Reddit mentions: The best rv appliances & ventialtion products

Most of our vanventures have been in snow, winter and mountains. We have also spent a lot of time in urban areas where stealth is key.

For insulation, we went with 3m Thinsulate. It is good stuff, easy to install, and safe (health wise, i.e. breathing in the material if you were to do fiberglass).

We did use reflectix to stick in the windows (also covered with black out curtain, and a layer of Thinsulate behind, as windows will have the most heat loss/gain). Reflectix is like a white car, it reflects away the rays!

From what it sounds like you're planning on, I would do insulation. It'll help with temperature changes (especially for the pup), and noise. 20 degrees isn't too shabby, but that metal box can turn into a fridge. And sleep will make all the difference when traveling. Noise too - mountains can have nice noise, but what if you're in the city, or on the side of the road mid-travel, or only place to park is in a crowded campground? Insulation helps with the noise.

Other noteworthy items for us...

• This bed
  
  We have a custom size bed, and just cut a 3 inch foam topper which we used for a bit, but we didn't realize just how much we were missing out on until my bad back plus turning on my hips in the wood all night led us to make this purchase. It is literally a cloud and I never want to leave bed. It's foam that we just cut down to size too.
  
  
• A journal
  
  We write our favorite parts, and keep track of everywhere we take the van. From an hour from home to other states, we write down some special moments to look back on. The joys of having the van are for those new moments in new places!
  
  
• Battery powered string lights
  
  They are pretty dope for mellow evenings without the bright, real ceilings lights on.
  
  
• Wifi repeater
  
  My partner made one himself, and it is freakin awesome getting HD Netflix on a cold winter night in the parking lot at a ski resort.
  
  
• French press
  
  Because coffee.
  
  
• Electric water heater
  
  Depending on your battery/inverter capabilities, this should do the trick. We didn't need this, but it sure is nice to have this low-wattage electric water heater when we don't want to boil water outside. Camp stove = need propane (what if you run out!), have to go outside (cold? uncomfortable AND delays the water boiling! in a populated area? less stealthy to boil water on the sidewalk, don't want to look like the creeper in the van parked in front of someone's house) and usually small (water can do so many things (ramen, coffee, tea, oatmeal, etc.) so why limit to one cup at a time?) So it's really nice to have a large, fast way of heating water while being able to stay inside.
  
  
• Black out curtains
  
  Usually more energy efficient and way easier to sleep with some darkness
  
  
• Large box
  
  It's become our "junk drawer" and sits on our counter - just holds all our little doodads that we use more often.
  
  
• A fan
  
  Fresh air, cools you down, and makes sure you're getting enough oxygen in there. (We got it as a way to make sure we don't have carbon monoxide poisoning from a propane-fueled heater too!) Not hard to install either!
  
  
• Solar panels
  
  The other day, the van battery died (just got old) and so we just waited for the sun to come out so we can charge it back up!
  
  That's all I can think of right now!
  Hope that helps :)

Looks nice. Ur ac may have a roof leak.

Its an easy fix that is gonna take up some time.

You may have already figured this out but if you park the rv going uphill the water on the roof will most likely roll off the back.

The ac is most likely leaking in one of the corners where it sits in ur roof. A gasket like this should fix it:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25071-Universal-Conditioner-Gasket/dp/B000EDUTNQ

Step 1 disconnect all internal wires going to ac and undo retaining screws

Step 2 go up to the roof and free up the ac. The ac sits below the nice aerodynamic cover up top. Be careful not to damage this as age can make them brittle. Replacements are $150. With a sharp razor blade cut away caulking and then remove any bolts n screws up top.

Step 3 ur ac should be free to lift off the hole in ur roof where it sits on the old square shaped foam gasket.

Step 4 scrape and clean.

Step 5 put foam gasket over hole

Step 6 replace ac and cover and reattach.

Step 7 use caulking to ensure a nice water tight seal.

Step 8 reattach ac wires, screws, and bolts inside.

Here is a quick video showing where a gasket can leak at:

https://youtu.be/88V3lbZlIuQ




The rest of the house has some issues but it will be fun to update everything to make it how you like =)


Once that water comes in through the ac, there is an inner space between the outside roof and inside ceiling that allows water to roll freely. Hence the water damage above a light, down a wall, and by the ac. If not addressed properly the water will literally pour in like someone was pouring you a drink. Have buckets ready. This May Be to YOUR advantage. Hence why the price is so low.

