Reddit mentions: The best skateboard parts

There is another way to try!

It's getting a little more popular with a lot of people who started out in the same boat as you. You're doing great, and you've tried to help your pup in so many ways, don't feel bad about this at all :)

So essentially we can teach your dog to dremel her own nails.

You'll want to get some grip tape (the tape that goes on the top of a skateboard, here is a link), and put it on a sturdy clipboard.

Then you're going to teach your dog to paw/dig on command. To do this, put a treat under a towel, and kind of hold the towel down while encouraging her to try to get the treat. After nosing it for a minute, she should get frustrated enough to try pawing at it. Yes! Reward vigorously. Repeat until it's pretty reliable/she's figured out that you want her to use her paws. Then remove the towel, put the treat on the clipboard, and only cover with your hand. When she scrapes her nails on the sandpaper like tape, reward reward reward!

Make sure you're only rewarding for good nail scrapes, not rubbing the pads of her paws on it. Then you can move on to different feet (the back ones can be very difficult. Some dogs pick it up pretty easy. One dog I actually had to teach to leap off the board so he'd wear down his back nails.)

Keep an eye on the nails to make sure she's not scraping them too short, and voila! No clippers are involved, instead there's only the happy treat-time clipboard!

As a lurker of this subreddit I finally have some insight to share. I thought I'd make a list to make things easier for you (save you and maybe others some of the headaches I went through). I also picked this printer up on sale, but for $700 and have been working on it on and off for the past 5 months. In the beginning the printer drove me crazy and I hated it, but after all the upgrades and mods I love this thing! My print quality is almost on par with a printer 3x the price.

My first piece of advice is to read this forum post. This gives good examples and settings for the printer in Slic3r.
http://forum.velleman.eu/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=11410

The first upgrade I'd highly recommend is a new hotend. This is the one I'm using and it's fantastic.
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Metal-Only/v6-3mm-Direct-Metal-Only

and a smaller nozzle
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Extra-Nozzles/v6-Extra-Nozzle-3.00mmx0.25mm

If you do decide to upgrade here is the hotend mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:349095

Another upgrade I'd recommended is replacing the ball bearings in the extruder.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBGTK6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Other purchases that will help in the future are Kapton tape and more Thermistors (both of mine broke after the first month)

Kapton
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049KTIAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thermistors
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GD471PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's it for must purchase upgrades. The next step to do once the printer is built is fix the z axis. Here are the parts I'm currently using.

Motor mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:236429

A new flex coupler ( I know a metal one might work slightly better, but I printed one just to test it and its worked perfectly so far)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274188

Middle part of the z axis.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:235494

The top part of the z axis that holds the ball bearing.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:135151

An optional upgrade which I enjoyed, was replacing the worthless z home switch screw with a micrometer.

Micrometer
http://www.sears.com/skill-tech-1-in-micrometer-replace-40773/p-00940774000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

and mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:346613

All of this will significantly improve the print quality. You'll be surprised what your first print looks like vs one after the upgrades. This printer IS a project, it's definitely not a "build and play" printer. But the unlimited potential and upgrades makes it far more worth it than a prebuilt printer, in my opinion. Hope this helps! If you have any questions just ask. Good luck!

well, first I would get the best of the best.

despite what you may hear, if you get something good, and take care of it somewhat regularly, it WILL last you for many many years.

I buy Bones Swiss (usually $60 USD). and make sure to buy some Bones Bearings Speed Cream.

Now, for wheels it depends on where you like to ride, or how you like to ride. I usually just buy hard wheels (99 duro. Durometer is the hardness of a wheel. 99 and above is pretty damn firm) but you can always buy 97 or something. softer wheels are going to be good for all around skateboarding, but if you skate at the park, you are going to want hard wheels. you will feel a difference in the traction and also the speed at which you are going. But like I said, I ride 99Duro. The size of wheel is also important but I always suggest something between 54 and 52. If you want something that's going to last you longer just go with 53 and be done with it. It's a happy medium.

Brands? everyone has a brand of urethane they like to ride. I am riding some Spitfire 53mm classics. Most of my life I either skated Ricta or Powell.

Powell makes some good wheels to experiment with. They have an "All Terrain" formula of urethane that rides pretty decent as well as a "Park Wheel" that is suppose to ride better at plazas and (duh) parks.

However, I don't really see the difference personally in their formulas and I usually just get the ATF wheels up until a few years ago (I don't like to get stuck with one brand forever).

Now, with the speed cream, you're going to want to use it on your bearings maybe once every few months depending on how much you ride, but you will tell when your Bones Swiss bearings aren't spinning infinitely anymore when you aren't going the speed of light. You either need to clean your bearings with a Bearing Cleaning kit (here

Or, you can save yourself some money and DIY a cleaning kit (it's fun. that's what I did and it looks awesome. if you want I can show you how I made mine)

Either way, you MUST clean your bearings before you apply the speed cream, otherwise your bearings will just collect more debris and they will turn shitty.

I have a filmer board with bones swiss in the wheels that I have been riding for over five years and the spin like a dream and a new set I just put in my street deck that I look forward to using for many years to come.

Just look up how to clean your bearings on a youtube site and you're good to go

just remember NEVER. EVER USE WD 40. THAT SHIT IS BAD FOR YOUR BEARINGS AND IS NOT GOOD.

trust me.

Deck: Any of the big brands, kinda personal preference based on pop / board shape / graphics [Baker, Element (not featherlights, they tend to snap.), Flip, Zero, MiniLogo, etc.] You can also usually get a blank deck from one of those companies for a cheaper price.

Trucks: Independent trucks are what I've always used. Thunder trucks are good quality too. Indys are just kinda classic and very popular. Dad used em back in the 80s. (of the appropriate size, usually 139s, depends on deck width)

Wheels: Totally personal opinion, but I like Bones 100s or Spitfire Formula 4s

Bearings: Bones Reds. Classic. My dad skated on these too. I have skated on them ever since I started at 8 years old. Tried, true, affordable.

