Reddit mentions: The best saw blades, parts & accessories

Proper blade for the task at hand is honestly more important than the brand of blade itself, so long as you aren't going like $10 cheap, but with modern metallurgy and tooling even the cheap stuff can get the job done, just might not be built to super high tollerances and might not stay sharp as long, also not really worth having them sharpened as they are cheap.

What your goal with the tool in question. I find that a lot of people tend to use the tablesaw to get it close to final dimensions, then run an end over the jointer and then through the planer to get proper thickness. If that's the case then you don't need to spend $120 on a forrest glue line rip blade and something like the $50 freud or even a cheaper diablo will be fine.

Personally I use a Forrest 20T ripping blade when I'm batching out a bunch of repetitive rips and want it all glue ready off the saw without the added step of running it over the jointer again, but I've also got a very nice cabinet saw that I know gives me glue ready rips with that blade and it's properly tuned. If I was using a jobsite saw I don't think I'd ever trust it to give glue ready rps off the saw.
On ripping one thing I will say is if you've got an underpowered saw then look at thin kerf blades for ripping hardwood.

That said I've usually got this 40T Freud general purpose combo blade in the saw as it rips and crosscuts fine for the one off things or during a single project.

I've got an 80T chopmaster forrest blade in my miter saw that's great, honestly I'd put the money in this if you're wondering which one to spend money on first. I've found most people cross cut stock to final length on the miter and I've never had an issue with tearout on this.

I had a 48T crosscut Forrest blade that I used to leave in, but got the Freud one for free and honestly I don't notice a difference when cross cutting. Also have a 100T blade meant for veneer or other like materials, but hardly ever use it.

In terms of Circular saws it kind of goes by the same logic. If you ever see a carpenter that does work on site they will probably have a bunch of different blades from very low tooth to high tooth. My circular saw just has a 32T general purpose blade in it and I've never bothered to change it, don't do finish cuts with it and honestly it's mostly only used if I'm doing stuff on site or need to make large initial cuts on timber framing which I'll clean up later. It's the festool branded blades, not sure who manufacturers those for them, but they are pretty good quality.

For my track saw I've got a 16T blade (was what festool offered, I know there are non festool brands that make blades that fit the festool specific arbor though) that's almost exclusively used for ripping slabs, and a 52T blade for when I'm crosscutting slabs or breaking down sheetgoods, although on the sheetgood thing I usually always make final cuts on the tablesaw and just use the tracksaw to make it more manageable to get on the tablesaw.

Finally for Daddo stacks I bit the bullet and bought one of the Forrest Dado kings (they run like $375) when I got my cabinet saw. Have never tried the cheaper brands as the saw I had before my cabinet saw couldn't accept daddo stacks unless I were to modify it.

I don't think you'd regret the Kobalt! It's not going to be to the level of the Ridgid or Dewalt (and certainly not a Bosch or SawStop) but as long as you're aware you're getting an excellent saw for ~$200, and not a contractor/professional grade saw, you'll be happy.

If it seemed nice to you in the store that's a good sign. Be aware that with cheaper saws, you sometimes have to do some work to get them to work smoothly: things like greasing slide points, or waxing the table to make sure wood glides on it.

The other thing is that a new, high quality blade makes an unbelievable amount of difference! If you can afford $35 for another blade (no worries if you can't, the one that comes with it will still cut!) a good 50 tooth or 60 tooth combination blade will make an average saw give you some pretty amazing results. I use this one for $35 and absolutely love it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ30

If you have a PCS/ICS it's a pretty easy setup but the saw is still super heavy, best to have a helper to get it together, especially the wings and tipping the saw upright. The instructions are very easy to follow. I spent an hour or two going over it with a dial indicator but it was a waste of time, mine came pretty much perfect out of the box.

The only thing I don't like about the saw is the miter gauge. It isn't bad for a basic miter gauge, but you'll be much happier with a nicer one like an incra 1000.

Others have mentioned making a splitter but you can also buy one. Microjig makes what's pretty much standard at this point: https://www.amazon.com/MICRO-JIG-SP-2-TK-SPLITTER-SteelPro/dp/B00B03PMY0

Having a good fence already, a zero clearance insert, and a splitter are pretty much the best things to do in terms of use/safety. The only other recommendation I'd give (looks like you've done this) is to keep the top cleaned and smooth.

I've only done them for 2 or 3 pieces so far, but you can do a good shaker with cope and stick style. This video from saw stop does a decent job of summarizing things, but do additional googleing to get all the details.

https://youtu.be/d-fCL-ZAVWs

Also, get a ftg rip blade for cutting the groove, any bevel will make it impossible to get a good tight fit. Here is the one I use with good success (then you have a real rip blade too!) I'd totally recommend the thin kerf if you have a 1.5hp or less saw.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000225UH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468094452&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Freud+thin+kerf+ftg+rip

Assuming you are starting from the ground up and need everything, it's going to be tight and you'll have to skimp in some places, but this is exactly what I would do. The grand total here is $5005.00 and that includes shipping on the big ticket items which is a few hundred dollars.