I wanted these features:

• reversisble - blow out in the heat and pull in gently in the cold
  
• 10-speed rather than three for finer control and the ability to access a very low speed. Allows for minimal power use and constant use in all seasons for humidity control
  
• thermostat for varying fan speed automagically. I actually don't use this much because it can turn the fan off when it's cool and I want continuous operation
  
• built-in hood so I could run it in the rain without a ginormous doghouse cover on the roof. My van is already 8.5' tall.
  
• remote because my fan and bed are on opposite ends of the 12' living space. I keep it in the console when driving in case I forget to lower it before departure (safe, but noisy).
  
  This led me to the MaxxFan deluxe. It was expensive but completely worth it IMO.
  
  It has a design feature I didn't realize when I bought it. The fan sits down into a mount which is fixed to the roof and sealed. If you need to remove the fan for any reason you can lift it out of the mount and repair/replace/whatever in minutes. This would make repairs or warranty replacement much less of a hassle. I don't know if Fantastic does this or not. Perhaps a FF owner can chime in.
  
  I saved money on this kind of thing by starting camelcamelcamel watchlists on items I knew I'd need for the build. In this example, the fan I bought has varied by $51 dollars in the past year. CCC will alert you when the price drops to a point you specifiy.
  
  I also saved more than $40 on a foam mattress I wanted this way.
  
  Edited to add: I think the Maxx or FF are both excellent fans. Folks in smaller vans could probably do fine with a 3spd manual fan with no cover. There are also marine style mushroom and flat-ish vents with fans in them. There are also wind-powered vents that require no electrons at all. These latter types might fit under solar panels for a neat install.

I actually just finished going through all of this.

1. I would recommend going solar. Powering your house batteries from your alternator works, but it puts extra stress on your alternator which means you'll have more repair bills down the road.
   
   1b) I have 2 vent fans installed in my roof, and it does wonders on a hot night. Set one to blow in, and the other to blow out, and you'll get some great airflow. Humidity is another story though. Even with the two fans humidity can be rough, but at least its something.
   
   
2. As for battery usage for the fans, the ones I linked you to use about 60w, so you are going to want to make sure to buy enough deep cycle batteries to last you however long you sleep. Two 60w fans running for 8 hours is going to be about 960w. I have 4 35 amp-hour deep cycle solar batteries, which give me a total of 1620 watts to play with, so I can run my fans all night, and still have 660w left over to play with in the morning. BUT, seeing as you are looking to also have a fridge, that is going to mean more batteries depending on the kind of fridge you are thinking of using. A fridge like THIS would only use about as much as your vent fans, and would save you money on batteries. Here is a calculator that helped me out when I was trying to figure out my battery bank.
   
   
3. Charging your house batteries off of your alternator only takes about 15 minutes or less for a full charge. Solar might take a few hours, but its less stress on your van in general.
   
   ​
   
   If you are worried about solar being too expensive, it really isnt. You can get a full 100 watt solar panel kit for $118. That give you all the wiring, a panel, and a charge controller all at once. Then all you need are batteries, which you can get a set of 4 for $250. You don't need those specifically, but just make sure whatever batteries you get, you make sure they are DEEP CYCLE batteries, and not starter batteries.
   
   ​
   
   Hope this helps! If you have any other questions, feel free to ask, and I'll be glad to help. Anything to help another vandweller so they don't have to go through all the hell I did trying to figure it all out myself. lol
   
   ​
   
   ​

Hey, good write-up thanks for sharing! I like the comparison chart you did with all the models.

I'd like to give a mention to Ventline fans because no one seems to know about them. They're less "RV" and more "food truck" style, but to someone on a budget, a fan is a fan, right?
Here's the one I have. They can be found as little as $60 shipped on Amazon (I only linked the more expensive one because it had a nicer picture) or $50 shipped on eBay. It's a much smaller fan than the Maxxairs or Fantastic Fans, but definitely worth consideration if you have a smaller space, have a slim power supply (I think it draws 0.5A), or are on a budget (heck, you could install TWO for less than some other brands!) They have other models too, but I think this is the best one of theirs for vandwellers.

I would consider a gas/diesel heater that uses your vehicle fuel tank.

And keep all heat sources away from bedding and upholstery, as best you can.

Not to be contrary, but there is a reason the Fantastic and Maxxair fans are the Go-to ventilation source - they work best after decades of trying to find a good ventilation solution.

And finally, having the vent near the back draws air from the cracked front windows and exhausts the entire contents of the van in about 45 seconds. I've played around with my Fantastic and 30-45 seconds is accurate.

