Reddit mentions: The best screwdrivers & nut drivers

What kind of experience are you guys coming into this with?

Do you have mentors/are you yourselves familiar with the use and safety precautions necessary around power tools?

What kind of space are you in? Do you have a dedicated space to use or do you need to move things in and out of an area every meeting?

How much do you want to learn? Are you planning on using primarily Matrix/Tetrix this season or do you want to do custom fabrication?

If you're planning on using chain, I'd recommend getting at least one of these (Dark Soul #25 chain tool). You won't need to use master links again, and they're just in general great to have around.

I would definitely recommend getting Anderson Powerpole tools and items. Definitely get a TriCrimp and associated wire, connectors, and contacts, if you don't have them already.

I'd also recommend a few tools that come in useful just in general when it comes to FTC-- a good adjustable wrench is good to have around, whether you're doing custom or not. A ratcheting screwdriver is also good to have around, in addition to more standard versions. I'd also recommend my personal favorite allen wrenches (you can get just metric or standard sets, but I linked the paired version). For taking care of stuck bolts or anything else stuck, a good pair of locking pliers are also great. Also getting some good pliers for all your electrical needs is a good idea. Also extremely useful is a good square. On a similar note, a level is good for checking whether you actually bolted that part on straight.

You should also get a general set of combo wrenches and some of the specific sizes most common for FTC. Pretty much any reputable brand is fine for this-- don't spend more than about $50 for a set and $10 for an individual wrench (honestly, that would be super high, you should probably target half of that). A decent ratchet set is also good, but not absolutely essential.

Other good things to have around are a heat gun or heat bar (for doing custom plastic parts for your robot). You can do some great stuff with some creativity and some sheet polycarbonate.

To go with that, a vinyl cutter is great for doing sponsor decals and general cool stuff.

As far as "essentials" go, that depends on where you want to go. If you want to do lots of custom work-- or use something like 80/20, then you'll want some other tools to do that work. A good power drill is absolutely essential, and if you have the space, I'd definitely recommend getting a solid miter saw and an aluminum cutting blade (I know some people consider them too dangerous, but with proper safety training and precautions, I've never had a student or mentor get injured with one).

As far as materials for doing custom work go, I'd recommend getting some box aluminum (1x1 and 1x2) tubing, 1/8" and 1/16" polycarbonate (I'm partial to the dark tinted stuff, but it's a bit more expensive), and a full assortment of #6 and maybe #8 hardware. You'll also want some M3 screws for face mounting AndyMark and REV robotics motors. I like to use Copper State for this, because while they have a totally garbage web ordering system, their prices are great, and their website isn't that bad (to be honest, I'm a bit spoiled by McMaster-Carr).

You probably don't need me to tell you what kind of COTS parts might be good (if that's within the scope of this money). Electronics, good phones (not those stupid ZTEs), motors, are all good.


You'll notice that I'm not suggesting the very budget stuff-- while you can go that direction if you need to, quality tools help you get quality results. If you have the money to get and use the right tools for the job, I always recommend doing that as opposed to cheaping out with something you'll just end up breaking and messing up your robot with later.

A decent chunk of the tools I linked are suggested by my personal favorite review site, The WireCutter/SweetHome. I've used the majority of them, and my experience has been good enough that I don't have an issue recommending their suggestions for other tools relevant to FTC.

Hopefully that was somewhat helpful. I'd definitely consider the answers to the questions at the top-- they can help you narrow down what will actually be useful for you. I can definitely give more specific suggestions if you know what direction you're taking with robot building techniques and how much space you have/ whether you have to move.

Here would be my suggestion.

I was selecting my motherboard and.. found this very nice looking green one. So I decided to make the rest of the build matching!

This is absolutely not a requirement and we can lower the price by not going for a green only build.

Let me know if you don't care about this and I will change it.

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I decided to go for a 1080p monitor instead of a 1440p. Reason being that you can play any game at 1080p at high / ultra settings @ 60 FPS.

You can also play most games on high settings at 1440p, but I also wanted to spend the money on other components.

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I will quickly give a rationale or reviews for some of my suggestions.

I will provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I went for these products.

Lastly, I'll also provide a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.

I have to post this in a reply to this comment, since I went over the 10.000 character limit reddit provides per post.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $204.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | RAIJINTEK RHEA 33.6 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $14.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Gigabyte G1.Sniper B7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $91.99 @ NCIX US
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $31.99 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $59.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Adorama
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon R9 390 8GB Video Card | $308.98 @ Newegg
Case | Phanteks ECLIPSE P400 ATX Mid Tower Case | $77.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Monitor | Acer KN242HYL 60Hz 23.8" Monitor | $110.98 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $27.99 @ Amazon
Headphones | Sennheiser HD 518 Headphones | $67.95 @ Amazon
USB Stick| Kingston 16GB USB 3.0| $6.00 @ Amazon
Tool| Magnetic Scewdriver Set| $4.00 @ Amazon
Mouse Pad| PECHAM Extended (30.71"x11.81")| $13.00 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1230.80
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |

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####My rationale for the chosen products:

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CPU: Intel quad-core, locked, Skylake CPU clocked at 3,2GHz with a turbo boost up to 3,6GHz. This is a very strong CPU and more than capable of playing any game for a long time.
Clock speeds do not matter much for most games currently available, neither does hyperthreading (feature that i7's got).

CPU Cooler: Product page
Slightly better than the Intel stock cooler, easy to install, much more silent CPU cooler. It also looks a bit better (no blue!).
Motherboard: Product page
This is an awesome gaming motherboard from Gigabyte. It got very solid on-board sound, DDR4, support for Crossfire, M.2 SSD / WiFi & Intel® GbE LAN cFosSpeed. It also got 2 LED strips (on the left & right side) to really make the inside of the PC glow green.
The on-board sound is something that I really appriciate & the cFosSpeed LAN controller allows you to prioritize games over other random internet junk, to get a slightly better connection to game servers. Reducing potential lagg & ping spikes.
Memory: RAM is RAM. This means that brand & speed do not matter. The performance between DDR3-1333MHz & DDR4-3000MHz is very low in almost all games.
Dual- vs single channel also does not matter in terms of FPS performance in games.
The only thing that matters is capacity. So I went with 1x8GB as a start, this is enough for pretty much every game currently available. It also allows you to upgrade to up to 32GB later if you ever require more. You can see this in your task manager. If you notice that you hit 7GB+ during gaming sessions and notice that your FPS is dropping, you should close some RAM tasking programs (chrome tabs!) or upgrade your RAM. When you do upgrade, I highly recommend to try and buy the exact same stick as I currently recommend. This will reduce the chance of errors or corruption to a minimum.
Storage: Review (SSD)
This SSD does not blow your socks of in terms of performance. But it does blow your socks of in terms of it's price to performance ratio.
In the review they don't have the same prices as we currently do. Also compared to the 850 EVO it performs very well.
Here is a comparision.
Video Card: Review (of it's bigger brother)
I sadly can't find a review of this exact model, but I can tell you that it will perform roughly the same.
The reason why we both suggest the R9-390 over the GTX970 is for a few reasons. The performance is in general better on the R9-390, aside from a few titles where the "benchmarks" favor Nvidia. AMD has been making great progress with their drivers and performance is currently very much in favor of the R9-390 over the GTX970.
Also the GTX970 only got 3,5GB of usable VRAM. That means 4,5GB less than the R9-390. For 1080p gaming this does not matter much, but if you later upgrade to 1440p, it can absolutely be a difference maker.
Case: Review
This case really makes the green build come together. The front LED color can be changed to white or a few other colors as well.
The case will come with rubber grommets as well! It just was a pre-production sample, which was not ready just yet. Cable management is sadly still without any cable tie loops, but the velcro will help a lot to keep the cables fairly tidy!
If you really don't care about the look of the case + a window + lightning, then let me know and I can suggest a cheaper option! Also, the case is currently not available just yet, they will start shipping it in 2 days. It also comes in metallic grey, for the same price if you would prefer that!
Power Supply: Review
5 year warranty, 80+ gold, semi-modular all black cable design, semi-passive fan profile, 650W PSU from EVGA made by FSP. This PSU is really one of the best value PSUs on the market. Yes I know $70 isn't really "value" but a PSU is a very important part of the PC and I never want to skimp here.
This PSU is more than capable of powering the system that will draw around 350W at max load. The semi-modular design is great, since this means you only need to plug in the cables that you require which will make cable management a bit easier.
Monitor: I can't even find the product page. It's a very cheap IPS, 1080p monitor. I highly recommend IPS for your games & 1080p is going to be fine, if you want to go for 1440p, you absolutely have the option. But this would put me over budget.
The reviews on Newegg aren't super amazing. But you also have to remember that when an item breaks, people will report this - when it keeps working, they generally won't get back to Newegg to report this.
Keyboard & Mouse: Review
This is a review of the blue LED version, but aside from this it's exactly the same. For $28 it's really a great value.
It are absolutely not amazingly high quality products either, so don't expect the best performance and features from it.
Mousepad: Large, huge, mouse pad that is cheap and does the job! You will love this mousepad, I am sure of it.
Headphones: Review (from users)
This pair of headphones is actually amazing considering the price. The only thing that it "lacks" is a microphone. So if you want this, you either have to buy a headset (Kingston HyperX Cloud (not the II)) or a separate microphone. I would personally recommend the stand-a-lone microphone.

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

Here are some of my personal supplies and tool recommendations.

An anti-corrosive spray, doesn’t hurt paint but I’d be careful about yours anyway.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1C8UO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5v0NDb496VPF6

A good tire pressure gauge. www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DLGU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dy0NDb58BP0WX

A basic multimeter. www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

A great battery tender, a lifetime purchase. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

A very good spray on bike cleaner. www.amazon.com/dp/B0036GK83Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XB0NDbJZZC76W

A good explanation about testing your battery and charging system, goes well with the multimeter and tender.

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

These screwdrivers or ones like it are a must. www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_kBB7AbGCN238A

A winter storage checklist, very detailed, and can probably pare it down a little but...

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

The best (IMO) winter gas treatment. www.amazon.com/dp/B001CAW2DK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ryNKDb9RRE8KF

One of many easy to use lift, works for both front or rear, may have a model for a smaller bike, this is for my Yamaha Raider www.amazon.com/dp/B016Z01QYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UH0NDbVMTEC9K

A great totally enclosed cover, find the size for your bike. I attach the battery tender, the cord comes out where the zipper meets.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001I7XYZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sJ0NDbTJAPEEB

For maintenance questions, a great sub is r/Fixxit.

That’s all I can think of at the moment, welcome to the Club and Happy Trails!

After you have read up on this stuff, watched coil build videos, learned ohm's law, etc. I have some gear reccomendations.

Sigelei 100W+ box. The plus version is what I have. Dual batteries in series (that means it has an input voltage of 8.4V) and output from 10-100W. Floating pin (meaning you don't have to adjust it for different sized atomizers). It also comes with a silicon sleeve if you are butterfingers like me. That should run about $100 from most retailers, give or take $10. If you're handy and have some time, you can build your own box mod using a few different chips (DNA30/40, Yihi SX350, etc).

That brings up my second piece, batteries. DO NOT skimp on batteries, you need good ones. You need 2 18650 batteries that you keep together and only use in this mod. Switch the positions of them each charge. I recommend Samsung 25r batteries. High continuous amp limit (if you exceed it then the battery might fail), but they aren't really pushed up that far on a Sig 100W. That is more important with a mechanical mod. You also need a charger, the Nitecore D2 is a great one.

Then for an RDA (rebuildable dripping atomizer) I suggest a CLT V2+ like others here. It won't break the bank (about $35, or $12 clone from fasttech.com). Easy deck to build on because of the block centerpost. Good airflow, and you can restrict it as much as you need. You can also get an RTA (rebuildable tank atomizer) like a kayfun, fogger, or orchid. I have had bad experiences with these, mostly because I fucked up when building. That pretty much ends up with the full tank of juice emptying in your lap. But it can be done. I prefer RDAs for simplicity and the ability to change flavors if I don't want a whole tank.

You also need wick and wire. A-1 Kanthal is what most of us use. Its cheap, and 28 or 26 gauge is a good starting size. Higher gauge means smaller wire and higher resistance. For wick, I use rayon and japanese cotton. Any of these will last you a long time.

You don't need a resistance tester if you get a sig 100W, but it will be more precise than the box. You also need something to cut cotton (it is way harder than it sounds) like tiny scissors and something to snip wires like small flush cutters. Tweezers to squeeze those coils and make them look nice and purty are also nice to have. A small screwdriver set is perfect for wrapping coils. "Coil Jigs" are overpriced and necessary.

I would buy all the stuff I linked through Amazon, its cheaper there than most vape websites. For batteries and chargers, use Illumn or Lightning Vapes. Wire, resistance testers, and tweezers are also fairly priced at Lightning Vapes. There are a few places to get the Sigelei 100W+ and the CLT v2+. Fasttech is amazing and I love China. This site carries cheap clones of other devices. Good place to get RDAs if you are willing to wait for shipping and read the reviews/discussions. There are so many things I would never purchase because they are out of my budget that Fasttech made available.

