Introduction/Acquisition:

I started my GYW journey w/Wolverine 1K’s and after multiple Red Wings, Danners, and Trumans, I got bit by the Alden bug with my Brown CXL Indy chukkas. I decided to sell off some boots and trim down my rotation a bit more to help scratch that Alden itch. I had a few boots in mind to complement the brown CXL chukkas:

• Dark brown wingtip or tanker boot - pretty set on the B+M Tobacco Reverse Chamois Wingtip
  
• Natural or tan smooth or scotch/alpine grain wingtip or tanker boot (whichever model I didn’t get in the dark brown color)
  
• Snuff suede plain/perforated cap toe or wingtip - this could come later as my Red Wing Hawthorne Muleskinner Blacksmiths sort of filled this color need for now, although admittedly a much more rugged boot.
  
  As Alden yearly price increases are now pushing boots upwards of $600+, I’ve been keeping a close eye on the second hand/used market, since most of the boots above aren’t readily available in my size or are on a 4-6 month preorder wait.
  
  Now I already have Indys so I wanted to avoid getting another Indy model and was actually looking at Alden of Madison’s Choco Suede Tanker which they did have in my size ready to ship. But at $634, I just couldn’t pull the trigger without waiting to see if something would pop up on the B/S/T, eBay, or StyleForum.
  
  To my luck, a pair of the LeatherSoul x Alden Choco Suede Ultimate Indys popped up on eBay in my 10.5D TruBalance size, unworn and new in box. I shot an offer and seller accepted and just received them today.
  
  
  Details:
  
  Maker: Alden
  Model: Indy
  Last: Trubalance
  Leather: "Chocolate" (but probably actually Humus) Brown Suede
  Sole: Commando
  Size: 10.5D
  
  
  Sizing & Fit:
  
  Since my last Alden purchase, I’ve done a bit more reading and first-hand sizing. It appears my feet aren’t as wide as I thought and my Bannock measures 10.5D on my left and right smack dab in the middle of a 10.5/11 D/E width. I’ve mentioned it in my other posts and I’ve posted on the Manufacturer Last Sizing Thread, but a 10.5D Barrie fits me the best while a 10.5D TruBalance is a touch roomier, but not unbearable. These fit a bit better than my Indy chukkas, most likely due to be a full height boot, giving me some more eyelets to lace + tighten up and gives me the flexibility to wear thin to heavy weight socks, though dress socks might be too thin. The suede is also pretty forgiving, though I’m sure a 10D would likely be too snug for my foot.
  
  
  Construction:
  
  
  No complaints. The 360 degree storm welt is clean and the stitching all looks solid. Love the nap of the suede and the slight variation in color based on how the nap is sitting. My chukkas have the Alden commando sole as well and it is quickly becoming my favorite in terms of comfort, grip, and appearances. Much more comfortable than the Dainite my CXL Trumans were on, the full commando my waxed flesh Trumans were on, and the nitrile soles on my Red Wings. Clean and subtle enough to not feel too rugged either for year-round wear.
  
  The chocolate suede has so many different color representations in photos, I was a little worried at what they’d look like in person. Some seemed REALLY deep and rich chocolate, while some bordered on gray. The pictures from the eBay listing made them look almost like tobacco reverse chamois and even shades of snuff that I had seen. I’d say in person, my pair falls right in-between the dark rich brown and the gray, and LeatherSoul’s pictures aren’t TOO far off the actual color in my opinion.
  
  Conclusion:
  
  With these in rotation, these will likely check off my first bullet in my list above, although if someone offered me a trade straight up for the reverse chamois wingtips or an alpine grain tanker, I’d probably oblige (wink, wink). As I’ve handled more Aldens (especially the sleeker lasts), I can’t unsee the more roundedness of the TruBalance last. That said, no matter what, the dark brown boots were going to be most rugged/casual boot in my (future) rotation, so no real complaints. I know I should just start wearing them right away, but I’m about to order some Saphir Suede Renovateur and the Saphir Invulner Waterproofing Spray or Tarrago Nano Spray (Can anyone comment on the differences between the Saphir Invulner vs the Tarrago Nano Spray?) to protect from the Seattle wet weather.

I used to work in a work boot store, so let me give you some tips on boot care.

• I would highly recommend changing out whatever laces your boots come with to leather laces. Leather laces last longer and can be cut to length.
  
  
• If you kneel a lot and the toes of your boots are rubbing on the ground, I'd get Boot Saver Toe Guards. They'll extend the life of your boots a bit further.
  
  
• At the end of the day, wipe whatever is on your boots off. It doesn't have to sparkle, just get the majority of the gunk off.
  
  
• Anywhere from once a week to once every two weeks, wax or oil your boots. I recommend Obenauf's, but any leather wax/oil will do. Huberd's Shoe Grease is a good alternative if you're looking for something cheaper.
  
  
• Alternate between two pairs of boots. Two $100 pairs of boots will (usually) last longer than one $200 pair of boots.
  
  If there was one boot that fit all of your criteria, that company would be the only boot maker in the world. If you're looking for a boot that will work year round, I'd get something with GoreTex for waterproofing and then wear thick wool socks in the winter. Also, get something with a Vibram sole. Those tend to last the longest in my experience. My recommendations are as follows:
  
  
• Danner Vicious 4.5" Plain Toe is a good general purpose boot. It does have a GoreTex liner, a Vibram sole, and tends to be pretty comfortable. If you have wide feet, this does tend to run wider through the ball of the foot. Cons, it has a glued on sole(usually doesn't last as long as stitch-down soles) and a composite shank(doesn't offer as much support as a steel shank). I personally prefer shorter boots, but if you'd like more ankle support, it does come in an 8" version.
  
  
• Georgia's 8" Loggers are styled more like traditional boots. They're great for arch and ankle support if that's more your speed. It does have a non-GoreTex waterproof liner, but Georgia usually does pretty well in that department. Cons, its pretty heavy. Not terribly heavy, but worth mentioning.
  
  Of course, every foot is different, so definitely find a local boot store and try a few options on.

Oh man, I love when people ask stuff like this on Reddit. I bootblack, and have worked on countless leather boots! Frye boots are lovely.

First off, what kind finish do your Melissa Buttons have, or did they have when you got them? For instance, looking at the current line, Antiqued/Polished can take polish, Rugged should not be polished, and Suede will have an entirely different cleaning/care routine from the other two. I'll assume it's closer to the first two for the following.

For any leather that's not suede or nubuck, the first step is cleaning. You can pick up some saddle soap (Kiwi exists in your local drug store or grocery store and is totally fine) or use just about any mild soap - I regularly use diluted Dr. Bronners. You want to create a lather and scrub that into the leather, and then wipe the boot down with a damp, not wet, rag. Be sure to get all the suds off the boot, but don't soak it either. If it's really dirty, feel free to repeat this step!

Then, I would choose a conditioner. I'd actually stay away from an animal-based oil like neatsfoot oil or mink oil, as well as less-stable oils like olive oil, since those could go rancid with too much humidity. I'm a big fan of Obenauf's, which gives good deep conditioning with just a bit of product (seriously, a little goes a long way) and has a pretty neutral scent. Frye actually sells a conditioning cream of their own, which I imagine would also be fine. Pretty much anything with a beeswax base is also good. Apply with your fingers so you can really rub it into the leather - the heat from your hands will help work it in.

Finally, if your boot is the sort that would look better with some shine, I would wait a day or two to let the conditioner soak in and then apply a bit of cream polish - this will give your boots some shine, but it won't be like, patent-leather mirror shiny, which I feel would be the wrong style for Frye boots. Kiwi also sells these, but Meltonian is my go-to. With cream polish, you apply a light coat and then buff the boot with a shoe brush in light, fast strokes. You can use your fingers to apply the polish, but it'll dye your fingertips, so either wear gloves or use a rag or a polish brush. Buff the boot until it's shiny to your liking!

Don't worry too much, it's pretty hard to ruin a good pair of boots while taking care of them. They'll definitely be happier with a bit of TLC!

At minimum, I would suggest four things: Horsehair brush (as mentioned below), a conditioner, a dauber (to apply the shining agent), and a shining agent (if you want them to shine/polish).

My recommendations on products that I've personally used (which I've used a number of things, but found these to be had at a good price/quality ratio):

1. Kiwi Horsehair brush. I have two of these, one for work and one for home. Love them both.
   
   
2. Lexol leather conditioner. Amazing stuff, I use it on belts, wallets, car seats, and definitely boots and shoes. I bought a liter, but I'm guessing the 8oz bottle will last several years. Strong recommendation for this product.
   
   
3. FootFitter dauber. I didn't use a dauber for a long time but in my opinion, it's much easier to get a consistent coating with a dauber vs an old shirt. Definitely optional on this one.
   
   
4. Saphir neutral wax. Saphir is a company highly touted on /r/GoodyearWelt and many other shoe forums/communities. I have never come across a straight out bad review of anything they make, but have only used their waxes. Much bigger fan of their wax over Kiwi and other generic waxes. It smells great, shines great, and is quite forgiving. I suggest Neutral for all colors except black, in which case I recommend black. Strong recommendation.

Ya gotta be a TOUGH MANLY MAN to make it through NorthEast winters.....

Just kidding, man. It's a great question, actually. This is my experience...

You're going to need wool socks to keep your feet warm. I personally like Darn Tough socks and some from a label called Mountain View I got at Ocean State Job Lot for $4.00 (70% merino). You don't have to spend a ton of money to get wool socks. TJ Maxx and Marshalls have slightly irregulars on sale quite often around here. Not sure about California, tho. Avoid cotton socks. Run far, far away from acrylic socks. Look for socks that are mostly (>50%) wool. Nylon will give them some durability.

You're also going to need to learn how to take care of your boots! Maybe you do this already, but if not...

The simplest thing to do is wipe them off with a clean towel after you get back indoors.

You're also going to have to treat your leather boots with some kind of dressing. Frequency varies, but at least once a year. Once a month is probably overkill. So find something in-between that works for you.

This is strictly in my opinion and experience, but the two best products I've found for this are Obenauf's Leather Protector and Huberd's Shoe Grease. WARNING: Obenauf's WILL darken the leather. That's no big deal to me but for some people it's a non-starter. Huberd's doesn't seem to darken leather, but YMMV.