Table saw and related stuff:

[Grizzly G0715xp] (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P)

Freud Premier Fusion

[Freud SD208] (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407011&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+sd208)

Gr Ripper 3d advanced (awesome on the router table too

Make your own ZCI's

Table Saw Total - $1,142

Jointer

Grizzly G0654 6" jointer (sell this on craigslist when you can upgrade to the 8". They hold their value really well and sell fast)

Jointer total $534.00

Planer

Dewalt DW734 - $399.99 most places. The 735 is nice, but not that much nicer. If I were to upgrade beyond the 734, I'd go for a 15" stationary unit.

Miter saw

Definitely go craigslist on this one. These things are a dime a dozen there. You can get a sliding 12" Dewalt/Makita/Ridgid, etc for around 250.00 to 300.00 Also pick up a decent Irwin Marples or Diablo blade

SCMS total - ~320.00

Bandsaw:

Craftsman BAS350. I own this. It's the SAME EXACT saw as the Rikon 10-321, just 200.00 cheaper. 8" resaw capacity and no stupid riser blocks to fuck up the geometry of your saw and make tensioning a nightmare.

Bandsaw Total - 620.00 with the Rikon resaw fence (bolt on) and a few timberwolf blades

Harbor Freight 2hp Dust collector, a lot of hoses, blast gates, and material to mod it to a 2 stage cyclone - 400.00

Router(s)

Bosch 1617 with both plunge and fixed bases

MLCS 15 bit set. Not the best, but better than absolutely anything else in this price range. Replace bits with Whiteside or Amanna when you have the cash.

Router and bits total 200.00

Also make your own table and fence to fill the empty space in your table saw.

Sanding

{Milwaukee 6021-21 Random Orbit Sander. Best ROS on the market until you go Festool/Ceros

Some klingspor abrasives in different grits

Shop vac bucket max and a 5gal bucket - perfect for sanders

Ridgid oscilating spindle sander. This is a tool I could definitely not live without after owning.

Sanding total - $320.00

Drill Press

Porter cable floor press

Also get the Porter Cable Forstner bit set and some decent brad points/twists)

Drill Press/bits total - ~$420.00

Clamps

Jorgensen Cabinet Master 4pc Set and various other bar clamps. The Pittsburgh ones from HF are pretty good

Clamps total ~ $250.00

Misc stuff

Woodriver bench chisels.

A vintage stanley block plane, and a jack plane

some plywood/melamine, and cheap hardwood and hardware to make a cross cut sled, router table/fence. drill press table, a workable bench/outfeed table and a grizzly woodworking end vise

Misc total - ~400.00

For push sticks, stay away from stuff like this.

Instead, go for something like [this] (http://www.finewoodworking.com/pdf/Push_Stick.pdf), which you can make yourself. There are all kinds of designs actually, but having more surface area contact the wood is a good idea as it allows you to put more pressure on the wood to keep it in place, both downward towards the table saw and towards the fence and away from the blade.

You can make a featherboard, but you can get a good enough plastic one at Harbor Freight for 5 bucks.

You should get or make a zero clearance insert. Making them can be kinduva pain in the ass, so I would just order one from woodcraft for 20 bucks.

As far as riving knifes go, you could get away with a micro-jig splitter, which might be easier than finding old parts. This is what I did for my saw, also an older craftsman and it works pretty great.

Lastly, eventually you're gonna want to make a crosscut sled as this will make it a lot easier and safer to do crosscutting.

I'm not sure what Tammar uses specifically, but the Diablo 1050X is a pretty decent, popular, inexpensive upgrade from most stock blades. Or the D1040X. Others in that price range are the Irwin Marples 40t I believe. Being available from HomeDepot (as a non-American, decent-ish blades at a big box store? Unheard of!) makes them a good choice too.

Diablo is a sub-brand of Freud. The red blades are "permashield" coating, which Freud put on pretty much everything, so you'll even see it on higher end blades too, like the Freud Fusion.

I have that saw. For a portable, it's probably the best I've used. I use the Bosch and the Dewalt at work, and the Ridgid is a lot better in my opinion. For a beginner in the woodworking world you've found a pretty sweet deal if that saw is in good shape.

When I pulled mine out of the box it was already set up correctly. The blade was perfectly at 90° and the fence locked in square every time. It will handle a dado set, too. I run this one. It cuts perfectly smooth bottoms and clean edges.

You might find a better deal on craigslist, but you won't be sorry if you spend the money on the Ridgid. It's a solid saw, and better than all the other portables I've used.

Edit: The link to the dado set is not the cheapest I've found. I don't remember where I ordered mine, but it was in the $60 range. If I find my receipt I'll post where I got it.

> IRWIN Marples 40-Tooth - $44.99

This one is one of those "uncommonly good for the brand/uncommonly cheap for the quality" situations. I'm not sure I trust the brand as a whole. It's a pretty different blade than the 50T.

My two normal TS blade recs are the Forrest WW-II and the TENRYU Gold Medal. They are a bit more expensive, though. I'm sure the Freud is fine--most of their stuff is pretty good.

> Haha I JUST called Harbor Freight because they were the cheapest I could find online. Unfortunately, they don't ship to Canada and the cheapest clamps I could find were the ones I listed. I'll keep looking...

You were at $90 for 4 clamps. There's a lot of territory between $22.5/clamp and Harbor Freight prices. These are $10, and a little more for the larger sizes, for example.

Clamps are heavy so shipping can get expensive...might be better to try to find a local retailer.

> Do you recommend any particular brand of F-style clamps? Maybe two 6" and two 12" for now?