Youtube I guess. Here's some info about rebuilding in general, feel free to skip what you already know. Make sure you get an ohm reader first thing. You can buy wire and an ohm reader at lightningvapes.com with coupon code LV20 for 20% off. I think most people recommend 26g wire. I went with 24 and it's awesome for subohming, if you're planning to build higher, 28g would be the best. I'm not sure how well 30g will work out but the link below will let you know!

Also check out this website: http://steam-engine.org/coil.asp

On there you input your gauge wire, single/dual/etc coil, your target resistance and what the diameter of your coil is (you'll know this by which drill bit you wrap your wire around. It'll tell you how many wraps to do to get the resistance you want. After you build you'll want to throw the atty on the ohm reader to check for shorts (it won't show a regular reading if it's shorting) and also to check if you're near what your target resistance was. Don't be worried if it's not exact, the 510 ohm reader boxes aren't known for accuracy. If you're within 0.05 ohms you're good. Also some people like to build on their ohm reader, it's nice.

As far as other tools for rebuilding. I would recommend this screwdriver set: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420044741&sr=1-2&keywords=stanley+6+piece+precision+screwdriver+set

It's great, I use it everytime I touch my mod for maintenance. Not sure what other people use but since I got that I never looked for anything else! The bits are awesome for wrapping coils around and the phillips will fit your post screws for sure.

That's about all you need really. Other than wire cutters and pliers/tweezers. You can get these awesome ceramic tipped tweezers from that first site. The ceramic won't get hot so you can squeeze your coils tighter with them while the coils are hot.

As far as preventing shorts, well I've never had a short so I can only tell you what I do. Don't let your coils' excess legs be hanging out and flying around all willy-nilly. Cut them nice and close and if you can't get close enough, bend them upward. That's about it as far as I know.

Let me know if you have any questions, sorry I couldn't teach you to build!

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Title | How To Install Windows 8.1 From USB Guide/Tutorial (Easiest Method)
Description | This is a real quick guide on our preferred method of installing Windows 8.1 from a USB flash drive. There are lots of other ways, but this is the one that is consistently most reliable and super easy to boot! What you need: 4GB+ Flash Drive Links: Get Windows 8.1 ISO from CD Key: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-CA/windows-8/create-reset-refresh-media Get 90 day Eval copy of Windows 8.1: http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/evalcenter/evaluate-windows-8-1-enterprise Windows ISO to USB tool: http://...
Length | 0:04:33


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Title | How to Install Windows 10 from a USB Flash Drive
Description | How to install Windows 10 from a flash drive. you would need a 4GB USB flash drive, or 8GB for the 64-bit version. Microsoft Windows 10 https://goo.gl/QbeS9R Disable UEFI http://www.avoiderrors.net/?p=18375 Change the boot order http://www.avoiderrors.net/?p=10562 Upgrade to Windows 10 If you don't want to loose data: https://youtu.be/e07j60JK58A How to Format and Clean Install Windows 10 https://youtu.be/E49IjCMKU4g
Length | 0:07:31


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Title | Top Must-Have Items When Building a PC!
Description | Squarespace Sponsor Link: www.squarespace.com/bitwit 10% off with offer code BITWIT Here are some handy things I've collected over the years for smoother cleaner PC building. US Klein No. 2 Phillips 7'' Screwdriver: http://amzn.to/2cu6zrA Maxcraft 60609 Pocket Screwdriver: http://amzn.to/2d139f3 ModRight Mod-Mat: http://amzn.to/2cqQVRa ModRight Mod-Mat XL: http://amzn.to/2d34jcG Capri 10012 Magnetic Screw Tray: http://amzn.to/2d13Chz Delcast MT02 Magnetic Project Mat: http://amzn.to/2ccZM7z A...
Length | 0:08:04


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Title | Graphics Card Specs: The Basics
Description | TL;DR - Reviews and benchmarks are the most important thing to look at when buying a new graphics card. But if you ARE curious as to what these specs mean, here's a video! Buy Graphics cards at NCIX: Canada: http://www.ncix.com/category/video-cards-5e-108.htm US: http://www.ncixus.com/products/index.php?minorcatid=108 VIDEO: How much VRAM do you need? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Utv144XeHag See news sources + discuss on our Forums: http://www.ncix.com/article/NMG.htm?url=http://forums.n...
Length | 0:08:10


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Title | Easiest Way To Setup a New Computer ft. Ninite - Tech Tips Suggested Software
Description | This episode of TTSS, we take another look at Ninite. It takes all the software you want and packs it into a single installation process. The entire NCIX team all use Ninite and we just can't give them enough credit. Learn More: http://goo.gl/TRf4R9 What Chrome Plugins We Use: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87nvzH6PPZg&list=PLhOBXy8CSH6mimsviutuS-VrxmKgqEZE_&index=4 Join the conversation on our community: Forums: http://forums.ncix.com/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/NCIXdotCOM Twitter: ...
Length | 0:08:32






****

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I just randomly stumbled across this...

For lighting, I use these for like 90% of the work. The other 10% is for special occasions that rarely come about, but if you're in LX then it's a solid investment:

• I have 2x of these and rarely use a C-wrench. Ultimate focus tool.
  
  
• Wera Kit -- (works nice with impact drivers too)
  
  
• A nice pair of 6-8" dikes.
  
  
• Headlamp REI has a huge selection. I prefer ones with red lights available so if you're backstage and it's dark you don't blind everyone.
  
  
• I see people with these folding utility knives a lot, though, I've never been a fan.
  
  
• Medkit (because I'm prone to accidents (also works as a pillow))
  
  
• 5.11 taclite pants are the best things ever. They'll last forever and they have kneepad inserts!
  
  The other 10% is just unique situations. You don't need a cable tester if you have a multimeter, you can invest in that later if you really use it that much. It does make things quicker though. Whomever you're working for should provide gaff, sharpies, notepad. You can invest later if you find you need it a lot.
  If you're up in the air a lot and tired of using phone cable or tripping on tieline for your wrench lanyard, then use a pistol lanyard; it's nice and rated and keeps out of the way. Scaff wrench? maybe if you're working with truss a lot, even then you're using it 10% of the time and you need a mallet to go with it. I'd also recommend steeltoed boots, for when idiots drop scaff wrenches on your foot. RedWing will last you forever and they have warranties. I like military/ tactical ones though, 'cause they're built for the beating and you can find breathable ones easily.
  
  Alright I'm done. I don't even know how I got here....
  
  
  > EDIT: I also live in southern California if anyone would like to give me some good stores I could probably browse around.
  
  
• Barbizon is amazing (not the talent company)
  
  
• Tour Supply is great when you're not spending your own cash
  
  
• Studio Depot -- Not sure if actual store you can walk around, or warehouse.

Get good wrenches, socket wrenches and sockets because these are what you will be using the vast majority of the time. Make sure you get a set of short AND deep sockets too. I might honestly get deep socket first if you have to pick. Also get a 3/4" torque wrench and don't get the harbor freight ones of those. Amazon has good options here. If you spent all of your money on the above items and then added other stuff later you'd be well served. Buying a big kit seems attractive but really putting your money where you will use it the most is a better long term plan. Gearwrench makes good ratcheting wrenches for the price if you want that, but if you aren't willing to spend at least that on wrenches amount get non-ratcheting wrenches instead. Also this thing is one of the handiest tools I own. It's very well built and a very clever design.

Harbor freight does make some OK stuff but it's better to buy less critical things there. I have a set of allen wrenches that have been fine, and their impact sockets are actually pretty good, but you probably won't have an impact for awhile (which is good tbh).

Northwest of England! I pray you're a Manchester United fan? Glory glory Man United!

Anyway, enough about football. Here's a build (with everything you'll need) as well as some useful videos.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | £185.95 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | £73.77 @ Box Limited
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | £136.77 @ Amazon UK
Storage | SanDisk - SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £74.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £35.99 @ Aria PC
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card | £293.48 @ BT Shop
Case | Phanteks - Enthoo Evolv TG (Silver) MicroATX Mini Tower Case | £111.09 @ Box Limited
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | £47.57 @ Ebuyer
Case Fan | be quiet! - Pure Wings 2 51.4 CFM 120mm Fan | £7.34 @ Aria PC
Case Fan | be quiet! - Pure Wings 2 51.4 CFM 120mm Fan | £7.34 @ Aria PC
Monitor | Asus - VP228H 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | £115.00 @ Amazon UK
Keyboard | Corsair - STRAFE Wired Gaming Keyboard | £70.74 @ Aria PC
Mouse | Logitech - G402 Wired Optical Mouse | £29.99 @ Amazon UK
Headphones | Logitech - G230 Headset | £37.00 @ Amazon UK
Other | SteelSeries QcK Gaming Mouse Pad (Black) | £8.99 @ Amazon UK
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £1236.01
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-21 04:37 BST+0100 |

You can get a copy of Windows 10 here and this link will teach you how to create a bootable USB drive.

This video will walk you through the build process step-by-step, and this one will walk you through the setup of your new rig from overclocking the RAM to installing Windows. If you need to update your BIOS to successfully overclock the RAM (you probably will), this video will walk you through that process.

To actually complete the build, you're going to need a few tools.
The essentials are a screwdriver, a pair of scissors/wirecutter, and zip ties for cable management. Some useful tools (that aren't mandatory) include a small screwdriver for the hard to reach places in the case, a magnetic screw tray to keep track of all those pesky screws, and an anti-static mat (can't find a link to one, but the brand I'd recommend is called ModMat).

I know it seems overwhelming, but you'll be okay! You have plenty of resources (and this sub!) available to help, and you're welcome to PM me for any help you may need :)

Feel free to ask anything!

Are you open to suggestions?

If you haven't already ripped the packaging off of it, my personal recommendation is to not use the Klein non-contact voltage tester (ticker). My experience with it was not good. It was unreliable and the on/off button is junk so the damn thing would never turn off, then it would sit and beep at me constantly while it was in my tool pouch. I finally got rid of it and bought the Santronics ticker. Easily one of the best purchases I've made as an electrician. It's always on, silent, and extremely reliable.

Also, for your hammer I would recommend one with a longer head on it like this one. The reason for this is because you will be doing a lot of work with deep 1900 boxes and 11bs (don't worry if you don't know what those are yet, you will find out soon) and if you're using fasteners that require pounding in with a hammer, you will need a different hammer than the one you have. If you're doing residential work and need to pound staples inbetween studs, you can just use the side of your hammer.

You can probably just return those gloves. You will (or should) be provided with work gloves (many, many pairs of them) at every jobsite you ever work at. You'll never have to buy another pair of work gloves in your life, I can promise you that.

As others have said, get the Klein multi-tool. The 32500 model is the one I use, along with some other commenters in this thread. They are cheap, you'll probably lose the tips every now and then, but it will easily be your most used tool, especially if you're doing a lot of devicing.

Another personal recommendation of mine would be the Ideal Tool Backpack for hauling your stuff around. Sometimes there's a lot of walking involved in getting to and from jobsites, and being able to carry your tools on your back is a lot nicer than carrying them in your hands. It's also nice having your hands free for carrying your lunch box around!

Congratulations on getting in! Keep up a good attitude and you'll do fine. Don't let anyone get on your nerves. 8 hours is 8 hours, make the best of it at all times.

I don't do much production work these days, as I work in an office repairing lighting equipment, so that's definitely colored my opinions, but here they are.

I used to be a fan of multitools, but these days I prefer to actually have real tools - with a multitool you get a decent pair of pliers and a lot of sub-par tools.

I like the stage junk focus tools, though at this point I've managed to lose two and haven't replaced the second one. On the occasion I am hanging or focusing, I use one of these. I bought it my first summer stock season years ago and it's held up pretty well.

My favorite interchangeable screwdriver is from Wera. All of their tools are superlatively engineered and constructed, and you can't go wrong.

If you're in a theatre production context and might need to solder, I recommend Hakko tools. I've had my station (an older, non-blue model) for something like a decade. I'm still using the tips that came with it and they're as shiny and clean as the day I got it, and it still operates perfectly.

For pliers and cutters, Lindstrom is the top of the line as far as I'm concerned. I don't have many of these because they are definitely $$$ but they can't be beat.

despite not having anything on your want list, I wanted to ask about the Wavebirds. have you tried taking them apart and cleaning them? are there dead spots on the actual boards? it might benefit you to take them apart and dust them. that helped me with a wired Gamecube controller that had a sticky X button and one of the sticks acting weird; now it's in perfect working order. if you're able to find the receivers, that would also help you be able to get rid of them. people rarely want controllers with no receivers, and you also can't very well test them without at least one.

if you don't have a tri-wing, you might have some luck taking them apart with a small flathead screwdriver. I did that before spending $3 on the tri-wing one that worked pretty well since I was careful and didn't force it badly enough to destroy the heads of the screws. I know from experience that the tri-wing screwdriver works for Gamecube controllers, the DS Lite, and GBA carts. I've also read that it will help dismantling Wiimotes, the Wii itself, the Gamecube console, and quite a few other of Nintendo's things. it's worth the $4 if you have any technical knowledge and would trust yourself taking things apart. which I understand many people wouldn't, which is also fine.

and actually, upon further inspection, and after clicking the link to your full want list, that was a lie. I do have a spare copy of Wind Waker without a manual, but I certainly won't be trading that for some half-dead controllers with no receivers, especially if the boards are what's shot.

also, I'm pretty sure that Platinum Game Boy Players were Japan only, and are relatively rare, so I wish you the best of luck finding one. I would love to have my Game Boy Player match my beautiful platinum system, along with its controllers and two of my Wavebirds, but I guess it just wasn't meant to be, and I don't care enough to invest in such a swap when there are games I could be getting instead.