Lastly, Bick #4 does a real nice job of conditioning and cleaning leather shoes/boots. I only use this when I think my shoes/boots are looking a little grubby. Bick #4 does NOT darken leather at all.

I hope you get a chance to "enjoy" a "real winter" sometime soon. One of the most fun experiences I've ever had was hanging out with a buddy from India who had never experienced snow before. He thought it was glorious. It made me take a new look at it, and winter CAN be glorious if you want it to be.

That's a great find! The lack of heel might be odd if you aren't use to it, so watch for arch pain. As for the shoes, check the heel stitching and make sure it isn't loose, and that the sole is in good condition without uneven wear. A cobbler can easily fix those things. Also, check that the tongue and vamp seam isn't stretched or torn. Also, switch out the laces a thiner braid, waxed ones if you can - something slick to match the shoe.

As for care, definitely check out the "Put This On" episode that Thamonsoon recommended. Your initial clean will be cleaning the dust off with a damp cloth, get in the seams - try a toothbrush. Then wait for them to dry and give a good brushing. For continual maintenance, I'll copy my shoe care suggestions I made from another post here:

"I made another post about boat shoe care, so in that style I'll give you the basics of caring for your new shoes.

You will need a soft cloth, any jersey cotton will work, or you can buy a shoe rag, a stiff brush, cedar shoe trees and some shoe polish. This will cost you about $30 USD and last a while.

• After a day of wear: Brush any mud or debris off of them, don't forget the soles, and give them a quick wipe with a damp cloth. Put in the shoe trees so that they fit snugly, but not too tight.
  
  
• Every 1 to 2 weeks, depending on usage: Polish your shoes. To do this, start by removing the laces and cleaning the shoe of any dust or debris, if you use a damp cloth, wait for the shoes to dry before continuing. Then, take your polish brush, collect some polish from the tin on the bristles and brush your shoes until you can see a thin layer of polish on them. Once you've covered all the sides and seams, let them stand for 15 minutes or so for the polish to set.
  After they've set, buff you shoes vigorously with your polish brush until they have a lustre and you can no longer see the matte texture of polish. If you wish to "shine" your shoes, give them that reflective lustre, take your polish rag and give you shoes a once over with polish. Just enough so you can see you've covered the shoe. Then add a few drops of water to an area of the shoe an buff with the polish cloth to a mirror shine. Continue until the all the polish is buffed, adding water drops as necessary. That's all.
  
  
• When they've become considerably soiled: Make sure the shoes are dry, then clean off any dirt. Take a damp cloth and wipe the shoes down, using a brush or you finger to clean out seams and stitching. Pay attention to tongue seams, sole stitching and lace eyelets. Allow the shoes to dry completely and polish as above, however, when first adding the polish, let them sit for an hour or two for the leather to absorb the polish well, this should ease the stress of the dirt drying the leather and the water affecting the panels.
  
  As for brands, Kiwi is affordable and accesible to most people. There are other brands, so if something is easier for you to get, that's fine. If you need help with selection, just give your location and I can find some local options. As for colour, try and match the polish, but if you don't want to, you can go with neutral - it will do no harm, but your shoes may have a diminished lustre or show more patina ageing as you wear them, as it lacks any colouring. Definitely don't think an "Express" or "Rub-on" option will do the same, it won't and your shoes will suffer in the long term because of it.
  
  That's the basics for at-home care. If you have any problems with them, like a seam opening or your soles are wearing in places, don't hesitate on bringing them to a cobbler. Ask around for recommendations, or check online review sites for your area to find a one. A good cobbler can do wonders to bring your shoes back to life, or modify them for your needs. I'm not sure what brand you have purchased, but some shoe companies offer rebuilding services for shoes that are significantly worn, but can still be repaired.
  
  If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask, and good luck with your new shoes!"

Care of leather is generally broken down into four or five-ish steps, depending on what type of leather you have, what products you are using, and what you are trying to achieve.

1. Clean
   
2. Condition
   
3. (Re-)color
   
4. Polish
   
5. Waterproof
   
   Cleaning and conditioning are the absolute essentials. The other 3 are optional.
   
   Cleaning your leather has different levels of aggressiveness. Core cleaning is wiping it with a soft cloth or brush. Next level up is wiping it down with water and a soft cloth (do not do this for suede). These two levels are pretty safe for all leathers. Next level up is to use a mild leather cleaner (many brands here, generally all labeled "leather cleaner"; also a product called saddle soap, which is slightly more aggressive), which generally isn't necessary, but in your case of using your boots for two seasons without any sort of care, you might want to do it. Care here: using leather cleaner will strip leather of oils, and will need to be immediately conditioned after the cleaning process is done. The final level to cleaning are heavier cleaners, intended to strip down the entire shoe of all waxes, and maybe even stripping down the finish itself. Mostly industrial/professional use at this point.
   
   Second step is conditioning the leather, or replenishing oils/waxes on the leather. Lots of products here, sold under a variety of names, but usually something like "leather conditioner," "cleaner/conditioner," or "leather lotion." Examples include Bick's, Venetian Shoe Cream (VSC, three links here), Saphir Renovateur (affectionately known as Reno), Allen Edmonds Conditioner Cleaner.
   
   A note about VSC: its name is "shoe cream," but it's generally regarded as a conditioner, and not a true shoe cream, which I will discuss below.
   
   The products discussed above are typically gentler, more fine conditioners. They are suitable in general for most any leather, but are excellent for higher-quality, soft calfskin or chromexcel leathers. They will also work on boots.
   
   For products such as boots, which are thicker, rougher, more outdoorsy leather, you might want a thicker, more protective product. To that end, there are more heavy leather dressings such as Pecard's leather dressing and Obenauf's LP. These also add a stronger water protective coating than the other coatings above (these have more wax), and may darken leather. Do not use these for finer leather goods, but this category of product may be perfect for your boots.
   
   For re-coloring (or coloring), there are, obviously, leather dyes. But there are also shoe creams, which are a bit of a blend of conditioners, polish, and color. There are also traditional shoe polish, which is a hard wax. Shoe polish does not usually provide conditioning, only color and polish. Shoe cream is more appropriate where you want deeper, more vibrant color restoration or color mixing; polish is more appropriate where you want a harder shine (dress shoe, perhaps some sort of army boot).
   
   Polishing is shine. Shine is really only desirable usually in dress shoes. Typical products are shoe creams (soft shine) and hard wax shoe polish (hard shine), discussed above. Also a bunch of chemical products like quick shines, shine sponges, and other things which I would avoid.
   
   Finally is waterproofing. Waterproofing can usually be achieved by using wax. And, coincidentally, most of the products above (conditioners (Pecard's, Obenauf's), shoe creams, shoe polish) contain wax. Shoe polish contains the most wax (as, obviously, it is a block of hard wax) and will provide the most water protection, but again, it might not be appropriate on your shoe as it also provides shine. There are also more chemical waterproof sprays / products that you can apply to your leather, which I would avoid. For example, the natur seal that you have seems to be silicone-based. I personally wouldn't use it.
   
   So, having said all of that, what should you buy? In your case, probably some sort of leather cleaner and conditioner. I like Pecard's, but you can go with any of the products I listed, or not listed as long as it fits within those general guidelines. If you're completely lost, you can just buy Red Wing's stuff, but it's important to understand what you're buying, so you know what it's doing and so you don't end up with a thousand different leather products from every company that all do essentially the same thing.
   
   [Edit] To be clear, I sort of went overboard in this guide. Steps 3 and 4 generally apply to dress shoes, not boots. For the case of your boots, I would generally ignore color and shine.

My favorite shoe cleaning supplies

Angelus Water and Stain Repellant, Clear


Kiwi 209-000 Suede and Nubuck Care Kit


Shacke Suede & Nubuck 4-Way Leather Brush Cleaner



E6000 230010 Craft Adhesive, 3.7 Fluid Ounces

Saphir Renomat 100ml

B&E LIFE 5 Pairs Practical Plastic Adjustable Length Men Shoe Tree Stretcher Boot Holder Organizers 5 Pairs Black

You could get shoe trees for much cheaper, from Ikea for example but I just wanted to link something.

Angelus Easy Cleaner 8 Oz.


These brushes are the absolute best if you know better brushes let me know


Angelus Sole Bright 4 Oz Salon care 40 works too



IRIS USA, Inc. CNL-5 Storage Box, 5 Quart, Clear, 20 Pack


Dr. Scholl's WORK Massaging Gel Advanced Insoles (Men's 8-14) // All-Day Shock Absorption and Cushioning for Hard Surfaces (Packaging May Vary), 1 Count

EB Kicks,


If you know of any better products please let me know I don't believe I missed anything

This video is stupid helpful for white sneakers

Get Jordan 1 Glitter outta your shoes

I recently bought a pair of Red Wing IR boots. They fit quite snug but I actually find them super comfortable. Even though they are stiff already I can tell they are going to be comfortable.

However, my wife wasn't super pleased with the price tag - she wants me to make sure I take good care of them and that they actually do last a lifetime. Protip: talk with your spouse prior to buying ~$280 boots :-)

Anyways, I've worn a pair of King's Toe boots now for almost 10 years so I trust the quality, but I'm wanting to make sure I do everything possible to appease the missus.

My understanding of what I need to do:

1. Clean with a cloth/brush to remove dirt frequently
   
2. Occasionally lightly condition, I bought this when I bought them at the recommendation of the store salesman. I probably will only need to do this every month or less since I don't "heavily" wear them
   
3. Buy a shoe tree of some sort - any recommendations? Is this one good enough?
   
   I'm also concerned regarding frequency of wearing. Red Wing doesn't say anywhere about trying to avoid wearing them every day, but in my read all-the-things quest here I've seen a lot of discussion on that point but only in passing, is there a good explanation for why/how that is important? I'm surprised not to see it anywhere on RW's site.
   
   

No shoe lasts forever, but here is how you can help yours try

• Avoidance: Try not to wear your shoes in the rain, wet leather soles wear several times as quickly as dry ones and are more susceptible to tears or other serious damage. Treat your shoes like you would your foot, don't kick anything or drop anything on them.
  
