Reddit mentions: The best scanners & testers

We found 340 Reddit comments discussing the best scanners & testers. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 76 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

3. General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter, Water Leak Detector, Moisture Tester, Pin Type, Backlit LCD Display With Audible and Visual High-Medium-Low Moisture Content Alerts, Grays

    Features:
  • HUMIDITY SENSOR: Our handy meter tool can quickly determine what level of remediation is needed to keep your family safe from black mold. High levels of dampness that go untreated are the leading cause of harmful fungus growth in the home.
  • WATER LEAK DETECTOR: Finding the moisture content in your wood or drywall is the first step in early prevention. Continuously check and test suspicious water stains around the house so you can determine whether the area is wet or has already dried.
  • MOISTURE READER: The mold test features large 0.3" high digits in a backlit LCD for quick and easy detecting. Our mildew scanner includes extra 8mm stainless steel pins, a protective cap that doubles as a calibration checker, and a “9V” battery.
  • MOLD TESTER: For an accurate test read, stick the stainless steel pins into the surface of what you're measuring. The gauge has a broad range of 5 - 50% for wood and 1.5 - 33% for building materials such as concrete and drywall.
  • GENERAL TOOLS: We're a recognized leader in designing and developing specialized precision tools dedicated to delivering exceptional customer service. We encourage artisans and DIYers to work smarter, measure better, and repair more productively.
General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter, Water Leak Detector, Moisture Tester, Pin Type, Backlit LCD Display With Audible and Visual High-Medium-Low Moisture Content Alerts, Grays
Specs:
ColorGrays
Height1.4 Inches
Length5.55 Inches
Number of items1
SizePin Type
Weight1 Pounds
Width9.5 Inches
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9. Wood Moisture Meter, Dr.meter Digital Portable Firewood Wall Paper Water Moisture Tester, Digital LCD Display with 2 Test Probe Pin and one 9V Battery, Range 5% - 40%, Accuracy: +/-1%, MD812

    Features:
  • 【Precise Measuring, Wide Range】Get an accurate reading, every time. With a measuring range of 5% - 40% and an accuracy to within 1%, you'll be sure to know the exact status of your building materials, drywall, flooring, or other materials.
  • 【Includes Spare Pins】Don't let a broken pin slow you down. Always have a reliable and working meter thanks to the 2 spare integrated sensor pins we've included for your convenience. Powered by a 9V battery (Included).
  • 【Easy-Read LCD】Thanks to the large LCD screen, the Dr. Meter Wood Moisture Meter will keep you in the know with the easy-to-read display. Plus, this Moisture Tester has an ergonomic size so you can fit it in one hand to squeeze into small spaces.
  • 【Detect Waterlogged Wood】If you're buying lumber, you need to be sure the materials are in good condition. Protect yourself by using this wood moisture meter to detect possibly waterlogged wood.
  • 【Variety of Uses】Whether you're checking on the status of a construction site or thinking about buying new lumber, don't leave it up to guesswork. Use this meter for locating moisture in carpets, sub-flooring woodworking, in the construction and agriculture industries, as well as assessing damage after flooding.
Wood Moisture Meter, Dr.meter Digital Portable Firewood Wall Paper Water Moisture Tester, Digital LCD Display with 2 Test Probe Pin and one 9V Battery, Range 5% - 40%, Accuracy: +/-1%, MD812
Specs:
ColorMeasuring Range: 5%-40%, Accuracy: +/-1%
Height1.97 Inches
Length5.7 Inches
Number of items1
SizeMD812
Weight0.255625 Pounds
Width3.54 Inches
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11. Franklin Sensors FS710PROProSensor 710+ Professional Stud Finder with Built-in Bubble Level & Ruler,Yellow

    Features:
  • ACCURATE: More sensors = More accuracy. The ProSensor 710+ has 13 sensors. Conventional stud finders have 1 or 2 sensors. With more sensors, Franklin Sensors stud finders are the market’s most accurate and best stud finders. The ProSensor 710+ has a max detection depth of 1.6". The precision LEDs are spaced every 1/2" and track the location of studs while displaying the center and edges simultaneously.
  • EASY: One mode finds it all! It finds wood studs, metal studs and the ProSensor 710+ stud finder auto-selects the most accurate mode for changes in material or depth. No toggling between standard-scan and deep-scan. Also, with Franklin Sensors stud finders, no calibration is required. Just press and hold the button to begin your scan. Additionally, you can start over a stud, unlike other stud sensors that give false readings. It is undoubtedly the most intuitive stud finder on the market.
  • SHOWS THE CENTER AND EDGES OF STUDS SIMULTANEOUSLY: The ProSensor 710+ saves you time by showing you more of what is behind the wall. It displays the center and edges of studs simultaneously, shows double studs and irregular configurations found in older homes that other stud finders cannot detect.
  • DURABLE: Designed for all users from homeowners to DIY enthusiasts to professionals, the ProSensor 710+ stud finder is accurate and durable. It saves you time while still being tough enough to withstand being dropped off a ladder or tossed into a toolbox.
  • EXTRA FEATURES: Integrated Ruler and bubble level
Franklin Sensors FS710PROProSensor 710+ Professional Stud Finder with Built-in Bubble Level & Ruler,Yellow
Specs:
ColorYellow
Height2.7 Inches
Length7.5 Inches
Weight0.4 Pounds
Width3 Inches
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16. Wood Moisture Meter - Digital Moisture Detector Moisture Tester, Pin-Type Water Leak Detector Damp Tester Dampness Meter for Wood Building Material Firewood Walls Paper Floor (Silver)

    Features:
  • 【ACCURATE & QUICK MEASURING】- FIND HIDDEN WATER LEAKS IN WALLS AND SURFACES. Designed with 2 high precision pins, penetrate into the test surface and quickly know the moisture level in your walls,give you an estimate of the potential for moisture growth throughout your home.Tavool moisture meter for wood is the best way to identify the location of moisture buildup.NOTE:the Botanical name of RED OAK and WHITE OAK on the user manual list is “Quercus spp”, please switch to MODE “A” when testing!
  • 【PROFESSIONAL DEVICE FOR WOOD MEASURING】- 8 CALIBRATION SCALES, FIND OUT THE %MC OF MANY DIFFERENT WOOD TYPES. Our wood moisture detector sensor is a great tool for manufacturers, flooring installers, inspectors, and lumber suppliers to quickly and easily scan the %MC (Moisture Content) in their wood products.You can quickly know the %MC is Low (5-12%), Medium (12-17%) or High (17-60%). Easily check %MC before purchasing or using expensive lumber and hardwoods and avoid cracks, splits, warping.
  • 【USER FRIENDLY, SIMPLE TO UNDERSTAND】- EASY TO USE,BIG LED DISPLAY with BACKLIT, HOLD FUNCTION. Our Digital Moisture Detector designed with Large easy-to-read Backlit LED screen, and Hold key freezes readings.Moreover, it features Memory function,Max/Min moisture measurement,Temperature in C/F display and Automatic Power-off in 10 minutes without operation. This MULTI-FUNTIONAL moisture tester has sturdy, hand-friendly shape and rubber side grips let you take multiple measurements in comfort.
  • 【TWO MEASURING MODE】- DESIGNED WITH WOOD and BUILDING MATERIAL TO MEET ALL YOUR NEEDS. Tavool moisture meter tester is ideal to use in WOODWORKING, BUILDING CONSTRUCTION, AGRICULTURE RESTORATION and floor-laying.The moisture contents of wood products such as hardwood flooring, cabinets, furniture, lumber, slats, beams, plywood, paneling, conglomerates, window frames, forestry wood, rolled products, building materials and more can be measured. A MUST HAVE DEVICE TO MAKE YOUR WORK EAISER.
  • 【WHY CHOOSE TAVOOL MOISTURE METER】-Features LED display, wide measuring range(Wood: 6%-60%, Building materials: 0-40%), strong stainless steel pins, automatic shutdown function(10minutes) hold on function, Lightweight and easy carrying. By using Tavool mositure meter for working, professionals can ensure that they have consistent results!
Wood Moisture Meter - Digital Moisture Detector Moisture Tester, Pin-Type Water Leak Detector Damp Tester Dampness Meter for Wood Building Material Firewood Walls Paper Floor (Silver)
Specs:
ColorSliver
Height1.181102361 Inches
Length3.543307083 Inches
Weight0.18 Kilograms
Width5.905511805 Inches
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17. PERLESMITH Stud Finder Wall Detector 5 in 1 - Electronic Stud Sensor Wall Scanner Center Finding - with Battery LCD Display for Wood Metal Studs AC Wire Detection

    Features:
  • ► MOST CONVENIENT LEVEL TOOL: Our 9 inch leveling tool boasts a compact size and is lightweight but extremely accurate, making it super reliable and easy to carry or pack in your tool box. Featuring two practical holes at each end, easily hang it for alternative storage until the next time you’ll need it.
  • ► PREMIUM QUALITY – HIGHLY DURABLE: Made using exclusively high quality materials and heavy duty aluminum alloy frame, high durability and accuracy of our torpedo level is guaranteed. The bright color makes it easy to spot in your tool bag or job site and the convenient top opening gives you more viewing options.
  • ► THREE MEASUREMENT OPTIONS: Three clear, large and yellow acrylic vials allow you to read plumb, level and 45 degrees in any lighting conditions from many angles and provides maximum readability with no hassle and for no mistakes.
  • ► PRACTICAL MAGNETIC EDGE: Featuring a strong holding magnetic side, our magnetic torpedo level is also ideal for steel construction work and conveniently attaches to iron pipes, conduits or any other iron surface easily for a convenient non-slip measurement.
  • ► USE IT FOR ANY PROJECT: Whether you are a home or business owner, contractor, carpenter or DIY’er, you can easily use our leveler tool for any project. Designed for decoration, furnishings, leveling floating shelves or space between hangers and any other leveling related work.
PERLESMITH Stud Finder Wall Detector 5 in 1 - Electronic Stud Sensor Wall Scanner Center Finding - with Battery LCD Display for Wood Metal Studs AC Wire Detection
Specs:
Height1.7 Inches
Length6.7 Inches
Width3.2 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on scanners & testers

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where scanners & testers are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 22
Number of comments: 4
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Total score: 7
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Relevant subreddits: 1

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Top Reddit comments about Scanners & Testers:

u/ard3nt_lustr3 · 2 pointsr/Tools

i'm not a fan of buying kits or any sort of bargain tool sets. you get what you pay for and those i have found are usually not worth thier weight.

