Reddit mentions: The best rv leveling & stabilization products

DON'T TAKE AN ANIMAL TO VAN DWELL. Seriously, find someone to watch it. It will cause you major problems. What are you going to do with a cat 90% of the time? You can't leave it in the rig on a hot day.

First priority one everything has to be small to tiny. Simplify as much as possible.

Roof box - I like it. Can be a great way to add more storage.

Those setups seem neat but if you can cook at the rear hatch couldn't you cook anywhere? We just have small stadium chairs and cook outside the van on the ground. Like these:
https://kelty.com/lowdown-chair/

I'm using a butane and propane stove right now.
https://www.amazon.com/GS-3400P-Portable-Backpacking-Emergency-Preparedness/dp/B01HQRD8EO
Pretty cheap and good options for fuel. Also fairly compact and well packaged.

We also have a MSR Windburner Stove - good for fast and easy hot drinks. Most expensive fuel you can use though.

For water I find just do crystal geyser 1 gallon jugs are simple, disposable and easy to replace.

A poo kit is critical, for me that includes a folding shovel for digging cat holes when boodocked.
https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Gorge-Folding-Shovel-22-41578/dp/B000WZCSTO

I like my rig to have an inflator kit and tire chains.

Leveling blocks are worth the space to me. We carry 4 which gives me 3 leveling options.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44505-Leveling-Blocks-pack/dp/B00480BWBE

You'll need a dishset and pots. I like vacuum mug for drink ware.

I'm a big fan on dedicated headlamps next to each persons sleep spot.

I like power bricks for cell phone charging.

Battery operated column candles. I got mine from Ikea but have seen similar at Costco. I like the warm tone of them, they turn on and off with a shake, so they're really nice to have bedside. Bright but not glaring. They feel like having candles, without the risk of burning down the camper.

Oh, and OMG, this thing is a must for RVs, tent trailers, etc: Andersen Hitches 3604 x2 | 2-Pack Camper Leveler & Chock Set | Best Camper Leveling Kit | RV Leveling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pMMjzb05ST2TK

I don't know how anyone levels anything without it. Worth every penny for how quickly it makes setup.

The Coleman two sided camp sink was also a good buy.

...I could go on. I love camping gear.

I also have a kid and a popup. http://i.imgur.com/Cltv8qq.jpg. we love it. I plan on doing a spring over for more ground clearance. Yours looks great. After you use it a couple of times you will learn what works and what's not needed. Here are a few of my recommendations. The bal leveler is great https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA. This and installing a T level gauge on the tongue will make leveling the trailer super easy. We got a bunch of plastic bins from home depot to store all our supplies in. They are all the same so the stack and work great for storage. If you know you can fill the water tank at our near your camp site tow it empty and fill it there. That will save a lot of dead weight. If I can think of more I'll post again. Enjoy it man. Camping with the family is great. Good memories will be made

The concept is pretty simple -- you dig a trench, line it with filter fabric, and fill the bottom couple inches up with gravel. Then you set your pipe in, establishing a 1° slope towards where it exits, and fill it the rest of the way up with gravel. Fold the end of the filter fabric over the top of the gravel trench, and then cover the top with whatever decorative landscaping you like. In my case I made a rock garden over the part of it, and a flagstone path over the other portion. This write-up on WikiHow is a good primer.

Some things to note:

• Some people will tell you to put your pipe in with the perforations facing up. Those people are wrong. Water will fill the gravel trench until it enters the drain pipe through the perforations, and the lower they are the better a job your drain will do of de-watering the soil above it.
  
• You can use corrugated pipe or PVC to build your drain. Each has pros and cons, but the upshot is that corrugated is cheaper, quicker, and easier to install. Some versions even come with a large-diameter filter sock packed full of styrofoam peanuts already wrapping them, so all you have to do is dig your trench and chuck it in. Rigid PVC pipe is harder to install, since you have to dig perfectly straight trenches and cut it to length and attach fittings at every turn. However, it will be easier to set a slope with it, it will last longer (smooth pipe walls mean that sediment can't find an easy niche to collect in) and if it does clog, you can snake it clean without it getting shredded like corrugated would.
  