  
• Rotation: Wear your nice leather shoes only every second or preferably third day, this gives the leather time to dry, which will reduce wear and tear. Cost $0 Last: 10-15 years From: You
  
  
• Shoe Trees: Pulls moisture out of your shoes after they're worn. Maintains shape and keeps them smelling nice. Cost: $24.95 Lasts: 10-15 years From: Woodlore/Allen Edmonds, Jos A Bank on sale, Nordstrom
  
  
• Shoe Horn: goes behind your heel as you put your shoes on, keeps your heel from folding over the leather in the back and degrading it over time. Cost $2.50 Lasts: Lifetime From: Amazon
  
  
• Toe and heel: they're little metal plates that are nailed into the sole to keep that area from wearing. Doubles the life of the sole. Cost ~$20 Lasts: 1-2 years From: Local cobbler or shoe repairman.
  
  
• Topy: Thin rubber top coat over the toe of the shoe, lowers the wear of the leather. Cost ~$30 Lasts: 1-2 years From: Local cobbler or Shoe Repairman.
  
  
• Leathr conditioner: Every two weeks to two months depending on wear. Keeps the leather soft and happy. Cost $4.95 + Shipping Lasts: at least a year. From: Allen Edmonds
  
  
• Horsehair Brush: Keeps dirt, dust and salt off your shoes, brushing down when you get home will keep your shoes clean and happy. Cost: $6.99 Lasts: 5-6 years From: Kiwi
  
  
• Creme Polish: Helps moisturize leather, maintain colour and keep them shiny. Cost: $9.00 Lasts: At least a year From: Allen Edmonds
  
  
• Edge Dressing: Applied once every couple of months to the edge of the sole and heel, it will keep your shoes looking neat and sharp. Cost: $4-5 Lasts: 3-5 years From: Fiebings, Allen Edmonds.
  
  If you take care of your shoes and treat them well, they can last up to 15 years and still look beautiful.
  

No way! Another Michigander! 😀
Here’s a super long list of all the stuff I can think of. The biggest investment is probably a warm coat and shoes. The rest I found was reasonably priced at amazon/ target etc!

I got a down filled ski hoodie made by Spyder. I think it’s this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UWFH524/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2lavDbC53WXZX
NorthFace and Patagonia sell them too. I just made sure the one I got was made for sub zero cold temps. Any thing 40 degrees and over and it’s too hot to wear so it’s definitely for cold weather.
Insulated running tights, sometimes I throw a pair of sweats over them if it’s crazy cold. You could even get wind stopper pants for over the top. That might be my next investment for layering.
I wear a long sleeve and short sleeve T-shirt underneath.
I have a thick winter buff for my neck that I can pull over my mouth if needed
A wool beanie with polar fleece lining that’s long enough to really cover my ears and good gloves. I use insulated trail running shoes and when it’s icy I put Yax trax on them https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094GO6ZG
ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IxavDbHJBZEFJ
You can find cheaper brands on amazon.
And the last thing is a head lamp since it gets dark so damn early here. 😂
I tend to overdress and sometimes get a little hot but I’m kind of a baby about being cold.
I really enjoy going when it’s snowing. It’s so amazing and peaceful!
If you’re concerned about getting snow in your socks (I also usually wear smart wool or two pairs depending) you can buy gaitors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J5NJ5TH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xpbvDbED217RQ
I’ve tried my husband’s but I don’t feel like I need them. I don’t go in deep snow or anything. There’s a plowed rails to trails type trail here that they keep pretty clean in the winter—the biggest concern is ice.

I have the Blondo Valli's and they're absolutely amazing. I don't do heels in general (typically they always hurt my feet) but am comfortable in these - and I am on my feet and walking a lot. They're created by a Canadian company who makes cute, stylish shoes made for Canadian weather. I live in the Midwest where we have a lot of rain, heavy snow and ice and use these year-round (except summer) because they're not only waterproof, but also the bottoms are textured so they won't slip on ice (see: Canadian company). They're a bit pricey up front, but I've had mine for 2 1/2 years now, wear them daily and they still look brand new. Just treat them with a leather or suede protector and you're good to go. Definitely worth the investment.

They also have a few other cute styles, like these.

How could you have any cake other for your birthday than funfetti cake?? That's, like, the ultimate birthday cake!

These lock laces would make me very happy by preventing me from having to tie my shoelaces over and over while running.

Happy Happy Joy Joy! And happy birthday! Thanks for the contest. :)

You don't need heavy duty crampons, something like this would work (on mobile, not sure how to properly format this link): YakTrax 8611 Pro Traction Cleats for Walking, Jogging, or Hiking on Snow and Ice, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094GO6ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gU1lDbGMSKRKH

If you're camping prepare for it to be very cold. Especially if you're along the river. Wind can also pretty strong there. Definitely lots of outfitters in Moab, but as November is the slow season you may have shorter hours and some may be closed completely.

You will definitely need a car for both parks. Devil's Garden is a great hike in Arches, but the trail can be hard to follow. There's two sides to Canyonlands - Island in the Sky and the Needles district. Island in the sky is what people typically think of, and it's quite close to Arches. The Needles district is farther south and a little more difficult to get to, but it's really pretty, has some areas of hoodoo formations which are always cool to see. Dead Horse State Park is also pretty close and has a really cool viewpoint and some small hikes you can do. Alltrails.com is a good resource to get more information on hikes in the area.

Just make sure to layer your clothes - temperatures can change dramatically! - and always have lots of water. Utah and Arizona are both very dry states, and the lack of humidity can impact people a lot, especially if they're not used to it. Carry more water than you think you'll need.

Have a great time!

> durable and could last hopefully over 8 months

durable can mean many things, and you seem to need a few different things ...

> I'm getting tired of finding holes both on the inside and outside of sneakers that are months old

So it sounds like you might need hard wearing outers to deal with rocks, brambles, dog walking in long grass. That bit should be easy; choose sneakers meant for off-roading that have leather/suede/hard outers. I'm not sure Adidas PrimeKnit will stand up to dog walking on the sand dunes with tough grass and brambles, for instance, but the Adidas Terrex shoes would do a better job.

> that can handle ~20 miles of walking/jogging per week

Miles per week doesn't matter. Total mileage does. Durable in terms of "soles that last a lot of miles" is not something manufacturers really advertise in sneakers. Most manufacturers advise a max of 500 miles/6 months of wear before you'll see serious sole deterioration that can lead to injury.

Your personal mileage may also vary. Do you "float" as a runner, or stomp? It also depends on your gait (do you have exaggerated gait issues that lead to heavy wear/compression in particular spots of the sole), your weight, how hard you heel-strike/lift-off etc. You might naturally get more than 500 miles out of sneakers, you might naturally get a lot less.

Speaking of gait you should regularly your gait measured (they usually do it for free) at a running store to see if you need neutral/stable shoes for running (or even orthotics) to make sure you don't exacerbate any issues and lead to injuries.

> I walk/jog/ and work all in the same pair.

I don't know what your work is. If it is just sitting then the only concern here is the amount of time you have the shoes on your feet, and how smelly/sweaty they'll get. If it is a lot of walking and manual labour (lifting/twisting your feet on the spot) that's another. Something like the continental soles on the newer adidas terrex/boosts etc. might make the soles last longer, particularly if you find you've been wearing the tread in the same spot on your old pairs. They also might be safer as they are grippy on slick floors.

Given you wear them every day, as much as anything else it's about how you look after them. I would make sure you dry them every night so they don't rot/smell. After you take them off loosen the laces and let them breath for twenty minutes. If they got rained on then take out the insoles and stuff with newspaper to help them dry them out properly. Once dried/if not rained on then use cedar shoe trees to kill bacteria, make them smell good and stop them rotting inside (they only cost $20, get them 3 sizes smaller than your shoes and take out the springs if they look like they might stretch them). Don't put them in a warm place to dry every day; that just helps the bacteria grow.

----------------

TL;DR

• You seem to want durable outers. If you wear holes in your outers quickly then get shoes meant for trail running/off-roading with hard-wearing material.
  
• You also seem to want soles that last (8 months of 20 miles a week = 640 miles) but most manufacturers recommend a 500 mile/6 month limit on soles for running shoes. You may just have to revise expectations on that. However getting your gait analysed will help pick soles that match/help your gait and may decrease the wear on certain spots on the soles/cushioning.
  
• You also wear them every day; there's no fix there other than drying them out every night using newspaper/cedar shoe trees to stop them rotting/smelling.
  

Though I don't use leather boots at the brewery, I'm a huge boot nerd.

One of the biggest rules of leather boot care is letting your boots rest for at least 24 hours before wearing again. This gives time for all the moisture to be wicked away, especially from accumulated sweat while working. Cedar shoe trees are also your best friend, and will help even more with taking away moisture (plus they smell awesome). Put them in immediately after use!

As for leather care itself, coconut oil or Obenauf's oil are both excellent. Brush your boots with shoe brush, or wipe them down with a damp warm cotton cloth. Let dry, then apply the oil to the leather with your fingers, working the it in naturally with the warmth from your body (you'll feel sexy). Let the boots dry overnight, and then they'll be good to go! Coconut oil or Obenauf's will darken the leather a bit, so be aware of that.

I would shoot for twice a month for conditioning - really depends on how hard you work your boots.

Hope that helps!

> I have no clue how to care for roughout ; any recommendations?

I'm by no means an expert, but all of my boots are roughout, suede, or nubuck (still no smoothout, weirdly) and I've sort of winged it ("wung" it?) to some semblance of success.

I give them a through brushing with a normal horsehair brush to get rid of dirt. I use typical circular and side-to-side motion as I go. Then I sort of "tap" the bristles straight down on the leather, and sort of "flick" the brush as I lift. I do this to fluff up the nap, and undo any patterns the brush has made on its path around the boot.

That's just after a normal day or few of wear. If they're more dirty than normal, I might use a suede brush like this to go over the boot. One side has rubber bristles, and the other has a mix of synthetic and copper bristles.

I first take the rubber bristles and rub in soft circles. Because it's rubber, there's a lot of drag, and it kinda feels like I'm pressing down the nap a lot (and sometimes I wonder if it's just matting it down more than getting rid of any dirt). Then I'll very gently use the other side to "fluff" up the nap again. The copper bristles do a good job of this, but definitely can remove some of it. Like, even if you do it gently, sometimes there will be little bits of the nap left on the brush and sitting on top of the boots that I've got to brush off with the horsehair brush. I've no idea if that's normal, if I'm doing it wrong, etc. But I figured from the get-go that I'd have to be delicate when using something like copper bristles on leather. Using the copper side is definitely not a necessity, and I certainly get a little paranoid that it's being more aggressive with the leather than is necessary, so take that with a grain of salt.