For reference, my Fantastic was about $200 (ouch) but is 3 speeds (Low, High, and OMG) and Reversible (exhaust or cool air In over the bed) and has a vague "thermostat" that can kick it on automagically when the interior gets too warm.

It is NOT the auto-open, rain- sensing, remote fob, etc.

Fan-Tastic Vent

Looks like bullshit to me.

1. No discussion on the technology used on the website. No specs This is a huge red flag. What temperature does the fridge maintain? How long does it maintain that temperature on battery power?
   
2. I see no compressor. This means it is likely utilizing a Peltier to do the cooling, which runs at about 10% efficiency (compared to 30% with a compressor which is 3x more efficient) and is incapable of maintaining temperatures of proper refrigeration. It may cool your drinks down to 45-50 degrees, but it will not function for safe fresh food storage.
   
3. Those solar panels are going to put out a max of maybe 50W in the heat of the day if you're lucky, probably closer to 20W. And that involves taking your refrigerator and leaving it in the sun, where you will need far more cooling capacity to maintain proper temperatures. That's not enough juice to run a portable compressor powered refrigerator by a third. You'd probably need 6 times as much power to properly cool with a peltier.
   
4. Large gaps between the parts will make for leakage and loss in cooling capacity. Combined with thin walls, this thing is not going to be a good insulator.
   
   
   You can use a compressor powered, 12VDC portable refrigerator and freezer effectively on the go, but you're going to need some dedicated solar power production. Let's run through some numbers:
   
   31 liter capacity portable fridge/freezer for $611
   They have a 10.5 liter capacity version for $316 if you need to go really cheap. Reviews say this unit draws an average of about 3.75A, or 45W. For quick math: watts = volts x amps.
   
   

• This will consume 3.75 amps for 24 hours every day, so it consumes 90 amp hours (AH) per day.
  
• Lets say for 16 hours per day you need to make sure your fridge runs of of batteries. So 2/3 of that 90AH will come from batteries, resulting in a number of 60AH for battery power
  
• I am going to add 50% right back on that 60AH for energy loss and battery efficiency, putting the requirement back at 90AH. We're then rounding this to 100AH since thats the size batteries come in. To run the above refrigerator at 45W all day long on solar/battery power, you will want a 100AH deep cycle or AGM battery
  
• Next up, we want to know how much solar power you need to keep this going. This varies by solar panel placement and latitude, but I'm going to say you get a total of 6 hours of prime sun per day. During that 6 hours, you need to be able to charge 100AH of battery. That equates to 16.6 amps per hour. 16.6 amps x 12 volts = 199.2W. To run this system you will need 200W of solar panels on the roof of your van, producing power for you
  
  As a comparison, you can just how much different an actual refrigeration system is from the portable unit linked above. Looking at the pricing and weights further shows just how far off this system is from being able to actually safely refrigerate your food.
  
  
• 100AH battery for $179 (weighs 63lbs)
  
• 31 liter capacity portable fridge/freezer for $611 (weighs 30lbs)
  
• 30A charge controller for $30 (weights maybe 1lb)
  
• 2x 100W solar panels for $277 (weights 33lb)
  
  In total, This is $1100 in hardware and 127lbs of equipment to be able to properly maintain cold food storage. The thing you linked is a backpack sized beverage cooler only.

Yes! I'm living in a 2003 Odyssey, so the generation before yours, but I would imagine my experience is still applicable.

I installed a Fantastic Vent this past winter. Pretty simple install once I stripped the inside. I'm not sure of the dimensions for the Maxfann, but the Fantastic Vent is about 14x14". The ceiling of the Odyssey dictates where you can install the vent because the only 14" square space is between the C and D pillars of the van frame.


I cut the hole in the ceiling using a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. The cut took maybe 2 minutes. I secured the vent to the roof with self-tapping metal screws. Sealed it with butyl tap and self-leveling RV lap sealant.

I've done a couple hundred miles of highway driving since the install with no issues. It's also been through some pretty heavy rain in the PNW with no leaks.


Album: http://imgur.com/a/1W9QC

Hope this helps, ask any questions you want. I'm happy to help.