So, if you're on a tight budget I would suggest trying the Nikon manual focus lenses. I had the 50, 35, and the 105. They are good lenses but I had my issues with them. They focus backwards, to go to infinity you rotate the focus ring the opposite way of nearly every other lens. They also have a distinct bokeh, it's not bad, just not my taste. They are cheap and really easy to come by.

To declick lenses you should only need a good set of precision set of screwdrivers. I have these
You can look up declicking specific lenses on Google.

I also purchased [this](Neewer Professional Flat & pointhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5F6O92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kPn1xbT6E3FVK) so I could take off the front element of the lens if it needed cleaning. Totally not necessary for cine modding but fun to take apart lenses.

You can buy focus gears from all kinds of places online. There are plenty of choices and prices. I buy mine from followfocus gears.com they aren't cheap, but they are seamless, and are 3D printed for specific lenses. They fit perfectly.

For the adapters, I've had some good luck with fotodiox in the past. They are relatively cheap. Sometimes they don't fit as snuggly as they should and that is a problem. With my 105mm when I would touch the lens to focus the lens would physically move side to side and the image would shift. Not good for video. For my contax set I purchase Leitax adapters that actually screw on the the existing mount so they can't shift at all.

For you I suggest you getting a cheap 50mm and try it out. You don't need to buy the gears or declick right away. Just get a lens and an adapter and see how you like it. Stay away from Canon FD lenses as you need an adapter with a glass element in it to focus to infinity. It's not worth the hassle and hard to find a good quality adapter with out breaking the bank.

Preventative maintenance is a really good idea. I never had any issues with mine, but then read some horror stories about dust build-up and YLODs on this subreddit and decided to get in front of it, especially since I have three dogs running around (lots of pet hair and dust).

I bought the special screwdriver you need off Amazon for like $4, watched some YouTube tutorials, and opened her up. WOW. I couldn't believe the amount of dust and hair that had been collected over the years. And I found that after I cleaned it out and put it back together, it actually ran quieter than it had been running... I hadn't noticed but it had gotten a bit louder over the years. Now I clean it every 6 months like clockwork - I have even started taking my controllers apart and cleaning them out at the same time.

As long as you're careful and following the numerous instructional videos or write-ups, there's really no detriment to keeping your system clean. My PS3 has had regular use for about 8 years now, and I credit its relatively long life to keeping it clean.

Link to special screwdriver: https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521578661&sr=8-3&keywords=ps3+screwdriver

Link to tutorial I always bring up when cleaning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsuSnYXQLoI

First off, many of these things are intentionally cheap, because I do tend to break and/or lose things, so... Here goes.
All have Amazon links, because that was what was easiest.


Jewelry:

• Elder Scrolls Imperial symbol arrowhead necklace - I made this from scrap a while ago for a basic metal-arts class.
  
  
• Kris knife necklace - Got this at a Renaissance Fest last year, and I also like wearing it.
  
  
• UP by Jawbone (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A17IAO0) - Really great sleep tracker, plug-and-sync
  
• Fitbit Flex (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGO0Q9O) - The de-facto fitness tracker, wireless sync
  
  
• Pebble watch (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BKEQBI0) - Simple smartwatch
  
  
  Right front pocket:
  
  
• Frame-lock box cutter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W) - Was using a frame-lock knife, to open boxes. Replaced it with this, been happy since.
  
  
• Precise V5 RT (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E6A9M8) - My favorite ball-point pen. Looking forward to the arrival of a Lamy Al-Star fountain pen.
  
  
• Zebra M301 0.5mm (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BLC7FG) - Great intro engineering pencils.
  
  
• Galaxy S5
  
  
• Chapstick
  
  
• Pentel plastic eraser (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q4HQVU) - For the larger-than-one-character mistakes.
  
  
  Left front pocket:
  
  
• 4-in-1 screwdriver (similar to http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014KMDZ0) - Thin profile screwdriver. Awesome. Clips away in a corner and you can forget about it until you need it.
  
  
• Streamlight MicroStream (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00143JZ08) - Tiny little flashlight, amazing little clip. Clip it in a corner and forget it until you need it.
  
  
• Mighty Wallet (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036FN60W) - I keep it relatively thin in contents, and it's amazingly thin by itself.
  
  
• Sennheiser CX300IIs (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EZYMF4) - Some of the best little cheap earbuds. I have over-the-ears for desk-work, but these can go with me easily.
  
  
• Yubikey Neo (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LX8KZZ8) - For my 2FA needs, both on the phone and PC. I use it with LastPass.
  
  
• Spare AAA Battery
  
  
• 12" baton (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHDLF8E) - For self defense, since I stopped carrying a knife, and it's more actually useful for defense than my old knife was anyway.
  
  
  Wallet highlights:
  
  
• Band-aids - I chew my cuticles and pick at scabs. Bad habit. Nice to have these around.
  
  
• Bottle opener - Got this as swag from a startup I used to work for.
  
• Sewing kit - For emergency mending
  
  
• Guitar picks (I like http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002D0CGC)
  
  
• Safety pins
  
  
• Handcuff key
  
  
• Handcuff shim - Nice when handcuffs aren't double-locked; sometimes easier to manipulate than the keys.
  
  
  Left back pocket:
  
  
• Field Notes graph-ruled notebook (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006CQT2KU) - reasonably durable, cheap notebooks.
  
  
  Not shown:
  
  
• Keysmart Extended key holder (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JXQQNC6) - Nice to keep my work keys from jangling around
  
  
• Car keys

It might be worth looking at some of the industrial brands - they basically sell the truck tool brands (snap-on/matco/etc) for like 1/2 the price:

http://toolchat.net/ shows which models match up.

If you want to go cheaper, I personally think the gearwrench line of stuff is one of the best bets for quality:price. You also get free returns at autozone/sears/etc.

One thing to keep in mind is what tools you ACTUALLY need. For example, is your truck domestic or foreign? You may not really need SAE style sockets all.

General tips I've found researching tools:

• 6pt sockets do better at not rounding out nuts than 12pt
  
• A variety of deep and standard sockets is a good idea
  
• For screwdrivers, the swiss/german stuff is really good (wiha, witte, etc)
  
  I'd avoid craftsman these days. Most of the modern stuff is all made in china and pretty crappy. The exception would be if you wait for sales and get stuff really cheap, like $1-$2 per wrench.
  
  Here are some sets I'd consider buying:
  
  Williams Socket Set - because it's 3/8" which is a good balanced compromise, has both metric and SAE, deep and shallow. Industrial snap-on.
  
  Wiha precision screwdriver set - For small electronics work with PH000, PH00, etc
  
  Williams WRS-1 ratcheting screwdriver - This one is a snap-on clone at like 1/2 the price
  
  Don't overspend on tools as just a home/shadetree mechanic. If you want to splurge anywhere, just pick a few select tools that you'll use a lot like a ratchet, power drill, #1 screwdriver.
  

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I noticed a glaring omission from your coffers.

Lineman's pliers, I'd recommend these Channellock's, or if you have a few dollars more their Code Blue line. They also have models with fishtape pullers if you need them.

Other things you could probably use are a good pair of wire nips. You won't find a better value than these Hakkos, A non-marring hammer/deadblow hammer is quite handy to have around. A pair of needlenose pliers. A variety of precision screwdrivers or an encompassing bit set, I like this Tekton Everybit set (confession, mine was a gift from Tekton rather recently but it is still an honest opinion)..

And where are your safety glasses, hmm?

BTW That is a nice selection of tools, this isn't really criticism, just trying to think of things you might find useful that you don't already have...

Don't buy a new controller, clean/ fix your existing one. It will cost a lot less (~15$) and you will be able to clean/fix all of your other controllers as well. May sound weird because I'm telling you to fix your existing one but don't buy replacement joysticks... the rubber will just fall off on those too... =[ Ive wasted some $ on shitty "replacement" joysticks that don't even last a day. Buy 1 pack of these [ **.com/Cyber-%E3%83%BBPremium-Slide-Cover-Clear-Black/dp/B00UURTXK6/ref=sr_1_1?s=instant-video&ie=UTF8&qid=1479033751&sr=8-1&keywords=3ds+circle+pad+cover ] and glue it to your joystick. I used an epoxy resin because i figured it would do the best gluing plastic on plastic but super glue would probably work too. You should still buy a tri-wing screwdriver [ ***.com/Gen-Lite-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Tool/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479034061&sr=8-1&keywords=triwing+screwdriver ] and some wet-wipes to get inside the controller and clean up a bit. Mine works like brand new but even better because the joystick will never wear down. I'll never part with my original orange GC controller >.<

I guess the moderators dont want people posting links so they deleted my original post... lol anyways just replace "****" with "https://www.amazon" if you want to see those items

I know exactly what you're talking about. I have one that's not craftsman but some other no name brand. It has a clear handle and red top and bottom. It took me a long time to find a similar replacement online.

The trick to finding them is to search for Auto Loading Screwdrivers. This ones seems similar.
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Auto-loading-Multi-bit-Screwdriver/dp/B00333Q27Q


To be honest though I don't think many manufacturers make them anymore and instead do just the multiple bits stored in the handle style.

For casual use I love the little clear handle autoloading driver. But over time I've become very accustomed to this guy as well. It's a standard, multiple bits in the handle kind, but with a really nice feeling ratcheting action. Its the same one that Snap-On rebrands.
https://www.amazon.com/Williams-WRS-1-Magnetic-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B002NI1LZK

26ga kanthal

Cotton

Screwdriver set

Ohm reader

Velocity clone by tobecco

Pliers

That's about $60 bucks after shipping, and gets you pretty much everything you need.

You can opt for higher quality things. There's some great coil jig sets out there for about $15, which basically make coils for you. Theres higher quality cotton, better kanthal but this is a good basic setup. It's what I use, at least.

You'll see a lot of people vouching for the velocity clone, its a great RDA with a lot of room to build on.

As far as what mod you want? That's tough. That's a whole other conversation. I can tell you what I use, and what I like about them, though.

I use a Sigelli 150 TC, it's a dual 18650 box mod with temp control, I have two Samsung 25r's that have been "married" since I got them, and live in my mod. My Velocity usually sits on top of it. I use this set up at home, and try new builds on it.

My on the go set up is a Smok xcube mini box mod single 18650, with a royal hunter mini on top. I make sure to build around .3 to .4 on this set up, and stay in a safe range for the single battery. Using an online ohms law calculator, I'm vaping a .38 build at 40 watts. Which is drawing 10a from my battery that's rated for 20a.

Oh good, I've never known pcpartpicker to get compatibility wrong. Plus, from what I can see your build looks great. I did want to note that a GTX 1080 will only be different from a cheaper graphics card if you have a monitor that can utilise its power, i.e. one that is 1440p and 144hz (or more). If you're using a monitor with a lower resolution or refresh rate, say a 1080p/60hz monitor that's the most common, I'd consider a cheaper graphics card (like a GTX 1060 6GB), because there will be noticeable difference in performance. Just wanted to make sure you knew that. : ) I see a lot of people overspend just to have a GTX 1080 even though there will be no difference at all in what they can see on their screen.

Getting to the question you actually asked: So people like to say that you can build the entire computer with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver (that's the "regular" size). This is basically true. I'd recommend spending $10-15 on an extra long scewdriver (10 to 12 inches). The length really helps when working deep in the case. I bought one after my second build, and since then the builds have been SO much better. I have one like this one and it's great. Especially since it's magnetic.

Another extremely useful item is a magnetic scew/bolt tray, like this one will save you a LOT of time and trouble.

The one and only screw on most builds that doesn't take a standard screwdriver is the tiny screw that holds m.2 SSDs into place. I didn't see if you have an m.2 SSD or a 2.5" one. Either way, a small precision screwdriver set can be very useful. I own this one which is extremely high quality, but there are much cheaper versions out there. They come in quite useful around the house too.

So long story short, you can basically get away with just a cheap standard screwdriver, but a couple of extra tools can make your life a lot easier.

Hey there! I started circuit bending a year or so ago and I was asking a lot of the same questions as you.

Google around for circuit bending tutorials and you are bound to find some.

Here's what worked for me:

• Find toys/electronics to circuit bend.
  
  -These are usually found in thrift stores, like Goodwill.
  
  -Don't buy new toys from a department store, they usually have electronic components that are more modern and harder to mess with.
  
  -Don't spend a lot of money on a thing unless you are certain you know exactly how you are going to mess with it. I'm poor, so saving money was a huge aspect for me.
  
  -Look for stuff that was made somewhere between 1980 - 2005ish. test it out in the store first to make sure it makes noises, the more the better. (You can sometimes hear if a toy is older, its sounds sometimes sound a bit more 'low-quality' or something... At least to me. One indicator is this: If the batteries are running low, a good toy to circuit bend will make some odd sounds.)
  