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start with the basics. for pliers and screwdrivers i'd go for Klein Tools. thier 11-in-1 screwdriver is usually all I needed when going to figure out a problem in a tenant's apt. they even make precision screwdrivers. a pair of linesman plier and needlenose are both super handy. an adjustable wrench is a great tool to have. always helpful to not have to go digging for the right size. pump pliers are prefect for any stuck valve or even to get your garden hose on and off. i'd also get a voltage tester. if you do anything with electrical wiring before you zap yourself you can test if the power is on or off.

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for a tape measure you can't go wrong with a classic Stanley. there's lots of options in this department. stanley also makes decent saws. for general purposes the SHarptooth will work. hack saws are for cutting any sort of metal. a general socket set is also good to have. if you're working with any sort of wood you'll need a good block plane. same goes for for chisels. if you're nailing on trim you'll need a nailset so you can hit the head of the nail and not the wood around it.

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there's lots of types of utility knives available too. Stanley still makes thier classic model. Dewalt recently released a snap-off blade knife that's all-metal. i have a half dozen already, they feel good in your hand and it's easy to get a new sharp edge. Milwaukee makes flip-open utility knifes that are pretty handy too. or you could go for a classic Olfa. that metal tail doubles as a paint can opener.

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a good pair of Aviation Snips will do a lot for you. they're great for cutting sheet metal, siding, metal fencing or even some plastics.

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i buy all my Squares and Levels from Empire Tools. start with a torpedo level. they're the most handy and most often used in my kits. from hanging paintings to leveling your stove to building a workbench.

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i've had lots of hammers, currently use Stiletto ones but a good Estwing will last you a lifetime. they also make the best small pry bar.

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good paintbrushes are easy to find. Wooster makes a few. just make sure you clean them well after each use and store them either in the original packaging or wrapped in newspaper so you don't ruin the bristles.

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clamps are always handy in and around the house and shop.

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a good caulk gun like this Tajima is last you a lifetime.

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if you're doing any sort of furniture making get yourself a kregjig. it's a pocket hole jig. worth every penny!

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want to get fancy? get a stud finder. ditch the battery ones and go for a Studpop. it finds the screws or nails already holding up your drywall.

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don't know if you're considering cordless power tools. personally, i'd get into the Milwaukee M12 line. you can start with a basic set and expand from there. it's one of the largest lines of 12V tools and they're as powerful if not more powerful than some 18V tools. i know a plumber who uses them exclusively because every power tool he needs is run of the same battery. you can always add tools or bigger capacity batteries as you need them later from their full line.

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let me know if you want more info or ideas or need help sourcing particular tools. my brother used to run a tool and hardware store so i've been looking for the best of the best for years.

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u/EraserGirl · 3 pointsr/LivingAlone

Sturdy step stool ($40) - not the rickety tubular kitchen chair ones, I mean one where you can stand on the top. a Buy it for Life item, not inexpensive, but safe. https://www.amazon.com/Louisville-Ladder-AS3002-6966014-2-Foot/dp/B00182TWL2

Leatherman multi tool (around $50), which i keep in the junk bowl because I can never find a screwdriver fast enough. Pricey new, less expensive when you buy it second hand or in a pawn shop. they don't really break, but you do have to clean and oil them once a year. https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-Wingman-Multitool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B005DI0XM4/

Cordless drill (under $50), mine basically has the screw driver bit in it 90% of the time. the rest of the time I drill lots of pilot holes. pay attention to the battery... if you can get one with a battery that is shared by other tools in the line, then it is easily replaceable and if you buy another tool in that line you can swap batteries. I like to have 1 battery in the charger and one in the device. https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Cordless-Driver-BDCDD12C/dp/B0111N8L7I/

Spirit, bubble or torpedo level. (under $10) the Hanging kit usually contains just the wires and hooks, but you need a small spirit level for hanging pictures and shelves evenly. doesn't matter the brand they all work the same https://www.amazon.com/WilFiks-Leveling-Resistant-Different-Visibility/dp/B07M62GJYP/

Small tool boxes vary in quality. I don't know if this is for you or someone else. But don't buy anything unless it's a NAME BRAND, cheap metal tools bend and can break with too much torque. Even the Stanley line that Walmart sells isn't fabulous, but it's better than a nameless brand. I don't like SETS of tools, but you need to start someplace, buy GOOD tools one at a time, I love finding $$$ tools at thrift stores. https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-94-248-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/(i bought a cheap socket set 4 years ago to replace my stolen ones and they already have rust)

Bucket organizer. (around $15) If you buy a SET of tools, take the plastic blow molded container and put it in the recycling. You will never bother putting the tools back in and when you get more tools they won't fit. Bucket Organizers are pockets that fit around a 5 gallon bucket. You shove your tools into the pockets and everything else in the middle. And keep it in the bottom of your closet and carry it to where you need the tools. https://www.amazon.com/Bucket-Boss-10030-Bucketeer-BTO/dp/B00GK4TOWK

Tack Hammer. (under $15) You won't need a big 22 oz hammer, but a smaller 16 oz one with a normal handled and then a Tack hammer, these have a narrow head and sometimes are magnetic and hold the nail in place. Tack hammers are easier to use for hanging things exactly where you want them. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-54-304-5-Ounce-Magnetic-Hammer/dp/B00002X1XD

Stud finder.(under $20) uses a battery, and lets you know where the studs are behind drywall. BEST PURCHASE EVER. https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Stud-Finder-Wall-Detector/dp/B07VLDTVFQ/ any brand will work fine.

Digital Infared Thermometer (under $20) Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun - ALSO BEST PURCHASE EVER... works in the kitchen for food and oven temp, fridge temp, and for locating drafts and cold spots around doors and windows. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G

Toilet Plunger - the sort with the extra bit on the end. https://www.amazon.com/Get-Bats-Out-Plunger-Bathroom/dp/B00ODD5MD0 you do NOT want to be waiting around for someone to unblock your toilet. It may be disgusting but scoop out some of what's in the toilet before you start plunging, it's less disgusting than having to mop it off the floor. You want the plunger that makes a seal around the bottom.

BUCKET. (under $10) mine is constantly in use, i keep it in the tub and toss wet things into it. I have gone through EVERY TYPE on offer...I was so sick of plastic buckets, that warped and stained, where the handles ripped out. But the BEST and cheapest one I have ever found is a flat back duraflex bucket for watering horses. Not kidding. Made of a hard polyethylene these things are designed to be flung around and stepped on by 2000 lb animals. https://www.amazon.com/LITTLE-GIANT-Flat-Back-Dura-Flex-Plastic/dp/B000HHLHPS/ these are cheap if you buy them in a feed store, but even with the shipping on Amazon it is WELL WORTH the money. You will need a bucket when you empty the back of the toilet tank to change the flushing flapper or gasket, and you will need it when you empty the commode itself, if you have to change out the wax seal underneath.

Blanket hangers. (6 for $27) yeah this is obscure, but when I moved I lost a LOT of storage space. These saved my sanity. I use them to hang up quilts and sleeping bags in the back of the closet OFF SEASON. I also use them to hang blankets, sheets curtains and stuff once they come out of the laundry aren't quite dry. I didn't even know there was such a thing before now I wouldn't give them up. https://www.amazon.com/Stock-Your-Home-Comforter-Organization/dp/B00EUG51JU

Flashlight. ($30-50) I've written about these before. Until I bought a GOOD one, I had no idea how bad the others were. Cheap flashlights are great to have scattered about in the cellar, or in the junk drawer. but if you really want TO SEE, get a great flashlight. I gifted myself one for christmas one year and I love it. It hangs by the door and if I am going to be out very late or the weather is bad, I shove it in my bag. It will also illuminate Well past the end of the porch and into the yard if I hear a noise. https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Carded-SabreLite-Flashlight-Yellow/dp/B01CKAIYV4 any very good brand will do, but I found Maglites to be dangerously useless.

u/MyOther_UN_is_Clever · 56 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Lots of others have mentioned great projects, so let me give you a general overview of what you should know, and then you can tackle just about anything.

For every project:

  • Watch youtube videos for whatever you want to do until you're pretty comfortable. Make sure the person looks professional. "This old house" is a great resource.
  • ALWAYS take off jewelry and things like wallet chains. Wedding bands are especially notorious for electrical accidents or something awful called "Degloving." Google if you want to be horrified or have an iron stomach when looking at gore.
  • Most projects are "Safe" if you know how to disengage and engage the shutoffs and what to watch out for.
  • Assume whatever you're using is going to spread everywhere (sawdust) or get on things you'd never expect (spray foam on the nice rug 10' away). So cover them or move them.

    Electrical:

  • Buy a non-contact voltage tester. It'll tell you if you're about to shock yourself or not. Check it every time you walk away and come back. I also put masking tape over breakers I'm working on just in case somebody walks by and decides it needs to be flipped.
  • Always work with your right hand only (even if you're left handed). This is to keep a shock from traveling through your heart, which is on your left side of the body. Don't work on a wet/damp surface. Wear thick wool socks and shoes or boots with lots of rubber left on them.

    Plumbing:

  • find your whole-house water shutoff, and the shutoffs (if they're there) for the sink or wherever else you're working.
  • Also, if you do anything with compression fittings, under-tighten them (never over-tighten). Turn the water on (just a bit) and if it's dripping, do a quarter turn and wipe dry with a towel. Repeat until it's no longer dripping. If you overtighten them, they'll leak and you can't undo it without replacing the fitting. It took me 5 trips to Home Depot to learn this...