This is a simple unit with no fan - just a screen with a cover, so no need to run power to it:
https://www.amazon.com/TRAILER-UNIVERSAL-71111-C-GARNISH-INCLUDED/dp/B00VGQ7VFO/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9MJKX496EV9Z6N4ZNCJN

this one is virtually the same, but with a fan:
https://www.amazon.com/TRAILER-UNIVERSAL-71112-C-GARNISH-INCLUDED/dp/B00VGQ0HV4/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XMYV5EQHMQE95769H9GK

either will work for venting. the advantages of the maxxair or fantastic fan are variable speed fans, thermostatic controls, rain covers, etc. only you can say if those advantages are worth the cost.

Thanks! I am a experiential graphic designer by trade so I've detailed a lot of signs for big things like stadiums, malls, etc. and I've worked with a lot of fabricators to make those signs a reality. Kind of just applied that here loosely. I've never done wood working before so I was on youtube a lot and consulting friends.

It's just a fan-tastic vent works pretty well for the money.

> Speaking of fans, do you have a link to the fantastic fan you're speaking of?

I didn't properly name the fan. It's a "Fan-Tastic Vent(tm)" In other words, it's actually the brand name not me calling a fan fantastic.

There are lots of models with options like auto rain sensing to close the vent, remote controls. I got a three speed, reversible, manual control. Works great. Quiet, and I've run it all night on low with no major impact on my battery. (yeah, I know that's not scientific. I've just never measured its current draw).

I got one basically like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Vent-ABS-LID-Create-/dp/B0027XAN78

Hi everyone. Thanks for all the responses and advice. It does help. I need to be more clear on my idea and better explain how I could easily achieve my goal of a hot bath every night. Here it goes.
I would install an RV 60 gallon tank (71"L x 18"W x 12”H) between my bed (Twin XL) and floor. The tank would be fully insulated minimizing the power to keep a consistent heat. The hot water would also keep my bed warm so I wouldn’t need much heat at night. The big question Ive noticed is “how would you heat the water?” My idea is to heat the incoming fill water with propane by using something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Eccotemp-L5-Portable-Tankless-Outdoor/dp/B000TXOJQ4.
Once I have the hot water I could maintain temp with this
http://www.amazon.com/Suburban-520789-1440W-Electric-Element/dp/B003G9G4X4
Using golf cart batteries to power element.
Or I could fill my tank with cold water and heat incoming bath water with tankless water heater.

If you're not planning on using the alternator to charge the battery, I doubt that 60w alone is enough to run a fridge. I have a 115w panel that I use to run a small dometic fridge and it works well if it's sunny. I could probably get away with less, but I doubt half as much, which is what you have. On the other hand, if you're only going to run it for a weekend, get the largest AGM battery you can fit in the space you have and recharge it when you get home.

Get an MPPT charge controller because you want to maximize the output from those small panels.

Here are the fridge and charge controller I have and am happy with.

I've been living in my jeep Cherokee for about 2 months and have this . I have it in the passenger seat floor. Its an actual freezer/fridge, that's nicely low power and battery saver mode. Great for ice cream across Nevada. :-D

If I ever have a passenger its really light and easy to pop in the back and they have a seat.

I tried the classic way, the way others have suggested and it would just not get the air out of the system. So I bought this and it has worked fantastic for me. I've used it multiple time now on my and friends bike and it works great.

First, my needs:

1. Power 1/2 LED monitors at ~30W each
   
2. Occasionally charge laptop
   
3. LED lighting
   
4. 2 Maxxair fans
   
   
   Second, the components:
   
   Panels/controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA
   
   Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACKDGPS
   
   Y connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4ELRSH
   
   Cable entry https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSEXW2S
   
   2 Gauge wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD2756W
   
   Terminal rings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V9UWB2
   
   Crimp tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00
   
   Terminal block https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
   
   Busbars https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091VHLW4
   
   Inverter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U
   
   Vent vans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU
   
   Monitors https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PB278Q/
   
   Puck lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSAR12
   
   Strip lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQOV13G
   
   Fuse box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
   
   Killswitch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W
   
   Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFJW1SB
   
   Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8KP16E
   
   
   I know my needs are fairly minimal. I see opportunity to grow with this system if I ever need to. I’m excited to lay it out with the actual parts soon and begin thinking about it in the real world.
   
   Any suggestions, info or questions are completely welcome. I know little about electrical, only what I’ve learned from reddit and youtube. Thanks pals and again /u/StolidSentinel for the help and replies to all my messages and questions!

Camping world, in general, is grossly overpriced on a lot of things.

I'm gonna be honest and say that fan looks like shit. Sorry bro. I'm just not sure id want to skimp on such an essential part of the build, and when you compare it to the batteries and plywood, it's really not that pricey. For me, it's essential to keep moisture out with some good air flow.