If you want to add some waterproof-ness, you can try Tarrago Nano Protector. I used it after lots of recommendations from users here. My main criteria was that it wouldn't darken the leather, so Tarrago is a winner in that regard. After 20–30 mins of drying they'll repel water pretty readily, though it does wear off over time. I went really light on my applications of the Tarrago, because I didn't want to saturate the leather, but I think I could've used more for better and longer-lasting waterproof-ness.

For shoes, I totally recommend lace locks. I buy them on eBay from China so I can have back ups. They come in all colors. That way she can have any shoes she wants and she can be independent in putting her shoes on. I use them because I hate when my laces come undone and I don't like how it feels when my shoes get too loose or too tight. Plus, they are reusable, so you can use them on other shoes. I bought something to help one of students with his pants and buttons. I'm looking for it now. It was like this but it wasn't like this.

Make sure when she gets older that she has time and a half or double the time for tests in a quiet testing environment for her accommodations. If she has more time and its a low pressure environment, she will probably do better. I had someone to read my tests for me (if I wanted) and a quiet testing environment in high school and college. I usually didn't want a reader. But the quiet environment was nice, because I could take my time and it was completely no pressure. They usually didn't check on me, so I could listen to my iPod too (which I wasn't allowed to do because it was considered cheating, but I don't consider listening to Meatloaf as cheating).

For tests where she has to write multiple choice, what you can try is highlighting a box for her to write in. Having a distinct place to write in helps sometimes. Sometimes with math (which will be hard for her) 4x4 graph paper will help her line things up. I've also used 3 or 2 line paper and highlight each line with different color highlighter to give a kid a visual cue of where to write. They sell highlighted paper. If it works. There is also raised line paper which gives guidance. Its interesting to write on. I've used it at a training.

For her academics, if she has a favorite color (who doesn't), I suggest getting her a pen or a pencil in that color. Let her do her work in that color. Get it as an accommodation. If writing in a pink sparkly pen makes her want to do her math homework more, who really cares if its in pink sparkly pen? Staples even sells colored binder paper. If writing on pink paper with pink sparkly pens makes homework fun, go for it. I had a student who would only do his writing with a yellow highlighter. It made it really difficult for me, but he wouldn't write with anything else. Who am I to complain at that point?

You're doing good by her. Just remember 80% is success in life unless you're learning to cross the street or identify bleach.

Lock Laces. I started using them to save a few seconds in triathlons, but I absolutely love them for running. I ordered a new pair of shoes yesterday and the first thing I did was order a pair of Lock Laces to go with them.

They take a little bit of work to adjust in the beginning, but once you get it right they give you a perfect fit every time. Even if your feet swell during a run, they're elastic enough they just stretch a little rather than getting too tight. They also never come undone in the middle of a run, and they make your shoes very easy to put on and take off.

Hopefully I don't sound like a Lock Laces salesperson. There are other brands and I presume they work just as well, but I haven't tried them. My only real complaint is they're overpriced for what they are, but it's worth it. Also they kind of suck for trail running, and I definitely wouldn't use them for a mud race--that would be a good way to lose a shoe.

How tight should shoe trees fit into your shoes?

I've had a pair of these shoe trees for a while. They're a size medium, and I wear a 9D. That's apparently the right size.

They go pretty 'deep' into the shoe, but they definitely have a bit of resistance, and the 'heel' of the shoe tree is definitely engaging the spring, even at fully inserted position.


I just got these when I ordered some Bucks. I also ordered Mediums, and according to the chart, that's the proper size. These are much looser overall (in my other shoes too, not just the new ones.) The spring is much more lightly engaged when it's fully inserted.

They expand a bit, but they aren't pushing against the heel of the shoe nearly as much as my other pair. The others definitely aren't TOO big for the shoe, but I'm wondering if these are okay, or if I should upsize?

Basically, I never thought about how much force there should be in there.

You can wear any shoe on Gods green earth with these puppies
https://www.amazon.com/No-Tie-Shoelace-Locks-Completes/dp/B00JOMBZQ8

If those don't float your boat:
You may want to consider a pair of Adidas NMD_R1 sneakers. They're extremely comfortable and the laces are just for show so you could ask a friend or family member to doubleknot them for you tightly so that they never come untied, or you could tuck the laces into the toe of the shoe. They fit loose enough to slip right into them, tied or not, yet your foot doesn't slide around in the shoe when you walk. If you're not interested in those then I would suggest some sanuks. They have lots of styles and are very comfortable and fit right in at most social settings so they'll look casual and nice.

http://www.adidas.com/us/men-nmd-shoes
http://www.sanuk.com/mens-shoes/sideline/SMF10668.html?dwvar_SMF10668_color=BMRS

I really hope you find what you're looking for :)

Shoe trees are definitely going to help. They wick out any moisture left after a day's wear and help keep the form of the shoe as it naturally contracts as it dries.

I also should have been more specific, as you want cedar shoe trees like these for them to be the most effective. The cedar is what absorbs the moisture and also acts as a natural odor-reducer ...which is something for which I am gravely thankful. lol

Very cool that you're attempting the resole yourself! It makes sense given the cost to replace as you said.

Clean it with saddle soap to start to see if that helps. I personally like Pink Miracle which has saddle soap in it and is liquid so it’s easy, but you can get a tin of solid saddle soap at Walmart/Target. Tarrago dye comes with a prep liquid that helps remove old dye (apply with a scratchy pad). It comes in several dozen colors with nice, rich color payoff after only 1-2 coats (but apply more like 4-5 coats) of sponge application.

took these for my euro trip during summer and an asia trip during winter. Love these shoes. The gum sole on these should be easy to keep clean, but I used the shoe cleaner by pink miracle for the rest of the shoe. Looks A LOT better than what it did, but obviously won't be able to keep these that clean if they're seeing the world.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7NDT3A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A lot of people act like taking care of leather is like raising a child, when its more like raising a cat. Just treat it like really durable skin, which is exactly what it is, its not rocket science. Keep the insides dry and the leather supported with cedar shoe trees when you're not wearing them, clean the surface every once in a while with saddle soap or even just warm water, and apply a leather conditioner if the leather feels stiff or dry. I recommend Venetian Shoe Cream.

Yep it works. It won't keep your shoes bone dry if you dunk them in water but if you spray down the outside of your shoes with it really well then let them dry for 24 hours. It definitely will keep the outside dry. I spray down my shoelaces too and let them dry separately. I bought this stuff. I'd personally reapply occasionally but I don't know if that's strictly necessary. It's certainly not a scam though.

There is heavier duty stuff out there if you want something that will really make your boots/shoes super waterproof instead of "water resistant" though. Just look at reviews.

Edit: This looks decent too.

I am guessing that he cleaned them with a horsehair brush, wiped them down with water, let dry, cleaned with saddle soap, then conditioned with leather conditioner, oil, or shoe creme. Could have polished them with shoe polish and buffed them to a shine.

What's really cool is that you can get the stuff to do this at home (and you should) for something like $20. Then you can do it whenever your shoes need it. It's good preventative maintenance. I also started liking shoes a lot more once I started doing this myself. Here is a shopping list.

• saddle soap - $5.69
  
• neatsfoot oil - $5.94
  
• some old rags.. cotton tshirts or socks or whatever.
  
• shoe polish - $7.50.. but I am sure you can get it cheaper.
  
• brush - $3.50
  
  also check out allen edmonds site. they have cheap shoe care products and free shipping.

While that seems very warm, I actually bought this peacoat and found it to be very warm and i wore it with about everything I owned. I go to URI, so the entire campus is a hill of ice. I was able to get away with clarks because the weather was mild this winter, but my boots are a pair of hand me down red wings from my dad. Those aren't them, but they are similar. I love them. Never once had water seep into my boots. You will be able to pull out less extreme boots most of the time so as for waterproofing your shoes, this goes a long way. That goes for all shoes, even in the summer you never know if your sperrys will get wet. If you have any other questions feel free to PM me.

Hello everybody!

I recently bought R.M. Williams comfort craftsmans and was wondering which shoetree pair from woodlore I should buy!

My current options are Woodlore adjustable cedar shoe trees and the Woodlore epic twin-tube shoe tree pair

I don't know which one is better for the shoe I have (R.M. Williams comfort craftsman in 10.5H UK sizing) I don't know what size and type of shoe tree is best for my boot and was wondering if anybody here had any experiences with something like this and willing to help!

Here's the one I got. I have no idea where it lies on the spectrum in terms of effectiveness, but it works pretty well. Not waterproof by any means but it'll keep water off unless it's absolutely downpouring or you submerge the shoe in water.

The coating works by changing the surface free energy (I think) and loses effectiveness via friction and force. As such, the greater the volume and velocity of water that's contacting the shoe, the less likely it is to be effective. It'll also wear off faster in high wear areas such as where your shoe creases on the vamp.

My first GYW pair as well, also black cherry. I picked up a Lexol Leather Care Kit that comes with leather cleaner and conditioner. I wore them a few times and then cleaned and conditioned them according to the kit instructions. After each wear I brush them down with a horse hair brush and when I'm not wearing them I put in shoe trees.

I clean/condition them after about 5-6 weeks, unless I get them really muddy or something. There are surely others on this sub with better knowledge of leather care, but this routine has been working fine for me so far. Most will recommend giving them 24 hours to rest after wearing, but, y'know, they're boots.

Leather jackets pretty much take care of themselves but if you're going to be using it on a bike, it can get pretty nasty in a hurry.

The best advice is to just read the tag that comes with the jacket. If it's constantly exposed to rain and snow, you'll want to waterproof it, there are plenty of products out on the market, and make sure that it gets dried properly.

Here's a good general guide:

http://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-a-Leather-Jacket

Here's what I use about twice a year

http://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Leather-Protector-Nubuck-7-Ounce/dp/B0083GNLHC/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_z

But if you get two pairs of shoes, alternate between them, and use some shoe trees, they easily last more than twice as long. Basically, by alternating them, you allow the shoe to completely dry out and "rest" between wearings, but if you wear the same shoes daily, they wear out much faster, since they never fully dry, or reform to their "default" shape.