There isn't a ton of differentiation..I have Jorgensens that I bought at the local HD, but I'm sure I would be just as happy with the equivalent product from Bessey or Irwin or whoever. Having a local place to run out and get them helped a lot--that way I could just buy a few at the beginning, and then accumulate the rest as I needed them, project by project.

So I just bought a new table saw recently. I'm kind of following a similar track of 'upgrading' it with goodies.

Here's what I have to go along with my TS:

1. Blade: Diablo 50T Combo blade
   
   
2. Feather board: Magswitch feather board
   
   
3. Push sticks: I already had these (homemade), they are basic AF.
   
   
4. Crosscut Sled. My design was a combination of this video for the fence shape, and this one. That second video does a really good job of explaining the 5 cuts method, and how to make adjustments to the fence to get it super accurate.
   
   
5. Dado stack. I got this for Christmas, still haven't used it on a project yet.
   
   Next thing I'm going to make is a bunch of ZCIs, I figure this will come in handy for my next set of projects that will require the dado stack. I don't yet have an outfeed table (limited space), but my latest issue of WOOD has a cool mobile folding one that doubles as a scrap storage cart.
   
   If you don't have a crosscut sled yet, I would make that first. They are made from inexpensive materials, and can be as simple or complex as you like them to be. My first crosscut sled for my old POS tablesaw was made from scrap ply and a chunk of scrap 2x4; it was ugly and kind of crummy, but it did the job. My second version is much nicer, with contoured and shaped fences and much more accurate using the 5 cut method. More sophisticated versions have built in stop blocks, tape measures, or T-tracks for adjustable inserts. I use my sled on just about every single project, as both my miter and circular saw are kind of inaccurate, and not great at making super accurate crosscuts. Plus, if you don't have a dado stack, you can use a crosscut sled to make rabbets and dados across the grain by making repeated cuts. It will take longer, but gets the job done.
   
   Good luck!

If he is going to be using a table saw, one a GRR-ripper would be a good gift. I've been wanting one, but never pulled the trigger. This helps cut thin pieces on the table saw. Also generally safer than normal push sticks.

http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC

Another thing to go with many power tools is a magnetic feather block. This also helps keep things safe on power tools. It keep wood tight to a reference surface, helping accuracy and safety.

http://www.amazon.com/Mesa-Vista-Design-GRIP-TITE-Featherboard/dp/B0000223VF

With regards to making it more safe, you could get something like the Grripper. It's a pushblock that makes cutting smaller and thinner pieces a lot safer on the table saw. I just got one for myself, and I love it.

You can also use it with a router table, a band saw and a huge number of other ways too. It's a nice little tool.

I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.

So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?

Here is a link to it,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E

I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.

So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?

Here is a link to it,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E

Sandpaper would work on steel but why would you want to "fix" what shouldn't be broken out of the box?

I would either as for a replacement or get a better quality one, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Incra-MITERV27-Miter-V27-Gauge/dp/B0007UQ2DW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=BEZ5PAYZGCKR&keywords=incra+miter+gauge+v27&qid=1562083421&s=gateway&sprefix=incra+miter%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-3

Yes, it is over twice the price of the one you bought but worth every penny.

I nominate /u/Glasspirate for [this 10.00 gift] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037Z7D0A/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1BE5CQNQKYRGQ&coliid=ILWPSHDMT376T) because he is cool and is a very positive person and /u/kratz5ive for [this 10.00 gift] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L9OPJIO/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=16ATUS4UFAYN7&coliid=I294CI84TRYQCX) because he is super cool and nice.

Perhaps this will get me flamed here for doing things the wrong way but it's working for me on my table-less setup (currently making a router table and saving up for a table saw so I can avoid relying so heavily on these techniques in the future).

A table saw is probably what you need to do this properly but this is sort of a "poor mans fence".

My current workaround is to draw my cut line, and then clamp a straight edge ruler (or other material that's perfectly straight) 1" to the side. When I make my cut I know it will be perfectly straight if I keep the metal guide flush to the clamped piece the entire time.

This is also how I'm using my router with straight bits to make dado cuts (measure up 2 3/4" from the center line for my router guide)...I know there are probably better ways to do this but again, no table saw so I'm making due with what I know and what I've got.

• This might also be a decent purchase depending on your needs:
  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007K5HIFS/
  
  
• For fun, here's another similar item for converting a hand drill to a portable drill press:
  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/
  
  
  Those are both probably tools/adapters which are not going to be better than a table saw or drill press but they're also appealing for those with limited budget or limited work space.

Craftsman Table Saw Model # $150


Shop Fox model #G8826 fence system $275


Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10-Inch 40 Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade $80


Wilton 15” drill press $100


Parks 12” planer $600 This requires a little road trip

Atlas 6” jointer $150 Model #


Delta 10” bandsaw, Powerkraft radial arm saw and Rockwell contractor table saw $200
I would resell one of the tablesaws Just pick the nicest one and sell the other.


Oneway Multi Gauge $97 This is for setting the jointer perfectly and the dial indicator can be removed to make planer setting jig as described by Bob Vaughan (see youtube) or fine woodworking 107.


Angle block set for machine setup $30


Bessey Bar Clamps $14x3 plus maybe $10x3 for bars Say $75 total


Stanley sweetheart chisel set of 4 $80



This leaves $243 left for misc things like drill bits, planer/jointer knives or sharpening F style clamps a cordless drill, random orbit sander, sand paper ect.

