Reddit mentions: The best security & surveillance accessories

We found 926 Reddit comments discussing the best security & surveillance accessories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 311 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

12. Rackstuds Rack Mounting System, 100-pack

    Features:
  • Bafo Rackstuds Smart Rack Mount System 100-pack (red)
Rackstuds Rack Mounting System, 100-pack
Specs:
Height1.38 Inches
Length7.48 Inches
Weight0.77 Pounds
Width6.3 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on security & surveillance accessories

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where security & surveillance accessories are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Security & Surveillance Accessories:

u/ThMogget · 4 pointsr/oculus

Kiwi straps suck. Mamut Grips are best for big hands, but are good. AMVR are the best grips. I own both grips. I threw the kiwi things in the garbage.

The silicon interface depends on the person. It doesn't sandpaper your face like the stock one, and feels nice and cool for the first 5 minutes, but it feels awful once it gets sweaty - imagine a wet rubber wedgie on your face. I currently have the VRCover 'facial interface set' with the 'comfort' pad that is pleather. It isn't perfect, but its the best I have found.

I hear some good things about the Studioform strap, but it looks hot and one more thing to mess with. I went went with the Vive Deluxe Audio Strap, but that costs money. I ripped the headphones out of it, so I just have stock audio. I love the quick-adjust thing on the DAS like a hard hat - makes switching people so much faster and better.

Then there is the cable. I don't do the Oculus Link, but even so I have kids and I have heard of people ruining the cable charge port on the Quest yanking on it. I got one of those magnetic USB adapters to reduce the risk of port damage.

All of the goodies need to fit in a case, and I love this thing - its super sturdy and fits it all without being too big.

Then if you want to play in the dark you need a good IR light so it is dark for your wife to sleep but the Quest can still see.

u/amoliski · 1 pointr/Vive

Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.

I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.

For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.

As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.

Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.

---

As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(

u/MattVanAndel · 2 pointsr/oculus

Although Robo Recall was a bit too arcadey for my tastes, it's still very fun and free, but Lone Echo... omfg, Lone Echo is amazing. Absolute must-play.

I also recommend Wilson's Heart, Obduction, and Robinson (which just got Touch support!) if you are into VR adventure games.

If you are into racing, and have all the right gear (seat + wheel + pedals), check out Dirt Rally and Project CARS 2, as well. They are incredible. I've noticed that people don't tend to have nausea problems with racing games when they are using a seat and wheel.

If you are ready to step things up, Elite: Dangerous is the one VR experience that keeps me coming back more than any other (Dirt Rally comes in second). You can easily spend a lot of money on it, though. Add a HOTAS setup, Voice Commander, and a VC voice pack, and you've added $300 to your purchase price... but once you do, it's no longer a game... you are genuinely living in space. I don't even really think of it as a game anymore. It's a second life. It's real.

Oh and as others have mentioned... don't leave your Rift near a window. Those damn fresnel lenses can damage your screen like a magnifying glass focusing on an ant... and Oculus will NOT repair it, not even for a fee.

Also, I strongly recommend mounting your cameras to a wall or ceiling. These are the mounts I use and recommend: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/

I've found just about any USB3 extender cable works, but apparently, some people's motherboards don't output enough power for longer cables. If you run into that problem, use a USB3 or USB-C (if your mobo has one) based, independently powered hub. I've found you can get away with 2 cameras running over a single powered hub connected to a USB3 port, or 4 cameras connected to a hub connected to a USB-C port.

Here's the USB3 hub I recommend to everyone with power issues: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/

Edit: Oh, and if you already have Alien: Isolation, there's now a mod that restores the game's original VR support for CV. Keep in mind, it still has plenty of rough edges and is gamepad only, but playing through that in VR is one my most cherished gaming memories.

u/HowDoIDoFinances · 1 pointr/oculus

Opposite corners, up as high as you can, so they're looking down at you seems to work best if you want 360 coverage with 2 sensors. Unfortunately, that'll probably require you to get extension cables, but they aren't that expensive. The front facing setup that Oculus recommends is really fast and really easy, but losing the ability to turn around in VR really hurts the experience, imo.

If you are able to buy a couple extension cables, I'd really consider trying to get them all the way up in a top corner of the room. You may want to consider a third sensor if you really want to go full room scale, too. I have three sensors mounted up high in 3 out of the 4 corners of my room (2 in front, one in back) and tracking is essentially flawless. It's a little bit of extra work to actually mount something to the wall, but it's worth it if you're setting it up for the long run. I used these mounts.

Having extension cables also gives you extra room to work with so that you can properly route the cables in a neat way instead of having them just hanging loose on the wall. I bought some cable concealers and they pretty much blend into the wall, so you really just see the sensor itself. Looks a lot nicer.

u/ragingcomputer · 1 pointr/homeautomation

My comment was really targeted toward OpenHAB. If you're running Wink, I think you'd be better off getting one of these GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener. Amazon reviews are pretty solid and Home Depot was selling them for use with Wink for a while. I believe it comes with a tilt sensor, which is probably easier to use than boogering a regular door sensor on like I did. Probably a solid bet. I would have bought one of these if OpenHAB supported the z-wave barrier class.

As far as the MIMOLite... I can't tell you for sure as I run OpenHAB, but it looks like it should work according to these links: post in reddit /r/homeautomation and Amazon review

I'm using a Go Control / Nortek Controls / Linear WADWAZ-1 to sense my garage door. I snagged one of the WNK01-21KIT kits from Home Depot on sale.

I've also got a Honeywell Ademco 958 overhead door contact on my other door that should work as the door contact listed in fortrezz's diagram linked in my previous comment, if you wanted to sort of wire it.

For Wink, by the time you buy both the mimolite and the door contact (wired or z-wave) you might as well just buy the go controls device and get the benefit of secured z-wave barrier class.

u/KungFuRemi · 3 pointsr/TinyWhoop

Special thank you to the crew at Tiny Whoop who consistently provide excellent customer and community support even though, someone at fulfillment may be a little colorblind hehehe. Without you guys and /u/JessePFPV this sub probably wouldn't exist!

 

24K Magic

Frame - Cockroach

Canopy - Tiny Whoop Razor skin 1of1 by Ben@TW!

Flight Controller - FuriousFPV AcroWhoop v2 FrSky

Motors - NewBeeDrone BDR Gold Edition 19,700 KV

Props - Rakon Heli Tri Blade

Power - Power Whoop 2.0 JST-PH

VTx- Crazepony 700TVL AIO Camera Detachable

Support Mods - Clear rubberbands to hide motor wires, 3M VHB tape for VTx mounting, dab of hot glue for Camera mounting

 

Dry weight = 19 grams flat

 

4+ minutes of flight time with Crazepony 230mah LiHV batteries and Crazepony 260mah/short LiHV

 

P.S. My kids thank you for all the candy!

 

u/limpymcforskin · 1 pointr/SmartThings

Another thing to mention is that there are community made scripts that allow you to alter the parameters of this flood sensor. All the parameters and what they do are even in the manual for it but it doesn't seem to be a native feature on smartthings. I think you can natively on Fibaro's own hub device. I would also mention that this flood sensor is unique in that it can be hardwired for power and the battery would act as a backup. It's quite easy to do but does require drilling a hole in the top part of the case.

You can get something cheap like this https://www.amazon.com/TNTE-Adapter-Power-Supply-2-1mm/dp/B0169AY3JI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501307555&sr=8-2&keywords=dc+wall+wart

and either splice the wire to get the positive and negative or you could buy a bare wire adapter like this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJAW9F4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I would also mention that a key benefit of doing this is that it also enables the Fibaro flood sensor to act as another transmitter for your Z Wave network. It doesn't do this when on battery

u/James-Lerch · 2 pointsr/videosurveillance

If it were me I'd start adding some extra IR illumination. The 'Ghosting' issue is the camera doing long exposure per video frame and then 'stacking' video frames to improve signal to noise, which it does at the cost of increased motion blur.

Adding more IR light will improve this situation.

I installed one each of the following as en experiment and was rather impressed by the difference it made in my situation: (Not a sponsor, just a consumer)

24watt Wide Angle (good to about 20 meters)
24watt Wide Angle IR Spot light (good to about 40 meters)

​

Given the area you're interested in and its distance I would think two or three of either would light that sidewalk up like a stadium when viewed thru the security camera while appearing pitch black to the human eye.

u/Davidf68 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Mounts from Amazon at a cost of £11.20 for 4. And using a 10 MTR active usb 2 extension which so far works great.

sourcingmap® 1/4" Metal Wall Mount Bracket Black for CCTV Security Camera https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVCKZZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0Go8ybWV110QR

UGREEN USB Extension Cable 10m USB 2.0 Active Repeater USB Male to Female Lead With Signal Amplification Active Cord for Printers,Keyboards, Game Cons https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B2HP3A2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_OC1lA3PqdWcPs

I will fill the holes with white decorates calk just to neaten it up

u/robustability · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

This will probably work for you:

http://www.rfcontrolsystem.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=470&products_id=579

In the manual it doesn't fully tell you where to put the power leads. Hook it up like in the youtube video linked by the other guy. If the directions are backwards, reverse the motor. Red is + and black is -.