Here's my most recently purchased full, complete deck, parted out, for you to look at:

Deck: (not the exact same as mine, got it at a local shop. Deathwish decks are manufactured by Baker.) http://www.amazon.com/Deathwish-Deathspray-Black-Skateboard-Decks/dp/B0086Q7B2A/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1453949834&sr=1-5&keywords=deathwish+skateboard

Trucks: http://www.amazon.com/Independent-Stage-Standard-Truck-Silver/dp/B00APL6OY0/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1453949901&sr=1-1&keywords=Independent+139

Wheels: http://www.amazon.com/Bones-Wheels-100s-52mm-White/dp/B00CLCLRZW/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1453949927&sr=1-1&keywords=Bones+100s

Bearings: http://www.amazon.com/Bones-Reds-Precision-Skate-Bearings/dp/B000FDRQ1S/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1453949941&sr=1-1&keywords=Bones+reds


Good Luck! If you want to get into skateboarding, I highly recommend going into a local shop. A big part of skate culture is supporting your local stores, which are usually filled with some pretty cool people.

Oh gosh. I built this several months ago so this list is mostly from memory, but I’ll do my best. Also bear in mind that my experience with DIYeBoard has been a good one. I haven't had any issues with my ESC or battery. Zero issues with voltage sag or the controller cutting out. I have seen a few reports that these are common issues, but I haven't experienced them. I'm also listing the prices I paid for these items. I don't know if these prices have changed recently so take that into consideration.

Deck – Rimmable 42in top mount complete board (for replacement wheels and bearings) - $35

Battery and ESC – 10s5p kit from DIYeBoard - $220

Motors – 170kv N5055’s from DIYeBoard – 2x $40

Gearing – Gears and Pulley kit from DIYeBoard - $25

Trucks – Caliber 2 (black) - $30 free ship

Wheels – Cal 7 97mm 78A (flywheel hub) - $26 free ship (yes this pricing is correct and yes these wheels are amazing)

Mounts – Boardnamics – approx. $50 shipping included

Grip –Camo Black Diamond griptape – $9.95

​

Speed – 32mph on flat ground with 210lb rider. Could go faster but I wasn't willing to push it without a helmet or other protection.

Range – Unknown I normally get tired before it dies. My estimate is around 15-20miles on speed mode 2 full throttle

Approximate total = $500 USD (NOT including shipping costs for DIYeBoard items all Amazon items were shipped for free)

What I did right

• Bought high-quality parts (mostly)
  
• Laser-cut center logo
  
  • I originally tried cutting this out of grip tape. The results were... suboptimal. The laser-cut plastic looks amazing and was only ~$10 after free credits. I ordered it through Ponoko. New accounts get a $20 credit towards making stuff, and they have a huge range of materials to choose from. I used this material, which comes with adhesive pre-applied as well as being quite flexible.
    
• Custom fiberglass enclosure
  
  • This was probably the part of the build that took the longest. Due to me not sizing the enclosure correctly (see below), I decided it would be easier to make an enclosure rather than scouring the internet for one that fit. This was my first time working with fiberglass, so it turned out a little rough. But it does the job and conforms to my deck way better than any pre-bought enclosure ever would. It’s currently secured to my deck with screws threaded directly into the wood. The holes are strengthen with superglue. So far this has worked well (5+ screw in/outs), we’ll see if it holds up. If the holes start stripping I’ll just put some threaded inserts in.
    
• Installed a Bluetooth module
  
  • Although I haven’t gotten wireless configuration working yet, it’s really nice being able to see stats on your phone. I’m on iOS and use the Xmatic app which is very-well designed. It even comes with a companion Apple Watch app so you can easily check your speed and battery life while riding.
    
    

    Mistakes I made
    

    
    

1. I didn’t add extra clearance to the battery size when shopping for an enclosure. I originally bought this enclosure from MBoards. But either the enclosure or the battery was slightly bigger/smaller than the advertised dimensions and the entire enclosure bowed out when I tried shoving the battery in. Cables never had a chance of fitting. This turned out to be a bit of a moot point anyways, because...
   
2. I choose a deck with too much flex/bow. Even if the enclosure did fit the battery, attaching it to the underside of my deck would have severely warped it.
   
3. I destroyed two $10 42V chargers. The first was destroyed by plugging it in backwards to the battery (i.e. red -> black and black -> red on the battery connector). We don’t talk about the second one. ^(Ok maybe I plugged it in the exact same way expecting something else yes I’m an idiot)
   
4. I didn’t cut the grip tape very cleanly. Lots of rough edges, grip tape is harder to apply properly than it looks.
   
5. My paint job on the enclosure turned out a little sloppy because I didn’t properly secure the stencil.
   
   

   Potential upgrades
   

   
   

• New paint job on bottom (I might just go all-black and remove the design)
  
• New grip tape (with more consistent edges)
  
• Reverse-mounted motor (so I can use my dropdown like it was intended)
  
• Sleeker fiberglass enclosure
  
• Handle (I have no idea how to do this, any suggestions are welcome)
  
  

  Parts
  

  
  

• Motor Mount
  
• Pulley System
  
• 3250W 180KV Motor
  
  • This thing has an insane amount of torque, it chews up hills without slowing down at all. Very happy with this motor.
    
• Remote
  
• Caliber II Trucks
  
• Power Switch
  
• Longboard Deck
  
  • It’s cheap. Didn’t expect much, but it’s actually fairly nice (at least for a traditional longboard; as noted elsewhere there’s a bit too much flex for it to be a good electric board).
    
• Orangatang Kegel Wheels
  
• VESC
  
• BLE Module
  
• Charger
  
• 10S3P Battery Pack
  
  • This battery with its integrated BMS was plugged in to charge with its polarity accidentally reversed twice (see above), and it still works great.
    