Yeah, that would have made sense, but at this point I really just wanted a turnkey solution - I was getting pretty burnt out on the project. I like the planer a lot. The blades that come with it leave a lot to be desired, but you can get a number of upgrades for that: high speed steel, or the crazy helix style with replaceable blades if you have disposable income.

The one and only upgrade I would absolutely do every time is a digital readout like this one I got from Rockler, which makes the machine 10000000% more precise.

Any contractor saw would be excellent. You should look for saws with the motor hanging out the back, they're better than the direct drives. Everyone here loves the delta -I cant remember the number- or the Rigid, but I've got a mid 90s craftsman with new freud blades and it cuts very smoothly. I tuned it up following youtube's guides and then every time i adjust the fence have to square it up for 2 minutes cause I havent had time to build a biesemeyer fence yet. I got these two saw blades 24 tooth FTB and 60 tooth ATB

Build yourself a crosscut sled for 10$ worth of wood and I used it for rabbets and Miter-ing. This table saw is a pretty decent deal. Bet he'd take 300 for it

Dont be afraid of used things, youtube will tell you how to make it pretty decent.

I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.

• Micro Jig Gripper
  
• Dado Stack
  
• incra v27
  
• Digital level/Angle finder for making sure your blade is at 90 or 45 degrees
  
  

Look for a micro-jig http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-SP-2-TK-Splitter-Steelpro/dp/B00B03PMY0.

Splitters keep the saw kerf from pinching on the blade causing safety issues like kickback, or keep the piece between the blade and fence past the saw cut from riding up the blade and thowing the piece back at you. Some kickbacks can cause your hand to be drawn right into the blade.

Riving knives are even better but not available on some older models.

They are pretty important for safety reasons. They serve two purposes, keeping the cut piece pushed against the fence and keeping the cutoff piece from pinching closed and binding on the blade.

> Woodworker II 40T

Wow, that blade is more expensive than my saw. What's the second best blade? :)

Based on the Woodworker II specs, it looks like this from Freud might produce similar results at a lower cost.

I have the 5100 and bought the dado insert off amazon. It looks like yours uses a different model, but this looks right for yours.
I use the Freud 8 in stack and your saw looks like it also takes 8 in diameter. That set is great.

These are good too: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

They can hold the peice and the offcut so that helps prevent kickback.

Take your time, cut slowly and keep your eye on the blade as if you push the price through to fast it won't like it.

Practice makes perfect. Good luck
Edit: spelling

This thing has been great: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

I feel so much safer using it than I did using crappier push-sticks. The videos really show how you can use safely, and it's quick and easy to adjust.

The size of the kerf really starts to add up when making these.

If you plan to keep making more of these, investing in a good thin kerf blade is a great idea. It can save you over an inch in both the length and width.

Blade I use: http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ/ref=sr_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457022120&sr=1-17&keywords=thin+kerf+saw+blades+10-inch

I have 6" from Oshlun that are truly the best value. I also have 8" Forrest Dado King which are very nice, but debatable over whether they are worth the money.

If you are going to do a ton of Fine Wood Working dados then get the Forrest, but otherwise the Oshlun is where the money should go.

I haven’t used one of these, but they make a lot of angle grinder attachments. I imagine something like this would be good for roughing.

That is a great deal on a good saw.

Now, do yourself a favor and get a Forrest Woodworker II to put in your new baby.

Some are, some aren't. I picked up the Incra V27 for my old Craftsman and it works great. The runners are slightly adjustable so they fit perfectly.

Oh yeah I'm sure he does. That probably makes all the difference in this kind of stuff. I've done endgrain with my dad's Ryobi planer with 2 flat blades and it works ok. Lots of tear out on the back end of course. I've got my eye on this with this sexy beast. mmmmmfff...

You’ve got a fence, right? If so, buy a decent blade, watch a few safety vids and go for it.

You’ll figure out what needs to be fixed as you go along.

Try to spend more time working wood than getting your tools perfect.

Here’s a good blade to start: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_CcqyCbGEFW31T

As far as the dado is concerned, I grabbed one of these with great success. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426348245&sr=8-1&keywords=Freud+SBOX8

Lancelot is what you use. I do quite a bit of log work and there's nothing better to shape than than this tool.


And yes, it's extremely dangerous...and fun :)

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D1060X-10-Inch-PermaShield-Coating/dp/B00008WQ30/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade&qid=1564076055&s=gateway&sprefix=freud+10&sr=8-4.
Not thin kerf but i think you'll have better luck than one with less teeth

I have a Freud D1050X Diablo 10-Inch 50-tooth ATB Combination Saw Blade in my amazon wish list (for my table saw). Everyone seems to love them...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ2Z

awesome! i heard about this. Good to hear that it does work.

Looks like amazon has one for $83

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426348245&sr=8-1&keywords=Freud+SBOX8

For the cost of a blade just to save an extra ~0.025 inches or whatever or wood you can just buy a LOT more board feet of lumber instead. Or resaw on a bandsaw.

I think the blade that dewalt comes with is technically close to thin kerf (3/32 ~= 0.095 I think I have the same blade that came with my Dewalt..24 tooth 0.095 kerf).

