Reddit mentions: The best sewing products

It all depends on what type of builder/crafter you want to get into. Buying all the "machines" and tools for someone that would be a foamsmith but you're really a needlework kind of person makes it a potential waste of money and time (and vice versa).

IF you want to get into an overall crafting/building in general, here are the tools and materials I've gathered for my workshop:

I'm gonna put the word **Optional** for the items that are not completely necessary for first time builders, but definitely worth while down the road.

• Breakaway blades - You can get a pack and break away the blade once it dulls or no longer sharpens.
  
• Rotary cutting wheel - for quick fabric cuts https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-195210-1001-Comfort-Rotary-Cutter/dp/B000B7M8WU/
  
• Kershaw Sharpening stone - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WALUV6/
  
• Dremel (or rotary tool) - I've seen these go for as low as $30 for one that has 2 speeds. Since it's mostly for costuming, the 2 speeds is plenty.
  
• Besides the Dremel, if you can, pick up a Belt Sander **Optional** from Harbor Frieght (particularly when it goes on sale and they issue a 20% coupon) I got mine for around $50 and it is a time saver!
  
• Heat gun, I picked one up from Harbor Freight and it was under $10 at the time. It's still going strong and I have had no issues.
  
• Wood Burning Tool **Optional** - This will help you add some great details on the foam. There is a good starter kit also that contains a bunch of nibs, including a soldering nib, as well as a hot knife attachment. The hot knife will cut through foam like butter. One note though, if you don't plan on getting a separate dedicated hot knife, use the one that comes w/ the kit for the finer cuts. The wood burner is a very versatile tool!
  
• For the glue. I would suggest Barge Contact cement or DAP Weldwood. This is what I use and it's proven to be a great option. Hot glue is still very helpful and can be used for quick fixes or adding additional bond. My only reason for not using hot glue for foam is that it takes time to cure and you have to hold it in place. Also, sometimes it creates messy seams.
  
• Kwik Seal paintable caulk or flexible spackle - to cover up the seams you can use either of these. Difference between the two, 1) the caulk needs to be smoothed out before it dries, you can use water. 2) the spackle can be sanded after it dries if you don't apply it smooth the first time.
  
• On the topic of concealing seams or general sculpting, you should look into Foam Clay. It is very malleable and once cured overnight, it's basically shaped foam.
  
• Mod Podge or Flexible Clear Coat spray **Optional** - To coat the finished and painted product, you will want to use something that will protect it and also be flexible. Unless, you want it to be very rigid, you can use Epsilon Pro to coat it, but I can't guarantee that it won't crack. Especially areas that will need some flex. I say this is optional because some crafters don't do clear coating.
  
• Eye Protection & Mask - you don't want fine bits of foam flying into your eyes or lungs. Make sure you get eye pro and a good fine-filter respirator.
  
• Sewing machine - I'm not a needlework expert, but having one is great for sewing straps, hook & loop, minor clothing, etc... Obviously if this is more your expertise, get one that you know you'll love and have great use of.
  
• Cutting Mat - Useful for both the foamsmith and the needlework crafters. I've used both the Fiskars and the US Art Supply brands. Personally the US Art Supply one is way better IMO. It holds up to more cuts and abuse.
  
  Here are some helpful options for your search for EVA foam. Hopefully one of the stores I list here will be some-what local for you. Home Depot, Lowes, 5 Below, BJ's, Costco, Walmart, & Harbor Freight all carry the EVA (floor mat) foam. I have personally purchased and used foam from all of these locations.
  
  
• Your standard craft foam (from craft stores like JoAnne's or Michaels) will be anywhere between 2mm - 6mm. These are great for accent pieces or adding fine details. Keep in mind anything under 8mm will need some sort of rigid structure in order to maintain a good shape for armor. (like cardboard or something) FYI - Joanne's now carries the Yaya Han branded EVA foam mats in various thicknesses.
  
• Harbor Freight has 4 (24"x24") tiles for $8.99 and sometimes have an additional 20% off coupon circulating around. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. They also carry a 72" long (8mm) foam roll with a heat treated diamond patterned back for $9.99.
  
• At BJ's & Costco, I've bought some from these places as well, they carry 8 (24"x24") tiles for $9.89. But people have complained of its quality. (I personally have never had any notable issues with them.) The back of their EVA foam is generally heat treated usually w/ a diamond pattern.
  
• Home Depot & Lowes carries the 4 pack (25"x25") anywhere between $20 - $25. The back of their EVA foam is a standard heat treated texture. Though these seem fine, they are more expensive and are just like the ones at Harbor Freight.Walmart carries a 12 pack (24"x24") for around $18 - $20. The back of their EVA foam is the typical heat treated texture.
  
• 5 Below carries single tiles (no packs) (multiple colors) for $5.00. Same as the others, standard heat treated texture on the other side.
  
• TNT Cosplay Supply carries various sizes and thicknesses of EVA/Craft foam without the heat treatment backing. This is especially good if you don't want to have to deal with sanding down the heat treated backing to help glue adhere better. They are more expensive, but the quality is always great.
  
  Helpful links from the masters: Evil Ted Smith , Punished Props , Odin Makes , KamuiCosplay.
  
  Hope this helps.
  
  *note some prices are subject to change*

Machine Manufacturer and Model Number: Brother Nouvelle 1500s

Year purchased: 2013

Condition: Factory refurbished

Price paid (optional if you want to share): $550?

Link: Amazon currently has a newer version available, it looks like, but I have the one that is currently more expensive shown here.

How long have you used the machine: since 2013

Things you love:

• Oh the harp space! For a table top machine this one has SO MUCH ROOM for activities! I bought it specifically because I needed to quilt a king-sized quilt and my original machine (the Brother cs6000i) just wasn't going to cut it. So I love all that room for sure.
  
• I love how quiet it is despite being fast - boyfriend can definitely nap through me sewing on it. I also really appreciate the sizable extension table.
  
• I also love that you don't have to take the extension table off of the machine to reload the bobbin! It has a clever little trapdoor. :)
  
• I also really like how the metal plate around the needle has 1/4", 1/2" and 5/8" lines right on it that extend farther than the quarter-inch foot does, to help with accuracy.
  
  Things you hate: I don't really like the automatic thread cutter feature. I don't use it much, but when I do I inevitably end up having to rethread the needle, and who likes doing that? Not me, that's who.
  
  There are features that I admittedly do NOT use - I don't use the needle threader and I don't use the knee lever thing.
  
  Any continuous problems? I feel like I have to rethread it a lot, but that could just be me being unaware of some sort of feature or something.
  
  Would you buy this machine again if it broke down today? Absolutely.
  
  Additional thoughts or special info: This machine is hefty. It is 24 pounds. I would not want to travel with it, nor would I recommend this as a primary machine as it is ONLY straight stitch and if you ever do anything else, well, you're SOL. That said I definitely like the machine and feel it was a very good investment. I am able to do much bigger projects with it than I could before and it has been a great second machine for me.
  
  Here is another review of this machine.

We used "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" by Helen Joseph-Armstrong for our first patternmaking class and reference it all the way through our senior design classes. It's an awesome reference book--almost any project/design I've had I've been able to find the alteration I've wanted in this book, or at least the basic starting point. It has a LOT of information/ideas, so sometimes jumping into more advanced techniques can be a bit daunting if you haven't learned or at the very least read through the basics. I haven't purchased and used them yet, but if you're looking for some cooler patterning techniques I've heard both first hand from classmates and in general online that the Pattern Magic books are amazing.

For draping we used "Draping Basics" by Sally Di Marco. I think this book is a good reference, but my professor thought it wasn't the most beginner-friendly. I didn't struggle with it throughout my classes and think it's great, but it can be a bit dense to read through if you don't have a teacher/person demonstrating the technique in front of you and have no previous draping experience. Again, great reference and has tons of info, just takes a tad more effort if you've never sewn or draped before before you pick up on the terminology/patterns of what they're doing.

