Reddit mentions: The best rope lights

I’m cross posting this from the vinyl sub. I thought you folks would be interested.

To;dr: I spent a whole bunch of time putting together some custom lights for my setup. If you want to know more, read on. If you want to see the pretty pictures, click the links. Here’s one that shows the setup from the back of the room, and here is one from the front.

Intro

Some of you might recallmy last post. Well, I have finally found the light (forgive the bad dad jokes) at the end of the tunnel.

I took me basically the entire summer and a bit of the fall to get my system back up and running. Thankfully I have a old ‘65 Maggie in my living room that I spin from time to time when I’m desiring nostalgia. It took me as long as it did because I have a pretty busy life, but also because like Billy Joel, I go to extremes.

Like I said in my last post, I decided to replace all of my kallax because they apparently discontinued the natural color. I decided to go with a 3x4 and two 4x4s so my collection would have some room to grow. Since everything was boxed up, I also decided it would be a good time to wire in lights and stoppers.

Selection

I started to look at rope lights, but ultimately decided against them for a few reasons. First, I bought some, tested them, left them on for a while and felt that they were just putting off too much heat. Second, I really wanted them in the front, illuminating from above, and I didn’t just want to string them across the entire front. I like to put new records, favorite records or records I want to remember to listen to in front of the others for display. That and album artwork is fucking awesome. I quickly decided I wanted something to come from the back of the cabinet inside each cubby to just light up that top lip. I looked a bit, but wasn’t really finding exactly what I was looking for, so I figured out that I would probably be doing it on my own.

It was about this time that I decided that if I was going to put time into this, I may as well go for smart lights (Alexa already controls most everything in my house) and I may as well do color (that also reacts to the music, does strobes...). Because, well, it kind of matches the inherent extravagance of records collection itself.

I ended up going with these lights. .

Issues / Creating

Honestly, there’s a shit ton of variations for these lights, but they’re all probably made in the same shop, so I recommend buying one and testing it out. One thing I’ve learned after spending a decent amount of time with smart home stuff is that sometimes people in reviews have no idea what they’re talking about. “Didn’t work at all” or couldn’t get it to connect usually means “I know nothing about WiFi and therefore didn’t know that most of this stuff won’t run on a 5ghz channel, and my network isn’t set up so it will connect to 2.4. That is all to say that I noticed a number of bad reviews, bought them anyway (knowing Amazons return policy) and had absolutely no problem.

So, my plan was to use the junctions, clips and wires to build harnesses that would run all the power on the back of the kallax, with a wired clip running to the location that I wanted each light, and the remaining lights on the sides of of the stereo equipment, and then across the tops illuminating the box sets and legos.

Here’s where pain in the ass #1 comes in. The clips work well with the strips and the junctions, but they don’t connect directly to the wires. This was especially awesome because the wire that I bought fucking came with clips. Oh well. What that means is soldering, and a ridiculous amount of it.

I don’t mind soldering. In fact I find it therapeutic. However, this is 42 strips that each connect to at least one junction, in addition to jumpers between sections so they could all be controlled by two WiFi controllers. Next, the connections are all really small, and there are four of them for every single one. All in all, I believe that it ends up around 400 soldered connections.

So, one strip accepts the power from the controller. At the end of that strip is a clip with wires soldered. At the end of those wires is either a four way junction with wires either going to another strip, or to another junction that powers two more strips. That would do one vertical section of the kallax. One of the strips that is powered from that would have another clip and wire connected to the other end that jumped to another vertical section. Heres a photo showing a section being built and strips being powered at different sections.

To create each individual strip, the roll can be cut at certain points, and the rubber coating can be peeled and cut so it can be inserted into the clips. It’s obvious where to cut because there is a metallic connection with a dotted line through it. Every so often there is on that, rather than the copper connection, it’s a soldered and sealed connection. That can be cut and stripped like the others, but you’ll need to invest in a cheap solder sucker or wick to desolder that point or it won’t fit into the clips. I planned on doing this tutorial when I started to work on the project, and tried to remember to take pictures to illustrate. For some reason, this was the only one I took of a clip being soldered to a wire, and it’s the shittiest job, I’ve ever seen, so I’m going to assume it was done at the end of a session where many connections were created, and many beers were consumed.

Tips

I thought I would try to make this as a DIY thing, but it’s also soldering, which is more of a DIY after you practice sort of thing. That being said, it is something that anyone can do with the right patience, tools and a couple of hints.

Tip #1. Constantly test everything. If you test every connection immediately after making it, you can address your mistakes immediately. If you wait until you do a whole bunch, you end up having no idea what’s causing the problem.

Tip #2. Tin everything. This is the first thing you learn when learning to solder. Basically, this means you apply solder to both thing you want to join before you join them. This is me tinning a junction and some wires before connecting them.

Tip #3. Tape everything that you can. Whenever you solder things you want to make a physical connection (wrap the wire around what you’re soldering to). You can’t really do that here, so the tape helps in making the connections a little stronger. In the case of the junctions, the tape also insulates. The voltage is pretty minimal, but you still need to cover that up.

Installation

The strips have a self adhesive backing. which actually works pretty well. The wires running along the inside I decided to just use electrical tape. This has proven to have some mixed results, especially in the fronts where I was covering the white clips. I may eventually use them more like straps, stapling the ends.

Pain in the ass #2 - the clips pretty much just suck in general. I’ve run into a number of situations where the contacts aren’t holding against the strips tight enough, and they flake out a bit. This causes a bit of tinkering from time to time. Also, the space where the connection is made is pretty small, so a small shift and you lose one (blue being on one end).

This brings me to the big thing I would have done differently. I would have skipped the clips entirely and soldered the wires directly to the strips. I was avoiding doing this because I thought that I could run into situations where a strip would eventually go bad, and this would make it so I could switch it out. I think now that headache would have been minimal compared to the headache of setting them all up.

All in all, I’m pretty happy with it. I don’t use the color functions too often, but I have turned it to the sound reaction setting, and it’s pretty cool. I just need to get the remaining pictures and art on the wall and my basement will be ready to go (until I get around to finishing the bedroom and bathroom stubbed in the unfinished portion).

Thanks for reading if you made it this far. Hope it’s helpful for someone. I’ll be glad to fill in any details that you’re curious about.

Sorry for responding so late. Here's an album with the bottom of the board.

.

Here's a list of all the items I used:

LED 6.5 ft strip ($17)

10000 mAh external battery ($15)

Gorilla Super Glue ($6)

Scotch Extreme Double Sided Mounting Tape ($7)

.

Some notes:

The LED lights come with a peel and stick bottom, however they will fall off eventually with extensive riding, which is what the gorilla glue is for.

LED lights also change colors!

Double sided tape is for the battery pack. After extensive riding (like 2 months of night time riding), the tape did eventually start to peel off, but it might also be because of the weird shape of the battery pack I bought. Might be better to get a flatter one than the one I got to get more contact on the board. Or mount it with something more permanent.

With the LED strips, it's important not to bend the strips against their natural shape. I bought a 6.5 ft strip, which is long, because I wanted the extra brightness for my board. So to help solve the bending issue, I curved them around to help keep their natural shape as best as possible. You could cut the strips (they are trimmable) and solder them together instead of doing the hokey curve I did. But I'm too lazy.

The battery pack is awesome. I've had it for almost 2 months and still haven't charged it. Make sure when you buy an LED strip that it's powered by USB. Battery packs WILL NOT work. Sidewalks, rough roads, big cracks will make the batteries fall out. You need a power brick.
Make sure the USB stays snug in the battery pack, rough roads were making it pop out of the USB port, so to combat this, I made the USB cable as straight as possible and taped it down close to the connector, so it has to stay straight.
You'll notice that I used the double sided tape as extra for the curved sections of the LED, you could use something else, but I had some to spare so I used it. Stuff is pretty strong. Duct Tape is surprisingly not as good.

Tape off extra straggling wires, or glue them, or do something else. I'm not going to tell you how to live your life.


Do not ride over puddles. The LED lights and battery pack are water proof, but water can make the glue and tape come off.

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TL;DR

Super glue LED strips to board

Tape battery and loose parts to board

Don't bend LED strips

Water bad

I wanted to build a standing desk, but with a custom look. I went with the popular IKEA Karlby counter top for the surface and trimmed it a few inches (Home Depot) due to landlord (wife) requirements. For the legs I chose the iMovr Freedom standing leg base - for me that was the best combination of good reviews and reasonable cost. I made a number of trips to a local woodworking store to learn about what type of sealant to use, etc. The highlight of the desk was incorporating a hidden wireless phone charger which I’m very proud of.

More details below:

• DIY I followed for the hidden wireless phone charger
  
• Tools used: Router for drilling out wood for wireless charger, regular drill for drilling legs into the desk and screwdriver for tightening various screws.
  
• The whole build took me about a month - much of that was spent waiting for parts, etc. Actual working time was probably 24-30 hours I would say.
  
• I sanded the surface down a bit as it initially came slightly rough, and then sealed it with a Minwax protective finish to seal the wood.
  
• The iMovr desk base allows raising and lowering the surface with 2 buttons, and also allows presets to be programmed in.
  
• I used the Nexlux Led Light Strip for the lighting
  
  Happy to share more details. If you have any questions, just DM me!

If you want to do a liquor cabinet, here's how I would do it.

Find a place around you that will either:

1. Supply and cut larger thickness glass (sheet glass from Lowes is only 3/32)
   
2. Supply premeasured tempered glass.
   
   Tempered glass could run you a few hundred for 2 shelves, but will be safer. If you are really lucky, do a search on Ikea.com or other similar sites that sell furniture, and you may find some tempered shelves that may fit. You want them to fit inside your firebox there.
   
   Next, the brick is really cool and you should show it off. Remove all the fake stuff, and if the underlying brick is painted white, I'd take a steel brush attachment for a drill to it, and distress it, then paint it with a high gloss to really show it off and protect it.
   
