Reddit mentions: The best screws

We found 346 Reddit comments discussing the best screws. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 257 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

14. ITW Brands 11353 6PK #30 Dry Anchor

  • Highly durable
  • Easy to use
  • Manufactured in China
ITW Brands 11353 6PK #30 Dry Anchor
Height0.75 Inches
Length5.25 Inches
Weight0.04 Pounds
Width2.47 Inches
Number of items1
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on screws

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where screws are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 12
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 11
Number of comments: 5
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 10
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 7
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 4
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 3
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 3
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 3
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 3
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 2
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1

idea-bulb Interested in what Redditors like? Check out our Shuffle feature

Shuffle: random products popular on Reddit

Top Reddit comments about Screws:

u/whitepk · 1 pointr/auto

I would buy a Haynes manual for your car. If you can't get one from Haynes or Amazon, eBay should have a second hand one for very little. This will give you all the advice and guidance you need on maintaining your car. It will also provide some help on buying tools. It should also allow you to do a lot of 'inspection' work yourself - so I wouldn't bother taking it to the professionals for that unless you find something wrong that you don't think you can handle yourself.

The light thing is normal. As long as they go off when you start the car, that's fine.

In terms of tools, I'd start modestly and then buy extra stuff when you need it. But these are things you will need to get started:

  • Socket set: I would get one that only has metric sockets (as you won't have much use for the imperial ones on modern cars). You will probably need at least the following size sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm. German cars use a lot of 16mm but they are fairly uncommon elsewhere. You may need to fill the 'gaps' in as you do more work. Try to get one that is aimed at mechanics as this will have useful extras that you will need such as 'deep' sockets and spark plug sockets. My best advice would be to get a fairly large one with 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" ratchet wrenches (the wrenches are still measured in imperial - the sockets themselves will still be metric). If you can't afford this, a joint 1/2" and 3/8" would do, or maybe just a 3/8" set at a pinch. You don't need really expensive ones but avoid very cheap sets. Expect to pay at least $50+ for a decent set. This one is aimed at mechanics and includes some of the other stuff in the list below. It's at the cheap end of the market but should be fine to start with for occasional work. But if you can afford a better one I would spend a bit more.

  • Screwdrivers: flat head and Phillips (cross-head)

  • A set of hex keys ('Allen wrenches') like this one

  • A set of 'combination' wrenches with one 'open' and one 'closed' end like this.

  • You should also get at least one torque wrench. This makes sure you tighten nuts, etc. to the correct tightness. I may seem like a luxury but I assure you it's not. You'll probably need to cover a range of torques from about 25Nm to 120Nm for basic tasks.

  • Other wrenches such as a water pump wrench, a 'mole grip' and some pliers would also be useful.

  • A rubber mallet is also useful.

  • You will need a jack and axle (axel) stands, too.

  • Good 'medium range' brands like Draper or Laser will be fine and probably last a lifetime for occasional use.

    That should set you up. I'm sure I've forgotten a few things and other people will add useful suggestions. It may seem quite a big outlay on tools at the start but you'll soon get your money back with saved garage bills. You'll probably become more attentive to your car's needs too and prevent many major problems arising. It's not very hard to do basic oil changes, filter changes, brake work, etc. and you might even find that (like me) you come to really enjoy it.

    Good luck!
u/2k4s · 2 pointsr/modular

just to expand on my other post because I didn't have all the links at the time. Hopefully this helps others too. Feel free to add to this if there are better solutions than these.

MeanWell RT-65B power supply keep in mind that the -12v rail is only good for 500ma. check your modules in modular grid to make sure you don't need more than one of these power supplies. it's super easy to wire the power supply to a busboard but if you don't feel comfortable doing it you'll have to get something like a Zeus power supply.

Vector rails TS-600 is the best value if you are building a large case or want to build more later or if you want to sell your leftovers on Reverb or whatever. You can use these screws to attach the vector rails to the case or the spacer strips.

Rail nuts these are the square nuts that slide into the rails (only for vector rails) they require M2.5 screws 6mm is a good length unless you have some thick acrylic panels on your modules or something like that. you can alternatively use threaded strips but they will cost a little more and I'm not a fan. Not all modules have their panel holes in the appropriate place and sometimes it causes a problem because the threaded insert holes are fixed in one place.

Panel mount plug w fuse you'll need to do a little wiring on this one. match the fuse value to the power supply overall amp draw. Don't go too much over. the fuse is supposed to blow if too many amps go through the case. Having too large value of fuse defeats the purpose.