    I spent a total of ~$770 on this board (including wasted parts). It's more than I wanted to spend but I expect it'll last a long time.
    
    Specs:
    
    
• Top speed: 28 MPH (in theory, I've only actually gone up to 16 MPH because of safety concerns :P)
  
• Range: 25-30 miles (extrapolated from the voltage drop on a ~2 mile ride, haven't had time to go on a ride that fully drains the battery)

>As the title suggests. Picked up a pair of Macro blade 80 Rollerblade's with slow roll. I thought I was upgrading my Zetra blades but the Macro's seem so much slower( lots of work).
>
>Any suggestions on an Amazon upgrade wheel/bearing package for outdoor asphalt/concrete skate.

As far as free-spin of the wheels goes, the stock bearings for the Macroblades are a sealed bearing lubricated with a silicone-based grease. In general, grease-lubricated bearings do have a "run-in" period where they do not spin quite as freely as they will once they're run-in & warmed-up.

"Grease lubricated super-precision bearings initially run with a relatively high frictional moment. If they are run at high speeds without a running-in period, the temperature rise can be considerable. The high frictional moment is due to the churning of excess grease, which takes time to work its way out of the contact zone." (source)

Though, it should be noted that, in truth, oil-lubricated bearings also have a similar "run-in"/"break-in" requirement - see here.

As far as slower skating speed and requiring more work to get/keep going, the stock wheels for the Zetrablades and the Macroblades are of the same hardness: 82A. in general, a harder wheel rolls better, as a harder wheel deforms less under load, and loses less energy to hysteresis - "The primary cause of rolling resistance when a body (such as a ball, tire, or wheel) rolls on a surface is hysteresis. This is attributed to the viscoelastic characteristics of the material of the rolling body." If both skates were using the stock wheels (or identical replacements), both would experience the same energy losses, assuming all else is equal.

And, as you describe your Zetrablades as "well worn" & mention using a lithium grease to lubricate the bearings in those skates, I would presume that you are not using the original wheels or bearings in the Zetrablades?

With regard to potential upgrades, pretty much any serviceable bearing from a reputable company (examples: the ILQ series from TwinCam, or the Reds series from Bones) will do, and wheels for outdoor use should generally have a somewhat higher durometer than that of the stock Zetrablade/Macroblade wheels - something like these, these, or these (all 80mm/85A) would work well.

Okay so I have a lot of questions... I'm sorry in advance, I'm really new to this.

I live in a fairly hilly town so power is a must. I'm looking for a dual motor setup with at least a 10-12 mile range. Some parts I picked already are listed below. All Except the trucks are subject to change. I'm going for a white primary with gold accents theme.

If I were to set up a dual motor board
• Which motor mount should I buy?
• Is this MOTOR the best one on the market for its price right now? I'm looking for crazy power! :)
• Which motor pulley do I need for a dual motor setup?
• What electronics do I need to run this setup?
• Where can I find a frame to hold the 18650's and electronics?
• How do you wire these things? I'm honestly just shooting in the dark here...

I already have the board , bearings , remote , and trucks picked out.

If you have any suggestions, please please feel free to add them.
I feel like I'm missing something here...

I own a 3D printer so if there are any extra casings that I need I can just print it.

I appreciate all your help!

EDIT:
Willing to provide compensation or barter for someone to source all these parts and manuals for me

I'm new and need help putting to get a board.

Copy paste of my post that got removed:
So a couple days ago I rode longboards with friends around the city and realized that skateboards are actually really fun and are a great form of transportation. I recently have been looking into parts for a board but I'm on a budget ($150ish usd). I've picked out a rough list of parts but i have no idea if they are necessarily "good", right for my intentions, or if I'm buying more/less than need, etc. Again, I honestly have no idea what I'm doing. The kind of board I'm looking for is affordable with decent quality. I intend to use the board to ride around town (my town is really flat) for transportation or just ride for fun. I also prefer to have controlled/somewhat sharp turning ability. (It'd also be nice to have one that looks nice, though not completely necessary). I say again, new to this, don't know anything. noflame

Deck:
http://longboardsusa.com/maple-pintail-longboard-skateboard-39-x-9-deck/
I chose this deck because I plan to add my own design.

Grip Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/Mob-Super-Coarse-Longboard-Grip/dp/B00G9EA4I4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500455178&sr=8-1&keywords=mob+grip+tape+longboard

Trucks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QHC1Z2M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3CDEUCT9UACPY&psc=1

Wheels:
https://www.amazon.com/83mm-Longboard-Cruiser-Wheels-Flywheels/dp/B00I1WFKKE/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1500454619&sr=1-3&keywords=longboard%2Bwheels&th=1

Bearings:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GBJC0CY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3CDEUCT9UACPY&psc=1

Hardware:
https://www.amazon.com/Bones-1-Inch-Skateboard-Mounting-Hardware/dp/B000GA6440/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500455038&sr=8-1&keywords=skateboard+hardware+1+inch

Doh-dohs Black extra hard bushings will help. I'm over 200 lbs and have to have hard bushings. You won't be able to carve a bowl with those bushings but it sounds like you may have some practice to go until then anyway.

​

Start with Doh-Doh Black Extra hard Then once those are comfortable switch to bones hard bushings. That's what I currently skate and can easily carve a bowl with them.

​

Don't give up! It's so fun and so rewarding and easily the best workout I have ever had.

​

Doh-Dohs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JV51XTC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_INx8Cb7FR80PN

Bones Hard Bushings: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H51GZI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_3Ox8Cb1HPE7AZ

From left to right, the boards are the Tan Tien, Dervish Sama, Icarus, and the Boosted Board. Tan Tien and Dervish Sama are more of my cruising boards with the Icarus a carving board. I mostly ride the Dervish and my wife rides the Tan Tien (since it's smaller). Also bought and returned the Loaded Overland (didn't like it as much)

The stands are the guitar stands from Amazon mentioned here a lot. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LBKFYUO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried out different trucks and wheels and found the orangatang 80a to be the best for me (same as on the Boosted Board). The 2 on the left have Caliber II trucks. I like the Caliber trucks since they spring back to neutral position quickly which is great for cruising and is very stable. The Icarus is meant for carving so it has looser Paris v2 trucks. I tried the 80mm Orangatang Kegal wheels on these boards and always managed to get wheelbite (and thus crashing) so I went with 70mm wheels and can ride without worrying

Nose and tail guards also from Amazon. Highly recommended as these went flying into the curb a few times and no damage to the board: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGJ8PHM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this helps!