A normal kerf is 1/8 or 0.125, to go even thinner you are talking like 1/32 of an inch less per cut I don't think you'll find a 1/16 blade for a TS and if you do it will cost a lot.

A 56.00 Freud thin kerf blade is also basically the same as what's in your saw https://www.amazon.ca/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-Ripping-Perma-Shield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526935425&sr=8-3&keywords=freud+thin+kerf

So just save your money on a new blade and buy more lumber

Every single time, before you hit the ON button count your fingers and remind yourself a razor sharp blade will be spinning at 3450 rpm in the area your hands are about to travel. Two more inserts for angled blade and dado use would be good.

Invest in a Forrest Woodworker II and a blade dampener. You will never be sorry and they have the best sharpening/rehab service you will find. It will last you a long time. http://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372303400&sr=8-1&keywords=forrest+blade+10+inch

nice, now save up for a few more and get the helical cutters, totally worth it https://www.amazon.com/Byrd-Tool-Shelix-cutterhead-Dewalt/dp/B008CS2QAE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526271684&sr=8-1-fkmr0

I'll never fault someone for erring on the side of caution, and it only has to save you once for the 2k to be worth it, but all you really need is something like this - where the blade passes under the tool.

Amazon has the Dewalt 735x for $544.59. The X is the one with the in/outfeed tables and an extra set of blades. It is a very good thickness planer. There is also a third party helical head for it.

I use the diablo blade you linked to; it's great. Slightly cheaper on amazon.

Before those, I used these blades, and for $20, they're hard to beat.

Yes, combo blades are a fine alternative to high or low tpi blades. The only time I've ever used a 24tooth ripping blade is when I need the flat top grind for flat bottomed grooves for splines.

Ha.. That is exactly why I got them. There are 2 that I have.
This is the MicroJig one - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GB-1-GRR-Rip-Block/dp/B00DNX3N7S
And the other is the GRRRipper - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC
If you can afford it, get the 2 pack of the GRR Ripper. I like that one best.

I'd recommend a combination blade. Works great for someone getting started. Changing blades is a hassle https://www.amazon.com/D1050X-Diablo-50-tooth-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FS75W1HYKCW1CS1P4VTB

With the fence locked into place a short distance from the saw blade, and with the saw unplugged, take a measuring tape or ruler and measure the distance from one tooth at the front of the blade to the fence, then, rotate the blade so that tooth is now at the back of the blade and measure again. If the measurements are identical then your fence is square. That is the single most important aspect to getting use out of that table saw, aside from it actually running.

My fence was not consistently square so I made one that was. I also replaced the miter gauge with this. I also switched to a link belt. With the amount that I have to shorten the belt, every 3rd full belt that I buy should allow me to make a 4th belt with the leftovers. I have not replaced my pulleys with machined pulleys yet, but I'm not sure that I'll need to. I did also get a PALS kit as a precautionary measure. Leecraft makes some nice zero clearance inserts and Micro Jig makes a splitter insert kit that will help prevent your cuts from binding on the blade.

Aside from that, there are restoration video playlists on Youtube for the 113 series table saws in all their various sub-types.

Pair them up with a set of MJ splitters and it's a beautiful thing when you push that first board through the blade like buttah.

I had some issues with my 4512 also bogging down. I bought a Freud 24 tooth thin rip blade and it works great. I haven't had any problems since. The thinner the kerf the easier it is for the saw to cut.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH

The table looks amazing! Going off the one picture where you were using a straight edge as a guide for your circular saw, which looked like it would've done an excellent job, but here's the regular tool for future projects where that setup may not fit.

Good looking chair! My wife wants me to build he an Adirondack; did you find particular plans? Or make some yourself?

Also, for a quick fix until you get a router table, I've heard good things about the Bench Dog Bench Cookies. I just got a set myself but haven't used them for holding a small piece while I rout yet. Perhaps someone who has these can weigh in on how well they work.

Agreed on the tooth count. I've had decent luck crosscutting hardwood with this blade and a slow feed rate. It isn't perfect, and I have an 80 tooth blade on my wish list for that reason.

A scrap board and 2 clamps will make you a fence. Just make sure you clamp it square.

Or you can do as I did and spend $40 on one of these which should give you a nice straight cut on larger stock. (Can't vouch for the use personally - just got mine for Christmas and haven't had a chance to play with it yet. Theory is sound, though.)

Thanks, I’ve been looking into this. Anybody have experience with this (MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B03PMY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bmKyCbBQ5E1XN) product, seems easy to implement

Cross-cutting is easy enough, and so are sheet goods.
For ripping you'll want a featherboard and a push-stick. You could get a commercial push-stick like the Grr-ripper, or you could make your own. I prefer the "shoe" style from that page.

LeatheL has spot on advice, but don't forget if you ever plan on using a sled set-up you may find you don't have enough depth from a 6" set.

For what it's worth, I have been using a Freud 8" set since 2002, the teeth are all in great shape, I clean them when I have been cutting exotic woods like Jatoba or blackwood, or when they start to get a gummy build up. My 2 hp contractor saw has a hard time taking full passes set at 3/4" width, My 5hp cabinet saw has no problem taking full depth cuts at max width, but it leaves burn marks, so I always take a couple of passes.