   Run a new switch somewhere nearby. Run a line from it to the interior of the firebox. If you have access from above, that will be easiest(drop it down the existing vent), or see if you can come from below. Hide this new wire if you must, with a false back in the firebox. Wire this line to some led pucks or color change led strip if you like.
   http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%AE-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=pd_cp_MI_0
   
   Next, drill holes for pegs for your shelves. Insert your glass shelves. Looks like this space could handle 2 of them. Make sure you put some masonry adhesive in the holes with the pegs, because under weight, they may break down the old brick.
   
   If you want more storage, you could add any type of floating shelves to the exterior. A wrap around type might look nice on the corners. Just remember if you want them to support any kind of weight, IE liquor bottles, you better use some beefy anchor sleeves to screw them to the brick. Something like this:
   http://www.lowes.com/pd_17671-10457-7721_4294690613__?productId=3444570&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
   I don't like risking weight on normal Tapcon screws when you can use an anchor sleeve.
   
   I may be grossly underestimating how low this thing is though. Is it even going to be comfortable to use as a liquor cabinet at it's current height?

Yeah, absolutely, here's what I send to people who ask:

LED: CHINLY WS2812B 5v (300 LED count) I bought a couple of brands for experimenting, and these are by far the brightest and more reliable LED's that I found. Powering them is trickier because they're double density; 300 led's per 5 meter instead of 150 per 5 meter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNJSKXN/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Controller: Advatek Pixlite 16 MK2, This was the more expensive one. I bought it because I wanted NO limitations. It can control approximately 16,000 LED's plus 4 DMX universes. It works like a charm. There is a cheaper one called the PixLite 4.

http://www.advateklights.com/pixlite-control/



Software: LightJams There is definitely a learning curve with this program, but it was the best that I found to do what I wanted. It can control any type of fixture, and is a very good price. I chose it because it can send ArtNet signals and sACN. This was important to me because I want to use the DMX universes, but the PixLite Controller cannot use the DMX outputs with ArtNet. All other software only uses ArtNet, but I needed sACN support so I can use both LED's + DMX. You can download the trial and use the trial to design all your setup and then buy a license (or rent a license for cheap!) when you're ready. There is a Google group where the developer will answer any questions. He is very helpful.

http://www.lightjams.com/ https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/lightjams





I was able to build 4 x light poles on PVC (3 rows of 87 LEDs for a total of 1,044 LEDs), with 3 power supplies, PixLite controller, software license, wires/cables for less than $800USD. I can continue adding more poles as I wish. Each pole costs about $60USD to make not including the controller or software.

Alright, I’ll do my best to explain what I did. First off, material list:

4 x WS2811 5m 30LEDS/m addressable LED strip 12V in IP67 waterproof tube
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01CNL6EG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 x 12V 30A DC power supply
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EWG6YT8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 x Magic LED Bluetooth controller
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LW1J10W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 x Sound activated controller
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0792T73VB/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10m (cut in half to get 20m) of Gorilla Mounting Tape Clear (link is for black, but I bought clear)
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/gorilla-glue-mounting-tape-black-0671081p.html#srp

14 gauge wire
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/southwire-30-metre-in-wall-speaker-wire-yellow-14-2-0529814p.html#srp

18 gauge wire (brown thermostat wire)
Can’t find a link, but I had it in my garage from another project

There is a strip that holds the soffit in place on the far side from the house that was a perfect channel for the LED strip. You can buy white aluminium channels for LED strips with nice frost glazing that diffuses the light. I would have bought them, but soffit and house trim are all brown and I could not find it in brown. I cleaned the surface of the house, then suck the tape to the strip and ran a knife down the side to cut it in half. I then attached it all to the house. 20m fit perfectly around the lower level trim on my house.

I have built-in shelves all around the inside of my garage. So I put the power supply on an upper shelf near the centre of the strips. I picked 12V strips over 5V strips to minimize voltage drops. There are numerous online voltage drop calculators, I used this one:

https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html

My electrical engineering friends tell me I need to size the wire for no more than a 3% voltage drop. That might be a bit overkill for low-voltage LED lights, but that’s what is in the CEC for building wiring. I ended up using 14-gauge wire and ran power to each strip. It worked out to be a bit more than a 3% loss. I used the brown thermostat wire to tee off the main line indoors and ran it through the wall to power the strips. Each connection was done using crimp-style splice connectors that I had left-over from wiring a stereo in my boat.

On the far end I mounted the Magic LED Bluetooth controller (inside) and ran an extra run of the thermostat wire for the data signal. The controller worked great once I put in the right settings. I also set the wiring up so I can connect the sound activated controller outside. On Halloween I plan on setting up some singing pumpkins and have the lights dance to the music.

I hope this helps and good luck with your project. A key thing to keep in mind is you need to run power to each strip, otherwise, you will have too much line-loss, generate lots of heat, and the colours will be different on the far end. It can, and should, come from the same power supply, but just run additional power lines out to each strip.

1. My favorite thing about winter is watching my dogs bound through the snow and play with such innocent joy. This is my oldest playing in the snow.
   
   
2. For decorations, I will include an album of my house last year. This year my father and I are having a lighting competition and I really want to make a bunch of the shooting stars that are in the picture with the deer. They are easy to make and look awesome.
   
   
3. Jingle.
   
   If I win I would love just one of the rope lights on my list. They are $16 a pop and it takes one set plus an expensive 2-5 LED light strands to make just one...

So I have an off the wall suggestion. Try picking up a strip of led lights for extra FX.

LE 12V Flexible RGB LED Light Strip Kit, Color Changing, 150 Units 5050 LEDs, Non-Waterproof , Remote Controller and Power Adaptor Included, LED Tape, Pack of 16.4ft/5m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWBZW0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9aMozbC8F4DWH


I just bought these for making a custom ring* light and they're super bright and you can position them in very custom ways. These ones are also by no means the only brand out there, just look it up, but for the price point I guarantee you'll get a few cool ideas from using them. Could maybe do some indoor stuff you didn't consider before.


Other than that, I'd just try to up your game staging wise. What you're doing now is awesome (I followed on ig ) but I think you're looking for a way to break out from that, and the best way to do that is to think outside of your comfort zone.

What's the most intimidating idea you have had? Do that.

Not OP, but have done some vehicle/trailer lighting/wiring before.

​

Working with 12V DC is relatively safe, just make sure not to short the ends. You can, of course, disconnect the battery if you're worried about it (if you're not worried about it, just leave the outside light switch off or find the fuse that goes to it and flip it off). I've wired up a good bit of stuff in 12VDC with it live and haven't ever been shocked, though that's not to say there isn't risk. At a minimum I'd recommend shutting off the light switch.

​

You should be able to use something like these here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SXGS94/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

but those aren't the *greatest* at staying put on, so you may try something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/WenTop-Waterproof-Flexible-Lighting-Bathroom/dp/B01GJ3O0J8/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=12v+led+strip&qid=1554391819&s=gateway&sr=8-7

​

What you're looking for are 12V LED Light strips.

​

I'd recommend getting some waterproof, and adhesion would be my main concern as I'm driving down the highway, I wouldn't want them blowing off.

FAQ from previous post:

No input lag, everything is the same as when the desktops were on the desk.

I used 50ft hdmi cables running through conduit i installed in the walls for video, my older monitors required an hdmi booster: http://www.frys.com/product/6926477?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

I ran long usb active extension cables to each station and added a powered usb hub here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006KSLF6E/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JEOWV14/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the LED lights, make sure to buy double sided tape because the sticky backing is worthless on them, but still worth it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ASHQQKI/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Price breakdown, purchased most everything over the course of 5 years:

My battle station: 2500
My wifes: 1000
The server: 2000
The rack and accessories: 400
Cables, mounts, LED's, UPS's, etc: 1000
PVC: 100
The TV: 550
Soundbar: 100
My surround monitors: 250/ea
My ultrawide monitor: 450
My wifes monitors: 150/ea
Electrician: 150-200
HTPC's: 500 each
Switch: 100
Router: 100
HDHomeRun: 100ish
Dozens of hours to set it up: priceless

Here are the server cases i used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GCOY3M/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Everything is split across 3 810w UPS's, each is at about 25% load. I tested them recently and i can get around half an hour of backup power to all of the electronics in the house, included the TV's.

If you have any questions feel free to ask, it was an exceptionally fun project and the results were perfect. I was pleasantly surprised how well everything works after it all turned on the first time.

The battery should have a high amp-hour rating. Basically a 100 amp hour battery will supply a 1 amp load for 100 hours OR it will supply 100 amps for 1 hour.

Figure out the continuous power draw from your light system [for instance if the LEDs draw 10 amps at 12 volts, a 100 amp hour battery will last 10 hours at that load]. LEDs are pretty efficient you might get more life than in my example.

Next you will want a 12 volt LED controller that you will need to wire the + & - terminals of the battery to. What needs to be considered here is the fact that car batteries actually put out about 14 volts when fully charged. Now, 2 volts may not make a big difference but you want to make sure the LED controller will be happy with an extra 2 volts going through it. My guess is that you will be fine but just an FYI.

This controller: http://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-TT-SL204-Activated-Controller-Plug-And-Play/dp/B008BD4734/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1395765292&sr=8-5&keywords=led+controller accepts a 12V power input, is sound activated, comes with a color remote and you can wire two 5050 LED strips directly into it.

Here is an example of the LEDs that work with this controller: http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-TM-Waterproof-Epoxy-Strip/dp/B0085IXEYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395765867&sr=8-1&keywords=5050+LED+strips

The rest is up to creativity!

I did a little digging and found these they are full RBG and WiFi enabled i didn't initially set out for RBG lights but i decided last minute to get them and i don't regret it. not that the "16.4 million colors" aren't great but i more prefer it for the subtle different types of white i can have (warmer, cooler, ect.)

highly recommended as well because customer service was great. nothing was wrong with mine and i didn't even contact them. they sent me a nice little follow-up email making sure everything was ok.

Yes one min,

Edit: SUPERNIGHT 5-Meter Waterproof Flexible Color Changing RGB SMD5050 300 LEDs Light Strip Kit with 44 Key Remote and 12V 5A Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_CWqUYBpXlQQYQ

This one is great and cheap the remote and hues are awesome and it's really bright! Fits perfectly in my S340 elite!

