(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best sd cards

You are going to need a few things:

• An APS-C sensor camera. Example: [Nikon D7200] (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=nikon%20d7200&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ps); an older used Nikon D7000 would be perfectly fine too (~$350). The Nikon D7xxx series is the lowest-end Nikon that supports lens focus adjustment and older, motor-driven lenses, so that's where I would start. The D5xxx series isn't bad either, and the tilt screen is nice, but it doesn't support focus adjustment.
  
  
• A decent lens. A kit lens will work well for your purposes, although for interiors a wide angle lens is sometimes helpful. You can get the D7200 in a bundle with the kit lens. An older used 18-105mm (or even an 18-55mm) will do just fine too ($200). A kit lens will let you get shots where everything is in focus (i.e., using a narrow aperture like f/5.6); if you want shots that isolate a single subject, you may need more expensive lenses that support wider apertures like f/2.8 or f/1.8.
  
  
• A good flash, which supports aiming, wide angle lenses, TTL, and wireless triggering. Example: [Nikon SB-700] (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/734997-USA/Nikon_4808_SB_700_Speedlight_Shoe_Mount.html) (about $175 used). This is essential for good interior shots; good photographers often use multiple flashes and light modifiers, but this one solid flash will be great to get you started.
  
  
• A steady tripod that's easy to deploy. Don't cheap out on the tripod. Read [this] (http://bythom.com/support.htm) about tripods. A good mid-range Tripod brand is [Feisol] (http://www.feisol.net/tripods.html) (I'd budget around $400). A good tripod is absolutely essential to getting nice interior shots like you are talking about. You'll want to set your camera up on the tripod, get everything in focus, then use a cable release (or wireless release) to trigger it. That will give you sharp pictures in indoor light.
  
  
• A good ballhead. Don't cheap out on the ballhead: FLM (I'd probably just buy this new for around $200). I've used the FLM ballhead I linked -- it's technically only mid-range, but it works spectacularly well for the price. I actually like it better than my more-expensive Markins ballhead. The brands in the Thom Hogan article are all fine (RRS, etc.). Don't go with the low-end brands like Surui; I tried one, and it is not even close.
  
  
• A quick-switch plate: Peak Design ($30). I like the Peak Design plates because they are small, light, and they have strap hooks if you want to go that way. Any arca-swiss plate will work though.
  
  
• A remote ($20, or like $.50 used). These are super cheaply made but they generally work OK. The higher-end cameras use radio rather than infrared, but you can get by just fine with the infrared remotes the D7xxx cameras use.
  
  
• Two [memory cards] (https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-Flash-Memory-SDSDXPA-064G-X46/dp/B005LFT3UW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1491828485&sr=8-6&keywords=sandisk%2BSDHC&th=1) ($80 total, I'd buy new personally). The D7xxx cameras allows you to use two cards (with the second as an overflow or backup).
  
  
• A [spare battery] (https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-EN-EL15-Rechargeable-Battery-Packaging/dp/B0045KGZOG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1491828565&sr=8-6&keywords=nikon+battery) ($49, I'd buy new personally). You can get by without this, but it's much more convenient to have a spare.
  
  If you bought all of these things new, it would be way outside of your budget. But, luckily, camera gear has a great used market. I personally use the Fred Miranda forums buy/sell page, but you can also find great stuff on eBay or elsewhere. Refurbs are fine too. And the nice thing about buying used is that if you don't like it, you can sell it for about what you bought it for.
  
  If you buy used (and go for the D7000 rather than the D7200), this should add up to around $1500 or less. I've shot tens of thousands of pictures with the D7000, and it's a wonderful camera. I've also used the D7100, and it's fine too, although honestly I'd probably take the sensor of the D7000 over the D7100. I've heard good things about the D7200 but haven't used it personally (and it has been eclipsed by the more expensive D500). If I were you, I'd go for the used D7000.
  
  

> I don't know the details either. But, since it mixes your coins with those of other people, who is going to pay whom? Don't you all have to pay to some entity that arranges the match?

https://github.com/JoinMarket-Org/joinmarket

> There is no Ligtning Network on the horizon, and I see no reason to hope that there will be.

Indications to the contrary: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bitcoin/comments/5hvjua/whats_going_on_with_lightning_network/db3dg3a/

> And, again, you would be receiving fees for the service of relaying payments, not for holding the bitcoins. Just as the miners get paid for confirming transactions.

As I understand it, you make fees for creating liquidity which requires bitcoin the asset.

> The bitcoin currency is an extremely abstract entity, that cannot even be exhibited on a screen.

Huh? Are you just using this conversation as a propaganda FUD tool?

When I look at my online bank balance it shows "$xx,xxx", same for by bitcoin wallet. That's not abstract.

> The bitcoin currency was created by Satoshi only because he could not design a trustless network to transmit dollars or euros.

This is pure bullshit. "Chancellor on the brink of bailouts...." He sought to create an uncontrolled asset.

> You missed the point completely. Investing in stocks and holding them is NOT AT ALL like investing in bitcoins and holding them. If you don't see the difference, it is no wonder that you can't see why buying bitcoin is not investment,but gambling.

You laid out 2 scenarios, in both you lose all your money. If your point is that hoarding is different than investing in stocks then yes there is a difference, but bitcoin is different from stocks in many ways, and similar too. You also say "The utility is in the currency flow -- the payment system -- not the currency itself" to which I say, the markets say differently. You also have failed to account for capital flight which is not a "payment flow" but an acquire, move and perhaps sell which requires the asset, not just some asset. Again you are trying to separate the payment network from the asset which you cannot do.

> estimated to cost hundreds of millions of dollars per year in ransom, and cause many times that amount of losses to businesses and individuals.

This may be true, but freedom comes with a cost. If this is the price for truly free trade, its'a bargain. Seems like the upside is people will start to practice better security and backup polcies.

> Most uses are legitimate and beneficial to society, so that their balance is massively positive.

> There is not much data, but

... insert subjective statement to suit your preconceived notion. Let's chalk this up to political differences. You worship the state and central control and planning, I don't.


> Why would they choose one that is a lot less stable than those, and which may lose all its value tomorrow?

Now fallacy yet again, and they might choose it for capital flight as carrying large amounts of cash is much more precarious.

> The markets said that Madoff's ponzi was one of the best and more secure investments around. For 30 years.

The markets or just a private group of investors that didn't do any due diligence? Gold -> thousands of years.


> But what has actually improved for the users since 2009?

This is a dumb metric. The thing just works and the one major issue is scale which is actively being worked on from here:

Segwit, which includes linear scaling of sighash operations, malleability fixes, reducing the amount of data required by the signature generator and a large 110% onchain capacity increase

Libsecp256k1, which improved signature validation speeds by c7x

A mempool limiting option mode for nodes

Blocks only mode for nodes

Reducing upload traffic

Compact blocks

Opt in RBF - helping the sender increase the priority of transactions

CPFP - helping the receiver increase the priority of transactions

Continued work on the development of LN and payment channel technology

Headers first

Pruned mode

etc.

> bitcoin user experience today is A LOT worse than it was 2 years ago

Funny, in hundreds of transactions I've only ever experienced a single 2 block delay. I'm betting there is a lot less spam though taking up your precious 96GB.

> Suuure. So small that it can fit in the feature phone of any peasant in Burkina Faso. Even Luke Dash Jr can almost keep up with it, almost.

You apparently missed the part about the pruning nodes. Why would a peasant need the entire chain? Oh that's right, this is just about spreading FUD.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-Standard-Packaging-SDSDUNC-128G-GN6IN/dp/B0143IISD0%3Fpsc%3D1%26SubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-d-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB0143IISD0

> The blockchain design cannot handle that "required" growth

That's where layer 2 comes in.

> the block size would at least let the system function as it was designed

It was designed to be decentralized. IMO Core's wise to see the threat of evolving bitcoin to Paypal 2.0/Fiatcoin.

> A nomenclature note

I call you butters. Better names might be wall flowers, state worshipers, disruption deniers, shills, bitcoin enviers...