This doozy has treat me pretty well. The rain cover is much sleeker and can be up while driving. That's shweet. Maybe I'd have gotten the remote. Idk.

the furnace is a suburban 16k BTU RV furnace- This one

I really would love one of those propex heaters, their sized more appropriately for a van and draw less electricity for the fan but are soooo much more expensive. When i got mine it was about 320$ and I just decided it wasn't worth spending twice as much for a bit more efficiency.

This is also where the spray foam comes in, in my mind, closed cell spray foam is the best insulation option. R6 per inch and no moisture/condensation worries. However it is was probably 400$ to insulate the van which is probably 4x as much as it needs to be. That said, it feels pretty well insulated considering the doors dont have any and it does hold head fairly well as the furnace cycles.

The ford vans have such shitty wonky framing with openings and cavities that it was difficult to seal everything, which inevitably left gaps that moisture could get into those cavities which sorta defeats the purpose. However modern sprinter/transits or even the chevy cargo vans dont have that and would 'take' spray foam much better.

Yeah, I thought anyone interested in the thread would be! But as soon as I posted the original version with amazon links, it was auto-deleted. Weird.

Oh well, here are my products:

Solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OMTAV6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2R53I6ASRE7TH&psc=1

Charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IMF9F8IHLJ6EN&psc=1

House battery: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SSBQ/3478PLT/03321.oap?year=1967&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=1332302&ck=Search_03321_1332302_-1&pt=03321&ppt=C0005

Battery isolator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2UYT4LFVI14AN

Van fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I1Q9S1UN7Z94H7&psc=1

LED lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JF2A6G/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2MBPA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IK1ERB55YT6QX&psc=1

Busbar: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-MiniBus-Grounding-Terminal/dp/B0058GA4IO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1467345205&sr=8-11&keywords=6+terminal+bus

Main line fuses (inline): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WZHE3A4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=ICS8GYAQNUJV1&psc=1

I have done a lot of research on this, and in my view, the [Dometic CF-018DC] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030G7Y64/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), which costs less than $500 new, is the best DC fridge/freezer on the market.

Doesn't take up a lot of space, runs cold and holds up to 23 12 oz cans of soda.

Hope this is helpful!

That is, with almost complete certainty, due to air in your lines, Those are classic symptoms. Buy a hand vacuum brake bleeder and bleed your brakes! Might as well replace the fluid whilst you're at it, since you're going to need some on hand in case you need to top it up.

No, I haven't. I have a boat that has these hatches, but I have not installed or serviced them yet.

I bought a Maxxfan deluxe for my van. https://www.amazon.com/Maxxair-00-05100K-MaxxFan-Ventillation-Opening/dp/B002OWAIB8
because I wanted the fan feature. I haven't installed it yet, though. Maybe I'll put in one of each, so I can have a good intake and an output for circulation.

If I just wanted an openable skylight, I would go with the marine hatch. Marine hatches are significantly more expensive - they are built to be stronger, more durable, and water proof. You can even walk ontop of them. They need to perform all these functions to be able to prevent a boat from sinking. They also can be big enough, and open wide enough for you to climb in and out of. Would be cool to be able to go up on your roof - from inside the van.

I imagine that installation is about the same. Cut a hole in the roof ( scary ). Apply liberal amounts of marine sealant, screw it in to adequate backing boards.

Use an airbnb place, cook for week, clean up. Pack my van. Roll

The fridge I use, love it

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-018DC-Portable-Refrigerator-Personal/dp/B0030G7Y64/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1474840297&sr=8-12&keywords=Dometic

> Fantastic vent fan insulating pillow

like this?

Here is what we had in our class-B Sprinter RV. Simple, and an easy install, and good quality product. In our class-A motor home, we have these.

The price differences are basically features (remote, automatic shutdown when rain is detected, power opening, etc.)

I'm on solar only, so conventional AC is pretty much out of the question. IMO, even the swamp cooler route would result in too much wet air in the van. I use an [Endless Breeze] (https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Vent-01100WH-Endless-Breeze/dp/B0000AY2Z6), a Maxxair and keep the doors open to provide a (sometimes minimal) breeze. I keep the open doors on the opposite side of the sun, or put up my canopy to keep it shady. Just remember that you'll probably want some mosquito netting to keep the bugs out when your doors are open.