    General:

  • Never climb a ladder without somebody else around. Always take the time to go down it, if you have to fiddle with changing drillbits or something, or have the helper-person take care of it (and hold the ladder when needed). It doesn't matter how good your ladder is, if you're pushing against a wall with a drill, you can easily destabilize yourself.
  • Buy a deadman's switch that plugs in like an extension cord, and swap it to any saw or cutting device you are using (even the dremel). Alternatively, spend a few more bucks and get a variable speed foot pedal.
  • Don't do anything you don't feel like you "know" enough to do, yet.
  • Learn how blades buckle in saws, and about kickback, before using power saws.
  • Use a GOOD stud detector before going into the wall. If you hit something hard and you aren't sure what it is, back the drill out and take a look. You could be hitting a water pipe, an electrical cable, or are just unlucky and hit a nail in the stud.
  • Use goggles and hearing protection. Your ears don't feel pain. Power tools are louder and more damaging than they sound like.
  • Working with chemicals? Use a gas mask (I like a full painter's mask that incorporates eye protection, because they don't fog like goggles can with a mask on).
  • Working with dust, use a dust mask or gas mask.
  • If you have gas mask, you have to seal the cartridges or they go bad fast.
  • Go to Walmart (because it's much cheaper) and buy a gallon of their solvents before working with chemicals. Know which solvent works on what. Buy low VOC mineral spirits (if available), and acetone. Mineral spirits is going to be for exterior/oil paints, shellacs, and stains. Acetone is going to be for spray foam, certain adhesives, etc. Get an empty tin can with a lid for storing the "used solvent." Btw, I reuse my solvent several times, basically as a "prewash." The sediment falls to the bottom.
  • If you're working with something creating sparks (angle grinder) be aware of where those sparks are flying, have a nearby fire extinguisher, and if you can, dampen the area first (like mop your garage floor). Angle grinders combined with dust, sawdust, and/or scrap wood has started fires.
  • If working with oil based products/mineral spirits, learn how to properly dispose of things like brushes and rags, they can spontaneously combust if left in a heap!
  • Be aware that on high-end drills, there's a button that can lock them into "always on" mode.

    Tool List

  • Non-contact voltage tester (and other useful items)
  • 3M Full Face Gas Mask There's cheaper chinese knockoffs. You have to buy cartridges (get a set for dust and at least one set for VOC - aka gasses like mineral spirits and ammonia)
  • Variable Speed Foot Pedal Can be used like a deadmans switch by fully depressing.
  • Water/leak alarms for peace of mind or sudden failures
  • Stud finder with live AC and metal detection
  • Hearing Protection
  • Goggles (observe where the vents are and if it looks like dust can easily fall into them) or just use the face mask
  • Acetone
  • Mineral Spirits
  • Metal, lidded, disposal bucket. A paint bucket with a lid also works. Note that paint buckets are a different kind of plastic specifically made to resist solvents.
  • A large pack of disposable gloves (make sure they aren't something you or a helper are allergic to, eg latex).
  • Inspection Camera

    Projects to avoid as a beginner

  • Major reconstruction (wall removal)
  • Retaining walls over 1' tall
  • HVAC
  • Tile
  • Traditional wood plank flooring (BUT engineered/click-lock is super easy)
  • Plumbing that isn't compression fittings or threaded (aka, plex/sharkbite/welding)
  • Anything on the roof
  • Anything attached to the outside of your home (where you might inadvertently create leaks or rot in your exterior walls)
  • Precise woodworking (altering your cabinets in your kitchen)

    Projects I'd always recommend hiring out

  • Tile with real stone, metal or glass
  • Granite anything
  • Decks (probably, although make sure the deck builder knows how to properly attach to a house. 70% of decks in the USA aren't and are causing rot and damage)
  • Structural engineering (wall removal/additions, tall retaining walls)
  • Most HVAC
  • Solid wood plank floor or refinishing. (Refinishing is possible, it's just a good 10 hours of work per 50 sqft, or more, super dusty, and makes the house pretty unlivable. Easy to screw up. Best to get an experienced pro in to do it quickly).
  • Anything near your "mains" that feed into your breaker-box (the part coming from the electrical company). Such as replacing the breaker box itself.

    Home improvement is very satisfying and not all that hard. Most people have a story of being lazy once or twice and having a near accident. I've been shocked by 120v (like in your wall)... twice. I've had saw blades break. Just be safe for that 5% of the time you're using something dangerous, and never get too lazy to grab the safety gear.
u/teewuane · 1 pointr/homeowners

Assuming you had an inspection done you really don't have any tests to do as they all should already have been done. (Toxins in paint and such)

Locate your main water valve, main gas valve and meter, and breaker panel. Just so you know where they are. Open breaker panel, identify which breaker controls what. Hopefully they are marked.

Get a pair of bolt cutters. I've used mine many times for random jobs around the house. Speaking of tools, a basic $100 toolset comes in handy all the time and you'll never regret investing in a quality battery powered drill.

Change the code to the garage door opener.

Change locks on doors.

Take a lot of "before" pics. It's fun to look back and see how much your home has changed.

Look into rebates that are offered by your local utility companies ( electricity and gas). They'll usually give you free LED light bulbs, or great deals on random things like that. And where I live they'll even come out and do different audits for free to make sure things are running smoothly in your home.

Look into Sonic Internet in your area. I've heard good things about them lately.

Home improvement can quickly become overwhelming. Expect to get overwhelmed. Then expect to get inspired again.

Back to tools, get a quality stud finder. Not a hyped up beeping led one. Just a solid magnet one. Like this one. http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451979365&sr=1-1&keywords=stud+finder

Before you attempt to fix something, always just check out a video or two on YouTube. They will point out things like why you should not over tighten the bolts on your toilet. (I learned that one the hard way). Since then I always try to watch a video before fixing something. They will usually point out safety things and other "gotchas" that you should be aware of.

Can't think of much else right now. Good luck and congrats!

u/kathios · 3 pointsr/confession

Command strips is definitely the way to go, but I find for some things the piece of it that holds the item is too big and fat for some things.

Nailing is an art. The first thing you would do is get a stud finder to make sure you're nailing something into a board and not just your wall and air. Your wall can hold most light things but if it's something like a heavy mirror or even a heavy picture frame you definitely need to find a stud. This stud finder is magnetic and will find the nail in the stud.

Then you would want to get your drill with a drill bit that is smaller than the nail is. Drill a hole into the wall just slightly downward, or just go straight it if you're not confident with your angles. Only drill in a couple inches. Do not try to drill or nail right where the stud finder found the nail, considering that there is already a nail there. Up and down the entire length of the wall where the stud finder sticks to is fair game to nail things, and there should be another stud every X feet or so (it depends).

Now you can hammer your nail in, just go easy with nice even soft strokes. And hold the hammer all the way up by the metal part for accuracy.

This all probably sounds tedious for this one project, but if you plan on hanging up more and more things it's a good idea to practice your household handiness. good luck!



u/b1g_bake · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Z-wave is solid. It may not be "open" but they keep standards. That means devices work as they are supposed to across various controllers. Now there are some more exotic things that don't work everywhere. Like the Homeseer switches get some extra functionality when using Homeseer controller. Speaking of Homeseer, they have a rep that is active in this sub as well as reps from GE/Jasco and Innovelli. All three are great, and very helpful around here.

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I also like using a RTL-SDR usb dongle to grab the 433mhz signals(using rtl_433) from my acurite temp/humidity sensor. That's an open RF band and is easy to parse the data into json and send via mqtt to home assistant. People use that bit of software and hardware to grab RF data from a bunch of products that are never gonna end up in the smart home section of the store.

u/xiaodown · 25 pointsr/techsupportgore

It's not too terribly difficult, honestly. I enjoy it. There's a bunch of ways, but here's some tips that I have figured out.

  • Label your cable ends (either use a label maker or just get one of these booklets).
  • Two people make it go more than twice as fast. Buy pizza for a friend.
  • Leave the cable box at the source, pull cable to the destination.
  • Get a set of fish sticks for sending wire down/up walls. Buy a couple of rolls of electrical tape, too, for taping wire to the fish sticks.
  • Measure to the same height as the electrical outlets in the wall for a clean look. Get the same color faceplates and keystone jacks as the electrical system already has.
  • Make sure you use a stud finder with AC electrical alerting before you cut.
  • When you are ready to cut a hole in the wall, take a wall box eliminator, flip it backwards, and trace the inside with pencil. Then cut with a utility knife. I find that a dremel saves time but creates a LOT of dust, and really isn't that much easier.
  • Pull the cable (or fish stick) through until you've got a good 2-3 feet sticking out of the wall. If you think you're EVER going to need more than one jack in this room, run it now (it is easier to buy two boxes of cable than one, and run two cables simultaneously).
  • Put the wall box eliminator in the wall, and fold the tines back / screw the holders in (they all basically have some mechanism of "grabbing" the wall, to give you a hole in the wall with the two faceplate screw holes like an electrical wall box has, but without the box - which is safe because it's low voltage (don't do this for real electrical work!!!))
  • Cut off the first 6 inches or so of the cable with your dikes, because it might have been fucked up being taped to a fish stick and rammed through the wall, etc.
  • Strip off the outer jacket of another 4-5 inches using your cyclops stripping tool.
  • Terminate into the rj45 keystone jack using a punchdown tool.
  • Even though, technically, as long as the jacks have the same wiring pattern on both ends, in America, we use EIA/TIA 568-B as our wiring standard. This will be displayed on the side of your RJ45 jack.
  • In your wiring closet, leave a loop of 6 feet or so (for future upgrades/troubleshooting), and then terminate all the cable ends into a labeled patch panel.
  • Pop your RJ45 jack into the keystone hole in the faceplate. (tab down, you don't want dust to settle into the wire contacts), and screw in your faceplate. Label it, if you can do so and it looks nice ("Living Room 1", etc) so it corresponds to the patch panel in the basement/closet/etc.

    Congrats, you've run a cable! It's female at both ends, so you can just use a patch cable to run from the wall to your PC, and from the patch panel to your switch, to your modem/router, etc. This wire is now a part of the infrastructure of your house - you won't have to cut anything out when you leave, you just unplug the wires and leave the infrastructure for the next person.

    Hope this helps.
u/eddyathome · 3 pointsr/PennStateUniversity

If you have about $60 you could just buy them and have some tools that will serve you well as a renter and then you could help out your friends (and maybe get free beers or food off them).

