Reddit mentions: The best short lenght drill bits

Alright, no offense to the first commenter but we need to clearly define what we are talking about.
There isn't an "impact driver drill" I believe your talking about something like this that is a cordless electric 1/4" impact driver. It accepts 1/4" hex driver bits notice the special cut out at the base of the bit, that's what keeps it from falling out. It functions like a drill/driver until it encounters sufficient resistance then it impacts, giving increased torque(rotational force), it does not produce a hammering force(along the axis of the bit).

Now this is an impact wrench it too functions like a drill/driver until it meets resistance then it impacts adding rotational force but not hammer force. What are the differences between this and the driver we looked at earlier? First is obviously size, the wrench is bigger, and stronger, and heavier. But that's not what makes it a different tool, what makes it different is the tip, it's a square, like for putting sockets on, in this case 1/2" sockets but they make 3/8", 1/4", 3/4" and much larger!

So could you use the first tool in place of the much larger second tool? Yes! Use one of these adapters

Here's the problem tho, the first tool, the driver, makes at most 117 ft-lbs, and I believe that's stretching, the second tool, the wrench, makes 700 ft-lbs. To remove a rusty, crusty, stubborn lugnut you will need the bigger badder tool, sometimes it still won't be enough, and you'll need a breaker bar with a cheater pipe.

Now what the other commenter mentioned, the hammering force, that can be made with a few different tools. Let's start with the handheld impact driver yes it's confusing, two different tools, both called impact drivers, but this one we'll call the handheld, you hold it with one hand, and hammer it with a hammer. It has a cam mechanism that takes some of that axial force and imparts a slight (like 1/16 of a turn) rotation. It's good for stuck screws especially Phillips heads.

Another, more common tool is the hammer drill it is essentially a drill, it grips with three jaws onto the same bits as our first impact driver, or onto completely round bits, like your common drill bits but when you engage the hammer mechanism it will push its chuck forward and back rapidly, and the pressure you apply to the back of the drill hammers the bit into the material your drilling, useful for concrete/masonary work. But for real drilling power into concrete you want an SDS rotary hammer drill this bad boy only accepts SDS bits, provides it's own rotary and axial forces and will drill thru reinforced concrete like non reinforced butter.

Ok I think that about covers it, if anyone would like to add on I'd appreciate it. And remember:

Always use the right tool for the job, a hammer is the right tool for every job, and every tool can be used as a hammer!


Obviously that was sarcasm.

I haven't had to replace them yet. But if you need a new set I would probably go with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SHINA-Carbide-Jewelry-Engraving-Circuit/dp/B00OOM1QOE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498130399&sr=8-3&keywords=.5+mm+drill+bit

Carbide should stay nice and sharp for a long time to come. Plus with that particular set you can get a variety of sizes and they should fit into your pin vice. I would make sure to double check, or just buy a pin vice that would fit it. Bonus: if you ever get a dremmel these will fit right in for all your pinning needs! They are also available on eBay, not sure of the price difference though.

I don't own these but a buddy said one of his friends got them and loves them. Hasn't had to buy a new set in a while.

Often, you can delete the referral part from the URL. For example, take an Amazon link like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Dormer-A9202-5-Machine-Bright-Diameter/dp/B078C51DJV/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1526143210&sr=1-1&tag=xxxx&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325

The tag=xxxx is the referral code. The xxxx can be letters or numbers and it doesn't have to be four. You can safely delete it from the link. Copy the link from the forum and paste it into your browser address bar. Before you hit Enter, you first remove the &tag=xxxx up to the next &.

In fact, the rest of the gibberish are mostly tracking codes that help Amazon and maybe the affiliate poster, not you. The only thing that matters for Amazon is the Amazon Standard Identification Number (ASIN). It's always 10 characters. In the link above it's the B078C51DJV. Even the article name ("Dormer-A9202-5-Machine-Bright-Diameter") is not necessary, it's only there for SEO purposes. You could simplify that link to
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078C51DJV
... and it will work just fine.

(Fun fact: Since the article name really doesn't matter, you could even create misleading links like https://www.amazon.com/Cheap-Toothpick/dp/B078C51DJV and it will still work!)

Most other links work similarly. Look out for anything like ref=xxxx, click=xxxx, aff=xxxx or something like that and remove it after copy/pasting the link.

If they use Bit.ly like this

https://bit.ly/2Ie8sqe

then copy/paste again, but before you hit Enter, add a + at the end of the link like this:
https://bit.ly/2Ie8sqe+
It will take you to a preview page where you can see the real link destination. And if there are referral codes in that you can cut them out again as above.