> If what we write (here or in your churches) can divide your community,

I didn't say you "can", but you do "try".

> That is how we got the "Fork of July", SegWit, RBF, CPFP -- and the "fee market" deployed before any "layer 2" network was even vaguely designed.

As I understood it, SegWit, RBF are prereqs and it seems the LN plan is pretty well laid out. Gavin didn't seem competent to me (as a professional software developer myself). He always seemed flippant and indecisive. You didn't respond on the 20MB block idea of his among other things. I try to respond point for point.

> 1) fuck the non-mining relay nodes,

So fuck decentralization then?

What I'm seeing here is that you take every possible negative position on bitcoin. You have nothing positive to say about it despite it at the very least solving a number of interesting and never before solved problems, decentralized trust, permissionless transactions and innovation, brilliant security incentivization. There are undeniable positives like the ability to back up your assets (can't do that with any other asset), send transactions without exposing the keys (as with credit cards) yet you are dismissive based on your other one-sided opinions and forgone conclusions. The market is wrong, everyone who uses it is an idiot, even if it succeeds for decades it will be a failure. That's quite a position.

Maybe it's just that like Professor Bitcorn you stuck your neck out too far too soon and now, rather than eat some crow, be a big man and admit you probably spoke too soon, you are too stubborn and prefer instead to continue to fight and deny and worst of all, to influence those that might have otherwise been early adopters. I'm seeing a lot of reports along those lines here: https://www.reddit.com/r/technology/comments/5lkw6q/bitcoin_jumps_above_1000_for_first_time_in_three/?st=IXGBU8NB&sh=e3e1f5f5

It think it might be time for some reflection. Even skepticism is better in moderation.

u/pastramiswissrye is totally right in that lights, sound, lenses, and media are all more important than the best camera.

My personal favorite camera in that price range is the Panasonic G7 and a good 12-35 lens. The G7 is like the little brother to the GH4 as it does 4k and just is missing some of the more pro features and is $600 for the camera. The lens is another $600 but you could just use the kit lens and upgrade your lens later.

Continuing with what Pastrami said, you should have good audio, lights, and media storage, in addition to the camera and lens. For audio, the rode videomic pro is a good all-around shotgun mic that you can put on a boom pole for good short film on location sound, however you will need someone to help hold your boom pole.

For lights, a good reflector will help you use the sun as a light when shooting outside on location for a short film. If you are in a studio, this four socket CFL light kit will go a long way to help. I personally use one of them and they are great for the price. Just pop in four cfl bulbs and you are good to go. If you would prefer LED lights which are smaller and don't heat up as much, but are pricer, you can get this LED studio light kit.

On the media storage side of things, you are going to want to pick up a few of these 64GB U3 SD cards for use with your G7 or any other new camera you get. Especially if you plan on shooting in 4K.

If you are going to shoot in 4K, your file sizes are going to go way up and you are definitely going to need to get more hard drive space on your computer. You may even have to upgrade your computer to handle 4K video editing. It all depends on what you have and what you want to do.

On the editing side, I personally use Final Cut Pro X on my Mac. It is $300 but a great piece of editing software, used by pros. If you are on a mac but don't want to spend money, just use iMovie, it will probably do what you need it to do unless you edit in 4K. On the windows side, some people use sony vegas, some people use AVID, some people use premiere pro, there is a bunch of them out there and you kind of just have to choose one. (I have never used any of them)

Like he said, there is no canon r6i. I assume you mean T6i, but you still need to do some more research. I hope this helps!

A common misconception about Nintendo, by both gamers and non-gamers alike, is that Nintendo's happy family-friendly persona means the games are meant for kids. They're meant for everyone.


No one is too old for Mario -- Nintendo are geniuses at level design and the Mario games are fantastic. The Legend of Zelda: A Link Between Worlds, The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time, Fire Emblem: Awakening, Super Mario 3D Land, Mario Kart 7, Super Smash Bros, Persona Q, Monster Hunter (best played with a Circle Pad Pro) -- all fantastic games.


You could also get him a large SD card. I got this one from Amazon. It's massive and relatively cheap. Excellent for downloaded games.


I would also suggest getting him a case of some kind. I have a case from Waterfield Designs for my PS Vita that I adore, and they make the same cases fit for a 3DS here. They go for $12 for a suede sleeve, to $45 and $49 for the cases. I have the CitySlicker and it's fantastic. Quality materials, soft interior, a zip pouch on the back good for earbuds and games, and three slots under the front pouch for other games. They also boast an excellent support staff to boot.

/u/GHottieJohn - I have the Pocket Cinema Camera and I love it, but if you can wait a few weeks, the [$995 Micro Cinema Camera] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FBMMICINCAM.html) [Referral Link] should be shipping soon. It has global shutter and 1080/60p - features I really wish I had on my BMPCC. First footage came out yesterday and it looks pretty good:

• [Micro by Noam Kroll] (https://vimeo.com/152176332)
  
  The BMMCC is powered by Canon LP-E6 batteries instead of the tiny Nikon EL20s the Pocket uses - so Noam was able to shoot all day on one battery.
  
  With a [$152.10 5" monitor w LP-E6 plate] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BN34TP0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00BN34TP0&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20`), a [$20.99 charger with 2 extra LP-E6 batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q24LDL8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00Q24LDL8&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a [$44.93 SD card] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LFT3UW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005LFT3UW&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), a [$14.99 adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MDWG68/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003MDWG68&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [~$55 28mm f/2.8 FD lens] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00AAZG5YA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&condition=used&creative=390957&linkCode=ur2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Links], you'll be ready to shoot for less than $1300.
  
  Hope this is helpful and, whatever you decide, good luck with your new camera!

Ones with fast write speeds, preferrably. Ones like this (which is 16GB but only 60 or so cents more expensive than the one I was actually planning on linking to originally) which is a Class 10 SDHC card, which means it's got a high speed. It actually says it on the card itself with this one (80mb/s, which is pretty good for an SD card, imo). But pretty much any old SD card will do, provided it's in the right format (which you can find somewhere on the 3DS CFW guide iirc).

Glad I could help!

This is the Canon t3 right? Used to have one.

>Do all DSLR cameras use the same memory card?

Any SD Card, really. It doesnt need anything very fast. This one here is more than enough speed wise, get whatever size you'd like:

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Class-UHS-I-Memory-SDSDUNC-016G-GN6IN/dp/B0143RTB1E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523839347&sr=8-3&keywords=16gb+sd+card&dpID=517XIUIBqBL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

> I'm mainly looking to see how I could do both shallow and deep focus

That is controlled by the aperture. Small aperture (large f-number) will give you deeper depth of field, or deep focus. Large aperture (smaller f-number) will give you a shallow DOF.

>Do all photographers use the settings on the turn dial?

Most people stick with Manual, Aperture Priority, Shutter priority, and Program mode. I would say to go with Aperture Priority if you want to play with depth of field, then the camera will take care of the rest, at least when you are starting out. Then try manual and learn the exposure triangle.

> Is this camera good for video?

It can do video, but its not a string point. It depends on your needs.

You need to learn the basics of photography. These are very simple, core principals. I recommend finding some videos and reading some articles, and more importantly, taking photos. Play with the settings, see what they do first hand.

TLDR: just get the camera. And a memory card.

You don't need any of those things to take pictures. I would expect your teacher to tell you to throw most of that crap away as it will actively prevent you from taking good pictures. Pretty much the only thing in that bundle that will help you take good pictures is the lens hood, and even that only helps in certain situations (bright light, like the sun, shining onto the lens from the side and causing flare if you have dust on your lens). A couple of the cleaning supplies are nice to have, and some people swear by those center-pinch lens caps, but I'd suggest using your camera for a few weeks first and then buying the accessories you find that you need.