I've even done this with a couple pairs of Sketchers, and they've lasted me over 2 years and still going strong (which is a pretty good run, for Sketchers).

I've been lurking for a while but finally made an account to ask this:

I decided to go with Red Wing Beckmans (9023) as my first high-quality footwear purchase. I also purchased a Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush, a Lexol 907 Leather Care Kit, and Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree (Cedar).

My first question is: how should the shoe trees fit into my Beckmans? I went to a Red Wing store and got sized. They said I have wide feet and recommended I get 8.5 (I usually wear 8.5s in regular footwear like Van's and Nike). I purchased the 8.5 Beckmans and I've worn them about 8 times now. Out of paranoia, I double checked with the Red Wing store to see if the boots were creasing properly (as I have a lot of toe space and was worried that it might be too big). They assured me that It was fine. I ordered size medium (8-9.5 size) and They arrived yesterday. I inserted them into the boots but noticed that it was pretty difficult to get them in there and the heel of the shoe tree scratches against the heel of the boot when inserting. I notice if I wiggle the front of the shoe trees in a bit more before inserting the heel, it doesn't scratch the heel of the boot. I apologize if the picture quality is poor , I only have my phone at this time. Is this okay for my Beckmans? Or should I return these for a different shoe trees? I'm worried about them being stretched improperly. If I should get different ones, can someone direct me to a specific shoe tree? Here are some pictures of my 9023s with the shoe trees.

My second question is, do I need any other care products than the ones I listed above? My care regime currently will be to brush after each use, shoe trees for a minimum of 1 day before next wear, Lexol clean and condition once a month and/or after they get really dirty.

Buy good boots. Danner Arcadia. Yes they are expensive but they will last years. I can get about 10,000 miles on them before needing new soles. which luckily they are recraftable so you won't need totally new boots. I have had one summer and one winter pair for 7 years. got new soles on them once and that was recently.


Next, get good true boot socks. NOT work socks. Fox River, Either go medium weight or heavy weight. Buy a pair for each day of the week you will need them. then you will only have to wash them once on your weekend.


They are both summer socks but the heavy weights will help in the winter.

Danner makes a steel toe variant of the Arcadia and recon. avoid them unless you are in a rough area and need the extra metal for a fight.

I wore the Steel toe variants and could walk 20 miles in a 10 hour shift, do that for 5-6 days a week for months and have zero foot pain.


If you absolutely can not afford the boots get the socks. they are very important. The proper padding will make a huge difference alone.


One other thing. Get shoe deodorizers if you walk a lot. leave them closed when you put them in every night and they will help will odar a ton.

For my brown leather shoes, I use this to apply this. And then I hit it with this. There's a lot of different ways to go about it though. Put This On had an episode dedicated to shoes and they demonstrate how to polish your shoes in the film. I highly recommend checking it out (along with their other videos - very good stuff). Good luck.

Oh nice! Definitely the way to go for mens fashion. I rarely see many guys shopping for dress clothes so often have the pick of great finds. Heres the stuff I used on this pair: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000MLBCWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511888141&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shoe+grease ........ And here is the other method I typically use when working with regular shoe polish. Ive found this to produxe the best results when dealing with used shoes: http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/polish-your-shoes-properly

Awesome job! I want to make something like this one day but feel I am a far ways off in terms of skill at this point. It'll happen eventually.

Mind sharing where you purchased the hardware?

If you don't mind a suggestion, I think it would be worth considering waxing/finishing the flesh side that shows on your handle in the 5th photo (could still be done with what is visible). It gives the backside of that handle a more finished look. I came from the boot world first, so I have been using venetian shoe cream. This is what Nick Horween suggests to maintain their waxed flesh leather. Here is sort of a 'before and after' example. I see people use tokanole, which may work better but I do not have experience.

Unfortunately, the best way to prevent stains is to treat your shoes with a waterproofing spray before they get wet. Leather is actually pretty resistant to light cleaning. Try some mild soap (like hand soap or diluted dish soap) and an old toothbrush. Scrub the dark spots with soapy water, and then wipe them down with a soft cloth/paper towel. Once everything is completely dry, spray your shoes down with a non-silicone-based water-proofer and your shoes will be protected from further staining/damage.

have you tried boot-creme on the Kenneth Coles? I mean, I was introduced to it as a way of keeping my boots in good, waterproof condition, but it's amazing stuff. I've seen it take a pair of consignment riding boots from dried out to amazing in one application. I use Meltonian

I can't say for sure if they are the best, but I've had good luck with the cheapest Woodlore trees on Amazon. I've found their springs to be very tight, so I size down 1 from the recommended size (i.e. I am 8.5-9 and I use Small).

From what I've read online there are equal camps USE SADDLE SOAP! and NEVER USE SADDLE SOAP ON FAUX LEATHER, but I once wore my new (unwashed) jeans with a Steve Madden faux leather jacket as well as my pale grey leather Cuyana tote...both had black dye marks all over them ): Luckily I got most of it off with a cloth and warm water, but after that, I found that using saddle soap on the remainder (faint, but still present) made the marks on both almost completely unnoticeable. Not perfect, but very nearly - it seems like really only I notice because I know it's there!

If you try saddle soap, I would test a tiny bit of fabric on the inside/some other out of sight part of the jacket to see if there's any adverse reaction. Good luck!

Very Important:

• Horsehair Brush
  
• Some sort of cleaner (Lexol)
  
• Some sort of conditioner (Lexol, Bick4)
  
  Optional:
  
  
• Buffing Rag - could also just use old socks or cotton shirts. Make sure whatever you use is 100% cotton since nylon can scratch
  
• Pigmented Cream Polish - Can be used to recolor damaged spots and build a patina. WILL DARKEN YOUR SHOES.
  
• Cuir Gras - My preferred conditioner for greasy leather (like CXL). Not necessary unless you want to spend the extra money over Lexol.
  
  Be sure to review the Leather Care section in the wiki to get a good overview of products and care techniques.

Personally I've had problems with the indentations around the pillars getting packed with snow. But it really depends on what you're dealing with.

I guess the truth is that none of the soles are perfect for the snow but some are better than others for sure. And if you really need some serious traction, your best bet may be to invest in these.

Uhm... I have some boots that use CFStead suede, those are hard wearing so I was fine with walking in the rain. I doubt the Adidas can do the same. I would avoid rainy days for sure, but light shower probably ok. Aside from that, if you have a suede brush to clean debris, it would be better. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Shacke-Suede-Nubuck-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B00IIFFEPU

the stuff in the guides on /r/goodyearwelt was very helpful for me. after reading the stuff there, i bought some venetian cream and a horsehair brush. along with some soft cloths, i can do a pretty good leather care job.

i think the biggest things to note are: don't wear the same pair two days in a row, to give them time to dry out. condition when necessary. use boot trees if you can.

Yes they should be fixable. You need two things:

1. Shoe Emulsion to give back some color and to refresh the leather.
   
2. Shoe wax to protect them and give them back their shininess.
   
   This is a great German guide: http://www.dieweltderschuhpflege.de/praxistest/568-party-schuhe.html
   
   Emulsion: http://www.amazon.com/Meltonian-Shoe-Cream-Polish-Black/dp/B0019N8C4I/ref=sr_1_1?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1450103025&sr=1-1&nodeID=3421046011
   
   Good Brands are Burgol, Kiwi, Famaco, Saphir
   

I've had very good luck with these shoe trees on Amazon. They're made by Woodlore, which is owned by Allen Edmonds. These are the same trees as marketed by AE, just cheaper than if they had the AE name on them. I believe they're made in Wisconsin. I use them in my Red Wing Moc Toes and Iron Rangers and they fit very well.

I've been eyeing the brown suede 1K Miles recently. Your rust ones looks great.

Are the boots unlined on the inside, meaning it's just suede without any other leather stitched to it? Does the leather around the ankle ever feel thin or flimsy, especially when worn or taken off?

If you're worried about the longevity of the leather soles, I recommend finding a local reputable cobbler to put on rubber half sole guards. I'm in the US and rubber guards cost me about $38 for a cobbler to install them.

I live in the city and walk a lot, so the rubber guards really help. Otherwise, the leather soles on my shoes would have been eaten through and I would have to pay about $80-100 for a full leather resole.

If you're worried about keeping the leather clean from stains/water, I've read good things about this suede protector.

Also, keep shoe trees in your boots when you're not wearing them. They'll help soak up excess sweat/deodorize them and keep the boots in shape.

unrelated, but related, what is the general consensus on brushes like this?

I got one because I noticed a liquid mark on my pair after my company party. Brushed at it which helped, but seemed to have made the perfectly uniform flesh/suede side a little more variable. Nothing crazy, just wondering now if the brass bristles are too harsh on suede, or if I should have waited longer before brushing at it.

Yep! I use these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PEEAOS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01

They fit them perfectly. They're split at the front and are designed to expand when you push them into the shoe.

Prep your boots:

Knock back the finish a bit with some diluted dish soap and a scrub brush. Set them aside to dry.

Apply some Sno-Seal liberally with rag or brush. Allow to set. For the first coat, I like to hit it with a hairdryer to let it get into the leather's pores and all the nooks and crannies where boot meets sole.

Apply a second coat of Sno-Seal and wipe off the excess with a rag.

Now get an applicator brush, a polish brush and a wax matching the color of your boots. Kiwi is a good brand, I've been using it for years.

Swirl your applicator brush around in the tin of wax and then apply it to your boots in a vigorous circular pattern. Pay attention to the areas around the crevices (such as in the instep). Let it set for a few minutes and then brush it down with the polishing brush in a vigorous back-and forth motion. Do NOT rub hard with the polishing brush - you're trying to bring it to a shine / gloss, not rub it off.

With the base coat of Sno-Seal and a good layer of wax over it you should be good for all winter. Wipe off any dirt / snow / mud before storing them in the spring, then repeat the process above in the fall.

Source: Army veteran, live in the Pacific Northwest. Many of my boots are over a decade old or more.

EDIT

For anyone following along, I reconditioned my 16-year old Vasque Sundowner boots this morning as they needed it. Questions welcomed.

Simple Lexol conditioner will be more than sufficient the first time just to give the leather some life. Not sure how long they could've been sitting in the box before you purchased them. No need to go crazy with maintenance on those boots. Using a simple horsehair brush before each wear just to knock any dust off of them will be enough. Those boots are meant to take a beating, rain, dirt, mud, whatever - they'll be fine. No wax on them. Ever.