You will need a 12 V DC power supply. Often called wall warts or wall plugs. You can get one on Amazon, Fry's, Best Buy, etc. Here's the first one I found, I have no idea about whether it's a good brand or good price or anything. Read the reviews. It's a 2 Amp which exceeds the minimum I calculated earlier, but you could go for a 3 amp as well:

http://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Adapter-Regulated-Supply-Copper/dp/B00PJZQDDO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457316150&sr=1-1&keywords=12+V+wall+plug


You will need the little plug that take DC power as input and outputs a red and black wire. Here's an example:

http://www.amazon.com/5-5mm-2-1mm-Female-Connector-Camera/dp/B005CMP434/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk

You will also need wire to go from the plug to the board, and since there are multiple points on the board to connect to +12V and 0V, you will need jumper wires to spread to multiple terminals like she does in the video. So you need something like this.

Finally to cut and strip the insulation from the wires you will need something like this.

u/Murfgon · 1 pointr/videosurveillance

WDR is great for certain situations sadly not this one, what you need is more IR lighting.
Here’s a quick video about WDR
https://www.axis.com/en-ca/technologies/forensic-wdr .
There are some cameras that will work in very low light conditions the Axis cameras with their lightfinder technology is great or the starlight cameras are amazing failing that something like https://www.amazon.com/Univivi-Infrared-Illuminator-Waterproof-Security/dp/B01G6K407Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=ir+illuminator&qid=1568064140&s=gateway&sr=8-4 would help a lot , try a magazine with a face on it put it on your vehicle so you can see how good it looks. Though you don’t seem to have a definition problem just a lighting issue. Hope this is some help to you.

u/Beep2Bleep · 5 pointsr/OculusQuest

I had it at roughly 4 ft off the ground aimed parallel to the ground this seemed to give the best result.

I wanted to give some information on my testing using IR transmitters to create a play space. I bought the "80ft" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZYG89D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 transmitter and attempted to use it to create a full size 25x25 foot play space.

It will let you do that you can get a full 25x25 foot play space however it's only front facing. The issue is when you turn your back to the transmitter it doesn't see enough to continue tracking and will drop you out of the experience you are in. If you limit yourself to about 10x10 feet then you can get 360 degree tracking (as it can see enough when you back is turned to keep tracking). It seems like I might be able to grab some spare cellphone flashes on the back side to get a full 25x25 foot play space. It seems reasonable that the "200ft" transmitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0771HSGH4/ref=emc_b_5_i should be able to give you a full 25x25 foot 360 degree playspace.

u/odwdinc · 1 pointr/Multicopter

true i'm running the Gemfan 2035 Props 4 Blades getting ALL-UP 88g with 450mha 2S, D1104 7500KV about to move to the DYS BE1102 10000KV for a bit more thrust ratio, worth checking out.

I wold look over this site for build help, has all was be helpful for finding proper combinations.
https://www.ecalc.ch/xcoptercalc.php?ecalc&lang=en

.

as for measurements the standoff length in the camera pod =~ 17mm to 17.5mm.

They will hold the camera, not relay pinch just holds nicely.
meant to hold something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Wolfwhoop-600TVL-Transmitter-Antenna-Quadcopter/dp/B06XJMQQ6Y


I wanted to go with an osd so i opted for https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072L21RPL
still works well just need a bit of hot glue to keep it form rotating on me.

Photo of setup

u/Masterep01 · 1 pointr/wyzecam

IR Blasters are directional Infrared Radiation (IR), a spectrum of light that's mostly invisible to human eyes but the Wyzecams can use to record its surrounding in the dark. In other words, video recordings in the dark, look like clear, bright, daytime, black and white scenes.

These light sources use electricity but it also has sensors that turn "on" the light when dark, and on average illuminates about 12 hours everyday depending on its installed geographic location. The longer its light is on the more money it takes operator - but it makes a huge difference for video recording when installed correctly.

With the Wyzecam and sensors triggering the Wyze smart outlets that now controls my IR blasters, it only turns on as needed, which reduces the energy cost, by my guesstimate of 99%, which translates ruffly into $18.92 savings per year for my current energy rates of 27¢ per kWh on Oahu.

I have been using this light fixture with no failures or operational issues.

My biggest lesson with IR blasters was that the light source cannot be too strong or the details get "washed-out" like a person's face. How the IR blaster is aimed takes trial and error to get it right for each installation but the results are worthwhile.

u/IrishVixen · 2 pointsr/Abode

I don't have the video cam, so I can't offer up specific recs, but there are a number of mini/pocket sized tripods with small ball swivel heads that might help if you're wanting to set it on a shelf or table. Manfrotto offers a pretty solid one, or some of the ones sold as cell phone tripods might work if they aren't so lightweight that they fall over easily.

Alternatively, something like this could also work, though depending on camera weight or the center of gravity, you'd probably need to screw it down to the shelf or to a board painted to match: https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Mounting-Installation-Surveillance/dp/B001D49TU4/

u/fupluver · 1 pointr/homeautomation

About a year ago I posted on Raspberry Pi projects how to on one I made. I used a Raspberry Pi. Here it is:

I solved your problem in my own application 3 different ways (I love redundancy, I love redundancy) that are completely different than the way you are looking to solve it. So I'm not going to answer your question, I'm going to answer mine and hope it applies to you.

My solution is on a Pi0W with a relay that shorts the switch on a hacked garage remote to open the door. This is also a single button trigger and I believe similar to your application. I heavily modified this solution to create a webpage that allow me to press a button on the screen to trigger the button. http://www.instructables.com/id/Raspberry-Pi-Garage-Door-Opener/

Solution #1 I have a webcam set up in my garage pointing at the garage door. This in itself is a full solution because I can always just look at the feed to monitor the door. But that's not enough for me. The model camera I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004P8K24W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It has a url which publishes a snapshot of what the camera sees. This url can be embedded in the "button web page" to publish an image of the garage on the same page as the button <img src="url" />. 1-stop convenience. To turn the snapshot into meta-video I refresh the page every 3 seconds <meta http-equiv="refresh" content="3">. Essentially allowing me to press the button and watch the progress of the door. All in one place.

Solution #2: I picked up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006M1I1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and again heavily modified this guide: http://www.ryansouthgate.com/2015/08/10/raspberry-pi-door-sensor/ To determine whether the door is open or closed. I run the script at boot in a terminal window and a bonus effect is I can effectively log the door status.

I incorporated this into my webpage by using this: https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=58267

I added this code to the "open" condition to email me if the door is open: http://naelshiab.com/tutorial-send-email-python/

My modifications basically pulled all this information together into my "button web site" Action, view, and response on the door. Basically they were cut and paste and mostly done in HTML.

Finally not sure how new you are to this but there are other factors to get this all to work: OpenVPN - to hide everything behind my firewall and expose none of it to the internet. I vpn in and it's all as if I'm on my home network. no-ip - dynamic dns so I can resolve my vpn to a name rather than an IP which periodically changes.

u/Octoplow · 3 pointsr/Vive

Thanks! Please let me know what you find. Luckily, my son just got back from college ...with a digital calipers.

They confirm power AFTER the breakout is 1.3mm (inner dia.) x 3.5mm (outer dia.) like this cable I'm using:
http://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-HDCA12-Extension-Foscam-Wireless/dp/B00FT9VW0O

And the power IN to the breakout appears to be 1.3mm (inner dia.) x 3.75mm (outer dia.) And this roughly agrees with my caveman assessment: it feels like I can cram the breakout A/C adapter into the extension cable above, but I can't quite - even with some force.

But, I don't see an extension cable like than anywhere. Mouser has a 1.3x3.7 connector, and a few 1.3x3.8 connectors. 1.35 inner diameter also seems to be popular. This stuff is all new to me.

u/deceptiveat70 · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Landscape edging: https://thd.co/1iWcILO

LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQV6Q4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lBEgzbGCKJFKQ

Power supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KM3OIAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dCEgzbZV2F3W3

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CM30TQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WCEgzb9027XB0

I used contact cement to help keep the LEDs on the edging.

I'll add pictures of the whole deal tonight.

Glad Y'all like it! 😊

u/Anth916 · 3 pointsr/oculus

> Also note that their maximum recommended area is 8'x8'. And in the link from support the maximum distance between sensors is 14'.

Yeah, I saw that, but I imagine that they are underestimating the range to be on the safe side. I guess I might just have to experiment with the install. It's going to be a bit of a pita to have to experiment, but oh well. I ordered three of these mounts:
https://www.amazon.com/OdiySurveil-Security-Housing-Bracket-Camera/dp/B00R96X9DS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500067030&sr=8-4&keywords=cctv+mount

So, I'll be able to use these mounts to angle them down towards the play space better. (I currently have them on maximum tilt, but I still don't think they are angled down far enough) besides currently being too far away as well.

u/diminutive_lebowski · 1 pointr/oculus

I've ordered some of these Command Picture Hanging strips and a couple security camera mounts that I'm going to try to use with the Rift's sensor(s).

The picture hanging strips should allow for moving the second sensor from one corner to another if necessary. E.g. game "A" works best with two front mounted sensors but game "B" works best with opposite corner mounted sensors... In theory I should be able to detach a camera and reattach it in the desired location without much fuss and without making a lot of holes in the wall.

u/mikegriffin84 · 1 pointr/oculus

I think Oculus said these things because they didn't want to scare casuals away. It is much easier to grasp the setup when they tell you to set them on your desk. Also initially Oculus started with one sensor. Then touch came and you had two sensors. Then you had the option of buying 3rd and 4th sensors. My point is with one sensor the closer the better because it can't triangulate your position and tracking accuracy drops drastically with distance. With 2 accuracy is better and distance because the system can much more accurately track at distance. With 3 and 4 sensors tracking can keep track of your distance from each sensor and position within that 3d space amazingly well.

