A good drill is key. It's silly to stick to one brand (many people have the bs brand loyalty fetish and I'm not sure why). You'll also want to get a variety of drill bits to go with drill. Go to garage sales and start hoarding nails, screws, etc at cheap prices.

My recommendations below are based on at least 5 hours of research and shopping around. There are some things I'd probably add to the list (like a hand saw and dremel) but this takes care of a lot of your big needs. I own everything on the list and am pleased with it all, especially in terms of a performance for value ratio.

The key is know what you want then shop around / wait for the best prices (track prices in spreadsheet). Use google shopping to compare prices and see who price matches plus has best ebates or Ibotta cash back % + consider buying gift cards at a discount on Raise or elsewhere to further maximize savings (or just go with whatever credit card gets best points on particular site). Add Google Chrome app "Honey" to have coupon codes auto applied (eliminates time searching for them).

Also, I'd strongly consider getting a credit card with a decent bonus that will essentially help you get these items for free (assuming you can achieve the bonus spend with money you're already paying on existing bills / monthly purchases - it's a no-brainer in this case) - Chase's Sapphire Preferred is a good place to start ($500 bonus for 4K spend in 3 months)

Consider waiting until Black Friday (and from Jan to end of feb) for the good deals.

Drill (get a decent to really good one - you'll use it often)

• This one goes on sale for $99 on BF though you may be able to find it elsewhere for that price or cheaper now:
  
• Makita XPH102 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 1/2" Hammer Driver-Drill Kit (3.0Ah): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L84A470/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Wv.BzbSZ9FGJH
  
  Circular Saw
  
• cordless is usually unnecessary - this one goes on sale for ~$70 on BF:
  
• Hitachi C7ST 15-Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QESNMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vy.BzbT32M7T2
  
• honestly I haven't used this as much as a muti-tool but many DIY blogs say you need one... not sure I agree but it nice to know I have it
  
  Multi-tool
  
• This one goes on sale for ~$99 on BF - there are cheaper ones but I like this one a lot and it has a lot of power and attachments:
  
• Rockwell RK5151K 4.2 Amp Sonicrafter F80 Oscillating Multi-Tool with Duotech Oscillation Angle Technology and 10-Piece Accessory kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HD4EQTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EA.BzbQ9KM4AQ
  
  Miter saw
  
• I've used this more than circular saw - it's much more accurate and fast for most jobs - went back and forth about getting a saw with a larger blade but ultimately decided 10in is enough for most jobs and I've been correct in that assumption so far:
  
• Hitachi C10FCE2 15-Amp 10-inch Single Bevel Compound Miter Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UF.Bzb0CFWDHT
  
• paid ~$99 by buying on Jet and getting their 15% off first three orders + Ibotta 5% cash back
  
  Respirator
  
• may seem like overkill but don't fuck with your lungs: GVS SPR457 Elipse P100 Half Mask Respirator, Medium and Large
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SIIBFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HD.BzbREVSMX6
  
  Horse (the 'roided out version)
  
• this has come in really handy for me as it often helps to get stuff done without extra help:
  
• Rockwell JawHorse Portable Material Support Station – RK9003 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XRFQKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0E.Bzb9V02GJV
  
  Sander (makes a huge difference): I've seen it in the low $40 range
  
• DEWALT D26441 2.4 Amp 1/4 Sheet Palm Grip Sander with Cloth Dust Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009WRKUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wW.Bzb3CAWTZ9

I'm a professional carpenter and general contractor, and from my personal experience and the anecdotal evidence from the guys I regularly see, Bosch is of the best you can get for cordless tools nowadays. DeWalt used to be the go-to, but their quality has dropped considerably over the last 5-10 years. They still have some decent products, but I know of a lot of people who have had major issues with their drill chucks being off center.

This said, you kind of need a grab bag to get the best of each tool.

Here's my current setup, which is the same as quite a few contractors I work with:

• Bosch 18V impact driver/drill set. I've dropped my driver with a 6" bit attached directly onto the bit from 10' up, on concrete, and the entire thing was unscathed. Batteries last forever and charge very quickly.
  
  
• Festool jigsaw. Festool makes AMAZING products, but it's probably way overkill for most, and this Bosch model is a great second option I've seen used by many guys with a ton of success.
  
  
• Skil Mag 77 circular saw. This is the be all end all saw. It has enough torque to change the rotation of the earth. It's heavy, though, so a decent sidewinder might be your best bet. I would never use anything else, personally, though.
  
  
• Bosch compound sliding miter saw. I love this thing. You can put it flat up against a wall and still use the slider, which is a feature unique to them.
  
  
• DeWalt table saw. The major plus of this saw is that the rip fence is on a track, so both sides move together. I still never trust their gauges, but to know that both the front and back are equidistant from the blade 100% of the time is worth its weight in gold.
  