Love the huge art piece. I want that. And I've always had a thing for those ikea wall mounted tv stands. Very sleek.

+1 for Narvinye's comment on the curtains.

My suggestion would be to add accent lighting behind your tv and along the top of the upper cabinet. That would look AMAZING in your already nice space.

You can use something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-5-Meter-Waterproof-Flexible-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1453398649&sr=8-4&keywords=led+strip

Here's an example of led strips used effectively:
http://st.houzz.com/simgs/8a61520401e6b2c5_8-7450/contemporary-media-room.jpg

Thank you - I put a lot of work into this project and it turned out pretty nice. As far as the lights; that was a pleasant surprise. My original plan was to run a standard white LED strip on the inside of the frame but I found a pretty good deal on Amazon for this light. It has a remote control and multiple functions to either hold a solid color or to slowly cycle through them.

It was definitely a fun project.

• The LEDs are individually addressable like a SPI.This means that instead of needing 300 connections to 300 ports we attached the LEDs in a serial strand and each LED's address is just its number. So to change the colour of the 10th light we load the colour at the address of 10 and then 'render' the entire string. We used this library ( https://github.com/jgarff/rpi_ws281x )
  
  
• We had a separate power supply for the LEDs. While it was possible to briefly power the entire strand (300 LEDs) from a single Raspberry the brightness wasn't what we wanted and we were afraid we would draw far too much power and burn out the RaspberryPi.
  
  
• The wiring diagram is relatively simple, I'll ask if I can get it from the guy who was responsible for the wiring. I'll also look into seeing if I can get permission to release the source code.
  
  
• Our resolution for both cameras was 160x120 which we polled at 5Hz. Given more time and in the future, we may look into a different CV library to make it more responsive.
  
  
• I thought we had to supply a clock signal for the LEDs as well but it seems like these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085IXEYS/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0085IXEYS&linkCode=as2&tag=telet-20 don't require much (3 lines). For our project it was deemed ok to have a slight delay so we didn't have to be super accurate.
  
  
• Video and image album link is above!

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  

• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  

  
  

  And here's the part list!
  

  
  

  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  

  ---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

Multi-color LED strip lights ~$25. You can set the lights to any color including a comfortable 'soft white' or have them continuously cycle or blink through every color in the rainbow.

They are super fun, effective, and cheap. Comes with a remote too. I used to think something like this cost hundreds of dollars.

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%AE-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415075720&sr=8-2&keywords=led+strip

My first thought would be to get these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MG9KYCD?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DTOAWZ2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XFSNKXS?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

You’ll get 10 DMX channels of RGB control that can support 10ft of LED strip each. Put a few inches of LED in each lantern then connect to the next, so you’d be able to link together about 15-20 lanterns or more on a single channel. Won’t be “individually” controllable, but you’ll have control over the groups of lights that are connected. Do this for each of the 10 channels and you could easily fill a room.

Super interested to hear everyone else’s approach for this

The El Wire I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Q5WVBU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_5CTYDbD9JHQQ7

String:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IGEBSS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_eFTYDb58P80HW

The El Wire worked pretty well, but when I put it on flashing they flashed at different speeds. Though it did have a neat effect.

Good luck!

I'd say this is a pretty ambitious first project, but what better way to learn than to fail until you succeed. I did this project for a friend on a 75" tv. Honestly to do this for your computer you wouldn't use a raspberry, you would use your computer as the "brain" instead of a pi. Here's the links i used to do the tv project, there's youtube guides for pc using an arduino, you can reverse engineer these links to get you somewhere.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCVfZb4UoO4

https://www.amazon.com/Aclorol-100V-240V-Switching-Converter-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B07CMM2BBR/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1531773371&sr=8-4-fkmr1&keywords=DIANQI+power+supply+50W+5V+10A

https://www.amazon.com/Movcle-Splitter-Adapter-Powered-Certified/dp/B0180PPTNO/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1531772622&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=HDMI+Splitter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Cingk-Converter-Adapter-Supports-Chromecast/dp/B01N0YDDI3/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772653&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=HDMI2AV+Converter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Remote-Famirosa-Switcher-Selector/dp/B075K3X64T/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772702&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=HDMI+Selector&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/August-VGB100-External-Composite-Transfer/dp/B008F0SARC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772765&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=USB+Grabber&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/CHINLY-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof-waterproof/dp/B01LSF4Q00/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772536&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=WS2812B+RGB+LED&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Uno-R3-Microcontroller-A000066/dp/B008GRTSV6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772580&sr=8-3&keywords=Arduino+Uno

I prefer these when I'm doing LED lighting. It requires a little bit of soldering, but just a singe Molex connector where the AC power brick is. Two wires total.

Long strip, lots of color options, remote control, has the ability to adjust your color settings in R,G or B one step at a time in either direction and save custom color profiles and has several different pulsating/flashing lighting effects if you're into that.

Regardless of which one you get, if you go with a long LED strip like this you should either get the NON-waterproof version or be ready to cut and solder the strips at every corner. The waterproof covering is excellent but doesn't bend very well at all.

Also, invest in some thin double-sided tape. The adhesvie that comes with a lot of these isn't very good.

Okay I am creating my spare room into a studio and dark room. I am curious if safelights have something special to them or if it is just a red light? I am thinking about putting something like this in the upper wall side by the celling. I am curious if I turn it to red, will it work as a safelight?

Really appreciate the info, I am working on a project similar to this one, and this one but with much less LEDs. Ideally I'd like to run 900 individually addressable LEDs, all controlled by a Teensy using these LED strips. I know it's a bit ambitious for my skill level, and I am slowly working up to assembling the project. Got any advice for me before I fry myself?

Here's the led info, I also have a similar strip, but only in white.

SUPERNIGHT (TM) 16.4FT 5M SMD 5050 Waterproof 300LEDs RGB Color Changing Flexible ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_xs_q4rjybJJBG7WB

Thanks for the info!

Edit: After more thought I'd like to use the raspberry pi, then later I could add some internet features like hooking up recipes on ifttt.com.

Very nice. Also curious why you didn't just use an off the shelf LED strip which is like $30 for a reel of 300. Here's an example from amazon that has the LEDs closer together: https://www.amazon.com/CHINLY-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof-waterproof/dp/B01LSF4Q00/

But any of the WS2812b LED strips will work. There are also multiple different strips that are either enclosed in a silicon tube, or bare strip.

You also could have made the holes closer together on your 2x4 soldering jig so that you wouldn't have to bend the wires. Kinda negates the entire point of the 2x4 soldering jig lol. Hindsight on that i'm sure.

I am planning on adding an LED strip also. I don't have my CR-10 yet, but I have other printers that I have added LED's on. From what I can tell, there is no 12v pins available on the CR-10 board. So you would have to either tap into the power supply or plug it in separately. I saw someone else tapped into the 12v line for the fan that cools the heat break but I don't think that's a very good idea.

You can buy a strip that includes a power supply and a remote control for $17 on Amazon.

If you go with something like this, you need to cut the strip to fit on the CR-10. Then you will need to solder 4 wires to the end of the strip where you cut, and connect them to the control box. Then that plugs into the LED strip and you can turn it on and off with the remote. There are better strips out there than the one above, because those LED's are spaced a little further apart. Here is another but it's more expensive.

While I don't have experience with the NZXT Hue I will say I did something similar with this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_wVFzwbR1CBPZ5

About $25 for 16 feet (more than any computer case will ever need) comes with a nice remote, is super bright (but adjustable) and in general makes things look really cool. Only downsides are that you'd need an adapter to plug it into your PSU (luckily I already had one) and the adhesive on it sucks but you can pull it off easily and get better stuff.

Thank you!

I was very inspired by friends and people here and over at r/battlestations.

I didn't want to spend a ton on a philips hue lightstrip ($80), so I found this alternative on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QWJRBS/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's worked great for me so far! Have to use a remote instead of being able to use my google home to control it but for $65 cheaper that's a no-brainer for me.

Behind my laptop I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7684I2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's how I got the two-tone look. I like it a lot.

Gladly! I based my builds on one developed by Ulrich Radig, who makes his source code pretty freely available on his forums and on github. He's got an (older version) assembly and demonstration on that first link, towards the bottom.

Basically, you lay out strips of WS2812 LEDs to form a grid of lights, say 13x13, depending on how many letters wide your clock face needs to be. These LEDs can be controlled individually by a signal from a microprocessor, so you can turn on just the necessary lights instead of the whole strip. For a controller, we use a NodeMCU 12-E or similar ESP-8266 board, which is a low cost (8 euro) microcontroller that also has wifi built into it and which can be programmed in the same manner as an Arduino. You then put a grid between the LEDs to mask the lights and to prevent the light from lighting up the letters around it, since you just want one letter per LED to be lit up. Ulrich used water jet cut foam for his, my first one was cardboard, but I now have a 3d printer and will print something for it. Over the grid, you put a face plate with the letters etched, cut, or painted on it. Ulrich used a silkscreen method on glass. I used painter's tape on a opaque plexiglas, traced and cut out the lettering, then a couple of coats of black spray paint over that. I carefully peeled out the tape and it left a negative of the letter for the light to shine through. This time I'm going to maybe do something nicer, laser cut metal or wood (haven't quite decided). The whole device is run on 5v power, so a simple 2A USB style cell phone charger is all you need for power.

Ulrich did most of the heavy lifting with his code, where he created a sort of library that stores the "addresses" of the LEDs in a big matrix, then created reference functions to the matrix. Calling the function "Es" lights up LEDs numbered 1,2. Calling "ist" lights 4,5, and 6. This is set up for all the other words as well. He also built in a time lookup service to sync the time over the internet, and he included a web server function so you can connect to the clock over wifi and control the colors, brightness, and so on. I have mostly just adapted his code on my previous projects, but I hope to go a little further on this one, to add in a battery powered back up clock module, and if I have time, to refine the web server that Ulrich made.