  
• Buy the crud you need, but don't overdo it. Here's my motto: cheap is fine for first projects, but invest in better if you stick with it. You need:
  
  -solder
  
  -a soldering iron
  
  -Alligator leads(clips)
  
  -Several screwdrivers of varying sizes.
  
  -Several smaller screwdrivers
  
  -wire
  
  -resistors (look online for more details)
  
  -These are the basics, but there may be more you need. Look online more.
  
  
• Circuit bend.
  
  -Use an area with good light.
  
  -Google for tutorials for your specific item. You might have gotten lucky and gotten a commonly circuit-bent item.
  
  -Google for tutorials for specific effects. You might want to make your item make certain sounds. Google will help you find people who have done it before you, if it has been done.
  
  -Google for tutorials for any questions you have. People have probably asked it before. If you get stuck, phrase your question as many ways as possible and Google the variations. You will find answers, even if they are not the specific ones you were looking for. All information you digest will help you better learn this game of circuit bending.
  
  Yeah man... I dunno. Just use Google and if you're really into it, keep reading more about it. Stop by every thrift store you see or if you're loaded, buy whatever shit you wanna bend on Ebay. Buy the stuff you need online, at local electronic stores, or if you absolutely have to, radio shack.
  
  Here's a good site to start. Just read.

Well good for you, keep it up.

Building isn't hard. Just make sure you have the right tools or it'll be frustrating. You should try it. Get these wire cutters: https://www.fasttech.com/product/1243300-plato-170-flush-cutter-for-rebuildable-atomizers and a small set of screwdrivers like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G Wire like this: https://www.amazon.com/UD-Youde-wire-Kanthal-Clapton/dp/B01JH0JJL4 Cotton like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2GXGAU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vbk-WVjd9dE&app=desktop

You can get as advanced as you want with it but doing a simple build takes minutes and IMO, is the best way to go.

Also want to point out I didn't purchase all my stuff from those links, but those are the products you need. Those sites I linked should be legitimate, but you could always shop around for a better price or slight variations if you want.

Have a great night!

that's a pretty legit list right there. I have a trunk full of gear, probably worth almost as much as my car. I do a lot of contract work, so my list is pretty much the same just slightly beefed up.

• I have a basic tech kit from Amazon
  
• I have a buttset Sometimes reffered to as a linemans set.
  
• About 10 of these Floating around my car/trunk/tool bags and person. because i like to lose things lol
  
• A Basic cable tester
  
• This Cable mapper
  
• Coax crimper (For tv, and bnc)
  
• Crimp Kit
  
• I buy these Like candy, they're perfect for ISO's for giving to customers with instructions and/or iso's just perfect in general for a lot of things.
  
• Stinger Flash light Serves double duty as a i'm a volunteer first and second responder
  
• Cable stripper
  
  Replenishables
  
  
• I Keep at least 50 of these on hand
  
• rg59 tips (CCTV BNC Tips)
  
• RG6 tips (Cable TV)
  
• RJ45 tips (A mason jar filled with about 60-100)
  
• at minimum of box of cat5 Sometimes up to three boxes. i will have a job soon that will require six of them lol.
  
• Patch Cables 3f and 5ft usually at minimum 10 of each
  
• zip ties (Usually three containers of 500 of assorted sizes)
  
• White 2 4 and 6 port keystone faceplates
  
• White keystone blanks
  
• low voltage mounting brackets
  
• white 1 and 2 port surface mount boxes
  
• some hdmi cables (Usually just 4 or 5 of these)
  
• electrical tape (5 50' rolls of different color) for many things
  
• Pull string
  
• dikes (Not really but they dissappear so fast they feel like it) like These
  
• I actually keep two label makers
  
• Rolls of 8 inch velcro ties
  
  contractor things
  
  
• Step bits
  
• Paddle bits
  
• Hole Saw Kit
  
• Masonry bits
  
• Caulk gun
  
• caulk
  
• grommets
  
• Ladder
  
• First aid kit
  
• 150' Fish tape
  
• An 18V Cordless DeWalt Hammer Drill
  
• Regular drill bits
  
  
  
• I use these to organize my laptop bag (win surface pro with usb to rj45 adapter, usb to db9 adapter, console cable, lan cable, wifi hotspot, anker battery pack, 500gb usb hard drive etc)
  
• I use these bags to organize everything
  
  and a myriad of other small parts pertaining to surveillance system installs, and screw bits for my drill, and i even have secured walkies for when i have multiple employees on site. plus i have to admit bluetooth headsets for when i have to deal with helpdesks or tech support while i'm on site... did i mention i do a lottttt of contract work. i'm all over the place. every now and then i run into things that this kit can't handle but for the most part i come away with a rather professional look.
  
  sorry for formatting, i've seen plenty of these posts this is the first time i took time to actually look up evrything i've purchased.
  
  Edit: Some formatting. added velcro :P

I got this a couple weeks ago. Installed it onto an ASROCK Z97 Extreme6 motherboard while in a Define C case, 4790K running at stock currently. The only part that was kind of tough for me was getting the fan retention bracket on , as the center fan has to be installed after the cooler is mounted (had to remove my GPU to install the center fan as well).

I didn't find the two mounting screws hard to manage, but I also used a magnetizer to make the included screwdriver's attraction much stronger. I imagine it would have been a good bit harder to install in the case without that. Power cables were easy with some planning.

If this had been installed outside the case, it would have been an absolute breeze.

Temps are fantastic (generally no more than 45-55 C depending on what I'm doing, room temp is generally between 20-22 C). Tested running the fans at max, very quiet! Anything under 80% is pretty much unnoticeable.

This is the permanent solution

I used to get random disk ejections twice a day on average. I tried tightening the screw and keeping the eject button away from surfaces but none of those worked.

Then I tried this. I haven't had a disk ejection in over a month since I did it. It prevented me from having to buy a new ps4 or a new disk drive from sony for ~$150 I think it was. It's a permanent solution. It's a little scary because it seems like you'll break something doing this but it 100% works.

You'll need a torx 8 security driver to open the main cover on the ps4. As well as a box cutting knife.

While you're in there you might as well use one of these to clean out your heat sink/fan after taking out the battery. I recommend you check this out to clean out on how to clean out your heat sink.

There. Two birds with one stone. You fixed your ejection button and you cleaned out your ps4 so now it's quieter and cooler.

ESD bracelets are only really used for formalities; most components are pretty resilient to static these days (however, that's not to say you shouldn't keep one around).

Definitely get your hands on a good multimeter and, if you plan to do board work/repair power supplies, an oscilliscope. A small shopvac with crevice attachments is a must.

THIS is something I could never be without.

Order a ton of cables (vga, hdmi, ethernet, extenders, splitters, adapters, etc) from places like Monoprice. Doing things like throwing in a free HDMI cable with a new graphics card installation every now and then is something that'll put you well above the likes of someplace like the Geek Squad.

One last note: Don't forget software tools. Hiren's Boot CD makes repairs a snap.

Set wear hot hands are the best insulated work gloves I've ever used. You can hold something 400 degrees for a good 10-15 seconds before you start to feel the heat. It's a real leather too, which lasts longer.

If you're going to the UFT you might as well go for the full ratcheting version rather than ape ding that money twice. Personally I don't care for the UFT I use a Gator Grip socket on a short handled rachet with a swiveling head. Then I also carry a Mega Combo Wrench from The Light Source on my keyring.

Most screw drivers you find won't have a tether hole, I assume because you use them in a circular motion. For an all purpose carry look for a XX in 1, that has multiple bits all in one screwdriver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_JsPOCbM5B9DK8 something like this.

Is also recommend looking at multi tools, I use a Gerber Center Drive because it has a bit driver to use real screw bits and I like it a lot.

Another good gift idea are flashlights. I'm always on the lookout for the next great flashlight.

I like a lot of Tekton tools, particularly their "Everybit" set. Great value, and it has a lot of security style bits you would need for disassembling electronics.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2841-Electronic-Screwdriver-135-Piece/dp/B008HYVG6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425168318&sr=8-1&keywords=tekton+every+bit

Other than the everybit set from Tekton, here is a list of tools I would recommend for general use...

• Adjustable Wrenches
  
• Large slip joint pliers
  
• small slip joint pliers or linesman's pliers (or both)
  
• Locking Pliers (Vise Grip)
  
• 8in (or around that size) diagonal cutter
  
• Hex keys
  
• Some sort of heavy duty shears or scissors, (Yellow handle Wiss Snips are a good choice)
  
• Straight claw hammer (personal choice, i think straight claws are more versatile than curved)
  
• A Drill with a plug. If you're going to buy a battery powered drill than you don't cheap out.
  
• Drill bits. Any cheap set should do, as long as it has a 1/8 in and 1/4 inch bit somewhere in there.
  
• A utility knife and a few spare blades (I can accomplish great things with a sharp utility knife)
  
• a small putty knife
  
• a 1 inch wide chisel
  
• Sandpaper (80 grit, 120 grit, and 220 grit.)
  
• Gorrilla Glue
  
• Super glue
  
• A hack saw with a few different blades
  
• Hot glue stick and a lighter (hot glue guns are for people with too much time on their hands)
  
• Blue painters tape (Light duty, leaves no glue residue)
  
• Duct Tape
  
• assortment of screws, nails, fasteners and wall anchors.
  
  I could continue this list forever so I'll just stop here. I have specific brand recommendations for almost all the tools on my list, but I wanted to keep it generic so that you could do your own unbiased research.
  
  In addition, if you really just want to get your hands dirty, you can accomplish a lot with a good quality multi tool. I recommend the Leatherman Wave. The leatherman will set you back $60-$70 but I think they're more than worth the investment. If you buy a multitool, you could probably almost cut my list in half.

It doesn’t use 1/4” bits, but it has onboard but storage... Megapro makes an excellent screwdriver that’s got a really great ratcheting action on it. The grip is also quite comfortable. Megapro is also the OEM of Channellock’s version which is very... Blue.

If you’re dead set on utilizing 1/4” bits, Rolgear makes a silent/smooth ratcheting driver that is a joy to use. My only gripe about it is that the handle is a bit small. There’s also a 6” version available that Reddit isn’t letting me link for some reason. Apart from the longer shaft, the grip is supposed to be more substantial. However, I can’t speak from experience as I don’t own it.

Klein Tools 92906 ProPack 6 Apprentice Tool Set for Trade Professionals (6-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qm5EAbQVA3JFH

That’s a good deal. It has lineman pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, wire strippers, and flat/ Phillips screwdrivers.

Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Cushion Grip Handle, Industrial Strength Bits Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yp5EAbSKE4D2A

This is a good all purpose screwdriver to carry around

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq5EAbTTZ8GYW

This is a non contact voltage tester and it might just save you some pain/your life

Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr5EAbWNKDP5C

You should probably get 2 pairs of these. It’ll help you twist on couplings and stuff

Stanley 33-725 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002PV66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xs5EAbGVWXZDV

A lot of people like these tape measures for their larger claws

Klein Tools 98002BT Bottle Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4u5EAb52FZ742

This will help for when you go home

The hobbyking hexes work well enough on their own. I personally just have this kit, it seems to work for pretty much everything: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2841-Electronic-Screwdriver-135-Piece/dp/B008HYVG6I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1397017140&sr=8-3&keywords=tekton

For a soldering iron, I'd get a Hakko 888 if you have enough money, or a hakko 936 clone if you do not.

All anti-vibration form is not the same. Some is better than others, but there are a lot of variables to take into account.

As for the oscilloscope, I'd say its pretty darn low on the list. A good scope is expensive (~>$300). They are quite easy to learn how to use, and can be quite useful, but I generally wouldn't purchase one if all you wanted to do is build a quadcopter or two.

Prying tools, a nice screwdriver, small spatulas a grounding bracelet and a nice case. $50? Fuck no.

this is just ok. For $60 you can get your self your last toolkit. This is the center piece the last screw driver set you will ever buy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008HYVG6I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

pry tools aren't common but they diabolically cheap: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xpry+tools&_nkw=pry+tools&_sacat=0

grounding bracelets are $5 bucks across the board, and you can get a nice bag for all your tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BFNJES/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A37XNGS4WH2DDR

If you are barely starting gearing up throw in, a wire stripper, a soldering iron with 21G solder, flux, a pump and solder remover.

Some time down the road, throw in an internet cable crimper some internet cable connectors and have the power of fixing any cable at any lan party.

Throw in a magnetic nut and bolt tray, spare 21g wire and your set for life.

If you want you can add, a small axe, flashlight, a pack of batteries, quarter bottle of vodka, and a magnesium rod. It will bring the cost to like $150 2014 dollars but this set will make you the most popular kid in the fallout and will guarantee unlimited bottle caps.

When I was a field tech, mostly working with structured cabling and networking equipment I took the following along with me, some of these things are no longer needed with VOIP phones though:

• Klein Scissors, great for working with cabling. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-2100-7-Electricians-Scissors-Stripping/dp/B000VL03NC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2
  
  
• Klein 11-in-1 screwdriver (I actually had two) http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y
  
  
• Harris puncdown tool ( I think fluke took them over though in quality) the little flip out hook is really useful when doing 66 blocks or panels - something like this http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-D914S-10061810-impact-EverSharp/dp/B000GA6QEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1377872619&sr=1-2&keywords=harris+punch+down+tool (You can get cheaper here, but I burned through the ideal ones pretty fast. The harris ones seemed to last a while).
  