My secret it to avoid humid areas in the summer (usually east of the Mississippi). It makes the days and (especially) nights much more bearable. Still, it will get hot some days. Your body adapts after the first few weeks and it's honestly not that bad thereafter. Source: Lots of time spent in Escalante, Mojave & Southern Arizona in June/July.

You can buy a 12v fan that runs off of a cigarette charger in a car. Then you can buy a $100 deep cycle marine battery and run the fan for almost two weeks. You can also use the battery to charge your phone. All in, for less than $150, you can charge your phone and have a fan for over a week without power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SS62PS/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLX78/

I'm getting super lost trying to calculate amp usage and determine necessary battery size. I've read the FAQ a few times and it's not helpful for cases I keep encountering.

For example, this fan doesn't list watts anywhere, not on Amazon, not on Home Depot, not on the manufacturer website. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/ Some comments say it uses "3 amps" others "5", I have no idea how to use this information.

Then on things like a fridge (Dometic CFX 50US), it says: Rated input power (AC) 50 W . Does this mean it uses 4.16 amps an hour? This would mean 100 AH per 24 hours. Although Amazon comments say it uses much lower than this, one person saying 18AH a day. Stuff like this is super confusing because I don't know what number is accurate or what I'm supposed to plan for. Should I plan for 100AH? 18? 50? 69?^(nice)

Does anyone have some videos that help explain this because I am so confused.

Edit: changed link to point to 12 volt fan instead of 120 volt fan. My bad. Also, it's fine to wire a solar panel directly to a fan. The varying power levels won't be an issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-SP570804-Go-Gear-Oscillating/dp/B003SS62PS

Could be wired directly to

https://www.amazon.com/ECO-WORTHY-Solar-Panel-Watt-Module/dp/B00OZC3X1C

You'd have to leave a window cracked and just Velcro the panel to your roof when you park. When the sun comes out, the fan comes on.

Probably your best bet:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005X97OHA/

That won't work, unfortunately.
A solar panels' 'nameplate' power is only produced in cool weather and the panel pointed to the (overhead) sun.

Enter San Diego into http://pvwatts.nrel.gov/, change "DC System Size (kW):" to "0.1" (100W), and change "Tilt (deg):" to "" (horizontal), on the last page you'll see the monthly" production under "AC Energy (kWh)", divide by 31 to get the daily numbers (the juli/aug 16kWh is 500Wh/day), and your 60W cooler needs 60W x 24hr = 1440Wh/day (thermoelectric coolers are very inefficient).
More expensive are compressor coolers, 3A average according to "customer comments", and (they say) it will 'freeze' stuff in 1 hour, if your "need to keep something cool" can handle ambient temperatures like can/bottle beverages you can install a timer to run it only at let's say 11:00-13:00 for lunch and 16:00-22:00 for dinner.

>so I have decided to use whatever I will have for solar system as my starting battery

Bad choice, a 'starter' battery is designed to give a very high 500A? 'starting' current (thin plates for a very large surface area), a 'deep cycle' has fewer but much thicker plates for a current of ~1/10th the capacity (12A from a 120Ah battery).

There are ways to charge the 'domestic' battery from the car alternator, example (pdf) uses diodes, to find out if a particular setup will damage the deep-cycle I suggest you google-fu RV/boat-users websites (the -shops* only want to sell things).

If you like electronics, or know someone (highschool tech dept.?), a small CC-CV buck-boost converter's input can be connected directly (via a fuse) to the (12V) panel, the output, via a diode, to the starter battery, the "CC" (constant current) will limit that to whatever you set it (0,5A?) and the "CV" can be set to 13.8V? (max starter battery voltage), that will keep it 'topped up' from the solar panel without draining the domestic battery.

You do need a 'battery charge controller', an MPPT is recommended.

Edit: word

You can get a manual opening version that is much lower profile and let's you control how open you want it to be.

But as mentioned in other comments the limitation is that you can't use it in the rain and it's pretty unstable on the lid if open while driving.

Personally I would go with the white Maxxair fan because I don't think it is all that noticeable. Plenty of white work vans have stuff on the top. If you really want stealth, get a used ladder rack and stick a ladder on there to help hide the fan and disguise yourself :)

It's a small circular vent fan: https://www.amazon.com/Ventline-VP-543-Smoke-Roof-Vent/dp/B00407CK5W

It's over my shower area where I'll need a vent for the propane tankless hot water heater and help dry out the shower

The black ones definitely let in less light, but if you are simply looking to insulate and block light cheaply and without installing anything these work great.