This is the strip I have in the back of my desk, easy to use and set up. The adhesive isn’t always the best so you might wanna use tape or push pins to help hold it up but this strip works great

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Changing-Flexible/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1524633224&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rgb+light+strip&dpPl=1&dpID=511DpqZdCCL&ref=plSrch

Thanks for all the information! This is all really helpful, especially that diagram, and I appreciate you taking the time to work with me on this.

I'm looking at grabbing these LED strips, which come with the power supply, and I've already got the raspberry pi. As for the PWM outputs this looks like it should be fine right?

I would also need, for each stair that I'd be working with, one of these. Would this be good? And am I missing anything?

They do change color! It comes with a remote where you can choose what color and brightness. They just stick on the back of the tv and are powered via USB.

Here’s the link:


Led Strip Lights 6.56ft for 40-60in TV, PANGTON VILLA USB LED TV Backlight Kit with Remote - 16 Color Changing 5050 LEDs Bias Lighting for HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.W9ADbQ8QAA63

Now if you wanna get real fancy with it, Philips makes a light kit as well. Stronger light and you can control it with your phone and there’s a TON of customization options too.

Philips Hue Play White & Color Smart Light, Single Base Kit, Hub Required/Power Supply Included (Works with Amazon Alexa, Apple Homekit & Google Home) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GX9YG1H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i19ADbEZJ8Y3J

Hey Hvy-

I used about 15m of RGB LED Tape connected to a wireless (remote controlled) RGB controller. In the video was the test mount, but I ended up installing them under the hull/deck joint so they give a softer glow and aren't in your face....

http://www.amazon.com/Cooligg-Wireless-Remote-Controller-12-24v/dp/B00GWFH46A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1426871084&sr=8-2&keywords=rf+rgb+led+controller

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Changing-Flexible/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_img_y



Best part is, the lights are already 12v, so no voltage modifications.

A cheap and easy way to start with LED lights is the IKEA dioder: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50192365/

The transformer is a step down to 12v, so just cut that off and wire it in!

Thanks man. There are a ton of different options, but they are NOT the Ikea ones. Those are over-priced and quite a mess to hook up.

Incase anyone is wondering how bright they are, it still adds a good deal of light under normal lighting as well. Here is a picture with my hanging lamp on WITH the LED's on.

http://imgur.com/TA7w1MH

You can get this setup in different lengths to fit your desk.

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%AE-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408795973&sr=8-2&keywords=led+strip

I used 1 of these and another 16ft extension. It was super easy to put up. I do recommend doing a test run of the stuff first to make sure it will work where you want it.

This is where I’m fuzzy about it. It’s a 12v strip that’s 16.4ft. I plan to cut it down to six so it’s 3ft up and 3ft back down. Does this change the voltage? What type of battery would be best for that, and how do I need to implement resistors? I don’t know very much so any help would be super appreciated. I’ll put the link right here.

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Changing-Flexible/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1550106168&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rgb+led+strip&dpPl=1&dpID=511DpqZdCCL&ref=plSrch

I've been looking into lights for my mirror too. I've been leaning towards something like this as it's flat, easy to install, bright, and not very expensive. There's tons of these strip light sets on amazon, just make sure as you're scrolling through to read reviews and pick up an adapter (the one I've linked actually comes with one). The one I've linked is also dimmable!

1. They are fucking amazing
   
2. The LED's can last up to 10,000 Hours, so don't have to worry about em' burning out any time soon.
   
3. They are super-duper cheap and make your room look AWESOME at night.
   
   
4. The link....http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%AE-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1409790337&sr=8-4&keywords=RGB+led+strip

I've used a kit like this in one of my tanks. It looks good. The way these kits work is you have an LED chip with one red, one green, and one blue led. Turn them all on and you have white! So I'm not sure what the other posters are talking about "not having white".

After all R+G+B=W.

Get something like this one in which you can control how much red, blue, green, etc you put out, it gives you a lot of control so you can get a perfect white.

This build will run the games you want to play at nice settings. If anyone has any changes please comment them. There’s not too much RGB but if you want more you can buy a strip of them for $18 off amazon. RGB strip lights

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor | $237.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $24.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - Z370-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $89.99 @ Newegg Business
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $208.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $41.50 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $43.85 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card | $299.99 @ B&H
Case | Cooler Master - MasterBox Lite 5 RGB ATX Mid Tower Case | $63.44 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $53.98 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.89 @ OutletPC
Monitor | MSI - Optix G24C 23.6" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor | $225.19 @ Newegg Marketplace
Keyboard | Corsair - K55 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard | $47.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Corsair - Harpoon RGB Wired Optical Mouse | $27.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1508.68
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $1458.68
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-03 16:25 EDT-0400 |

To begin with you need to install a Celling Gypsum design that is suitable for LED lighting ... I recently fixed something like this ...
Then you need to install a power source inside the opening so no one will see it ... at the end you buy a LED strip and connect it to the power source ... LED strips come in different types and prices ... Amazon has variety ... this one is waterproof and changes colors ... once you hide the strip into the opening you can control the light with a wireless remote ... like this ... so the first thing you need to do is find a good gypsum celling contractor and finalize the design and work with an electrician in parallel .. good luck

I used these light strips which have adhesive and stick under my bed and behind my desk :) Also IKEA is great for this type of look! I hope you have access to one somewhere close to you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078N9HJFV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-Hedgie came from a great breeder
http://www.welovehedgehogs.com/index.html

-KALLAX Shelving unit, high gloss white
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20305745/

-Stanley Hardware 40-3426 1/4" X 6' Plastic Track in White Coated
by Stanley Hardware Link: http://amzn.com/B000NHLJE6

-SUPERNIGHT 5-Meter Waterproof Flexible Color Changing RGB SMD5050 300 LEDs Light Strip Kit with 44 Key Remote and 12V 5A Power Supply
by SUPERNIGHT Link: http://amzn.com/B00ASHQQKI

-Prime-Line Products 191928 Self-Adhesive Medicine Cabinet Pull, Clear, 2-Pack
by Prime-Line Products Link: http://amzn.com/B002YGNDAW

-Coroplast Model # CP4896S Internet # 205351385 Store SKU # 1000118572 48 in. x 96 in. x 0.157 in. White Corrugated Plastic Sheet
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Coroplast-48-in-x-96-in-x-0-157-in-White-Corrugated-Plastic-Sheet-CP4896S/205351385

-Model # 80077-ZWS77CM1 Internet # 202081502 Store SKU # 748867 1-1/4 in. x 2 in. x 84 in. Vinyl Brick Moulding Set (3-Pieces)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-4-in-x-2-in-x-84-in-Vinyl-Brick-Moulding-Set-3-Pieces-80077-ZWS77CM1/202081502

-Veranda HP Model # H120AWS6 Internet # 205309788 Store SKU # 1000052907 1/2 in. x 48 in. x 8 ft. White PVC Trim
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-HP-1-2-in-x-48-in-x-8-ft-White-PVC-Trim-H120AWS6/205309788

-DAP Model # 00688 Internet # 100128841 Store SKU # 686064 2.8 oz. Silicone Aquarium Sealant
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-2-8-oz-Silicone-Aquarium-Sealant-00688/100128841

-One Day Glass - Peninsula Glass Company
https://www.onedayglass.com/
Type: Tempered Glass
Shape: Square/Rectangle
Thickness: 1/4"
Tint: Clear
Edgework: Flat Polish (a,b,c,d)
Width: 28"
Height: 11 1/16"

Not sure where you’re using them but we needed some for a quick show. This worked great. Nexlux LED Strip Lights, WiFi Wireless Smart Phone Controlled 32.8ft Waterproof Light Strip LED Kit 5050 LED Lights,Working with Android and iOS System,Alexa, Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722VLVRR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x8u1DbYMKBYVK

I hope your experiment in simple living is rewarding. I've gained a lot from the short amount of time I've spent away from civilization. Being secluded from humans and immersed in nature is gives you a different perspective on life to say the least.

LED's will probably be the best option because they run on DC, and besides that they are by far the most energy efficient form of lighting. If you buy LED's get a light that runs on 12v and isn't wired with a switching adapter to run on 110v AC - if it's wired with a standard 2 or 3 prong wall plug you know this is the case. This is important in your situation because the process of converting power from one phase to another wastes power in the form of heat - the process isn't efficient. Using an LED wired for 110v would be bad because you'd be switching the power, with efficiency losses, twice. If you can get a setup that's all DC you'll use your electricity in the best way. A 24v DC to 12v step down converter will consume much less power than an inverter will.

There are a lot of options as far as strip lighting goes. This strip uses smaller LEDs and draws 25w, but has the same amount of LED chips and is the same length. Less wattage spread over the same area.

Anyone have Multi-colored Led strips on their board? I wanna put something like This on my board, and i wanted to know how well it works. Thanks for any help

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QWJRBS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There you are. They're pretty nice for $14. And if you buy more than one, they can all be controlled with the same remote. It's limited in it's colors but it does the basics pretty well. There's also a newer version that I have not tried.

I am not aware of a way to wire a switch in a headboard that is up to code. You would probably need to attach the bed to the wall/floor so it is considered part of the structure, and any exposed wire would need to be in conduit. Can you put the switch in the wall?

Let me give you a simpler option if you want the switch on the headboard.

1. Get an outlet to where you want your lights to start.
   
   
2. Buy this and plug it into said outlet. Stick the switch to the headboard.
   
   
3. But this plug it in.
   
   
   I have used these LEDs on a few projects. They are cheap and you can buy additional strips to extend them, or you can cut them shorter. Just make sure your power adapter has the current for the length you attach. They come with a remote which can turn them on and off and set the color and brightness. However, they remember the state they were in. So you could set them to a cool blue or pink or whatever she likes and forget about the remote. Then, with the wireless switch I linked, she can easily just turn them on and off. (you could always turn them on and off with the remote, but it's nice to have a switch because it is always in one place.)

These leds are what i use. They are really bright have every color you can imagine. it does come with 16 feet, which i did manage to use in a full size tower. It has sticky tape on the back which is ok i still ended up having to use some 3m double sided tape. ive used these in 4 builds and i love them. ive tried cathodes its hard to get them into small spaces and behind stuff without either being able to see them or them not fitting. my cathodes also only lasted just over a 2 years where leds should have a longer life span.