I like this busboard and they also have the cheapest (Warning! see edit) 3U sideplates although I don't see why you can make your own or maybe even go without them. MDLRCASE actually has some great values on the larger cases too if you decide not to DIY. If you are in the USA shipping is quite an expense though.EDIT: the 3U side plates do not work for vector rails, they are the wrong spacing. They only work for the rails which they sell which are different. So, if you are using vector rails, don't buy these. The busboards are still cool)

If you decide to go for the flying bus cable

build notes:

Each 3U (height of one eurorack space) is approximately 5.25" (133.35mm) but the modules are mostly less than 130mm tall. so you can build the height of a 3U rack so the the interior dimension from wood to wood is 5 1/4" exactly and you'll be fine.

Don't cut wood until you have your rails and spacers or at least rails and a blank panel or module installed so that you will know the exact width you will need for the rails.

Be aware of the depth of your modules and factor the space for the power supply and busboard. don't make the case too shallow or some modules may not fit. Modulargrid is your friend for this and the power draw.

There will be wall level voltage inside your case, so make sure you route those cables neat and secure them well. Cover them if possible and don't let stray screws and stuff fall in there. If they do, power off and get them out. Use blank panels to cover unused spaces. Obviously power off and unplug when installing modules.

u/Tdshimo · 34 pointsr/DIY

Agreed with other posters; the plastic material is overwhelmingly likely to be HDPE. Maaaaybe nylon, but probably HDPE (given its semi-translucent appearance). HDPE is food and medicine safe, dishwasher safe, tough as nails, and easy to work with.

If you're thinking of sourcing materials locally, look for a store like TAP Plastics (this is my local plastic retailer on the west coast of the US). You could also order the stuff and have it shipped; here's a 2ft length of 1" HDPE rod on Amazon for $17.00, which would give you plenty of material to make lots of utensils.

That screw on the top is a stainless, pan head hex (or socket) cap screw, which is a nice fastener but not exactly the right thread for the material (HDPE can hold threads, but the thread type on this metal screw could easily strip it out... I know I sound fussy about the fastener specs, but it matters in this case, since you want to avoid having the screw loosen itself all the time). A better fastener would be one intended for plastic; you want thread rolling screws to get the right anchoring in the plastic. You can find a 50-pack of 1",stainless steel pan head thread rolling screws for $6.44 (again, on Amazon). You'd drill a pilot hole in the HDPE bar that's smaller than the screws' thread diameter, and the screws will self-tap and get good "purchase" in the plastic.

For the thumb detent/brace, this again is HDPE sheet that's been formed into that specific curve. The nice thing about HDPE is that it can be formed using a modest amount of heat; boiling water is all that's needed in order to get it malleable enough to easily shape it into the right profile. That looks like 1/4" to me. You can get HDPE sheet and cut it into strips using a plastic cutter ($5 on Amazon), then cut strips to length, form the strips to the right ergonomic shape, drill, and assemble. Here's a 1/4" thick, 12x12" sheet for $8.50.

Finally, to deburr and smooth the cut lines on the plastic, you can hit it with a propane or butane torch, with quick passes that'll melt the small burrs and help the other marks to level-out.

Another thing to note: this utensil adapter is precisely the type of use case where 3D printers shine, and I'm looking at my 3D printer and the quick 3D model of this I just built in CAD, and I know I can bang these off and ship them to you in no time. I hesitate, though, in recommending only 3D printed parts. I have hundreds of functional prints around the house/garage/cars etc, and I love making functional prints, but as good as I get at design, and the better the hardware gets, functional prints from desktop printers still have strength and durability limitations; extruded rod and sheet are just stronger.


All links in the same list:

- 1" HDPE rod

- Stainless pan head thread rolling screws

- Plastic cutter

- 1/4" HDPE sheet

u/DeepMusing · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can get vinyl wrap from a number of locations online, often used for automotive panels. I had leftovers from a furniture project that used a black wood grain vinyl wrap for drawer fronts. Amazon link below. I just used that because it was handy. It worked great, but if I did it again, I might search for a faux carbon fiber print, which looks really cool for ... anything.