  
• DeWalt thickness planer. Never thought I'd buy one, and now I wouldn't be without one. With the combination of the above 3, you can pretty much make anything out of anything. Have a 5/4 board at the house but you need a 1x? 2 passes through the planer and you're set.
  
  
• Bosch Rotary Hammer. The demo master. It can hammer drill massive holes in concrete, or switch to hammer only mode to remove tile or glued on drywall particles. These are bulletproof.
  
  
• DeWalt orbital sander. Nothing fancy, as I don't do a ton of heavy sanding. Something to look for in these is the variable speed; makes jobs much easier.
  
  
• Bosch oscillating tool. Most brands are similar, and depending on your uses a corded model may be better. I have a second tool that uses these batteries so I have lots of backups (and they charge very quickly), and I often use it in places that running a cord would be a pain in the ass. This is great for trimming things that are immovable and can't be sawed: think door frame bottoms for new floors, baseboard trim to accommodate a new vent, drywall patching, anything. Love this thing.
  
  
• RotoZip spiral saw. Great for drywall, and there's a masonry style bit that works good for cutting pieces of tile (like around a faucet or control).
  
  
• Bosch planer. Again, nothing fancy and I definitely don't use it daily...but when you need a planer, there's not much else you can use.
  
  
  So there you go. Those are the ones that have gone through the ringer on a construction crew and have survived heavy abuse and regular moving/dropping without any signs of letting go. Some may be overkill for your situation, but they're what I've found to be best. I'm probably missing a few loose ends so look out for edits.

Yes, owned the sander ahead of time, but seriously, it is so so much better than the little ones that look like this. By better, I mean 'faster' and more efficient.

I'm the kind of person who doesn't want to spend tons of time on a project. I apply that to everything, like buying a mower with a wider cutting surface, a bigger washer/dryer, etc.

IMHO people underestimate how much time they lose by trying to save $20 here and there.

We got the white goods on sale at a big box store that was moving older inventory, so only paid $110. The cabinet was only about $40 on Overstock, and the floor tile was also in the sale section at the big box store, and only ran about $30...add a can of latex paint, spackle, grout and caulking for another $30...I guess it was about $210. We were just lucky with the sale, I guess...it is probably still do-able for $300 if you don't need to have the newest/latest and are happy to buy odd lots.

I've heard good things about Habitat for Humanity stores as well for finding bargains, but I've never been to one...perhaps someone can share?

Hands down the dewalt variable speed ROS
is your best bet. It's about $75 and for the money it is a work horse. I've literally have 100's of hours on mine and it is still running strong.

Granted Dewalt has some lemons, but if it works out of the box, you should be set. There are a number of positive reviews floating around the internet of the dewalt from people in the business that have put a lot of hours on it..

That's going to cover 95% or more of your sanding needs. The one trouble spot is corners; Your best bet is to avoid corners by disassembling the furniture. If you can't avoid them; I'd next recommend using some paint stripper and a scraper; or just a card scraper.

You could also get a 1/4 sheet sander which will get you closer to the corner, but it's not a great investment unless you are doing a lot of corner work. Also, it's not as quick as the ROS.

I have both models posted; I got the 1/4 sheet sander specifically to do corners/edges, and probably have less than 2 hours on it for that purpose; compared to 100's on the ROS.

Lastly; if you are painting it; I wouldn't worry too much about the corners; hit them up with some paper by hand to get through any layer of poly or laquer. The paint should cover the color difference pretty well.

Looks pretty easy. The basic steps are Sand, Seal, Stain, Finish

1. Sand - Get a Random Orbit Sander and some 100 and 220 grit pads for it. Use the 100 grit to sand everything down until it looks like new again, then use the 220 to sand it all nice and smooth. Do a good job here, because poor sanding will show up in the finished product. You don't need the random orbit sander for this and could do it by hand with a sanding block, but the machine will do a better job of sanding and do it in about 1/20 of the time.
   
   
2. Seal - I've used Minwax pre-stain conditioner. There are instructions for how to use it at the link
   
   
3. Stain - Get a nice oil based stain and apply it. I use a foam brush to apply the stain, wait about 30 seconds, then wipe it off with a cotton rag (old t-shirts work great). Wait a couple of days after staining before proceeding to step 4
   
   
4. Finish - This is always the hardest part, because it's the part that will show/bring out any imperfections that were left in the previous steps. You'll need to find a dust free room (floating dust in the air will land on the finish as its drying and become embedded in it). My favorite finish is wipe on poly because it applies easily with a rag (another old t-shirt, cut into strips), and doesn't leave runs or brush marks. I typically wipe on one coat a day, applying each coat on top of the previous one. I'll normally do three or four coats. Some people say you need to sand between coats but from my experience I don't see any difference between sanding and not sanding, except that sanding takes off some of the finish, requiring more coats and also requires cleaning the piece between coats.