I'm doing some research to buy my first board. I heard that the first thing to do is choose what I want to do with it. My idea is to use it for commuting, but my commutes are really long, so I started to look into Long Distance Pushing, since that is what most resembled it ( it's about 18 miles each way, so let's say 36 a day ) . I don't really know if I'll be able to skate that much, what I want is to push and feel like I'm actually going forward. I want to push and go fast without pushing 1000 times. I have a skateboard in my house but I can't use it because when I push I feel like the wheels are stuck or something like that. That skate is like 10 years old, so I thought it was because the bearings were dirty or something like that. I changed them. Nothing. Then a couple of weeks later I tried a longboard at Walmart. I could only push once and for less than 30 ft ( you know, space was a bit limited ) but I felt it easier. You know, like I could push once and go for much longer
Even though I'm going to use it for commuting, it's mostly for a trip I'm going to do, so it can't be THAT expensive. Before this, I was going to buy a Penny longboard because it's cheap ( 100 USD ) but I mostly read bad things about it from this sub and then again, the most important part is to push and feel. it. go. ( going fast without pushing 1000 times ) , so I thought maybe that wasn't a good idea
So... this is what I came up with. Tell me what you think and if I'm in the right path. Also, please tell me if I understood something wrong. If it helps, I'm 5 ft 5, 140 lb, and my legs are quite strong. I'm going for around 200 USD for my first time ( already double what I was going to spend on the Penny on the first time) :


 

• Wheels: The smaller the wheels, the more they accelerate, and the bigger, the more speed they can catch. I don't know what I want here. I chose speed because the idea is to push the less possible so acceleration is less important. Correct?
  Then, the harder they are, the more they slide, so I want the hardest wheels possible, right?
  I chose the orange Orangatang Kegels ( 80mm, 80a, 60 USD )
  
  
   
  
  
  
• Bearings: I guess for what I'm looking I need the less friction possible. They have ABEC ratings although the two bearings I've looked up don't... The Loaded Jehu V2 (23 USD) and I've read this Bones Bearings(with spacers and washers, 16 USD) are superior in performance?
  
  
   
  
  
  
• Trucks: The hanger width should match the width of the deck. I don't have a deck yet, so I don't know :/
  The higher baseplate angle, the easier it is to turn. I chose 50-degree trucks, the Caliber II Fifty ( they come in 9 and 10 inches, 40 USD)
  
  
   
  
  
  
• Deck: the closer I am to the ground, the easier it will be to push, so it has to be a drop deck. Now, every photo of LDPushing I saw, it was a double drop deck, but I read those are harder to turn, and if I happen to be on a hill, I don't want to go faster than around 20-22mph, so for that I have to carve, so if I can't turn... So I think a drop deck would be the best. Then, the heavier and longer the board is, the more it will maintain the momentum from a push longer, so I'm going for around 38 inches here maybe? That would be ideal, but I read that decks should be chosen by their width, not length, and since I chose those trucks, the deck should be roughly 9-10 inches wide. I'm lost here. Any recommendations? Remember that it has to be relatively cheap, but then again, at 20mph, I don't want to put my life in danger by a broken deck, so again, I'm lost. I've looked into this one (56 USD)
  
   
  
  What do you think? This is about 210 USD including the helmet I chose, the Triple 8 brainsaver (36 USD)
  Am I missing something?

Question, how long did it take for your balance to get really good on the board? First day on it I went from falling off in seconds to some decent cruising after a couple hours of practice. I'm currently able to cruise around pretty good but can't stop looking at my feet when I kick; guess the best way to beat that is to force myself to stop looking...

My biggest problem right now is still balance and really kicking. I'm in really good shape as a runner, but wear out super fast with how hard I kick and how often I gotta do it. Currently riding on slimeball 58mm 97's with bones red bearings. I did order some [ceramic bearings](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QLMQW6 /ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) today hoping when I put them in I get some longer rides. It could also be the surfaces I've been riding on as well. Best ride I've had so far is on some fresh blacktop at the college I work at. Did practice at first in the parking garage top floor away from cars, but holy crap they did the concrete bad up there and its choppy as hell!

Thinking I'll take this other guys suggestion and go hit up my local skate park at 5am this saturday to beat the crowd and just cruise around.

Oh, and 30 YO new skaters unite!

Yo this is such good advice! I have a Maestro as well, and the first couple major dings really stung, and I was pretty bummed. But it ultimately still rides the same, and I would rather have taken the hits and had fun than been all dainty all the time. That being said, I have reglued delams, DIY'd fiberglass and epoxy wrapped around the edges, nose, and tail... there's stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/Skateboard-Longboard-Nose-Guard-Black/dp/B06XGJ8PHM/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1520644901&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=longboard+nose+and+tail+guard&psc=1 never tried it because it looks like it would get in the way more than anything, but it exists.. At the end of the day, boards get torn up, best to just accept it for what it is and have a blast.

I'm running MBS 100mm wheels on mine and I love it. Those wheels are better suited to higher speed in uneven surfaces due to convex profile. Less effective in carving perfectly smooth surfaces than Kegel, but in speeds around 20mph MBS wheels feel great. The top speed is around 26mph with a hit on accel and brake distance. I got used to it.