I think you mean a stud finder.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/

It's less than ten bucks.

An adjustable wrench is about the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-23002-6-Inch-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B00FFUPS98/

For a cordless rechargeable you're talking about $40 for this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-Variable-Position-Masterworks-MW316/dp/B07CR1GPBQ/


I know you said borrow, but if you're renting it's good to have some basic tools for stuff like this and it's an investment to be honest. If you honestly can't get anyone to help, I already have the stud finder (metal detector), and wrench. It would be an excuse for me to finally get a drill. Let me know if nothing else works out.

u/Astramancer_ · 2 pointsr/DIY

There's kinda one like that.

Just to be clear, I have absolutely no idea if it's any good, please do your research before you buy one!

https://www.amazon.com/Walabot-Imager-Android-Smartphones-Compatible/dp/B06Y29NXKK

If it works as advertised, it should help with routing. You won't be able to just point it upwards, but you should be able to look at a given segment of wall, make sure it's clear, and then go upstairs to the corresponding segment of wall and do the same. Repeat until you've found a suitable path through all stories.

Please note that unless your house is an ancient deathtrap, there will be firebreaks between the floors that you'll have to drill through (be sure to use fire-rated foam to seal it back up!) regardless, so don't worry too much about finding a place with no top or bottom plates that you have to get through. Those should be everywhere.

You might be able to find walls above you by looking at the joists through the ceiling, but I imagine that'll take some practice. You might have better luck using a measuring tape and drawing a very accurate floorplan.

u/adamateur · 1 pointr/woodworking

The slab is about 3" thick throughout. I was told that it dried outside for almost 10 years before being planed and finished, but that was in the Philippines which has a much higher equilibrium moisture content. Also, it was moved from the Philippines to Nebraska. In February. A bit of a temperature change as well.

I bought this $20 moisture meter from amazon, and should be able to report the results this weekend: http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Meter%C2%AE-MD-812-Display-Digital-Moisture/dp/B008V6I840/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458875725&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+moisture+meter

I'm not around enough to do the job myself, and I trust a professional to do the job much better than I. I'll certainly be discussing the options with him though, so I'm very appreciative of your advice. I spoke to a few different people, some who recommended just epoxy and some butterfly inlays in addition to the epoxy. I only got one actual price quote, which was $1,500- that was just epoxy, but of course would include refinishing the table.

u/nickstandard · 1 pointr/woodworking
  1. First off, there is a ridiculous science behind this topic, so I would do research as much as possible before takeling this. I learned from the plethora of You Tube videos from well known woodworkers and trial and error.
  2. There are many ways to do it, and this is what I have been doing and it works for me.
  3. Your first question - That all depends on how much $$ you have. For example, I do not have a lot of $, but fortunately, my basement is dryer than most. I live on a slight hill that only gets water during a hurricane (Hurricane Sandy) and my power went out so the sump pump wasn’t working. I have a nice $100 LG dehumidifier down there. Only a quarter of my walls are moisture sealed with kilz ( I built my shop prior to KILZing the walls), so the relative humidity is at constant 40-45%, which according to the chart should give me a MC of about 7-10% which is absolutely perfect in my eyes. And that is proven with a MC meter.

    General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qASta5WqyE9xo

    But this is bad if I get my wood wet (maybe over 25% MC would be considered wet). So I f I get it wet, it stays in my garage until it dips below 20%. Ambient air humidity where i live is (NE USA outside PHILA) about 15%. Once it dips below 20%, I move it into my basement. None of my projects (as of now) will be stored or placed outside. If it was an outdoor project, I would imagine outside is where I would be storing/ working on my of the projects. But since I do indoor work, I move the wood into the basement to be stored at the right time. Then when the MC gets below 10% I generally will work with it, depending on the species and my time table, and whether or not the are paying me (hahaha). Obviously, if I brought it down to the basement to quickly, that’s when problems happen.... but to me, woodworking is more about learning. how to fix your mistakes. So if there was checking or warping, knowing how to fix it, or hide it is crucial. Sometimes hiding a mistake can make the workpiece even better. Bear in mind, that I do not have a big basement so I do not work with big pieces. Big pieces I would imagine are harder to maintain and harder to hide mistakes.

  4. In a perfect world, you would store the wood in the place the workpiece we placed for the rest of its life, but that could be years of storage and it impractical. The general rule of thumb is 1 year for every inch of thickness, but I have gotten them dryer, quicker than this rule and some experts will tell you that this rule is also fubar. If I was working with an expensive species, and do want to take any risks, then I would live by this rule in order to not make the slab go to waste. But I am not confident enough yet to handle that type of project without error, and I don’t have the $ to buy them yet. Generally speaking, once the species it at the proper MC (I would say 5%-8%, it ain’t moving, and you can work with it. I would assume most houses with air conditioning in the summer should be below 10% humidity.

  5. Then there comes a whole other science of finishing, which is an animal in itself, I am in the middle of self teaching. I wouldn’t be a good person to tell you about finishing yet, so don’t ask... but I know if finished correctly, there should be minimal moisture exchange as the right finish should create a wall between the wood and the atmosphere, which will not allow the exchange. I could tell you what I use to prevent this (finish wise) but I do not know what kind of species you are working with nor the RAH of where you are and the RAH of where the project will be. And even if I did, I wouldn’t be a great source.

    I have an ongoing set of playlists on my YouTube that has helped me, one is one wood drying. If I remember led to save the video to this playlist after I watched it, then the good information is stored there...

    Here is the link...

    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7Ur9yvX0sMRw1UhH9CYeIcyAhW8pVRHq

    Feel free to check out the rest of the playlists. I am still in an ongoing process of adding to them.

    BTW - you will never get the MC to 0% with standard drying techniques. As long as earth has an atmosphere and there are oceans, there will be MC in wood. this to me seems completely unnecessary and impractical, although I am sure someone will argue with that cause woodworking is very dynamic and full of opinions! Hope this helps!!
u/Trisa133 · 6 pointsr/DIY
  1. Buy a good stud finder, it can detect other stuff as well, and check for clearance. This is the best and easiest to use stud finder I have ever used. Here

  2. If you have the proper clearance, then cut the wall with a drywall hand saw.

  3. Use some 2x4 or whatever cheap wood you have available to nail the support beam. You can easily shoot a nail at an angle to connect it between 2 studs. Do the bottom support and top as well.

  4. Install the cabinet and secure it with screws. You really only need 4 screws. 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Or if you're flush the the studs on the side, you can screw it to the side. That's the easiest route.

  5. Now finish it with drywall joint compound to fill the gaps. Then caulk the gaps. Paint.

    Now if you don't have the clearance. Your only way to do it is is to build a frame around it so you hide the unfinished part. But personally, I'd just get another one that's in in-wall.
u/drucius · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

the buy it for life crowd will always argue for superior quality and buying a good tool. However another random redditor once summarized a different pragmatic:
"Buy a cheap tool, if it does the job you win. If you use it enough to break it you now are justified on buying the good version that might last you a lifetime."
I love harbor freight for economy cheap hand tools.

My exception is buy a good drill/driver. My current house might be close to 50% held together by work from my Milwaukee at this point.

Other tools no one mentioned that will come in handy: Outlet tester/live circuit detector, A stud finder, a set of allen wrenches.

u/niceflipflop · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

If you're willing to spend some money and you think you'll have more use for a good stud finder that actually works, get one of these.

I went through several finders in my 1940 brick colonial before finally trying the Franklin. I love that thing. It's not magic, but it finds so many studs that no others could. Just the way it lets you visualize the object it's detecting is immensely helpful in quickly determining whether you've got a false positive.

I can't promise you it'll help you sort out that wood paneling wall. But if any finder can detect the studs, it's the Franklin.

Good luck!

u/slugbutter · 1 pointr/DIY

Not really. I have a Zircon, not sure of the model number but I'll get it to you when I get home. It's definitely the best one I've ever used, but as far as things go that's like being the smartest kid with Downs Syndrome. It's also super cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-Pro-SL-Deep-Scanning/dp/B000KL7TG2/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416506428&sr=1-5&keywords=zircon+stud+finder There's a pricier brand out there called Franklin that some people rave about but they're worthless for plaster.

u/eliberman22 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Thanks for the reply! Using a studpop to locate studs.

So I can't screw anchors into that metal drywall corner correct?

And you're saying I can use toggle bolts wherever on the wall even if there isn't a stud? That's awesome. The shades are a bit heavy but I'm not going to be putting my weight on them. So if I can just put those anchors in anywhere I'd be pretty satisfied with that as a solution. Also as a sidenote, I also ordered this. There's nothing in here that can freely support the curtains and curtain rod right?

u/skwolf522 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

If you are driving alot of screws get a good driver with Torx or square bits. Phillips or flat head screws should be outlawed.

I have tons of 18 volt tools. But 90% of the time I use my 12 volt stuff. It is lighter and plenty strong enough for most all jobs I throw at it.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tools-2598-22-Hammer/dp/B077ZXR2GN/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=milwaukee+m12+fuel&qid=1563798041&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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Get a good tool bag, To keep all your tools organized.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DG5543-Inch-Tradesmans-Tool/dp/B001P30BO6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dewalt+tool+bag&qid=1563036747&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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This little screwdriver is my most used electrical tool.

It will take off a faceplate in seconds without scratching it.

https://www.amazon.com/Interchangeable-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-67100/dp/B003FC75YE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=klien+screwdriver+fast&qid=1563037724&s=gateway&sr=8-7

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This works great also.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-9-IN-1-RATCHET-BIT-DRIVR/dp/B07N2XRJKN/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3S4QWUWTNOHH0&keywords=milwaukee+ratchet+screwdriver&qid=1563797885&s=gateway&sprefix=milwauke+ratchet+%2Caps%2C216&sr=8-5

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These work great as stud finders, not sure how they build your houses but in america we have 2x4 wooden studs behind our walls every 16-24". This is a strong magnet that finds the studs by finding the screws that attach the drywall to the wooden studs.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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If you are moving any water lines or doing any plumbing look in to Pex, It is very easy to do and you can same alot of plumbing costs.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-Crimper-Stainless-Clamps/dp/B019DPYQZM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=LGQIZBR2PEXY&keywords=pex+crimping+tool&qid=1563798123&s=gateway&sprefix=pex+crimp%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-4

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If you are moving your toilet, look in to a wall mount. They are very modern and save you a lot of room.

u/DadmiralAckbar · 1 pointr/DIY

Do yourself a solid and buy a stud finder. The magnet kind is too cheap not to. This one at Amazon is $7 and is great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479919614&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=magnetic+stud+finder

Also, it's smart to double check what your finder tells you before actually trying to screw anything. I usually use a finish nail to probe the spot and be sure that there is actually a stud where I think there is. You never know what craziness is going on behind drywall and if you were wrong, it's super easy to repair a finish nail hole.