I've had this dewalt for about a year and it's great. I'm not sure what the difference is to the one you linked but it's $20 cheaper. The speed control gives you a nice range between some pretty serious material removal and legitimately delicate work that I really ought to hand sand. In addition I've found the onboard dust management to be excellent, to the point where I've actually used it to clean up after other tools.

I don't really know. I've never had very good luck with the stones. I think the most useful dremel accessories for grinding away material is either use the sanding drums like these or use rasps/burrs coated in diamond or tungsten carbide like these.

For the brushes, the silver ones are steel or stainless steel, and the brown ones are usually brass. They'll have different effects on different materials based on the hardness. I've used the stainless brushes on steel before to clean it and kind of give it a texture.

For buffing/polishing of things like painted surfaces you'll want something like this or this and some sort of buffing compound. Most dremel accessory kits usually come with 1 or 2 buffing attachments.

Looking to buy a random orbit sander. Currently have my eye on the Bosch 3727DEVS and the Bosch 3725DEVS. I can't decide on whether the 5" or 6" will be better for my needs. Just curious on opinion here between 5" and 6" and what you guys use most or prefer. I realize a 6" would probably be better for big tables or slabs, which i don't really plan on doing too much of. But curious if there's any benefits of 6" on smaller work too.

The 2 sanders look pretty much identical, aside from the 5"/6" pads, so i thought maybe i could buy the 6" sander and a 5" replacement pad and be able to swap them out for my needs. Turns out there are a few more differences with the assembly than just that. It looks like I could still buy all the 5" parts for about $50-60, but i don't know if it's worth the hassle.

I think i'm currently leaning slightly toward the 5" model, but just curious if you guys have any input.

EDIT: I ended up buying the 5” 3725DEVSN, which I believe is the newer model(?). There’s a $20 coupon on amazon so I came out a little cheaper than the 2 I linked. We’ll see how it goes. Thanks for the input.

Buy the best tools you can afford and buy them as you need them. When it comes to power stationary tools many times the older the better, they don't make them like they used to. All projects require hand tools of some kind, not all projects need power tools at all. The quality of your wood matters and so does wood movement. Above all else keep a positive attitude remember don't look at a project and say these are the mistakes I have made look at a project and say these are the thing I learned and now I can improve this. I will assure you that if every person in the subreddit compared their chairs to Sam and their tables to George we all would of gave up a long time ago.

The only power tools I used on almost every project.

Table saw Mine is a 1983 Craftsman 113.xxx runs like a top. I use Diablo thin kerf 40 tooth blades.

Bosch & Dewalt random orbital sanders - both used at auction both for under $20.

Craftsman #921400 10 inch Bandsaw - I have a small one that does reasonable work for what I ask of it.

*edit formatting

It completely depends on your financial situation, but I would recommend just buying your own tools. You will get more than your moneys worth if you hang on to them for 5-10 years. Which is very easy with proper care.

Here are some cheaper yet not terrible options on Amazon. These should get most jobs done around the house.

• Orbit Sander $28
  
• Assorted Sanding Disks $20
  
  
  Total of $48
  
  
  
  If you want to go with another method outlined here you can use a regular drill. Tons of uses for a drill other than sanding down your skillet.
  
  
• Drill $30
  
• Coarse Wire Brush attatchment $9
  
• Fine Wire Brush attatchment $6
  
  Total of $45
  

At school, I use a Dewalt Random Orbital Variable Speed and have one at home. Love em both. I also use, at school, a 1/4 sheet Porter Cable and really like it, too. Plan on getting a Dewalt 1/4 for my home shop. I like the 1/4 sheet sander with 150-180 paper. I never use anything higher on bare wood, so...

As for going with Dewalt, well, I can't afford Festool and really, I can see how they are that much better. Regardless of how good your dust collection is, you are still going to get dust.

Not really sure what your budget or needs are, but a palm sander (also called corner or detail sander) might work for you. They are relatively inexpensive and the sanding pads are too. I've used a Harbor Freight one almost daily for many years for many different types of projects.

Here's a decent one from Amazon

Whatever sander you decide on, an essential add-on is a gum rubber sandpaper cleaner. I went for years always replacing the sandpaper when it got clogged until I discovered that I could clean them over and over, and save a lot of money.

Hope that helps!

Sure thing and, trust me, I understand! I started off using a bench grinder and then bought a 1x30. This one (https://smile.amazon.com/Grizzly-H6070-5-Inch-Sander-30-Inch/dp/B0007D2YAO/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=1x30+belt+sander&qid=1563022667&s=gateway&sr=8-13) served me well for quite a while until I sold enough knives to upgrade to a 2x72. I'm always happy to help and to share anything I've figured out along the way ;)

The boards were oversized in both the length and width dimensions so that I could cut the pattern and then square them back up, similar to what Syntax suggested.