I just put a proper RV propane furnace in my build. I live mostly year round in a damp, cool climate. I used a catalytic heater (Mr.Buddy) in my old van and the condensation from the unvented propane was out of control. I couldn't use the Mr. Buddy here in the winter, it's just too damp and humid.

I haven't seen any builds that have installed a furnace that vents to the outside yet other than mine. I'd be interested in seeing some others.

I bought [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B2ATA1M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480098465&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rv++suburban+furnace+nt-16seq)furnace on amazon for $350. It's 16,000 BTU and it's the smallest I could find. If you use a BTU calculator you can figure out how many BTU you need to heat your space. Mine only needs about 600 BTU but this is the smallest furnace I could find. It uses 2 watts to keep the fan running. I also had a horizontal propane tank mounted under the van. We installed the furnace ourselves and had to cut a hole for the vent into the side of the van. We still haven't hooked up the gas line, so I can't tell you how it works yet.

My old van had no opening windows and only one roof vent without a fan. It wasn't enough to vent the Mr.Buddy. Maybe the Olympian is better. Also, this climate is very wet (PNW), probably depends where you plan to spend most of your time.

Fantastic Vent for his roof.

https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Vent-ABS-LID-Create/dp/B0027XAN78/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1480386811&sr=1-1&keywords=fantastic+vent

Ya, I got this maxxfan, and its awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OW5JIU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2UU8RSRECPQHN&coliid=I2LUBUXBM72U8S&psc=1

I sat and watched it through a bad thunderstorm in Tennessee, and no rain came in. Love this thing.

Is that like a normal fridge with Freon and a compressor, or is it the gas absorption style like what you'd find in an RV? Just curious since Dometic makes portable gas absorption refrigerators/freezers that look similar to what you've got. https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-080AC110-Portable-Refrigerator-Capacity/dp/B005X97OHA?th=1 Not sure what the 11 liter one draws, but the largest one draws 7 amps at 12VDC

Without a generator your only option is battery power. A small fan like this one should run for around 40-50 hours on a fully charged car battery.

Reviews on this fan claim it can run up to two nights on six D-cell batteries.

You can look into these.. http://amzn.to/2qlqu0h Not sure how tall they are but seems like a smaller option.

How about 330$? Ive had this for 3 years now, works a champ. I keep it as a fridge but for a few months i cranked up to freezer temps and could even keep ice cream solid.

https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CF-018-D65-B-Portable-Refrigerator-Personal/dp/B0136TQ65Y

Tire Pressure Monitoring system.

Kitchen Paper Holder Hanger Tissue Roll Towel Rack Bathroom Toilet Sink Door Hanging Organizer Storage Hook Holder Rack

Touch Screen Backup Camera Dash Cam

Bluetooth Receiver/FM Transmitter/Car Charger with Bluetooth 4.2, Car Locator, App Support, 2 USB Ports, PowerIQ, AUX Output, and USB Drive to Play MP3 Files

Wall-Mounted Paper Towel Holder


3-Chamber Soap and Shower Dispenser


12 Volt Oscillating Fan

Something like this should work for a sedan: https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CDF-11-Smallest-Portable-Refrigerator/dp/B005X97OHA

Lived in Madison, WI last winter in my RV. You will need heat tape around your black water tank and piping. As for the water hose, heat tape with insulation for that or buy an extra fancy hose with it already inside. There is also black tank antifreeze we used that we found at Menards for a couple bucks. To go around the outside of the rv you will need either some sort of skirting, or insulation panels. The goal is not to let wind gusts under your rv. We used clear duct tape and white tarp around our entire trailer held down with PVC pipes and cinder blocks. Inside if you have a patio door you will need to heat tape around it because it will freeze shut and the only way to open it will be with a blow dryer. Plastic window shrink wrap all windows, and put a blanket over doors you don't use. Use these vent pillows.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024E6QX0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509510577&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rv+vent+pillow&dpPl=1&dpID=31oBzadZDDL&ref=plSrch.

Make sure your heater works (ours had a frog in it and had to be replaced). This will get you through a winter with sub zero temps.

If its above freezing during the day and barely below freezing at night you won't need to be this extreme. Heat tape and/or leaving the water run just a bit would do the trick.