With each step up from one sensor the effective tracking distance is increased and tracking at any given distance is improved in terms of robustness.

Trust us. Put your sensors as high as you can. You can mount them with these upside down in the corners of your room: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Use these extensions cables for the sensors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you need even more length I have had luck with this extension but I only use it on my furthest sensor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFFL2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Always keep your cabling as short as possible. The first extension I posted can be used on all sensors without issues. I haven't had any issues with the second 33ft extension but I would not attempt to use that one on all sensors unless I had too.

u/AchillesXOne · 2 pointsr/oculus

I have my 3-sensor setup at head level... about 6'. Initially I was going to place them much higher (around 8'); but came to the realization I would be losing a little range in the bargain. It wouldn't be much, but given the size of my playspace, it was borderline achievable, so I played it safe. I rarely encounter tracking issues.

I'm not much a fan of tripods. I find them cumbersome and tacky. I also don't relish the idea of wires hanging out all over the place, or having to reconfigure or reset every time I want to jump in to a session.

I suggest you find a weekend to spend some time measuring the dimensions of your area, invest in some cord concealers at the local hardware place (you can paint them), pick up the recommended USB extension cables (if necessary), and purchase some cheap wall mounts.

The result is functional, an aesthetically pleasing.

My setup - image 1

My setup - image 2

My setup - image 3

Edit: Formatting


u/capability_smack · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Hi.

Essentially I need to connect this to a simple constant current circuit (boost converter with LM317).

The input to the circuit (via the boost converter) is a screw terminal. So I'm trying to connect the power supply (see above link) to the circuit, via a screw terminal.

I'm essentially looking for a connector like this, but the correct size (5.5x2.5mm), and capable of handling 10A (I will be drawing just under 8A but am keen to derate the circuit wherever possible for safety and longevity of components).

u/wouldnotjointhedance · 1 pointr/Vive

Here is a very old thread about the sizes for the power connectors: https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4e3qft/size_of_dc_power_connector_for_link_box/d3pmpyw?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x

​

>Thanks! Please let me know what you find. Luckily, my son just got back from college ...with a digital calipers.
>
>They confirm power AFTER the breakout is 1.3mm (inner dia.) x 3.5mm (outer dia.) like this cable I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-HDCA12-Extension-Foscam-Wireless/dp/B00FT9VW0O
>
>And the power IN to the breakout appears to be 1.3mm (inner dia.) x 3.75mm (outer dia.) And this roughly agrees with my caveman assessment: it feels like I can cram the breakout A/C adapter into the extension cable above, but I can't quite - even with some force.
>
>But, I don't see an extension cable like than anywhere. Mouser has a 1.3x3.7 connector, and a few 1.3x3.8 connectors. 1.35 inner diameter also seems to be popular. This stuff is all new to me.

u/Pteroc · 3 pointsr/oculus

i dont think thats very necessary. though, yeah, might as well. i know exactly what he's talking about. any security camera mount will do.

here are the ones i got.

https://www.amazon.com/OdiySurveil-Security-Housing-Bracket-Camera/dp/B00R96X9DS/ref=pd_sim_63_34?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00R96X9DS&pd_rd_r=AKK3TTZB98ME2QCMTB4J&pd_rd_w=o7hH7&pd_rd_wg=jHVox&psc=1&refRID=AKK3TTZB98ME2QCMTB4J

you can get them in the perfect spot and angle, easy.

u/closet_otaku_desu · 7 pointsr/AnimeFigures

I'll link the full order:

u/techmanj · 2 pointsr/Nest

Definitely the plant.
I'ma nest pro and install lots of cameras.
Once thing I always look out for is how close it is to a tree or plants.
Because if it's too closer to a plant all the ir light will reflect off the plant and make it bright.

If you trim the plant half way it should get you a brighter view of your car.

Or... If you have room and power I've had other clients buy a ir light.
Where you can put in in middle area and it will brighten up your front yard by a lot at night.. but is a little eh asthetics wise.
Univivi IR Illuminator 90 Degree Wide Angle 8-LEDs IR Infrared Light Security Cameras. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075F7NV56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J.kyDbS19GW0H

u/nestechs · 2 pointsr/Vive

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

u/TrevEB · 1 pointr/oculus

The room is 11'x12'
No bed however there is a couch which takes up some valuable space.
I used wall bushings that I sawed partially in half with a dremel so that I could slip the cable into it without having to cut the USB head off. I also had to soak the bushing is boiling water to soften it up a bit for bending. It makes the hole in the ceiling very clean. The hole itself was drilled just wide enough to get the USB head through. I'll post some pics soon of the wires. :)
Here is a list of parts.
Ceiling Mounts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wall Bushings
https://www.amazon.com/Single-Feed-Thru-Bushings-package-CIMPLE/dp/B01EKG1K1W/ref=pd_cp_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01EKG1K1W&pd_rd_r=69VB8HQYJYJ1ABYZDDNH&pd_rd_w=kvX5u&pd_rd_wg=VNk2q&psc=1&refRID=69VB8HQYJYJ1ABYZDDNH
StarTech 4 port PCI Express
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 16 feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/TrefoilHat · 2 pointsr/oculus

Yes, you can set the two sensors up diagonally in each corner of the play area.

Optimally, they would be mounted up high, angled down, to minimize occlusion from your body. This could be on a bookshelf, a tripod, or cheap camera mounts (the sensor stand unscrews so you can screw it into a standard mount). They don't need to be the same height, either.

If you can't do that, then having them at desk height gets you pretty decent 360 tracking too. You might notice some drops where your hands shake a bit.

I have about a 10x10' space, 3 cameras, and wall/ceiling mounted two of them. Tracking is just about perfect.

u/afternoonjoke · 1 pointr/flashlight

Would love one of these... Univivi IR Illuminator 90 Degree Wide Angle 8-Leds IR Infrared Light for Security Cameras. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075F7NV56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hgq8AbK209BTZ lolol

Edit. If that doesn't work this time.. then I guess this one

Manker E02 Best AAA Flashlight 180 Lumen Right Angle Keychain Light Mini EDC LED Flashlight with High CRI Nichia 219C, Reversible Clip & Magnet Tail - Black Color https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071J3TB9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2hq8Ab9PEPRMZ

u/Phludd · 1 pointr/oculus

I have all 4 of my sensors mounted 7 ft up, I have switched back to only using 3 till I get this issue resolved.

I tried using the cable matters 16ft active USB 3.0 cable for one of my fronts sensors but it wouldnt detect as 3.0, so I swapped it for the 10ft passive one and it worked fine.

Here are the mounts and cable I have had success with:
Mount-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft USB 3.0 cable-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/mightyarrow · 1 pointr/wyzecam

First, describe your planned mounting location as it pertains to weather exposure.

Covered? Not covered? Temps?

There are "weatherproof" enclosures/housings out there but none of them are truly weatherproof since they require holes for cables, don't have sealant rings, etc.

I bought these for my setup and it seems to work fine so far. Full disclosure it has not yet rained and I installed them 2 days ago, and they are under an overhand alongside some floodlights. But the reviews on Amazon indicate they work well.

If your setup involves being quite a ways back from the nearest overhang, you may not even need an enclosure.

u/Xenolith234 · 2 pointsr/oculus

If you have the room/ability, I'd mount the sensors on the ceiling or corners of the room. I got two (VideoSecu 2 Pack 2-6 inch Metal Wall Ceiling Mounts Adjustable Pan Tilt Video Camera Mounting Brackets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D49TU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_bYfm6J1rX8VQH) to mount them cheaply and securely, and three (Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_z9Cm45OtYiwYz). Purchasing a third sensor nets you a USB extension cable, and I also got an HDMI extension cable to give my Rift some extra room. Sorry for all the links! The ceiling setup gives me pretty flawless tracking.

u/Warhawk444 · 1 pointr/Vive

I'm not home atm so cant take pics. Ill try to do that tomorrow but if you dont hear back just cokment on this tread again to remind me id be more than happy to show you. Here are the three cables i purchased, id recommend only these three as i had to do some research because a lot of lower quality cables will cause latency or simply not work at all also, any more than 10 feet will cause issues as hdmi cables dont transfer data over long distances very well. The towel rack and shower rings where purchased at a local home improvment store so no links for those but you can find those at any walmart target lowes etc.