I used SolidWorks to create a mountain silhouette on 11 x 17 paper that I overlayed on the wood. The plan was to tape the boards together using double sided carpet tape and run them through the scroll / jigsaw. I didn't bother to ensure that guard could be raised high enough. So in the end I had to water jet the pattern and then trim the boards down to match each other.

A 2" forstner bit was used for the moon / sun holes at half the board depth - 3/4". The circles were not fun or easy, I thought I had a cheat using a hole saw with the center drill bit cut flush to the inside of the saw, it cut well but the material was impossible to remove, I am pretty sure a vice would have allowed this process to work but I don't have one. Pieces ready, Glued, All details separate.

The moon / sun details I just cut out as best I could using a jigsaw and sanded them to size. The hardest part was sanding the edges perpendicular to the top surface.

The first attempt to glue up the boards was done with 2" wide Oak veneer soaked in hot water down the center, however this didn't hold after I released the clamps. I made sure the veneer was dry first but no dice. In the end I used 2 cabinet clamps, a pipe clamp and 4 quick clamps for each assembly, I have a pic of that somewhere.

The handles are routered out using a 1/2" straight bit- 2 passes. The are half the board thickness deep 3/4", 4 1/2" wide and 1 1/4" in from the perimeter. Then I used a chamfer bit to knock down the edges and sanded everything round as best I could. This tool was a invaluable in the handle area.

Sanded to 220, #0000 steel wool, and tac cloth. Then I finised them with 4 coats of salad bowl finish. I used the steel wool in between every application of the sealer. It is a great product to work with. The woodwhisper says to thin it with mineral spirits 50% but I didn't, not sure why he does that.

So I had to cheat because I didn't have a bandsaw, it really killed me when I realized I didn't have the tools to do it. The begging dimensions of the boards was 9 3/4" x 14" x 1 1/2", finished it was about 9" x 13 1/4" x 1 1/2".

Just a note - I was about to send the original glue up slabs through a planer to smooth them out a bit since I don't have any hand planes. Bad idea after I saw this link

So this one?

I am going to take your word for it but I don't see the triangle you're talking about. If I wanted to get a Dewalt, which one would you recommend. I suppose a kit would be ideal, no?

Thank you for all your help.

I dealt with a similar issue when removing paneling from level 1 drywall in my home, and found a method that worked for me. Remove as much adhesive as possible with a scraper (a little damage to the facing is okay as long as you don’t gouge down to the gypsum). Then use a drywall sander with a 36-grit disk like this one and take it down a bit more to smooth things out.

WEN 6369 Variable Speed 5 Amp Drywall Sander with 15' Hose

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRL9XYI/

Do any needed patches and repairs (gouges, holes, etc) and then roll the surface with a primer sealer (I used PPG). A good tip is to have some black added to the primer to add contrast. Then skim coat the surface with thinned out compound to get back to a nice, smooth finish. Prime and paint.

In my case it was more labor than doubling up or replacing the Sheetrock, but I just decided I didn’t want to deal with hauling all that drywall if I didn’t have to. For a ceiling I think it would probably be a worthwhile way to go (my shoulder doesn’t like taping overhead anymore).

For the skim coat, I rolled thinned premix on with a half inch roller, and scraped with a squeegee trowel like this (I used the 14” and 22” ones)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CCGEDOE/

You can definitely make knives on the kitchen counter!

You'll need a way to heat it up, either to aid with forging and heat treating if you go the blacksmithing route, or as the first step in heat treating, if you're going the stock removal route.

A two-brick forge is very cheap and only requires two soft (not the hard ones) kiln bricks and a propane or MAP gas torch - https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/virtual-bbq-2-brick-forge-wip.920120/

Just make sure you leave a window open for venting out any fumes, as one of the byproducts from propane or MAP gas being burned is carbon monoxide, and in an enclosed environment with no ventilation, that can kill you.

You can do stock removal very cheaply by hand with a jig like this one - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ

I made one based on that video when I was starting out, and while it is very time consuming and manual labor intensive to use, the results were quite good.

A small benchtop 1"x30" belt sander can speed things up a great deal, like this one for $69 - https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Mini-Belt-Sander-3400/dp/B004D96ZCG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519657469&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=craftsman+benchtop+belt+sander


Once you have it sanded / ground / hammered to shape, you heat it up until it glows bright orange, then you quench it in motor oil or hydraulic oil.

After it's cooled, pull it out and clean it off. Make sure to look for any cracks. If there are none, you can temper it in any standard home oven, as it will be extremely brittle at this point. It depends on the steel and the desired final hardness as to what temperature you'll set the oven to, but 300 to 350 degrees Fahrenheit is common.

After that, put a handle on it, sharpen it up and you're done!