If you're buying the camera new, there should be a Nikon-branded shoulder strap in the box. Use that for a little while then if there's something about it you don't like (such as the big yellow "NIKON" splashed across it ;)), buy a strap that fixes that for you. Bags are a whole 'nother thread topic, people get really passionate about their bags. I'm from the school that considers the bag an obstacle to shooting: if you have to open it up first, you're not going to bother to take the camera out to take a shot. If your car's a mess and your camera's going to be bouncing around a lot on the way to class, though, you can get a small one to securely hold your camera, but if you can you should go to a store and pick one out in person so you can literally try it on (put it on your shoulder and make sure it fits well) before buying.

Oh you'll probably need to get an SD card, too. Probably something in the 8-16 GB range. Don't spend too much time stressing over finding the right card (that's another rabbit-hole you can go down with lots of people really passionate about minor differences in write or read speeds that really won't affect you), just buy a reasonably-priced (i.e. not the cheapest) one, preferably from a major brand. SanDisk is usually good.

I just bought this one, and I can't complain. It's Class 10, which means the data transfer rate is good, and the price is very fair, especially if you buy on Amazon. I picked up a 32 GB one for less than $20, and with Amazon Prime, I got free 2 day shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Class-Memory-SF16UY-TQMN/dp/B00B7ID97A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374678968&sr=8-1&keywords=sony+class+10+sd+card

They also have 16 GB cards, since you were looking for that. Also, it's Sony, meaning it's of good quality. Best not to cheap out and get a sub-par SD card.

I personally like having additional on-board storage "just because." Even after configuring my Xfce environment I still have quite a bit of storage left but having more is always nice! :)

I use this SD card but that SanDisk looks nice! Thanks for showing me that.. might have to order one in addition to the SD card! One thing that is a bit annoying is that ChromeOS occasionally pops a warning that you unsafely unmounted your SD card on deep sleep. It should be resolved sooner or later so no worries I suppose.

Good Guide. There are definitely some things in your guide I want for myself. I have the Canon t2i. I would just upgrade the SD card to something with a class 6 or better rating like this only because the t2i can't record video if the SD card is slow. The manual recommends class 6 or better.

I have a ASUS Chromebook (16gb storage, 4gb ram) [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OD38V2E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 - $180 when I bought it new]

I run Crouton and boot up into Debian. While you can install Kali linux. You might have issues with some of the cooler stuff as A: You don't have an ethernet port. B: I haven't yet found a way to set my wireless adaptor into promiscuous mode. It's a great machine for daily driver use. I use mine for some light coding and work (I work in IT)

I recommend getting a 128gb flash drive like this [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YFI1EBC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00] and sticking it in one of the usb 3.0 ports. Mine comes with an sd card slot so I also picked up one of these. [http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WWBCQCK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00]

Battery life under heavy load is 8 hours easy. I run nomachine on a Windows 10 machine at my house and connect to it if I need Windows for anything. I highly recommend the Chromebook lifestyle.

I decided to take the plunge into the world of nicer cameras and am looking forward to learning more about photography than see pretty beach, take pictures.

The impetus for this is a series of upcoming trips. First we'll be headed to Brazil/Argentina which will include a visit to Iguazu falls. Over the summer we'll visit Machu Picchu, Easter Island, French Polynesia, Vietnam, Angkor Wat and Bali. Eventually in 2017, I see a safari to Tanzania. So with that in mind, I figured I wanted a weather sealed camera (waterfalls + rainy places + dust) which could also shoot and focus quickly. I was weighing the Canon D7II and Sony A77II for these reasons, but budget factors eventually led me to purchasing the Sony.

My question is, will the following gear work okay for someone who's learning the game and not become something that I will want to replace entirely in the next couple of years. Also, any comments on if you think I've overpaid for something or am skimping unnecessarily would be welcome.

• Sony kit for $950 open-box: A77II with 16-55mm f2.8 lens and (crappy) 55-200mm f4-5.8 lens
  
• 2 Memory Cards for $25 ea: SanDisk Extreme 32gb
  
• Nikon Lens Pen for $8
  
• Rocket air blaster for $12
  
• 2 3rd Party Batteries for $25: Vivitar knock-offs
  
• El cheapo Amazon camera bag for $25
  
• Tripod for $40 (used): Manfrotto bogen 3011 with Manfrotto 128LP Fluid Head
  
  Thanks for any and all thoughts!

Based on the feedback so far, I'm leaning toward the Sandisk Ultra Fit.

In order of importance, my decision factors...

• The small form factor will reduce the chance of me hitting it accidentally and possibly breaking the port.
  
  
• It is fairly cheap at $19 for 64GB version. This allows me to store at least 1 day of video and reduce the number of re-writes.
  
  
• The write-speed is not a factor, but USB 3.0 should be more future proof if Tesla changes the system, or if i re-purpose the drive to another task. If you want the older version with 2.0, it is even less expensive.
  
  
• Endurance doesn't seem to be a popular concern, so ignoring it for now. I am slightly concerned with operating temperature [32°F to 113°F (0°C to 45°C)] and storage temp [14°F to 158°F (-10°C to 70°C)], but we'll see how it goes this winter. Those more further north than me can report in if they have success or failure.
  
  
• I also ignored the WiFi capability because if i need to unplug the device, there is no reason to use it. I'm still curious if SD based cards like the Toshiba Flash Air W-04 would have a different behavior. I bought one for my digital camera, so i'll give it a try in the Tesla too. The cost is significantly higher, but if i can access dash cam videos from my cell phone and before getting home and without unplugging, that would be a big plus. (also need to find the right SD to USB adapter.)
  
  Thanks for helping me think it out.

7D Mark II,

7D Mark I even if you want to save a heap of cash.

New Canon 90D.

Would recommend the 7D's used from a reputable used reseller like B&H Photo, KEH.com or MPB.com.


Those would be my primary contenders. As for 'lag' are you sure you are buying fast SD cards? Like the really expensive ones, because slower SD cards will delay your buffer from clearing and generally slow the camera down. Something likethis should be a good choice, or in case of many ofthe above mentioned cameras, CF cards.

I'm shopping for full-size SD cards for my Wii U ahead of hacking it. It's a 32GB model.

I've found 128GB cards well within my budget so I'm ready to pull the trigger on this one right here but I want to get my facts straight:

• if I format the card to FAT32 and change the allocation size to the right setting, with the right SD card formatting app, will it probably work?
  
• will the Wii U be able to see and use all 128GB of the card? I understand it will be closer 119.somethingGB in the OS, I'm not talking about that.
  
• will I be able to use it to store Wii and VC games? GCN games, even?
  
  Please don't tell me to just get a HDD right off. I will make up my own mind when I have the info I need. Thanks!

Would it be a good idea to go with this bundle

Or just buy the parts I need camera, case, tripod, SD?

All links go to amazon.com

I don't really care about the filters in the bundle since they are probably trash anyways, and I might have better ones lying around my house anyways that I can use if I want to try them out. But I'm not sure about the other lenses, and items. But I figured if i get the bundle I can try different attachments out and see how I like them. but if to many of the items are going to be trash I would prefer to spend the extra money and buy what I need/want so I don't waist more money

I'M open to alternatives, it seems like from my research this would be a good camera to go with, but if you have any alternatives (try to limit to ~$700 with everything (SD, Camera. case, tripod, etc)

Quick question: Does anyone know if this card will work with my 3ds XL?

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-UHS-I-Memory-SDSDXNE-032G-GNCIN/dp/B013CP3KZ6/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463331007&sr=1-6&keywords=sandisk+extreme+plus+32gb

I plan on buying some virtual games and need a bigger card and this one seems like a great price.

Thanks!

Those are some expensive solutions. When you start talking hundreds of dollars in hard drives, maybe consider just buying a bunch of sd cards?

Amazon has pretty good speed 64 GB Sony cards for $35

$280 would get you 512 GB of storage and you won't have to worry about charging a enclosure/tablet/whatever else.

Sierra Trading post has a good deal on a Goal Zero 7 when you use a 30% off coupon from retailmenot. I ordered on awhile ago when they had a 35% off coupon. The Goal Zero 7 has a usb output that could keep the GoPro battery charged.