I just cut a 1/2" plywood sheet to 24" x 24". Drilled and countersunk the mounting holes for the wall studs, and drilled holes for 1/4-20 threaded inserts for the VESA mounting plate. Big wood screws probably would have worked too, but the threaded inserts seemed like a good idea. Then I sanded the panel, vacuumed it thoroughly to get the dust off, then applied the vinyl wrap, which is just a big sticker. You never want to completely remove the peel away backing from the vinyl sheet before applying it. It is too sticky and easily ruined if it sticks to itself or you try to peel it off of another surface. Peel the backing sheet about 4", stick it to one end of the panel surface, then slowly and carefully rub the sheet flat across the panel while pulling the backing sheet away progressively. You only get one chance to apply it correctly. Trying to pull it off of the panel will likely tear up the plywood. Then use an Xacto knife to trim any excess, and wrap the ends like a present. Finally, mount it to the wall with long drywall screws, attached the VESA plate, and hang the chassis.

  • Vinyl sheet that I used - Anything will work

  • Threaded inserts

  • 1/4-20 x 1/2" Truss Head Screws

  • VESA Mounting Plate

  • Black Cable Mounts - Must be screwed to panel or will eventually pull the vinyl sheet away from the panel from the weight of the cables.

  • Slim USB DVD Drive - Sits on top of the power supply.

    I taped the DVD drive to the power supply with this, which is thick, super strong, and yet removable without shreading or leaving any gunk or glue behind. That tape also works fantastically for mounting LED strips, the best that I have tried so far. It's rubbery and doesn't feel super sticky and can be pulled off fairly easily - at first. After about a minute, it bonds really well to any surface, then takes a lot of effort to pull up again. Great stuff !!

u/DesolationRobot · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

The easy but expensive way is to use a bracket like this. Expensive not only because you have to buy one for each joint, but it also doubles the number of fasteners you need. And since you're being wise and using stainless steel fasteners only on your cedar fence, that cost adds up.

Cheaper would be to drill pocket holes into the end of each rail. Put the pocket holes in the face side that will be covered up by the pickets. This does two things: the pocket screw is angled into the meat of the post rather than the side and here you can get away with using cheaper coated screws because they'll be somewhat protected by the picket and if they do bleed, the picket will be in front anyway. Plus it's a much cleaner look.

I like the Kreg K3 for basic homeowner tasks. It's especially great for this because it's easy to move it to the long rails. Pair it with a cheap face clamp and you're set. Throw a little polyurethane construction adhesive in the joint (mostly to keep the water out).

This is how I built my fence. 3 years later and the rails are as tight as ever. I have every confidence that they'll make it to 15 years just fine. Or, rather, if something breaks on this fence, it won't be the rails.

u/ExpectDeer · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Hello, fellow Canuck! :D

Amazon is my goto for parts as well. I live in a smallish city so local resources are few and far between.

M3 kit - I bought capped hex M3s for no other reason than I like the look of them. This is the one I bought. Whichever kit you decide, make sure it has a 25mm bolt. The 25 is long enough to go through the stack, the 40x20 fan, and into the shroud.

Fans: you may have to do detective work to find static pressure ratings. I found the Sunon specs somewhere else other than Amazon. I'm sorry I can't remember where or what the spec was other than it was higher than the Noctua.

Velocity Stacks: like fezzes, velocity stacks are cool.

Settings etc.: I saw your note about the fan being installed backwards. Ack! I accidentally did that, too, but I caught it before I started to print. Hold off on the flow percentage change for now until you've got the fan sorted out and/or installed the new shroud, fan, and velocity stack. You may find that's enough to get the results you like or you may want to experiment with flow to see if you can edge the quality up higher. I run at 92/92 for my flow, sometimes changing it to 92/94 if I've got a first layer adhesion issue.

Physical mods: of all the ones I've done, replacing the extruder to an all-metal one was the best. I know you said you're budget conscious, but if you have the money for it, it's a great upgrade. This is the one I use. I know it says Ender 3/CR10 etc. all over the listing, but it will work for the mini with a small modification. If you dig around in my comment history you'll find a guide of sorts that I wrote for someone on how to do it.

Bed curling: After you get the quality sorted out, you can investigate why it's curling. If you need to use a brim or raft in the meantime that's okay. One problem at a time ;)

u/bundt_chi · 2 pointsr/DIY

I'm from the US so we may be using different terminology but the plastic thing that you put into the wall is what we call a "wall anchor". I think they are what you call "plugs".