This is the set I have had for 12+ years, if I upgrade it will be to the Freud SuperStack 8"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223O9/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00004RK0P&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1E6H0FQEW8YNTCZQ1BJ4

do it. It saved us a lot of money and weight. This tool saved us so much time: https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-Rip-Cut/dp/B007K5HIFS

Oh here's a video of the plywood ripping in action -
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nXsiJ3pFQXt10Fs65_MdHMJMFly2gAld/view?usp=sharing

Avoid this- https://youtu.be/ZUZ8hRm7a8g

Make this- https://youtu.be/uE9f4bp_wm8

Thank God you had your riving intalled!

Invest in some safety equipment like this- GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UZWFDb7PAEVH9

Even better, get this chainsaw tool attachment for your angle grinder. It goes through material like butter, it's magical. Then finish with a sand wheel or belt sander.

The absolute fastest way to grind out part of the log is to buy an attachment for an angle grinder. Stuff like this and this are pretty much geared towards grinding crap out.

A high quality blade will make a big difference. I use freud blades and love them. You could use a general purpose blade if you make both rip and cross cuts. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU83R010-10-Inch-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466877982&sr=8-6&keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade
If you make a lot of rip cuts https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466878111&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+10+inch+saw+blade+glue+line+rip is amazing.
I use thin kerf as i had a crappy table saw in the past and its easier on the saw.

This is awesome; especially if you can figure out how to take things down in 24" wide sections.

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-Rip-Cut/dp/B007K5HIFS

I haven't looked at the Kreg KMS7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge System yet, but I like that you can add a sacrificial fence and still use the flip stop.

I did look at the Incra MITER1000SE Miter Gauge Special Edition With Telescoping Fence and Dual Flip Shop Stop and INCRA Miter1000/HD Miter Gauge when I went to Rockler awhile back. Though these both have telescoping fences with dual flip stops, it doesn't look like you can add a sacrificial fence and still use the included fence stops. The sacrificial fence would help reduce tear-out.

I just bought one of these to try on my table saw: https://www.amazon.com/MJ-SPLITTER-SteelPro-Kerf-MICROJIG/dp/B003E623C0

At least for straight cuts using a zero-clearance table saw insert, I'm hoping it will make things a little safer.

I just bought this and am very happy with it.

Oshlun SDS-0842 8-Inch 42 Tooth Stack Dado Set with 5/8-Inch Arbor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012YF25Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_X8n1wbG1NCXW4

I also have the polished Freud SD208 and have been very happy.

Bummer. Seems like a pretty good price though, especially for canuckistan.

This got me looking at Freud industrial blades in the US with a flat cut and led me to this.. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU84R011/dp/B0000225V8

Thin kerf version here: https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU83R010/dp/B00020JOAA

For a miter gauge I'd recommend something like this which you can then expand by attaching a long board to the face.

well let's look at the amazon order I just made.

camera - $200

tablet - $180

shirt - $20

shirt - $20

heart thing for wife - $70

loppers - $30

bt headphones - $50

foodsaver - $100

jeggings (wife) - $20

bra (wife) - $30

plan weights - $10

socks - $10

That leaves me with another $260 to spend...

I'm going to delete the wife stuff and the socks...

and go $10 over by buying a PS4 - $400

I can buy games for it later

I've watched my dad do this quite a few times. He takes a drill and drills depth holes every few inches to get the profile of the seat defined. Then after that he uses an angle grinder attachment like this to rough out the shape down to where the drill holes end. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000224SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_L7m5wb6709E6B

From there he usually finishes up with a random orbital sander.

It's really going to come down to you using it, if it's making bad cuts then it might be worth exchanging for another to see if the issue persists or if maybe it's supposed to be that way. I just checked amazon canada and they have an Olshun for $77 in the warehouse, might be worth a shot--often times when I order there it's just the packaging that got beat up but the items are pretty much new

They'll definitely work, just be very careful with that old saw. I would suggest you add in a splitter.

MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B03PMY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YOMOBbGMGV4PH

Yeah, be really careful, I tried setting it on top of some bench cookies once when I was new, and I broke my router and ruined the wood, it was a big hunk too, always play safe!

It was the weekly sticky thread, I couldn’t find anything in the wiki either. Recommended one, which I like was an Oshlun. Cheap one was a Mibro.

Wife bought me a Byrd head for mine after one magically appeared on her wishlist ($340 on Amazon). Holy shmokies I didn't think that something that worked so well already could be THAT MUCH better. I haven't had an upgrade on anything ever make that much difference. Add that to your list. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CS2QAE/?coliid=I2JHDA29KV3K9L

This is what I have and I've always gotten good results.

*the dewalt has the same number of teef. durrrrr

It kind of depends on the saw you have. If it is a portable saw buy the .091 kerf here:https: //smile.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU83R010/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=pd_sim_469_13?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YMMS6DY84H49CKS4C9GW
If it is a bigger saw that can handle the load buy this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000225V8/ref=psdc_552342_t1_B00020JOAA
Both are great blades and the full kerf gives a much better cut on a full size saw but the smaller saws can't handle removing that much material. I use the thin kerf in my "jobsite" saw. I use Freud's 1/8" kerf line of blades in my cabinet saw. You can have them sharpened 3-4 times for about $12 each time.

I really like the oshlun dado set. I have had it for years and it still works great. Not sure how big of a table saw you have but an 8 inch dado stack will put a lot of strain on the motor. A six inch version will be plenty for most woodworkers.

