Reddit mentions: The best shelf brackets & supports

Are you in the US? For some reason, I cant find that coutertop on the Ikea US site but it is on the GB site.

If you can buy another piece of it, and it's finished on the bottom too, and have access to (or a friend with) a table saw, then I like /u/MrSnowden's plan. Some shelf brackets like this would match the existing style pretty well.

I think on the wall the whole width of the desk would look good, as long as the pieces are like <12" deep. 8" might be perfect; do you need to store/display anything in particular on the shelves?

So what I've done for my 121x80cm (3000pc) puzzle is the following (much like u/Excipa):

1. Flip the puzzle over (time consuming but necessary) I use two pieces of something like foamboard, as rigid as possible, put a small square of the puzzle on one, then sandwich on top and flip it. Put it all together upside down.
   
   
2. Lay down contact paper on the back and roll it out (the stickier paper the better, the puzzle-specific stuff is probably extra sticky), if you get air bubbles that you can get rid of, pierce or slit the paper and roll the bubble down. Trim excess.
   
   
3. Find a stuff backboard, I used corrugated plastic. Cur to size, I used gorilla tape to join pieces. Use a spray glue or double sided tape(lots) to join the back of the contact paper to the sized backing sheet.
   
   
4. Then I cut a frame out of something like this and stained it. (You could get an actual picture framing board) Then used edge protectors to secure the frame pieces together.
   
   
5. I got a piece of acrylic glass to protect the puzzle's front, which is much less expensive, less heavy, and less breakable, than a custom piece of real glass. Not to mention easier to cut to size on my own.
   
   
6. I used gorilla tape to attach the frame and backing board together (probably better ways to do this using actual picture frame hardware). And I used a couple of the big 16lb command strips on the back of the backing board to hang it on the wall.

You need a curtain rod with long stanchions

See my little doodle for reference

Essentially, you find the longest curtain rod stanchion you can find and mount them directly over the window sills, instead of on either side like you would normally

Amazon Link to example of 6" stanchion

This gets the curtain in front of the pipe, but not covering the pipe or near it to cause a heat issue.

You could also drop the curtain down from the ceiling in the same manner...but finding a curtain stanchion sized perfectly for your needs might be difficult. In that instance, you might be best served getting galvanized pipe and fittings and attaching it through the ceiling drywall using toggle bolts. Something like this

Then just get a nice glossy spray paint and paint the pipe whatever color you want

But regardless, the curtain will either have to be inside the sill like a shower curtain (I'd go with 2" window blinds instead cus it will look better than an interior curtain) or...you bring the curtain out in front of the pipe. The downside to that being you will have light spill on the ends. But if you are just doing sheer curtains or semi sheer, it will still have the same effect

12' of 1x12 pine is around $20. You'll probably want brackets every 16-32" so for 12' of shelving you'll need 5-9 brackets.

Brackets prices all over, but plain ones are super cheap.

• https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Hardware-96111-Shelf-Brackets/dp/B009PXR628/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505077794&sr=8-3&keywords=shelf+brackets+12+inch
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Decko-49143-Bracket-10-5-Inch-7-5-Inch/dp/B017LJSDSS/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1505077794&sr=8-14&keywords=shelf+brackets+12+inch
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LJSDVU/ref=psdc_9628891011_t4_B009PXR628
  
  My current bed was chopped from a bunk bed and can fit fullsized totes underneath it, it's great.
  
  Bonus is that you can paint the shelves to be whatever color to match walls/color scheme or just leave them.
  
  

Floating shelves would be a challenge for records. They cannot support a lot of weight due to their design. So in order to get a full shelf (say 4 ft long), you'd need some sturdy floating shelf support AND make sure to have them attached to the studs.

If you look at those (https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Steel-Heavy-Floating-Bracket/dp/B01FL4551S), the rating is 150 lbs, but that's for 6" shelves. With records that are 12", I'd say that the rating is divided by 2. Assuming that a record is 0.5 lbs, that means that a shelf like that can only support about 120 records. But at 24" long, you can't really put more than 100 records anyway.

Adding the cost of the shelf (assuming $10). It would cost $50 per 100 records.

Unless you are ready to spend a fair amount of money, Kallax are still the best choice around.

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[Logitech G920] (https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Dual-Motor-Feedback-Driving-Responsive/dp/B016LI8SCG?th=1) - Best setup I could find for under $500+. I really like it. Solid quality, holds up to (ab)use well.

Rubber Pads - I put these on the wheel and shifter to help hold it to the desk better. I was dealing with sliding without them. I use the flat ones on the underside of the mounts, which press against the top of my desk.

[Half Keyboard] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6NTPWH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - Gives some extra buttons close to your wheel since you'll lose out on some hotkeys.