> Acastus Knight Porphyrion

I'm not sure about that one. It's a mighty big model, but it's leg assembly seems to be more like a knight titan, than a cerestus or warhound. It doesn't have the inverted knee like the other knights do. No idea what cabin assembly is like either. The warhound cabin is a bunch of huge pieces, I don't know of anything that can prepare you for it. I used about 20 rubber bands while I was building, to make sure it all held together and looked good before gluing. There is a pic of my warhound WIP below, you can see how it's legs have 3 segments, making a forward joint, and reverse joint. Standard Knights and the porphyrion only have a forward, and Cerestus only have a reverse. The only non +warhound models I know of with similar 3 segment opposite joint style assembly are the decimator and I believe the kytan daemon engine.

For pinning big ass models, I still use paperclips. However instead of pinning straight across a joint, like you might on infantry, I go through the joint from the outside. You can see some paperclips under the warhounds foot. There is one in each toe that goes all the way through, so if the warhound wants to move, the pin must be pulled out. That is the only place I pinned the warhound though. I used big ass magnets on the head, torso, and arms so I could do this to transport it.

My knight titan has 3mm neodymium magnets in each arm. They are the same ones I use on marines, dreadnoughts and just about everything. They hold knight weaponry up decently, but some people prefer larger ones. You can get bulk magnets on ebay much cheaper than the hobby store, but if you don't want to wait, go to a hardware store, as they are still cheaper than hobby store.

I believe this dremel is the new version of the one I have. The flex shaft attachment makes life so much easier. A basic drill bit set is good for getting started, but make sure it has the same size as the magnets you use. I've started using jewelry bits for mine, and they are insane good. However the larger ones (1.5mm-3mm set) are difficult to use, as they cut more than bore. Just last night I couldn't keep a handle on the arm bit I was drilling, ended up flying across the room. On resin they are easier though. I bought a set of cutter bits from the hardware store. It was all spherical tip and tube tip of various sizes. It has been very useful for battle damage, and the tube tip is how I widen holes for giant ass magnets.

The real MVP of a dremel for hobby conversions and building has been the circular saw bits I got mine from a wood carving magazine, and they are paper thin. Not 100% about these ones, but they are great for precision cuts and removing chunks of resin.

That is a 'drive socket' for a 4mm hex bit. The 'bit' is actually the hex. This is made so people with a socket wrench can use (in this case) 4mm metric allen fasteners.

To use this sort of bit with a drill, you need a socket adapter for a drill. Here is a set with the most common socket sizes. You are possibly better off getting a regular 6mm bit set and a bit holder.

It's snapped off at the bottom of that hole? Nothing you can do is guaranteed to work.

My favorite way is to use a center punch and a left handed drill bit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037UUO60/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XF3QYQ/

Push the center punch directly into the broken screw until it clicks. It's important to get as close to the middle of the screw as you can.

Next drill into the screw with the left hand bit (spinning the correct direction) until you go all the way through or the remains of the screw come out.

Since it's plastic, never use that screw hole again.

Right angled drill adaptor

DeWalt DEWDT71517T Right Angle Torsion Drill Attachment, Yellow https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ORMG6AA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kGsDDbWE2VS0E

Thats pretty good drilling. Very nice.

I would try 3 things.

Take a small sharp punch and hammer. Gently tap the part of the old bolt and unscrew it.

Continue drilling and rethread the hole using https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21669-16-inch-Drill/dp/B000BQW6F0/ but use the correct size for the stud you have. Seek out a "blind hole" or Bottom chamfer tap if possible. Same thing, different name. Start with the first one, finish with second one. If you notice the cutting part is almost to the end of the second one. That allows you to get to the bottom of the hole.

The last resort is https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-6-Metric-Coarse-Thread/dp/B0002KKPXK same thing, figure out the size you need first. These are just examples. your actual size is probably different.

http://www.amazon.com/Left-Hand-Split-Point-Drill/dp/B00AY1ODDU

if you dont want to tap it, it will slide right through 10mm.

Also this: http://www.amazon.com/Drilling-9-5mm-Metal-Twisted-Electric/dp/B006W2EY8E/ref=sr_sp-btf_title_2_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1407385463&sr=8-24&keywords=9.5mm+drill+bit

> If I got a carbide bit that normally is used for milling, would that work in a drill press?

In my experience, no. Whenever I try to do that, even on the lowest speed, the drill press tries to shake itself apart.

***

Here is a carbide drill bit. Not cheap, but not ridiculous either.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Twist-Carbide-Drill-Uncoated/dp/B003JTI7TK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540831918&sr=8-3&keywords=carbide%2Bdrill%2Bbit&th=1