If I had my choice of tool, I'd probably say some sort of belt sander/grinder that has a small wheel or turnaround (like this) so you get a nice round profile. If you have something like that(I think they make some similar bench top things), I'd probably use a med/fine grit belt. Barring that, 2nd best is probably the dremel sanding wheel thing, also using a med/fine grit wheel. I'd put the dremel in a vise sticking up and hold the work rather than the other way around too.

The one I have was ~60 when I got it, but it's 79 right now. Its got variable speed, but that doesn't matter to everyone. I've seen people go for dewalt, makita, bosch, and ridgid random orbit sanders most often.

On the topic of sanding/dust, does he have a shop vac or any form of dust collection? I linked the one I have below that I got from home depot for $99, but there are smaller ones you can get. It's less sexy of a gift but it's something that's important to have.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448994791&sr=8-1&keywords=Bosch+ROS20VSK

http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-WD1450-14-Gallon-6-Horsepower-Vacuum/dp/B001MBADFI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448994876&sr=8-2&keywords=rigid+shop+vac

I got one of these from Amazon, it has #80, #120, #240 grit drums. Though the #240 is a little better, it's still not going to be really smooth. Alternatively, you can use the grinding stone bits which work really well in smoothing things out. After any sanding, you should hit the foam with heat to close out the pores and run your hand along the foam to help smooth it a little.

​

[EDIT - addd link]

You could do this with a jig saw and could use a mini belt sander to clean it up. Or just hand sand her.

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-9032-4-4-Amp-8-Inch-Variable/dp/B0000614UT

I fuckin love this thing I rarely cope by hand anymore.

i recently went through this and did a lot of research and comparison. Comes down to either the Dewalt mentioned below or the Bosch ROS20.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373305781&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+orbital+sander
i ended up going with the bosch, only because it was on a great sale. Both are tops for sanding finish, but Bosch excels a little in dust collection.

I have nearly identical cabinets in the house i recently bought. I'm also interested what the best way to sand and paint them is. My assumption was those v shaped sanding tools like http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1294VSK-Corner-Detail-Sander/dp/B0000302U5/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b

You can probably use a dremel, but things like a flap disk or belt sander would remove material faster. If you already have a drill press and want to save money, you can get these which are inexpensive, but for ~$10-$15 more, you can get an angle grinder and flap disk.

This website has a lot of handle materials and spacers. But there are plenty of other websites, too. Plus I don't know if they ship outside the U.S.

well it really depends on what size the knife is and what size the grinder is. I have a Six inch Hico bentch grinder and You cant properly shape anything bigger then about a overall length of 9 inches you end up bumping into the other disk. also you risk injury trying to grind something bigger and I have the scars to show it.
you can get wheels between at least 46 and 120 grit. i think i have seen 150 grit wheels but am not sure on that.

However you can get a small belt sander starting at about 92.04 on amazon. It's the same thing as a belt grinder, it just depends on the type of grit used for the belts.

Here is a link to that 92.04 plus tax belt sander. It also has prime free shipping so you can get it in two days. https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-6502-36-Inch-6-Inch-Sander/dp/B00NAXSYT8/ref=lp_552882_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1474260263&sr=1-1

hope this helps keep on making.

Oh yeah, I thought 1095 was stupid expensive until I found it on texas knifemaker supply for $8 per foot... so yeah, I'll be getting some of that. I need a belt sander, but can't get one at the moment. Do you think this is a good sander? Would it be useful for grinding bevels?

This is a great random orbital sand I have. I highly recommend it.

Fyi the first one is variable speed. You can see the speed dial in the 2nd picture and here’s the Amazon link for the same model.

I have this one and with limited experience I'd say it's a good buy. The variable speed is quite helpful.

Hello, I want to make a simple knife. A balisong to be specific. I have no tools that I could make one with, and frankly I don't know what tools I would need. So I have lots of questions. Where do I buy my metal at? What type of metal (I don't need some super high-quality metal just something that won't bend if I drop it on the ground once or twice). What would I use for drilling holes, and lastly what would I use to shape the handles/blade(Would something like this work? http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Mini-Belt-Sander-3400/dp/B004D96ZCG/ref=lp_552878_1_19?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1462267395&sr=1-19) Thanks for the help in advance!

I researched a lot of them based on reviews. I think overall for price and how happy people are with the product, this stood out to me: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333586647&sr=8-1

It's even back down to a very good price. I bought one, which was my first Bosch tool(I'm brand agnostic), and it really exudes quality. Comes with a case, vacuum adapter, and has variable speeds for $60 shipped. Hard to beat that.

Easiest would probably be a tabletop beltsander and some practice. Something like this would be perfect although you can get that type of machine cheaper - this one is just and example, the first one that popped up when I searched Amazon.