[Desk Brackets] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYL14WV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - I mounted these to studs in my wall, and on the underside of my desk. I keep my screens wall mounted, and my PC on a platform under my desk. These keep the desk super stable.

edit: Added a piece of equipment.

You're right that having the 2x4s rest on the floor will help with the weight, but the remaining weight will still want to pull away from the wall. Regardless, I think that 3 appropriately sized anchors per stud into the wall will be enough. You won't need an anchor at all near the bottom, so I'd keep them nearer the top, maybe one above each shelf or two.

The bigger problem you'll have with that design, I think, is properly supporting the shelves with wooden shelf supports. This is especially true if you're fastening the 2x4s flat against the wall, since you'll now be fastening the shelf supports to the 1.5" side. Instead of making wooden shelf supports, I'd strongly suggest just using some sort of metal 90-degree shelf bracket.

I was going to suggest a triangular bracket too, but your idea to use a half-junction to make it removable is extra clever. You could actually do it again: split the lower section since you're already planning on bolting it in place. That would mean that removal doesn't require sliding it off the bottom, just removing bolts.

I think a triangular bracket like this is the best you can do without adding extra supports^() or stronger materials. It'll reduce the stress on the top horizontal pipe as much as moving the posts inwards by that much. It'll also remove some stress from the top corner connector.

You could also accomplish the same thing with an angle bracket, like used for shelving (example). Being metal doesn't really help any but it'd be hard to find one that reaches as far as you could get with PVC.

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^() I assume an extra strut in the middle would be super awkward. You could also tie it to the ceiling with string. That's very simple but whoever owns the ceiling might not appreciate it.

You wont be able to buy them as completed shelves. The adjustable shelf supports are a two part system. The part you have which is similar to this and then there are clips that look like this this which fit into the small gaps in the vertical strips that you have. That two part system is the support system for the shelf that you make yourself typically out of plywood to fit the span between the clips. There are things that can be done to make the plywood look better but that's the gist of it.

I'm sure the next question is will the clips that I linked fit in your existing tracks. Unfortunately I can't comment on how interchangable those are. You could look on the manufacturers site to see if they post any dimensions that you could compare yours to. Otherwise on Amazon you could post a question to see if someone will measure one of theirs. The last time I asked for a really specific dimension on there for some cables I got a lot of half assed answers for different dimensions that I didn't ask for. You might have better luck.

I've seen a few of these built, so I wanted to give them a try. Flew some sorties tonight and pretty happy with them so far. Really nice to have something which can be removed easily when I'm done.

3" Drill Press Vice

Steel brackets

Extreme Velcro

I found this extreme velcro on a whim and it's awesome. It adheres to anything and locks your stick/throttle down tight, yet can still be removed when you are done. I used it to attach my IR clip to the headphones, and it's great there also.

Boards are simply a cheap bamboo cutting board I got at Walmart and sawed in two. Add the bolts and screws and I'd say this whole thing was less than $50.

Maybe be aware the brackets are on the small side, so if you want something that will hang lower, you'll want to look at something different.

Edit: just wanted to say....you'll need to wipe down the vices when you get them. They are covered with a light oil to prevent rusting I'd guess. Take a rag and give them quick wipe all over (the jaws too, they will leave a mark on your desk!)

Thanks so much.

I grabbed these heavy duty brackets. They have a release lever, but that might be necessary for this size/weight.

Sounds like I'll have to be very precise or they will not fold correctly, and also be wary of mounting the surface flush with the wall. I'm also researching as much as possible about shear weight and pull weight for screws and studs... I wish I knew what kind of wood my studs were and what thickness my drywall is.

It sounds like 2.5" size 8 screws put perfectly straight into the wall. I'm reevaluating the table surface though. If it's hanging from the mount vertically part of the time, I don't want the screws in the surface to slowly tear through the wood...

I agree with the others. It's completely possible to not do it, but this is a long table top that needs support in the middle. Consider some standard shelf wall mount brackets to support the middle of the table if that's any better for you. Even with something like this screwed to the wall and to the desk, I wouldn't stand on it.

i’ll be honest with you, i don’t even have a bookshelf so i can’t answer that question with 100% confidence. i would assume just looking up shelf bracket, something like this would probably work

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47615-NYL-Push-Lock-Structured-Centers/dp/B0018DOBG2/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HAKJKZK4EC0XSH0KE18M

It uses those little black stand off things. You insert it into the hole and then push down on the top and it locks down. If you by Leviton switches/patch panels, they usually come included with it (look at the Leviton switch I linked above, it's attached to the four ends of the switch). And for mounting gear in it that's not made by Leviton, they have special brackets that just hold a device in place and mount using Velcro straps. But save money and just mount it yourself using double sided tape/velcro straps etc...