The last really good book I'd recommend is "Professional Sewing Techniques" by Julie Cole/Sharon Czachor. newbies to sewing may need to Google some terms now and then, but it's perfect for all the little details--all the different types of pockets and how to sew them, different methods of creating tucks and pleats, etc. Say I know I want a specific detail, like a cuffed sleeve: I can look it up and see all the different ways they do it in the industry (all of which are easily doable on a home sewing machine) and see all the subtle differences those techniques make. For costuming, it can help you be more accurate and it's great to see all the variations laid out in front of you. It also makes a massive difference in how professional things end up looking.

TL;DR The three books in the links above should have you covered for flat patterning, draping, and all the little details that make your costume/clothing look professional and well-finished. Knowing at least the basics of sewing is recommended for the draping book, but the rest of the terminology used in all three beginners should be able to Google and understand no problem!

(Edit: formatting)

Hello everyone! I've been having a lot of fun with this latest project. I've learned a lot

1. Hoops for a project that is over 10 inches both ways sucks.
   
   
2. I love this lap stand that a poster here suggested (thank you whoever it was!! Maybe u/wildviolet ?). Notice how each side is adjustable? That means when I am doing this big project, I can shorten one side, have it sit on the arm of my chair, have the other leg longer ...so the project is the same height, but the whole thing doesn't have to be centered on my lap. That has Really helped with shoulder pain, as I don't have to reach as far to get to the far left (or right) of the frame, and I can still sit in my comfy recliner.
   
   
3. Always check the size of the pattern before you buy it. I thought awww cute... a little bull dog for my friend. Bought it, went to buy materials and it's the largest project I've done to date! I decided to do it anyways, Luckily she can't complain about size as it's a gift ;)
   
   
4. Cats love lap stands. Picture of proof included.
   
   
5. Must have cat free room/space to store lap stand if you have cats. You just can't leave it in your chair, they would get on it way too much.
   
   
6. I love the John James petite needles. I thought they would be too small after they arrived. But after a few weeks of using them on this, they work great! I haven't had an threads break due to the eyes. Every eye fit the needle minder. I even bought some regular size needles to try from john james, but haven't bothered to try them yet.
   
   
7. Magnetic bored is nice to hold the chart. BUT. I highly suggest get one with a stand. The flat laying one gets annoying. So does it being smaller then the paper size, as the edges get all bent up. Maybe I will buy a better one when I can afford it.
   
   
8. the recommended amount of floss sometimes is not near enough. I don't know what they did their calculations on, but woah. I ran out of the main navy blue color by the first page.
   
   
9. Hobby Lobby is MUCH nicer then joann's in my town for cross stitch.
   
   10 . Hobby lobby has a 90 day return policy. So, after I ran out of floss, I went there, bought a whole handful of the same lot. What I don't use, I can return! As long as I don't put it on a bobbin. This way I make sure to get all I need in the same lot, but don't waste too much money
   
   
10. the bobbin cranks are a waste of money. I will be returning the one I bought. It's just 2 dollars, but it's useless.
    
    I think that is enough lessons for now. Hope everyone is having a great day.

You're doing way better than you think you are!

I'm probably gonna repeat things other people said but here we go:

1. You should trim the squares before joining them together, that way you know for sure they will match (you need to cut the square by taking the diagonal line on the ruler and using the diagonal line on the sew line so that the square is perfect, that way the diagonal sew line will end directly in the corner of the square, I hope this makes sense lol). Trimming the squares will also make it so you have less fabric overhanging in your edges (but having some is fine, dont worry about that, it all gets sewed up anyways! =P)
   
2. For sewing straight, try not to move the fabric too much and just let machine moving, I realized 90% of the "moving" was actually me, the machine will stay "fairly" straight if you leave it, specially for smaller pieces like we use. I also have a foot that measures 1/4', so as long as the edge of my fabric lines up with the edge of the foot (which is easy to keep track while you sew) you should be perfect! (Also, I notice that when my lines aren't perfectly straight nothing really happens unless it's ridiculously skewed, so again, no stressing!)
   
3. Use pins or clips!!! I go these from amazon and I love them! So I guess the real trick for things to line up is just to make sure you clip them together (or pin them). So for example, in your pinwheel, you started with 4 squares an sewed the ones next to each other together....there's nothing really to line up there. Then you have to do top and bottom, I would line up the centers first, and triple make sure that those are right, and then I keep pinning from the inside to the outside....My outside might not always match up 100% but what matters the most is the points so I dont think it's a problem =P
   
   I'm also a beginner so message me if you want a quilting buddy!!! =D These are some pinwheels I made like 2 weeks ago! =P
   
   ​
   
   PS: This is your first block ever and you didn't chose the easiest one soooo GO YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In that case, it seems like he has a really good appetite and may just not be storing much fat, yet (which is normal). A couple things I would do is get a small scale and a tape measure, just to track if he's growing, and just record the numbers in a note on your phone or simple Excel spreadsheet, along with how much he's eating, so you don't have to rely on your memory to spot any trends if he never grows or starts losing weight.

The scale I use is this one, currently $8.50 on Amazon, and a flexible tape measure like this, currently $4.85. I also second making sure he doesn't have intestinal parasites, which is something I would do even if he wasn't showing any symptoms, as infections like coccidia are extremely common and easy to spread within clutches. (Most vet clinics in my area will do a fecal test for under $20).

All that said, there's nothing from your post which would make me think there's something wrong with your dragon. Tracking the babies for the first couple of months is just something I do for peace of mind.

Good luck!

Edit: Here's an article about determining if your bearded dragon is underweight (though the method mostly applies to adults), as well as some tips for getting them to gain some weight. "2 Surefire Ways To Make a Bearded Dragon Gain Weight And Fatten Them Up"

I am going to my first Slipknot show in September (been a fan since the early 2000s, but seeing them just hasnt worked out) and decided I would make a mask for the show. But first, I have questions regarding the current tour.

​

I got the duality exp. for me and a friend and dont really know what to expect. The website says the show starts at 5:30, but I cant seem to find info based on when doors open or when the "early access" is. Just need to figure out when we should arrive, so if anyone has info, I would greatly appreciate it.

​

On to the mask...

I bought a (very basic) tool kit from amazon (linked below) and some veg tan leather (2.0 mm). The photo shows my progress so far. I plan on gluing the same red material I used to make the logo on the cutouts around the eyes and was also considering doing some sort of stitching around the entire edge of the mask.

I have absolutely zero experience with leather and am not really sure about what to do to really set it off. I am okay with it looking pretty rudimentary, but any tips you guys might have would be greatly appreciated. Especially regarding finishing edges, any sort of carving or design tips, etc. I know a lot of you have made masks, so hopefully you all have some feedback.

The most important part for me now is the strap system and how to put something somewhat comfortable onto it.

​

Here's the tool kit: https://www.amazon.com/Leather-SIMPZIA-Stitching-Groover-Beginner/dp/B06XDMB7H5/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=leather+tools&qid=1565699793&s=gateway&sr=8-3

To be honest, you're asking a lot for your budget. If you want to sit next to the speaker and be able to listen to it at a reasonable volume, something like this would probably work well enough: http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Wireless-Bluetooth-Speaker-High-Def/dp/B00GZC35YK/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1427349938&sr=1-9&keywords=portable+speaker

But if you want to be able to actually be active and hear your music, you're going to have to get something much bigger. That said, you can do it without breaking your budget.

My advice would be to by a pair of these: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Powered-Computer-Speakers-A100/dp/B00GHY5F3K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427350132&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+speakers

Power them with this: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-13000mAh-Portable-External-Cellphones/dp/B00K64WR9C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427350210&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+pack

And fasten them all together with this stuff (it's incredibly strong, trust me) http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-All-Weather-Fasteners-Inches-RFD7090/dp/B00347A8EO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1427350273&sr=8-7&keywords=dual+lock

That comes in at around $49 and while it's not going to blast your music, it will do you much better than any sub $50 bluetooth speaker.