Maxxair 00-06200K MaxxFan Ventillation Fan with Smoke Lid and Manual Opening Keypad Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OW5JIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WmimDb9JE62K0

[MaxxFan 6200k](maxxair 00-06200k maxxfan ventillation fan with smoke lid and manual opening keypad control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OW5JIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nHrRCbC04J1EH)

The web page says it uses 1 1/2 amps. I have a Maxx Air vent fan that uses .1 amps on the lowest speed and is inaudible. I'm sure it is fewer cfm at .1 amps than the 1 1/2.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxair-00-05100K-MaxxFan-Ventillation-Opening/dp/B002OWAIB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480448368&sr=8-1&keywords=maxxair+fan

I just got this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SS62PS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yuIQyb9A1XSPY
Then connect it to one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KNPFUUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0xIQyb8R6CDQ8
This model fan doesn't seem to have any speed control, just on or off and oscillate on or off, but it does the job.
https://youtu.be/Kvb3lxHHFJU

First off you don't necessarily want to use any screws... With the maxair, you cut a square hole and fit in the trim piece. To cut a hole you just need tinsnips and a screwdriver/knife and a hammer/rock to make the first hole. I wouldn't let anyone take a saw to it and put metal shavings all over your house... Just go buy some tin snips, $5.99: http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-straight-cut-aviation-tin-snips-90718.html . Cuts through like butter. Power tools are not always better.


Trace your hole and cut, as long as you have your butyl tape and dicor sealant and fan you will see that spending $375 is wholly unnecesary and hazardous imo. You could end up with a bunch of leaky & unnecessary screw holes, metal shavings all over, a hole cut too big, they probably won't know how to work with the ribs correctly... You need to cut it like this: http://www.seanstoops.com/img/build/build_3_.jpg so that it will sit flush with the roof. Very simple and clever. More leakproof design. http://www.seanstoops.com/2016/01/26/roof-vent/

Unless you live in the desert I suggest a maxxair. I'm getting this one. It lets in light, works in the rain, even while all the way down.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I calculated that I would be using ~75a per day and everything will be drawing 12v DC.

I bought

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Solar-Starter-Wanderer/dp/B06X41H7Z1

I'm planning on running

https://www.engelcoolers.com/mt35f-u1.html

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OWAIB8

• Fridge 1.5 amps *24=36amps
  
• Fan low speed .3 amps*12=3.6 amps
  
• Fan medium speed 2 amps *12=24 amps
  
• Cell phone 1 amp *6 hours=6 amps
  
  
  Total =~75amps daily.
  
  I figure the panels will generate between 75~90 amps per day.
  
  I will have 200 amps of deep cycle sealed acid as my bank.
  
  I don't plan on connecting to the alternator, the solar electrical will be isolated.
  
  My question is, is there any need for me to get an inverter if everything I'm running is 12v DC?

We're installing one of these. Will let you know how it goes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2ATA1M

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00407CK5W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

I haven't purchased or used it, but this one is cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027XAN78/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3C40WVWALRSCI&coliid=I21GXH27DG2453

You could. This maxair fan uses a little less than 5 amps on high according to the questions section so you're going to have high drain (relatively short run time) but it's possible.

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Vent-ABS-LID-Create/dp/B0027XAN78/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=fantastic+fan&qid=1551384781&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-520789-1440W-Electric-Element/dp/B003G9G4X4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VGQ0HV4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_56MfAbBE9CM1S

A roof vent with a cover that has a reverse mode for exhaust should do the trick as long as you can open a window elsewhere in the van to pull fresh air from. This is what I went with.

Here is the link for the MaxFan. https://amzn.com/B0050EEO94

It's very quiet on the lower settings, it had a digital speed control.

One thing to consider with the Dickinson is that it's a manual control furnace, that is, you have to constantly adjust the heat source depending on the heat level you want. It doesn't have a separate thermostat, like you have in a conventional house, where you can set it and forget it. Plus, the Dickinson is quite costly.

I put a Suburban Nt-16Seq furnace (16K btu) in my tiny house. It pulls combustion air from outside and vents outside, so only room air gets recirculated over the heat exchanger, no fumes inside. The BIG plus, it's controlled from a wall mounted thermostat, so if I want the house 70 degrees, it stays an even 70 degrees and I don't have to play with any other controls.

Here's a link, plus is less costly then the Dickinson:
https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-2438ABK-Nt-16Seq-Furnace-Black/dp/B00B2ATA1M

/u/slipperyfingers speaks the truth. Humidity is the enemy in enclosed quarters like you will be using. Penetrating the roof isn't hard, just use a quality sealant and take your time. Lots of folks swear by these...Fan-Tastic Vent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027XAN78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jSNrzbETDEFZZ


Ninja edit: Fixed my crappy reply