  
• Multimeter (Fluke makes some nice ones)
  
  
• Cable Tester - this will do phone, coax, cat5/6 and isn't crazy priced. You can buy more remotes for it too: http://www.amazon.com/Test-Um-TP300-Resi-Tester/dp/B000J15CEE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872779&sr=8-7&keywords=test+um+cable+tester
  
  
• Tone and probe kit (sends a signal over a cable and you can use the wand to figure out what cable it is. Killer for unmarked cables. You'll probably want to take some jacks and make up your own adapters too) - http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-PRO3000-Tone-Probe/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872864&sr=8-1&keywords=harris+tone
  
  
• Banjo adapter is nice if you don't want to make your own: http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1902-Modular-Adapter/dp/B000099O64/ref=pd_sim_indust_13
  
  
• If you have traditional phone lines to deal with, a buttset (or linemans set) isn't a bad thing to have either.
  
  
• Some coax tools (crimper/stripper)
  
  
• A drywall saw
  
  
• A decent tool bag. I used a generic husky one from lowes.
  
  
• A drill (keep the charger in the bag) and a decent bit set
  
  
• A box of random screws and anchors
  
  
• Bigass roll of velcro
  
  
• Double sided tape
  
  
• ALL the connectors (in bulk)
  
  
• Electrical tape
  
  
• Pull string anytime you fish a conduit or a pain in the ass space, leave a string.
  
  
• Various standard hand tools, spackle isn't bad to have and a putty knife, I had a cheap soldering iron and some basic stuff for it too. Sharpies (a whole pack of them). A level, a tape measure.
  
  
• A label maker! Brother makes a bunch. Label everything!
  
  
• Flashlight. I carried two. One small penlight on myself (streamlight) and one that shared the batteries with my drill.
  
  Obviously this all doesnt go in one bag, but I had mine in my car/truck all the time. It'd be a lot easier in an office.

Well, I have a couple ideas:

• 5 Port USB Charger
  
  
• Good Kitchen Towels. I'm thinking like a dozen of those Tekla towels at Ikea would make for a great gift.
  
  
• A high quality sheet pan
  
  
• A ratcheting multi-bit screwdriver (These are perfect for the kitchen or the "non tool areas" of the house.
  
  
• A Double Decker Couch So everyone could watch TV together and be buddies!

This is step-by-step guide I put together after I saw /u/oldSAP's post. It's pretty easy to do and looks cool when you're done.

Here's the [link] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=cm_sw_su_dp) to the tri-wing screwdriver I used and here's a [video] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEpISFBoGDg) of a disassembly if you want to reference it (it's in German).

I could probably make a video tutorial if there is a lot of interest. Have fun!

Edit: Thank you to whoever gave me gold!

pay attention in class!

http://amzn.com/B0014KMDZ0

It's a pocket screwdriver that would be perfect for leaving in a drawer in the kitchen or in the glove box of the car :)

Thanks for the contest!

EDIT Bah! Well, it use to be an add on item, I guess it's not anymore :/

So how about this cool mini jelly bean storage bin that comes with jelly beans! It just looks awesome!
http://amzn.com/B005OB4XMQ

Do you wrap them around something? And torching the kanthal will help if you find it to be particularly springy. Here is a coil wrapping calculator that will tell you how many wraps you need to reach your desired resistance based on your kanthal gauge and the size of whatever you are wrapping around.

I would suggest investing in a set of screwdrivers like these to wrap on. They are super cheap and wrapping with them is super easy.

1. Get JIS screwdrivers if you don't have them already. The carbs are brass and it's easy to strip the screws.
   https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=13IVJB32CWN3L&keywords=jus+screwdriver&qid=1555384541&s=gateway&sprefix=jis+&sr=8-2
   
   
2. YouTube Shane Conley. He's an automotive teacher and posts some incredibly informative videos
   https://www.youtube.com/user/conleybuilt
   
   
3. for the valves, finding the right feeler gauge was a pain. Here's what I landed on.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039LBDK8/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Here's the shim kit
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UKM6LG/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   measure the shim before you put it in. You will be doing extra work if you replace a shim only to discover it's the wrong size after install when you're double checking everything.
   
   
4. I've got a post around here from me doing shims, I'll try to find it because there's other good stuff in there.
   Found the link, looks like I got most of it. There's other good stuff though.
   https://www.reddit.com/r/SVRiders/comments/an7gab/you_guys_rock/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
   
   
5. drop the radiator before doing shims, it's so much easier.
   
   
6. if you have manual tension adjusters, grab a set of socket extensions and flare nut crows feet
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRJF4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
   
   
7. measure and record everything, draw your own pictures and diagrams
   
   
8. telescoping magnet and good lighting because you WILL drop something, somewhere
   
   
9. check float height since you're in there already but you may not need to clean much on the carbs if there's not a power issue. The bowl gaskets do leak sometimes, might as well replace those. Definitely check the float needle.
   
   
10. when cleaning, remember the needles are brass which is soft. Don't abuse them because they're easy to scratch.
    
    Edit
    
    
11. grab a torque wrench for putting it back together and be very careful not to cross thread, the aluminum in the head is easy to rip out if you over torque or cross thread. Especially the bolts for the valve covers.

If you're looking for a high quality triwing I really like this one from Moody Tools:
affiliate link - non-affiliate link


They also make really nice JIS (Japanese Standard like Phillips) drivers which I find are immensely better than standard Phillips drivers.


For gamebits / Nintendo security bits, I have this set and I really like it. They are made out of a reasonable quality stainless steel.
affiiate link -
non-affiliate link


Full disclosure: If you click on the affiliate link and buy the product I will get a small commission from Amazon to help pay for my childrens' education ;) I personally own the products I linked to.

EDC- Penlight, Pocket Screwdriver, 6" Scale Rule, Folding Utility Knife, Gerber Artifact, Sharpie, Pen, Lighter.

LX- 2@ 8" Crescent Wrench w/ safety lanyard, gloves, diagonal cutters, sharpies/paint pens, wire stripper, 5-n-1 screwdriver, non-contact voltage tester. In my gig bag, I have a meter, allen wrench set, c-7's, among other tools I don't really need to lug around on the subway, but then that 1% of the time they come in handy and I accept hauling them around the other 99% of the time.

CARP- Dewalt 12v Impact Driver/Drill set, 7/16"-1/2"-9/16" deep sockets each on an adapter for for use in the impact driver. Same sizes in speed wrench.

Just picked up one of these thumb drive ratchets it has been super useful for working on unistrut and holding bolts when putting together flats or platforms.

Edit: I forgot. Always have my chalk bag handy.

If you don't mind waiting fast tech is great heres a great rda and good mod for $15

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10012340/2088800-tugboat-styled-18650-mechanical-mod-w-rda-atomizer

Also grab an ohm reader there as well for $5

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10010372/1897900-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter

Here's some kanthal I suggest 26 gauge 25 feet Is about $4

http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/kanthal-a1-resistance-wire

Also pick up a battery for about $8 or two for $14 (worth having a backup battery) use the coupon "lv15" for 15% off

http://lightning-vapes.theshoppad.com/#/product/samsung-inr-18650-25r-battery

I'd suggest this charger for $12

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0096U26QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421740585&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41E7nbJ5btL&ref=plSrch

And these screwdrivers if your local dollar store doesn't have it for $4

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B00009OYGV/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Roughly under $50 for a good setup in my opinion

It's a bit over the budget of 50 bucks. But I have this set (actually mine has a ratchet handle but can't seem to find that). This is probably the best thing I have in my toolbox. I work in wind energy and this thing is a work horse in my house and out in the field. I love it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NI7RRS/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1510208455&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wera+kraftform&dpPl=1&dpID=41aFHGJxLRL&ref=plSrch

I've painted Xbox one controllers. You could always attempt to tighten up the screws a little with a T8 Security but that honestly probably won't do much. These controllers are assembled and fit together much better than the Xbox 360 controllers.

If you're going to take it apart or tighten it up. One of the screws is under the sticker under the batteries. Make sure you peel that off gently if you're going to replace it, because opening a controller up does void your warranty.

I'd just chalk it up to it being cheaper plastic than the 360 controller.

Here's the latest controller I've done.

This is a great low tech solution, just keep in mind the head will break if you use it too much, and this completely bypasses the cons of making it in the first place.

Actually buying a trihead is always the best solution (I have 4 of them), especially since they sell for almost nothing on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Tri-wing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-Gamecube-Gameboy/dp/B000S6AG9G/

That's one I bought for a buck and a half, but it took almost a month to arrive, haha. They ship it all the way from China. If you spend another $1.50 (gasp!) you can get it with Prime and in 2 days shipping though.

http://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/

tl;dr I highly encourage people not to use the melted plastic method.

Klein just came out with this beautiful new hvac 6-1. It's perfect for diagnostics and light maintenance when you don't want to lug a bag, and it's so new I doubt he has one. I also love these.

EDIT: I totally linked the wrong tool in the first link. THIS is the beautiful tool I meant to share, although the first is very handy too.

There's actually two; this one has a similar handle to yours (same size), but the shaft doesn't come out and it doesn't lock bits in place. I like this one; it does the job.

But my favorite is this one and the 4" shaft that came with yours (I have the regular green and black version of yours). I love that it keeps bits locked in place and is still magnetic, and if I don't need to use the longer shaft, the built in holder makes it kind of a stubby driver. The handle is a bit smaller since there's no bit storage, but f3eels more solid than the versions with bit storage in the handle.

Wera is worth every penny.

I own two pro controllers and I love them for Wind Waker, Pikmin, and Tropical Freeze. I'm pretty sure it'll be a great substitute for Gamecube controllers. The color scheme is a bit of an issue, as there currently exist only 2 colors, black and white, and if you want every controller to be different, the only thing you can do (which I highly reccomend) is to take the controllers apart with a fancy nintendo screwdriver and trade the buttons around.

I've been eyeing those AirConsoles for a while. A good flashlight is great. That screwdriver someone mentioned was cool.

I have this one and like it a lot.

Folks have mentioned the smaller Leatherman tools here. I liked this one so much, I bought one for both of my key rings.

The Klein 11-in-1 Screwdriver is an amazing companion. The torx bit is perfect for the screws in HP desktops and the phillips bits have good bite.

Otherwise, you pretty much have that I would carry myself. I would add what /u/bitbucket87 mentioned for sure.

I bought a set at my local hardware store. They're the doitbest brand precision screwdrivers. http://www.amazon.com/5-Piece-Best-Precision-Screwdriver-SCREWDRIVER/dp/B000HE89Z2
They've been great for the past few years I've had them. The star versions of those aren't so hot though.. I've ruined 2 of the T5 drivers working on firearms and RC cars. The rest of them have stood up to some pretty serious abuse though.

I've had these before, but they are kind of small to hold onto when turning larger screws: http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-052-6-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00009OYGV/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1393730634&sr=1-2&keywords=Precision+Screwdriver
They work fine though IME.

If you want to buy the best you can get, Klein tools makes a mighty fine set of screwdrivers. They're pretty expensive though. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-85614-Piece-Electronic-Screwdriver/dp/B0076RWZMQ/ref=sr_1_37?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1393730830&sr=1-37&keywords=Precision+Screwdriver

Not sure about that one in particular but my friend has one of these and swears by it:

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427291911&sr=8-1&keywords=klein+screwdriver

It's a pretty neat design and is quick to switch the drivers. It's also a Klein so it should be high quality.

Have done exactly what you are asking.

I am typing this on the lowest end 9570 (refurbished Dell Outlet) with an upgraded SSD and 97whr battery.

These are the exact parts and where I got them:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EBK-6GTPY-Battery-Compatible-Dell-XPS-15-9560-9570-Precision-5520-M5520-Replacement-5XJ28-5041C-H5H20-5D91C-Laptop-6-Cell-11-4V-97Wh-12-Months-Warran/987434458

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QH5KW1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBX6TY

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGZEVHU

​

You will have to take out the HDD to put in the bigger battery. You may also need to change BIOS settings to get the best SSD performance.

​

You will need a special screw driver to open the case, use the biggest one that will fit and remember rigthty tightly lefty lucey. :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O

​

Look online for how to open the case. Don't forget the two Phillips in the middle under the magnetic plate.

​

Battery life is outstanding.

There is nothing I know of to protect your existing thumbsticks but you can easily replace them. By buying a triwing screwdriver and replacement thumbsticks from amazon or ebay.

Triwing Screwdriver : https://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467355222&sr=8-2&keywords=triwing+screwdriver+gamecube

Replacement Thumbsticks : https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Analogue-Thumbstick-Gamecube-Controller/dp/B01D0Y63NU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467354830&sr=8-3&keywords=gamecube+sticks

Happy Cubing!

Malthris

If you want a bit type, id recommend starting with this 23 Pc Husky ratcheting precision set which covers every computer/laptop need I've run into. Or this TEKTON Everybit set.

For individual type I recommend the TEKTON Brand. Here is a set that has the PH0-PH2 like you need and some other flat heads. Torx Here, Nut Drivers Here. Though you can filter the nut drivers into SAE/Metric or buy by individual need.