Pulley: https://www.shapeways.com/product/LEZRRQB27/mbs-all-terrain-speed-hack-for-boosted-boards-v2

Wheels: https://www.amazon.com/MBS-All-Terrain-Longboard-Wheels/dp/B074G95LP5

First bearings I bought were pretty terrible. Then I bought a ceramic bearing which I thought was great, until I got me some red bones bearings. Way cheaper and better.

Buy these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1SY9O8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy yourself a bearing cleaner:
https://www.daddiesboardshop.com/oust-speed-kleen-kit

Watch this video on how to clean them with that kit:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mEkAeVVivK8&list=PLxpcf3QVT79RYO_7eRd-l7GMdGkSKWzH3&index=2

I'm getting up to 3 minute spins with the same spinner as OP. I made my own caps though, along with slightly shorter caps for the outer ones for extra weight to make it spin better. Pic: http://i.imgur.com/ZYmwugd.jpg

I need to get me a glass bed too..

Looks like it went up by a dollar lol but still worth it. Skate shops sell these for $25+. Don't buy the kit. Just get the $9 bearings. If you need spacers and washers then buy it separately. It's like $3 :)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product//B002E2MYSI/ref=twister_dp_update?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Spacers & Washers: These are plastic spacers. I ordered it just to see if there will be any difference. It's not required.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QGAJ4G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Ceramic Bearings

I have tried them all and these are hands down the best you can buy for the money.

I won’t use any other bearings in my skates.



If you don’t want ceramic, I recommend these as an excellent alternative at an incredible price.

ILQ-9 Pro Bearings

Thanks! Would end up costing over 130 USD. Being a bit short on cash (Grad-college), what do you think about this package with Real? http://www.amazon.com/Real-Team-Renewal-Skateboard-Complete/dp/B00BIHCDMW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1


So something like this?
This is what I sourced from what you recommended.
Venture Salt 'N' Pepper 5.0 Low Skateboard Truck (Black/White, Set of 2)
39 USD
http://www.amazon.com/Venture-Pepper-Skateboard-Truck-Black/dp/B005QZ1XC8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371988471&sr=8-3&keywords=Venture+truck

Bones STF Street Tech Formula Skateboard Wheels (Standard, Set of 4) size 52
34 USD
http://www.amazon.com/Bones-Formula-Skateboard-Wheels-Standard/dp/B001H55SP4/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371988582&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=bones+STFs+size+51

Bones Super Reds Bearings, 8 Pack set
USD 19
http://www.amazon.com/Bones-Super-Reds-Bearings-Pack/dp/B002E2MYSI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371988684&sr=8-2&keywords=ones+Reds+bearings

Real Skateboard MVP 3-D 8
35 USD
http://www.amazon.com/Real-Team-Logo-Renewal-Skateboard/dp/B00BIHCE7Q/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1371989286&sr=8-11&keywords=Reals+skateboard

I just bought these on amazon... came in a 16 pack to change all 8 wheels, and came with rollerblade sized spacers with the 8mm bearings. Some of the product reviews say they don't come with spacers, so I'm not really sure. The spacers that came with the wheels that came with my skates didn't fit in the new wheels I bought, but the spacers that came with the Bones Reds fit perfect.

I'm guessing if you bought an 8 pack, they might assume you were buying bearings for skateboard wheels and include a skateboard tool instead.

Someone else recommended those bearings, and I'm extremely happy... I roll completely across the park. Maybe buy the 16 pack and replace them all.

I would love to see wheels/hubs like the rough stuff wheels on the slickrevolution boards. The center part works well on smooth paths and the rest works well on the slightly rougher terrain : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mbs-All-Terrain-Longboard-Wheels/dp/B074G95LP5/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_200_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=MTWWM6K644743MD9F4FS

keep in mind the amazon price is from TGM skateboards.. which is a shop in michigan

so they are paying the equivalent of around $36 US here is a pair indy 139s on amazon from TGM for $35 with free shipping in the US now keep in mind the UK amazon listing is not free shipping it's £12... this brings the price above $52US and then chances are they may need to pay import tax after that

so for OP... since the amazon item would be shipping from a US based seller in Michigan it would be a good idea to find out if there will be any additional taxes added to the £38.87

Specs:

• 2x 6374 180kv motors
  
  
• MBS all-terrain wheels
  
  
• 2x pulley kit (36:13)
  
  
• 2x motor mounts
  
  
• Caliber II Trucks (I have wider Torqueboard 218 trucks coming so I can mount both motors inside)
  
  
• Antispark switch
  
  
• FSESC 200A
  
  
• 2x 6s 6000mAh Lipos
  
  
• Deck from a longboard I bought like 4 years ago
  
  
• Both enclosures were 3d printed with ProtoPasta carbon fiber and TPU washers that vary in thickness to compensate for the contours of the board (my own design).
  
  
• bearings
  
  
• Dual charger
  
  
• other various screws, nuts, wires, connectors, solder, etc
  
  
  Total Cost: Approx. $1200
  
  
  Additional notes:
  
  
• This was my first time using this brand of carbon fiber filament and I have to say its insanely strong, knocking on the back of the case, which is only 5mm thick, feels like knocking on a brick wall, its nothing like any filament i've ever used before and prints surprisingly well but will destroy brass nozzles (which cost pennies anyways).
  
  
• I've gotten it up to 26mph so far, with plenty of throttle left to go (I'd honestly say I didn't hit over 50% throttle). It's been about 2 years since I've rode my longboard, and I've only tried a friends boosted board once about a year ago, so I still need to build up to going fast. A more experienced rider got it up to 29mph and said he still had throttle to spare. So so far no one has been willing to top it off, I'll report back once I get some numbers. I will say that it accelerates faster than most if not all brand name boards.
  
  
• Yes I am aware that I fucked up my rear motor, I have since fixed the issue... Whoops.

1. Board Blazers, The Original LED Underglow Lights for Skateboards, Longboards
   These are the lights I seem to have seen mentioned by most users here and on Youtube video reviews I've seen.
   