I am beginner woodworking and have only used the Bosch ROS20VSK. So my opinion might be a little "naive" per se. As far as ROS goes, it's great on dust collection and generate only moderate humming noises. It's also not too hard on your hands. Here's a link to it on amazon review: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64

Very nice. I like that you took the time to maintain a continuous grain pattern.

It's also probably time to put a sheet sander on your list.

any idea what belt grinder he is using, or are the adjustable ones pretty much standard

[edit] It looks like this one

I absolutely love this random orbit sander from DeWalt.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D26451K-Corded-5-Inch-Random/dp/B0007XXHGO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373295371&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+random+orbital+sander

You mentioned a router... How about getting a router with a variable speed motor and chucking up a 1/4" shank sanding drum? You will have decent control over the grit and you'll be able to easily guide the router around the curves.

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D3292-Drum-Sanding-16-Piece/dp/B001XQMRH4/

McMaster has a good selection of sanding sleeves.

I use my cheap random orbital sander plugged into my shop vac, I know the drywall dust is really bad for the sander but it's only $40 and it works better for dust collection than the vacuum attachment.
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-382-5-Inch-Random-Sander/dp/B004CRSNCO

Invest in some drill drum sander parts like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001XQMRH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mount your drill in a vise (if you don't have a press) and it will make your sanding effort a lot easier in those hard to reach places.

Thanks! :D

The wax is a nice finish so far. I was messing around with some wood I found last night and dinged the wax finish with a saw. A glob of wax and about 45 seconds and the ding was gone! I'm sure if I actually hit the wood it would be a little harder to fix, but none-the-less I think wax is a good way to go.

I've used wax for lots of other projects too. It's a nice, non-coloring protector and water resisting barrier. Greta for indoors. I never tested it outside, but probably not as good outside.

The way I put the wax on is very similar to a car: first smooth the wood down to about 150 grit sand paper. Then throw a bunch of wax on and rub it into the cracks and crevices, any big voids you can just throw a big glob on the them and rub them down a bit. wait about 20 to 30 minutes for the wax to set. Then I attach a shop rag (yeah, the ol' red rags) to my orbital sander and buff away to a semi-shine. Repeating the process gets more shine.

You can also lightly heat the wood with a heat gun after you've rubbed wax on but before it's dry to open the wood pores and let the wax really penetrate the wood. I've only done this once (not on my workbench) and I was nervous of it causing the glue to fail and boards to separate - it didn't though. But always test it out first before you go and take reddit advice!

Well if you're at the point where you're considering repainting the headstock, I'd try sanding it off first if the toothpaste and alcohol don't work, using a sander like this to avoid gouging the wood: http://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDEMS600-Detail-Sander/dp/B00OJWLNMO

You'd want to sand it before you painted it anyway.

My friend does bevels like OP with a sander like this....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAXSYT8/

In the 4th photo, you can see that the 36" belt sander has a small guiding platform. My friend's setup has a larger DIY platform and a 45" guiding block that's attached to a slide on the platorm. Once he marks the bevel in pencil, he dials in the distance on his guide and slides it.

I think a mounted edge router would be much faster but he makes do just fine.

If he doesn't have a powered handheld sander, he would be certain to appreciate and get a lot of use out of a random orbit sander and you can get a decent one for under $100.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Random-Polisher-ROS20VSC-Carrying/dp/B00BD5G9VA/

Prices aren't shown on the Home Depot site, but on amazon it is more than twice the price of the 5in B&D.

Though, the B&D doesn't say it's variable speed. Maybe that's the difference? Is it important?


http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RO100-5-Inch-Random/dp/B0000302V3/ref=sr_1_2/175-1871714-6992552?ie=UTF8&qid=1427466816&sr=8-2&keywords=Random+orbit+sander

Yup. Not the best sander, but good for smoothing out a finish on smaller items. For general everyday sanding I use One of these.

For final finish buffing, I prefer a half sheet sander and use this one

noice, my wife bought me a sweet table sander on amazon that I used to shape my rests https://www.amazon.com/WEN-6502-36-Inch-6-Inch-Sander/dp/B00NAXSYT8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468878654&sr=8-1&keywords=wen+table+sander

The circular random orbit sanders are good all purpose sanders, if you really get into wood working you'll likely need a few different sanders for different use cases.

The difference between the two Dewalts is variable speed.

I own the Bosch ROS20VSK Which is the variable speed version of the Bosch one you listed, and its been good for me, its fairly quiet and has low felt vibration.

I've also used both of the Dewalt ones you listed and they are on par with the Bosch one I own.

I have this sander from Dewalt. Is there any difference between the circular one and the square?

Honest question, I'm getting into woodworking and not trying to troll by any means.