Good luck!

u/TheBruceDickenson · 5 pointsr/OffGrid

If you don't have the wood yet you might be in a pinch. I burn wood to heat our house all winter, but definitely not anywhere near -30c. How much wood depends on the type of wood. Each species has a different BTU rating. Some burn hot and fast others are low and slow. I tend to use both. I like Poplar to get the stove warm and Oak to bank it all night.

​

I cut my own wood but if you don't you will need to be careful of sellers saying it is seasoned. A true seasoned piece of wood will be cut and split (generally) for a year. Some sellers will cut and split in the late spring/early summer and try to sell it in the winter. That won't cut it for most guys burning wood. I highly suggest investing into an inexpensive moisture meter. Split a piece of any wood that you are buying and test it. I try to burn at 20% or less.



Also, it might be really helpful for you to get a wall mounted propane heater. They are inexpensive (under $150 at the local big box store or on Amazon). Keep it on a thermostat to kick on if the wood fire goes out. Really helpful on punishing days. If you get the smaller 100 lb tanks you can take them to the filling station and have them filled cheaper than delivery.


Oh and get a carbon monoxide detector. If need to make sure you have enough fresh air in your house to support your wood burning stove and your ability to breathe!


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Wood Heat Value Comparison Chart

u/Quagga_1 · 47 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Start small, do your homework, think the project through and then just do it! You will definitely make some mistakes, but see it as the price of learning to DIY. Just try and avoid potentially dangerous situations...

  • Get a "stud finder" (something like this) to help you avoid drill holes in electrical conduits, water- or gas pipes.
  • Use safety glasses and hearing protection whenever using power tools (or even striking tools like hammers and chisels).
  • Wear a mask when creating dust and be weary of breathing in airborne particles. Some types (i.e. asbestos or even mold) can cause severe health issues.
  • Whenever using a new tool, substance or material, be sure to read (and follow!) the instructions. Especially regarding ventilation, fire, etc.
  • Stop working when you are tired, or mistakes will be made.
  • Measure twice. Always.
  • When in doubt, ask.
  • Don't be too hard on yourself. If it looks good from a few feet away, it is good enough.
  • It is good to have someone else around when you are working. Just in case things go horribly wrong.
  • Be careful when using ladders, etc. Make sure you are steady. Doubly so when using power tools. NEVER stretch or reach when using power tools. And for the love of God, make sure you work piece is properly secured before applying any tool.
  • Use your common sense and good luck!
u/Mortimer452 · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get a couple of carpet fans and bring those down with you, these will aid immensely in getting the place dried out. I'm sure they're hard to find in the Harvey-hit areas right now. Check local Craigslist, also rental places will often sell their old ones for $100 or so. One carpet fan can do the work of 20 regular house fans.

As you probably already know, carpet, wiring, drywall, insulation, cabinetry, baseboards that got wet, these gotta go. Studs and other framing members will generally be fine once they dry out, but you have to make sure they're good and dry. You can get a pretty cheap moisture meter on Amazon to help determine when the wood is dry.

u/Lunulae · 1 pointr/DIY

YMMV but I have one of these, and while it definitely will magnetize itself to a screw you have to have faith that the people who put up your drywall got all the screws nicely into the middle of the stud. The people who built my house definitely didnt. The studs arent all perfectly 16 inches on centre either. After using this while mounting a large tv and putting a bunch of unnecessary holes in our walls to find the studs we bought a sensor one it made sense for us to pay the extra for peace of mind because we were renovating and hanging a bunch of heavy things though

u/HomesteaderWannabe · 1 pointr/myweatherstation

Hey thanks for the quick response! Okay, so here's what I'm looking at ordering. If you could comment that it has all the right components for what you have set up, or if I'm missing anything, or if anything is unnecessary, I'd really appreciate the input!

Here's my shopping cart:

u/zerostyle · 2 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

As little as possible. The more crap you have, the more it weighs you down.
That said, every home needs some necessities to get by. For me those generally involve cooking, sleeping, and repairs. I just finished watching Parks & Rec and am in a bit of a Ron Swanson mood.

For the kitchen (all recommended by America's Test Kitchen):

Victorinox 8" Chef's Knife

Victorinox Paring knife

CDN Instant Read Thermometer

Lodge 12" skillet - cheap and will last you forever

Crockpot, 6qt - the one kitchen appliance I'd cheat with. Easy delicious meals. Toss in a cheap cut of meat (chuck roast, etc), salt, pepper, garlic, onions, carrots, whatever. Let it sit for 6-8 hours. Dinner for 3 meals.

Tools:

I'd probably just pick up a cheap set of craftsman stuff (screwdrivers, hammer, sockets, pliers). Splurge on the ratchet and any power tools you need:

Bahco 3/8" ratchet - same as snapon F80 at 1/2 the price

Other misc. tools that are quite handy:

Magnetic stud finder - in a new place you're going to be hanging pictures, installing shelving, and mounting curtain rods. These are dirt cheap and super convenient.

Multimeter - Flukes will last you for life. If you need to do any electrical work, these are great. If you don't want to splurge up front just borrow them or buy a cheap $15 one at home depot.

Bedroom:

Get comfortable pillows and nice sheets. Don't get all caught up in the 1000 thread count crap, it's a hoax. Just get at least 400tc or so, and preferably egyptian or pima cotton. My favorite sheets are actually a super cheapo brand that are 60% cotton 40% polyester. I prefer them because they feel more "smooth and cool" rather than "soft and warm".

Obviously get real furniture: dresser, bed with headboard, etc.

Electronics

I won't go into too much detail here, but consider cutting the cord (/r/cordcutters).

A cheap Roku3 + netflix + an OTA antenna can go a long way.

If you have a lot of pictures/media/etc, don't forget about backups. I'd look into an inexpensive NAS, or at least a USB harddrive. They are dirt cheap and worth the insurance.

Insurance

Lastly, don't forget renters or homeowners insurance. If you are renting, you can get rather good coverage for quite cheap. I just paid around $50 for 12 months of coverage on my apartment ($15k coverage, $1k deductible). I shopped around at 5 different places and Amica came out the cheapest by FAR.

Other than that, you don't need much. Buy less crap. Don't buy some $50 automatic electronic wine opener when a $1 wine key will do the job. Same for a can opener.

u/crash180 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I have tried tons of different stud finders and magnets. The magnets do work, but I found a stud finder that works from Amazon and is the best money I have ever spent in my new house and there is a coupon to save 10% right now on it:

Stud Finder Wall Scanner - 4 in 1 Electronic Stud Sensor Wall Detector Wood Beam Finders Center Finding with Battery and LCD Display for Wood AC Wire Metal Studs Detection (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HF92JMR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GrGSCbEEEP281

u/cbsteven · 1 pointr/homeowners

Thanks for the diagram, that's interesting.

This studfinder uses super strong magnets to detect the screws/nails, and actually sticks to them through the drywall. It's this thing. Seems to work great.. and that's the only spot it picks up any metal.

u/Rick91981 · 2 pointsr/homeowners

The chances are very very small, but if you'd like peace of mind, get a stud finder that detects ac voltage. Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HTFHOEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KUbSBbA5Y5XNR

u/free_sex_advice · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

The two things that jump out are the downspout on the right and the windows. It's a bit difficult to tell how the roof goes there, but it looks pretty tricky and then that downspout appears to dump water right on the tricky spot - all of the downspouts need short extensions to get the water away from the corners.

Also, where the end of the gutter is right up against the side of the house. Is the gutter cap well sealed? Does the siding run behind it or did they gutter first then cut the siding around the gutter?

The windows look nice with the wide flat white area around them, but what material is that? How is it flashed to the top of the lower window, how is the upper window flashed to it? It's really difficult to build out a detail like that and make it waterproof.

You'll know more if you can figure out how high up the leak is - yes, the water can very easily move down through the wall. A moisture meter is inexpensive. Read the sheetrock inside just above the baseboard where the water is worst. Read the wall up the side of the window trim on both windows. You may get a clue from that.

It's a bit more money, but you can get Flir 1 for your cell phone - iPhone linked, but there's an Android one too. Take a look at the walls from inside and the ceiling and the side walls of that section. The moisture alone should make for cold spots, but it might be especially obvious on a cold, rainy day. Good general contractors have both moisture meters and Flir 1. Any friend that's a fireman probably has access to a Flir camera. A good home inspector has these tools. I'd offer to help, but I can tell from the architecture that you live nowhere near me.

Please update us later.

u/Cant_Spel · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Be sure to check You Tube for proper use. Just like a hand plane, card scrapers can be improperly used resulting in folks dismissing their ability. I flex mine slightly like a "U" shape and pull it towards me (paying attention to the grain so as to not dig it in).
Roamins note on quality of wood below is a good one. Soft wet pine will be difficult no matter what. You might consider purchasing some wood and letting it sit stickered (with spacers) for a while to help air it out. If you want to be completely anal about it you can test moisture content with a moisture meter which measures electrical current between 2 points through wood. http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Digital-Moisture/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321899651&sr=8-1 You’re looking for the wood to stabilize to your environment. Home Depot likely buys bulk from else ware and ships to your area meaning the wood will not only be green (recently cut) but will also be incredibly out of whack with your local humidity. This is why you see crazy warped boards at most big box stores.
Down the road you can look into buying from places with kiln dried and/or stabilized wood. I have the luck of living near a word supplier that ships all over while maintaining a store front for walk ins. Their stuff is great. http://www.woodworkerssource.com/ I suspect most larger cities have similar places (woodcraft being a large multi state business).

u/physicallyuncomfort · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I purchased this guy .. but it wasn’t of much use to me.
I’m so terrified of not cutting in between the two studs and having a huge chunk missing. Do you have any specific videos to recommend?