   
2. Skateboard Longboard Nose Guard and Tail Guard These are black tail and nose guards I see being easy to install. Soon as my board is here, I'll be getting these.
   
   
3. As someone else already pointed out, Flatland-3D also makes some popular crash guards. Not sure why people aren't posting about/buying the ones sold by Boosted themselves.
   
   
4. Headlights by Shredlights are probably the most popular right now.

here's a quick list I put together for a solid custom setup.

Deck: Enjoi 8.0 (you could swap this for another deck of any quality brand.

Trucks: independent stage 11's. (note this is in a set of one, so you'll have to buy two trucks)

Wheels: Spitfire formula four's

bearings: bones reds

grip tape: mob grip

Hardware: 7/8". (personally I go to a hardware store and get them a bit cheaper)

Definitely do your research and decide what would be best for you though.

I always enjoy fishing, hiking, or camping when I have break! Or I'll get a bunch of people over and play nintendo 64 games and have a pizza party!

This is my wishlist item!

My go to cheap but good bearings would be these Bones Reds. If you take care not to ride them in the rain, they usually last me about 3-6 months of daily riding.

What's the target spin time to shoot for using a regular rollerblade bearings? I have [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBGTK6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) from Amazon. As is, right out of the bag, I can get maybe 10 seconds. Once I clean and polish the bearings, I can get it up to a minute. Tomorrow, I'm going to increase the polishing time and clean it out a little better and see how much I can get the time up to.

These are similar and have their own battery. Been eyeing them but I don’t like that you mount them between the trucks and deck.


Third Kind Skateboard Longboard Lights.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013KXTMM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8cIzDbM9XS6BX

i ride a penny skateboard around and they use 59mm 78a wheels. You could get bigger wheels if you wanted, but with so many people copying penny, wheels in this size are pretty easily obtained, and about $10 cheaper than typical longboard wheels ($25 as opposed to $35)
http://www.amazon.com/Tiger-Boards-Skateboard-Wheels-Black/dp/B008Y2RN2E/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1361049014&sr=8-14&keywords=59mm+wheels&tag=side01b-20

and if you dont have bearings, you can get the stereo vinyl cruiser wheels. those come with bearings
http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Vinyl-Cruiser-Wheels-Color/dp/B005QK7GLA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371506149&sr=8-2&keywords=stereo+vinyl+wheels

There's probably vids on YouTube for what's acceptable noise and change noises. I have been running stock bearings on the drive wheels and zealous on front for over 600mi on the v1 and about 200 mi on the v2. Put them in when I got the boards and haven't changed since.

Skip the ceramics, these free spin at least as long as bone ceramics and are cheap to replace. Zealous bearings on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Zealous-Bearings-Longboards-Skateboards/dp/B00BL9VCRE

Would be really nice if it could be powered by something like this. That would be a clean setup

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013KXTMM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m.cDDbWMYZ2JE

Do you think this would be okay as well? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ETERNAL-SKATEBOARD-COMPLETE-Black-Sea-Whaler-7-75-/361463160771?hash=item5428e21fc3

And then just buy http://www.amazon.com/Tiger-Boards-Skateboard-Wheels-Black/dp/B008Y2RN2E/ref=sr_1_9?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1454012918&sr=1-9&keywords=skateboard+wheels

and slap those wheels on there?

How would 59mm wheels fit on a board that comes with 52mm wheels?

I'll try to remember to upload the model somewhere later (remind me if interested). A couple of my spools are 5kg, so I made a custom adjustable spool holder. Prints in about an hour, just needs four 22mm bearings.

It's basically a "rack" base (like the rack from a rack and pinion), with 2 plates that snap in vertically between "teeth". Each plate has 2 spindles that match the ID of a bearing. Then there are 4 "wheel guides" that snap on to the OD of the bearing, with a lip to guide the spool to stay on the bearing.

Could use some extra reinforcement on the vertical plates, but it's done pretty well for around 20-30 hours of printing with it thus far.

Any suggestions for bash guards or tail guards? I found some on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077CQBC33/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

but wondering if there are any other options to consider. gonna likely get one for my Kut-thaka and even my Tarab but not sure if having one will make beginner level free style(for the Tarab's case) difficult. I just wanna take as much care for these decks as I can

> skatehut.co.uk

Looking through the site, wow... I didn't realize how hard VAT hit you for those US brand trucks. I need to do more research on trucks available in the UK. The prices for the brands I mentioned are totally unreasonable over there. Reading reviews about Enuff doesn't build my confidence in them, though, so I'd still steer clear if you can swing the cash.

Edit: maybe check Amazon? I found some reasonably priced 8" Independent trucks with free delivery on the UK Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Independent-Stage-11-Standard-Truck/dp/B00APL6OY0

They fit pretty tight I have not had them fall off or wear out yet and I have had them for about a week and I got them from amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGJ8PHM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for watching! Yeah, the boosted board is definitely a good beginner board but the price makes it a big investment. I assume most beginners would look for something cheaper. The bash protectors are the "Skateboard Deck Guards" link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077CQBC33?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf. I've had the back one slide off a bit so I hope they last.

http://www.amazon.com/Skateboard-Grip-Sheet-Black-BUBBLE/dp/B002E0B2BK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319933794&sr=8-1

maybe something like this. although its like sandpaper and wont come off easily. i've done this once. I cut a small reallly small line/blob and added it to the right button. Along the corner. so it would catch my fingers if it slipped or i could just press it w/o slipping.

use really good scissors and i wouldnt recommend covering the entire button as it is very rough.

Super Reds (ones he changed) - http://amzn.com/B00J1O775W
Zealous (the ones he recommends we switch to) - http://amzn.com/B00BL9VCRE

They are probably more stable, because like me, you've loosen the bushings to the point that they're not making full contact in the turns. The only thing to do is try it out. But you can't have both carvy while being stable at high speeds. Those offset each other. I put these on mine:

https://www.amazon.com/Bones-Hardcore-White-Black-Bushings/dp/B003H51GZI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1494692710&sr=8-6&keywords=bones+bushings

it didn't make it any more carvy than loosening the old bushings, but it did make it a little smoother when I transition on and off a carve. But those are hard, when I tried putting Meds on it got more carvy, but it wasn't as stable at high speed.