If you look at the package of wall anchors you've purchased it says it's for use in "solid brickwork, masonry, concrete or blockwork". Those type of wall anchors are not intended to expand very much and will not grip drywall well. You need dry wall anchors something like this. Also pay attention to the the amount of weight they are rated for, something like this the higher the better. If you there are studs in that recess that's the best thing to do is screw into the studs directly using some strong screws and forget the drywall anchors.

Otherwise get drywall anchors and unless the anchors are quite a bit bigger than the holes you already made you should not reuse the same holes.

Good luck and also keep in mind walls in a home are not always exactly 90 degrees so you may need the boards / ledges that the top will rest on to be a bit bigger or you can cut the top to custom fit the shape of the recess.

u/deathbeforeupvote · 6 pointsr/RBA

KidneyPuncher has a 10-pack of Phillips pan head screws for $1.95

If you want to go the Home Depot route, it will be cheaper, but they usually don't carry them at their B&M stores. However shipping to store is free and sometimes they are cheaper than Amazon.

Amazon and Ebay carry the fasteners your require, but usually in quantities of 25, 50, 100, and etc. Not expensive to buy in bulk, as well.

I personally replace the stock Phillips screws that usually comes with RDAs with flat set screws. It uses a 0.9mm hex key/bit instead of precision Phillips screwdriver, so there is no chance of stripping the head. Just my 2 cents. (A big thank you goes to /u/slumberland for giving me that gem of a tip!)


Amazon - QTY 100 for $3.67 PRIME eligible

Home Depot - QTY 3 for $0.30 FREE shipping to store (arrives Aug. 8 -Aug. 13)

Hope that helps you!

u/88silber · 1 pointr/RBA

You're fine with 1 decimal, if you want to build super low ohm quads at some point yeah I'd recommend getting a standalone ohm meter.

Avoid the caravela as a first mod. The clones are good, don't get me wrong, but the caravela is supposed to come with 5 different length positive pins to adjust for your atomizer and the clone comes with 1. So basically you can only use it with atomizers with an adjustable pin, or you're risking having gaps or battery rattle or worse yet, no connection.

The nemesis clone is a solid choice. It's tried, true, great with magnets, and it's a standard 22mm size. Fasttech also sells colored aluminum tubes for it if you want a lower voltage drop or the look. If I were buying a new mod right now and I didn't have any, I'd get a brass nemesis clone off fasttech with the black or red tube kit.

For the atomize it just depends on how much you want to drop. You can get GREAT results from some of the cheap $5 fasttech atomizers simply by picking up a pack of m2x0.4 machine screws and replacing the cheap screws most of the fasttech attys come with.

Cheap RDA's:

$6 Fasttech Omega clone

$3-5 Fasttech phoenix v5 nimbus clone (with the above mentioned screws)

Authentic igo-l/w (cheap on 101vape)

Mid end RDA's:

Igo-W + 22mm top cap (cap it all vapes) + optional copper posive pin (about 30-40bux)

Trident v2 clone (about 20bux)

Atomic clone (will be in the wild soon, be patient)

Low-High End:

Authentic Nimbus

Authentic Patriot (some sites are selling it for $50)

Don't be afraid of starting with something lower end, I have a zillion RDA's and my $5 fasttech nimbus clone and my igo-l/w's probably see the most use. Airflow control isn't really needed since you will probably find an airhole size you like and stick to it, that's what a drill's for. I like having it, but things like "how easy is this thing to build on" are much more important.

u/superchikn · 1 pointr/Nerf

I just replaced all the shell screws on one of my Rapidstrikes with These
They are a hair shorter but I cannot find 1/2" in 3-24 (in torx drive). The thread is really nice and I prefer torx to phillips drive any day. Much more positive engagement.

If your bosses are stripped there are These If you wnat to go straight to these you will need to drill the bosses out slightly.

This works well as a driver. It includes the T8 and T9 sizes required for each size screw respectively. For the three or so deepest screw holes on an RS do not fully seat the driver bit and it will reach.

u/Bornity · 1 pointr/functionalprint

Thanks man!

Locally, Lowes is pretty good for basic 1/4-20, 5/16-18 and 3/8-16 nuts and hex bolts. Then everything else, Amazon. Like the 5/16-18 x 1" button cap screws. Love that 2 Day free shipping with Prime.

u/veive · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

It's pretty easy to make your own "kit" if you have the BOM and access to Amazon or a site like it. I'm biased because I've always gotten good service from them. Some people have said that I'm biased because they pay me, but I really do try not to recommend places of business that I don't frequent myself.

Anyhow, here are the x upgrade and the y upgrade that I was looking at when I went searching.

