the top of the boot. These were super easy to install and have been working great for the past +10 tears

I think this would be perfect. Easy to customize and pretty cheap.

GutterStuff EZ 5-Inch K Style Foam Gutter Filter Insert, 32-Feet

http://www.amazon.com/GutterStuff-5-Inch-Gutter-Filter-32-Feet/dp/B003H9LXJ8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=08D83JGQVG688DMFZSKK

Found a little plastic gutter scoop in the barn left by the previous owner. Works a treat. Climb up on the roof scoop out with the little plastic jobber, get the hose up there and spray em out.

Following that a little soap and some carnauba wax.

Ok just kidding about that last bit. But seriously that gutter scoop is pretty sweet.

Ah heres a link. Wouldn't you know it the proper name is indeed gutter scoop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002CSVA6Q/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

I definitely recommend covers as well. I've had plenty of rainy stuffy days where I couldn't open a window and was glad to have vent covers. Raises your roof line a bit though(broke one on a tree once). Really easy to install a replacement if it happens. Only cost about $20 each and don't require any sealing, they hover just above the roof.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Cleaning-Aerodynamic-Included-40431/dp/B000BUQODG

Unfortunately, from all the threads I've read on here about gutter guards, none of them really work all that great and you'll end up cleaning them anyway. That being said, people are always trying to reinvent the wheel. I'd go check out neighbors houses and see if anyone else is using them then talk to them about how well they work.

These look promising. Lots of Q&A and people seem pleased as these are a copy from a more expensive item https://www.amazon.com/LeafsOut-Gutter-Install-yourself-Protection/dp/B004IG3IOC

In addition, I saw a post somewhere on Reddit, where a guy used pvc to extend his leaf blower putting an ell on the end and blew out his gutters from the ground.

It depends on a lot of things so try and get some pictures of the leaky area when you get up there. But it shouldn't be that hard. Use a scraper and get off all the more caked up and loose coating removed. Then apply Henry's elasotmeric:

http://www.amazon.com/280DC-White-Elastomeric-Roof-Coating/dp/B00GMMQXUQ

That's a five gallon bucket which is probably enough to coat an entire single-wide mobile home roof. You probably don't need that much. It comes in one gallon and maybe even in quarts.


You just paint it on with a brush. Don't apply it in super cold weather or it won't dry right.

Get some pics and I can give you a better idea of what it is you need to do.

Also you can post on /r/DIY (do it yourself) They are very helpful there. They will want to see some pic to.

This is really nice looking.

I know you used treated wood, but it will get wet and swell with any moisture. I'd suggest pulling that axle and putting a really good enamel paint down on the underside.

Also, people are asking about cross venting for heat. Why not put a couple of these on the sides? http://www.amazon.com/Maurice-Franklin-Louver-2-5-Aluminum-Louver/dp/B00AFESMDS/?ie=UTF8&qid=1408463010&sr=8-6&keywords=eave+vent+covers

You could easily add a 12v solar cell just wire it directly to two 3" computer fans (one on either side). Have a couple lower ones on her side and then a couple upper ones in the back with the fans.

These would install quickly and not damage your aesthetic.

First thing I would do is make sure your gutters are doing their job. It's also the easiest thing to do. Get some downspout extensions from the hardware store, they look like this: http://www.amazon.com/Flex-Drain-85011-Downspout-Extension-Green/dp/B000V26D44

Attach one to each downspout to get the water well away from the foundation. Then walk around your house while it's raining and look at the gutters. If some are getting a ton of water, attach more extensions, until that water is well away from your foundation.

I had this problem when I moved in, did the waterproofing thing, and then later found out that the entire north half of the roof drained to one downspout that was absolutely pouring water onto the foundation. Guess where the problem was. Extensions might've fixed it entirely.

Good.

I put up 200 feet of these almost 4 years ago now. You still have to clean crap off them, but for me it went from a 4-6 times a year, to taking the leaf blower onto the roof (which I have to do anyway) once a year.

I'm very happy with them

Most are a standard size. You can safely buy one from Amazon...

Replacement vent

And this is what I put over my vent:

Vent cover

You don't have to worry about rain getting in, and theoretically, you can drive with the vent open.

Have you been in the attic to see where its coming from?

Might be from a roof vent that is leaking. Most will last about the life of the roof but could have been damaged during install, squirrels, etc...
Very easy fix with something like these...

https://smile.amazon.com/Vent-Seal-Plus-Skirt/dp/B004LDYILO
https://smile.amazon.com/Oatey-Rain-Collar-No-Calk-Flashings/dp/B001AZ46O0
https://smile.amazon.com/PermaBoot-5531-3-Inch-Repair-Black/dp/B0047WL9SE



Take some pictures and post.

I have a yard with 3 maple trees raining helicopters onto a ranch style house. I've used these for 3 years now and they've really helped. Cheap and easy to install. Frost King VX620 6"x20' Plastic Gutter Guard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNNS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-aCOybREPN173

You do know that vent covers are like $20 and would easily fix your problem?

I used this for a similar setup. Maybe it will work for you too

Dryer Vent Tite Fit, 90 Degree 18" to 30" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKKGJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_iGQNfuudYJhBI

On top of speakers (can barely see it):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VRR92F/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Behind speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1536369076&sr=1-1&keywords=scat

Draped over speaker so he doesn't stand on speaker and bat the blinds over and over and over:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Training-Medium-inches/dp/B0009MZ1L2/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1536369124&sr=1-9&keywords=shock+mat

My only recommendation at this point would be to get some of these.

http://i.imgur.com/1lJvL.jpg

Adjustable slide vent... I've been in those situation

Home depot; menards carry 3"-4" reducers

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B000KKKGJ0/ref=aw_d_crstars_miscellaneous

Just as a note to the gutter thing: I got gutter guards. Those screens you put on top. SOOOOOO CLUTCH. no big leaves and stuff. You still have to take a look at your gutters everynow and then, but much much much less.