Now if you're willing to spend some extra money, get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Wireless-Bluetooth-Speaker-Speakerphone/dp/B00E9YIFQ4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1427350482&sr=8-8&keywords=ultimate+ears

I can attest from personal experience that it's a pretty powerful little speaker, sounds great, and you can pair two of them for stereo listening.

What kind of quilting do you do? If you don't do a lot of applique, I'd consider getting this or this. Both are straight stitch only, but have generous harp space and will do a lot of piecing and quilting. Modern Singers have a pretty dubious reputation and both of these brands are generally better thought of.

The other thing I'd suggest is looking around for a used machine. I currently have 2 vintage machines, a Singer 15-91 (another straight stitch only), Singer Rocketeer (does a variety of stitches). If you're mechanically minded there are quite a number of them around and a lot of information about restoring them. If you aren't, there are a number of people who restore and then sell them. Might be worth considering since these machines are practically indestructible and you can do all their maintenance yourself.

I also have a used Janome Horizon MC 7000, which I found on Craigslist for $800. It was scary to buy something that expensive, but the lady selling it taught me how to use it (which helped show me it wasn't a lemon) and there are a couple quilt shops that service Janomes around me. Because I bought used I was able to get a >$2500 machine for a fraction of the cost.

Just some things to think about! Best of luck!

Gorruck 34L GR2 Coyote Tan - a good bag, heavy, uncomfortable, probably give it to my grandchildren in like 50 years

Flip Flops - generic things

Bigblue 28W solar charger - very good, can charge my battery up during the day if i leave it in the sun which I've never really done honestly

Jakemy hardware tools - seamed useful? i've never needed this

Army glove shells - i thought i used these a lot and were indistructable but now that i think of it, i don't use them that often and are probably pretty cheaply made.

Sharpie, pen, all weather notebook - probably should switch over to a fisher space pen...

Straws - these are probably already broken.

Whistle - really really really loud

Fire-striker, matches, lighter - i'm not sure i have enough ways to start a fire

Fresnel lens - ok, now i have enough

LED flashlight - i used to go running in the middle of the night with this flashlight, its tiny

LED flashlight - this isn't the one i have but looks kinda similar? i don't remember where i got mine

Earbuds - generic cheap earbuds

Leatherman Surge - given to me by my wife for passing the bar. thanks wife!

First Aide kit - i put mine together from stuff i've stolen from friends houses whenever i go over and use the bathroom

playing cards - these look very similar to the ones i have, they are plastic so they won't get rained on

glasses/ sunglasses - i have really bad vision

personal hygiene kit - aahhhh dry shaving

Sawyer Mini / syringe, collapsible canteen (dirty), heavy duty straw - i've never used this

collapsible canteen (clean) - i've never used this either

sewing kit - i've used this a lot

ID tags - i guess if i get blown up they'll know my blood type?

garbage bag - for when my pockets are full

elastic bands - i use these when packing to keep rolled socks and things from falling apart

Salt - i have nooooo idea why i have this

cooking grate - i'm not going to hold meat over a fire with a stick like some sort of caveman

heavy duty ziplock bag - in case my mapcase breaks and other reasons

rip-patch - leftover from when i needed a pack because i bought a crummy cheap inflatable sleeping pad.

Army Fleece Beanie - i always keep this at the top of my pack

4 Bungie Cords - not the one i use but similar. to make a field-expedient shelter

Trowel - for disposal of biological wastes

Lensatic compass - because GPS should only be a backup

Pocketboy 130 folding saw - i have a bigger one for yardwork, this small one is really great

Tent stakes - for tent staking

Ravpower 26800 Battery - use this all the time can fast chage my stuff

Battery Battery holder, cables, wall charger - all fits togehter like glove!

Army Poncho - wear it, make a tent out of it etc

Microfiber towel - not the one i use but similar. i mainly use this for when the kids accidentally fall in a lake like they tend to do for some reason

Down Jacket - cheap chinese knockoff... i feel bad for not buying american

Wet weather top - not sure this is worth the space/weight

Wet Weather bottom - not sure if this is worth the weight/space

Silkweights - PJs! and warmth

Jungle Blanket - this is a lot better than the army's woobie. lighter and warmer

Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet - again, gift from wife. she wanted me to chop things and be more manly, generally. now i come home with parts of wildlife for her to cook

Map of New England - or, how i stopped worrying and love dismounted land navigation

PT belt - keeps me safe in all situations

Compression straps - i don't like lashing things to the outside but i guess i can if i wanted to

Fork and Spoon - stole these from the kitchen. i'll probably be replacing this soon with something titanium.

​

EDIT: i just priced it out: $1,585.08 total

New Complete Guide to Sewing for general sewing techniques.

For tailoring men's clothes, Classic Tailoring Techniques (and women's.)

For pattern drafting, Winnifred Aldrich has a great line of books.
There's also Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design, casual and tailored. As well as Patternmaking for Fashion Design.

For corsets, Waisted Efforts and The Basics of Corset Building are good.

For making shirts, Shirtmaking.

For learning to sew stretch/knit fabrics, Sew U: Home Stretch is pretty good.

And for just having a bunch of fun with patterns, the Pattern Magic series is plain awesome. I think there's three of them out now.

Edit: thought of more!

The Art of Manipulating Fabric is great. And www.threadsmagazine.com as well as the corresponding print publication.

I think part of it is that I’m not aware of this being taught in trade schools. Take this with a grain of salt, because my experience is with theater costuming in middle, high school, and college (including designing costumes for a play), home sewing, and historical re-enactment, but my major was neuroscience in college, so my knowledge is less extensive than a fashion major.

I have been sewing; however, for more than two decades.

That being said, Rosika Parker’s The Subversive Stitch makes a pretty good argument for the historic devaluing of sewing during the Middle Ages with concurrent social movements to restrict female power.

Here’s my perception of the hierarchies in the different careers and the education requirements (see further down)

1. fashion designer
   
2. line/season/show manager
   
3. higher level seamstress (might manage a couple outfits)
   
4. likely more layers of hierarchy
   
5. underlings (actually sewing the outfit parts)
   
   .
   
   
6. costume designer
   
7. levels of hierarchy (sorry)
   
8. underlings (actually doing most of the sewing)
   
   Here’s what I’m aware of for schooling (skewed because my experience is at a four year university)
   
   

• four year universities have majors in fashion design (which includes flat and dress model pattern drafting as well as rendering the patterns and concept art online), costuming (similar to fashion design but with more of a theater focus), and theater management (which includes designing concept art for plays, choosing and altering costumes, hair, and makeup)
  
  
• whatever the name for the fashion design seamstresses who manage an outfit for a fashion designer’s show is a one year masters program after four year university (for more info check out Zoe Hong on YouTube)
  
  
• theater set work (including costume making and alteration; not management) and (less sure for this) the actual sewing and embroidery work for fashion design is more of an apprenticeship area of work. You get hired already knowing how to sew and then receive on the job training to meet the costume designer’s standard (for theater and fashion design)
  
  
• and then there’s the tangential stuff like preserving and repairing historical garments for museums (likely masters maybe grad school) or working at historical sites like Jamestown, Williamsburg, etc. which from my understanding are also more of an apprenticeship (William & Mary undergrads are allowed to do this for the summer, so a college degree is not required)
  
  You might have better luck hunting down your local theater (you might be able to do this with fashion designer houses too; no idea) and asking for the required qualifications to be hired.
  
  For historical costuming, try an apprenticeship or membership with your local re-enactment society or SCA
  
  For learning how to sew (may not include pattern drafting, rendering patterns digitally, or concept art generation) try your local sewing machine service shop (search vacuum service shops too because they overlap).
  