Thank you so much for your help!

u/IMGONNAKILLRAYROMANO · 2 pointsr/DIY

I recently bought a magnetic stud finder that runs purely on a pair of magnets rather than battery. I run it in an 'S' shape across my wall and it sticks to certain areas.

Now here's the problem: What do I even do with that information? I want to hang some heavier things up (say, a mirror or something) and as far as I know you're supposed to hammer into the stud but like... if the stud finder is attaching to the metal in the frame then won't me hammering a nail into it endanger the frame? Wouldn't I be clanking right into the metal already in there? What if the thing I'm hanging needs to be attached to more than one stud and they're not close enough?

Should I mark an inch below / above / next to the spot that the stud finder attached to? How am I supposed to know that that's still part of the frame?

Ftr, this is the stud finder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/

I'm sure this is all supposed to be very obvious... google seems to think so since I can't find any real resources aside from 'stud finders help you find studs'.

Thank you!

u/thetonyk123 · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

I'm assuming you have drywall with wood studs. All you really need is the wall mount, a drill, and a stud finder. A pencil would be useful aswell for marking stuff out.

You'll need to locate your wall studs. You can do this using a basic stud finder. Use the stud finder to locate and mark a stud close to where you want the screen to be. You might not get it exactly where you want it because studs are only placed every so often, 16" on center is common. Then after your sure a stud is there (I always knock on the wall and listen to double check) you can start to mount it. You'll need to buy the actual mount. I use this basic wall mount for one of my screens and it is quite adjustable. Align the wall mount along the stud to where you want it then drill pilot holes for the screws. After you drill the pilot holes just screw the mount in. Try pulling on it a bit just to make sure its stable and secured into the stud. Then (if you bought the mount I linked) you just screw the plate into the back of your monitor and slide it in. If all goes well it should be mounted solidly to the wall.

u/-chrispy- · 2 pointsr/pics

+2 on this... These are great and the HDMI cable is nice... I also recommend the Magnet Stud Finder... I have one of these and love it... It sticks to the drywall screws used to hang drywall to the studs and hasn't failed me yet...

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408654238&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+stud+finder

u/grantd86 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

From the pic it's hard to tell what those walls are made out of but I still wouldn't chance just putting it anywhere and hoping for the best. Suspect that it's not the answer you want to hear but the right answer is to buy a decent studfinder. Seems like a lot for just this project but if you own a house you will use it again in the future.

The low tech route is to tap your knuckle against the wall and listen for the solid spots.

u/Artfulvandelay · 8 pointsr/Carpentry

Love my Franklin.

https://www.amazon.ca/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=stud+finder&qid=1558914670&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Two downsides: battery cover could be redesigned as it can come loos pretty easily, does not indicate live power.

u/Hhwwhat · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

For the future, grab one of these stud finders. Run it along the wall and it will hang on the screw heads that were used to secure the drywall. Also works great in lathe and plaster houses. It's really just a strong magnet.

u/quintios · 3 pointsr/DIY

OMGOMGOMGOMGOMG. Best $10 I ever spent. I love this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

u/Fenwick23 · 3 pointsr/DIY

I was a telecom installer/electrician for many years, and none of that "we'll just run the phone wire under the carpet/staple along the baseboard" nonsense. My boss was insistent about putting wire inside walls. Over the years we'd tried just about every stud finder available. The classic Zircon is about as good as they get... but that's not saying much. They work fine with drywall of uniform thickness, but if you're looking at older mortar/plaster on lathe or button-board walls, forget it. Believe it or not, the stud finder we used most often was a 10 inch piece of stainless steel spring/piano wire, .030" diameter I think, though maybe larger. Basically the smallest we could securely grip with the cordless drill chuck. Clip and file the end into a roughly symmetrical spear point, and run it into the wall where you intend to install a box or MPLS ring, or where you intend to anchor something to a stud. Most studs are 16" on center, so you can guesstimate a likely starting point by measuring from the corner of the room. We used that plus the Zircon to choose our starting point. If you're installing wire and hit a void, you start sawing a hole for your box/MPLS. If you hit wood and want to anchor, drill again 1/2" in either direction to find the stud center and anchor. Now, if you hit a stud and want empty wall, or hit empty wall and want a stud, start drilling more holes horizontally, about every 3/4" until you find what you want. The advantage of drilling with thin piano wire is that it's trivially easy to fill the tiny holes.

u/Rob_Gronmeowski · 2 pointsr/powerwashingporn

I have a Zircon I picked up on Amazon for pretty cheap. Nothing fancy, but has worked pretty well so far.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW

u/YosemiteThrowaway123 · 6 pointsr/battlestations

Ya I love this guy and this stud finder. Made an amazing doggy door through my wall to the side of the house for a dog potty area, only took a couple days with the right tools.

u/jdsmn21 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I just put this one up last weekend for my 55". I don't know if you desire articulating though, but IMHO, it folds flat enough that the articulating is just a bonus. Everything was in the kit for hardware. I know you said 60", but if it meets for weight, I'd go ahead.

https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Dream-MD2413-MX-Articulating-400x400mm/dp/B00KXTZ3BE/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478532173&sr=1-13&keywords=articulating+wall+mount


You might want to stop at the hardware store first and pick up a magnetic stud finder before ordering a mount - they are like $5-10, and handy to have if you ever want to hang anything else (shelf, large picture).
https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479314795&sr=1-1&keywords=magnetic+stud+finder

u/KingOfId · 6 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You can get a little magnetic stud finder on amazon for like $10. Definitely worth it, you’ll use it a million times for hanging artwork and shelves. Like someone else said, use it to locate drywall nails and get an idea of where the joist runs, then screw a hook into the joist. You can also knock along the drywall and listen for when the sound is more solid—less hollow—to get an idea. Any reasonably sized hook with a screw end should be fine for a plant.

Edit: this is the stud finder : stud finder

u/coletain · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Hit any particularly high spots of glue with a belt sander. No need for the cement if you are doing a wood floor as long as the subfloor is reasonably level. Use whatever underlayment system your flooring calls for, but its usually a felt paper or silicone vapor shield. The underlayment will take care of any minor imperfections in the floor.

Before you put down the flooring, buy a moisture meter and check the subfloor is dried out. The cheap ones are fine for this, you aren't really looking for a specific % you just want to measure every day or so and when the % stops going down you are good.

u/inapproprievan · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPB30U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

soil pH tester/moisture meter.

it may not be digital but it's better than those fucking strips haha

u/mrtramplefoot · 2 pointsr/DIY

I really like this finder, it's cheap, easy to use, and accurate. Just make sure you use a fresh 9v Zircon StudSensor Pro SL Edge Finder Deep-Scanning Stud Finder with SpotLite Pointing System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KL7TG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KwDjDbCSJY23J

u/SteveAndTheCrigBoys · 1 pointr/Wellthatsucks

My studfinder is shit. My old boss had a seriously nice one for about $60 that had ~12 LED's that would light up in succession around a stud (mine was $15 and had a wildly inaccurate single LED).

Still, find an outlet, measure 16" from one side and start knocking. Then punch a bunch of skinny nails through in 1/4" increments wherever it feels solid. If you're gonna mount a TV in your apartment, a few tiny nailholes (especially in a row that are super easy to spackle over) aren't gonna ruin your deposit. Then pull 16" from that nailhole and there should be another stud. I've hung 6 tv's in the last 5 years, it's not rocket science.

Edit: it's actually only $50 on Amazon ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bRYxzbDXXJHSW

u/borisf · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I have some experience with this.

  1. Get a good stud finder. Most won’t work with lathe and plaster. This one does for my house. Your mileage may vary so buy from somewhere with an easy return policy:
    https://www.amazon.com/Franklin-Sensors-FS710PROProSensor-Professional-Finder/dp/B0195K8OT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519272814&sr=8-4&keywords=ProSensor%2B710&th=1

    (Sometimes available at Costco)

  2. Get a mounting bracket than will span between two studs.

  3. Buy good lag screws (not too thick as your tv isn’t that heavy) vs. the typically crappy ones that come with the bracket. Something that looks like this (not necessarily these exactly):
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074ZMZMT9/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b16qtJ_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=J14PERT8ZSKA9GRZVC1H&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=c0cdc314-6aee-50c9-b0bb-83f1e9593841&pf_rd_i=1640962

  4. Mark where the bolts will go on the wall and predrill.

  5. Mount the bracket using the screws but don’t overtighten as that will crack the plaster.

    Good luck.
u/McFeely_Smackup · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I've gone through at least a dozen stud finders over the years, from cheap to expensive, and the one I've liked best is the Franklin 710

Magnetic stud finders are slightly better than guessing. they don't find studs, they find screws/nails that should be in the stud...but you don't know if it's centered, barely in one side or the other, or missed the stud completely.

u/CollateralFortune · 1 pointr/homelab

I actually got the 5n1 one with the console and "official" internet receiver, but if I were going to do it again on the relative cheap, this is what I would do.

u/Gqueue · 0 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I use a Franklin
https://www.amazon.ca/Franklin-Sensors-ProSensor-710-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG

Which is very similar. Best and easiest stud finder I've ever used.

Only problem is that it is always going off whenever I walk by. :). Lol.

u/ArdvarkMaster · 1 pointr/woodworking

Wall stud detectors, at least the one I have, are Neodymium magnets in plastic frame. Great at finding nails in the wall and since I already have this one, no need to purchase one. Very useful.

u/Inshpincter_Gadget · 8 pointsr/electricians

Use a powerful magnet to locate the nails in the wall. When you find a vertical row of nails that is where the stud is.

