Reddit mentions: The best ski & snowboard tuning equipment

I just taped a this big guy last night. It mostly went well but there is a chunk missing out of that center that came up during taping. So it definitely happens. It's not to bad though. I haven't flipped him over yet. I wasn't prepared and he's to large to flip easily. I had to go to home depot and buy some larger boards to put him on to prepare to flip him. Once he's flipped it wont be to hard to bring the template back up and replace the missing beads.

The ones you've made look great! I have no idea what the one in the top left is from, but I love it.

A couple of suggestions for melting:

• Do not melt them on the boards, but it seems you've learned that with the tape method. The warped boards are awful for making larger projects, the beads don't line up correctly.
  
• This is one of the best pieces of advice I can think of if you are going to display these somewhere. Decide which direction you are going to want the final product to face. Put the tape on that side, and flip it over. On the side that you aren't going to see, feel free to melt the beads a little more intensely than the other. Don't worry as much if the beads fuse a little more than you'd like. This side isn't going to be seen and will help hold it together much better. Once it's ironed, flip it over, remove the tape and lightly fuse the visible side. When you are taping the visible side, if the beads feel to loose, flip it back over (use tape again if you need) and melt more it on the non-visible side.
  
• If you're going to make a lot of these, I would suggest buying a snowboard waxing iron, like this one. The iron is flat with no point, but its easy to use the corner of if you do need a point. I found this to work a lot better than a normal clothes iron.
  
• If you're melting large ones, iron it in sections. As you iron, the sections will start to cool. As they cool they will start to curl. Put something heavy on those sections (I use my old college textbooks, yay for being useful again!). If the curling is bad, go over it with the iron briefly to warm it up and continue putting heavy things on it. The curling can be especially bad if you have only one side of it ironed. As you iron the other side the it will 'curl' both direction and be more flat.
  
  Three more non-melting tips.
  
  
• To make my templates I take the sprite image into GIMP and I use the color select tool to break the image apart into multiple layers. One color per layer. Then I decide which bead color looks best for each layer. Next I put guidelines on the image to separate it into different 29x29 pixel squares for the different boards. I usually build my beads one board at a time instead of the project as a whole. Then as I'm putting the beads down, I make all the layers invisible. I start with the black layer and put those beads down on the board. Then I make each color visible one at a time and place those beads down.
  
• If you want more boards. I suggest the craft store Jo-Ann. They frequently have perler products on sale for 40% off. And if you download their app you can frequently get coupons for 40-70% off. I've bought most of my boards on the times I've gotten coupons so I haven't spent a lot on them. They have good deals on beads as well but see below for my advice on beads.
  
• Think ahead on the projects you may want to make and buy in bulk from the Perler website. If you buy 6+ bags they are only $2 a bag, but their shipping is a bit pricey. If you buy $60 worth of beads you get free shipping! In addition, if you subscribe to their email list, they will frequently go on holiday/misc sales and you can get an additional 20-30% off. This might be a little overkill but I went ahead and made templates for my next 29 projects to complete my summoner/summon/villain from each game goal while I waited for a sale. I counted all of the beads of each color and the total was around 120,000 beads (NeoBahamut was about 8,800 beads). Buying in bulk this way I spent about $1.50 a bag (though I did buy a couple of the 6000 bead black bags from Jo-Ann with coupons).
  
  Wow. that ended up being a wall of text. I did not intend for that, but I just kept writing. Hopefully it's all useful information for you. If not, sorry for the ramble.
  
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Here's a comment I posted a month or two ago about this topic. Basically everything you'd need to wax, sharpen edges, and perform small-medium ptex repairs (think small core shots and scratches on the base of the ski).

Here's a kit I would go with if I were buying a kit. I personally liked buying stuff individually that suited my needs but it's easier to just buy 1 thing: https://www.amazon.com/Demon-Complete-Tune-Kit-Wax/dp/B00MAKO69O/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1478189719&sr=1-1&keywords=ski+wax+kit

The reason why I'd go with this kit over the ones you listed is because it comes with an edge sharpener guide + gummy stone. If you're sharpening edges you'd probably want to use a file&guide when starting out.


For waxing (normally use all temp wax unless you're an every week sort of waxer. Could expand out to cold specific wax if the weather calls for it):

Plastic Scrapper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GSLE2FO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wax: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GAYNXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Iron: buy one at goodwill/a thrift. If you're too good for that then here: https://www.amazon.com/Wintersteiger-Ski-Snowboard-Waxing-Iron/dp/B0040OBXXU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476214415&sr=8-1&keywords=waxing+iron

You can also buy a nylon brush and base cleaner/a rag to clean your skis but hot waxing and then scrapping also works for cleaning.

When I'm done waxing my skis I usually go over the skis with a wine cork to make sure everything is even and smoooooth. Not something that you have to do though

For tuning:

Gummy Stone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017I6VNO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edge sharpener (can choose a different one):

https://www.amazon.com/Dakine-8-2300250-Green-Tuner-Green/dp/B00L6ZC1FA/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1476214569&sr=1-4&keywords=ski+edge+sharpener

Video so you don't fuck up your edges too much:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKpSBE8YWXk

You can also get a diamond stone/nail file from the store if you'd like.