Both use 608 bearings and a 10 pack should take care of it and give you several spares for further upgrades or replacements in the future. (want a spool coaster?)

Next you need the GT2 belt and 2 pulleys. Done.

The BOM doesn't say it, but you might need some m3 screws

Edit: Full disclosure: Amazon pays me something like 4% on items that aren't sold by third parties. If everything on this list qualifies and you buy it all I expect to make about a dollar.

u/lighthenge · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Great questions.

Yes, I found these great brass knurled thumb screws and threaded inserts for the pivots. I thought about a soild pin but that may interfered with anything larger than a letter.

The inner top corners and bottom back panel are angled to give swing clearance from the outer box.

I played with lots of wood blocks and inner catch ideas but settled simply on 2 small brass nails that I insert/remove to mount the outer box to the wall. The are definatly strong enough to prevent it from "over opened".

I ended up spending a lot o time finding the right pivot point but found a place where its nicely balanced. Its stays shut when its shut and open when its opened.

u/themikewill · 7 pointsr/Nerf

I have some big plans for these two, but part of those plans involve integrations. I do have modifying experience with epoxy putty, removing ARs, switching springs, and more, but I've never combined shells before.

Here's what I'm thinking about doing with these blasters.


For the Slingfire I want to give it metal gears, a 9 kg spring, a thumbscrew for the stock, and a detachable long brass barrel so the whole thing can fit in a smaller bag.

I think I'll cut off the shell's "barrel" entirely and remove the flat feeder mechanism. I'll cut the new barrel attachment piece down so that the recon barrel is flush when it's attached. I'm debating if I should just keep the attachment whole and glue it to half the shell, or cut the attachment in half and glue each half to a different shell half.


The Ball launcher will be more tricky. What I might try is either replacing the elastic with a better one or just switching it out entirely with some kind of wire and pull spring set up. I think there's real potential in the tennis ball launcher. I just haven't found anybody that was willing to spend the time to experiment with its internals.

I think to make the stock attachment work I'll cut a recon's attachment point from its shell and glue the two halves to the tennis ball launcher shell. I'll probably drill long screws and stuff some epoxy putty in it as reinforcement.


I hope that what I said makes sense and that anybody cares enough to read it.

u/Redmanc92 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I bought that same card from Overclockers UK and it's terrific, it was the first one I've ever bought/used so didn't really what to expect for £150.

Also just bought Articlean set off Amazon for a £10, it comes with the 3.5g tube but the Hyper 212 Evo should come with thermal paste anyway.

Also maybe consider ditching the sound card and going with the Asus Maximus Hero/Ranger motherboard it has better on board audio, I would imagine at least as good as the sound card you were looking at.

Rest looks good!

u/Lost_Thought · 5 pointsr/guns
  • Metal locking cabinet

  • Stud Finder

  • Some lag screws with washers

    Use the stud finder to locate a stud in your wall (closets can be a good place), mark it above the top of the safe. Take your safe, find the holes in the back (or drill some) Mark the top of the safe in line with the holes in the back. Line up both marks, getting the safe as close to the wall as possible (you might need to put it up on some plywood if there is a kicker board). Drive the bolts into the stud anchoring it in place.

    This is easy to remove and patching 4 or 5 screw holes in drywall is something that most apartment dwellers will be doing anyway.
u/DaoDeer · 1 pointr/3Dprinting


($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod


($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.

Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.


Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2


Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.

The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.


Glass bed Holder

Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.


Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.


($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors

$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

u/Sovereign__Boaby · 1 pointr/buildapc

So I've heard. I'm going to buy some new thermal paste as well, is this a good kit do buy do you think? Looks like a good deal to me.

u/Clishem · 1 pointr/PS3

If you have the money why not upgrade? You might be dissapointed with the games though there is basically non out at the moment.

Don't send your ps3 to sony 150$ is too much to fix the ylod and im guessing eventually you'll be upgrading to the ps3 in the upcoming months anyway.

If you want to fix the ylod yourself it's quite easy here is everything you need:

That's around 25 quid to fix it yourself, pretty cool.

u/MileHighMontana · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Yes, they are handy to have. I bought this and Im glad I have it. Better quality steel than the chinese stuff I have used. I hate when I strip out a hex head because the metal its made from is garbage. You may want to get a kit with some washers and some longer bolts (35-60mm) as well. I find myself needing those. The washers are handy if you are bolting printed parts together, helps to prevent the bolt head from sinking into the plastic. I have also bought little variety packs of different wire plugs/pins for wiring up steppers, controls boards and other things.

u/coletain · 7 pointsr/woodworking

Kreg Pocket Hole Screws

Amazon: 30% off ($20.96) SK03 Pocket Hole Screw Kit or Starter Kit, good assortment of commonly used sizes for 1/2" and 3/4" material.