Leather conditioner is like the conditioner we put on our skin. Leather after all is skin, and it gets dried out. It just needs to get some moisture to it.

As far as a shoe tree - the one you linked is pretty nice and if you feel like spending the money for it that's fine. An inexpensive one like this will be more than sufficient..

I think Nordstroms half yearly sale may get you some pretty cheap shoe trees (~$15) too - may want to check over there first. The shoe trees are just there to provide some moderate shape to the boot. The leather is pretty thick on those and will be more than fine without it - but it'll keep any thick wrinkles from developing in the vamp. If you sweat a lot in the boots, the cedar provides some relief to the leather from the moisture build up.

Lock Laces are what I use. They have been very helpful in taking off a few seconds from T2, and I have had no issues with them. Most people will set them up beforehand to a comfortable fit so all you have to do is slip them on when you're ready to run. No brainer for eight bucks =)

Ugh, I have such trouble with suede shoes. And it seems like almost every cute boot at DSW is suede now!! I don't think you're doing anything wrong, they're just a pain in the butt to keep clean. Growing up my parents always used a product like this https://amzn.to/2POgyts to protect them, but I can't remember if it really helped. The reviews on it seem pretty good.

On the soles? Or just the shoe in general?

On Nubuck/Durabuck/Suede I use this: http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Suede-Protector-4-25oz/dp/B001333OZQ

On Mesh I used the same thing except the "all-purpose" version.

Leather cleans pretty easily so I don't really bother, but I will use leather conditioner if the leather is looking dried out (Amor-All Leather conditioner great and is cheap).

I have these cedarwood shoe trees from a German manufacturer for $22 each. These shoe trees from amazon.com seem to be similar to them and the price is very good as well. Shoe trees are the most important part of shoe care (but never use them with primeknit).

I have the same pair. You can spray them if you want to help protect them from water. I use Kiwi suede protector. If you get marks on them, use a suede brush. You really don't need to baby them as desert boots like fine a little roughed up. And wear them with anything really (except black). Anything short of a suit is probably okay which is why they get suggested so often.

Leather is essentially dead skin. Like skin, it needs to be kept somewhat moist to prevent becoming brittle and cracking, but unlike living skin, it no longer receives nourishment, hence the whole point of doing this.

Keep in mind, "Less is more". Always aim for enough to cover the leather, but not enough to saturate it. Your boots will darken slightly, just like anything that acquires moisture.

If you don't follow any routine? Boots may last you a few years, maybe more, maybe less.
If you do follow a routine. Boots may last a few decades, maybe more, maybe less. They may outlast you!

• Brush: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B0010TR6NE
  
  
  
• Applicator Brush: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Horsehair-Polish-Applicator-191-100/dp/B001ECZOKY
  
  
  
• Leather Cleaner (Haven't used this yet, but I've heard its fantastic. I've been using kiwi saddle soap). https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Cleaner-Honey-Accessories-Concentrated/dp/B00HU6N3LK
  
  
  *Leather Conditioner: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Conditioning-Oil-2-5-74g/dp/B00N9CHI2O
  
  
  You can find everything you need at most department stores, but this should give you an idea of what the tools look like.

Yes, I recommend this one.

Also I got the gum sole one, they are the same thing just a different color. If you want water resistant, why dont you look at the LL Bean Duck Boots. I'm in Atlanta, it doesnt really snow here, but I have them for when it rains and they are awesome.

Posted this on the after dark thread but the more input the better:

"I Purchased Chamois Vibergs for a deal (imo) on ebay. Anything special I need to know about chamois? I picked up a brush but do I only use the rubber bristles? Waterproofing or protection? Any pointers would be appreciated."

Ooph, good purchase! Hopefully you were able to try some on before ordering. I had to buy about a full size down from my usual shoe size. And in case you missed my other comment/haven't considered what/how to care for them here's this copy/pasta: At the suggestion of multiple reddit users, I use this cleaner/conditioner and this brush, which have worked well enough for me.

I just bought a pair of Woodlore adjustable cedar shoe trees in medium from the US (online) and they are too big for my shoes. They are suited for sizes 8D-9.5D, however I found with my 8D shoes they applied too much pressure. I would say they are better suited for sizes 9D-10D.

I have only put them in my shoes once, and they are for all practical purposes brand new. Comes in original box and will be packed up securely.

I am looking for $20CAD plus whatever shipping is within Canada only. Paypal

Shoe Trees I Bought

I would see the leather care guide for specifics or if you want to polish them.

Generally, a horsehair shoe brush like this one and some conditioner like a bick 4 or whatever saphir product suits the leather on your shoes should be fine. Just remember to condition sparingly (once every 3-4 months tops).

For walking I really reccomend YakTrax on your boots. I live in Elmwood Village and unlike the other reply the sidewalks around me are very spotty, with some dry and clear and others covered in packed snow and ice. (Especially the sidewalks outside Red Cross surprisingly.) The traction cleats help you stay upright and stay on the sidewalk, though note they can be slippery indoors on hard surfaces. Please don't walk in the street no matter how much Buffalonians love to do that.

Don't know how well these work. Might be worth a look. Good luck!

Zipper laces.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008AKR5I2

Speed laces, like hoobidabwah mentioned. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007DLVLDY/

cool, I actually just googled suede brush and it seems like it'd be good to have if I get suede boots too. is something cheap like this a good option? http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Suede-Bar-And-Brush/dp/B000PD5ESU

Lovely body and an awesome picture!

Oh, and you should get some Yaktrax - they will change your life when walking in the snow.

It looks like I can get the 8 oz bottle for 17.99 on amazon and then I could get a brush such as this one....

http://www.amazon.com/Shacke-Suede-Nubuck-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B00IIFFEPU/ref=pd_sim_309_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Gcr1ShzwL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0R2FYTGK2H8B7XN9PBY2

Or should I just stick with the kit that comes with a 4 oz bottle and a brush of its own? And a box of Mr clean magic eraser, because apparently that is also a good shoe thing to have.

Apparently they allow you to walk, jog and hike in snow and ice. They get pretty good reviews so they seem to work rather well.

Link - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094GO6ZG/?tag=rf-ca-10-20

Ooooh, I love that. I'm gonna go against the grain and say I don't think it's THAT difficult to not ruin something like that with normal wear. You'll want to put some kind of suede protector on it immediately, but that should keep the worst at bay. I would avoid wearing a very dark colored, very heavy leather bag on one shoulder, because that might rub and leave discoloration. And maybe only wear it when you're out without your kiddos, like at work or on ~date night~, because I don't know how well even the best suede spray can protect against sticky little boy fingers.

Of course, if that just sounds like way more trouble than it's gonna be worth, just send it back! There will be other gorgeous jackets when your boys are older.

awesome. thanks.
It's my first stain, so I was a bit overprotective. I will keep some character, but right now I feel like I look like an idiot.

Have you ever tried a suede protector like this?

You could try Pink Miracle Shoe Cleaner, worked wonders on some of my old suede shoes that had years of no cleaning

Pink Miracle Shoe Cleaner Kit 8... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7NDT3A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yep. No need for explicit motorcycle branded boots when these with a pair of these is effective, easy to don and secure, and durable.

Not wearing explicitly for track racing or strictly high revving/speed riding either.

I see these bottles sold everywhere for $20. I like to use a generous amount of this stuff on my boots and camp mocs, so I go through these tiny bottles faster than I'd like.

I slapped my forehead when I found the exact same brand in a 32oz tin for about $42 (with shipping). That's $1.30 per oz as compared to $5.00 per oz when bought in a tiny glass bottle.

Good ol' Scotchguard does the trick. I don't use it on my bags, but I spray my shoes and it works perfectly.

And what makes you qualified to speak for the OP? Are you the subby whisperer? "He says... he wants... different ideas." I look forward to the feature film version of this thread, with OP being played by Channing Tatum and you being played by a slightly damp shoe tree.

Speaking of which, OP can click here and get a shoe tree sent to his beloved in about a minute, thus ending this maddening drama for all of us.

I have a few of these that are my favorite. I'm sure someone else can chime in with something better though.

Eu folosesc Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush.

Nu știu dacă e cea mai bună, dar asta folosesc eu și sunt mulțumit. A, da, și mă interesează foarte mult încălțămintea de calitate și am grijă de ea deci nu-s doar un noob care nu știe ce recomandă. Peria asta își face treaba și e ieftină.

Și dacă tot veni vorba, pentru bocanci recomand Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap și pentru bocanci negri recomand Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative și/sau Obenauf's Leather Oil.

Săpun doar pentru bocanci, nu pantofi, și Obenauf's stuff doar pentru piele neagră, o să schimbe culoarea altfel. Pentru pantofi sau bocanci la care nu vrei să se schimbe culoarea recomand refined coconut oil.

De evitat orice fel de cremă colorată. Aia e moartea pielii.

I've had good success cleaning my kill shots with these.

Shoe Cleaner by Pink Miracle 8 Oz. Bottle Kit Fabric Cleaner For Leather, Whites, Nubuck Boots, Sneakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7NDT3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qy43AbG9DMZJB

Every 90's high schooler will have a different take on this, but here are a couple:

• instead of tying your laces at the top hole, do this and make sure you do a square knot not a bow so it stays flat
  
• tie the knot inside the side of the shoe (close to instep) instead of at the center of the tongue, make sure it's a square knot not a bow
  
• don't tie your shoes, just lace them sufficiently and tuck the remaining laces on the sides
  
• use these
  edit for format

I used this to waterproof my Uggs. Water now beads off of them. :) Granted I haven't done gotten them wetter than flicking water at them to test the water proofing and light trekking across puddles to the garbage can, but it seems to work very well. I can only recommend for suede, as I tried it on my nubuck shoes and it didn't seem to make a difference, but that may just be me so I'm not sure.

Get a Kiwi leather care kit and some leather conditioner

• Brush off your shoes with the brush
  
  
• Use a damp sponge to wipe off any remaining dirt (if they are exceptionally dirty you can use saddle soap)
  
  
• Dry off with a rag
  
  
• Apply the leather conditioner, let dry/absorb and buff with the chimois
  
  
• Apply polish with the sponge applicator, let dry for like an hour
  
  
• Brush shoes again, then buff again with the chimois.
  