They sale just white if that's all you want. I did my own - watched a few youtube videos and bought some of the raw materials myself and saved some money, learned a few things, and made the bike's lights the way I wanted.
led $8

remote module $ 19

power distribution module $12


Other than that, a little bit of 2-channel wire and electrical tape (or I used heat shrink), and if you wanna go the distance and solder (which I did that too) will get you where you want to be. My problem with those kits were you get a few feet of led strips for ~$40. The raw spool I bought gave me 16+ feet. I was able to use the excess for the cabs in my garage. Anyway, I hope this helps. Nice ride by the way!!

Cheers!

Friendly bit of advice, you can get RGB cut-able LED strips with adhesive backing, power adapter, and a remote for around $20/piece on amazon, cheaper for shorter lengths and only a single color.

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%AE-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1420231110&sr=8-5&keywords=rgb+led+strip

Great work, btw.

Thanks for the reply. So let’s say I bought 4 of these CHINLY 16.4ft WS2812B Individually Addressable LED Strip Light 5050 RGB SMD 150 Pixels Dream Color Waterproof IP67 Black PCB 5V DC (Black PCB 16.4ft 150leds waterproof) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LSF4Q00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lsGHAbSH2EMKY


What power supply would I need to buy just for these and what control board would be best?

Just like /u/DictatorShadow suggested, I recommend the remote-controlled cheap ones. I have these behind my desk and they look great.

Better off with a pre made strip or matrix.

For the interior look for a 12v RGB led strip (<$20 for 3m). This will allow you to run off the battery directly. Rather than set up an arduino I'd suggest a led RF receiver/controller with a remote (they're like $5)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EWBZW0A/ref=pd_aw_sim_201_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PC9996N023FVYG6E25VR

Cheaper than I thought. To separate cut on perforations, solder on wires and run it to the next area. To power I'd splice off the radio power 12v that turns on when the car is turned on, or from a cigarette lighter.

For the exterior I'm not sure what would work best. It depends on location and how you're incorporating it with existing wiring.

I used this light strip from Amazon. I'm really happy with them. Installation was a breeze. I bought a splitter and L-shape connectors to make things easier.

If you have that kind of space I would get a greenhouse tent /kit
like this

along with a humidifier, humidity controller, a couple small fans, a few rolls of led strip lights and a timer. You can put together one of these automated setups for pretty damn cheap (less than $200?) and you will never have to mist and fan again, and will allow you to go out of town etc and not worry about the constant misting and fanning. Additionally you can grow some culinary mushrooms (lions mane and to a less extent king oyster does well with cubensis), which if youre interested in doing this long term or bulk really helps cover your ass.

As mentioned below you should transition to bulk after this grow. Look into making liquid culture from fruits you grow this round which can be used to quickly make grain spawn and thus bulk tek grows.

Dioders are quite pricey and I highly recommend going with these LED Strips since it is much better, longer and you can cover all of your Detolf with it. As I did with mine. I can get you a picture of both displays with LEDs on after work if you want

Also the by going with the LED Strip it's on Prime Shipping plus it has changeable lights and a remote switch!

And if you find Acrylic Cubes at IKEA I'd like to know aswell! :P

Oh crap didn't realize it went all the way back. Ignore my suggestion about the monitor stand (unless you want to drill a hole in your desk..)

Actuallyyy that would be one way to get the cables out of site. drill a hole behind your monitor.. But if you didn't want to do that you could try a cable sleeve like this maybe? Just run it along the bottom edge? https://www.amazon.com/Alex-Tech-10ft-Protector-Sleeving/dp/B07FW3GTXB/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=cable+sleeve&qid=1550156179&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Also the fact of the desk means my RGB idea wouldn't work either. But you could put them on the back of your monitor and that could be cool. I literally just bought these and am very happy with the qualilty. They worked better than the first ones I got from Wall mart...https://www.amazon.com/PANGTON-VILLA-Led-Strip-Lights/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=lp_18423905011_1_1?srs=18423905011&ie=UTF8&qid=1550156289&sr=8-1

I'm using cheap LED strips off of Amazon.

I have one strip controlled by a Fibaro RGBW controller.

The others are controlled by Raspberry Pis, with custom scripts to handle fades, strobes, etc.

They are very bright when it's dark out. We could see them very clearly from about 2/10ths of a mile away. I have one setting that looks like strobes from a police car. I haven't tested that one outside yet though. The plan is to use it if someone comes around licking door handles.

The picture I posted is from the blue being set at 100%.

Oh, and a video of police mode inside.

You want to use 24v strip in these cases in order to not have to deal with power injection, which is where novices can easily get into trouble. With 24v you can run up to 10M, or 32.8ft, and is such often sold in 10M reels. Purchase four of these and cut each down to the length of it's respective wall, being sure to only cut on the line in the center of the copper pads every 6 LEDs.

{With addressable strip, the pixel "size" is TYPICALLY determined by voltage, so for 24v strip, each 6 LEDs will act as a single "pixel," when playing back patterns, 12v strip is 3 LEDs, 5v is 1.}

After cutting the strip to length, you will want to remove the connectors from the cut off ends and solder them to your new ends. IT IS IMPORTANT FOR THIS SCENARIO TO NOT solder on the RED (+24v) wire, as it will be safer to use 4 smaller power supplies, you are only wanting to interconnect the green Data wire and white Ground wire between each strip. If using IP68 waterproof strip, don't forget to remove the silicone endcap from your cut end, replacing it on the new end with a dab of silicone sealant.

Attach the 2.1mm socket adapters to the RED (+) and White (-) bare wires at the beginning of each strip using a jewelers screwdriver. Connect the 3-pin connectors between each strip, and tape off the bare wires with electrical tape, then connect the PSUs to the last three strips. For the first strip, connect it's PSU to the 2.1mm splitter, plugging one end into the strip and the other into the controller. Wire the 3pin connector included with the controller to the Data and Ground of the controller, again in this case, DO NOT CONNECT THE RED (+24v) WIRE to the controller; just wrap the end in electrical tape. Finally, connect the 3-pin connector from the controller to the first strip and power up your PSUs. From here it's just configuring the controller with your phone or tablet.

4x: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Visdoll-Flexible-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B075GCKPHB?th=1&psc=1

4x:https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074GJ22P6/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A325274ZEF9XYZ&psc=1

1x: https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Controller-Individually-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B01LW1J10W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541825064&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4+output+ws2811+controller&psc=1

1x: https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Female-Connector-Security-Adapter/dp/B079RCNNCK

1x: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G6G5DJ0/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1

Here is what you will need- this is double density LED strip. Prices for these strips have dropped dramatically in the past two years, and you want to get them directly from Amazon or eBay from a well rated seller to avoid paying way more than you have to than from a company who is in America and is just importing the goods to mark them up.

The last time I did a large LED strip project, I bought at least one spare item of each type to ensure that I had no Chinese failures. You may want to do the same.

4x
SUPERNIGHT (TM) 16.4FT 5M SMD 5050 Waterproof 300LEDs RGB Color Changing Flexible LED Strip Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Y8asub14V6WY0

3x
LEDJump DMX512 4A 3 Channels Decoder Controller Dimmer for RGB LED Light Strip DC12V-24V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQ3NY5E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_j-asub002J3CY

3x
New Universal Charger AC Power Adapter Laptop Notebook USB/10 Tips 12V-24V 90 Watt Max https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FD71P8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5cbsub1Y1Z1W3

You will need to be prepared to solder and to strip wires. Have some extra wire handy for leads.

Think about where you want to place the power supplies and DMX boxes, and ensure that you have enough wiring to do so.

Run the laptop charger at 12V.

You may want to use these as a drop glow, and not have them directly visible. If you have them directly visible, you may want to diffuse them some more to avoid looking at individual LEDs.

Consider putting in a quarter round 1/2 inch molding on the lip of your platforms, and adhering this to the underside of it to illuminate the face of your platform.

Good luck!

I just purchased these strips and they arrived yesterday: https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Changing-Flexible/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509408840&sr=8-3&keywords=rgb&dpID=511DpqZdCCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

It's a rarity to see this much in one strip for 12 bucks, but they seem to be working pretty well thus far. The adhesive is pretty weak though.

Another note: You'll need a controller or an RGB 4-pin connector on your motherboard to use these, and the appropriate software provided by your motherboard producer to program/control them.

Just bought this. Let's hope it looks awesome!

Amazon.

The adhevesive on the strips is strong enough to hold on the sides but the top kept falling off so I added small 3M strips but the lights already come with some plastic retainers for the top.

Comment in response to @ u/FKArenn too.

Adhesive strips around perimeter.

I wish I had another curio case since their frame allows for a spot to put your lights on.

I dont know how this guy did it but you could use something like this with a controller like this. You could use amazing goop or something similar to attach them to the board. The glue on the led strips is very poor. After that, all you need is a 12v power supply and a connector to the RGB controller. I have a lot of lipo batteries from RC stuff so that is what I would use for power. I would try a 1000 mah 3s for starters and either velcro it to the binding or my pants leg. for connectors I use JST.

This what I used! In my opinion the battery pack is perfect for my hydration pack!

Zitrades EL Wire Kit 9ft, Portable Neon Lights for Parties, Halloween, Blacklight Run, DIY Decoration (5 Pack, Each of 9ft, Red, Green, Pink, Blue, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Q5WVBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uZF7Ab8ESM39X

Put them on a base, not on your skin. You will dissolve the adhesive and they won't stick to you, a plastic mask would be pretty easy to rig up. Also those are 5050 leds, which are kind of terrible in my opinion since you can only power the whole strip at once, you can't control segments. Go with ws2812b or ws2811 which are the individually addressable and controllable type. The 5050s can be controlled by an arduino board but not very well. For the board, go with a 5v Trinket or Nano, small and easy to control.

This strip has a higher light density and is generally easier to work with: https://www.amazon.com/CHINLY-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof-waterproof/dp/B06XNJSKXN

I'll copy paste it then:

Some info...