• Setting the pipe at a slope is important for longevity of the system. You can install it flat, but it will silt up faster if you do. It's also something you can't really eyeball, and traditional methods for setting a slope are a PITA. I rigged up a cheap and simple method to ensure I was getting the right slope by purchasing one of these trailer leveling gauges and attached it to my level in order to get a precise slope measurement.
  
• If you're using PVC, be sure to include a cleanout somewhere so you can maintain and repair the system. Depending on how you build it (corrugated vs. PVC, slope, filter fabric installation) the drain can last from 10 to 30 years before it silts up and stops working, but with a cleanout you can extend that lifespan further.
  
• Sketch out the routing for your drain and use your measurements to figure out how much material you'll need. If the drain close to your foundation, you can also measure the amount of grade change you have to work with by measuring from the ground to the top of your foundation or the first course of siding. On a flat lot, you may not be able to get 1° of slope all the way through.
  
• You're going to need a lot of gravel. If you're hand-digging the trench, figure that it's going to end up about a foot wide. That means that for every foot of depth, you need two 50-lb bags per foot of length. I ended up putting about 2000 lbs of gravel in mine, and that was before I added the rock garden on top. If you have a truck, you can save some money here by buying in bulk from a landscape supply house rather than in bags.
  
• You're also going to have a lot of extra dirt afterwards. If you need to regrade around the house to establish positive drainage, now is the time. If you don't have a place to put fill dirt, you'll need to have it hauled away. In my case, my neighbor needed all the fill I could give him for his own landscaping projects, so I didn't have to worry about it.

First item isn't recovery, but it is the number one item I always recommend. I've been in the position to need a fire extinguisher when one wasn't available. Vehicle was a total loss and it was a long walk out of the woods.

https://www.amazon.com/21006287MTL-Kidde-Automotive-Extinguisher-Disposable/dp/B077KGCD6Z/

For recovery gear, there are several nice kits that make a great start.

https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-15104-28-000lb-Recovery/dp/B00426HZXS

Then I'd get a trail jack

https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-2722-Universal-Trail-Jack/dp/B001CF3JFA

Finally, yes, the kinetic ropes are GREAT. But I'd first have a winch as it is much more versatile. Rope:

https://www.amazon.com/Bubba-Rope-176680RDG-Breaking-Strength/dp/B007HYR85W

We toyed with that idea but the amount of hardware and space it was going to take up just wasn't worth it.

When camping, we can usually position the van in a way that is level-ish, or with our heads slightly raised. It's actually not too hard to do this with a small van in most boondocking sites. We can double our flexibility by sleeping with our heads on the opposite side of the bed as well.

You can also get trailer levelers like these which are micro-adjustable. I've seen them used for tow behinds quite successfully.

But the bed idea sounds cool if you can manage it!

I built off of the harbor freight trailer as well.While the tongue wheel is great for moving it around, Don't make the mistake I did and use it as a support while you are in the trailer, I bent the frame of the tongue! I bought kick down jacks that are just great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008G5AA7E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

oh yeah, and if he slaps one of these on a flat part of his saw, it is great for training a person to get nice, level backcuts and pies.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25543-T-Level/dp/B000EDSSDO/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=52VWB27B15RKJRTB0J66

I used one for log home construction, (cutting in windows) but decided to keep it on my saw because it was fun to check myself to see how level and square i could get my saw.

I don’t have a 5th wheel, but a travel trailer.

In my experience I have to chock one side of the trailer tight to eliminate the wiggle.
So using one of those chocks that fit between the tires and you clamp down I would anticipate will resolve your issue.
My 20’ is a single axle and I use this.

Mechanically I could only see the tripod as helping with vertical and not lateral motions.

Excellent choice. You could have saved money and gone with another product but you did it properly. :D

Here are some items I have that I love using;

LevelMate Pro

Progressive Industries Surge Protector

Andersen Jack Blocks

I also want to purchase the Anderson Leveling kit as I have a standard leveling kit and it sucks.

Any first time plans? RV site near home or living in the backyard?