Cables:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FT9VW0O/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1MJXBMMDKYADG
ox_sc_act_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ

u/exedotbat · 2 pointsr/Fishing_Gear

I am new to fish finders, but I have the garmin in my kayak and like it so far. This is how I mounted it, and links to the power pack and accessories I used. There are larger power banks but the 6000mah, was perfect for my needs.

https://imgur.com/a/TeAAv5y

Battery

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MF70BPU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuse (I cut the original one off and soldered in the blade sytle)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK4RNB3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable gland set I used for the pelican box

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077R1RT2T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5.5mm plugs to soldered to the garmin cable to plug directly into the battery pack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPL8MVG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pelican Case

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LZ5HDI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/jcann0n · 1 pointr/wyzecam

It does a pretty good job. Lights up my whole living room. If its not enough however you can help the cam by getting more IR LED lights like this one.

u/Kzo981 · 9 pointsr/Darts

Materials:

Gut this wall clock


Cut this in half and adhere around board. I used carpet tape


Stick these LEDs around the inner perimeter

note that these LEDs were intentionally chosen for their brightness and color, you can use others but I can't guarantee you'll like the illumination


Plug this guy in between the power supply and LEDs for a power switch

That's it! Now just pressure fit that bad boy on top of the foam you adhered around your board and this thing stays put, it's super sturdy and super sleek, way less intrusive than the retail options available right now I think.

u/terpaderp · 3 pointsr/BeagleBone

SIM&NAT Male DC 2.1mm x 5.5mm Wire Power Pigtails Adapter Barrel Plug Socket Cables for CCTV Security Camera, DVR, Car Rearview Monitor System Video, LED Strip Light, Surveillance (20 inch / 50 cm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GPL8MVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eeHMzbZ5K8BHP I would use a kit like these and a terminal block to break out the 5v lines. After that just make sure you get the red lines to positive and you should be good to go!

u/Chrono32123 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Good on you for posting this guide! I've been meaning to post my method of doing it but this works the same. However:

Where did you get $40 from? Did you have to buy a new soldering kit as well?

Also I would HIGHLY recommend anyone doing this mod using pigtail adapters instead of hardwiring the AC adapter directly into the kinect that way if you ever need to move it or if the AC Adapter goes out you don't have to re-do the entire mod/splice a new adapter in there.

Here's a link to the adapters:Amazon I bought a pack of 10 similar to this one.

u/Shneaky · 2 pointsr/wyzecam

I'm having the same issues with my recently purchased pans. 3 cameras in various rooms throughout my house, the IR alone barely penetrates a few feet into the dark. In my kid's rooms they leave nightlights on, so it's not an issue. In our playroom though, I ended up putting my old FosCam on a shelf, and plugging it in just as a supplementary IR illuminator. It has far more IR lights and it lights up a large playroom like a christmas tree. I'm loving almost everything about the Wyze cams, but a little disappointed in the apparent weakness of the IR lights. I'd definitely suggest checking Amazon, they have some cheap IR illuminators that could help.

This one has decent reviews and is mentioned to work great with Wyze cams. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aG80CbEE00161

u/Hotrian · 1 pointr/Vive

I don't have my Vive yet, but I'm reading they're 2.5m or approx 8ft. If you need longer cables you can either use a standard extension cord or something like this should work great for extending the cord itself.

u/bifurk8 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I can't comment on the effectiveness of my mounting yet, since I've still just got one sensor until tomorrow - but I've mounted mine about 7 feet high on the wall (just above door frame height). When testing potential mounting spots, I found that any higher and tracking would get wobbly or that the Rift sensor setup would complain about being too far from the sensor.

I used these security camera mounts from Amazon (they sell them in both two packs and single packs, so I ended up buying three total). I like these because they can extend out from the wall with the included extensions and I needed that extra length because I have a really deep desk that would occlude tracking if they didn't stick out so far. Note that these mounts are probably too heavy to use with command strips, they really do need to be screwed in (I tested them with command strips just while I was trying them in different positions and three large command strips did hold the mount+sensor during testing, but didn't seem like it would hold reliably forever).

When testing different positions, I used DeskScene to visualize and test the tracking area. Note that it currently only works with one sensor, but the developer has said he's working on adding support for additional sensors.

I think if you have room for them on your desk, your desk doesn't occlude them when you crouch, and you can step far enough back from your desk when playing to be in their sweet spot, there's no special reason to mount them, though.

u/Twelvers · 1 pointr/oculus

These worked great for me as far as the mounting goes. The 3M strips did work for ceiling mounting it, even though the bottom isn't flat. Eventually, after a month or so of testing I will probably screw them in.

I'd also invest in some cable hiders because while the mounted sensors look great, the wires look like shit running all around my room lol.

u/livevicarious · 3 pointsr/oculus

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These puppies are amazing. All metal, SUPER small, and have complete adjustment for height and rotation adjustment. 6 bucks.

u/CMDR_DrDeath · 2 pointsr/oculus

Looks nice, but I wouldn't store the Rift upside down.
Aside from that you should consider wall mounts like this : https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Mounting-Installation-Surveillance/dp/B001D49TU4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1496041851&sr=8-5&keywords=camera+wall+mount

Very easy to set up.

u/sgorneau · 1 pointr/wyzecam
  1. Yes .. these and I love them https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G732B9J/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  2. Nope! And this past summer I've been through 100°F days, full sun, 60MPH winds, sideways 3" rain storms ... and now this winter -20°F nights, snow, ice, rain .... rain that then flash freezes.

  3. Each exterior camera is mounted to window trim. The included USB cables running through the window to an outlet nearby. The flat cable makes this practical because it doesn't interfere with the window weather stripping.

  4. a) Mounted to first story window exterior trim, covered front porch b) mounted to second story window exterior trim looking down at driveway, enclosure fully exposed to elements c) mounted to second story window exterior trim looking down at pool, enclosure fully exposed to elements d) mounted to wall in garage

  5. Patriot 32GB SD in each for all-time recording, sending clips to the cloud. Waiting to hear about RTSP to make a decision on the upcoming storage device. (really, really hoping for RTSP)
u/shottogan · 1 pointr/PSVR

https://imgur.com/gallery/qIbQBB5

Retractable with great height, even with this low entertainment block. 😼🎶
Should work with either generation PS4 camera; just remove its stand.

I made one of the mount holes large enough (with a small drill bit.. ideally you'd have the proper bit size 🥴) to fit my TV's bolt. If yours is smaller screen size it may have smaller bolts.

The parts:

u/Romthirty · 1 pointr/oculus

https://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Thread-Double-Sided-Adhesive-Universal/dp/B00QSFKJ8E/ref=sr_1_12?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1481588853&sr=8-12&keywords=saddle+dash+cam+holder

It's an Amazon seller, I ordered 3 of them and only received 2 of them so I can't say I recommend buying from that seller, but I do recommend the product. They are nice and strong, which is unfortunate that I didn't get all 3.

I placed an order for this one for my 3rd sensor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which is almost the same, but doesn't have the 3M adhesive. I suppose I could buy my own adhesive, or I can use 3 thumb tacks as I've seen people do with these.



u/Nipz-TF2 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I don't have experience with that one, but I do have experience with a different type that I'm very happy with and would highly recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/OdiySurveil-Security-Housing-Bracket-Camera/dp/B00R96X9DS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521469198&sr=8-5&keywords=camera+mount
It's sturdy and still cheap, the swivel locks in place and the sensor screws right into it. It's very solid.
I mounted mine right to the ceiling in the corners of my room, and used cable trays to hide the wires.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Wiremold-CordMate-Channel-White-C10/202059078

u/VueVille · 1 pointr/homedefense

I got these, but off eBay. There are hundreds of Chinese brands all selling probably the exact same device.

https://www.amazon.com/Crazy-48-LED-Infrared-Vision-Illuminator/dp/B0067S8IZ8/

Works very well, although the beam is on the narrow side. I have two of them covering a 120 degree sweep and they are very very bright.

My next purchase would however be these, the LEDs seem to be EXIR rather than the standard IR LED: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6K407Q?psc=1

u/ndboost · 2 pointsr/homelab

yuuup those plastic RackStuds I dropped a good chunk of change on for them. I paid $80 shipped for them from amazon, and I wouldn't buy anything else ever again. They are that awesome.

u/overzeetop · 1 pointr/oculus

Since the cameras have to be unfiltered in the IR to see the controllers, there's a good chance you could get a small IR illuminator like this $19 one at 940nm that should be effectively invisible to humans and just illuminate the room with it if you want to use the unit in darkness. The IR should bleed through all RGB/Bayer filters to put data into every channel, meaning that even if the Quest only uses, say, green to identify objects it will still work.

If you're handy with a soldering iron you can probably make a light for $5-6 in a pinch.

u/firepixel · 1 pointr/oculus

I just finished playing 15 levels of Brookhaven Experiment (amazing game), 3 sensors is all you need. I have two in the front corners on tri-pods roughly 5 feet from the ground and 8 feet apart angled toward the center of the play space and one rear center mounted 6" down from a 8' celing with this mount approximately 13 feet from the front. I know this isn't the recommended setup, I plan to try a few setups and decide what I like best. I had a 4th sensor on order but I decided to cancel it since 3 sensors works so well. My play space is roughly 9' x 9' right now, the only time I notice any goofiness is when I'm facing one of the rear corners and slowly turning, the handoff from one sensor to the next makes my pistol move in or out about 3-4 inches. It's not noticeable when I'm playing the game, just when I'm slowly rotating to test tracking.

u/Logvin · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Well, I live in Phoenix so I don't really deal with rain that much. These ones were installed under an overhang, so they are not getting wet.

I recently purchased this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G732B9J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm moving shortly, and some of the locations will be more in the open. This should help I think.

My philosophy with these guys is... I'll risk it. It dies, It was only $25 :)


The live tracking is customizable too. Notice in the first video there is a black patch on the ground on the left? A cat likes to come by in the early morning sometimes and walk along that wall. I modified the tracking target so it doesnt alert me for movement there, only closer to the door.

u/JohnnyGFX · 2 pointsr/oculus

I bought a pair of these off Amazon. They arrived yesterday and they seem like they are going to work perfectly for mounting up on the wall for my cameras. Comes in a 2-pack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/NCngnr · 2 pointsr/apple

There's a system called Vera that works decently well. There's an app, several devices by several manufacturers, etc. It does push notifications for my home's door/window sensors and motion alarms. There seem to be doorbells that interface with vera, which seemingly would do the trick.