Right Build:

Case: NZXT h510 Elite

Monitor: LG 32GK650G-B 32" QHD Gaming Monitor (144hz)

Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow X (mercury white)

Mouse: Razer Basilisk (mercury white)

Mousepad: Steelseries QcK Prism Gaming Surface (XL)

Headset: Steelseries Arctis Pro Wireless

Speakers: Logitech Z207 2.0 Multi Device Stereo Speaker

MBU: Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming ATX Motherboard

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X

CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62

RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB

GPU: EVGA GeForce Nvidia 2080 Super FTW3 Ultra

PSU EVGA Supernova 1000 P2 80+ Platinum

Tablet: Microsoft Surface Pro 5

Tablet Stand: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S73HVW5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Left Build:

Case: Corsair Obsidian Series 750D Performance Full Tower Case (airflow edition)

Monitor: LG 34UC80-B 34-Inch Curved UltraWide QHD IPS Monitor (60hz)

Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow

Mouse: Razer Deathadder

MBU: ASUS TUF Gaming X570-Plus ATX Motherboard

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3800X (with stock cooler)

RAM: Corsair 16GB

GPU: EVGA GeForce Nvidia 1080ti FTW3 Ultra

PSU: EVGA Supernova 750 G2 80+ Gold

TV/Consoles:

TV: Samsung UN49RU8000FXZA Flat 49" 4K UHD 8 Series Smart TV (2019)

TV Wall Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VMH7PQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Console 1: PS4 Pro

Console 2: Nintendo Switch

Furniture:

Left Desk: IKEA Malm with 2 IKEA Malm Cabinets on Casters

Right Desk: IKEA Malm with Pullout Panel

Left Shelf: IKEA Lack 43 1/4" Wall Shelf

Right Shelf: IKEA Lack 74 3/4" Wall Shelf

Console Storage: IKEA Kallax with IKEA DRÖNA Storage Boxes

Chair: Steelcase Think

Decor/Lighting:

Under Shelf/Behind Desk LED Strips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PLNDJ2N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED Diffuser Channels (2 packs needed): https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Aluminum-Channel-Diffuser-Mounting/dp/B01NGWIGXJ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Muzata+Aluminum+Channel+for+Led+Strip+Light&qid=1570330250&s=hi&sr=1-5

TV LED Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QWJRBS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cord Concealer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GPBJV6K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Decorative Wall Tiles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NZ67LK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mounting Tape for Tiles/LEDs (2 rolls needed): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D2LWV7P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's a few close ups of the lighting to get a better understanding how it works: https://imgur.com/a/196iXOy

It’s actually this kit:

Nexlux Led Light Strip, WiFi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078N9HJFV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

A fraction of the price compared to Phillips Hue, but works perfectly with Alexa. Just a slightly narrower color spectrum

Pics would be very useful for our diagnosis :)

7 spacers is a bit too much, depending on your lighting configuration. My first plants needed about the same spacers and they couldn't flower correctly because of the lacking light. This is a picture from 2012!

We've come a long way since then though. There are many training techniques. I flower at about day 30 and with a bucket-SCROG I only need 1-2 spacers: http://imgur.com/a/yv7Qz#0

So! Try to max out your lighting for this tall plant. If not, you will have trouble with budding. The plant will probably stretch for a week more, put all the wattage you have available inside your bucket. I would get 15 meters of 5630SMD LED strips on the walls of those 7 spacers, that might help a lot.

These are the ones I used. I have a CR-10 Mini and they fit inside the grooves perfectly, with just a tiny bit of clearance.

Thanks! I'm using these for my Detolfs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVRVPRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KrukDbCR67Z5B

Check out my IG to see more =)

www.instagram.com/eujin209

Something like this might be better for you if you are not comfortable with soldering. You always get the benefits of selecting whatever color you want.

Here it is:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FExwDbQGW1SEJ

It's really neat! Highly recommend

The 3M command hangers are great for hanging things around your room or closet. And I would recomend some led lights like these: Flexible RGB LED Light Strip Kit

My room was dark and this really brightened it up

That's awesome. I'd like to see a picture of one. They sell ones that you wouldn't need any tech knowledge for. They just plug in and you use a remote to control them

Here's an example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_tsAFDb0W5567E

No need to be rich! There are super cheap:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QWJRBS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

Mobile Users: This is pretty photo heavy.

​

I've worked on this over the last two and a half weeks in the evenings and on weekends. I've probably got around 50-60 hours in so far.

The project is complete, there are just some other things I'd like to eventually do with the programming for the LEDs.

Tools

Exacto/razor blades

Heatgun - for heat shrink, you can just use a lighter

Soldering Iron

Phillips Screwdriver

Laptop/Computer for programming with Arduino or CircuitPython

Printer - laser or inkjet

​

Supplies/Parts

Various Rustoleum Spray paints - $20 total

Multi-Strip - $15

Masking tape and paper - $10-15

Extra razor blades - $5

Printer sticker paper - $15

Electrical Tape - $1

3m double sided foam tape - $4

Heat Shrink - Not sure, maybe $5 new for the assorted kit?

Adafruit Trinket: https://www.adafruit.com/product/3500 - $8

5v 4 amp Power Supply: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1466 - $15

White LED On/Off switch: https://www.adafruit.com/product/917 - $5

White LED Momentary Switch: https://www.adafruit.com/product/558 - $5

DC Power Jack: https://www.adafruit.com/product/373 - $0.95

Small Perma Proto PCB Board: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1608 - $3

50 feet (I used about 15 feet) 4 pin RGB extension wire: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GFW6ZB3/ref=pd_luc_rh_sspa_dk_huc_pt_expsub_2?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUlMwQ1ZSRzJSQ0tUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTQzMzg2M1FSRk9TSUFIMllNMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzEzNDU5QlQ3MFBCSTZKRUVDJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfaHVjX21yYWkmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl - $10

50 pair (lol) JST Connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NBSH4CA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - $11

16.7 foot reel of addressable LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LSF4Q00/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - $21

​

I think that's all of it, I'll update if I think of anything else.

It look DYI.
It looks a lot like my desk. I used to of these

https://www.menards.com/main/kitchen/countertops-laminate/view-all-countertops-laminate/customcraft-trade-6-ft-miter-standard-laminate-countertop/p-1444427696466-c-3629.htm?tid=3665618330554909790

and ordered some LED muticolor lights from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-5-Meter-Waterproof-Flexible-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453918649&sr=8-2&keywords=Led+strip+lights.

If you don't have menards where you live a lot of the big box improvement store have them for about the same price or you could call a countertop company and see what they can do for you.

I need outlets because the lights I'm using come with plugged control boxes.

But I'm curious why you think I need 12/4 as that gets to the heart of my question.

If I where you, I would use this

Just cut to whatever size you want and solder the strips back together, has a nice remote to choose color and even has some cool effects. Pretty cheap too.

I mounted mine on a wall. I got a piece of wood and slid it through the wrist strap and the place where your actually grab with your hand. I put 2 command hooks on the wall and rested the piece of wood on the two command hooks.

https://reddit.app.link/LKXQgmaI5W

Also bought some string lights off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FRFBKG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_SXS7Cb0HWYDQ1) and glued those to the back, hooked it up to Alexa. I tell her to start my gaming session and she turns off my lights, turns this and a fortnite blueshield on, turns on my xbox and e-nail. What a time to be alive

I bought these when they were $25 but I've been really happy with them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Q5WVBU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

thanks man, I planned on getting this LED kid for the cabinet since there is no inner lighting to begin with (I'd need glass shelves too). But this kit is programmable so I'd be able to set different colors to different sections to make it look like the laser beams actually gave off light. That'd be awesome to use like a neon/glow in the dark paint for the laser blasts so they would glow when the lights were off or glow with the lights being dim that way they pop out more... agh I want to go home from work now and start on this now hahahaha

EDIT: fixed link display cause I'm retarded

This is the "Amazon choice" as an example
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/

The first pic shows it having a female and male end and it's just the string of lights, so if you want to do anything with what's left after cutting down to size you will have to buy some other pieces or a kit.

So shop around to find what suits you.

When you get it it should be as easy as unwind, cut, and plug the end into the RGB header. The strip should be clearly marked which pin is R, G, B, and 12V, be certain to line those up with the same pins on the header. After that, power on and install the RGB software from your motherboard.

MINGER LED Strip Light Waterproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079B834PB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AC Infinity AXIAL 8038, Quiet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OXTWZI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The AC Infinity fans are nice and are standard wall plug NEMA 5-15P.

Thanks!

The ones behind the desk are these ones that I got off Amazon. Pretty cheap and sometimes the controller gets messed up to where it doesn't pick the right color when you click on it but overall I think they're worth it for the price.

The Nanoleafs are the small triangles that I combined to create a larger triangle above the computer. Those can be found here if you want to take a look.

This one. Also had to buy some pieces to make 90 degree turns and bought a piece to run above my microwave and then back down to the other cabinets. Was all pretty easy to set up.

SUPERNIGHT (TM) 16.4FT 5M SMD 5050 Waterproof 300LEDs RGB Color Changing Flexible LED Strip Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_raD7xbMSPV9ZW

These are awesome. Use them and they are quality.

Thanks! I’m an old gamer, my first FPS was Wolfenstein followed my all time old school favorite Doom! They are just LED lightstrips.

The ones that go around my big painting is this:

PANGTON VILLA Led Strip Lights 32.8ft 10m, High Brightness Multicolor 5050 RGB with with 24 Keys IR Remote and 12V 3A Power Supply, for for Christmas, Halloween, Home, Kitchen DIY Decoration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K8898JN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-8o0CbKFJD3D2

The ones that go around my desk, my shelves, my Destiny Titan Shield, and my Warglaives are these:

Led Strip Lights 6.56ft for 40-60in TV, PANGTON VILLA USB LED TV Backlight Kit with Remote - 16 Color Changing 5050 LEDs Bias Lighting for HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d-o0CbBXD53YT

Oh man!.. that would be sweet to have a setup like that... I only have a cheap setup of some LED strips, some imitation Par can lights that rotate (were like $4) and a rotating dome light lol... none of us are willing to roll with the black light out due to the fact that we actually want to sit on the sofa and floor without the possible "oh wtf is thatttttttt?!?!"