150 1 inch fine
150 1-1/4 inch fine
150 1 inch course
150 1-1/4 inch course
75 2-1/2 inch course (exterior rated)

u/SneakyPetesMyName · 1 pointr/HotWheels

First I center punch the rivets on the bottom with one of these-

Bastex Steel Automatic Center Punch For Stable Hole Drill Indentation. with Adjustable Tension, Push-to-strike Function.

Then I will use a 1/4” drill bit to take the head of the rivets off so the body and base can be separated. Just be slow and careful at this point so you don’t damage the base. Sometimes you may need to use a smaller bit on this part so just check and see what works best for the application.

Then I drill down about 3/16” into the rivet with one of these drills and then tap the hole with the tap-

Du-Bro 360 2-56 Tap And Drill Set

Then I install one of these to make sure it fits correctly and holds everything together properly after all the work is done. You could also do a 2-56x3/16” screw if you want one a little bit longer-

2-56 x 1/8" Button Head Socket Cap Screws, Allen Socket Drive, Stainless Steel 18-8, Full Thread, Bright Finish, Machine Thread, Quantity 100 By Fastenere

I think that’s about it. Send me a DM if you have any other questions.

u/TarmacFFS · 2 pointsr/electronics

It's pretty straight forward. Here are the parts I'm using:

  1. I bought this ATX plug so I didn't have to splice my power supply.
  2. Using this PWM controller
  3. Using these female banana plugs

    Those are the things I bought specifically for this project. The things I already had that helped are:

  4. I really like this flexible silicone wire.
  5. I use these USB connectors for various projects. Their pinout is .1" (2.54mm) and it comes with all kinds. Works well for slimming down a raspberry pi.
  6. I used one of these prototype boards to solder the usb receptacles and the LED to.
  7. I'm using a pink LED from this pack of assorted LEDs along either a 100ohm or 220ohm resistor, I can't remember.
  8. I use one of these DPDT switches to switch between power on w/ PWM and power on w/ power to the solder fume extractor.
  9. I used a JST connector from this JST kit to put a male header on the side so I can plug in accessories like the solder fume extractor.
  10. Lastly, the front panel is bolted on with some M3 screws from this assortment.
  11. The case was modeled in Rhino 5 and printed in a CR-10 using Silver eSun PLA+

    This post has made me realize I have way to much electronics stuff just lying around...
u/saneboy · 1 pointr/homelab

I use these ones for 3.5" disks: I've used them in Dell, HPE and Supermicro trays. They fit them all

and these ones for 2.5" disks:

u/GZ-Onan · 2 pointsr/HotWheels

Drill out original rivets, which I assume you did in order to take it apart. Drill pilot holes for tap, be careful not to go too far. Use tap tool to cut threads, make sure to use lube (wd40 works). If you’re unfamiliar with tapping maybe look up a vid on you tube.

Button head screws -
Tap and drill bit

u/Odjur · 2 pointsr/woodworking

In the long run they really aren't that expensive and they really are the right choice for the job. I got a deal on this screw kit awhile ago and love it for holding all my different sizes. When I run low on a particular kind I just fill up that section.

u/di5ide · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Everything should be M3. Do your self a favor and replace all the Philips with socket caps.

You'll also want lock washers

u/Sargeant123444 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yes it is, air bubbles will have formed and act as an insulator. This will make the entirety of the thermal paste useless and lead to sever CPU overheating. You will need to purchase some more.

Here is a link to some good quality thermal paste that will last you a while as while as a remover kit

Thermal Paste and Remover kit :

u/severalohms · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

motor screws are m3 screws, this is a good place to start but i can't tell how long the screw is so you may want to measure it's length in mm before buying. or if you need it sooner, a local hardware store should be able to match one up for you.

u/soupyfrood · 4 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

Kreg SK03 Pocket-Hole Screw Kit in 5 Sizes

I got that one and then just bought boxes of the screws I used the most.

u/nuhGIRLyen · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here, in a pack of 100.

If you're looking for the screws on other sites, the size of the screw is M2-0.4, metric coarse.