But being stable at high speed has a lot to do with experience too. When I started out going over 12mph would give me speed wobbles on any bushing or setup. Tightening the trucks got me to higher speeds, but I could barely turn it. Eventually I learned how to go faster on a carvy setup. But I'm still no pro.

Just pointing out, generally speaking, the easier a board is to turn, the more sensitive it will be at higher speeds, that's just physics, Your car doesn't suffer nearly as much and that's because your car doesn't shift it's weight to turn or have back wheels that also turn. So I'd say for a longboard go for a Med or Hard bushing (the wider deck of a longboard gives you more leverage so you don't need it to be as soft in the bushings compared to something like a penny board).

If you also do your research you'll find too that using the tubes vs cones, changes the characteristics too. (I've got 2 hard cone bushings on mine, which will handle different than 2 med tube bushings) And some people run a cone and tube. You need to ride them to figure out what works for you. But if you're not as experienced, I'd avoid the soft stuff.

The bearings that come with the boostedboard are actually pretty water-resisting. If you are looking for new ones I heard these are good if you are willing to pay.
https://www.amazon.com/Rush-DECK-CERAMIC-ALL-WEATHER-BEARINGS/dp/B001DIQ2SC

I've got like new 97mm white evolve gtr wheels along with old boy ceramic bearings that cost me $45 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QLMQW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

PM if interested, I can sell as a batch

Be warned: I bought the conversion kit thinking it would work with these MBS all-terrain wheels... it does not.

https://www.amazon.com/MBS-All-Terrain-Longboard-Wheels/dp/B074G95LP5

Apparently it previously did, but MBS changed their core design. I was advised by SR that I can make the conversion kit pulleys fit by slightly filing down the pieces that fit into the wheel core) but I assume that might make it an insecure fit for their wheels such as the Foamies.

Hey, I just got my Paris v2 180mm and Orangutan Stimulus 83a wheels. I'm now looking for a bearing and this is what I might be getting. Is the size okay for my wheels? Is there any specific things that I will need to take note of? One more thing is that are these bearing pre lubed? Do I need to lube it by myself? This is my first time assembling my board and I just want to make sure I got everything correct.

I'm a college student who weighs ~170 lbs (77 kg) and is currently trying to cruise around 10+ miles (16+ km) for transportation purposes on and off campus.

I ride on uneven sidewalks, bricks, and rough asphalt. I have a drop-through deck that can fit wheels up to 114 mm in diameter and 53 mm in width.

I dont know if I should ride with soft wheels (78a), hard wheels (82a), or somewhere in-between (80a).

I have a few wheels that have caught my eye:

1. Kryptonics Classic 80a 80mm
   
2. Orangatang Kegel 80a 80 mm
   
3. River Rapid 110mm Matt McKeen Signature Wheel
   
4. 97mm x 52mm 82a Wheels Longboard Flywheels
   
   My question: Which wheels will be right for what I demand(short & long distance cruising)?
   
   and what range on the durometer (for cruising purposes) should certain people have their wheels on?

Ceramic can't rust and the enclosure needs to be stainless steel too. These bearings fits well :
https://www.amazon.com/Rush-DECK-CERAMIC-ALL-WEATHER-BEARINGS/dp/B001DIQ2SC
I think I'll have to clean them regularly tho

These have worked well for me.

Depending on the thickness of the board, you may need to loosen them up or tighten them before applying. To avoid scratches and grooves, I’d open them up a little, make sure they’re on straight, then squeeze them tight. They’re made up of flexible metal segments under a rubber casing, so shaping them is sort of like bending stiff wire.

They are a little shapeable, so they’ll fit most designs with a little bending/molding.

Like mountain board wheels? Or these $25 83mm Amazon mids

$24 USD from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/83mm-Longboard-Cruiser-Wheels-Flywheels/dp/B00I1WFKKE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

Hopefully some stores in Australia can get some real flywheels in stock soon so I do not need to look for clones.

That's what I read- can I effectively power slide on these types of wheels?

https://www.amazon.com/Tiger-Boards-Skateboard-Wheels-Black/dp/B008Y2RN2E?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

(These are not my exact wheels- just similar to the type I have on my board)

I linked this recently. The last picture is with the all terrain tires. I recommend getting it on Amazon over eBay so you can grab the warranty. He also lists a different drive gear kit, I'll link the other one. You could also mount it on a different deck. The one big drawback is the single motor.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ElectricSkateboarding/comments/6hv5h9/yuneec_ego_mod_top_speed_160_mph_verified_by_gps/

Board:

https://www.amazon.com/Yuneec-E-GO2-Electric-Longboard-Skateboard/dp/B01GTVN5K0

Upgraded Drive:

https://www.boardbumpersshop.com/product-page/yuneec-ego-ego-2-29t-drive-gear-upgrade-kit

Belt:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISCA8S6

Wheels:

https://www.boardbumpersshop.com/product-page/97mm-78a-flywheels

https://www.amazon.com/MBS-All-Terrain-Longboard-Wheels/dp/B074G95LP5

It's pretty noticable regarding turning. Also, the big wheels might be the smoothest ride / commute that I've ever had... Setup:

Oldboy Premium Ceramic Bearings for Longboard, Skateboard, Quad Skate, Inline Rollerblades or Scooter Wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QLMQW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lCj3Cb4M58RXY


Tensor Mag Light Skateboard Truck - Silver/Red - 5.25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NNRW55H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4Dj3CbQZENCH8


Orangatang Caguama 85 mm 77a Longboard Wheels for Cruising, DIY Electric Skateboards, Eboards (Blue, Set of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M59PQSN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9Ej3CbBKDBPEQ

Board
https://www.tristarskateboards.com/skateboards/decks/pop-shape/chocolate/cleveland-chunk-deck-pid-11357


Dime Bag Hardware Angled Wedge Rubber Riser Pads 5/16"-9/16" (8mm-14mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXVG3WG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pJj3CbN0BRAW8

I want to rainproof a Penny Board, and I know the bearings will die if water sits in a stainless steel bearing. Are ceramic bearings just as good, and resistant to water getting it? How are the RUSH ceramic bearings (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DIQ2SC/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)? Are there any covers for the wheels I can use to also keep water out? Thanks.