I had asked something similar to this before, slightly but I wanted to check:

SanDisk 128GB Ultra UHS-I Class 10 SDXC Memory Card, Black, Standard Packaging (SDSDUNC-128G-GN6IN) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143IISD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Da.SBbDFTDV2S

Would a 128 GB sized SD card like this be more than enough space for larger Digital titles, while leaving a decent amount of space for smaller games? (like VC stuff?)

On top of New Leaf/Tomodachi Life, looks like I’d need 67,698 more available blocks if I decided to go the download route for the 3 Pokémon games (which I might, since it would be easier than Switching cartridges... and then there’s that one time i almost lost my X cartridge...)

Granted I’m aware that I’ll have to format it first before to use it going by another in a previous comment to use it, first... but I think it’ll be enough...?

Sorry, I made this a post then saw the sidebar


So I finally decided to ditch videogames as the only hobby I have and pick up photography. I went out and bought a few things that I deemed required after I researched a little bit.

• Canon EOS Rebel T6 with Kit lens
  
  
• Lexar 64gB (10 speed? Read to make good videos I needed a higher class one so I just got 10)
  
  
• Canon 50mm 1.8f STM Lens
  
  
• 2 Extra Vivitar batteries
  
  
• Tripod
  
  
• Carrying Bag with shoulder strap
  
  
  
  I still have a bit of money I can drop on anything else I need. Since I wanted to do some night photography and am interested in astrophotography I was thinking about getting a remote for my camera, although I read that I can just put the timer on before I run long exposure shots.
  
  
  I also got a couple books!
  
  
  
• National Geographic Book
  
  
  
• And an old edition of "Digital Photography for Dummies" (I am going to buy the new one if I figure out it's too outdated)
  
  
  
  I was thinking I need a lens hood but I'm not sure how to figure out. I am going to San Antonio on Thursday and just wanted to make sure there isn't anything I need that I looked over because I'm a scrub!
  
  
  Thanks!

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/Sony-Class-Memory-SF64UY-TQMN/dp/B00B7ID9CU/ref=sr_1_2


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

San disk: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-SDHC-UHS-I-SDSDXPA-512G-G46/dp/B00NP699ZI

PNY: https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-Performance-512GB-P-SDX512U3H-GE/dp/B00XJRX01M

Lexar: https://www.amazon.com/Lexar-Professional-512GB-Rescue-Software/dp/B012PLFAAG

I heard of a Kingston one for 512 GB as well but haven't found it for sale anywhere.

256Gb ones should be pretty easy to find. If performance matters to you Samsung and Sandisk are the most reliable in read/write speeds actually hitting the threshold.

It will be fine. The UHS3 is just the rating. You can see what the numbers means, here. UHS2 is the one to avoid seen here.

The Extreme or Extreme Plus work fine if you are on a budget and still want good cards. I think the Extreme pros you linked are better, but if you aren't shooting sports or filling the buffer constantly, you may not need it. Both are great cards.

Those are the "burst speeds" not continuous write speeds. UHS-1 write speed is usually around 40-50 MB/s. But they are pretty cheap, the PNY cards are pretty highly rated and a 64 GB card is about $24 on amazon. UHS-3 cards are quite a bit more expensive but do offer 90+ MB/s write speeds. Sandisk sells a 64 GB card for about $80. Unfortunately I'm pretty sure the camera is limited to 40 MB/s write so these probably wouldn't improve it any.

This chart shows max resolution cameras can record raw at. Only camera capable of 1080p at 24fps continuously is the 5DIII.

My suggestion:

Get the Acer C7 Chromebook for $199.00.

Then buy an SD card for less than $10.


Finally, go to this website that specializes in turning a raspberry pi into an emulation station. There's instructions on how to turn the SD card into the emulation station on there.

You should be able to use that WITH the chromebook for everything you've said you want. Brand new awesome chromebook and an all in one emulation system for less than $210.



REDDIT: If anything I've said is wrong or doesn't/won't actually work, please reply and tell us. I recently made myself a raspberry pi SNES using the linked website. I assume the same will work, but I'm not a linux pro. Any info (confirming or denying what I said) would be greatly appreciated.



If none of what I said interests you, I agree with what u/LFKhael has said.

I think you'll have a hard time finding a kit that just includes an SD card and power supply. Most of the kits on Amazon include the Raspberry Pi itself. There's an Adafruit accessory kit that doesn't include the Pi, but has a case and a bunch of other stuff that it sounds like you don't want.

There are a bunch of options to buy individually though. Here are just a few:

• SD cards, power supply and USB cable from Adafruit (note that they sell the wall adapter and cable separately, normally these are sold together)
  
  
• SD card and power supply from Amazon.
  
  If you are comfortable installing the operating system yourself (it's not that hard at all, just follow the directions here), it might be cheaper to just get a blank SD card, I'm not sure.
  
  For the record I have this SD card and this power supply from Amazon and haven't had any issues. No guarantees that they're the cheapest/best options though.

Ok is this a good memory card??
http://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Ultra-UHS-I-Memory-SDSDUN-016G-G46/dp/B00M55BMKK/ref=sr_1_19?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421096985&sr=1-19&keywords=class+10+sdhc

How much memory do you think i'll need for photos and can you recommend a good bag?

Do you just gotta get yourself an adapter. This one will do just fine for ya and it’s only like 7 USD. You do need a certain kind of SD card to make it work cause it has to handle the high speed data transfer for the looper. I bought these ones and they’re working great.

I put the links to download the firmware in the description of that video but just for ease of access for you (or anyone) here’s the Echosystem and Reverb. They have easy-to-follow instructions on there.

What is this other device? The only way I could imagine this working is if you made the SD card a shared network drive and this other device was capable of that sort of thing.

As for a physical adapter, if the other device is USB capable, you can always toss it in an external card reader. That way you're plugging/unplugging the cable instead of the card itself.

One other option is This little doohickey that automatically syncs items on the SD card through WiFi to a PC.

At least 2 gig. If you are running the ISO off of an SD card, try to not use an off brand cheap one that may be really slow. Speed for an SD card is designated by its "Class". Class 10 being the fastest. I use this SD card, which a bit of overkill sizewise, but I can have multiple ISOs on it and it runs great.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Class-Memory-SF16UY-TQMN/dp/B00B7ID97A

Just out of interest, why not invest $70 in a 200gb microSD card (or $200 in a 512gb SD card and a microSD-SD cable if your wallet is limitless) and skip the HDD altogether? Lowers power consumption by a large amount and lowers the complexity and footprint and increases durability by removing the moving parts.

Also here's this chart about SD card compatibility with RPis

Also for syncing music I'm sure you can run an FTP server on the Pi0W and use that to synchronize music. Or if you're using a large microSD card you use the OTG port in gadget mode and set it up to let your Pi act as a USB drive (http://blog.gbaman.info/?p=699 and http://blog.gbaman.info/?p=791 though you'll need to find tutorials specifically for g_mass_storage/g_acm_ms/g_multi. Could be lots of fun if you use g_multi for g_ether and g_mass_storage and rig something up to automatically download more music when connected to your laptop. ^Though ^I ^guess ^that ^could ^also ^be ^done ^over ^WiFi... ^^nvm ^^then

I just bought the 16gb version. $12 Free shipping is pretty good.

It's most likely a T3i like @noshirtyesservice said. This discussion comes up every so often, you can find the solution for it in this thread.

Basically you'll want to get a class 10 SDHC card, not SDXC. SDXC cards have a compatibility issue with the T3i that causes this overheating like error, so a lot of people assumed their cards are simply too slow or camera overheating. I'd recommend you get the Sandisk 32GB Extreme SDHC.... note that the 64GB version is SDXC.

Also, while you'll be much better off with this setup, you'll still experience your recording stopping once your video file hits 4GB (approx 12 minutes) on a T3i so either stop it and restart it at the right time or use magic lantern (can't speak for how reliable it is overall) to add a automatically restart recording feature.