  Also it looks like your toes are starting to separate, in which case I'd use some Shoe Goo or just some super glue to readhere

Just saw /u/waffl6's page. I'm sorry to hear about your brother. There's no way around it, he's in for a world of hurt and hard work. Be there for him, even when he rejects it.

You don't seem to be looking for input on getting him on the bike, which is good, at this point. Here are some things I've posted in the past that may be relevant for you/him. I sincerely hope it helps. Feel free to PM me and we can talk or I can give you my email/phone number and I can talk to him directly.

Response to a rider who lost his arm and was in despair

Recounting my own accident and initial hospitalization

First post-accident track day video and associated discussion

A reminder of why we ride in the first place

Most people have to emulate Thomas the Train to be happy/successful in life, "I think I can, I think I can...." Your brother will need to have this mindset from now on

I'm sorry for what your family is going to go through for the next ~year. He will feel defeated, he will feel helpless, and he will probably lash out at you all, at one point or another. Do you best to take it in stride and support him. I am where I am today because my family taught me to look at every obstacle as a challenge and that defeat only exists in giving up - keep trying until you find solutions that work. For example, i only tie one lace on my shoe (half bow). It's fast and easy. Took me 3 months to figure out, though. I step on one lace and tied the other as normal. Your brother could put something heavy on the lace or get special lace like these

I think Woodlore trees on Amazon are pretty simple and effective. I personally don’t use trees in my suede boots though but I prefer the worn-in look for them. Given that, I also don’t protect them for the same reason.

Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree,Cedar,Large (10 - 11 M US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEEAOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ewggAbA018CS3

As long as they are made of cedar, most shoe trees are about the same. I wouldn't spend more than $20 or $25 for them. For shoe polish, I really like Meltonian. I started using it on recommendation by my cobbler, and it works great.

This is your best bet, I heard crep protect and other products sometimes cause discoloration.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003U47QBY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1447449816&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Tarrago&dpPl=1&dpID=41pPF0AQMrL&ref=plSrch

I wouldn't put powder in them as I'd think that'd just cake up whenever you sweat. I'd go with something like these. I've used those types of things in sneakers before and they worked great.

Mine haven't been repaired at all. I periodically rub a little Huberd's Shoe Grease on them when they look thirsty, and I try to brush them off if they're covered in fine sand or concrete dust or something like that, but otherwise, they pretty much just do what they're doing.

I've been looking at shoe trees. Do you think this one is better, or this one. Or do you have one that is better than both of those. Also, with the condition that my shoes are in, do you think that using a shoe tree now is too late for my shoes?

That's how I taught my kids as well.

Mostly though, they love these things - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007DLVLDY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For suede, the first and the safest step is always dry brushing, a brush like this. Don't use any detergent or stain remover, just lightly dry brush on the spot, I have 3 pairs of suede shoes and this method works well for cleaning dry stain/ dust/ lint.

I don't know how they do it, but these are amazing: Sof Sole Sneaker Balls Shoe Gym Bag and Locker Deodorizer, Matrix, 3-Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IJ6HFM/

Oh I forgot the link:

Pink Miracle Shoe Cleaner Kit 8 Oz. Bottle Fabric Cleaner for Leather, Whites, and Nubuck Sneakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7NDT3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IoUZDb3T535SA

Anchor Laces
http://www.amazon.com/Lock-laces-place-Lace-Anchors/dp/B00JOMBZQ8

Kickstarter was funded by many Redditors. I have them in casual shoes and they work great. I haven't used them in dress shoes though.

I like hiding my laces too. Particularly when they're too long.

Do you know of a good shoe tree? I don't see what to look for at Red Wing Heritage website. I got a Moc Toe if that changes anything. I'm wondering if there are better options than the best seller at Amazon

Buy a cedar shoe tree. You just stick them in your shoes right after work. The natural cedar wood absorbs any excess moisture or odor and they leave your shoes expanded and smelling like fresh cedar.

Changed my life.

Just to be clear, this is a horsehair brush. On the other hand, this is a horse hairbrush. You want the former, not the latter.

I’ve used this cleaner on my hubby’s white vans and it got them pretty clean. A lot of people swear by the Jason Markk cleaner though. I definitely would not put them in the wash because it’ll ruin the rope part of the espadrilles.

Y'all - it's leather. You wouldn't give up on a pair of shoes this easily, would you?

Apply a light coat of tinted leather cream to the scuff, buff off the excess with a soft cloth. Then, spray a little Lexol conditioner on a clean cloth and give it a wipe.

Might not be perfect, it might still show as a little more matte than the rest of the cover, but should be much improved.

So should I use mink oil, or not? Is it for something completely different?

So far, it looks like I'm getting this, this, and this. Should I get a shoe conditioner like this, too?

You can get suede protector spray that works really well in keeping your suede stain free:

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Inc-202-000-Kiwi-Protector/dp/B001333OZQ

I've never used this on sneakers, but it protects my Suede Strands well enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Tarrago-Hightech-Nano-Protector-Spray/dp/B003U47QBY/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14NE04PP1L9AX&dchild=1&keywords=nano+protector+tarrago&qid=1570680635&sprefix=nano+protector+ta%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-1&pldnSite=1

I just sprayed my suede Vince Camuto ankle boots with this and it seems to have worked pretty well!

I would really recommend http://amzn.com/B000PD5ESU, it comes with what is basically a big rubber eraser that takes off all the dirt off my shoes (especially that white part by the soles). Love it.

What's it look like? If it's actually stained, a cobbler probably wouldn't be able to do much, but if it's just spots, the nap's probably just worn down and you can probably get it out with something like this. Otherwise, unless it's really really bad, don't sweat it. Bucks don't need to be perfect to look good.

Oh, definitely don't need formal shoes. All you might want is a leather conditioner like Lexol or Bick 4 and a brush. Might wanna eventually pick up a pair of shoes that are good/comfortable for being on your feet all day at work (which you might have already).

Sure. Your friendly neighborhood cobbler should have some. Here are some links.

Tarrago Hightech Nano Protector Spray 250 Ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U47QBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KwdHybCCFVVVS


https://www.hangerproject.com/tarrago-nano-protector-waterproofing-spray.html

And the famous Leffot video that changed the suede game.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PnOw_sNVG0A

I got you covered: https://www.amazon.ca/Woodlore-Adjustable-Mens-Cedar-Medium/dp/B00020BFSE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492368026&sr=8-1&keywords=allen+edmonds+shoe+tree


these ones have an automatic adjustable width from C to D. They are made of cedar so it smells nice and absorbs moisture. They are very well polish so it won't scrape your shoes. I have 2 sets my self.

Cool, I bought this and this, based on your and /u/micrafone_assassin's recommendations. Hopefully these will make the shoes an investment instead of just a splurge

Thank you so much! Is something like this what I should use?

Pro Tip: Invest in a Horse Hair Brush. I use it on my Raptor 7's and it cleans the nubuck on it like magic. Made the the upper look practically brand new.

Here's a link if you're interested. http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B0010TR6NE/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2OWTFZVIG7K1P

Or untie your shoes and toss some sneaker balls in. They're magic and smell like clean laundry.

I love running in the snow too. If it gets a little slick, try these: http://www.amazon.com/Yaktrax-Traction-Cleats-Black-Medium/dp/B0094GO6ZG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415805618&sr=8-1&keywords=yak+tracks

just buy suede brush like this to clean if You go with alcantara

firstly, congratulations! secondly, look up Lace Anchors. they might be what you're looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JOMBZQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1483182993&sr=8-1&keywords=lace+anchors

I am also new to leather boots! Mine were getting scuffed/discolored from normal wear and tear, so I used Meltonian boot cream to a) restore the color and b) provide a bit of waterproofing (since it's wax-based).

I also have Leather Honey leather conditioner, which I've used on a purse and my Birkenstocks. It definitely does darken the leather, so if you're attached to the exact shade you have now, I wouldn't recommend conditioning.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003U47QBY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

Used this on my chelsea boots. Works great.

This is what I use - works great, and it's cheap. LINK

Thanks for the recommendation! How is it on midsoles? I've been using this stuff lately and it's been pretty lack luster on midsoles: https://www.amazon.com/Cleaner-Pink-Miracle-Solution-Leather/dp/B00A7NDT3A

I wear them year round, but I'm in Vancouver and the summers are mild.

Leaving them on a shelf won't really do them much harm, but if you want to keep their shape well, I recommend a simple pair of shoe trees like these.

New to this sub and I've got a couple questions,

1. Can shoe trees damage or warp boots/shoes?
   
   
2. Do I need to buy special "boot" trees for a pair of captain Thursday boots, or will the ones in the link I provide work?
   
   
3. What size shoe trees should I buy if the captain Thursday boots are 10 1/2, do I follow the shoe trees specs or go a size lower to prevent warping the boots?
   
   Thanks guys😁
   
   Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree Pair,Cedar,Large (10 - 11 M US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEEAOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ucnRDb8FM31AP

Rinse out the inside next time you clean your Mocs, then use a bit of Gold Bond and these things called [Sneaker Balls] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IJ6HFM?pc_redir=1397918267&robot_redir=1). This has always worked well for me with my Sperrys and Vans, both of which I wear bear-footed.

Last February we got like five feet of snow over the course of the month in Boulder. It was nuts.

Got a foot in one storm last month, and that was up to my shins. Thank god for Yaktrax, and I suggest you get some if you plan on walking around in that.

So this?: http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Adjustable-Mens-Shoe-Tree/dp/B002VWKREO

Also I am wholly uninformed on this subject. What does maintaining the vamp do vs not? Also would you by those in the extra large or large? Thanks again!

The whole point of AE's Bourbon color is that it's a lighter-dyed shoe polished with a darker cream. This process is going to give it some variation in tone, which is completely intentional. If you'd like to even out the color over time, consistently use a dyed shoe cream of the desired color. (Probably Goldenrod here as an example.)

Use this stuff. I use it for my suede shoes, and it's fantastic.

If you still have those suede boots, you should consider getting a suede cleaner kit, if you haven't already.

As for boots you can wear during the Winter, I would suggest these Chippewa boots, although they are a bit clunky, but I like them. Sign up for Amazon's shoe mail list for 20% off, and that should bring these boots to just about $100.