Joe I'll direct this at you as you seem knowledgable on the subject. I see that bosch also makes some 6 inch models such as the 1250DEVS and 3727DEVS and
ROS65VCL which seem to be built differently and seem to be quite a bit more expensive. Is this just to support the larger pads or is there more to this?

Pretty much this or this

For woodworking, the two big power tools you need are a router and a tablesaw. You can duplicate other functions of tools with those two. I would suggest high quality on both.

For a sander, the Festool seems interesting, but I can't imagine spending that much on a sander. Instead, I went with this Bosch which if you take the bag off, has a tube connection that fits a standard shop vac. Much cheaper on all fronts, does the job just as well.

Someone mentioned you wanted to build a deck, and that is one of the few places I think a miter saw is really warranted. In a woodworking shop setting, you could simply use a crosscut sled for the tablesaw, but for more construction style work, a miter saw would be invaluable.

I got WEN 6502 4 x 36-Inch Belt and 6-Inch Disc Sander with Cast Iron Base

Maybe not the best one but good enough for a weekend warrior.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAXSYT8

You should be able to get these at your local hardware store for pretty cheap. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001XQMRH4/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SL500_SR115%2C115&refRID=082YF0H44WVZT0N8EWN7

Save yourself $10 and get the same exact kit only with a soft case.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD5G9VA/

We scraped our entire house. What we did:

• Covered the entire floor with painter's plastic up. Tape up the walls to create a bowl.
  
• Soaked the entire ceiling. If it's not dripping wet, you're doing it wrong.
  
• Scraped. This took about 2 hours per bedroom with 2 people working.
  
• Rolled up the plastic
  
• Used a power drywall sander to smooth out any imperfections. Our first mistake was attempting to use a hand sander and that would have taken forever had we continued. We got this from Amazon that connects to a wet dry vac that prevents most dust. You will need a fancy respirator: the cheap white dust masks were useless.
  
• Primed and 2 coats of paint
  
  We did try the just-a-sander approach. Eventually you'll mess up and push too hard, and create a bare drywall spot, making the surface completely uneven.
  
  The process wasn't difficult, just really time consuming. We even had vaulted ceilings that required a really tall ladder. While going through this you think it's not worth the effort, but then you see the finished product, and are glad you did it.

It's not a belt sander. It simply vibrates back and forth quickly. It is similar to This one, but mine is just an inexpensive generic model.

I'm not sure really what I will do after. If the wood is nice, I will paint or finish with some clear(ish) durable coating. This is what I would prefer. If the wood is rough, probably just put new carpet on.

Maybe take a drill, place it in a vise, the use a drum sanding drill bit like these? https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D3292-Drum-Sanding-16-Piece/dp/B001XQMRH4/ref=br_lf_m_bv4y9v7p5tba8wp_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi

Yep, this one to be specific.

im only on my third blade, and the first sander i bought was a 4x36 thinking the same thing. It ended up being a bit of a pain. I still use it for flattening all my edges and surface grinding. For actually grinding by bevels i have been using this https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Mini-Belt-Sander-3400/dp/B004D96ZCG/ref=pd_sbs_196_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004D96ZCG&pd_rd_r=BPYN0PVP11225WJZWP2Z&pd_rd_w=MEfYN&pd_rd_wg=H7m3J&psc=1&refRID=BPYN0PVP11225WJZWP2Z and its fantastic. plus, in this size you can search amazon for belt packs and get a set of various grits from 60 all the way to 600 in one package. Its also not gonna break the bank for your first grinder.

There's nothing you can do with a power sander you can't do with your hands really, it's just a matter of time and patience. I do mine in about ten minutes with a 6" random orbital sander and a couple of different grits. It will take longer by hand but you can do it-- just use a sanding block so you don't sand divots into the wood. Else drop $75 on a decent 5" sander then sell it on Craigslist or Ebay for $50 when you're done with the job. If you're doing entire countertops you'll probably thank yourself for the savings in time and likely increase in quality anyway.

I ordered these a little while ago...not as long as the ones in the video but for $11.40 you can't go wrong.

http://www.amazon.ca/Woodstock-D3292-Drum-Sanding-16-Piece/dp/B001XQMRH4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420558539&sr=8-2&keywords=drum+sander+kit

I say cancel those orders and do a bit more research first. Figure out the project first, then the tools.

Your most expensive item is a pair of sawhorses. Better idea: build yourself a couple. Great first project. Doesn't even matter if they look like shit, which is the most important determining factor in what makes a good first project.

Those B+D tools are junk. They are not a good brand. Better to buy decent brands used on CL over new B+D tools.

1/4 sheet sanders are basically good for making ugly scratches in your project. Bosch makes an RO sander for $70 that will take you a long way. Take the $40 you would have spent on the sawhorses and redirect it towards a decent sander.

0% chance my first saw would have been a jig saw. Figure this out based on your project. If you're cutting more straight lines than curves, a circular saw will take you much further.