This one is awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=magnet+stud+finder&qid=1554615529&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/izjustsayin · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

OMG she is sooooo cute! This pinterest may have some cool ideas for you. I think you could get away with putting shelves up, even in a rental. You'd just need to make sure you have one of these to find the studs!

u/DesolationRobot · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

> better luck with a magnet to find studs

This little guy is my go-to stud finder. The only electronic studfinder I've used that wasn't garbage was a $90 model. It was still only ok.

u/higguns23 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Honestly I've tried a bunch of different stud finders with bad results like you indicated. I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY a few years back and have never missed a stud for anchoring or cutting in new electrical boxes.
The magnet method works good as well. My pops used to use it with a little device like this one https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Stanley-47-400-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B002YCSIJC

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 5 pointsr/homedefense
u/chrisbrl88 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

TWP is my preferred brand, I like using a pad applicator and a good natural bristle brush for back brushing, and you stain when the wood is at 12% moisture content (moisture meters are cheap).

u/ultimansion · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I'll second this - I have this one,which works really well and has definitely saved me some time and headache.

u/brettzie · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I've had studfinders like yours and had the the same issues. I recently bought this one and it works really well. Also lights up multiple lines, which makes it easy to find the center.

ProSensor T6 Professional Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LF2BRY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/g1bs0nsg · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Rare earth magnets work great, they latch on to nails/screws. Find one, then slide it up to find another above, and down to find another below, and you can be sure you're on a stud.

I have one of these, and it's never led me astray:

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1416347164&sr=1-1&keywords=stud+finder

u/iamajs · 1 pointr/homeowners

> Get these magnetic stud finders, rather than wasting money on an electronic stud finder. I own like 4 electronic stud finders, and none of them work as well as these.

This electronic stud finder is quite possibly the best one I've ever used: https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496427688&sr=1-8&keywords=stud+finder

u/MrHookup · 2 pointsr/pics

Thanks for this! Never thought there was a better way to find the studs.

Said in the pigs voice on Toy Story 2 "50 bucks ain't bad!"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0064EICKG?vs=1

u/ihitrecord · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

In the basement? Something like this.

In the wood? This.

If your basement is constantly humid, plumb in a dehumidifier. However, in doing that, you may want to wait for it to stabilize and then re-acclimate the wood.

Yeah, sorry, no good news from me.

u/LBJsPNS · 2 pointsr/DIY

That's a cute toy.

If you want to find the center of the stud every time, however, you want one of these. Worth its weight in fine uncut Peruvian cocaine.

u/YAMMYRD · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Honestly a really good magnet, finds the nails that attach the lathe. I think I have this one

u/phuhcue · 0 pointsr/gardening

Go to your local nursery and buy one of those cheap meters.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MGMP1-Active-2-Way-Moisture/dp/B002JPB30U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342875030&sr=8-2&keywords=ph+moisture+meter

Something like this one. It's not a bad idea to know the ph of the soil too. The general rule of thumb is jamming your finger a few inches into the soil to feel if is moist or dry. If its dry you water. I would rather have a better indication than that so I bought one of these meters. Takes the guess work out of it.

u/sunamonster · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I use one of these for marking studs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_acpCzbE82Y34Q

Another comment said fiberglass fishing sticks, I use those extensively (cable installer) as well as using fish tape when you need something more flexible

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_vepCzbK7AKCQF

Drilling up from the bottom is probably best, just take your time to scout out power lines and studs so you don't hit anything unexpected. Something I do whenever I cut in new outlets is cut the drywall first and stick a light in the hole, drill (everything is attics in SW Florida) and see if I can see the light. It's better to drill a couple times than cut extra holes in the drywall.

u/bilged · 0 pointsr/DIY

This is what I use and it would definitely be strong enough to get through 2" of drywall.

u/LeftistRedneck · 13 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get a new stud detector. Even if you spend $50, I guarantee you it will pay off in saving your sanity by getting one like this or even better that senses any electrical or plumbing behind the wall: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8XSYBbQTVG65E

u/ehmatthes · 2 pointsr/firewood

I've had good luck with this $20 meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008V6I840/

u/bill_bull · 2 pointsr/Tools

Do you guys really not use Franklin 710's? They are awesome, you can even put it right over a stud, turn it on and it won't freak out. It uses multiple sensors instead of one, so it compares the relative density readings of the different sensors in one place, instead of finding a stud based on relative density from one sensor changing with movement. Plus it shows both edges of the stud at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG?keywords=stud+finder&qid=1540825376&sr=8-9&ref=sr_1_9

If you don't use that, go with magnets. Nothing else it worth the money.

u/mr-peabody · 2 pointsr/DIY

I got this thing. Works like a champ.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/pics

This stud finder works AMAZING and they have it at Costco for $35

http://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/

u/fun_director · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Best one that I know of... I use it all the time, very accurate!

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GR7aAbYG0R3YB

u/BoxDropCroissant · 6 pointsr/BabyBumps

the best stud finder ever


  • this is NOT a risky click 😉
u/Schneiderman · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427123016&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+stud+finder

I like it a lot better than most electronic versions. Also, you could just buy the magnets and make one yourself.

u/antarcticgecko · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Magnet stud finders will never steer you wrong. Excellent little gizmo.

u/xtothel · 2 pointsr/homeowners

Try to get something like this
ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KFUgzbKCDT8VR

Saved me a lot of time.

u/IcyKettle · 7 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Yeah, mostly likely just inaccurate readings.

I'm guessing you're using a standard stick-style stud finder.

Ditch it and get a Franklin. They're far more accurate (especially in older homes with thick plaster/gypsum) and intuitive to use.

Cheers.

u/gsfgf · 11 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

I have this one and it works pretty well.

u/WhisperToARiot · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Came here to say this, this was my best purchase all summer 👍 CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/theuautumnwind · 1 pointr/Skookum

I love my magnetic one.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3sVmzbJCQXF08

u/theoriginalmack · 1 pointr/guitars

Best 25 bucks I've spent as a home owner. stud finder

u/scottklarr · 2 pointsr/DIY

I would recommend using a magnetic stud finder. They allow you to find where the drywall screws are. Once you find a screw with it, move it vertically to find at least 2 other screws to verify it's just not a stray screw. This is the one I use regularly.

Then you can mount directly into the stud.

You could also use toggler snaptoggle anchors if the studs don't line up quite where you want the mounts to be. I use these very often for monitor mounting. The drywall is plenty strong enough. These do require a 1/2" hole to be drilled, however. So keep that in mind if you will be having to patch them later.

u/genmud · 1 pointr/DIY

Tap on the wall with your knuckle and listen for the difference in sound, good stud finders can be had for fairly cheap as well.


ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aw4Dyb0DQVVAB

u/DylanCO · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Oh ya definitely mildew. And it a lot less than I thought it would be. It'll most likely come off with just a good scrubbing. I highly doubt you have any other moisture problems. But if you want to be extra sure we use a much more expensive version of this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008V6I840/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l0KIzbSB2HS4T

Is the bathroom on the top floor of the house?

Is there an exhaust fan in the bathroom? If so and it's a older one that's not quite up to snuff anymore I would suggest replacing it or at least cleaning it out.

u/SathedIT · 2 pointsr/lifehacks

There are such things as magnetic stud finders. They are amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3d25xbSTG6N7P

u/bartharris · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have been using this one for years, with great success. It stows inside my drill case like a James Bond gadget (From Russia With Love). I have never used an electronic stud finder. The only problem I have had with this one is when I find metal studs, but I have since learned how to deal with them.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

u/goodcheapandfast · 2 pointsr/blackfriday

Thanks for the heads up. This is arguably a better product (it has a level built-in) at a cheaper price: https://smile.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/

StudBuddy is USA-made, however. This comes from China.

u/rerational · 4 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

I used to rent a 95 year old home with plaster and lath. The studpop was a godsend.

Studpop Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRI5TMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FJ3xzbJ5WAY5Q

u/mcracer · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

You can use these with a RTL-SDR setup. It's well supported in linux.

u/rprebel · 5 pointsr/lifehacks

Electronic stud finders are cheap, and they're not limited to detecting nails/screws. They tell you exactly where the stud begins and where it ends.

This is the exact model I have, and I've had it for almost 20 years. If you're about to move, get one. If you like home improvement projects, get one. If you like blinking toys, get one.

edit: holy shit this one is awesome, if a bit pricey.

u/Jharrigan07 · 0 pointsr/DIY

Buy a https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498578785&sr=8-1&keywords=franklin+prosensor+710

The stud finder you are using detects the change in density, which can be the edge of a stud or various other things. If you have textured walls, just moving it over the surface can give you a false positive. The prosensor checks across the entire width and gives you a visual indication of the where the stud is. There is apparently one at Cosco (Kirkland branded) that runs about $35.

The thing is life changing, particularly if you are moving to a new place.

u/Natural_Law · 1 pointr/DIY

The weird part is that it definitely sticks (the magnetic stud finder) to the corners. Both concave corners (ie-the regular corners of a 4 sided room) and the convex corners (ie- like a hallway corner)....don't know if convex and concave are the proper terms.

So, it can find SOME nails through whatever material is on there. Just not ANYWHERE on the wall itself.

u/Certain_Concept · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You may want to buy a mousture sensor.

General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mOEvCbX3KNQNX

I have the same ceiling/texture. I have a big water spot from a fixed roof leak. While it was leaking it didnt necessarily feel moist but the meter was a good way to check.

u/whfournier · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I have one of these and it works very well, Costco sells the same thing in blue for about $40. Not the cheapest thing out there but I'm happy with it. Just keep in mind if you have thick plaster or double drywall and stud finder is probably going to have trouble.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496872543&sr=1-7&keywords=stud+finder

u/distantreplay · 14 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Most of the time I use the CH Hanson mentioned by u/mikeperr or a rare earth magnet on a string and swing it like a pendulum.
If you are really into it and insist on determining the precise edge of every piece of framing (and fire blocking) the one gizmo I know works most of the time is the Franklin 710. I just never had any consistent luck with those zircon things.

u/ak99615 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I have this moisture meter. It's done well measuring some lumber that is quite wet (~22%), but this is the first time I've bought lumber from an actual lumber mill that kiln dries their wood. The guy at the mill says they dry to 7%. I can't get a reading above 1% at any spot in the wood and at any depth.