Depends what you are doing. If it's not video, then these are pretty good for 16gb cards


It will hold around 600 D800 RAW files. For video you might need something better, for sports it's all about the camera buffer. Once the buffer is full even the fastest card can't do much for you. This video shows a slow card (much slower than the one on amazon) managing 16 frames in 15 seconds while a fast one (95mbs vs the 80mbs I linked) doing 30.

They're reliable and all SanDisk Ultra and Extreme cards have a lifetime (10 years) warranty

CF cards do cost more yeah, and they fail more due to the pins than anything else. XQD I have no experience with, but interestingly SanDisk only put a one year warranty on those...

https://camelcamelcamel.com/SanDisk-Memory-Standard-Packaging-SDSDUNC-128G-GN6IN/product/B0143IISD0

Went digging out of curiosity. It appears you're right. This is just the price trend of a 128GB SDcard from amazon.

I hope that, ideally, prices will go down. Especially with this OPs new card showing up on the soon.

this is a really good one
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B7ID97A/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
edit: also apparently Transcend SD cards that arent even necessarily class 10 are really good too

From the manual.

Type One 3-in-1 slot

Cards supported • SD card

• SD High-Capacity (SDHC) card
• SD Input Output (SDIO) card
• SD Extended Capacity (SDXC) card with
Ultra High Speed (UHS)

Something like these, class 10 SD cards :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5RHBQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_gpNByb1AP1HFF

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LORO7Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_jrNByb8DHSWN0

Just choose your storage as you like from 16gb - 256gb.

>SD cards don't really perform any better in a PC card reader either. Slower flash combined with a slower standard. Comparing SD to NAND is pretty much like comparing an SSD to a USB flash drive. While they both might be useful, they're simply not in the same league when it comes to performance.

Source?

Eh, nevermind, I got off my lazy ass and decided to do some research myself. Here is an SD card I found on a quick search rated for 95MB/s read and 90MB/s write.

That is definitely in the same league as NAND for performance, and is within a margin of error of the results you linked to on XDA.

Combine that with the fact that the OP has admitted in this thread he just made it up, and I'm beginning to think this is an oft-repeated urban legend that NAND chips and SD card chips are completely different.

My Best Buy just price matched me a $50 Sandisk 32GB SDHC for $20. Check Amazon!

Edit: This is the one. It was $23.

I use a toshiba flashair memory card that allows me to put any phone on its wifi network created by the memory card, the photos transfer to the phone and can then be backed up to google photos or whatever your preferred service is. It is not the most user friendly system, so I made a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNMNg6rK2pE
You can find it at:
https://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-FlashAir-W-04-Class-Memory/dp/B0799JX7SW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524621923&sr=8-2&keywords=flashair&dpID=41Tm4r0A1TL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I am using a 16GB HP-branded SDHC card in my 3DS. I bought it over a year ago, and only paid $16 for it. it is only rated as class 4, but I've had no trouble with it, and I've been using it in my 3DS for that entire time.

If money is not a concern, I'd go with a SanDisk. Here is a 32GB SanDisk Extreme SDHC card for $35 delivered. The seller is Amazon, so you can be pretty sure it will be genuine (make sure to choose the frustration-free packaging option to get the one sold by Amazon).

This link explains the U, UHS, and Class ratings. What you'll want to look for is UHS-I/U3 cards for your camera, they're the fastest you'll be able to get at ~95MB/s which is effectively the limit at which the cards are capable of, and they're relatively inexpensive now.

Yeah, that is a really good idea, probably going to order some class 4 cards. Super cheap but infinitely valuable.

Edit: Damn 16GB class 10 cards for $6.84

I really hope they at least use full size SD... micro is a bit more than the "regular" size per GB the larger you go

That and there are things like this available...

i have the 256 version of this one and works flawless , on a side note.. if you wanna buy it just make sure you take the new version that has 170MB/s transfer speed for the same price.


https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-128GB-Extreme-UHS-I-SDSDXXY-128G-GN4IN/dp/B07H9DVLBB/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

wouldn't this be an all around better solution? (unless you have the 11")

You are correct, they are from a single youtuber, and he did mention the possibility of a 'quality control' issue on his unit. It may be that the other issues were also defects, and he just did not know it. Thank you for your help!

Bonus question, is this SD card fine for 4k?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0143IISD0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking around, there seem to be at least three other products:

• Toshiba FlashAir (Comparison with Eye-Fi - Amazon)
  
• Transcend Wi-Fi SDHC (Amazon)
  
• EZ Share SD WiFi Adapter (adds Wi-Fi to Micro SD Cards - Amazon
  
  Edit: formatting

> Alors attention, deux semaines c'est pas une fréquence, la fréquence c'est 0,5 sem-1 plutôt.

Le scientifique en moi a honte. J'ai corrigé ;)

• Clé USB : Sandisk, Samsung, Lexar, Kingston (moi j'ai celle là car si c'est petit j'arrête pas de la perdre)
  
  
• Carte mémoire : j'ai arrêté de prendre des Samsung car trop de contrefaçon. Je prends des Lexar UHS-I pour filmer en 4K. Pour mon smartphone j'ai une Sandisk je crois.
  
  
• Stockage interne : SSD. J'ai testé Samsung (série EVO), Crucial (MX200, mon SSD actuel), Sandisk. Ça marche bien, et y'a pas de raison de monter en gamme sauf si on fait vraiment de l'utilisation intensive du stockage (montage vidéo 4K...)
  
  
• Stockage externe "à l'arrache" (pas de sécurité/redondance/RAID, un disque externe quoi) le mieux est d'acheter séparément un disque 3,5" et un boitier. Moi j'ai ça + ça par exemple, pour une centaine d'euros. J'ai toujours utilisé du Seagate, du Hitachi et du Western Digital sans problème, sauf les gammes du type "eco", "WD green", "5400rpm", c'est les seuls que j'ai cramé prématurément.
  
  
• Stockage externe nomade, même principe, disque 2,5" + boitier, mais là je recommanderais un SSD pour le côté indestructible. Garde en tête qu'il peut toujours se faire voler, donc prévoir un backup si c'est des données sensibles. Samsung sinon vends des SSD externes tout petits.
  
  
• Stockage vraiment sensible (photos/vidéos de vacances à ne jamais perdre...), un NAS est de rigueur, mais c'est pas le même budget (200€ min + disques). Ça crée une redondance des données sur plusieurs disques (RAID) et monitore le tout. Je recommande les marques Synology ou QNAP. Les plus paranos pourront faire des backups en ligne (Backblaze...). Complément d'informations sur le fil précédent
  
  Dans tout les cas, respecte les trois règles de base du stockage : backup backup backup.
  
  > Sinon l'article sur quelle config Linux choisir il date de 2011, il est toujours à jour ?
  
  Son auteur était intervenu sur le fil précédent, il avait dit que c'était toujours d'actualité et je suis assez d'accord. Après Mageia est mentionnée dans l'article, et c'est un projet en grosse perte de vitesse donc je ne recommanderais pas. Et ArchLinux est manquant, alors que c'est parfait pour apprendre Linux en profondeur.
  
  Je vais quand même essayer de trouver un article plus récent. La discussion du fil précédent (même si comme d'hab chacun y va de sa distrib préférée)

Why though? How big your card? I can take over 1000 RAW photos on a 64GB card, so I can leave it in the camera if the images aren't super important.

Just buy another card it will cost you $20/£20 and you have solved the problem. The whole point of removable storage is that you can be flexible, so don't limit yourself.

$12 64GB Sandisk Ultra (slowest card but fine for photos) https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-UHS-I-Memory-SDSDUNC-064G-GN6IN/dp/B0143IIP4W

$17 64GB Sandisk extreme (Faster card) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H42L4TJ/ref=psdc_1197396_t2_B0143IIP4W?th=1

$10 Lexmark 64GB (seem just as fast as the extreme above)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012PL6K8M/

Buy two of those Lexmark cards, or even 3 32GB ones (not sure how many photos you take at once), and you're sorted.