  Here are some books to recommend:
  
  Fashion:
  
  For someone who already sews
  
  Here are ones I feel I have to include, but they’re kind of impractical:
  
  
  
• Patternmaking for fashion design by Helen Joseph Armstrong (textbook; too expensive to just buy)
  
  
• Draping for Apparel Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong (textbook; too
  
  Here are cheaper options
  
  
• Transformative Reconstruction by Shingo Sato
  
  
• Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi
  
  For learning to sew
  
  
• The Singer Complete Photo Guide to Sewing
  
  
• I don’t recommend Gertie Sews books for beginners because several of the patterns are misdrafted, also ignore older (pre mid 2000s) Burda Patterns because the seam allowances are wrong or inconsistent between patterns
  
  Historical Reconstruction
  
  For someone who already sews:
  
  
• Patterns of Fashion series by Janet Arnold
  
  
• Copies of historical fashion magazines like La Mode Universelle Ilustree (in French) and Harpers Bazaar are sold on EBay. They are only in one size and therefore require pattern drafting and alteration knowledge to use.
  
  
• Reconstructing History
  
  
• Laughing Moon

You can remove them but I personally just leave them attached all the time, I don't find that they get in the way of anything. I use this chair for my normal computer stuff too, the brackets haven't changed anything. Here's a picture of how my chair looks with the brackets to give you a better idea (don't mind the messy cables on the floor). My previous chair wasn't as wide as this one, so the brackets kind of squished my legs a little when I was sitting in it, but it's not a problem with my current chair.

The brackets are very sturdy, you can swivel and rotate them but it takes a lot of force to do so. There's no movement at all when I use my joystick. The only thing is with the velcro - over time, after you've attached and un-attached your joystick so many times, it loses its strength, in which case the joystick does wiggle around a little bit. I personally just replace the velcro every once in a while, and that works fine for me. You could try a heavier duty velcro if it's a concern. I've been using this kind and it's been good enough for me. Hope this helps!

Whoa! Mind = blown. I have a pretty similar setup. The Singer Heavy Duty 4423 was my first. I have a walking foot, too... basically the cheapo version of the Sailrite Fabricator. The machine I use 90% of the time though is a high speed straight stitch machine. Mine's a Babylock that I got a deal on a floor model of, but this Brother one is identical and significantly cheaper if you have to buy new.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0149GG9V4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_VqqUDbPN7V4YK

All 3 of my machines are mechanical. I've tried some fancy ones and they feel like alien technology. Do you use a lot of the special stitches on the Singer? If you're straight stitching 90% of the time and love the beautiful straight seams on a higher end machine it's probably not worth it to drop the money on something with features you'll barely use, but to put it into something that does the thing you do the most exceptionally well. I keep the Singer around for the occasional zigzag or overcast and it can handle that role. I definitely felt like I was beating the hell out of it when it was the main machine. If I get more into making clothes, I do have my eye on that same Juki though!

> This is what I was talking about:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524798079&sr=8-3&keywords=eyelet+kit
>
> I feel like enough of those, along with some good paracord and a properly anchored hook, would do the job

Interesting thank you!! That just may do it :D I wish they said what the grommets were made of (am thinking that if they're a weak tin that they'd break easier), though if I order that and have 100 grommets I could literally put like 20 on the thing and use paracord (I've got some on-hand that'd be perfect for this) through them all to make a 'net' at the top that terminates at a hook so I can hang it from a chain (as it'll be an outside punching bag, am hanging it from a tree-limb :) )

Thanks, I found some felt my mother had from another project, and I think I agree that this is the ideal stuff. I had imagined felt to be more cottony and easily frayed, but it seems really stable.

Have you ever used this iron on hemming tape? http://www.amazon.com/IRON-ON-HEMMING-TAPE/dp/B005O9WU9Q
Seems like I might save myself a ton of time if that works reasonably well for this project.

Are you trying it again because you think you messed up on this one? You certainly did NOT mess up on this one. It's gorgeous! I wish I had the skills to do it. Maybe I'll try that tutorial you linked. In any case, it's definitely a job well done on your part :)!

 

My grandma on my dad's side was full Japanese and told me about this style of bodice and mentioned Tomoko Nakamichi's (the creator of this style of bodice) book called Pattern Magic way back in 2010 when the book came out. She bought the book but I have no clue where it went after she died. My grandma wasn't a seamstress by trade but she did enjoy sewing and would always support Japanese designers lol. I don't know how she heard about Tomoko Nakamichi's book but I'm glad she did so I could share it with you years later lol.

Welcome to the sub! :D! I have never needed something so badly that I don't need at all: GLOWY STAR STAR WHAT

I mean look at it. The hell. It's the happiest motherfucking star there is. Look at that shit-eating grin. And look at all of those fancy colours. It knows how fancy it is. I want to be that fancy. And it's cute. And... and it's cute and I love it i love it ^^^^i ^^^^love ^^^^it

Sunday Funday

Number 69 giggity giggity giggity

​So originally, my thought was buying blank seal and send card stock (LCI Paper has blanks that are ready to print) and running them through a laser printer.

After talking with my friend, M, I made an Excel template (Download, and then zoom out til you can see it all!) to give her that kind of outlines it. I created a blank one you can download here. In my head, 1 pixel = 0.01 inch, so each row is .25" high, each column is 0.25" wide, with each square with a dotted outline is one square inch.

Using my Excel sheet mockup (and a bunch of Pinterest inspiration), M created our proofs for a digital printer she works with. Most printers should be able to at least print it, as the full size is 12.75" long by 6" wide, which would be 1 invite to 1 piece of legal sized cardstock. Ideally, they could cut it down to size, and then perforate and fold it for you, but worst case, that part can be done with a paper cutter, self healing mat, bone folder, and perforating tool (I really like this one, but definitely use a ruler or something to guide you as it's pretty easy to curve off track).


The more folds and perforations the printer does, the more expensive it gets, of course, but the design and printing are the hardest parts!

I was actually inspired by another reddit users work here:

https://reddit.com/r/EDC/comments/67h8i3/my_attempt_at_a_hitch_timber_style_wallet/

Basically followed his instructions and did some googling where needed.

I bought these tools to start but didn’t really use all of them:

Leather Sewing Tools SIMPZIA 24 Pieces Leather Tools Craft DIY Hand Stitching Kit with Groover Awl Waxed Thimble Thread for Sewing Leather, Canvas or Other Leathercraft Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDMB7H5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BaBPAbKQ70BF4

From that kit I used the groover, awl, thread.

I also bought an edge beveler, and burnishing stick as well as leather cement, dye, neatsfoot oil, acrylic resolene sealer.

I’d estimate about $100 total spent including enough leather to make many, many more wallet size pieces.

I probably wouldn’t buy that kit again. I’d get a nicer groover, awl, and something better to make he stitch holes(maybe one of the fork style tools, I’m still researching)

Yeah, I also shop online unless I'm away and feeling confident. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071XGLB1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 One of these tape measures for body measuring will be your new best friend. I shop at Amazon a lot. I like H&M for some basics, including undies. And there are store galore that specialize in whatever style you want to cultivate. If having things shipped to your home is a problem, and you don't have the option of receiving packages at work, Amazon also has pick up location options.

-cable tray(s) $22 - perfect for screwing into a think desk like yours, power strips can live in here as well

-nylon/velcro ties $7 - possibly cheaper at your local hardware store

With kush white walls like that a lil cable management might improve how you feel walking in every day!

Nice setup. Foot warmer could use some RGB tho

I would not recommend doing this without an airbrush unless you're a very, very good brush painter, and only then, with very good tape that you can burnish to the surface and make sure there is no bleed through.

The most difficult parts of this is (1) making your tracings correct, and (2) making sure there's no bleed. While some people can do tracings (and by this, I mean cutting it out) by hand, like on a good day, I can do it, it's really better to use a very sharp blade with a ruler (frankly, a Swann Morton scapel will be much better for this than a x-acto, for example, as it is far sharper), and in the case of curved cuts, to use a compass cutter. There are other models (I actually don't like the OLFA one that much), but this one is well known. There was a user here recently who recommended something else, but I can't remember what it was (and wish I knew).

https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-9911-Compass-Circle-Cutter/dp/B000BK7NWC

The most standard ruler to start with is a 6"x24".