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%AE-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412276921&sr=8-2&keywords=led+strip

[Here you go!] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FRFBKG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share). It connects to an app on your phone where you can control the colors, brightness, speed, modes, saturation, etc. It has an adhesive backing which I used to stick it to the underside. These also came in handy for getting it from the bottom half to the top half without it looking shitty. [Here’s how I wired it] (https://i.imgur.com/K3pMA7S.jpg)

I picked these up on Amazon because I have sensitive eyes and having my TV as the one point of light in my bedroom at night could get painful. They reduce eye strain and make the blacks on your TV look black in the dark (they're more dark grey otherwise). They also look pretty cool and you get a full color gamut, the ability to dim, and cycle through all the colors.

The LED strips that come with the Hue+ are kinda weird. They look like a standard 5050 strip and act like it too. But if you plug a standard 5050 strip into the Hue+ it will not work.

I would air on the safe side and just keep your Hue+ kit intact.

5050 strips of RGB LEDs are dirt cheap anyway:

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Changing-Flexible/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/

They are even cheaper if you order from a Chinese seller on eBay and are willing to wait 2+ weeks on shipping.

Strip: https://www.amazon.com/Nexlux-Wireless-Controlled-Non-Waterproof-Assistant/dp/B078N9HJFV/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/141-3618799-0249308?ie=UTF8&qid=1538564435&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=nexlux+led+light+strip&psc=1

Bulb: https://www.amazon.com/IVIEW-ISB600-Multi-Color-Dimmable-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B0736DTSH9/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538564530&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=alexa+light+bulbs&dpPl=1&dpID=31u1TayEcvL&ref=plSrch

Both of these items work with Alexa and smart phones, when you set the strip up on your WiFi you need the magic home app on your phone, and for the bulbs you need the iView iHome app. I would also highly recommend you get some sort of Alexa device.

This is my next project...

https://github.com/steve228uk/homebridge-magichome

SUPERNIGHT WIFI Wireless LED Smart Controller Working with Android and IOS System Mobile Phone Free App for 16.4ft 300 LEDs RGB LED Light Strips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JS0KEBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XJn-ybKJ9WEBS

Alightings 4pin LED Connector Connect Wire to Strip, Applicable for 10 mm 5050 RGB Waterproof LED Strip Lights, 22 - 20 AWG Cable Without Stripping the Wires https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I8CDF58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jKn-ybEXT5PVQ

EvZ 4 Color 10m RGB Extension Cable Line for LED Strip RGB 5050 3528 Cord 4pin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DPQMKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yKn-ybSYT4318

EPBOWPT 12V 5A Power Supply AC Adapter for 5050 3528 RGB LED Strip Light Low Voltage Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KT20TNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKn-ybWC82QCH

SUPERNIGHT (TM) 16.4FT 5M SMD 5050 Waterproof 300LEDs RGB Color Changing Flexible LED Strip Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4Kn-ybSM88NFB

I got this kit from Amazon during Prime Day. It has a 3M adhesive back on it to stick onto the desk. It comes with a remote to change the color and has some cool fade and jump color features. I think I only ended up using half of the LED strip it comes too lol.

https://www.amazon.com/MINGER-Waterproof-Lighting-Controller-Decoration/dp/B079B834PB/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2HFNBZ5S8ZI2R&keywords=led+strips&qid=1556123003&s=gateway&sprefix=led+strips%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-4

I got them from amazon! honestly any of them would work fine

Led Strip Lights 6.56ft for 40-60in TV, PANGTON VILLA USB LED TV Backlight Kit with Remote - 16 Color Changing 5050 LEDs Bias Lighting for HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IuBWDbR9TX0FH


These from amazon! I put them behind each one of them and just hit the strobe setting and it looks awesome. Added more flare

hell yeah, you go it. thanks a lot. I found some LED back lighting strips on amazon that are USB powered and have a wireless remote. I've been using them every where. hope its ok to post a link


https://www.amazon.com/Led-Strip-Lights-PANGTON-VILLA/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?crid=ME93NZ8ZX11E&keywords=tv+led+backlight&pd_rd_i=B072QWJRBS&pd_rd_r=a38f32e5-e9c3-426e-ac87-1e105609f95a&pd_rd_w=I09ZN&pd_rd_wg=fmIek&pf_rd_p=1cb3f32a-ccfd-479b-8a13-b22f56c942c6&pf_rd_r=MYHNBBQYCE895FTE2YCK&psc=1&qid=1573254152&sprefix=tv+led+b%2Caps%2C-1

Thank you so much for your response! I was thinking that the Pi wouldn't be feasible on it's own for just that reason.

​

For the driver, would something like this be able to run all 8 strips separately if I were to run the output signal through an 8-way splitter?

​

Here you go
It's pretty long, but I have these behind my entire desk, annnddd it's kind of awesome.

you could do something like this

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-5-Meter-Waterproof-Flexible-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1468604805&sr=8-4&keywords=led+light+strip

they can be cut and use jumpers and splice in wires to cover multiple strips from the reel in different spots.

they would all have to be the same color though, or you could buy multiple sets to have more than 1 controller, but thats gets pretty wasteful for a few 1' long strips.

Lighting: NZXT Hue or something like this (if the front panel conflicts with your case's design) is usually the way to go when it comes to LEDs. I've grown to see LED fans as an eyesore; you want your case internals highlighted roughly equally, not the fans 2-3x brighter than everything else.

With a single color-changing strip, you can route it to light up the entire mobo, have only 1 cable to manage, and you can change the color to your desire. Personally, I prefer redder colors at night, and flashier blues and yellows during the day.

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Flexible-Daylight-Gardens-Kitchen/dp/B00HSF66JO/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519883907&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=12v+led+light+strip&psc=1

those are self adhesive even. Just used some on my 3d printer. they even have color changing versions, and some can react to sound....

Honestly seems like something out of a different aesthetic though... a bit too techno on a machine making the most of mechanics.

Yeah I was thinking of getting these for behind my desk and these for inside my case. The RGB ones can be programmed for new colors and different patterns and they arent that expensive. And the ones for inside the case are dirt cheap. Just got a ssd a month ago and its awesome!!

Sorry the pictures were supposed to have descriptions with them, it was my first photo post and I got it slightly wrong.

The panels are all replaced with VE Grade 3mm acrylic, optically looks clear but is virtually opaque in UV, Perspex amongst others make it, a full size sheet 2x1mtr is expensive so I would google for somewhere that will cut to size and sell you an off cut large enough to be cut into all 4 panels, (if you want to replace all 4). I used the oem panels as templates, the acrylic drill fine with a wood backing and I used a dremel like tool with a cutting wheel to cut out the panels, I would recommend protection as bits of hot acrylic tend to spin off the blade.

The lights are a couple of pieces of this, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HSF66JO, they can be cut every 3 LEDs and wires soldered to the ends. To fit them they have adhesive tape and are taped in the near corners. The proper way to route them would be to strip the printer down and file a slot in the base at the 2 corners, or drill holes big enough in the base to thread the cables through, or the naughty way, remove the screws in the corners, make sure the the sides are not glued with resin or anything. refit the screws and lever a small screwdriver down the side to make a slight gap, enough to route the cables down. Remove the base and fit a suitable switch, I used https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/push-button-switches/7346750, discrete and latches. Solder and heatshrink the wiring together and connect to the main connector on the motherboard.

If anyone is interested I can put the stl of the tool holder on thingiverse.

Thats exactly what I needed to know thanks so much. Do you think this set would work well? Based on what I've read I'm assuming I also need a RGB strip connector and transistor array so I can provide 12V to each color channel.

Thank you! Those are standard RGB strips 5050 waterproof 300smd like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Epoxy-5050-Strip-Light/dp/B0085IXEYS

Inside the computer its the NZXT HUE +
Behind the monitor are the Vansky USB RGB LED Strip
behind the desks are the Super Night RGB 5050 Lights

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/lights-Vansky-Lighting-Powered-Backlight/dp/B01N21BGJT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524347750&sr=8-1&keywords=vansky+lights

It's hard to just dim the brightness from a switch, though. LED dimming is not something that has a widely adopted standard. Each manufacturer usually has their own system for matching a dimmer with bulbs.

Can you find a smart light strip instead?

https://www.amazon.com/Nexlux-Wireless-Controlled-300leds-Waterproof/dp/B0722VLVRR/ref=sr_1_4?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1504043435&sr=8-4&keywords=smart+light+strip&refinements=p_85%3A1

definitely a route to explore.

some LED strip lights could give you enough lighting
https://www.amazon.com/WenTop-Waterproof-Flexible-Lighting-Bathroom/dp/B01GJ3O0J8

something like this for the outside
https://www.amazon.com/Litom-Outdoor-Wireless-Waterproof-Security/dp/B01JS285JS

this looks like a possibility
https://www.amazon.com/MicroSolar-Super-Bright-Lithium-Adjustable/dp/B00E5TP2VY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GJ3O0J8/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1510015304&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wentop+led+strip+lights&dpPl=1&dpID=51Z1u%2BUfRxL&ref=plSrch

These are the lights I used in my Eskimo Wide 1 inferno. I wired up a power box with 4 switches and put a strip on each pole. They are nice and bright when they are all on but the switches allow me to turn them on individually.

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-5-Meter-Waterproof-Flexible-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468804583&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip These, they're great led's.

If you want a bit more of a DIY solution go with these:

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%AE-Waterproof-Flexible-strip-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI

For the same price you get:

color changing(you can make them warmer so they match the light where the furniture will live)

4x the length

a remote

plus you can add more strips for ~$10

5 amps DC @ 12v DC per string. I think one string would provide plenty light, but two would be nice.