Not a Tesla owner (yet), but would a wifi-enabled sd card be useful in this situation at all?

An appropriately classed USB 3.0 drive out of a USB 3.0 port will feel the same as booting and operating from an SSD.

For perspective, I have linux running from an SD card using a USB 3.0 SD card adapter which in total cost me $20 and it boots in exactly the same amount of time as it does off of my SSD. It's also very portable. Some motherboards don't have legacy boot mode enabled--so you have to enable that before it will boot from a USB 3.0 port--but other than that it's been running perfectly for over a year.

These 64Gb cards are what I'm using now. They work great! I bought the 32gb cards, but I can't shoot at the higher bitrate with these!

I have two of these for my 60D and they are great.

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-Flash-Memory-SDSDX-032G-X46/dp/B004Q3C98S/

Keyboard: Logitech K780. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZAK8MM/

Stand: Two of these. They're about the size of a cigarette pack and work great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TN4J1TA/

SD Card: 512GB. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XJRX01M

I assure you that you have linux devices in your house.

I just found out I have an SD card that runs linux. This guy. Something like 95% of wireless routers run linux. Nearly all "smart" tv's or any tv that has a fancy interface of any sort runs linux. Tesla's cars run linux. It's really ubiquitous. You probably use it every day and don't know it.

PG 173 of the manual references the 4GB max file limit, page 185 tells you how to change movie resolution.

You can find a copy of the manual here: http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/5/0300010905/05/eos-rebelt5i-700d-im5-en.pdf

As others have said a fast SD card is also necessary so make sure you have a class 10 card or UHS 1 card at a minimum. Something like this would work and be affordable solution: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B013CP3KZ6/ref=psdc_1197396_t2_B0143RT8OY

Will this card work? https://www.amazon.ca/Lexar-Professional-UHS-I-Rescue-Software/dp/B012PL6K8M/

It seems like it fits what you've said, but I just want to be certain. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to anything even remotely technological.

I'd recommend:

1. A 4K-capable video camera
   
2. A video tripod, slider, and desktop dolly
   
3. 3 lights (left, right, backlight) & a mini photo booth
   
   ​
   
   Camera equipment: ($650 CAD total)
   
   I'd look at the Canon PowerShot SX740, which has:
   
   

• An integrated lens
  
• Shoots 4K video
  
• Has a 40x zoom
  
• $475 CAD
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/Canon-PowerShot-Digital-Camera-Optical/dp/B07FXXVC74/
  
  Two extra batteries & a spare charger: ($55 CAD)
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/Newmowa-NB-13L-Battery-Charger-PowerShot/dp/B0752HZ8TZ/
  
  Two memory cards: ($60/ea x2 = $120 CAD)
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-128GB-Extreme-UHS-I-SDSDXXY-128G-GN4IN/dp/B07H9DVLBB
  
  ​
  
  Tripod equipment: ($450 CAD total)
  
  As far as a camera tripod goes, a good 2-way fluid-head bowl-mount tripod will do what you want: ($290 CAD)
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/Cayer-BV30L-Professional-Mid-Level-Camcorder/dp/B0784CWMP4
  
  A gliding track for sliding shots on a flat surface or tripod: ($70 USD)
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-centimeters-Stabilizer-Camcorder-Photography/dp/B06Y3MKC7C
  
  A motorized desktop dolly: ($90 CAD)
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07JJ3F12H/
  
  ​
  
  Lighting equipment: ($545 CAD total)
  
  As far as lighting goes, I'd check out an adjustable-temperature (color temp) LED set. Here's one that includes 3 lights (left, right, backlight - standard set of 3 lights): ($345 CAD)
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Pieces-Bi-Color-Video-Light/dp/B0744H2CWG/
  
  If you're going to be doing a lot of product shots, you'll want a compact photo booth. Amazon has their own brand with built-in LED lighting: ($200 CAD)
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-EP53-010723-Portable-Photo-Studio/dp/B01GIL6EU4/
  
  ​
  
  Going cheaper:
  
  If you need to go cheaper, I'd stick with the camera kit as-is, but just do this tripod instead & skip the slider & dolly: ($175 CAD)
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Monopod-Rotatable-Panoramic-Shooting/dp/B0734ZZN61/
  
  And if you're going to mostly be focusing on small game boards & cards, then you can probably just get away with the photo booth, instead of the full lighting kit. So $650 camera + $175 tripod + $200 photo booth = $1,025 CAD for everything.
  
  ​
  
  part 1/2

Is there a limit on the size or type of SD card that can be used? I'd like to order one like this one but want to confirm compatibility first.

This weekend I had an SD card fail in my 7Dii. I managed to recover most everything but has made me realise I should use the second card slot as a backup (I'm an amateur but trying to develop and shooting events so data loss is becoming more critical).

I'm interested to know how canon shooters setup the card slots for their uses. Raw to one, jpeg to the other? Full backup on both?

Also, I'm currently using these SD cards... https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Extreme-SDHC-Memory-Class/dp/B01LORO7Z6/ and was going to pair it with one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Extreme-UDMA7-CompactFlash-Card/dp/B00Q4X8O9Q/

Any suggestions on sizes/speeds and if this will affect how I should write to the 2 slots?

What speed SD cards do you use for portrait sessions and weddings?

I was thinking about it and I'm not taking high speed-multiple photo action shots so something mid-rage should be just fine.

For instances this 150MB/s
https://smile.amazon.com/Lexar-Professional-UHS-II-Software-LSD128CRBNA1000/dp/B00PLENZPC/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483371487&sr=1-4&keywords=128GB+SD+card

VS

this 80MB/s
https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-Standard-Packaging-SDSDUNC-128G-GN6IN/dp/B0143IISD0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483371487&sr=1-1&keywords=128GB+SD+card


I'm thinking the 80MB/s should be just fine.

For a 'good' setup I would triple the budget that you have, but that is quite obviously not going to happen. With that in mind, just make sure that you get these SD cards: https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Extreme-SDXC-UHS-U3-Memory/dp/B005LFT3UW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1468674883&sr=8-8&keywords=sandisk+extreme for the camera and get a Zoom H1 audio recorder.

Here is the one I bought which is cheaper and the same size. Since the speed doesn't really matter for the 3DS, it's probably best to avoid "premium" cards.

There is also /u/stkj's recommendation which is cheaper than mine.

There are also SD cards with integrated Wifi (I'm not kidding) that automatically upload images. These must be popular with photjournalists: Notice that this particular card is commonly bought with a CF adapter, since most professional DSLRs use CF cards instead of SD.

An alternate option might be this: Transcend 32 GB Wi-Fi SDHC Class 10 Memory Card (TS32GWSDHC10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A659ILQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHb1Cb58KGVX2

It’s a WiFi card, that once setup is able to transmit over WiFi to a computer instead of taking the card out at all. I don’t have a lot of experience with these, but I’ve heard ok reviews about them.

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-Frustration-Free-Packaging-SDSDU-032G-AFFP/dp/B007M51J3I

This one? I ask because I had some problems early on with memory cards not being fast enough. The 95mb/s ones were the only ones I could get to work. That being said, don't give up hope, because that was a while ago. Blackmagic recently released an update that unlocks ProRes 422, LT, and Proxy recording, so it might work perfectly fine if you take it down a notch from ProRes HQ. You can tell if the card is not fast enough because it will either not recognize the card at all, even if it's formatted correctly, or the REC indicator will start flashing while you're recording. That means it has dropped a frame.

If i'm correct, this is the fastest card the X-T20 can support.

Im looking to get 2 Sandisk extreme pro SD cards, i was browsing amazon and found two of the same(?) item:

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-UHS-I-Flash-Memory-x/dp/B005LFT3UW/ref=sr_1_4_acs_ac_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1542764375&sr=1-4-acs&keywords=sandisk+extreme+pro+64gb

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-UHS-I-Memory-SDSDXXG-064G-GN4IN/dp/B01J5RHD58/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1542764437&sr=1-2&keywords=sandisk+extreme+pro+64gb

I notice one of them has the symbol V30 on the card and is somehow a little cheaper.