It will do almost all your cutting, and will adapt to a surprising amount of work.

This will be my next one (cause it is just that cool). But honestly, you have to be able to read measurements off of this. Omnigrid makes the easiest to read, but take a look at different ones and see what is good for YOU!

Florescent Green Ruler

​

No matter what ruler you get, you can always make them grippier! Try something like these:

Non Slip rings

​

This is my favorite mat. It has lasted over 20 years. It is thicker than other brands. (and cheaper!)

Alvin Mat

Awesome! Thanks mate.Found Some Extra Patches on Amazon as well. you'll have to put your own Velcro Backing on But that's easy enough.

Patches

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KD7Q1W4/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07KD7Q1W4&pd_rd_w=OmVXL&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=OkvH5&pf_rd_r=K79AX4NW6269AD6052P1&pd_rd_r=22321f11-6c34-11e9-94d4-49728df24266

​

Large Jacked Patch.

https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Mission-Patch-Collage-Nasa/dp/B00ON7CMY8/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=Nasa+Patches&qid=1556730113&s=gateway&sr=8-14#customerReviews

​

Velcro Options:https://www.amazon.com/Approx-Adhestive-Strips-Sticky-Fastener/dp/B01AI28QFU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=iron+on+velcro&qid=1556730302&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/BRAVESHINE-Self-Adhesive-Hook-Loop/dp/B07DC5C4WW/ref=sr_1_21?keywords=iron%2Bon%2Bvelcro&qid=1556730302&s=gateway&sr=8-21&th=1

Edit: Correcting Links

Go to your local fabric store and buy a yard of rip-stop nylon for around $5 and a cordlock (or this kit from ripstopbytheroll). If you don't already have one yourself, find a friend or relative that has a sewing machine. Watch this video. In about 20 minutes, you will be the proud owner of a brand new stuff sack that is exactly the right size (with that yard of fabric you can actually make a few stuff sacks!). Then post a picture of your creation over on /r/MYOG and prepare for the onslaught of karma you will receive for your amazing creation!

I'd recommend putting them on some plastic thread bobbins. You can get a bunch on Amazon for like $5 or $6 bucks. You can write the thread number in sharpie on the bobbin if you need to keep track.

The other thing would be to get a thread organizer. I've got two of these and they're pretty great. It comes with the thread bobbins and stickers w/ DMC numbers on them as well.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M15BBX5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hope you love it as much as I love mine! I have the Diana Frame with the Z shaped legs - you can buy it as a set with a scroll frame on amazon for about $45.

One of the first reviews on there is really detailed and she shows you how you can change the leg set up from a Z to a C shape to accommodate your needs.

heres a link: https://www.amazon.com/GONCHAROFF-EMBROIDERY-ORGANIC-COMPLETE-TAPESTRY/dp/B01CMFSGU6/ref=sr_1_11?crid=3AQZXU38ELK7G&keywords=scroll+frame&qid=1570394420&s=arts-crafts&sprefix=scroll+frame%2Cgarden%2C203&sr=1-11

I mean, can't they change their company name? I guess its probably not cheap, but then this is a problem literally because they have been too successful in their marketing

edit: Maybe I'm wrong, not an expert, but it seems to me they are in this predicament because they advertised their products as Velcro, not Velcro hook and loop.

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Strips/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=velcro&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Strips-Black/dp/B000TGSPV6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=velcro&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Back-Black/dp/B00006IC2L/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-6&keywords=velcro

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Black/dp/B00006RSP1/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-7&keywords=velcro

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Thin-Fasteners-Tape/dp/B0013AIAQ2/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-10&keywords=velcro

None of them list hook and loop anywhere, though to their credit they do list Velcro BRAND very clearly. And one of them does mention the product type as fastener. They should start advertising and packaging them as Velco brand hook and loop fasteners. That way if someone challenges their trademark in court, they can point out that every single one of their product's promotional material clearly separates the product from the company - right now, that's not clear in their own marketing (outside this video of course).

So I think people make it sound harder than it is. I ordered this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FMUJ8BO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AI28QFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I made paper cutouts of the rough shape of the sliders I want, transfered that to the teflon (with sharpie or so). Cut it out with a saw roughly and then just sanded with 120 to more precise shape, 200 to make it smooth, 600 to "polish" and then some sheep skin for really smooth edges at the end. The velcro stuff glued on to it out of the box and so far after couple months of curling having no issues with it adhering either to shoe nor teflon. The etched ones were expensive. I switches shoes since so the slider isn't perfect shape anymore, but still works perfectly well for curling so far. I also bought 2-component glue and all kinds of fancy chemicals to make it stick better, but the Chinese velcro has some magic glue on it already. Don't overthink it and just give it a try.

https://imgur.com/FVy61PE

P.S. with size 9, the 12x12 sheet was a bit tight, but should work up to 11 or so, depending what size slider you need. You can probably experiment with the hole in the middle etc. I also purchased these: https://www.stevescurling.com/product-p/sldisc.htm but they are a bit thin and don't slide fast enough imo, prefer the PTFE 1/4". Feel free to shoot me more questions, but it's really much simpler than it seems and a lot of people make it out to be.

If you're a groomsman or best man one of the most important EDC items you can carry is is a mini sewing kit.

You should have one around the house, anyway, for those times you're about to go for a job interview and your shirt or jacket decides today is the day to 'stick it to The Man'.

You don't have to carry that whole kit. Just pull out a needle, a bobbin of black thread and of white, maybe the scissors if you're not deft at using your knife for fine work, and a few safety pins of different sizes.

Put it in an Altoids tin, or you can buy these or these. Both fit easily in a shirt or jacket pocket. I use the Altoids size ones in all my EDC packs because they have a plain lid and I use a label maker to tag what's in each one for quickly finding what I need, and they don't have that fresh minty smell, which I'm not a big fan of.

ha ha ha! I sure hope so... I already have some rope and Velcro straps so this will be a nice alternative to add some variety.

Congratulations on your 8 month sobriety!! <3

HAPPY BIRTHDAY HDATZ

My little dude would flip his lid over this. :]

I've used this to add velcro to a bunch of stuff. Super strong and reasonably priced. I needed to add a cloth badge onto the front of my carrier and couldn't find way to make it easy to remove. Worked very well. I've even had leftover velcro that I have used for other projects.

https://amzn.to/2WLuWqi

Looks like a cutting mat. I’ve got a great big one that covers my whole desk. Black on one side, and green on the other. They work really well as basic worktable surfaces.

US Art Supply 24" x 36" GREEN/BLACK Professional Self Healing 5-Ply Double Sided Durable Non-Slip PVC Cutting Mat Great for Scrapbooking, Quilting, Sewing and all Arts & Crafts Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L5I8RTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JHMXCbHCH132P

The cast members who will trade to you will (should) have a special tag at the end of their lanyard that says something to the effect of "Hey, I'll trade pins with you!"

Maybe someone has a picture of what I'm talking about?

Re: putting your pins on a backpack, I really like this idea! :D You can purchase lockable backs for your pins at any of the shops at WDW. I'm also relatively certain you can find them cheaper online.

Something like this although I can't guarantee -these- will work with Disney pins, the ones in the Disney shops definitely will.

If you use these locking backs, then you don't have to worry about them falling off of your backpack!

I'm the same way with perforated pages and game items. XD You might want to look into getting something like this and keep it on you/in your pen case so you can always make more perforated pages when you want. :)

The felt does both. The glass spacer doesn’t have the curve that follows the edge of the headset so the felt blocks light and gets the proper angle so the pad is actually resting on something. Everything is fastened by the adhesive of the felt or Velcro but I did use string to tighten a few places.

I use VELCRO Brand Industrial Strength Fasteners | Stick-On Adhesive | Professional Grade Heavy Duty Strength Holds up to 10 lbs on Smooth Surfaces | Indoor Outdoor Use | 4 x 2 inch Strips, 4 Sets, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k7EsDbRW79609

This is the same Velcro I used to attach DAS it’s easy to cut to shape and applies very firmly.