Assorted nails/assorted wood screws...no. Amazon is a terrible place to buy that stuff, and you're getting a lot of useless sizes. Also, can't remember the last time I used nails in a project. Finally, that hillman hardware is junk and the screw heads will break off when you try to use them. Many projects employ no metal fasteners at all. Those that do, usually 1, maybe 2 sizes of screw. Figure out what those sizes are for your project, and buy quality screws in a 100 pack. For the price of that assortment, you can buy 200 quality screws in two sizes.

You probably need more med/fine paper than coarse. The assortment is probably fine for now for hand sanding. Skip the extra pack of "Coarse" and add some paper that goes with the sander-that-doesn't-suck.

The Elmers glue will work, but TiteBond-II is a higher quality product, and less expensive than the thing you bought.

The resin on the surface is uneven?

Are you doing a lot of this? Then you might want to buy what I bought

It'll take off a few MM of resin in about 20 seconds.

I think you also learned a lesson about, "Practice on one piece first, until you learn what you're doing." Also, here's a polishing tutorial

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-6502-36-Inch-6-Inch-Sander/dp/B00NAXSYT8/

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D26441K-2-4-AMP-Orbital-4-Sheet/dp/B0007XXHGE/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1377416400&sr=1-1&keywords=quarter+sheet+sander


or any of these


http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_feature_keywords_0?rh=n%3A228013%2Cn%3A328182011%2Cn%3A551236%2Cn%3A552876%2Cn%3A552890%2Ck%3Aquarter+sheet+sander%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A7066200011&keywords=quarter+sheet+sander&ie=UTF8&qid=1377416392&rnid=7066199011

It's between this orbit sander or this sheet sander

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D26441K-2-4-AMP-Orbital-4-Sheet/dp/B0007XXHGE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485990568&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+1%2F4+sander

If you can get a mouse sander it will go SO quickly! Mine took <1 hour to sand

I either use these:

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D3292-Drum-Sanding-16-Piece/dp/B001XQMRH4/ref=br_lf_m_bv4y9v7p5tba8wp_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi

Or:

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Hawk-Mounted-Wheels-Aluminum/dp/B01MDQW98P/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1539429033&sr=1-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=flap+wheel+sander&dpPl=1&dpID=41vmTZGsF0L&ref=plSrch

Of the correct size. I put them on a drill press or they can be used in a drill

WEN 6369 Variable Speed 5 Amp Drywall Sander with 15' Hose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRL9XYI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i9cWDbGYC9GRH

I always feel the same way about every time saving tool I buy. My latest "How did I ever get by without this is?" tool is my Bosch Orbital Sander

you can buy this bench sander for the same price and it won't be all used up. and ryobi is about the same level of quality.

Yes, slack belt grinders are great for sword sharpening.

Review the video that /u/Azekh posted below. The grinder in the video is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D96ZCG

Mike Edelson (the guy in the video) is amongst the foremost experts in the HEMA community on test cutting, and is single-handedly responsible for bringing japanese-style tatami cutting to HEMA. His method is the result of years of honing (pardon the pun) his skills.

I recently sharpened my new Albion Baron using this method, and it turned out fantastic, both in appearance as well as in cutting tatami. I've since sharpened weapons for others within my school. It's really great once you get the hang of it.

Summary of key takeaways (but watch the video, it's very important!):

1. Figure out your edge bevel. This is super-important. The video shows you how. Older albions are ~40 degrees. The cold steel hand-and-a-half is 60 degrees. Yours may be neither.
   
2. Cut a visual guide out of 2x4 at an angle that is half of your edge bevel. This allows you to position the sword on the guide to get the angle, then hold that angle through the process.
   
3. Hold the sword firmly and move it back and forth by moving your body, not your arms. If you move your arms, you lose your angle. If you move your body, you keep your angle. Simple 'eh?
   
4. Work your way up with progressively higher grits, but don't over-grind on the lower grits. 240 grit belts and even 400 grit belts can mess up your sword if you don't know what you're doing or are careless. My baron really did not have a sharp edge at all, so I started with 240. If you already have an edge that is somewhat sharp, maybe you start with 400? You'll figure it out.
   
5. The higher the grit, the more passes you need. Duh.
   
6. Don't forget the stropping leather.

I've got a a Bosch random orbital sander and I've been really pleased with it. I did a table for my child out of palletwood and it worked as advertised and took mall the weathering off each board in a couple minutes (w/ 40 grit sand paper).

I also have this piece of shit. The worst part is that the belt sand paper keeps wanting to wander off the tool, so you have to keep stopping and push it back on to the sander. Eventually the sand paper just disintegrates into a nasty mess because the inner edge of the paper will touch the tool while it operates. That and it feels like a flimsy piece of crap.

Anyway,

FEELTHESMOOTHNESS