I also noticed that your rear stabilsers do not appear to have sand pads. These help distribute the load better and you don't sink. I would also recommend one for your hitch. Also, in of itself that wood blocking is going to be rocky.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Stabilizing-Base-Pads-Cross-Frame/dp/B0024E6Z9U/

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-1400700340-Footplate-Pin/dp/B005DLLVMW/


But as another stated, I also use the BAL X chocks and really like them. Although.... a little too much side to side motion in the ocean can cause them to work themselves out. There is a fine line between too tight and not tight enough.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel-Stabilizer-Handle-28012/dp/B002XLHUQG/

Steadyfast and Camco Stack Jacks work for us pretty good. Not sure if it would ever get rock solid like a sticks and bricks.

For long term stabilization I would look at these- Stabilization Jacks

Clothes storage in the bunks is interesting. For folded clothes I would look at bins/baskets or lightweight plastic dressers. For hanging clothes I would look at installing removable clothes rod(s)

Hope these ideas help!

Like /u/Herbie555 said they usually the same thickness and they snap together. Here is an Amazon link to a Camco set. Camco makes a TON of stuff for the RV world and a lot of it can be really useful for overlanding as well.

I use a tire leveling jack like this: https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=trailer+tire+jack&qid=1565620404&s=gateway&sr=8-9

It's a little more manual labor, but there is no guessing and checking if it's level, then moving the vehicle. The tire is very securely in place, so you don't have to chock that, and it can handle a fairly decent slope.

I don't think it would work very well for an RV or something heavy, but for a light trailer it works well.

Nice. I recommend getting some jack pucks makes it way easier to jack up without messing up your frame rail. I got these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WRMSHP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RQLPBbR2K63NA

Not a solution, but it might help you get there: Get a bulls eye level to help you get it flat.

Suspect Amazon will be your new best friend.

sample x chock for tandem axle trailer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XLHUQG/

sample stabilizer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P2TWBE

sample hose carrier https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAU762Z

Most trailers only have stabilizing jacks. They just prevent movement while you are walking around the trailer. We bought these levelers. They are super easy to use.

Youtube video

When we had our trailer these things made it super easy to level it up.

Ever though of buying them online, like here?.

I am not as handy as you, but isn't that what you would need (what I linked to)?

Nice work, btw. Looks great. I am insanely jealous.

The two jacks in the rear are like this.

The bases for those jacks are like this.

The jack in the front is like [this] (http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m6gEYG4Pn04KSHCR1cztNNA.jpg)

I was about to go with one of the outside tailgate hinge mounts, but decided to do a tad more digging and found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Dominion-OffRoad-4-Door-Wrangler-Hi-Lift/dp/B00DPN5TYG

I love it. Subtle and secure and most importantly - keeps the jack out of the weather.

I believe my house is approx 10,000 lbs. I was wrong about my jacks though, they are actually super-simple Camco Aluminum Stack Jacks, four of them rated for 6,000 lbs each;

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-44560-Olympian-Aluminum-Stack/dp/B000760FWU

They work very well at leveling my place. The house definitely does move in reaction to inside movement, and you can feel high winds and minor earthquakes.

That is advantageous to me, however, as if we get the massive subduction quake we are overdue for. A little bit of flex is better than none, as far as I can tell. Other than that, I don't know much about the various jack options, so hopefully someone with more info will comment.

If you have an RV fridge, keeping that level is probably one of the important factors (see http://www.doityourselfrv.com/know-rig-level-enough-rv-refrigerator-work-properly/), and you may want to place a bullseye level there to make sure that is level and not just on the floor.

Something like: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25573-Bullseye-Level/dp/B000EDSSDY

This. +1 for the boom attachment that lets your put your camera almost anywhere.

Also it doesn't hurt to attach a cheap bubble level to your rig so you can confirm that your camera is horizontal.

Add a hairband and a binder clip to attach your tether cable to your shirt to ease the tension of the weight of the cable pulling at the back of your head and you've pretty much nailed my setup.

Not exactly sure what these are called, but many campers have them. They keep things stable when you are moving around inside. Put a drill with a socket on the end of it, and you are mobile to stable in about 2 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Eaz-Lift-Stabilizing-Scissor-Trailers-48830/dp/B00IKKS4W8?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

I want to say years ago...when I was growing up, we have an older prowler.