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Changing-Flexible/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=pd_sim_267_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DTOAWZ2&pd_rd_r=TYE278B5D6CVA7PBTQ84&pd_rd_w=mHO46&pd_rd_wg=afNG2&psc=1&refRID=TYE278B5D6CVA7PBTQ84


Control with this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281854002969?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Yes! got them from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V27VX7E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QWJRBS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one is not a lamp, but strip: http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%AE-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=pd_sim_hi_15?ie=UTF8&refRID=00ZJ6ET1TH30WSD1X1JT

I had a lot of luck with it though

Thanks! The LED strip is here - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ASHQQKI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case lighting is NZXT LED's. And the blue lights up top are just some Xmas lights

Thanks! I got the LEDs off of Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%AE-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI

Yours looks fantastic! Don't sell yourself short. See how it looks if you put it in front of a window. Or get some lighting to run along the inside frame.

Maybe a half inch apart?

This is what I got. The power supply and controller are not waterproof, but I tucked them up under a gutter where they wouldn't be exposed. They make addressable strips, where you can program multiple colors like red, white, and blue, but they are more expensive.

LE 12V Flexible RGB LED Light Strip Kit, Color Changing, 150 Units 5050 LEDs, Non-Waterproof , Remote Controller and Power Adaptor Included, LED Tape, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWBZW0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_qhu8iJFD9oS2C
Sorry was at work, cheers

I actually bought the LED strips off of the same website that I got the PC from and they installed the lights for me. But I do know, my father bought just a normal LED strip of lights from Amazon, and put them around his monitor and then on the inside wall of the case. (He has a glass panel around his too). He just used a adhesive puddy to attach it to the case, that can be removed very easily with no stains.

I tried to add a link below, I hope it works!

PANGTON VILLA Led Strip Lights 6.56ft for 40-60in Television USB TV Backlight Kit with Remote, 16 Color 5050, HDTV Bias Lamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_bN1WBbQ9PJGM6

Yeah wow. There's too many things that might be dead about that sign.

Here's my suggestion: Buy something like this or this and call it done.

Thank you!

I got the LED strip light off of Amazon.
Here's the exact one I purchased.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079B834PB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XiTwDb9659SP7

Strip of 300 waterproof, color-changing LEDs for less than $20 on Amazon.

But I'll just be happy if they can finally make sure they have signs on the inside of the damn cars telling you where you're going and what stop you're at.

It gets pretty tiring having to answering the same tourist questions over and over again since the train operators rarely announce the stops they way they're supposed to and since the signage in the stations is totally inconsistent and placed in awkward spots where it's hard to see from inside the tinted windows of the trains.

Most of the people use these. They also have ones that come with a power adapter and dimmer switch on ebay as well. Get the warm white water proof ones.

I bought it from a local store in my country, but they look exactly like these. http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-5-Meter-Waterproof-Flexible-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1451733226&sr=1-2&keywords=led

Here is my completed battlestation. I've been wanting to build a desk like this for a few years and I finally did it!

​

I plan to revisit cable management at some point, but for now I think it's fine.

​

Parts List:

Alex Drawer Unit - x2

Barkaboda Countertop

Adils Leg - x2

Signum
LED Light Strips - x4

Yes, it is. Will this kit work? Does the colour change according to the screen?

I used these for a project recently, they worked just fine. You'll probably also need some little 4 pin conectors and some rgb wire as well for whatever you want to do with them.

Something like this I think. If you search led strip kit on amazon there's cheaper options.

It is probably the dioder from IKEA since it looks like an IKEA desk. Could also just be something like this off of Amazon that he set up.

I know a bunch of people that use these off Amazon. I used them at work and like them. Plan to add them to my setup.

Thanks! Just a strip of LEDs

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Changing-Non-Waterproof-Controller-Included/dp/B01EWBZW0A/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1502221746&sr=8-15&keywords=led+strip+light

These are the ones I used, cheap and effective.

Edit: link

It's an LED bias lighting strip I bought on Amazon. It adds a nice effect when watching in the dark. https://www.amazon.com/PANGTON-VILLA-Led-Strip-Lights/dp/B072QWJRBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=led+bias+lighting+for+tv&qid=1558885429&s=gateway&sprefix=led+bias&sr=8-1

the header cant plug into the stand alone control box? id almost want to recommend plugging one strip into the aura header to see if it will just take control of the box, but im not entirely sure this is a safe idea that wont damage your board or lighting


also fyi, the asus aura feature didnt need specialty led kits, it works with standard 5050 rgb led strips that have a max power usage of 12v 2a. if it doesnt work the way you want it to then i would just return it and go with something like this instead

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%AE-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411668881&sr=8-2&keywords=led+strip

They are pretty bright but my camera phone makes it look blurred more than it actually is

Used this and only needed ~120 LED's to cover my bike

What would you recommend? Already went through two of these and they barely lasted 3 months before dying.

Just needs the correct male plug.

Get this instead... it's cheaper, and certain to be the right LEDs. 5M 5630 300Led SMD Warm White Waterproof

I got this one here.

The strip itself has 4 pins: Ground, Red, Green, Blue. I was going to power it with iether the supplied adapter or another one, with some transistors controlled by an arduino. Arduino will be connected via USB.

Show me what you did! I'm interested to see how you pulled it off.

I was also considering using python to do it instead of processing.

First of all, Dank ass coffee man im actaully drinking some right now. second, more light. id get 2 Y splitters for the sockets and add 2 more lights. or better yet These this should add a bit more penetration for a bushier plant. next would be top it at least once, and LST that puppy. drill some holes around the top edge of your bucket about every inch and get some plant training wire.
my question for you is, what nutes and soil are you using? all and all looks frosty!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076767MLZ/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I used. It's a good kit.

I dont think it would be that hard, and its a really neat idea. Found these on amazon and the frame could be made out sheet plastic or pvc.

Like these? http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406593189&sr=8-2&keywords=5050+rgb+led+strip

Given that is looks like mine, I'm going to assume they are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF66JO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DKSI0S8&pd_rd_r=ET8Y5X5FM7Q06TP33QBH&pd_rd_w=Xw11o&pd_rd_wg=ZQTfN&psc=1&refRID=ET8Y5X5FM7Q06TP33QBH

To install: https://www.reddit.com/r/AnimeFigures/comments/7psgup/dioder_alternatives/dsjy59n/ (Follow the pictures in the chain)

You might want to look into LED strips like this.

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%AE-Waterproof-Flexible-strip-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1451031074&sr=8-5&keywords=rgb+led+strip

Just some cheap LED strips I found on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ASHQQKI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Really easy to cut to length!

Zitrades EL Wire Red Blue Green White Pink Neon Glowing Strobing 9ft Electroluminescent Wires 4 Modes Battery Operated For Cosplay Dress Halloween Christmas Party Decoration Indoor Ourdoor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005Q5WVBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6A4XxbZ20APHW

I bought these.

Nexlux LED Strip Lights, WiFi Wireless Smart Phone Controlled 32.8ft Waterproof Light Strip LED Kit 5050 LED Lights,Working with Android and iOS System,Alexa, Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722VLVRR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jz3qDbK9B6786

They are pretty solid. You can cut the strip and buy extra power cords and WiFi modules. They are cheaply made but they get the job done.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0722VLVRR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

They have their own proprietary app. But I'm planning on controlling then with IFTTT. When I turn in my smart switch, it will turn them on.

I'll list a bunch of the stuff i've gotten from Amazon.

Color Changing Lightbulb with remote

Light Strips for behind TV or Desktop screen with remote

Light Strips for walls with remote

LED Neon Signs (There are a lot of different designs and colors so look around)

Glowing Moon Lamp


Star and Galaxy Emitter, TONS of different light options to choose from this ones a must

LED Charger just cause

Glowing Balloons for trips

Quality Christmas Lights

Powerful Blacklight

Color Changing Fairy Lights

Plasma Ball

Lava Lamp

I'm using seperate wifi controllers for each strip, works really well especially considering how cheap they are!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0722VLVRR?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

Not sure why this is such a good deal when you can get same thing on Amazon with remote control for about the same?
These are the same but use 3528 leds for $16 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BP4GNRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467419174&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=rgb+led+strip&dpPl=1&dpID=51hQb-dcRUL&ref=plSrch.
This one is 5050 rgb led and comes with everything you need for $20: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ASHQQKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1467422946&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Rgb+led
Just wondering why this is getting so much attention because I'm in the market for one of these for a pc molex case mod.

sure! Supernight LED Light strip.
Amazon link

So basically I used a 16" wire wreath frame and wrapped tin foil around it to reflect the light better, and stuck on the LED Lights! They don't come with a power adapter so I bought this one.

Instructions and parts are linked below. To incorporate the LEDs wasn't difficult, just required a router to create channels on the backside of the letters and about 80 point to point solder connections.

Instructions: (Not Mine)
https://www.instructables.com/id/Wood-and-Metal-NASA-Sign/

LEDs:
https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-Maxonar-Multicolor-Waterproof-Controlled/dp/B075FRFBKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541353963&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=alexa+led+light+strip&psc=1&smid=A1WU736W1PHVH9

Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT%C2%AE-Waterproof-Flexible-300leds-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411490570&sr=8-3&keywords=LED+Light+Strips

I used something like this and glued it to the back of the desk:

http://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-5-Meter-Waterproof-Flexible-Changing/dp/B00ASHQQKI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1454278435&sr=8-4&keywords=led+strip

Maybe something like this. Can set many different colors, dimmable.
I used this for under cabinet lighting in my kitchen.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ASHQQKI?keywords=led%20light%20strips&qid=1450218869&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3

Get yourself one of these, tape it to the back of your monitor, set up some daylight (warm) white presets, and thank me later.

I use these, $13, work like a charm

Like this

Some crafty placement of RGB strips! These are the light strips and controller we got on Amazon.

RGB LED Strip

WiFi Controller

LED strip lights, bunch of them on Amazon. They usually come with adhesive backs, can be waterproof, come in any number of colors and can even be color changing. You can also get them remote controlled, or get a remote control adapter. They can be cut to desired length as well.

​

Here's an example, but there are a bunch

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Changing-Flexible/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=sr_1_48?keywords=led+waterproof+strip+lights&link_code=qs&qid=1567554384&s=gateway&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-48

Just make sure the rope lights are RGB and controlable by your dial Like this

honestly don’t know why it’s a little blue but i’m guessing it’s because of my blue xfinity cable box behind my tv! here are the strips i’m using