Is there a difference between the two or is one just a newer version?

​

You would need a pretty big SD card to fit every 3DS game

this
generally used in things like cameras, these can be used for storage

You need a higher speed one for optimal results. This one for example

I like using SanDisk Extreme cards.

Busybox is actually used in a ton of places you might not expect. If you have a linux-based router, NAS, smart TV etc. they're probably using busybox, rather than GNU coreutils. Here is an SD card that has a built-in busybox/linux system with a wifi chip. Roku boxes use busybox. Busybox is everywhere. Android actually uses something called toolbox. Power users tend to supplement it with busybox, since toolbox doesn't do much. There are also entire (tiny embedded) linux distros that use busybox, since they keep their entire root filesystem in the initrd. On top of that, the majority of typical GNU/Linux distros actually use an initrd that uses a root filesystem that contains busybox, which does some initial setup on the system before doing a pivotroot to the real root filesystem (which uses GNU coreutils). This includes Debian (and Debian derivatives, such as Ubuntu), Red Hat and Fedora and their derivatives (such as CentOS), Gentoo, and Arch. Based on this, I'd say there are more instances of busybox out there then there are of GNU coreutils.

There aren't any complete replacements for GNU coreutils that I know of. The heirloom project was meant to be a replacement, but it hasn't seen much activity in a couple years. BSDs utils aren't that portable, from what I understand. Toybox is similar to busybox (small, single binary, basic functionality), but it doesn't have the dev community that busybox has. For a ton of use cases, however, busybox is more than enough, and much much smaller.

Ok, I used a class 10 card and its slightly faster. just a couple of seconds difference. still have to make a decision on getting a 3.0 thumb drive. http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Class-Flash-Memory-TS8GSDHC10E/dp/B003VNKNEG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376226151&sr=8-1&keywords=8gb+class+10+sd+card

I know basically nothing about SD cards, so I'm wondering: would this one work with my 3DS?
http://www.amazon.ca/SanDisk-Ultra-Class-Memory-SDSDU-032G-AFFP/dp/B007M51J3I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=37WZULWOQIJ0C&coliid=I3TGAI5FI2PLHB

I don't want to risk losing my AC: NL digital save with 150+ hours of gameplay..

I’m an amateur photographer and this happened to me once. That same evening I ordered three spare SD cards [3 for $30] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LORO7Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RU2UDbK66K2R9). I have one in my bigger camera bag, one in my smaller bag, and one in a baggie in my wallet. The wallet one never leaves my pocket, as you’d imagine, so I’m always prepared.

So a couple of these will probably do me fine?

seriously? its called the internet lol..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007M51J3I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

But thank you for the clarification that the size limit is indeed only for the hackless method.

SD can as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Wi-Fi-Class-Memory-TS32GWSDHC10/dp/B00A659ILQ

>I think from memory that class 10 cards can cause problems, which is what I had.

That's definitely not true. Class 10 is absolutely preferred over anything lower class. It's not the class that would cause problems… just the specific cards firmware itself. Being class 10 or not doesn't have anything to do with it.

I can't remember where I saw it, but I remember seeing a huge chart that listed SD card compatibility reports with all the different XBMC/Pi distros. Using that chart and my intentions, I decided to purchase this card. I've had zero incompatibilities with it.

I recommend this clip on body cam with built in LCD screen to view videos: https://www.amazon.com/RecorderGear-PC900-Control-Portable-Wearable/dp/B079J6ZPSN?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_ $89.99
I also recommend SanDisk 128GB SD card https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-Standard-Packaging-SDSDUNC-128G-GN6IN/dp/B0143IISD0/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=sandisk+128gb+sd+card&qid=1565986221&s=gateway&sprefix=sandisk+128gb+sd&sr=8-5 for 12 hours recording at $20.69 and lasts you for years.

Total: $110.68 BUT ITS WORTH IT AS EVIDENCE AGAINST BULLIES. When someone bully you show the teacher the video clip on the body can itself and use it as evidence. I use it.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-microSDXC-Standard-Packaging-SDSQUNC-128G-GN6MA/dp/B010Q57S62/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484093516&sr=8-1&keywords=128+gb+micro+sd

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-Standard-Packaging-SDSDUNC-128G-GN6IN/dp/B0143IISD0/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484093594&sr=1-10&keywords=128+gb+sd+card&refinements=p_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A13203834011

First two companies THAT I ACTUALLY KNOW ARE REPUTABLE for sd cards at the lowest price i can find. Both 40 bucks. Both dont sound bad at all to me. I guess it depends if you like digital or not.

Can you get [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-Frustration-Free-Packaging--SDSDU-032G-AFFP/dp/B007M51J3I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405547143&sr=8-3&keywords=sandisk)? Sold by Amazon directly, and it's cheaper. I have no idea how Amazon works in Canada though!

I've been using this. http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Class-Memory-SF64UY-TQMN/dp/B00B7ID9CU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397358491&sr=1-2&keywords=sony+microsdxc

Works fine.

I believe Adorama has a deal on Sandisks right now. 64 gb 90mb/sec Extreme card for $21

16 is plenty until it's not. On a 16gig card I can only shoot like 250 photos with my d800.

/nevermind - get the 32gb Sandisk from Amazon for $11 or whatever. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013CP3KZ6/ref=s9_nps_hd_bw_bCu3e7X_g147_i5?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-11&pf_rd_r=HNCX31N30513516J9NK8&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a918920c-1e44-57ef-b6f3-a1d02a626925&pf_rd_i=11821938011

Mountain Lion has resume built-in. Just shut down as normal. You should see a "Reopen windows' dialog box pop up. As long as that's checked, it should reboot with what you were doing.

I'd also recommend replacing that USB key with a SDHC or SDXC card. You could then keep that permanently in your Air (it'll stick out a bit, but far less than a usb key). A 32gb or 64gb Class 10 card is fairly cheap.

Price listed is $12.99. Amazon is a few cents cheaper and available on prime: http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Class-Flash-Memory-TS8GSDHC10E/dp/B003VNKNEG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1310489488&sr=8-3

No, I have a good SD card. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007M51J3I

I use this older Sony 64gb card, works well but they make much faster versions now.

This sd card because I use my 3ds as a music player but there isn't enough space on the default card to put all the music I want to listen to on there.

$40.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-Standard-Packaging-SDSDUNC-128G-GN6IN/dp/B0143IISD0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484312575&sr=8-1&keywords=128+sd+card

There are 512GB SD cards readily available

tu as bien fait de me rappeler ça, c'est un vendeur pro avec 9k ventes, ça devrait le faire mais ça vient de chine donc 2 semaines de livraison.. Sur amazon

Si t'es pas pressé, la mémoire c'est un bon produit à acheter soldé.

i dig these http://www.amazon.com/PNY-64GB-Elite-Performance-UHS-1/dp/B00HIKBW1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410470107&sr=8-1&keywords=pny+64

I imagine these being long shoots, so you would need a lot of space. You can buy 6 of these and stay under budget.

$42.93 Raspberry Pi

+ $5.79 HDMI cable

+ $10.77 WiFi Adapter

+ $13.59 Case

+ $5.90 USB Wall Charger

+ $8.95 Memory Card 8 GB

+ $17.94 Wireless Keyboard

======================================
$105.87

... and now you can begin to customize it

I actually purchased the same one that someone recently posted was on sale. http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Class-Memory-SF64UY-TQMN/dp/B00B7ID9CU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394209355&sr=1-1&keywords=sony+64+SD+card

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Class-Memory-SF16UY-TQMN/dp/B00B7ID97A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394244358&sr=1-3&keywords=sony+sdhc

Heres the 16gig for $10 too!