If you really need/want magnetic tips, sub that screwdriver set i sent with something like this Cause magnetic tips are handy. Another brand I highly recommend is Milwaukee for both insulated and non-insulated drivers

Take a look at Pedro's tools. They are a little cheaper than Park, but are excellent tools. As /u/singlejeff said, get some basic stuff, but hit up your local co-op for the more expensive tools.

Here is a solid start:

Park Tool ST-3 I use this thing constantly, and Pedro's doesn't have a similar tool.

Pedro's Y Wrench Go ahead and get both the 4,5,6 and 2,2.5,3.

These three tools live in my apron. Absolute go-to tools.

Additionally, get an adjustable wrench(I love my Klein Tools wrench) a set of JIS Screwdrivers so you don't strip out your screw heads,

A good cable cutter

Some important chain tools are the Park CT-3.2 and also pick up the Park MLP 1.2 and CC-3.2(which imo is the absolute easies chain wear checker).

I would also suggest a L Hex wrench set you can pick em up cheaper at Lowes or whatever, but critical for getting stuck pedals off, speaking of which, a Pedal Wrench.

Finally a crank puller you really don't have to go expensive on this thing. I see em as disposable, because as soon as I see thread wear, I shit can em. I stripped out a vintage Stronglight crank and a C Record crankset using a worn out crank puller. No bueno.

All this shit will be expensive, but if bought over time, you will have a solid set of tools eventually. These are my favorite tools, I am sure others have their opinions.

Ceramic tweezers and wire cutters, I like these and these kind I got a three pack of different kinds but it's no longer available. For cotton this will last forever. if you don't already have screwdrivers and/or bits to wrap your coils something like this works great. For roundwire something like this will last till the end of time.

After a recent (semi-) failure of my normal EDC, I decided to upgrade my plier-ing options. Found this little number on AmazonKnipex Miniature Pliers with some great reviews and went for it.

It is quite a bit smaller than I thought it would be, but it seems very sturdy. At its widest it can grip a normal plastic bottle lid, which is quite the range to be honest for such a small tool.

It fits perfectly in my Maxpedition Micro case.

I also threw in a Stanley Pen Screwdriver to the basket, cause why not.

Here are some suggestions of good brands but substitute with lesser brand as you see fitted:

• USA made 17 oz hammer: [Vaughan] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vaughan-Stealth-17-oz-Solid-Steel-Milled-Face-Rip-Hammer-15-5-in-steel-handle-and-magnetic-nail-start-RS17ML/206936857)
  
• USA made Nubla deadblow: 2lbs
  
• Germany made [7] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-7-in-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-180/100668967) and [10] ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-10-in-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-250/100668982) in knipex cobra
  
• ratcheting screwdriver: wera [Megapro] (https://www.amazon.com/Megapro-211R2C36RD-13-Ratcheting-Driver/dp/B004VJY1EC/), Williams ...
  
• pry bars: [USA made craftsman] (https://m.sears.com/Craftsman-25-IN.-PRY-BAR-WITH-STRIKE-CAP/p-00943383000P), [USA vaughan] (https://www.amazon.com/Vaughan-B215-15-Inch-Original-SuperBar/dp/B00002N5VN/ref=asc_df_B00002N5VN/)
  
• Japan made [Engineer scissors] (https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PH-55-Tetsuwan-Scissors-GT/dp/B005QTRJA4/)
  
• torpedo level, 24in, 48in: USA made or [Stabila] ( https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/stabila-1889-4pc-level-set)
  
• metric/sae wrenches or ratcheting: [tekton] (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Combination-Wrench-Keeper-Metric/dp/B00OXUPMGK/), gearwrench or better USA made SK
  
• 6 in squares: [swanson] (https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-Tool-S0101CB-Square-Combination/dp/B00SOVRPXW/)
  
• auto lock 25ft tape measure: [Milwaukee] ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-25-ft-Compact-Auto-Lock-Tape-Measure-48-22-6825/304616955), [fatmax] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-FATMAX-25-ft-x-1-1-4-in-Auto-Lock-Tape-Measure-FMHT33338L/204624581)
  
• punches: [dasco] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-Pin-Punch-Set-6-Piece-22/100155966)
  
• chisel
  
• clamps: bessey bar clamps, quick clamps like [irwin] (https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-4-Pack-Assorted-Mini-One-Handed-Bar-Clamp/1000914800) , [kreg clamps] (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-3-in-Wood-Project-Clamp-3-in-Handscrew-Clamp/1000105667)
  
• foldable saw horses like [these] (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-2-Pack-27-25-in-W-x-32-in-H-Plastic-Saw-Horse-1000-lbs-Capacity/50333339)
  
  power tool, cordless is preferred. Some brands to consider, makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Bosch:
  
  
• drill driver/impact
  
• circular saw
  
• jig saw
  
• Reciprocating saw
  
• Oscillating multi tool
  
• random orbit sander
  
• 1/4 and /or 1/2 in router

You get what you pay for. I wouldn't touch a $40 cable tester, much less a tool kit.
You can spend money wisely, like buying a Klein 10-in-1 or 11-in-1 for PSTN/POTS outside work.
For precision drivers, Wiha is what you want- this is a nice portable set which works on the bench as well.
For crimpers I currently use an Ideal Telemaster but will be switching to an Amp. For cable testing I use a Fluke Cable IQ or LinkRunner.
Your tools need to be better quality that the amateurs that banged on it before you. You definitely don't want crappy tools to be holding you back.
If you are worried about theft, sign the tools out to individual techs and make them responsible for them. Part of the sign-out process should be an authorization to withhold the replacement cost from their paycheck if they lose anything.

I don't know if this ships to DK but the jeweler's screwdriver set will be something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G

Rubber screws dampen noise from vibrating fans and are awesome.

Get two Philips head screwdrivers, one #1 and one #2 sized. The #1 will be smaller. Flathead size doesn't matter as much, 1/8"-1/4" (3.175mm to 6.35mm) head width should do. Jeweler's kit will cover the rest.

Also look into some magnetic screw trays they are cheap and very useful for keeping things organized.

This guy is in all of my bags. I also carry a North Face Surge 2, it's pretty solid, has a lot of pockets, the laptop pouch is lined so my device never gets scratched up. I have some velcro cable ties that have been very useful at times, but I also go into a lot of rack rooms still.

I agree with the comfy shoes, and I also carry some hand sani and wipes.

Its a bit of a stretch... but Heres my optics beacause EVERYONE should have one...

And Here is a mechanical of sorts. Its atoy to me, because I want to take apart old games and systems and turn them into other things... like lunchboxes and external hard drives. <3 So yeah, its a toy.

Thanks for the contest!!!

Boxer - Boxer 30 Pcs 4mm Precision Screwdriver Set - PK30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FGQ1G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O..YzbM6B48CZ

I've had this kit for years since my day job was repairing computers. It hasn't failed me yet.

If you want a much nicer set wiha is one of the best brands when it comes to precision screwdrivers

Wiha 75992 System 4 Precision Interchangeable Bit Set, Torx, Slotted, Phillips, Hex Inch, ESD Safe Precision Handle, 27 Piece In Compact Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qbaZzbCKNSP8S

Yes but you have to actually open it up with screwdrivers. You need a T8 security screwdriver like this one Leegoal T8 Tamper Proof Screwdriver Security Torx Driver for XBOX 360 Wired and Wireless Controller Or PS3 Slim Disassembly CR-V Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9LYjybS95AE3F

Dude, you should see my Amazon wish list......full of Wera stuff, but yeah, my wallet cringes each time I start browsing Wera. Really want these and this and these (although I have the same set, just with less bits) and these and this and this to put it all in..........that's like half the wishlist 😆

Flitz Metal Polish for the bore; Break Free CLP for the inside of the gun; and FrogLube paste as an exterior protectant.

On my Glocks I usually use one of THESE. (I throw the slotted tip and the jag away, and use only the brush with cotton patches (occasionally) wrapped around it.)

NOTHING CLEANS A PISTOL BARREL, ABOVE 22 CALIBER, FASTER OR BETTER - NOTHING!

I, also, keep a carbon steel, 'Squirrel Daddy' Miniature Glock Tool in the handle along with a thin-bladed, narrow profile screwdriver.

I carry; so I clean my Glock BEFORE I leave the range and won't holster a dirty pistol that hasn't also been function checked. I've been working on guns for 50 + years; and I use them hard. At one time, or another I've seen it all. These guys who like to brag and post crap about (almost) never cleaning their Glocks are just plain IGF idiots; and I'm sure that Smyrna would tell them so, too.

Neither is there any good or necessary reason, whatsoever, to leave the Loctite C5-A Anti-Seize Compound (the, 'gold-colored grease') inside your Glock after you've purchased it and brought it home. The C5-A is there to: (1) Protect a Glock from corrosion between the dissimilar metals of the slide and connector tab during PROLONGED distributor storage, and (2) guarantee that a new, possibly uncleaned, and unlubricated Glock pistol will go, 'Bang!' the first time it is used.

Once the Glock pistol is put into service and receives regular maintenance you no longer need the grease - Period.

I have the same issue and so do many others. It hasn't impacted game play but you are right, it is annoying. Is your console still under warranty or did you buy the extended one by chance? I have sent a couple of mine in when they got to the point where the joystick felt a little too loose for my liking and they sent me free replacements, no questions asked.

If not, there are several tutorials on Youtube that show you step-by-step how to open up the controller and fix the problem. You do need a special screwdriver, though. This is the one I bought to have on hand in case I ever needed it in the future. The description of the product says Xbox 360 but several people have mentioned in the product reviews that it works on the Xbox One as well.

The R button failing is a fairly common issue with the earlier 3ds models. I have one of the smoke black ( I suppose ) models and had to open it up and replace the switch in mine.

They are very easily replaced and fairly cheap as well. Here is a set from amazon. Go ahead and watch a tutorial on youtube first if you're hesitant. Oh you'll probably need a tri-wing screwdriver. Most Nintendo stuff requires one. Here is another amazon link to a cheap driver.

Good luck and have fun!

It's the supremely awesome Wera bit driver- its actually got a spring loaded compartment to store your bits. Fits a full set of T5-T10 bits, pretty much all you need to service the majority of knives you'll come across. The bits I use are from Wiha though

Oh man, I had no clue the screws were different. Good heads up!
More stuff to research :)
Quick Amazon search turned up this set:
JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set (New 3rd. Gen) (Japan Import)


And sounds like a bearing kit is easiest to put in now, will definitely add this upgrade to the list.

I don't carry this on my person, usually just leave in my work bag until needed but this might fit the bill for you

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001HSNHM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465503674&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=wera&dpPl=1&dpID=418t39btJpL&ref=plSrch

It's a wera kraftform kompakt. Hold 6 bits in the handle and can extend for better reach. Fairly compact for what is essentially a full size screwdriver. Comes with a nice belt pouch too. I keep a knipex 6" water pump pliers snugly stashed in the belt loop and it's been a very functional tool kit for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4KP4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465504155&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=knipex+cobra+pliers+6&dpPl=1&dpID=41HdNhgMdeL&ref=plSrch
http://i.imgur.com/sOIrsn7.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rawQLDC.jpg

You my friend are my spirit brother when it comes to tools. 27yrs in trade and I've come to similar conclusions that you have.

For the lineman pliers, needlenose, and diagonal pliers I still use Klein journeyman or put the tenite handles on them.

Wera screwdrivers are excellent (Wiha and Felo too) and I like their multi screwdriver.

I have a fluke 87 , as well as a fluke T5, and an ideal clamp meter.

The fatmax tape measures have the best hold out. Every time I try another tape measure (currently using a Milwaukee) I end up wishing for another fatmax.

I use the greenlee no dog level and their torpedo level.

I use the 20oz black and red HD hammer (not sure of the brand name)

I do have a Lennox hacksaw frame but I always have a blade with tape for tight areas.

I use a boxer set and love it.

Strong magnetics, lots of heads, nicely organized, and I've never had an issue with it getting it into tight spots.

I mean what are you even using that Milwaukee thing for?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-6-in-5-TPI-AX-Carbide-Teeth-Demo-Nail-Embedded-Wood-Cutting-SAWZALL-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-1-Pack-48-00-5221/300122018

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-6-in-24-Teeth-per-in-Thin-Metal-Cutting-SAWZALL-Reciprocating-Saw-Blades-5-Pack-48-00-5186/100050151



The saw zall blade isn't as efficient as the the actual rock knife but it's close enough and it means you get to carry 1 less thing. In this case maybe 2


Edit:. Replace all those screwdrivers with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NI7RRS/ref=psdc_553336_t3_B001HSNHM2

All the but have a long shank so it will fit anywhere. You can take out the shit you won't use and it will be lighter and take less room

The necessities are:

• Precision screwdriver set (to use as mandrels)
  
• Organic Cotton Pads (easier to work with than ball cotton)
  
• Kanthal (in assorted gauges)
  
• Ohm Reader (EDIT--added per V's reminder. There may be a better sauce for these, though).
  
  I'd recommend 26, 28, and 0.8x0.1 ribbon to start. That gives you a lot of options for building. You'll notice the first two links are add-on items on Amazon, so you'll have to buy $25 worth of wire, wire cutters, tweezers, or just add it to some other amazon order you're making.