On that note, this seems to fit what you're after, you just need to have it connect to a z-wave or other home automation controller like one of Vera's. Hope that helps.

u/will1384 · 1 pointr/DIYRift

The plugs come in different sizes, I know a 2.1 x 5.5mm male connector will fit the LCD controller I have.

I don't have this adapter, but it may work for you:

www.amazon.com/Tontec®-Supply-Adapter-Raspberry-Resolution/dp/B00LFBPL7K

it seems to be sold by the same people that I got the LCD controller from, and seems to be what Amazon calls "Frequently Bought Together" when you look at the Amazon LCD controller page:

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JOY5PGM

however the cable length is about 110CM or 43.3 inches, thats a little short for VR usage, but you may not find many alternatives with a longer cable, and may have to make an extension cable, I used male and female power connectors like this:

www.amazon.com/5-5mm-2-1mm-Female-Connector-Camera/dp/B005CMP434

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058RLD9C

and some wire to give me about 10 foot of cable.

u/TrptJim · 2 pointsr/Vive

If you want 50ft HDMI I can confirm that this cable works perfectly, camera turned on and everything, for only a couple bucks more than the OP's cable. I'm using this extender for linkbox power and two of these extenders for the lighthouses.

It really is nice to move your setup to a much bigger play space, and being able to extend so far is really handy.

u/lamuril · 1 pointr/oculus

These are the mounts we used, and a lot cheaper than the ones linked on the wiki: OdiySurveil (TM) Metal CCD Security Housing Mount Bracket for CCTV Camera


We also bought this 3.0 USB Anker port as I was under the impression we would need it and it was recommended on a thread. We actually ended up not needing it, but we still have it available in case we need to free up usb slots. I would double check on other threads that it does indeed work before just taking my word for it, as I haven't tested it yet personally

u/Sigmag · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Man, you have no idea how well it gets rid of that line of sight issue. I can lay prone and shoot! People were getting mad at me in multiplayer for it, lol.

It's super easy and will only cost you $40~ - here's what I used with mine:

u/shortyjacobs · 3 pointsr/oculus

I'm not him, but I used these and these. Looks great and tons of adjustability. I trimmed the command hook/loop strips so only the pull tabs stick out the bottom, (nothing out the top...since the strips are rectangles and the mounting base is circular...).

u/tricheboars · 6 pointsr/oculus

Okay. So wall mounted sensors are definitely the way to go. I got these:
Uxcell 1/4" Black CCTV Security Camera Metal Wall Mount Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVCKZZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_VYT6El8hJxCub

But the wires right? Well for those I got these:
Wiremold C110 1-channel CordMate Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004W3ZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_CCv9zLkKoD43V

Then I have 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables on two sensors and a 16ft active USB 2.0 cable on my third sensor.

I ran the cables along the baseboard with the cord mate runners. They are white which matches my baseboards and then I run the cord mates with the sensor cables inside up the walls in the corners.

Shit works. Tracking is flawless. It's barely noticeable and I never have to mess with them now that they are setup.

When it comes to vr don't be surprised if you need to rearrange the layout of your furniture in the computer room. Think long and hard and then commit.

It helps if you draw this shit out first and think about how to lay out it before doing anything. This project will take a day but once your done your done.

u/bugscuz · 7 pointsr/EntitledBitch

Ok I’m not 100% on how to use them but have read of others doing so on r/legaladvice
If there’s red at night then it has infrared night vision,


r/homedefense might have some info on them. Something like this pointed straight at the cameras creates a flare so they’re unable to see with them, unsure if it works the same during the day https://www.amazon.com/CMVision-IR200-Outdoor-Illuminator-Position-Adjustment/dp/B004V9Z7ZY

u/Liberi_Fatales · 1 pointr/oculus

What i do is use these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with some of this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SRECEU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works flawlessly and its nice to have varying lengths of mounts.

The tape also wont rip off paint and stucco like command strips will.

u/pmgta · 1 pointr/wyzecam

I've been using a couple of these around the house for over a year. I'm happy with it and service was great when I had an issue ( my fault ) with one.

https://www.amazon.com/Tendelux-Illuminator-AI4-Infrared-Security/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3M3V81HYZIW5O&keywords=ir+illuminator&qid=1562946265&s=gateway&sprefix=ir+ilum%2Caps%2C231&sr=8-3

u/sec713 · 2 pointsr/xbox

I don't know about mounting the XB1 itself, but I mounted my Kinect to the wall using a security camera mount like this

u/Ubelsteiner · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075ZYG89D/ref=sspa_mw_detail_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1 would something like this work for Quest tracking in the dark? I hate having my overhead lights in at night, and this would be handy for outdoor parties that go on after dusk, it it will work like I hope.

u/SpaceNinjaBear · 1 pointr/oculus

I picked up some Arlo wall mounts for my sensors which work great, but I'm considering returning them. They're basically overkill for my uses. Considering getting these instead. They're a good bit cheaper and look to do the same job.

I'm also using the velcro Command strips. Even if the wall mounts have a concave base, you can set the strips at an angle covering the screw holes and still get a firm hold on the wall.

u/ItsPJBia · 24 pointsr/wyzecam

The camera only has 4 small IR lights built into it so distance isnt its friend. I have looked into buying an auxiliary IR light meant to light up 200ft to brighten up my backyard at night. Something like this

Univivi IR Illuminator 90 Degree Wide Angle 8-LEDs IR Infrared Light Security Cameras. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075F7NV56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SagVCbGJST4EB

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Description|In this video, I take my sister's broken record player, take out all the old parts, and put in the new bluetooth components. ⤶new parts list:⤶⤶female power jack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJAW9F4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶5v male power jack to usb:⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MQO96U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶5v wall charger:⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XUY0DFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶aux cord (3.5mm): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078F718PM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶bluetooth receiver board: ⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU12QC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶amplifier board: ⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077MKQJW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

##Channel Data:

Field|Data
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Name|Miller's Planet
Thumbnail|Link
Subscribers|163
Videos|9
Views|23568



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u/itsZiz · 20 pointsr/buildapc

I started with just a few things and then listed everything I see... sorry for the spam
(these are all things I have, feel free to ask any Q's)


- Mini Fridge - https://www.amazon.com/Danby-DAR026A1BDD-3-Designer-Refrigerator-2-6-Cubic/dp/B00MO6V96W/ref=sr_1_8?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1519347546&sr=1-8&keywords=mini+fridge


- Cup - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUBR8UH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Air Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Good Chair Mat - https://www.amazon.com/Black-Chair-Mat-Rectanglular-ABS-RC-4655/dp/B00D83MURM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_229_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CMJS2EM6STF7XCCJZGWZ&dpID=51%252BWDnIRG0L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail


- Big Boy Ergo Chair - https://www.ergoexperts.com/collections/ergonomic-chairs/products/office-master-iu79hd-24-7-intensive-use-heavy-duty-high-back-ergonomic-task-chair


- Camera Mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMLX1O2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Space Heater - https://www.amazon.com/Lasko-Ceramic-Heater-Remote-Control/dp/B00PYDGN18/ref=sr_1_17?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348189&sr=1-17&keywords=lasko+space+heater


- LED Lights - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX9Z3LH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Foot Rest - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN9W3UY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Wrist Rest - https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D510182&field-keywords=lasko+space+heater&rh=n%3A1055398%2Cn%3A3206324011%2Cn%3A9425950011%2Cn%3A510182%2Ck%3Alasko+space+heater


- Underdesk Headphone hanger - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Trash Can - https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-295700GY-Wastebasket-Rectangular/dp/B079WPRXXS/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1519348333&sr=8-26&keywords=trash+can


- Cat Bed - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJRCQBW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Keyboard - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2164


- Keycaps - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PBT-Backlit-Keycaps-109-Keyset-Top-Printed-Cherry-MX-Key-Caps-For-Tenkeyless-87-104-108/32842167507.html?src=google&albslr=220105582&isdl=y&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&source=%7Bifdyn:dyn%7D%7Bifpla:pla%7D%7Bifdbm:DBM&albch=DID%7D&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&isdl=y&albcp=653478879&albag=34653160498&slnk=&trgt=75384829977&plac=&crea=en32842167507&netw=g&device=c&mtctp=&gclid=CjwKCAiA8bnUBRA-EiwAc0hZk62T3uqIKPVAUNx-ATVUQIzI8kscvB4UdNBR5dMpZ46l1gp9aoD38BoCNXQQAvD_BwE


- Mouse - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JPOLLTK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Mouse Mat - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745N6CMD/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Headphones - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R99S14/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008POFOHM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Dac/Amp - https://www.jdslabs.com/products/48/objective2-odac-combo-revb/


- Speakers - https://emotiva.com/products/airmotiv-6s


- Subwoofer - http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/m8.html


- Mic - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCN83VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Mic Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012MIVUQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Boom Arm - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1194415-REG/o_c_white_ulp_mb_proboom_ultima_lp_adjustable.html?sts=pi


- Web Cam Alternative - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9EYN26/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Lens - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDGB94S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- PC Cam Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4SM7H6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Lights Boxes - https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Digital-Photography-Fluorescent-AGG883/dp/B0091HO1FS/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348726&sr=1-10&keywords=16%22+x+24%22++soft+box