Buy a 16GB or 32GB card and have everything on one. It's the only rational option. They're cheap. http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Class-Memory-SF16UY-TQMN/dp/B00B7ID97A/

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-Frustration-Free-Packaging-SDSDU-032G-AFFP/dp/B007M51J3I/ref=psdc10_t1_B007M54E1M_B007M51J3I

i use this, works great

The price of Sony cards has gone down recently. The SDXC ones aren't listed on the elinux site but I imagine they would work without issue.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-Standard-Packaging-SDSDUNC-128G-GN6IN/dp/B0143IISD0/ref=asc_df_B0143IISD0/

https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-Performance-512GB-P-SDX512U3H-GE/dp/B00XJRX01M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487327250&sr=8-2&keywords=1tb+sdxc

I was asking the same question but i went ahead and order this one

http://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-Performance-Speed-Class/dp/B00HIKBW1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413342162&sr=8-1&keywords=pny+64gb

It is, assuming it's the same card: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0143IISD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IQw-BbNNYDCHT

Possible alternative:
https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Wi-Fi-Class-Memory-TS32GWSDHC10/dp/B00A659ILQ

Combining your idea with the comment above, how do you feel about a grab bag consisting of: an expansion board, a USB hub, and an SB card?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9DVLBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JX-LDbV81SX15

This is the card I use

Both the 64 gig and the 128 gig

512Gb SD Card?

https://www.amazon.com/Transcend-Wi-Fi-Class-Memory-TS32GWSDHC10/dp/B00A659ILQ

https://nerdtechy.com/best-wifi-sd-card

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VNKNEG

~ 10 to 15s to get an ssh session over wifi

Full-fledged simple web browser. Add external HD to get a basic home server.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
Motherboard/CPU| Raspberry Pi Rev.B| $35.00
Case| Raspberry Case| $6.46
Power Supply| USB Power Supply| $5.79
Storage| 8GB Class 10 SD Card| $8.95
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $56.20
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-31 08:08 EDT-0400 |

Wifi SD Card

I just pulled the trigger on this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007M51J3I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$10 cheaper, I'm guessing you wont really be able to tell the difference with the 3ds.

$95> Sandisk Extreme Pro 95mb/s

or

~~ the $35 LEXAR SDXC 90mb/s~~ Nevermind, that was not the write speed of the lexar

I just bought this and it works:

SanDisk 128GB Ultra UHS-I Class 10 SDXC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0143IISD0/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HIKBW1G/

Here is the mobile version of your link

I'm buying two 32gb Sandisk cards. They're not a huge deal, but I need them eventually anyway.

I think you have microSD and SD cards confused. This is the highest capacity microSD card out right now. A 512GB prototype is out but will cost $1000. This is just the SD card. A 1TB prototype is out, but will cost $750 or so.

Pics!

Parts list:

[2.5" to 3.5" Laptop IDE Hard Disk HDD Adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010MKARA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_YO8wtVm8scvfU)

[SanDisk 128GB Ultra UHS-I Class 10 SDXC Memory Card, Black, Standard Packaging] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143IISD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_djrZQnUHx5fIx)

[Secure Digital SD SDHC SDXC MMC Memory Card to IDE 2.5" 2.5 Inch 44P 44 Pin Male Adapter Converter, SD 3.0] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DGNYXQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_nRyMwjVWix8Cg)

24" 40-Pin 80-Wire Ultra ATA 2-Drive Ribbon Cable

These would be the right ones? (Though may not go for Amazon based on fakes...) https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Extreme-SDXC-UHS-I-Memory/dp/B005LFT3UW/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543354560&sr=1-11&keywords=sandisk%2Bextreme%2Bpro%2B64gb&th=1

I don't think SD cards are too small.

I think the people who would need more than 500GB are in the minority, and that most people would be fine with that much. The PS4 and X1 both have 500GB HDDs and you don't see very many people complain that it's not enough and get a bigger one.

Well that's the thing, isn't it? How do you know that "literally all it is is a charger"?

All it takes is an unpatched physical connection exploit, and Eve has all your e-mails and passwords.

These days, almost every airport has free wifi, and we can make really fuckin' small wifi adapters; you can deploy a bunch of these to an airport lobby, and then remotely update them with all the latest and greatest in firmware hacks at your leisure.

TSA agents get caught stealing shit all the time; what makes you think the electricians who install these things in airports are above suspicion?

Eu já tive problemas com toshiba e com kingstons, mas é tudo uma questão de sorte (ou azar no caso).

Tenho uma gaveta cheia de kingstons em que metade não funcionam e os outros são demasiado lentos e/ou pequenos para a utilização (2~4gb). Por outro lado o que comprei quando comprei esta maquina (que também é kingston) ainda funciona impecável, mas não serve as minhas necessidades por 2 motivos: o primeiro é que cada foto que tiro fica a ocupar cerca de 30mb por isso acabo por só conseguir por pouco mais de 100fotos num cartão de 4gb e o segundo é a rapidez, não quero que a velocidade do cartão provoque bottleneck por isso prefiro que seja exageradamente rápido... o que também é importante principalmente quando meto aquilo em fotos sequenciais para não ter de aguardar tempo nenhum entre chapas.

SanDisk não costumo usar, mas já que costumas dá-me a tua opinião sobre este, caso possas/saibas: https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Extreme-SDXC-UHS-U3-Memory/dp/B005LFT3UW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1466438039&sr=8-7&keywords=UHS-1+U3+64gb

é o que estou a pensar comprar para substituir este caso não o consiga ressuscitar.

I believe I may have a spare one of these lying around.

https://www.amazon.ca/Lexar-Professional-UHS-I-Rescue-Software/dp/B012PL6K8M/

Would that work by chance?

I found this

I doubt if it can actually reach those speeds in the Pi.

Dude.

8GB class 10 SDHC cards are selling for $6.75 each. You need to buy about five of 'em. Maybe more. And keep 'em in your camera bag.

You should never have to (and you should never) erase a memory card during a shoot.

Heck, 16GB cards are only $10.68. Buy a few of those instead.

> it will require that you purchase a 32GB+ SD card along with the game just so you can play it.

people will be SO mad

>https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Elite-Performance-Speed-P-SDH32U195-GE/dp/B00WWBCQCK

64 is 20

I can't get Nintendont (vWii) to read my USB.

I am using a SanDisk 32GB Extreme SDHC card (https://amzn.to/2k82Nrr) formatted using FAT32 with a 32KB cluster size using Primary MBR. I have formatted the SD card using EaseUS Partition Master and plugging it into a Kingston USB 3.0 Memory Card Reader (https://amzn.to/2wVjVdn) plugged into the top back USB with 1 USB lead, I have also tried a Y cable and plugging it into the back next to the port I mentioned earlier.

No matter what, I am constantly getting the error message "USB FAT could not be opened".

How do I fix this error?

Ah which link is bad? I see the post linking to this 32GB card which is what I run DotA on today.

Hey,

I agree with the Acer Aspire 1, but it isn't too powerful so I wouldn't expect much more out of it other than programming/general use. The storage is a bit small, so you can grab a 128 GB SD card to store everything but Windows 10 operating system. It has a 14" display. It is sadly not a 2-in-1.

0. Repairing it might even be something you could do yourself, if you wanted to try it. Here's a video guide on how to take it apart, and here's a text-and-picture based one. The only problem I foresee is the battery seems to be soldered on, and you'd probably definitely want to change that; but once it's open anyone with the ability to solder could that for you, and it's only taken apart with screws.
   
   
1. It's probably the screen that's messed up, if you can see the contents but with no backlight. I literally just got an iPod (Classic) put back together today that a screen I ordered had no backlight working, and I had to order another one which worked fine.
   
   
2. Probably. Hard drives and batteries are the most common failures.
   
   
3. iTunes wouldn't recognize it, if the hard drive has failed.
   
   
4. I have no idea what the three beeps are, but they're definitely a POST code failure response, to tell you something is wrong.
   
   
5. You can replace the hard drive with a CF, but those are expensive for even the most modest storage sizes. It'd be much cheaper and more effective to get a SD to CF adapter card and an SD card which would run you $40 USD for 128GBs, where it'd be $40 USD to just get 64GBs via CF, and $70 to get the equivalent 128GBs via CF.