To add, the boards milled well through the jointer and the planer with no tear out. However, the resulting sawdust was quite fine and the planer chips were a little brittle.

u/_sch · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

For just finding studs, I find these to be better than any of the fancy ones: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

u/INTPx · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG

10x better than any stud finder out there. You can get a blue rebadge at Costco for a lot cheaper

u/scottawhit · 3 pointsr/Tools

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_atL1BbHQFE6PJ

Best ever. Doesn’t do electrical, or much else, but it works! It’ll just stick to a nail once it finds one.

u/99e99 · 3 pointsr/DIY

i wouldn't worry about drywall coming off the studs.. not even sure how this would happen.

game plan is sound. go for it. the only possible issue (and it's minor) is you could screw into an existing drywall screw, but the odds of this are almost 0. worst case is you screw 1/2" away.

but if you want to be absolutely sure, amazon sells these "stud-finders" that are just rare-earth magnets with a small level bubble. it finds studs by locating the drywall screws... nice little tool.

u/HvyMtlChaos · 3 pointsr/woodstoving

I had not tested it since I don't have a moisture meter (thought they were more than they actually are, thank you for the tip!). I'm going to buy this one and I guess I'll find out in 2 days what its condition is:

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-Digital/dp/B00275F5O2

u/Raib314 · 1 pointr/AskReddit

This is the correct answer. You need a stud finder, to find out where the wooden beams that support your wall are. Once you know where they run, that's where you put your nails/screws. Load bearing.

u/MSD0 · 4 pointsr/Tools

The Franklin is supposed to be good. I just use neodymium magnets myself. The last Bosch stud finder I used worked really well at detecting metal in the wall, but not wood.

u/unknown_name · 2 pointsr/interestingasfuck

This is by far the best one I've ever owned. Why, you ask? It's magnetic. None of that beeping crap that doesn't work half the time. This one is what you need.

u/odd84 · 6 pointsr/pics

The top selling stud finder on Amazon is just a magnet in a plastic holder.

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=zg_bs_553280_1

u/BeanedWeen · 1 pointr/DIY

It looks like it.

I have one of these, it has been a life saver in a house with plaster and lath.

u/blankey2 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

something like this:

moisture detector

u/CivilDiscussions · 19 pointsr/DIY

That isn't true at all. I can get away with a simple magnet and just use it to find a sheetrock screw.

Look at this stud finder on amazon -
CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mPogzb17D3WA9

4.5 out of 5 stars with over 7,000 reviews and only costs $9.99. Thing doesn't even require batteries.

I would tell people the exact opposite of what you said. Don't waste $30-40 on a stud finder when a $9 one will work just as well.

u/Mod74 · 2 pointsr/gadgets

If we're going down the semi-DIY route, one of these can make life so much simpler when fixing things to walls and ceilings.

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405644578&sr=8-3&keywords=stud+detector

And also help you avoid hitting wires or pipes. Worth every penny imo.

u/JRockPSU · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I have this magnetic stud finder that works really well.

Edit: It was available for purchase when I first made my post and now it says it's unavailable.

u/shadowthunder · 1 pointr/DIY

Patience, padawan; I'm on my flight back as I type this!

You're going to want a second pair of hands regardless to hold stuff in place while you drill and tighten. I'm not sure what they mean by "two drywalls"; it sounds as though they layered it, but to my totally unprofessional self, that sounds silly.

16" apart ("on center" is the terminology used in construction) is standard for non-load-bearing studs, but you really can't trust it. Mine ended up ranging from 14" to 28" apart. Get a studfinder and mark them out; this one is super cheap, and works very well for metal studs.

Could you link me to or post an image of your mounting bracket? The primary reason I used plywood is that the bracket I got stupidly wasn't wide-enough to span even two studs. If you can hit at least two with yours, I'd say it's safe to forgo the plywood. That's true that the plywood is only visible from the side; unfortunately, my TV location causes that to be exposed (thanks, picky roommate >_>). If that's not a concern, I see no reason not to go ham and use the plywood.

The only potential issue with using 12 toggle bolts is that you'll have twice as many holes in the drywall to patch up when you eventually move out, but that's negligible.

I'm going to non-definitively say that there's no way your studs are 1" wide. That'd break compatibility with anything intended to use the standard size for wooden studs. But hey - finding the middle of a stud is what the studfinder's for!

u/mikeperr · 20 pointsr/HomeImprovement

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aMyRAbZN3XD11

It's a magnet. Foolproof. Which I need because I've never had much luck with the electronic ones.

u/RugerRedhawk · 3 pointsr/Parenting

Youtube will have plenty of examples. Make sure you find a stud to secure it to. This is my go to studfinder these days if you don't already have one: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406045775&sr=8-1&keywords=stud+finder

I just screwed one of these eye hooks to the bottom side of one of the upper shelves, then ran a lag bolt through the eye and into the stud behind the bookshelf. I did this in a couple spots, it will depend on how wide your bookshelf is as to how many you might decide to do. This is a particularly large bookshelf in my case and it goes all the way up to the ceiling. A good long wood screw would likely suffice in most cases. Also my bookshelf has an open back, you may need to do something slightly different if yours has an enclosed back on it, but you get the general gist of it.

u/Aperture_Engineering · 4 pointsr/AskEngineers

You can use a (fairly strong neodymium) magnet to find the sheetrock screws they use to, well, hold up the sheetrock. If you find a couple of magnetic spots in a line, odds are a beam is there. They even make magnets encased in plastic for this exact purpose.

Disclaimer: I don't really know anything about the strapping /u/jerkfacebeaversucks was talking about, so the magnet may be fooled by that too.

u/bobby-t1 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I'm trying this one which I found recommended in another thread:

Zircon m40-FFP Handheld Electronic Metal Detector for Use on Dry Wall, Concrete, Plaster, Stucco and More with Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3oFPybX6HA6ZJ

u/InterloperKO · 11 pointsr/DIYfail

I prefer this

I've had 100 dollar stud finders that couldn't do what this magnet does. They aren't terribly accurate and require batteries.

u/Diligenthunter · 1 pointr/DIY

Franklin sensors are my personal preference.

Just hold the button and slide across the wall.
No other stud finder works as reliably or are as easy to use.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504561130&sr=1-8&keywords=stud+finder

u/pyrotek1 · 2 pointsr/woodstoving

firewood moisture meter this a tool or instrument to give you the information you need. We moved in to a new to us house and the fire wood we get has a higher moisture content than I want. We made a wood dryer for the first fuel of the day. Wood dryer detail

You are doing nothing wrong. You simply need more information on what works and what moisture content burns well. A high moisture fuel will sit and not burn until the water has been baked off then start releasing heat.

u/hops_on_hops · 1 pointr/DIY

This https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6f8QDbTW0CFKP

Think of it less as a stud finder and more of a device that allows you to find metal on the other side of your drywall. A long, solid magnetic pull is a pipe. A vertical line of magnetic dots is a stud.

u/b_doodrow · 2 pointsr/houston

I think this is the one we used. We gave it away when we were done so I can't say for certain. Just make sure it has the probes like this one. They are fairly cheap. We bought a couple of them and compared. The ones that do not have probes show a much lower moisture content which is not ideal

u/PruHTP · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Unless the OP has built the deck in a arid mostly dry area with little to no rain/snow all a moisture meter will do is tell the OP when the moisture has dropped below the percentage needed for sealing. Climate wise, a few things are needed to be present; low humidity, dry and warm conditions above 60F (during the daytime hours). In order to hit all three currently, due to the season(s) we're entering,
currently waiting is warranted.

As to the moisture content, depending on the wood used I'd use a higher percentage for moisture content to be below 15% for kiln dried lumber and less than 17% for pressure treated lumber.

If the OP wants to get a moisture meter, they can get one from Amazon for less than $30.

https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Moisture-Meter-Detector-Pin-Type/dp/B07Q5TFB74

u/Pastafarian75 · 0 pointsr/AdamCarolla

I swear by this one. http://amzn.com/B000IKK0OI It hasn't failed me yet.

u/splitlip_jay · 9 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get a moisture meter and check for moisture. It doesn’t look like recent water damage. Tough to tell without a moisture reading.

something like this

u/TrickyWon · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

This works beautifully it has a light coating on the back so you don't leave marks on the walls when you slide it around. Also, sweep diagonally when using it.

u/compulsivehobbyist · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Hopefully just bad workmanship. Might be worth picking up a moisture meter to verify that you don't have water getting in through the roof/attic

General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MQV1Bb6X2HRQY

u/abcd3fghijklmnop · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

This one worked for me, it finds the nails in the stud.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_MRGpDbF3WC35Z

u/TheMantelope · 5 pointsr/lifehacks

I use this magnetic stud finder: Totally Non-Risky Click I Swear

u/themightyambassador · 1 pointr/SoCalR4R

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

This one, it's just magnetic and does not have adjustable electronic sensors.

u/to_protect_the · 1 pointr/DIY

This is what I use in my old house: CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t5StDb0W5KXV8

u/Mandrillsy · 1 pointr/DIY

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI I've used this for years and will never use anything else again... yea it's just a magnet

u/ftpguy · 1 pointr/AskMenOver30

I got one of these from my brother in law for Christmas one year and it’s my go to stud finder now:

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lh7GDbK6PMJF5

u/guysquatch · 1 pointr/FortCollins

> Zircon stud finder

I am a very handy person and those things suck. Get a magnetic one and use the tip about outlets and you should be good.

E: I have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=stud+finder&qid=1558706765&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/scottmccauley · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Here are the links without the referral tags:
Stud-finder and Fish Tape.

u/bungwu · 3 pointsr/DIY

I have only ever used the magnet based ones that are inexpensive. The magnets find the drywall nails which are only in the studs.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504558503&sr=1-4&keywords=stud+finder

u/ihartponiez · 2 pointsr/DIY

There are actually stud finders made with rare earth magnets: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

I've used lots of fancy electric ones in the past. Nothing is more consistent than this cheap thing.

u/Faloopa · 36 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

This is a tool you need! I switched from a traditional wall-irregularity finder to one of these and it leveled up my handyman skill.

u/steviethev · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have a "deep reading" stud finder that worked wonders for finding studs behind thick plaster. It wasn't all that expensive either - this is what I have