- Light Box Stands & Clamp - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1327281-REG/ultimate_support_17637_jamstands_fixed_length_boom.html
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010CYHW4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Light Bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB8O2VU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/knexfan0011 · 1 pointr/oculus

The sensors can be unscrewed from the bases, then you can use standard CCTV mounts if that's more convenient for you.
I could not get mine unscrewed though, so ymmv.
Other users have used mounts like these.
I personally built an overhead mount from k'nex that is self supporting and sits on shelves/doorframe, so I didn't have to drill into the wall/ceiling, but something like that can get very time consuming and bulky depending on how big your room is.

u/shmoe723 · 2 pointsr/wyzecam

I added a couple IR illuminators to handle the after dark lighting for my cameras and actually turned off the IR from the Wyze cams themselves. They aren't any good for outdoor illumination. Not knocking them for that, as I knew that when I purchased. But a couple ir lights like these Tendelux 80ft IR Illuminator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8QvYDb1AF74CG. Do a great job of lighting the areas my cameras cover. There are many cheap options, just recommending one Inknow that works. You don't have to mount it next to your camera, if that's inconvenient, just where you want the night vision to be lit up.

u/VR247 · 5 pointsr/oculus

haha... I bought these 2 for $15. Mounted them last night, they work PERFECTLY.

u/ITCrowdFanboy · 5 pointsr/homelab

Sweet, thanks. Here's a link for all you European homelabbers. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rackstuds-Smart-Mounting-System-100-pack/dp/B00I348OD0/

u/Sydewinder · 6 pointsr/Vive

I've successfully created a 10 ft (~2m??) extension beyond the break out box. Total cost was under $50. I have a 3.2m x 3.5m or so area and I have more than enough space. One thing I'd note is that the HDMI cable extension is HEAVY/THICK. After I put all the extension cables through the mesh casing, it makes the cable paclage very rigid. Still, this works flawlessly for me! Links to amazon below...

HDMI: Monoprice Commercial Series Premium 10ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable Male to Female Extension - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2a4HxbGN1CTQG

USB: Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Qb4Hxb1AHSCGS

DC Power: Hanvex HDCA12 12 ft 1.3mm DC Power Extension Cable for Foscam, Agasio, Tenvis, Loftek Wireless IP Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yc4HxbRGNZ5AB

1/2" casing sleeve: 1/2" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving- 10ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZATN3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Md4HxbR1Y7KTX

u/mav3r1ck92691 · 1 pointr/oculus

So it's tough for your space since it's pretty small. Given the furniture you have that could interfere I would probably place the one camera centered on the wall above your bed up near the ceiling and angled towards the center of your play area, and the other centered above your window near the ceiling.

Generally having them in opposite corners (this is how mine are) would be better, but your cabinets would get in the way. You might have some issues since you will be fairly close to the camera, but I think you can get away with it.

My cameras are mounted using 3m command strips and small camera mounts. I chose this route since I cannot drill into my apartment walls without losing my deposit. I just stuck the strips to the back of the mounts and to the walls. If you choose this route make sure you give the adhesive some time to set before you actually put the camera up (on both the camera mount and the wall).

These are what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LOQMCDM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/BennyFackter · 2 pointsr/oculus

If you'd like to avoid adhesive and prefer screw-mount for any reason, I used these with great results, $8.89. These also allow fully vertical placement, which it doesn't look like the OP link's do.

u/Carlifex · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I have a room where i dont need a tent. Im using this: https://www.amazon.com/Arkon-Camera-Mount-Camcorders-Cameras/dp/B00CMLX1O2/ref=sr_1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538577100&sr=1-22&keywords=wall+tripod+mount

connection to the pi: Just get a cable for your A/V output (in my case a Mini USB Cable

Then install entangle on the pi to test it. (better usability) or just read the documentation of gphoto2 to check. You might also wanna look up if your cam is supported by it.

cheers.

u/remembertosmilebot · 3 pointsr/oculus

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/Pluckerpluck · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

What I want to know is whether something like this can light up the room for the cameras.

They obviously see infrared (the controllers use them), so lighting up the room with non-visible light could be a way to get a dark room with decent tracking. It depends if the IR light is too bright and blots out the controllers tracking (though tracking still works on the Rift in the sun, it's just a bit flaky)

u/SmoothOpX · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I use this one:

Tendelux 80ft IR Illuminator | AI4 No Hot Spot Wide Angle Infrared Light for ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_80CUDbP85W82X via @amazon

​

I leave it plugged in all the time and it allows the Quest to track perfectly in the dark. I just aim it up at the ceiling and it illuminates a whole bedroom. You may need more power to play outside though.

u/mega_brown_note · 2 pointsr/videosurveillance

https://i.imgur.com/1kQB7q2.jpg

Tonight I'm evaluating this inexpensive illuminator. To my hobbyist eyes it does a very respectable job. I can see facial features beyond the patio.

Comments, please?

u/gkappz · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

They're LED lights like this one. Also Flossy is good.

u/ProtonMurphy · 1 pointr/Vive

Had the same issue (though on level 30 >.<). Here's now I fixed it:

I purchased 10' extensions for the HDMI/USB/Audio cables and then (this is key) wrapped them in these.

A costly upgrade but I haven't had a single wire issue since. You still get wrapped up if you're not careful but it's easy enough between rounds to see which way you need to turn during the next round to undo it.

Here's my stream from last night when I got rank #3, you can see my wire setup and technique for monitoring it (skip around).

u/spotwork · 4 pointsr/OculusQuest

I bought one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZYG89D for $20.

It works pretty well.

u/hutch_t1 · 1 pointr/oculus

That is correct, I had bought these to mount them upside down on my ceiling, and have one of them on a 2 meter USB 3.0 active extension cable. I've played through several different experiences, and no jumps anymore so far.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/

I used the below graphic as the basis for my new setup (making sure not to go past the listed measured distances.
http://cdn.uploadvr.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/oculus-3-sensor.jpg

u/ritnour · 5 pointsr/Sysadminhumor

Just finished setting up a new office. I think I may be in love with these guys:


Rackstuds Rack Mounting System, 100-pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I348OD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g6vKDbF5RZR4P

u/Retrosmith · 2 pointsr/watercooling

The light strip comes with a bare-wire end and a barrel-connector end. I've never seen a Molex-to-barrel-connector adapter though.

There are a few different ways to use a strip like this in a PC. I always solder a Molex connector onto the bare-wire end, so that's one option. If you want to go that route remember that on Molex, the YELLOW wire is 12V, not the red one.

You could also wire one of these to your Molex and plug it into the other end. Soldering would also be needed there though.

If soldering's isn't your thing I could easily make one for you.

u/reelznfeelz · 7 pointsr/WindowsMR

Ok cool. I'll try and find one on Amazon and do some tests.

Edit : Just ordered one of these to try

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZYG89D/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/DanDriggs · 1 pointr/oculus

Yessss 100%! I mounted my 2 sensors to the ceiling, and now I'm able to track all the way down to the floor with no issues. Love it. Will definitely install the 3rd sensor the same way.

For anyone wondering what mount I used (idk, I lurk alot and this would help me lol):

https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Mounting-Installation-Surveillance/dp/B001D49TU4/ref=pd_sim_421_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001D49TU4&pd_rd_r=PRWR7G0B6X8WPC0RDBTE&pd_rd_w=9Vk3H&pd_rd_wg=dViLD&psc=1&refRID=PRWR7G0B6X8WPC0RDBTE

u/tripl35oul · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

Do you think an 80ft Illuminator made by the same company would also be effective? Amazon Canada only has that type.

u/nellj21 · 1 pointr/oculus

Thank you for the suggestion. I went ahead and placed a mount above my computer, but I guess since it's so close and high the tracking is a little wonky. I can mount the sensor back onto it's original mount when i want to do a sit down session. These are the mounts I'm using

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/bundlednc · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Some of the window/door sensors allow you to connect a pair of wires which in this case would allow you to connect alarm wire to the sensor and trigger the z-wave part by pressing the doorbell button connected to the other end of the wire.
I used this one: https://amzn.com/B00HPIYJWU

Once you can send a z-wave command via the doorbell button then you can make it do a number of things. I trigger an MP3 using this z-wave doorbell: https://amzn.com/B0182XG27Q (note that bad reviews are related the the useless wireless button, the actual device is really useful as you can add many other sounds and trigger them with any number of z-wave devices) as well as flash the strobe on a couple of these: https://amzn.com/B00MNYSEKY. Other people have it flash lights, play sounds from their Sonos speakers etc.
This all is assuming you have some sort of HA hub as well.

u/tenaku · 1 pointr/Vive

maybe you could paint the cables white, or run some stick-on raceway to make things a little more palatable. you could also pick up some extensions like this so you can run the cables more cleanly along the edges of walls.

u/Ryvaeus · 2 pointsr/Twitch

I use this. u/EposVox uses it as well with his Panasonic G7 and for good reason; this thing can hold a pretty hefty load indefinitely as long as it's solidly mounted to something (in my case, I have it screwed onto the underside of a shelf above and behind my monitor).

u/kjack9 · 3 pointsr/Vive

I got this one for use with my HD558s. I'm then running a 30 ft long headphone extension (15ft from computer to link box, 15 ft for Vive cable) back to a Behringer headphone amp and then a DAC. I also have other 15 ft extensions (DisplayPort, USB, power) from the link box back to my PC.