Edit: As /u/TripleVision suggested, if the weather is pretty bad during the Winter, Bean Boots might be the way to go and are currently $99 on the LL Bean website.

Let's use a pair of walnut Allen Edmonds.

I recommend:

1. Saphir Wax Polish in any color
   
   
2. Saphir Renovator
   
   
3. Heel & Sole Dressing
   
   
4. Full-Toe Cedar Shoe Trees
   
   
5. Horse Hair Brush

I occasionally got caught in the rain while wearing them, but part of my cleaning process involves using this waterproofer to protect my shoes.

I actually made a post about the application process.

I use them for all of my exercise shoes. Besides never having to tie them, they also help in that your shoes are always at the right tension when you put them on. Here is my favorite kind:

http://www.amazon.com/LACES-Elastic-Shoelace-Fastening-System/dp/B007DLVLDY/ref=sr_1_1?s=shoes&ie=UTF8&qid=1393964261&sr=1-1&keywords=bungie+laces

Sorry for the late reply, but yes just get the scotch guard seude.
Link: https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Suede-Nubuck-Protector-7-Ounce/dp/B0083GNLHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497459714&sr=8-1&keywords=scotch+guard+suede+protector

Something like this would be fine.

Polish on a work boot mainly boils down to aesthetics. A lot of Japanese dudes seem to do a glossy mirror shine on their redwings.

Sneaker balls like these. I used to use these on my work boots when I was working in a pretty damp environment with lots of heavy work on shallow docks in which every couple of days you would inevitably end up with a foot in the lake. Throw these in my normal shoes while I was at work and then in my work boots when I was back.
mechanically_minded's suggestion also works, I've personally done this after drying out the boots properly, it helps kill the bacteria/mildew/algae from growing. I was told by a co-worker to keep them in the freezer at least 48 hrs.

They're running shoes. No one cares what they look like while running.

There are also these things for running shoes, which are quick to put on too.

Don't make it too complicated.

1. Take a brush to get rid of most of the dirt on them.
   
2. Take a wet rag and rub the boots down (this should get rid of the paint stains, if not be more abrasive with the rag)
   
3. (Optional, but suggested) Apply some sort of leather conditioner / protector (ex.Mink Oil Or Obenhaufs Leather Protector)
   
4. Use a Mr.Clean Magic Eraser (or similar) to clean the wedge sole.
   
   Some of the deeper scuffs may not go away completely, but they add character to the boot.

old comment i posted on some shoe cleaning, probably best to just DIY for uggs

Depending on how pricey and/or loved they are, my go to is Bedos. Dude does insane work with shoes, but comes with an accompanying price tag.

For my own suede shoes I use a good suede shampoo and suede brush to get out most of the crap, followed by some suede conditioner. Saphir is sold all over the place, hanger project links were just the handiest to find.

After that you can also look into (optional) using some tarrago nanospray to semi-waterproof and stain-proof them. That stuff is magic.

I've had good luck cleaning indigo bleeding off suede in the early stages with a really basic kit.

The only problem with that is that it's something you'll probably have to do every week. I cleaned a pair of sand suede Chippewa boots I've been meaning to sell that have about 5 wears.

Pick the closest saphir color: r/https://www.hangerproject.com/saphir-wax-shoe-polish.html. It doesn't need to be "woodbury," it just needs to be close. Saphir makes some pretty dope polishes.

These work too: r/https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019N8C4I?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=AgEAAAAAAAAAAP1S

Or you could spend a few bucks on these and save some time. I have two sets for my short and full hiking boots. They've been all over the Alps, Himalayas and Appalachian. They work.

I haven't had any issues and I've put them on Zoot, Nike, Saucony, and Brooks shoes so far. The ones I use are pretty much elastic laces with a plastic quick lock. Here's a link to them at Amazon.

These will save you: http://www.amazon.com/Yaktrax-Traction-Cleats-Black-Medium/dp/B0094GO6ZG

http://www.amazon.com/Pink-Miracle-Bottle-Basketball-Upholstery/dp/B00A7NDT3A

Here you go bro ✌🏻️

No problem! The suede brush I initially purchased was this and it has seemed to work quite well. It's also relatively inexpensive.

I've also used this kit and found it works well.

The first link is more of an all around brush and might work better for your uses.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpxWjCrp8O4 - like this

Plain toe or captoe. Brown of any shade preferred. Suede or wingtip I would say is a no go for the wolverine.

One possible problem: The leather sole doesn't hold up if you wear it outside a lot. They absorb all the water really easily which is a problem with anything with a leather sole. If you are in a rainy or snowy area, you might want to go with the Allen Edmond Dalton (choose dainite sole) or Redwing 8111 (the 8111 is more casual than business casual, but still is sexy) since they are both rubber soles. I can't say anything about the Thursday Boots in the above link that has a rubber sole, but some people love them and some people hate them.

Also, cedar shoe trees are not a bad idea ( https://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Adjustable-Mens-Shoe-Tree/dp/B002VWKREO )

Is this for yourself or a gift?

If it's for yourself, I personally just bought Kiwi horsehair shoe and applicator brushes. They were ~$5 CAD each... they sell them at most grocery stores and pharmacies in Canada. I can't see the horsehair brushes made by AE or another shoemaker being worth 3 or 4 times as much. I could be missing something regarding their quality that justifies that price though.

Woodlore is a good brand for its price. http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Suede-Bar-And-Brush/dp/B000PD5ESU

No joke...these are great for shoes you'd ride in: https://www.amazon.com/LACES-Elastic-Shoelace-Fastening-System/dp/B007DLVLDY

Yes less sensitive to water stains and everything stains. I was at my shoe repair today to pick up some stretched boots and asked them what they use and they said this https://www.amazon.com/Tarrago-Hightech-Nano-Protector-Spray/dp/B003U47QBY/ref=asc_df_B003U47QBY/ it’s good for sneakers and fabric too. See the photos in the listing. There’s other waterproofers but they will darken your boots.

Yes. Although not necessary, it can save your suede/roughout shoes from being ruined.

Link

I just waterproofed my suede CP Achilles with Scotchgard leather protector, and now I have a pretty distinct line going across the top of the shoes. Anyone know I might be able to remedy this? Tried spraying another layer of the waterproofer on - no dice.

http://imgur.com/a/WbeOU

Go to a shoe store and buy a shoe tree. It might help the shoe regain its' proper shape.

https://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Adjustable-Mens-Shoe-Tree/dp/B002VWKREO is an example of a shoe tree.

I used this: http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Suede-Bar-Brush/dp/B000PD5ESU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1302293067&sr=8-1

It worked pretty well but I have nothing to compare it to.

I use these things called sneaker balls because they’re super cheap and they usually prevent or remove smell if you leave em in there overnight, I would avoid OderX spray, I used it in my NMD’s and the white powder leached into evert crack and crevasse, If needs cleaning use Lysol wipe

Maybe i should change my wording to water repel. But heres one of the products https://www.amazon.com/Tarrago-Hightech-Nano-Protector-Spray/dp/B003U47QBY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479165270&sr=8-1&keywords=tarrago+nano+protector

you could also try jason markk's repel or crepe protect.

Any regular shoe trees will work for boots, yeah? I just purchased these

First, get a pair of cedar shoe trees to keep in the boot (you don't have to insert it all the way if you don't want)
Next, buy a horse hair shoe brush. After you wear your shoes, brush them down. If there is some stubborn dirt/grime, you can wipe them down with a damp rag, let them dry, then brush them.
Every few months, depending on how often you wear them, give them a good cleaning with Lexol cleaner, then condition them with Lexol conditioner. Let the conditioner dry, then brush vigorously.
That is literally all you need to do. No Obenaufs, no oils, nothing fancy.

Shopping list:
http://www.josbank.com/menswear/shop/Product_11001_10050_101593 (these go on sale pretty frequently for $8-$12)

http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100%25-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B0010TR6NE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1408110167&sr=8-5&keywords=shoe+brush

http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408110196&sr=8-1&keywords=lexol

I think /u/pizzaplanet is right, those look like suede. The beeswax technique works great on canvas, but I think it would severely damage your shoes. I would recommend using a spray made specifically for suede shoes. You can find cheap versions, like this Kiwi Suede Protector on Amazon for about $5.

i have extra woodlore medium shoetrees in different styles. this, this or this. i'll sell it for cheaper than amazon including shipping, just let me know what you want.

I store my shoes openly below my desk. If shoe odor is an issue, I suggest some shoe fresheners. Something like this

Thank you for putting in the time to reply. I think I will pick up some Allen Edmond's shoe cream as I am not really looking for a mirror shine.

Is this the Tarrago protector you are referring too?

I have THIS cheap one from Amazon and it works fine.

10.5D - I use these in the suggested size, it’s a bit of a snug fit.


Ollieroo Men's Shoe Trees Twin... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJIRM3Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought this one awhile back, it's smaller than the pictures make it seem and I haven't really used it yet as my boots haven't needed it yet, but they all look about the same. I searched around gyw but didn't really see any solid recommendations on one over another so I went with that one.

[The Original Huberd's Shoe Grease] (https://www.amazon.com/Huberds-Shoe-Grease/dp/B000MLBCWM) is all you need for work boots.

Here's a cheap suede eraser & bristle brush kit.

And if you're curious, the shoes are Red Wing 8105 Work Oxfords.

This is cool and all. But I switched to Lock Laces a few years ago. Haven't tied my shoes since.

https://smile.amazon.com/Venetian-Shoe-Cream-Ounces-Neutral/dp/B00QKXAGXW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549726828&sr=8-5&keywords=venetian+shoe+cream

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https://smile.amazon.com/Bickmore-Bick-Leather-Conditioner-16/dp/B001CS8G3C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549726850&sr=8-3&keywords=bick+4

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I apologize, those links are for a lot smaller quantity than 32 Oz.

This one is for a 32 Oz. can, but it's asking for $9 shipping.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fore-Supply-Co-Neutral-Venetian/dp/B00A6GAT0Y/ref=pd_sbs_309_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A6GAT0Y&pd_rd_r=2607ced0-2c81-11e9-888f-47f1b1d850e8&pd_rd_w=AFB3V&pd_rd_wg=8FnGV&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=1MKFN2KWN4KQZCVPFMRG&psc=1&refRID=1MKFN2KWN4KQZCVPFMRG