Fabric scissors are always good gifts

Quilt clips

Chalk pens

Also I think most quilters would love charm packs and jellyrolls

I find the upside-down, shin-mounted controller method the most natural for foot tracking too. I've had good luck with one inch velcro one-wrap. One strip between the trigger and closest sensor, and one higher up the leg/controller.

The Vive wand naturally wants to settle off the actual bone of the shin towards the outside of the leg and foot. This position also seems to be a little less prone to occlusion issues.

I'm going to pick up a pair of the flipsteady VCM1 controller mounts a user posted below since they look nice and sturdy.

Official lighthouse-enabled foot-tracking is probably on the way, but it's nice to experiment until then!

Haha, it’s a “mounting system” that I’m actually super happy with!

Just two long pieces of Velcro strapping (about 1” wide) threaded over the desk frame but under the desk top. The Velcro overlaps itself around the bottom of the case, by about 18”. I also stuck a plastic door bumper between the case and the desk leg, to keep the case hanging more or less vertical.

It’s very very solid. Much more than I would have anticipated. I can hit the power button on the case without any movement at all.

Here is an Amazon link to the straps

Just today I bought some materials, I bought a cheap cutting board, a small and large metal ruler, a leather sewing kit from amazon, a 12"x12" of 4oz, and 12"x12" of 2oz.

For my first attempt, I'm going to omit the ID window and add another two slots for cards. Once I somewhat know what I'm doing I'm going to go for the ID slot. I should get all the materials in about a week or so. I'll keep you updated. I've seen some videos on how to clean up the edges once finished, I'm ot quite sure what tools I'll need for that. Some videos looked like almost a soldering iron, some looked like they used some sort of wheel.

Hey thanks a lot!

It's holding up using the strongest velcro tape I could find at my local hardware store.
It's strong enough as it doesn't move at all even my I plug or unplug XLR cables from it.

I think that's exactly what I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA

Have you used the homemade baste? I was thinking of using that between the extra layer and blocks then again between the regular layers.

The store bought stuff is pricey.

I also received a box of these clip things along with natural batting as a gift. Hopefully they'll help me out:

MumCraft Multipurpose Sewing Clips with Tin Box Package, Assorted Colors, Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PNIWT2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I would say it's as close to the vive w/ DAS as the quest could be comfort-wise, an immense improvement overall. The face cushion of the vive is more plush but that's the only difference IMO.

Links are in the description, but here they are as well:

• HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap - http://amzn.com/B06Y2GDXMC
  
• VELCRO Industrial Strength Strips: http://amzn.com/B0010HADEA
  
• 1 Inch Velcro Straps (The ones I used, but you can find better): http://amzn.com/B074V2MFMC
  
• 1 Inch Velcro Straps (Better ones): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0TTPL8
  
• 1.5 Inch D Ring: http://amzn.com/B076J5RVNW
  
  edit: added new velcro

These Brother 1500's are pretty popular if you don't need any deco stitches. I'm no sure if you'd be able to run a 220v machine up to normal speed here in the US unless it had a voltage switch like some industrial machines.

I would use something like this plastic velcro which could also give the games a floating effect from the back. You could alternatively use standard velcro but it would be harder to keep them perfectly level.

Like others have said dog bed with rubber bottom should help. If you want it more secured add this to the bottom of the bed.

The glue would probably be overdoing it a bit, though it'd depend on the thickness/rigidity of the sheet.

Laser cutters are pretty special bits of equipment. A cheaper option may be to use a circle cutter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-9911-Compass-Circle-Cutter/dp/B000BK7NWC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=circle+cutter&qid=1569064971&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I honestly think you're shilling these all wrong because you're missing the whole point. You keep downplaying that they are magnetic but thats the main selling point of the product.

There are plenty of options for locking pin backs out there (those are three different links), and these screw-on types are actually reviled by many for warping the studs on the back of pins, or leaving dents on it.

Again, the ability to turn pins into magnets is absolutely brilliant. Locking pin backs is not new territory.

You can try one of those plastic cutting mats for sewing. One of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L5I8RTW/ref=zg_bs_262643011_13?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YMBFT6YKR9K9KT8FAF8H some of them are better quality than others, and they come in different sizes.

I roll out my smaller doughs on a silicone baking mat. This is the exact one I have, and I love it! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IY1C7D0/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1511365887&sr=1-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

I used this table and will end up supporting it on both sides with 9 cube shelves which gives a lot a storage. I have a 36 x 24 cutting mat. I read about someone using the cube shelves which makes the table about 36" high so I decided to try it, I like the height and I'm pretty short at just barely 5'4"

this would be super helpful and thanks for doing this contest!

I used double sided Velcro “tape” a few weeks ago. Wrapped it twice around my leg at different heights and it worked perfectly. Can get a roll of it for $6-$7 and it has a ton of other nice uses.

VELCRO Brand - ONE-WRAP Roll, Double-Sided, Self Gripping Multi-Purpose Hook and Loop Tape, Reusable, 12' x 3/4" Roll - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000078CUB/

USB docking station may help or any type of docking station

Little things can help like :

-cable length (use length you need not anything longer; especially for the permanent fixtures that won't require alot of moving)

-bundle the wires up. I'll provide some examples

1)https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Management-Sleeve-additional-velcro/dp/B01N3ZTRWH/ref=sr_1_7?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1501796199&sr=1-7&keywords=velcro+wire

2)https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000078CUB/ref=sr_1_6?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1501796199&sr=1-6&keywords=velcro+wire

To solve the pricking yourself with pins problem-- try sewing clips! I bought these from Amazon and I think they're great. I find pinning stuff can sometimes distort the fabric, and you can't pin some fabrics because it leaves holes. They don't totally replace pins since you can only work from the edges with these, but they are really nice regardless!

Get some cord locks like these

Set up a few along the length of the wire and move them back as you go. If you do it right it should keep everything in line pretty well.

you can try something like this, https://www.amazon.com/Approx-Adhestive-Strips-Sticky-Fastener/dp/B01AI28QFU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RAQ8RH8B64KGGQGA7DST. which is attached via adhesives on both the patch and the box. once they are both secured, you can stick the patch on or take it off the box whenever you'd like.

What about something like this or something like this that’s easily just snapped closed and put away? That’s how I keep my floss away from dogs who consider everything “theirs” 😂. I also keep my WIP in something like this so I’m able to keep it out of dust and pet hair while still being both portable and easily storable.

You can get hemming tape that doesn't require sewing - you just place it between the fabric and iron it, which melts the adhesive. Like this It's really nice if you don't/can't sew and just need to make a straight edge

I used this. Took a few tries on scrap foamcore to get the hang of it, but really happy in the end.

OLFA 9911 CMP-1 Compass Circle Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BK7NWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n3nwDbMEMY3MJ

Made myself some new mouth protection with a steelmouth, hair bands, elastic bands, and some rough stitching. The hairbands go around your ears to hold it in place. I kept the straps a little loose so I can move it down easily, but tight enough to stay in place fairly well. Mostly got it for my RUSFOR kit, but it'll probably see some use with my woodland and multicam kits as well. shoutout to /u/element074 for the idea.

Everything I used:

Steelmouth

sewing kit

hair bands

1/2" elastic band

Condor multi wrap

Really not hard at all with a compass cutter or something similar. I think on my old kit I actually used a legit drawing compas with a razor blade clamped into it or something. Just measure out the diameter/radius, pick your center and go. You can buy rings that snap in to make it look nice and give it strength: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/BDO6BK?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz4TO0a6m2QIVUbbACh2vqg0TEAQYASABEgLxqPD_BwE

For anyone else interested in adding this to their Formula rim:

(*note the screen is simply velcroed to the face of the rim so that it can be easily removed and replaced. You still have full access to the setup button and screen.)