The end result? 30 ft of Vive leash, headphone cable is cable-wrapped back to a proper headphone amp and DAC. No plugging/unplugging, and good sound quality to boot.

Granted, take everything I just said above with the understanding that I don't have a Vive yet, and it might work great...or not!

u/Zakic · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

I thought about trying to cover a large area with IR light and see what it does to tracking.. see if it would make the head set work in a dim area vs having to have alot of light.. i usually play late at night on my days off (i work graveyard) and having all the lights on can cause quite a bit of light though out the rest of the house where others are sleeping..

something like a pair of thise.. on at each corner or something..

https://www.amazon.com/Univivi-Illuminator-Infrared-Security-Cameras/dp/B075F7NV56/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1519781590&sr=8-6&keywords=ir+flood+lights

u/ZaneWinterborn · 4 pointsr/oculus

Get an IR light and you can play at night. Something like this.

u/Ninja_914 · 1 pointr/oculus

Camera mounts are here.

it comes with enough parts to make two medium sized mounts but until I get touch I combined the pieces to make one longer mount. Quality seems good and it mounts very sturdy to the wall.

u/Adreus_Bjorn · 7 pointsr/Vive

power:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D

Usb:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z

HDMI:https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460784534&sr=8-1&keywords=Monoprice+Commercial+Series+Premium+10ft+24AWG+CL2+High+Speed+HDMI+Cable+Male+to+Female+Extension+-+Black

I used black electrical tape to group the cables together after stretching them out and it works great. I accidentally made the usb to tight and occaisonally it pops out during transportation but rarely so if your going to group them together make sure they have enough slack.

u/stayintheshadows · 2 pointsr/alexa

Try either the Ring doorbell products or get a z-wave doorbell like this: Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW056 Doorbell, Small, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0182XG27Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2IJdAbP3REJ65

If you have a hub. Can likely set up a rule either in your hub software or using IFTTT.

I am curious to try this now.

u/gswart44 · 3 pointsr/Vive

I've been using this power cable as an extension between the link box and the normal VIVE power cable, and it's been working great. Not sure how it would work as the only cable connected directly to the VIVE though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O

u/genericallyloud · 1 pointr/oculus

Just for variety, this is what I got. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its a pack of two, so there's one for when the touch comes out. I've been happy with mine so far.

u/johnnybags · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

I've got this one: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW056-Doorbell/dp/B0182XG27Q/

The "chime" is a z-wave siren with an sd card containing 5 audio files. smart things triggers 1-5, the siren plays the corresponding audio

u/Verlena51 · 1 pointr/oculus

I got my headset used for $299 in like new condition. was used once for a demo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X8N1YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

3rd Sensor plugged into an USB 2.0 port on computer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rechargeable AA batteries and charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSL1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Expansion card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Headset and touch wall mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wall Mount used for rear left sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cable management system
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mount clip used for front left sensor on shelf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG4D3O5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI extension for headset, only one used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 pack 6 feet USB 3.0 extension cables, one used for front right sensor and one used for headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sensor ceiling mount used for front right sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3 foot usb 3.0 extension used for front left senor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S1B4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cleaning Cloths
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NR9S3EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oculus Rift Facial Interface & Foam Replacement Basic Set
https://vrcover.com/product/oculus-rift-facial-interface-foam-replacement-basic-set/

Photo of final setup
https://ibb.co/exkWXx

I have had no issues at all, this setup working very well for me.

u/sliight · 2 pointsr/Wyze

I bought these for exterior mounting:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07G732B9J/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_DF7XDbPFVMJN0

For inside I'd probably experiment with the 3m sticky disc and metal disc that sticks to it, that the magnetic camera then sticks to... Literally just stick it to the wall where you want to monitor

Btw, wyze plugs can be used to set timers on your heat and uvb for daytime, then when they turn those off turn on your night lamp or heating pad. I use a dual plug from another company as I've had it long before wyze made theirs.

Could even use the wyze sensors on the doors or cage tops so you're notified when they're opened..

u/sunamonster · 1 pointr/homesecurity

For night time maybe install an IR spotlight to illuminate your porch area? Something like this maybe.

https://www.amazon.com/CMVision-IR200-Outdoor-Illuminator-Position-Adjustment/dp/B004V9Z7ZY

Or you could change the porch light switch to be on a timer or controlled by a smart hub and timed that way.

During the day it's gonna be tough because your dealing with the property of all cameras which don't do well with foreground subjects that area dark compared to a bright background, besides relocating the camera I don't have any ideas for that problem.

u/pchadrow · 1 pointr/oculus

I'd recommend wall or ceiling mounting them.

Use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Affordable and can be held in place with thumbtacks, so no drilling worries. Just shorten them to their shortest length and they'll work great

u/Maldane · 2 pointsr/oculus

https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Adjustable-Mounting-Installation-Surveillance/dp/B001D49TU4

These are the ones I got, broke them down to make them as small/short as possible. Thanks for the compliment btw!

u/IT_NEWB1 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Okay, I will do so when I get home.

Crazepony just started selling the Tiny6 canopies on Amazon as a set of two for 8 dollars. I used buy the compete frame kits, I have quite the collection of tiny 6/7 frames hahahahaha.

Depending on your soldering skills, you can split the AIO VTX. I did that after ripping the antenna from a crazy crash and for practice. If you do decide to get another VTX, any split one works great. I like using this one. If you have extra hardware I usually cut a slit into one and use as a grommet for the antenna on the Tiny6/7 frame. u/kungfuremi might have photos.

u/chailatte_gal · 1 pointr/wyzecam
  1. Yes using an enclosure. See my set up here. Link go Amazon mounts I ordered. They are not water proof but help keep water off. I mounted under eaves to help.

  2. No issue with elements. Has been -32F air temp and -55 WC and no issues.

  3. Powering by using a light socket to plug adapter (last photo in link above).

  4. Attaches under eaves. I have 2 cameras mounted outside one at each door.

  5. Using Samsung Evo 32 GB SD card. 32 GB IS max it can take I believe.
u/Honda_TypeR · 6 pointsr/oculus

That is a good idea. I had to kinda of wing it based on amazon purchase histories of other users (and their reviews)

Here is what I used if anyone is curious

https://www.amazon.com/OdiySurveil-Security-Housing-Bracket-Camera/dp/B00R96X9DS/

It came with 3 mollys and 3 screws for each one. Oculus sensor cameras are so light weight I did not bother using the mollys. I just used screws only (more than enough grip in drywall for our light weight cams)

u/khoker · 3 pointsr/oculus

I use these camera mounts, which are $6.79 (with free Prime shipping) and give you basically 360 degrees of motion for tweaking the angle.

u/jonesRG · 1 pointr/oculus

Anything that supports a 1/4"-20 thread type. I used these and the extension cable that came with my LeapMotion HMD mount to run the 2 opposing cameras. Works great. There is some random occlusion but I rarely notice it in game, and its only if I'm close to the walls.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/DuaneAA · 1 pointr/Vive

When I put an extension between the linkbox and the headset cable for a larger play area a little ways away from my computer I used the following cable for the power:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

This is NOT the cable you need since it is female on one end and male on the other end, whereas you need male connectors on both ends if you are going from the linkbox to the headset directly, but it might at least point you in the right direction. Also, I haven't pulled the cable loose from the headset in a while, but the shape of the surrounding plastic on connector end at the headset may be critical as it is a tight fit next to the other connectors.

​

Hope this helps.

​

u/JoJoIrish · 1 pointr/xboxone

If the Kinect bottom does indeed have 1/4 20 thread...I am spraying something like this off white to match my wall trim on my wainscoting just under the wall mounted TV. Just Amazon search Camera mounts and possible put it right above the TV on the wall, may get you an extra 12 inches space back.

http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Security-Adjustable-Universal-Mounting/dp/B000IDCDZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382819536&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+20+Camera+Mount

u/brzztffn · 1 pointr/electricians

[This will give you plenty of chances to get it right. ](http://www.SIM.com/&NAT Male DC 2.1mm x 5.5mm Wire Power Pigtails Adapter Barrel Plug Socket Cables for CCTV Security Camera, DVR, Car Rearview Monitor System Video, LED Strip Light, Surveillance (20 inch / 50 cm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GPL8MVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uNlNAb6SQM973)

u/Sea_C · 6 pointsr/Vive

I'm in a dorm room so we have plenty of command hooks and velcro strips from this company. They work really well so far and I have some velcro strips left over so what I was planning to do was order these and attach them with the strips. Should work fine.

u/Fauropitotto · 2 pointsr/wyzecam

You'll need separate IR LED banks to illuminate your intended area. Adding more to feed off of a simple USB power source doesn't seem to be wise.

https://www.amazon.com/Univivi-Infrared-Illuminator-Waterproof-Security/dp/B01G6K407Q/

u/Abcdqfr · 1 pointr/Vive

You want a 1.5mm x 3.5mm adapter. Or just an extension if it suits your fancy. If you want an entirely new adapter, make sure it's rating for at least as many amps as the original. I think it's just 1A, but you can double check to make sure.

Scratch that, just reread the title. Thought you were asking for the linkbox. 2.1mm x 5.5mm for the lighthouse/base stations. 2.5A if you want to replace, though I read ~1A should work if you're in a pinch

u/atetuna · 1 pointr/flashlight

I haven't been happy in my search for IR lights too.