Sorry for the double up comment, but if you're really interested in a kit, here are each of the tool's they'll give you

Feeler Gauge

Allen Wrench Set (this is actually more comprehensive)

64th inch ruler

Straight Edge (For judging neck relief/bow)

Mini Screwdrivers

String Winder (with wire cutter)

Compare to $60 dollars

$100:(http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Essential_Tool_Kits/Basic_Setup_Kit.html)


This actually seems like a solid deal, but you can get all of these at a hardware store for less and not pay for shipping and wait around for it.

I would add that the soldering iron must have a pointy tip! I've been trying to replace my modules, but the stock tips are huge (for the intended work) I could not reach the spots to melt.
The one i'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3SG6UQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Also, be sure that the Torx are Security Torx! They have the hollow star shape and also an inside round tip. https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=pd_sbs_469_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004YUB6ZU&pd_rd_r=Z51XSKAB8PX325052JVR&pd_rd_w=jAo1O&pd_rd_wg=DYMkI&psc=1&refRID=Z51XSKAB8PX325052JVR

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491577769&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=precision+screwdriver+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41josrE03YL&ref=plSrch

Yeah I was going to go with the EK Vardar fans, I'm looking to keeps temps as low as possible mostly, but less sound would be nice as well. Would the EK Vardar 1450rpm pair well with a EK PE rad?

Wera makes one with a longer extension. I have one, its a very nice tool.


The Gearwrench ratcheting screwdriver sets are pretty nice and versatile also - similar construction to the tool truck brands with a squarish handle. Very rugged and durable. The whole set isn't much more expensive than the single Wera driver...

I've had the stanley fatmax racheting screwdriver for years now and it works great. I replaced the bits that came with it with higher carbon bits (much better since they don't dull as quickly). If there's one minor annoyance it's that the mechanism for switching directions is near the shaft of the screw driver, so every once in a while i'll accidentally turn it. But all in all, it's pretty minor, and I really like this screwdriver.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-69-189-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B002I3TDP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457891231&sr=8-1&keywords=stanley+ratcheting+screwdriver

I suggest a driver with a shaft long and thin enough to reach the screw in case it is recessed in a narrow hole.

Best bet is to get a smallish driver with a thin shaft 2-4 inches in length like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=pd_sim_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004YUB6ZU&pd_rd_r=ec303680-c4b4-11e8-82da-57b640a56e37&pd_rd_w=La8sL&pd_rd_wg=df6ft&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=56838e6b-66d4-41e0-a762-743f1a1a628a&pf_rd_r=66XG0SR5G3355VAA3Q16&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=66XG0SR5G3355VAA3Q16

Other options like those multi-bit driver sets are great for most cases but those bits may be too short or too fat to handle some situations. Of course you can get a set of long, thin bits as well but that's likely too much tooling than you want.

I own the ifixit set and have a ton of mileage on it, but I also purchased the Nanch Precision set for less and consider it a superior product, though both are good.

I really wanted the set I found because they were all long and it had the torx and Allen bits to go in my truck box. I find that when the bit only sticks out of the thick poorly made holder a small amount it can really get in the way when there are close tolerances or if a screw is recessed in a hole.

At home I have sets of this kind of thing http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-Chromium-Vanadium-Steel-Screwdriver/dp/B007NLPUXG , but filling up two drawers with those in my truck box and fitting everything else isn't doable.

http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver-33-Pieces/dp/B000NI7RRS/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1404427670&sr=1-2&keywords=wera+kraftform this is the wera I mentioned and probably the best solution, but I just didn't want to spend that much this week.

Save your money and keep the original, take it out, clean it up well and use a pin or needle to bend the pins back so they are all uniform. The 72 pin that came with the NES is higher quality than the replacements are. While your in there disable the 10NES lockout chip and almost every game will work the first time. There are several tutorials on how to do both of these on youtube or google. Additionally your going to want to clean up your dirty games before putting them in a clean 72 pin connector. Some buy a cheap bit that will eventually be lost but for about the same price can buy [this set from amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BEZY2I6/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and work on most oldschool consoles / games. :)

https://3ds.hacks.guide/installing-boot9strap-(ntrboot)
According to the guide I need a magnet to trigger sleep mode, but I'm concerned about my magnet being too strong or too weak.
Here are a few I'm considering
https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527330981&sr=8-4&keywords=magnet
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527331185&sr=1-2&keywords=magnetizer
https://www.amazon.com/XLMAGNET-Countersunk-Mounting-Building-Scientific/dp/B077GNVYZR/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527331163&sr=1-9&keywords=fridge+magnet
I'm largely looking for one under 15$, and one that won't break my 3ds, or rather my New 2DS.
If anyone has any general tips or a range of magnet strength, please provide those too.

It was not hard to build the mobo into the case, just keep on top of your cable management. If you can, remove the HD sled first (unless of course you need it). All the screws come with the products that I purchased, yes. Be careful about stripping screws, just use the proper driver (no power!). I believe I have 8 standoffs mounted + 1 nub that comes pre-attached to the case. I probably watched ALL the youtube videos, lol. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=fractal+meshify+c+build

Things I made sure I had for my build before all my parts showed up.

1. Anti Static wristband
   
   
2. Computer screw set I did end up stripping a screw or two and had to replace them from here.
   
   
3. Nice microfiber cloth for the tempered glass leave the plastic on the glass during the build, it will get loaded with finger prints.
   
   
4. Screwdriver set you probably already have this, I just wanted magnetic ones.
   
   
5. Fine screwdriver I used this A LOT.
   
   
6. Magnetic screw tray
   
   I got most of these items as a tip from a youtube video but I can not find it at the moment. Yeah, definitely let me know if you need help with anything or just want me to show you "how I did it". The manual for the mother board has the header LEDs defined on there, there is one dead spot (no pin) in the top right, obviously dont use that one but also don't use the one below it even though its labeled ground for the reset button (thats the only issue I had).

Amaretto sour: you can easily make this yourself at home, all i use is Amaretto mix and some kind of lemon lime soda such as Sprite or 7-Up. Just pour in one can of the pop, and add a dash of amaretto as desired.

[This] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enSYlCEz5VI) is a great movie clip

[Item] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KMDZ0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=18RE9XEW400UU&coliid=I2Y8T1C7PHN7A&psc=1)

Bottoms up!

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-69-189-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B002I3TDP0/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1451685487&sr=1-2&keywords=ratcheting+screwdriver

Is this what I'm looking for? Like does it have the same functions of the one that Linus uses? Like u can turn the nozzle of the screwdriver or turn the whole thing, makes that ratcheting noise Etc...
Thanks for the reply!

I've got the snap on version, but from a YouTube video comparing the Williams (also a snap on brand), they're pretty close in quality and cheaper.
JH Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002NI1LZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.pbQzbTPG4YYS

Edit; if the shank is removable like the snap on ones, gearwrench makes extra accessories for it. I got a 1/4 drive socket extension and flex extension for mine.

Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Industrial Strength Bits, Cushion Grip Handle Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S.9XBbS1RP5HN

At half the price, they are most definitely worth it!

I keep one of these in my kit, my friend has a picquic and it's nice however I find if I'm working on something that requires me to switch bits back and forth the Klein is better.
Klein Tools 32500 11-in-1 Screwdriver/Nut Driver with Cushion Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_TSy5wbW1531PA

an assortment of small philips heads and some smaller torx heads would be your best bet. You can find an inexpensive set on amazon, e.g.: http://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-4mm-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B000FGQ1G6/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1324271293&sr=1-1

as for the paste, arctic silver 5 would be a good bet.

I like the offerings from Megapro. Made in the USA (unlike the latest from Klein, which are increasingly made in China) with a lifetime warranty. The 15-in-1 is the standard, but the ratcheting model is great too.

Something like this is nice to have. http://www.amazon.com/Repair-Opening-Screwdriver-iPhone-Samsung/dp/B00GYO7OT6/

To be honest, I just used a little flat head screw driver. Just be gentle.

I have a kit kind of like this one. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G Think I picked up a generic one from the dollar store/walmart.

Buy this screwdriver immediately. A friend of mine gave me one when I bought my house and I use it religiously. Especially when it is something small like this and I don't feel like getting out my drill and drill bits. It is by far my favorite and most used tool as a home owner.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Industrial-Klein-Tools-32500/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536541144&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=klein+6+in+1+screwdriver&psc=1

My Essentials for an Electrics call

Ultimate Focus Tool: http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/224936-StageJunk-7280-RT/

Adjustable C Wrench: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-Double-Speed-Adjustable-Wrench-96596/203467743

Screwdriver (multi bit) Similar to this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NM0LBGK3Q7YA&coliid=I3TJ4V0YRRN22T

Belt Tether: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007H6DRGO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Leatherman Surge: http://www.leatherman.com/surge-3.html#start=2

Mini Mag Light: http://www.amazon.com/MAGLITE-M2A016-Mini-Flashlight-Black/dp/B00002N6SL%3Fpsc%3D1%26SubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-ffsb-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB00002N6SL

Gloves Preferably leather for heat protection when focusing, good dexterity for tying knots and I generally like a Velcro latch on the wrist to give a snug fit

It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):

• Small screwdriver set OR Hex set OR a combo set. Which one will depend on the RBA you get, but eventually you'll probably find yourself with ones that have Phillips and Hex screws.
  
• Butane Torch. You can get this same one on Fasttech for $4 if you don't mind the shipping time.
  
• Wire cutters, either full size or micros
  
• Pliers, I also have a set of channel locks accessible, but not in my normal kit, mainly to try and get my Bombshell Stinger apart
  
• A generic desk light or something like helping hands can save a lot of headaches.
  
• Cheap multimeters can be found from $5 - $20
  
• Exacto knife because knives always come in handy at some point (rule #9)
  
  Other generic stuff:
  
  
• Toothpicks (great for wrapping coils around)
  
• Cotton swabs, cotton balls and paper towels
  
• Bic lighter
  
• Scissors for cutting wick (I use the wire cutters, but if you have micros, 3mm wick might get messy/frayed)

I used to do the pen thing but it only works like half the time. I just bit the bullet and bought these . They are not to expensive and nice to have around if you ever want to open any sega / nintendo stuff

Same principle, but all of our techs use one of these.

They work rather well, especially on the smaller tools. Bonus demagnetizer.

There's a user on Planet VB called RunnerPack. He does the permanent solder fix for displays and does a excellent job from my experience, and for fairly cheap too, $10/display unit if I remember correctly. Just hit him up a message over there and you'll be golden (or red, I should say :P).

Just so you know, you are going to have to open up the Virtual Boy yourself, so you'll need a screwdriver for the security bits (the 4.5mm ones in particular). You can find them on amazon for fairly cheap.

Edit: extra junk.

The only tools that I had available when I built my PC was a six-piece Stanley set. Luckily for me, building a PC doesn't require much more than a screwdriver. As such, the most useful and only tool for me when building my PC was a precision screwdriver.

Due to the fact that my PC is still very new, I have not yet experienced any need to maintain anything.

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Kompakt-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B004VMWYCU/ another great deal... scroll below for the other buying options. KK 27 RA is on sale for $28.96

This TEKTON kits is a bit cheaper and has better case. Lifetime warranty but doesn't include the pry tools, those are super cheap though.

I was lucky enough to find one of these. Probably one of the best sets I've ever used.

I've taken apart my 3DS to repair broken parts a couple of times now, and if there's anything I've learned it's that the L and R buttons are very simple to remove/replace. Whilst I'm pretty sure that taking apart the 3DS yourself voids the warranty, doing it by hand can save you a lot of money since the Nintendo repair can cost rather silly amounts of cash.

If you feel confident that you can remember what goes where and put the 3DS back together again afterwards (Which is very simple) then the easiest way to do it is to buy a small Tri-Headed screwdriver to unscrew the screws that Nintendo uses. They're very cheap and can be found on amazon here:

http://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405183226&sr=1-1&keywords=tri-wing+screwdriver

The next step is to open the back of your 3DS, making sure not to lose the screws. Since the shoulder buttons are merely slotted onto the board, they should come off easily. They consist of the button and a small metal spring. You can take a look at the broken button this way to see if it is truly broken or just jamming.

If it's jamming: Problem solved! Putting it back in place how it should be will solve it (In order to see how it "Should" be positioned, just look at the other button).

If it's broken: You can easily find a replacement button from parts dealers on e-bay or other websites. You may only be able to find replacement shoulder buttons that come with the trigger also, but usually it's still a darn sight cheaper than paying Nintendo to do it for you.

You can watch like 6 videos and know how to build a computer. Once you know what fits where, it's like putting together legos. These screwdrivers make everything way easier too.

$20 or less: a good pen light or wowtac headlamp.
https://www.amazon.com/LUMINTOP-Penlight-Rendering-Diagnostic-Waterproof/dp/B07C9XP692/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=iyp365+lumintop&qid=1574031374&sprefix=iyp&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Headlight-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Headlamps/dp/B071HW5XQH/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=wowtac+headlamp&qid=1574031445&sprefix=wowtac+headlamp&sr=8-2

Edit: looks like these are priced a bit over $20 currently, but if you search around, you can get them for $20.



$50 or less: I like to give the wera multi bit screwdriver and a makita bit set.