I may be wrong, but I believe it did NOT have scissor jacks. It have something like those V's pointing down. I then used something like this (below link) to put under the V and screw it up to meet the V...making it a stabilizer

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Olympian-Aluminum-Stabilize-Position/dp/B000760FWU/ref=zg_bs_3147821011_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7CSVX602VG780PZ9NERC

Two options are:

1. Valterra RV Stabilizer
   
2. Camco Aluminum Stabilizer
   
   Tuck either one up under the frame of the camper. You might try different spots to see where they work best. Usually the corners are what get stablized in travel trailers.

I switched us over to the Anderson levelers and love them. FWIW, were in a 31’ Apex.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_fH9MDbV7X16X9

This would be a great time to purchase a x-chock. If installed correctly tires will not move.

X-Chock Wheel Stabilizer - Pair - One Handle - 28012 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XLHUQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O4MSCbWNPTA9A

Do yourself a huge favor and buy this instead - Trailer Tire Leveler

Bolt some of these on, or weld them, to help keep it stable when not attached to the vehicle.

Ohh and I wanted to share this incase you wanted a bit more stability. huge difference.

Look up the "Bal RV leveler". I spent a couple of years driving on and off of blocks until I found this thing. Look for one somewhere at a decent price and then grab one. You can pretty much pull into any unlevel lot, toss that thing in and be level in minutes. That used to be the most frustrating part of the journey for me.

https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=32ACOBN2CM89R&keywords=bal+leveler&qid=1564579078&s=gateway&sprefix=bal%3B+%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-3

Best investment you will make.

For a few dollars more this is the one I got. It keeps it up out of the way but still easily accessible. https://www.amazon.com/Dominion-OffRoad-4-Door-Wrangler-Hi-Lift/dp/B00DPN5TYG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=dominion+offroad+jk+jack+mount&qid=1564931064&s=gateway&sprefix=dominion+off&sr=8-3

I use leveling ramps kinda like these: https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S

Or sometimes cut up 2x10s.

But I don't need it very level, and even like the bed raised a bit at one end.

Personally I am a fan of the Andersen camper leveler ( https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitches-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=andersen+camper+leveler&qid=1564574872&s=gateway&sprefix=Andersen+cam&sr=8-14)

Thanks for the detailed reply! I'm considering four corners of scissor-style jacks, if nothing but for wind stability.

Most trailers have rear stabilizers, did you use them? Larger trailers have them in the front as well. You can also buy separate stabilizers. They make small ones to place under the step. I bought a larger one to add to the stability under the side bed in mine.
Here

POR15 is worth it.

Then buy some of these

Many people use 4 scissor jacks on the four corners. It helps levelling the trailer, stops the swaying and takes weight off of the axles. Here's one version from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Stabilizer-Scissor-Jack/dp/B0049ORI1C

You can place big patio blocks under the jacks if your not on concrete to keep them from sinking into the grass.

https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S these.

https://www.amazon.com/BAL-28050-Light-Trailer-Leveler/dp/B000BH5MAA

There's the cheaper other ones toward the bottom of the page.

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Rubber-Jack-Pads-Slotted/dp/B06WRMSHP2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pinch+weld&qid=1572230069&s=books&sr=1-3-catcorr

Look for a single axel locking chock or a Bal single axle leveling jack. This will reduce movement from the wheels moving.
BAL 28050 Light Trailer Tire Leveler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PgjnDbAFSK55S

BAL 28020 Single Axle Tire Chock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UGPEJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MhjnDbYSRYTW1

I’m adding these to my trailer for my rc airplanes. This may work for you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008G5AA7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_awH7BbX94MJCE

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Rubber-Jack-Pads-Slotted/dp/B06WRMSHP2/

closest to a-typical i have done so far doesn't really count, but the Dominion OffRoad Jack Mount on my JK.

Its sort of a-typical as its inside and out of the way, and I don't see it used often. Works for me as i have a hard top, keeps it out of sight from thieves.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Leveling-Blocks-Hydraulic-44505/dp/B00480BWCI

They're basically giant legos that you stack under the lower 2 wheels and drive on.