If you can use AC power or 12V DC, then look at some IR floodlights. Here's an example. It's "850nm", but it's not just a single wavelength. The output is a curve that extends down to visible wavelengths. Usually that's not a good thing, but in your case it is if you're using that film.

For flashlights, I've been underwhelmed. I got a couple of multi core zoomies built on the SK68 since I didn't want to spend a lot unless I find something decent or build my own. If I build my own, it'll be built on a showerhead reflector flashlight so that I can put in enough emitters to get a lot of output.

Have you tried IR with digital cameras? The cheap Gopro clones, actually more like SJCAM SJ4000 clones, have an IR filter that's possible to remove. I think there are adapters that would let you use a long pass filter too. Supposedly some cell phones don't have IR filters on the selfie cam too.

u/Stridyr · 2 pointsr/Vive

This the Amazon link for the 10ft extension: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D

Male: 1.3mm (inner dia.) x 3.5mm (outer dia.) plug, Female: Accepts 1.3mm x 3.5mm plug

u/artel · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I own the Aeotec doorbell which is powered by an outlet. https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW056-Doorbell/dp/B0182XG27Q

You can configure the sounds that are played by plugging in a USB cable to the back of the device and uploading your own MP3s. It's not as loud as an alarm, but for your situation that may be acceptable.

u/iNeedAValidUserName · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

It mounts like this. If you have no top bezel it will cut off your a very small portion. (it is the closer one)

It does have a screw hole for a tripod/mount though so I guess you could use something like this, 3M strips could probably hold it if you can't screw into a wall or anything. here is a customer image from amazon of someone doing something similar

u/rustysawdust · 1 pointr/oculus

There are some good for VR reviews for these ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS

u/Zetaphor · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

I use this one and it lights up my entire room, they're really bright in the headset.

u/JCrew7384 · 3 pointsr/wyzecam

Like would this one work? It talks about different angles and wave lengths.

Tendelux 80ft IR Illuminator | AI4 No Hot Spot Wide Angle Infrared Light for Security Camera (w/Power Adapter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZYG89D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w9CrDbJXQMDM0

u/danbert88 · 3 pointsr/Vive

HDMI + USB + Power + Cable Sleeve = Good extension cable.

I use this setup on the HMD end of the Linkbox with no issues.

u/VA_Network_Nerd · 6 pointsr/sysadmin

2 x APC AR3340 42U, 750x1200mm Cabinets

If you can fit the 48U version of these, go with 48U.

4 x APC AP8841 L6-30P vertical Rack PDUs

1 x APC SYA4K8RMP Symmetra LX 4kVA UPS, scalable to 8kVA

OR

1 x APC SYA8K16RMP Symmetra LX 8kVA UPS, scalable to 16kVA

Tell APC or the VAR to replace back plates so you have 2 to 4 L6-30R outlets.
Then tell them to fill each UPS with internal batteries and at least 2 power modules.
You must have 2 or more power modules to have a redundant solution.
Tell them to include a physical maintenance bypass in the quoted solution.
That is gonna add cost & professional installation labor, but you'll thank yourself later.
Ask your business & the landlord if you need to have an EPO in the room.
If you need an EPO, tell APC to add it to the solution.
(EPO = Emergency Power Off. A single panic button that kills everything in the equipment room.)

I know, an EPO sounds excessive. I don't know where you are or how big of a pain in the ass your Fire Marshals are in that area.
All I can tell you is you don't ever want to irritate a Fire Marshal. If regional code says to deploy an EPO, deploy the EPO.

DON'T FREAK OUT about the cost of those UPS units.
Read the literature, and I'll tell you why they are a good purchase, compared to something cheaper.

There are only two logical choices for a KVM solution. Well, three actually.

Option 1: Don't use a KVM, use the integrated out-of-band management solution included with your server or network device. If your server doesn't have an iLO or a DRAC or whatever they call their OOB management solution, you bought the wrong servers.

Option 2: Raritan (Expensive, but good) https://www.raritan.com/landing/java-support-available-for-kvm-solutions

Option 3: Aten (Less expensive, less good, but not garbage) https://www.aten.com/us/en/products/kvm/kvm-over-ip-switches/

WARNING: Make damned sure you choose a Raritan or Aten product offering that can be used Java-free. You do not want to buy a IP-KVM solution that requires Java to function.
I cannot express the importance of not using a Java based KVM strongly enough.
If you need a detailed explanation, just ask.

Invest in one of these:

Cage Nut Install Tool

Or Invest in a fat sack of these:

Rack Studs

Personally, I like steel cage nuts & screws holding my hardware in place. But the attraction of RackStuds is pretty obvious.

u/KilgorSprout · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Seems like if the heatsink is in your tent it wouldnt really do much unless it's right by your out take. But cheap enough I guess you can try

You just need a 12 V power supply and then get a female dc barrel connector for the red and green wires. It says it should be six amps.

Coming Data 12V 6A 72W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0194B7XT6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rk14ybZG2458D


DC Power Barrel Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CMP434/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wl14ybHKGJZ4S

u/ohv_ · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

ill pick up a bag, looks neat and nice for those pain to reach spots in the racks.

amazon reviews look promising.

u/HaCutLf · 1 pointr/Vive

If you don't mind hanging it on your wall you can get something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00R96X9DS?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title), or use one of the wall mounts that came with your base stations. You could also use a tripod or something.

u/honeyfage · 1 pointr/oculus

I use these mounts with command strips for my sensors. Two strips per mount and they seem very stable

u/th3v3rn · 1 pointr/Vive

Pretty simple really. Just uses a simple tripod mount system. You could even but to cheap tripods from wallmart.

Snake

Simple

u/Gingaskunk · 10 pointsr/Pimax

I used THIS, THIS and THIS to extend my Pimax. Works great, no problems.

u/I_wish_I_was_a_robot · 2 pointsr/amazonecho
u/EarlyVsMidThirties · 1 pointr/oculus

Omall (TM) Metal CCD Security Housing Mount Bracket for CCTV Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R96X9DS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Olqsyb7666GDV

Just sold out. But very small and cheap wall mounts.

u/EarthlyDragon · 1 pointr/oculus

You could just use a security camera mount. Got mine for $7 on amazon

u/hepatitisC · 3 pointsr/wyzecam

You could absolutely get away with mounting it on a shelf. I just didn't like that option because the sides of my cabinet blocked some of the field of vision. I used something similar to this rigging up a rare earth magnet and using the old metal plate from the V2. What I used was not the exact model that I linked, so I'm not recommending that one by any means. I took to ebay and found something like that from China for cheap. I think it cost me about $10 for the magnet and mount, so it wasn't bad. Just want to give you an idea of some of the options that you could come up with if the other mounting options don't work well for you.

u/Xalic · 1 pointr/oculus

sure. I bought two of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and just used drywall anchors I had to mount then on the wall my computer is on.

u/kommutator · 2 pointsr/oculus

As /u/deathmonkeyz said, there's a 1/4" tripod mount on the bottom. You can use something like this to mount it to a wall. (That's just the first match I found for such a thing. There's a lot of different styles and prices. Chances are with the low weight of the Oculus sensor, you could get away with something cheaper.)

u/DavidTennantsTeeth · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

I purchased this IR floodlight for $19 on amazon. Put it in the corner of my room and I can play in bed in complete darkness.

u/steampvnc1880 · 5 pointsr/oculus

Yep. one more sensor is a must have. Also get three of these wall mounts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R96X9DS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I tried going with 8 foot tripods for a while but you'll want as much floor space to walk around in as possible

u/YOLO_HASHTAG_SWAG · 4 pointsr/oculus

List of components:

u/DeVinely · 1 pointr/Vive

Other people said they were using this cable. https://www.amazon.com/Hanvex-HDCA12-Extension-Foscam-Wireless/dp/B00FT9VW0O

That claims to support up to 3amps. I don't remember what the vive adapter states, you will have to look.

You would just cut off the female end, strip the wires, and screw them into that male adapter. Or if you wanted, get a second shorter cable and make a male to male to leave the longer extension intact.

u/darealdsisaac · 1 pointr/oculus

USB Extension

USB card (This is the only one I've seen that is recommended. I need it because I don't have enough ports.)

Wallmlounts

Accessories total: $56
Oculus total:$497
Vive total:$500

u/Smaskifa · 2 pointsr/homedefense

Does your camera have infrared LEDs? You'd want to turn them off so that they don't create glare on the glass in front of the camera. I'd make sure it's possible to do that and still have the camera use the IR sensor instead of the day time sensor. I haven't tried this on my cameras, so I'm not sure if that's an option.

If your camera doesn't have IR LEDs, then I'm guessing it probably doesn't have an IR sensor either, so it wouldn't "see" the light given off by an IR LED.

You can indeed use external IR illuminators with cameras, but I've only done it by supplementing the existing IR on the camera, not using them instead of the camera's IR lights.

I use these IR lights to supplement the IR on my outdoor cameras.

u/JaZepi · 3 pointsr/Vive

I'll search my amazon purchase history...gimme 5 min.

Here ya go:

Hanvex HDCA12 12 ft 1.3mm DC Power Extension Cable for Foscam, Agasio, Tenvis, Loftek Wireless IP Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7SwDxbQHJJX94

u/q-bus · 1 pointr/homeautomation

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-ZW056-z-wave-doorbell/dp/B0182XG27Q

This doorbell let you have multiple audio files on it and you can set up home automation to trigger the different ones . You basically send the audio file number to parameter six.