Ptex for some base repairs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OIPZRVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Metal Scrapper for Ptex (could use a flat blade if you'd like but don't fuck up):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OIPZRII/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lighter: Gas Station/already in your house. After Ptexing a couple of times I fee like a torch lighter would work best here


Video for small ptex repair:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NA0vDNmNAEA

If you have major core shots I would probably go to a local shop and have someone fix it who does that stuff for a living. Really research what you're actually doing before you do it for the first time. You don't want to make things worse. After you get the hang of it it becomes a lot easier and can save you money. Can also do it for your friends on the cheap

I've been waxing my own snowboard for quite some time. I read an article on it a very long time ago, so my methods might not be good, but here goes.

Take off your bindings before starting.

First, i use an edge sharpener, rather than a straight file (like i see in board shops). Run that along your edges first, removing any rust.

Next, i take out my wax scraper, and scrape off as much old wax as i can. I am always surprised how much comes off.

When you are done scraping, clean your board. Use a special cleaner, or save your money and use something like Windex (that's what i do).

Next, you'll need wax and an iron. And old iron will do, or you can buy a dedicated waxing iron. I used to use an old iron, but then I left it in one spot for too long and messed up my board. If you plan to use an old iron, keep the temperature low on it. If your wax starts smoking, your iron is too hot. Be patient with it, spending a few extra minutes is better then having the spend hundreds of dollars replacing your board.

Take your wax, and hold it up against the iron to drip the melted wax onto the board and try to get good coverage. When you are done you should be looking at a board with a bunch of wax drops on it, not a solid layer of wax.

Now, take your iron and start moving it around the wax to spread it evenly across the board. You can add more wax as needed by dripping it on. Don't hold the iron in one spot for long, keep moving around.

Once you have all the wax spread in a uniform layer, let it cool back down to room temperature. Once it's cool (not warm) take your scraper and scrape off all the wax. What you want to be left on you board is just a thin layer. When you touch it with your hand, it should feel very smooth.

This is where I stop, but some people like to polish it further using some kind of cloth. I might use an old tubesock to just give it a quick rub down.

Put your bindings back on, and enjoy.

I bought a “North” kit on amazon for like $85 last year. Came with the iron, scraper, nylon brush, diamond stone, edge sharpener, and a brick of wax. Pretty good deal and comes with a nice carry bag. I also went to dollar general and bought a plastic shower curtain to put down when I wax for like $2 saves on cleanup

Swix North Ski Snowboard Wax Tuning Kit Mass Transit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVXWDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7eQDb2B8BPEM

Do you actually mean tune or just wax? I do both and for the vast majority of the time here's the procedure for waxing:

• secure brakes with rubber band
  
• secure ski to workbench I use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I4S1X6/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which does both.
  
• wipe base, normally I just use rubbing alcohol.
  
• drip wax
  
• iron in
  
• let cool, ideally at an indoor temperature
  
• scrape
  
• go ski
  
  Everyone that skis more than ~10 days/year should do that. For me it's cheaper and quicker than taking them to a shop. And more fun.
  
  Lots of people will talk about brushing and more complicated waxing. It's all worthwhile, for the first and only the first run. After that run, it stops mattering really quickly. Many people don't even scrape or give a really half assed scrape and let the snow take care of it. If you've fallen with exposed skin, you know how abrasive snow can be.
  
  As needed I'll debur and remove rust with a gummy stone. If you take care of your edges, you'll only need an actual tune every 10-20 days. This is more tricky than hard, and you can easily make a mistake by setting the wrong bevel, or taking too much off.

If you have a bench set up and want to be able to really keep them sharp get a file guide. I like the beast. It does take a little knowledge and diligence to use.

https://www.beasttuning.com/Side-of-BEAST-p/3002z.htm

If not and you just want a fool proof way of improving your edges and maintaining them between shop tunes get an EZ-Tuner.

Complete Edge Care Kit Base-Side Ski Edge Tool +3 Diamonds +Gumi Stone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G3YV2HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8XV2DbNQVNZC0


Do not mess with the base edge.

If you source the pieces yourself you can get what you need. You usually don't need everything that comes in a kit. Buy the additional pieces as you need them.

Here's what I found without much effort:

$35 iron

$23 wax (huge brick)

$6 scraper

$14 nylon brush

$6 scotch brite sponges

That's $84 and is all you need to get started. You can certainly get kits for around the same price that include some edge tuning bits, but they also come with a very small amount of wax and surprisingly often they don't include any brushes, or just a wire brush.

If you’re a skier then I’d say stick with starting with skiing with your son. They make harnesses for learning how to ski like this that might be useful for you: https://www.amazon.com/MDXONE-Trainer-Harness-Absorb-bungees/dp/B07J1XKQBZ/

looks like he/she is using a break retainer band. You can find them on amazon and such. Here’s a link

Just bought this kit off amazon and I'm going to be waxing my own skis for the first time in preparation for epic Tahoe pow this weekend. I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos. Any tips from r/skiing?

I dunno how much you’re trying to spend but I have been please with this kit. Might be overkill tho.

Demon Hyper Speed Ski & Snowboard Tune Kit with Iron, 1lb Wax Block & Base Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9DQ331/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7EXwDbV1RYFTT

Here's the same kind of thing but DaKine, it's on .ca https://www.amazon.ca/Dakine-110V-Super-Tune-Black/dp/B005Z2JKGI/ref=pd_sim_200_12?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FFN1N79WG96N85F3BDJH

just get the clamp board holders and clamp em to what evs. You can get em at your local ski/board shop, i urge you to go there vs the interweb. you can always scrape your board out side or at the resort parking lot.

Does anyone sharpen/wax their own board? I know you can get kits like these but I don't know how easy it is to totally screw up your snowboard. The place I used to bring mine to closed and there's not much else around where I live.