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05051024001-Kraftform-BithoCSLDing-Screwdriver/dp/B001HSNHM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wera+multibit+screwdriver&qid=1574031498&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=wera+multi&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-B-46919-Impact-Torsion-Insert/dp/B0042CF03Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?keywords=makita+bit+set&qid=1574031539&sr=8-10




$100 or less: I've got nothing for this one, possibly a battery for the persons choice of cordless tools?

That's sounds great for a two-legger (forgive me if I assume too much).
I'm pretty serious about my socket set though. I carry [this](Craftsman 58 PC Universal MAX AXESS Mechanics Tool Set (Inch/Metric) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D4QI7XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WKytybJPF57EE) strapped to the back of my power chair.
And I carry these as well. Along with a Leatherman and one of [these](Stanley 66-344 4-in-1 Pocket Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KMDZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3PytybZ26WCBS)

Edit; unfortunately I don't reddit hard enough to know how to fix those links. Sorry.

It's a set but I've got one of these and I love it. It has all of the bits you would ever need.

Other than that, I've found these:

• https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-DR-07-Twin-Wrench-Driver/dp/B001YHA56M
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-344-4-in-1-Pocket-Screwdriver/dp/B0014KMDZ0
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05051024001-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver/dp/B001HSNHM2

Recommend using This site to help you make your determination if you are paying the correct amount for a game, instead of looking on ebay. also I recommend you get One of these If you wanna keep going for the higher end stuff. Before you shell out the cash you may want to ask to open the cart up and see the board, then compare it to images online. shelling out $200 for Mega Man X3 or Castlevania Dracula X only to realize it is a reproduction would feel really shitty.

You got some solid titles. Do you have many retro stores in your area?

Size 0 Phillips screwdriver. You can pick up one at many home improvement stores or get a set from Amazon kinda like these

You crafted a screwdriver by melting a plastic pen? You can just buy a triwing for like $3...

EDIT: I have this one and it works beautifully.

I had a really similar sequence of events happen on one of my earlier MacBooks (fan was noisy --> then ran at strangely low speeds, yet high CPU temps --> fan failure). In pretty short order (2-3 days) the fan stopped working entirely (fan speed dropped to 0, CPU temp went sky-high).

• Keep a close eye on your fan speed/CPU temp over the next few days because I anticipate that it WILL fail!
  
• WHEN the fan does finally fail (which I totally expect it will), shut down your computer ASAP as the CPU could fry itself without a properly functioning fan
  
• Before your fan fails, look into fixing it yourself. It's really a pretty simple fix.
  
  

1. http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2009+Fan/1338/1 (intructions)
   
2. http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-66-039-Jewelers-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B00002X29G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1373462284&sr=8-4&keywords=stanley+mini+screwdriver (tools; a must-have for any laptop DIYer)
   
3. http://www.ifixit.com/MacBook-Parts/MacBook-Unibody-Model-No-A1278-MBP-13-Inch-Mid-2009-Unibody-Fan/IF160-017?utm_source=ifixit_guide&utm_medium=guide_intro&utm_content=required_items&utm_term=macbook_pro_13%22_unibody_mid_2009 (parts)
   
   Note: I made the assumption that you have a 13" MBP, which may more may not be correct. Obviously the fan can probably be found for a lot cheaper somewhere else, but if you're at all nervous about compatibility/ordering the wrong part, ifixit.com has some pretty great guides and descent replacement parts. PM me if you have any questions (I've done a lot of MacBook/MacBook Pro micro repairs on my machines over the past 7 years)

Yeah I used a t5 and it worked perfectly. I have this set

I used a really small drill bit that could fit into the screws and was able to unscrew it easily. Then I took it apart and I looked at the analog sticks and how they were soldered. Drifting is due to the potentiometer thinking there was an input. So I just resoldered all of the potentiometer leads, put it back together and it works like a charm.

Didn't cost me a thing. However I did later on find the right type of screwdriver needed to remove the screws.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004YUB6ZU?pc_redir=1409364451&robot_redir=1

I'm about a year into home ownership and have been all about the improvement projects since moving in. Here's what I've found essential --

• Shopvac
  
• Wirenuts
  
• Zipties
  
• Multihead ratcheting screwdriver [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VJY1EC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]
  
• Painters tool
  
• 6inch Spackle Knife
  
• Small cheap Mitre box
  
• Pliers
  
• Caulk [and caulk gun]
  
• Irwin Quick Clamps
  
  Obviously you can go on and on, but I've found these things out of a lot more that I've purchased most useful.
  
  
  

This would be extremely useful because it would save me space in my EDC bag.

Dude I went for these http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKNND-Security-Screwdriver/dp/B00BEZY2I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380913239&sr=8-1&keywords=nintendo+bit

Under ten bucks and they work perfectly and are very solid!

I have liked this Tekton 27 piece set for a while. I mostly like it because it comes with both size pentalobe bits, if you're doing any apple repair stuff. It comes as part of their 135 piece set too, which I think is a good deal. Reach isn't very long is the only real downside.

If you want, you could buy one of these and you can magnetize them - its a excellent tool :-)

I like Wiha like everyone else has been say, but I've also liked my precision set from Boxer for some of the goofier torx etc bits.

I have this and the ratcheting version for work. The only difference is that the one in the video actually locks the bits in. Amazing screwdrivers and they're worth the premium price.

For a way cheaper option I found a Stanley driver, or this one.

Nanch tools on amazon have been awesome for me. Even hold on up to Spydercos loctite

NANCH Precision Screwdriver Set with 22 Magnetic Bits for all Electronics Devices,23-piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3jxIybS1PB0TZ

For anyone that’s interested buy this one


I actually own both of these sets and I almost never use that cheap plastic driver anymore. Plus the one I linked the driver itself extends and it has longer bits so having both bit sets is still useful if you already have the other set. The driver in the one I linked is worth the price alone.

> I was thinking of buying an eye glass repair kit but wasn't sure it would fit. I was thinking perhaps you guys knew of where to get one on line that would work for sure.

I use something similar to this but it came with a bit more and I got it at Lowes, but that's just to give you an idea.

edit

Actually I have something EXACTLY like this

Linesman

I have both of these Klein diagonal cutters
Angled
Straight

Needle Nose

11 in 1

Strippers

Too lazy to do the rest but I’m sure you could figure it out lol

If anyone's looking for a nice screwdriver sets that includes a tri-wing, I highly recommend this product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O

Klein makes really great stuff. My main go-to screwdriver right now is the Wera Kraftform Kompakt Racheting Screwdriver

28g is good to start with. You'll also need something to wrap your coils on. These screwdrivers are a popular choice. You can also use the little blue screwdriver that will come with your magma. SteamEngine is your friend for coil wrapping.

Pro tip: throw out the pre-made wick and coils that come with your RDA, because they're crap. Keep the extra screws, O - rings and screwdriver, just in case.

I got these ones and they are great. They have from 1 - 3mm drill bits and then two Phillips ones for screwing your posts down.
Nice rubberised grips that help you keep tight hold. I'm ashamed to say I saw them on a rip video.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00009OYGV

I never bought a building kit, I just got a small screwdriver set and use that exclusively, mine is a little older, but something like this should work just fine.

a security one too (this means there is a hole in the center of it). Can't use just a normal one. This one is pretty cheap

Nanch Small Precision Screwdriver Set with 22 Magnetic Screwdriver Bits,Repair Tool Kit for Laptop,Smartphone,iPhone,Jewelry and other Small Electronics. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RTsIDbWN8V2ZF shortly after finishing I went on Amazon and bought this set. Way better than those red screwdrivers!

No idea. I only know the terms T8 and T8 Security. The one with the hole in the tip is what you want.

This is perfect (see the picture)

http://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393986996&sr=8-1&keywords=t8+security

This is the one I bought.. (bad pic on this though)

http://www.amazon.com/SODIAL--Security-Screwdriver-Wireless-Controller/dp/B008YCEVII/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1393986996&sr=8-6&keywords=t8+security

Nanch Precision Small Screwdriver Set with 22 Bits,Repair Tool Kit for Computer,Smartphone,iPhone,Game Console and other Electronics Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_snfPAb4GJZJYE

I love this set. I have 2.

I have two black and two white. I took one black and one white, opened them up and switched the buttons around. Now I have one white with white buttons, one black with black buttons, one white with black buttons, and one black with white buttons. It's fairly easy to do, but you will need to order a special tri-wing screwdriver to open them up.

You need this, this, and optionally this. Go over all the instructions beforehand, watch a few different videos so you're somewhat familiar with what goes where, do it in a clean, well-lit environment with a good place to keep the screws, and don't rush it. It's honestly not difficult at all.

Oh, and you might wanna wear latex gloves or something, to keep any oils on your skin from getting onto the internals of the phone. Getting some of the metal areas dirty can effect your reception, or so I've heard.

Homes, get yourself one of those demagnetizer/magnetizer squares, this way you have the best of both worlds!

Is this ok? I really can’t tell good quality tools from cheap tools so idk.

Re: setting the blade lengths. Trial and error. I always start off a cable assembling session by testing the stripper and adjusting it. If it's not perfect, I keep adjusting it until it is. I just made what feels like a million DIN 1.0/2.3 to BNC cables out of 1855A with Kings connectors. Once the LC CST was set up properly it worked all day.

Wiha might not be worth the price to you, but it is to me. I take apart lots of computers and things with small screws. Whatever you get, stay away from sets like these. The handles aren't wide enough for a comfortable grip, and I've had a few where the screwdriver wasn't properly press fit into the handle, so the handle just spun around.

I carry a nanch precision screwdriver set in my backpack at all times. Other people around me always go to me first whenever they need a screwdriver or some tools to borrow. Its a good feeling

https://smile.amazon.com/Nanch-Precision-Screwdriver-Smartphone-Electronics/dp/B00QZLV03O/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NK1WCEVGKTZW&keywords=nanch+small+precision+screwdriver+set&qid=1566115135&s=gateway&sprefix=nanch%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-3

Edit: added URL

Try this one from Snap-On.

Or, you can check out this one. It's by the folks who make the Snap-On model.

This one is pretty good, too.

Make sure you buy quality bits, too. A great driver with crappy bits nets a crappy time repairing anything.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KMDZ0 Greatest thing ever.

I have these, I'm not sure why they're listed at $20 bucks now since I bought them for $8 last year. I got these because I have a universal screwdriver handle that I thought they would fit into. Of course, they don't so I have to grab the end with pliers sometimes when I'm getting a screw in or out. They're high-quality and work fine. If I was buying again today, I'd probably take a chance on these. They're cheap and have an integrated handle.

Wera tools are awesome. As aviation mechanic I use http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Kompakt-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B004VMWYCU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397926134&sr=8-1&keywords=Wera+ratchet+screwdriver every hour of my workday. The fact that it can carry other bits I need really comes in handy.

I got these ones from amazon.ca/.com

http://www.amazon.com/Silverhill-Tools-ATKNND-Security-Screwdriver/dp/B00BEZY2I6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398202464&sr=8-2&keywords=Nintendo+security+tool

work like a beaut

Lots of people. The Wiha set linked to doesn't have the bulb in the middle. OP if you're set on having a bulb I can recommend the Stanley precision screwdriver set. Very affordable and available everywhere. If you don't mind a set with bits I love my Boxer set: https://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-Precision-Screwdriver-PK30/dp/B000FGQ1G6

Else suck it up and buy the Wera set.

Here is the screen you need ($53). Here is a precision screwdriver set you can use ($4). Here is video showing you how to fix it.

Do it yourself, and save $100 or so.

You'll want some JIS screwdrivers. There's lot of "phillips" screws on those bikes, but if you try and use your trusty old phillips driver on them, you'll strip them out in a heartbeat.

https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU

A good set of small screwdrivers, some sort of wire cutters, cotton, and a good pair of tweezers (preferably with ceramic tips)

This and my hands make a pretty solid wrapping kit

Or you could be cool like me.

If you're wanting to get fancy then Wera makes excellent screwdrivers.

If not, just any old phillips that isn't too sharp will work.

Can't go wrong with Wera. I got this one on sale a few months ago and have been very pleased with it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWYCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yZHwyb1ZNJY1C

I'm a fan of these: http://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-Precision-Screwdriver-PK30/dp/B000FGQ1G6

They've served me well for glasses and computer repair! Magnetic too, though not so much that I've seen issues when putting my computer together...

actually i was really curious about this so i googled/amazoned some more:

http://www.amazon.com/Screwpop-SP2BP-Black-Mutli-Tool/dp/B006GER8S6/ref=sr_1_42?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1449722623&sr=1-42&keywords=pocket+screwdriver

http://www.amazon.com/SE-7525TS-10-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B002Q836V4/ref=sr_1_22?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1449722523&sr=1-22&keywords=pocket+screwdriver

that one has what youre looking for but its not a 1/4" hex so itll be a pain to find replacements (those bits look kinda cheapy)

http://www.amazon.com/Bostitch-Office-Stanley-Screwdriver-66-344-2/dp/B00ZPSO8GE/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1449722523&sr=1-3&keywords=pocket+screwdriver

That one is a 5mm bit, close to 1/4" but not quite (1/4" is 5.5mm)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QZLV03O?psc=1

your best bet is that one with a box of #2 phillips/slotted from home depot or amazon...

Overkill for just a T430, but I can highly recommend this kit for laptop work. I refurbish laptops and this is the kit I use and it's quality.