Thanks! :D And aren't they only like $15?

That was really hard for me to parse, so I made this formatted list, with links and current prices (in USD via Amazon):


Component | Item | Price
---|---|---
motor | Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6364-190kv Brushless Outrunner Motor | $176
motor speed controller | Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro 1/10 Brushless ESC with SMARTSENSE | $116
remote control | Spektrum 2322 DX2E 2-Channel DSMR Surface Radio System | $70
battery | Turnigy 5000mAh 6S 20C Lipo Pack | $50
battery charger | Tenergy TB6-B Balance Charger for NiMH/NiCD/Li-PO/Li-Fe Battery Packs + Power Supply | $58
deck | ??? | ?
trucks | Paris V2 180mm Longboard Trucks Black | $45
wheels | Orangatang Kegel 80mm 80a Orange Longboard Wheels Set of 4 | $60
motor gear | 16t pinion gear | ?
wheel gear | 36t drive wheel gear | ?
drive belt | ??? | ?
motor mount | welded motor mount | ?
| total price | $575


If you respond with links to the ? items I'll edit this and add them in.

it says 'sand spray grip'
both of these will work just fine, right?
( https://www.nhsfunfactory.com/9in-x-33in-bigfoot-sheet ) ( https://www.amazon.com/Mob-Skateboard-Grip-Sheet-BUBBLE/dp/B002E0B2BK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491782033&sr=8-1&keywords=mob+griptape )

what you want is this

And I'll have you know that the lube Zealous uses is over $5 an oz, where as bones is probably cents.

US amazon zealous bearings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BL9VCRE/ref=twister_B075KPZQHF?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

edit : They also carry the bushings. There are hard, medium and soft.

Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/aiMaKE-Skateboard-Longboard-Guard-Black/dp/B06XGJ8PHM

Hey I bought it on amazon. Here’s the link:

https://www.amazon.com/Max-Pro-Skateboard-Protector-Longboard-Protection/dp/B077CQBC33/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=longboard+guard&qid=1550619680&s=gateway&sr=8-3

amazon has some ~8 dollar skateboard/longboard nose/tail guards.

​

Edit: Amazon Nose Guard

I ordered both last week. Wowgo shipped within two days, nothing yet on the Meepo (as expected). I've also emailed with both, and Kieran has better english than Jason, they are not the same guy. Jason claims Wowgo is using the same components as the current meepo with two exceptions. Wowgo is using shielded bearings to help with water resistance (https://www.amazon.com/Skateboard-Bearings-Double-Shielded-Silver/dp/B002BBGTK6), and Wowgo batteries are reportedly from the "same supplier" but a "bigger factory" than Meepo's batteries (Samsung cells). Same warranty.

Jason said he did a range test on a Wowgo and got 16.5 miles and he weighs 150lbs. Obviously these range tests vary wildly based on about a million factors, but that's what he said.

So that's all I know at the moment. If everything else is equal, I would order a Wowgo just for the shipping time, but there is no definite answer on if they really are the same yet or not, only speculation. A friend of mine is going to buy my Meepo when it comes so I don't plan on owning both, but I should still be able to compare them.

Edit: Jason from Wowgo also said they would be raising their prices, so I assume both boards will be more expensive eventually. The Meepo has had several price increases since launch.

Standard zealous bearings :
https://www.amazon.com/Zealous-Bearings-Longboards-Skateboards/dp/B00BL9VCRE

This is what you want. I actually made my own and it wasn't hard at all. This guide is what I used.

If you want it to be more grippy, you can try Skateboard grip tape.

I getting some grip tape this weekend, just wondering if this tape would work for cruising/light DH.

Magnets: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1276305

Bearings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBGTK6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s one of these

Longboard wheels but https://www.amazon.com/MBS-All-Terrain-Longboard-Wheels/dp/B074G95LP5

here

Here’s a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002E0B2BK?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

https://www.amazon.com/Circle-Pad-Cover-Nintendo-Accessory-Inport/dp/B00C1XYUY6

this is the sort of cover I was speaking of.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002E0B2BK

this kind of grip tape.

I'd just pick this one up. Bones Skate Bearings Cleaning Unit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GL232G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5kVavb16MKSTB

oh no, I use a bash guard similar to these to protect the ends when i pick it up or drag it

Yeah, I'm just going to buy new ones. Never heard of Zealous before. So I just toss these (https://www.amazon.com/Zealous-Bearings-Longboards-Skateboards/dp/B00BL9VCRE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502134439&sr=8-1&keywords=zealous+bearings) in the wheels and screw the wheel on and that's it? No need for the inner or out washers or anything??

[SELL]
Meepo 1.5 (less than 100 miles), comes with:

[ShredLights]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KWYZZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Costed $44.99

Nose and tail guard Costed $13.99

[Red tail light] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Costed $18.37

[Longboard Tool] (https://i.imgur.com/adtDPzF.jpg)

[Extra trucks and screws from the recall] (https://i.imgur.com/MAcuYoi.jpg)

[Remote (no wrist strap, sorry)] (https://i.imgur.com/Wao1vfJ.jpg)

[Charger] (https://i.imgur.com/yolnbbV.jpg)

[Wall mount + 4 screws] (https://i.imgur.com/8yOyrHq.jpg)

I'm in the Bay Area (Mountain View). $450 OBO