I've liked the rip cuts I get from my Freud thin kerf rip blades.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM75R010-10-Inch-8-Inch-Arbor/dp/B001V5J4QY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-2&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421010296&sr=1-1&keywords=freud+thin+rip+blade

The thin blade eats less wood and for underpowered saws like mine works well.
I prefer the FTG blade because it's a little more aggressive and doesn't leave the tiny triangle of wood in the corners if you use it for a non through cut. Not an issue for re saws though.

You ever try anything like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-035-Cookie-Grippers/dp/B0037Z7D0A/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347067719&sr=1-2&keywords=woodworking

Was wondering if they work.

Steve Ramsey likes the Gripper from Microjig: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

You can use this set for the 7480 and 745. It's been sitting in my wish list waiting for a project where I need it.

Freud 8" x 20T Box Joint Cutter Set (SBOX8)

I got this one and I am loving it. Smooth cuts both ways. It is cheaper at lowes though.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OJJXZC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_uZBVub1AA3FET

A single blade, with or without contractor pricing. But you can't get a tablesaw blade worth buying at Home Depot.

Edit: Pretty much anything made by Forrest, but get the right blade for the job. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Forrest-WW10407125-Woodworker-10-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B0000223VQ

We buy them locally, but getting them online isn't too much more expensive.

This may fit your table saw. It fits a dewalt dw745 https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Joint-Cutter-Joints-SBOX8/dp/B000ASGV1E

There's the reason why the Forrest WWII 40t blade sells like hotcakes.

I recommend this blade. It makes fantastic cuts, even on plywood, but I typically make two passes on plywood one on either side.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-P410-Premier-10-Inch-PermaShield/dp/B000JNTG76

I see a lot of people saying another drill, but I'd rather have a saw and a crappy drill than two drills. If he works with a lot of flat boards, I'd say a circular saw and something like this. If he works more with dimensional lumber, a miter saw would be better.

If you only paid $30 bucks for the saw and the motor is good sink some money into a good blade, possible thin kerf. That dewalt blade that is in there is a piece of shit.

This should do quite nicely.

I was looking at this one but it would seem that the one you linked to has finer teeth and can be used to create much wider dados. The blades are made to go into a table saw (you may need a new insert to account for the width of the blades) and you run your piece over the blades to remove material of the desired width.

edit: i accidentally a word

If you do attempt this on your machine, you will want a thin-kerf rip blade, 20-30 teeth. The thin kerf will reduce the load on your machine.

Heres a decent Freud one for under 40 bucks from Amazon.

I bought this for such a cutting problem. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007K5HIFS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What kind of table saw are you using, it's important for kerf sizing

If you're using a saw that can handle full kerf blades:

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Combination-Blade-LU84R011/dp/B00004T7A4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478446733&sr=8-2&keywords=freud%2Bcombo%2Bblade&th=1

Otherwise, thin a quality thin kerf blade:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=psdc_552342_t1_B0000225V8

I have the same saw and my go-to blades are Diablo.

Freud D1060X Diablo 10-Inch 60 Tooth ATB Fine Finish Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1UNkybP6DN0CR

I've got a DeWalt DWE7480, and my only complaint about it is the short arbor that can't use dado blades (with a handful of exceptions apparently, although I don't have a set yet). The fence and fence lock are fantastic. The dust collection leaves something to be desired too, but that's not a surprise or in any way unusual for a small portable saw.

I've got an Oshlun stacked dado set with spacers. I like the sled you posted and mine is similar but I think I need to make a changes to both my key and maybe pull a shim out of my stack.

Here's my sled

For nearly the same price as the big box Diablo's, the Freud branded Industrial line is supposed to be longer lasting. I just ordered the 50 tooth from Amazon Link

Here is the HD Diablo equivalent Link

And whats wrong with clamping a piece of wood down? Or yo could use this and your existing saw and save yourself $400. https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-Rip-Cut/dp/B007K5HIFS/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1473784486&sr=1-14&keywords=kreg+jig

Don't do this. Please do not do this.

You would get better results with some guides (like this or this) and a couple of sawhorses for the larger cuts. For smaller cuts I would use a miter box or a bench hook and a hand saw.

Designing and building a fence system that would stay parallel to the blade would take too long. If it is not perfectly parallel, or moves while cutting you are going to pinch the wood you are ripping. This is going to result in a board being rammed into your stomach, or a circular saw breaking free of its mount and flying around with a spinning blade. Either way, you are going to have a bad day.

Sounds like the one I have. [Here it is on Amazon](Irwin Tools 1807368 Marples Laser Cut 10-Inch 50-Tooth Alternate Tooth Bevel with Raker Tooth Circular Saw Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OJJXZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qgOwzb0MM3KT1).

I am assuming I could bring bunch of angle grinder wheels alongside. Like for instance this thing as well: https://www.amazon.com/King-Arthurs-Tools-45822-Lancelot/dp/B0000224SJ

It would not only let you cut down trees, but you could also make stuff like this with it: https://i.imgur.com/5CSCi8E.jpg

Also assuming there is a plain wreck somewhere you could use the other wheels to salvage and make other tools with it.

Angle grinders are incredibly versatile.

yes, I use it a lot and it works fine. It's a dado that will do 1/4" and 3/8", but 3/4" is too risky. The comments specify people using it for the 745: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ASGV1E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can't decide on which Dado set. Have decided to go with 6" for my 1 1/4 HP saw. But can't decide between Ohslun and the Freud. Just tell me what to do.