Screen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAG12DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07916HTWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Velcro: https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Fasteners-Professional/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3SDOM935U6TXI&keywords=velcro+strips+with+adhesive+heavy+duty&qid=1567718060&s=automotive&sprefix=velcro%2Cautomotive%2C194&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFINFJRWkE0UjdQUTEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMjYwMzkxRlAyNVBEUDJTWU5YJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1MjA5NjIxRTZBMko5OEdLUVIwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

USB to TTL: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014Y1IMNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Coiled USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUK7IIQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Carbon Fiber Wrap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0154C6Q74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SimHub: https://www.simhubdash.com/

The Velcro has a sticky back that will glue to almost any surface. I just prepped the bag and the patches by cleaning them with alcohol. I didn't even have to stitch anything. It glues on very strong. I got it from my local hardware store. I'm sure you can find something similar online Like This

This is my list.
4x2" Industrial Velcro
Tri-Glide Slide
1.5" Wide One Wrap Velcro

Other people use a D-Ring instead but I prefer the look of the tri-glide slide instead. You need to make sure to use Industrial Velcro for the attachment of the DAS.

Here is what mine looks like

Try some 3M dual lock pads like they use on the back of the EZpass transponders and such. I use these on my cam and it's very easy to take off and put back up. https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-All-Weather-Fasteners-Inches-RFD7090/dp/B00347A8EO/

You could just buy your favorite one without perforations and buy something like this: amazon "wheel cutter perforation" and perhaps a metal ruler. With them you can make your own perforated pages.

This is the one I use, I'm pretty sure the minimum is less than an inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BK7NWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xxH5BbZKDXVFK

This is what I was talking about:

https://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524798079&sr=8-3&keywords=eyelet+kit

I feel like enough of those, along with some good paracord and a properly anchored hook, would do the job.

I would use double sided tape of some sort to make-shift put it back on, or a better option would be to purchase adhesive Velcro straps like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GFr7CbN78G7WD

Sure thing :) it can be found Here

I use the DAS that i had for the vive, ordered the 3d printed pieces to hook the pimax to it. Pimax face foam felt good but need the HMD around an inch or two more from my face. Used double sided velcro in between the face foam and HMD and it looks like it just might be enough.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000078CUB

While the naysayers are right and it's a bit unsafe I recommend strong velcro tape like this, in the case of a crash the battery pack would be ripped off, but under all other conditions that velcro will hold anything securely in place even at speed.

> 5). Don't wear anything with spikes.

im making a denim vest with the little square pyramid studs on it for the show right now lol

>10). They say keep your wristband on for the duration of the festival, but honestly if you leave it a little loose you can manage to get it on and off at the beginning and end of the day.

COUGHCOUGH

These might help: https://www.amazon.com/Lapel-Pin-Locking-Backs-Keepers/dp/B007IU94Z2

I've used them to secure my Nephew's Disney Pins while at Disneyland

Maybe try something like this Scotch(R) All-Weather Fasteners, 2 Sets of 1 Inch x 3 Inches, Strips, Clear (RFD7090) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00347A8EO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_QL7PCb0PW60YH

The patch is iron-on so I attached some of this Velcro with its adhesive and it has worked great.

Unless you're going to be doing a lot of them, I'm going to just recommend something like these

https://smile.amazon.com/Lapel-Pin-Locking-Backs-Keepers/dp/B007IU94Z2/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0&ie=UTF8

I haven't personally used these, but I've heard of them, and they seemed to get a good score.

Leather I use

Import Vegetable Tan Cowhide... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M27PBG9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sewing pony (I highly recommend ha)
360° Rotation Wood Leather Craft... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CBPF6B2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Snaps
Hotop 100 Set Snap Fasteners... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078Z9L2HP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glue
Tandy Leather Eco-Flo Leather... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CD8ZC2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Tool set
Leather Sewing Tools SIMPZIA 24... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDMB7H5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Plus...I use a drill press for the holes

>since I'm short all of them were too long.

it doesnt take much to hem them. you can even get iron-fused tape and just go at it with an iron. its not a permanent fix, but at least you can wear it and decide if you want to properly get it hemmed, or donate it.

>more suited for a girl in her early 20s instead of her late 20s.

Do you like it? then its suited for you. imho. .

If you want the 'I dont want to see any hanging wires look', you might get good results if you mount the power strip beneath your desk. Since it seems rather large it may be heavy. You can either screw it into your desk or you could try heavy duty Velcro Strips. There are also under desk trays and baskets you can use to just hold everything.

If you dont mind some wires showing, you can try sleeves for the cables and use a cable box for the power strip.

What shape of hole? I typically just cut through it with my knife like any other cut and pop it out like a token, but for circles that probably isn't doable.

I'd try something like this, but I've never used one myself.

I found some really soft double sided Velcro from the craft store and it works really well with the sport sheet harness and my medium Nova as well as Peirce.

Edit: I believe it's this Velcro https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000078CUB/

Yeah, you gotta get the locking pin backs.

Something like this: Lapel Pin - Locking Pin Backs (Pin Keepers) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IU94Z2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O7IACb6VT39BZ

After googling your keywords this looks different but similar. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y0dCCbX1PNN5B
So a smaller version for smaller gromets?
When you squeeze the handle only the little bump touches the other side. Like it would make a dent in a piece of paper

A pillow, because I can never have enough pillows

Lorises are adorable. I think that's a fact.

or you could save $40

https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-9911-Compass-Circle-Cutter/dp/B000BK7NWC/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543186319&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=thunderline+circle+cutter

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-All-Weather-Fasteners-Inches-RFD7090/dp/B00347A8EO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1419056661&sr=8-7&keywords=3m+dual+lock

Sticks to glass, and pretty much anything else. Removes without any residue.

These boxes from Amazon come with 100 plastic bobbins and a set of DMC stickers.

I used to have have half my floss stored in a sewing box sorted by color family until that became to full more to house any more, and the other half was collected in a big black hole of plastic grocery bag. I can’t express enough how good this organization feels!

I bought my Velcro on amazon but I went to Home Depot for a D ring and found the same Velcro there as well

Actually, the series I was thinking of was Pattern Magic. But they all look good.

You can get them at the parks, or if you want to get some beforehand they have them on Amazon. Here are some: http://www.amazon.com/Lapel-Pin-Locking-Backs-Keepers/dp/B007IU94Z2

They also sell the official Disney ones on Amazon, although they are more expensive.

The long wait for the VRCover drove me to find an alternative so I took a gamble on some Vive face cushions. There are probably better alternatives but here is what I did:

​

Bought this

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCHYD6T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010HADEA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I cut the velcro strips into little rectangles and put them on the glasses spacer, then I simply attached the face cushion to spacer. It doesn't fit perfectly, you gotta work it into the correct shape. However I actually dig the foam padding, it's more comfortable than the stock foam and doesn't absorb sweat which I really like. It's not a high quality product though, there is some tearing at the seams but it doesn't seem to be getting any larger. Also depending on how you get the cushion to fit there could be a little leakage on the sides, not much though. I don't know notice it at all while playing. No idea if that makes the Quest vulnerable to sun damage so be careful and don't blame me if you damage your Quest. Lastly, the foam makes wearing certain glasses uncomfortable, I use some thin harry potter style glasses for VR though and they work just fine. Obviously not a perfect solution but it works well for me.

​

Edit: Just noticing there are Vive Pro cushions (I hadn't noticed before). Those might work out better for glasses. Can't say for sure.

Yes, REI does as well. The common name for them is cord locks.

Plastic Cord Locks End Spring Stop Toggle Stoppers Multi-colour (10PCS, Black)

It's a cord lock for something like a drawstring.

Like this

Have you considered perforating the pages yourself with something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GLP39A

I got the entire organizer for $12 on amazon. They're called 'floss bobbins' i think and can be purchased by themselves if you want!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M15BBX5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dtiVCbQDQMPYY

http://www.amazon.com/KYDEX-Sheet-0-028-Thick-Black/dp/B00KDMLJ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451183913&sr=8-1&keywords=Kydex

http://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1451183913&sr=8-10&keywords=Kydex

I used things like these, my oven, and a YouTube tutorial. Kydex, when heated is very pliable, and cools solid. If you mess up, you can heat and remold again. You only need .06 thickness, any thicker is left to gun holsters. I then use an old belt to help mold a g-clip from a Kydex strip, and thats really it. I haven't bought a sheath in many years. Any further questions, just reply, I'll check back in the morning.