Here is their universal bracket to mount non-leviton hardware:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47612-UBK-Universal-Bracket-Structured/dp/B0018DKWGA/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YRPJ81ADVX50J2PK7EAD

Here's another:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47612-DBK-Plastic-Bracket-White/dp/B0007SN5E8/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=66BAHF93TW6PX8GR97RV

I would have done something with a shelf brace and some command strips. If you placed 2-3 strips on the side on the wall and then you could use zip ties to strap it to the brace. Or just drill in there wall and patch it up, I've put tons of holes with out thinking in my apt knowing I can path them when I move.

Amarine-made Pair Stainless Steel Solid Shelf Brackets ,8" ,10" ,12" , Shelf Support Corner Brace Joint Right Angle Bracket (12"X6-1/2") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017GS6GUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tMUExbE01DPNX

Command Large Picture-Hanging Strips, Black, 4-Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00404YO1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eOUExb9GBHEW5

Also to clean it up a bit:
Wiremold CMK50 Cord Mate II Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CSUExbRZ17VST

As mentioned, Cofer and Randall Brothers will usually have higher grades in stock. You are going to be hard pressed to find untreated pine 4x4s. Cedar is pretty readily available though.

Although, unless you are trying to build some heirloom workbench to pass down to your kids, or need something to rebuild transmission on, I don't really see the point. Fancy dimensional pine isn't really the thing you want to spend time and money sourcing to build something you'll just hit with a hammer and drip paint on. It's got better engineering values and maybe no grade stampings, but you aren't making roof trusses or millwork here. If this is a basic basement homeowner workbench, just buy something like this Simpson kit and lumber from HD and you'll have a hard time breaking it.

https://www.amazon.com/Simpson-WBSK-Workbench-Shelving-Hardware/dp/B00K774V2Y

Ah, understandable. I guess it depends on how odd it'd look to have a deep shelf like that. Maybe a shelf that extends all the way across with some brackets similar to these?

Hard to say with knowing exactly what it looks like, haha.

these are really close, but they have that extra support piece, and these shelves fit fairly tight, and i have no idea about sizing.

Buy some l brackets like these https://www.amazon.com/MHMYDZ-Bracket-125mmX75mm-Decorative-Brackets/dp/B0768SH78H/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540497208&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=l+brackets&dpPl=1&dpID=416s-7MkALL&ref=plSrch and bend them into a V to fit your deck

I recently installed a shelf for my succulents and I would think it would work well for keyboards

I used these L brackets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0768SH78H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

and Lowe’s/Home Depot have shelves for like 7-15 bucks depending the size .

If you mount the light under the shelf, will there be anything on top of the shelf? I ask because the light fixture will probably need room to vent any heat so you wouldn’t want it flush on the shelf if the top of the shelf it’s mounted to is covered up. Some options would be to put the plants on the top shelf, then use some shelf brackets with drywall anchors or screwed into studs. Then the light could be secured to the shelving brackets and be suspended above the shelving rack. Something like this (but you can find cheaper at Walmart or Home Depot) brackets

The modem and router are held in by one of these:

Leviton 47612-UBK Universal Shelf

These have a standoff/negative space behind them so thats where all the power wires for everything are coiled up. Once you have one of these, you can get some 3/4"x1/16" aluminum bar from Lowes/HD and cut it to length and transfer the spacing for the pushpin holes to it from one of the Leviton shelfs. Drill those out and put some of these in there:

Leviton Push-Lock Pins

I painted mine with white appliance enamel. You can put those wherever you need them and use some velcro cable wraps around both sides of them to secure the devices to the enclosure.

It looks like Leviton actually makes a version of these now:

Leviton Universal Bracket

...but for $23/pr you can do better/stronger if you go the thin aluminum bar route and make about 6/8 of them for about $10, including the Leviton push lock pins.

I would understand that price for full blown rack equipment

...but...

I just want something like https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47612-DBK-Plastic-Bracket-White/dp/B0007SN5E8

Looks like one of these Leviton data brackets:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007SN5E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Dp9uzbMH02Y62

Not everything fits the hole pattern so I used this shelf for mine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018DKWGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_br9uzbN65X3N1

This set and about $75 worth of lumber from the Home Depot did it for me!

Simpson sells a "workbench kit", that contains 8 "rigid tie connectors" + screws + a little manual that describes how to build pretty much what that site has on it. You have to buy the wood separately. I priced the kit out on a few sites compared with buying the connectors individually and it worked out a bit cheaper in most cases.

This is the Simpson kit i used, i used two kits... one for the longer bench and another for the saw stand... http://www.amazon.ca/Simpson-WBSK-Workbench-Shelving-Hardware/dp/B00K774V2Y