I can only imagine the possible kick out when using one of these chain saw grinding wheels

I have the same saw and I use the Freud SD208

Here ya go GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TcSXBbPYTVK0F

That's beginner level.

For only double the price! http://www.amazon.com/Byrd-Tool-Shelix-cutterhead-Dewalt/dp/B008CS2QAE/

I am looking at this Freud set. How is it? Link

One vote for GRR-Rippers.

Why build a chainsaw when you can buy one of these ?

I got a 8" set from Oshlun for Christmas. I can't wait to use them! http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SDS-0842-8-Inch-Tooth-Stack/dp/B0012YF25Q

Now you need one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008CS2QAE/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_2_10?colid=281352E1OK511&coliid=I1SWHCA3UXVO82

http://www.lowes.com/pd_89913-46069-PCB220TS_0__?productId=3163783

with a http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

No worries. Don't forget to grab you a good combo blade. I know it may seem high, but the Forrest WWII is where it's at. I have two I use in rotation when one is off being sharpened.

The only blade you need: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VQ/

What are people's thoughts on this dado set and this thin kerf blade? I just got both for early Christmas gifts, but it's not too late to return them to Amazon for other options if these won't be great.

I had your exact problem with my Dewalt DWE7480 (just a bit newer version of your saw).

[This] (https://www.amazon.ca/Freud-SBOX8-Cutter-4-Inch-Grooves/dp/B000ASGV1E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524245560&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+box+joint+cutter+set) is what you're looking for.

It's obviously not as ideal as a full dado stack, but gets the job done. I used it for cutting tenons on 8/4 stock and it leaves a nice clean/straight cut.

If you don't want to change your blade for crosscuts or rip cuts get a combo. I use the Diablo D1050X the price is right and let's be honest, your gonna sand anyway I don't care how good the cut is, it ain't gonna be no 220 grit finish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ2Z/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w

Never mind my suggestion, it'll probably ruin your veneer.

Depending on the finish needed, you might want to switch to using a blade with less teeth - something made more for ripping.
A smaller blade, with just as many teeth won't be any cheaper to resharpen.
I just got the following blade (Freud LU87R010 10-Inch 24-Tooth - http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R010-10-Inch-24-Tooth-PermaShield/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381425527&sr=1-1&keywords=freud+lu87), so I can't commend on its longevity, but it seems more suited to your needs.
Should be at least half as expensive to resharpen.

I have the same saw and I bought this for it -- https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Tooth-Ripping-Blade-LU87R010/dp/B0000225UH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506016279&sr=8-1&keywords=thin+kerf+saw+blades+10-inch

I like the thin kerf as you don't have to worry about it bogging down if you cut anything thick, and I do mostly rip cuts. I've ripped and cross cut plywood with a thin maple veneer and haven't had any issues with tear out either.

The single best thing I ever did in my shop was build a proper outfeed table for my table saw. It doubles as a work space, a catch all and a decent finishing table if I throw something on top of it not to mess it up.

Its not fancy by any means but it works. Its MDF and 2x4's but it works flawlessly.

I technically have the room for sheet goods in my shop (its 10x21) but it would be a pain in the ass moving sheet goods in and out of a 36" door. Instead consider ripping them down with a circular saw with one of these. Its very very accurate and makes short work of long cuts. I put my sheet goods on a set of saw horses and can break it down into easier to manage pieces with ease. I was even able to completely redo my closet ripping down 3/4" MDF with that rip guide.

Don't take chances with your health brother. Its just not worth it.

Byrd shelix cutterhead for DW735 planer on amazon right now for $207 - insane price!

https://www.amazon.com/Byrd-Tool-Shelix-cutterhead-Dewalt/dp/B008CS2QAE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542995854&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=byrd+shelix+dw735&psc=1

​

For a general purpose blade I would recommend one. They are cheap but still decent quality and good for 90% of your cuts. I have this one and have no complaints as a hobbyist
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_HFBSzbCZA2EXX

I used a circular saw with a straightedge jig at first but then I purchased the Kreg Rip-Cut. I didn't use it much before I got my $150 craftsman 113 belt drive-cast iron wings-table saw, and I think I might have used it (the kreg) once since then. If you make that straight edge guide, make sure the fence part is wide enough to place clamps on, and clear the saw motor while remaining clamped.
If your cutting wood more narrow than the jig, I screwed a stop block/riser, the same thickness as the piece being cut, from underneath and clamped the whole thing to a table, sandwiching the piece to be cut in between.

Ya, the table saw guard is a combination splitter, blade guard as well as pawls on either side to prevent the workpiece from reversing direction. When I was first starting to use it I made some dumb mistakes and shot some small boards right past me because I got mine used and it didn't come with part of the guard assembly. Fortunately I had watched enough safety videos and things to know to stay out of the way of the blade so it did not hit me, but still was not a pleasant experience. I have since bought the missing piece and use the splitter and guard whenever I can.

As far as a multipurpose blade, I went with a combination blade so I don't have to change blades when doing rips vs. cross cuts. This is the one I got:

http://www.amazon.com/D1050X-Diablo-50-tooth-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2Z/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1407533481&sr=8-4&keywords=diablo+10%22+blade

I have found it to cut plenty clean for my needs.