You can buy iron-on hemming tape for situations like this, by the way. Just stick it on the tag and iron it down. It takes a little longer than cutting the tag off, but it helps you avoid sharp-edged tags and lets you continue to read the washing recommendations.

Measure and draw would work too! Actually that's what I did for the roundels -- found comparable sized circle shapes around the bench (bottle cap, pencil eraser, etc) and used them to trace circles onto the tape to cut out the roundel stencils. Figured out later that a compass cutter probably would have saved a lot of time and been more precise.

Disclaimer: I have used this method to keep combat boots tied and tight for the last 12 years of a military career, this is a tip for anyone that wants to make their life significantly easier during airsoft while running around in combat boots.

Step 1: Grab a set of Cord locks from anywhere (ebay, amazon, random gear)

I like using these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FH9DYU6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Step 2: Take the laces and feed them through the clip and tie a knot on the end of each lace

Step 3: Put foot in boot, tighten cord locks down to comfortable point of boots

Step 4: Wrap the laces around the back of the boot and around the cord lock

Step 5: Make the laces taut and tuck the ends or what’s left over into the boots

Step 6: Enjoy a day of running around without worrying about your boots coming undone

Side note: Sometimes the laces will get a little slack in them but your boots will remain tight on your feet, when they get slack, just make them taut again and tuck back into boot

Edit: damn auto correct!

Looks like some of THIS cut to length + some of THIS = What the guy in your picture is wearing.

There are 42 reviews on this one and it’s the highest rated on amazon. Do you think this is a good stand?

GONCHAROFF EMBROIDERY FRAME DIANA FOR USE ON TABLE OR COUCH; MADE FROM ORGANIC BEECH, COMPLETE WITH TAPESTRY FRAME; 12X15,5 INCHES (30X40CM) - HANDS-FREE WITH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CMFSGU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lY.CDbHZX6E5Q

Found them on amazon.

Embroidery Floss Organizer Box - 17 Compartments with 100 Hard Plastic Floss Bobbins and 640 Floss Number Stickers. (Full Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M15BBX5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CYmSDb5ZBS854

I wear the pace rival crops and I love them, mine don’t slip but I did buy a size down. In the past before I sized down, I used those plastic spring cord lock things on the drawstring instead of tying it in a knot. I get the flat ones and they don’t bother me at all during the workout. You can find them on amazon or probably in a craft store.

ETA: link for what I’m talking about https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FH9DYU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xZYyCbBD1SP75

I use a couple of these for tightening the string, I don't have to mess with the rods.

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Spring-Toggle-Stoppers-Multi-colour/dp/B01FH9DYU6

I would say they are worth it, lost my Taylor Swift pin with a normal back. You can also get some with a screw.

Buy this, only use the hook side, and cut to fit.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Superior/dp/B0010HADEA/

Check ebay and amazon. This should have everything you need.

P.S The spool things are called bobbins and you can get them in plastic and cardboard form, I personally use cardboard but it doesn't matter that much.

If the bottom of the box is flush and your on hardwood, this is what we use for a very similar problem.

VELCRO Brand - Industrial Strength - 2" x 4" Strips, 4 Sets - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1cPazb0WVBM40

I’m using Velcro, that way, I can adjust or remove the camera whenever I need to.

Make a circle with this first?

http://www.amazon.com/Olfa-194B-OLFA-perforation-cutter/dp/B001GLP39A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463807981&sr=8-1&keywords=perforator

I don't think you're going to find one with a hook. However, you can get some grommet pliers (get the right size!) to go with grommets with hooks that, maybe, you can find somewhere (2 minutes of looking and I haven't found any, and now I surrender the search to you).....

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-90209-Industrial-Strength/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1524920570&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=velcro+tape&dpPl=1&dpID=41moZkWVLnL&ref=plSrch

If you decide to go with velcro, use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-All-Weather-Fasteners-Inches-RFD7090/dp/B00347A8EO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1301578466&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/Approx-Adhestive-Strips-Sticky-Fastener/dp/B01AI28QFU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1492984017&sr=8-12&keywords=velcro

I used this to fix some stuff to my military backpack

Could use some Velcro strips: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i9ECCb6PQFGB3

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000078CUB

Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi

You're looking for grommets fam

https://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1488062427&sr=8-4&keywords=grommets

You could try some of that Iron on hemming material to close the hole up.

What kind of altering? If it's just hemming, maybe you could use this stuff to get by in the meantime? http://www.amazon.com/IKEA-IRON-ON-HEMMING-TAPE/dp/B005O9WU9Q

here ya go.

https://www.amazon.com/Lapel-Pin-Locking-Backs-Keepers/dp/B007IU94Z2

I use my laces with the little lace lock clamps. The elastics tend to get too tight for me

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Spring-Toggle-Stoppers-Multi-colour/dp/B01FH9DYU6/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=Q6QMFAWYV1HY&keywords=lace+locks+for+shoes&qid=1556483771&s=gateway&sprefix=lace+lo&sr=8-6

I have those.

[I got these to keep them together] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0010HADEA/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I buy unperforated and perforate them myself.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GLP39A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1466223469&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=perforator&dpPl=1&dpID=313G3JXy7RL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CMFSGU6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

It’s currently out of stock but I would grab one when it’s available again!

Here are a few things I just bought for our my board:

Scotch(R) All-Weather Fasteners, 2 Sets of 1 Inch x 3 Inches, Strips
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00347A8EO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Portable External Battery Charger Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QRW8R8M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Goal Zero 14101 Luna USB LED Stick Light
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045XRK06?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Fender Mini Electric Guitar Stand
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DV7U2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Should I get a poly board and a rubber mat?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L5I8RTW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_5&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UVBK0UI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ILHWAM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_11&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I have a simpler version of this, down to the visible brand markings. I bought it on amazon.com. Here's the link. I thought Etsy was for handmade goods, not wholesale.

This is the tool I use, although it was only $9 when I bought it a couple years ago. It's a fine product, but idk if I'd spend more than $10 for it again. There are similar products on amazon.

It works well. When utilized with a straight edge, it produces a very professional perforation. I can perforate an entire Midori brand refill in ~4 passes w/ moderate to heavy pressure. It's another step in preping my Midori, but I would not call it tedious or troublesome at all.

The only drawback I've experienced is that it may work too well, in that if I keep a perforated page in the notebook and turn past it, the page folds at the perforation line and not at the natural fold of the refill. I used to worry that this would eventually result in one of these pages unintentionally falling out, but nowadays I leave a small section of the pages' top and bottom unperforated to ensure they stay in. It hasn't really been a problem, and I imagine that if you use a tool with wider spaced cutting sections, it would be different.

This is the piece you probably need less. Buy only this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0749JN5G7/

and some strips of double sided Velcro to make it thicker if needed.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000078CUB/

​

use the 18mm as front cover (and a cut of 6mm for the nose)

Photoshop template, printed on normal paper and cut out with a circle cutter.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4if60dn5an23tlk/Jar%20Labels.psd?dl=0

Circle cutter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BK7NWC

It's this one but it isn't currently available through Amazon 😿


They do have a slightly different one available, it just has less mobility.

I wouldn't get these. Grab a continuous roll of double sided velcro instead. Cut it to the exact length you need and there's no excess to wrap up. Also more durable.

You might be able to find it cheaper in a store.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000078CUB

I use https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000078CUB for cable management and something like https://www.amazon.com/PERFECT-VISION-MOUNTING-SATELLITE-CT7BLK-MH/dp/B00XUYJZBI depending on the location.

I used to zip tie all the things, but hated having to cut a bunch just to add or remove a cable.