replying /u/Peter_789 question on which 4 ingredients i would pick from his list


My 4 picks are Astaxanthin, Soy Extracts/genistein, Grape Seed Extract, Green Tea Extract
If Grape seed extract is not found, replace with resvertrol

Since you are already using Vitamin A B3 C E.Just supplement withthe 4 above as barebones minimum




***
Must haves from each category, based on your list

Carotenoids

• Astaxanthin
  
  proven to prevent oxidative damage to skin after exposure to UVA radiation
  
  source:nauraldatabase.com
  
  
  

  Flavonoids / Phenolic compounds
  

  
  

• Soy Extracts (phospholipids, daidzein, genistein, biochanin A etc)
  
  Multi-purpose. Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-aging and safe.
  studies on mouse skin have shown that topical application of soy milk and other soy compounds has a protective effect against UVB Light damage. No conclusive evidence if the benefits translate to human skin. Oncolofy Research, vol 14, num 7/8 2004, p 387-397. and Photodermatologt, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine April 2003, p.56.
  
  Also good for anti-aging
  Genistein has a collagen-stimulating effect
  
  
• Grape Seed Extract
  
  Contains proanthocyanidin, which are very potent antioxidants helpful for diminishing the sun's damaging effects and lessening the free-radical damage. Source: Current Pharmaceutical Biotechology, June 2001, p 187-200 + Toxicology August 2000, p 187-197. There is no difference in the antioxidant potential among different types of grapes. Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry April 2000, p 1076-1080
  
  
• Green Tea extract or white tea extract EGCG
  
  Studies conducted on human skin have demonstrated that green tea polyphenols GTP prevent UVB...induced immune suppresion and skin cancer induction.Source: Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology Dec 31 2001
  
  EGCG, an extact of tea can prevent collagen breakdown and reduce UV damage to skin Source: Journal of Dematological Science Dec 2005, 195-204
  
  

  Antioxidants
  

  there are hundreds of antioxidants source: Journal of Medicine Food June 2007, p 337-344; Cellular and Molecular Biology Apr 2007 p 1-2, Cosmetic Dermatology Dec 2001 p 37-40; Current Opinion of Investigational Drug May 2007, p. 814-817; Journal of pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis Feb 23 2005, p 2870295
  
  

• Vitamin A, B3, C
  
  ***
  did not pick
  
  

• Ellagic -
  
  little research showing efficacy on skin, better to consume this.
  
  
• Turmeric -
  
  potent but potentially irritating (quoting Paula's Choice book p 1160)
  
  
• Pycnogenol -
  
  patented to Horphag Research Ltd (unsure if patent still valid)
  
  
  
• Resveratrol
  
  one of the most potent natural chemoprotective agent inhibiting the cellular processes associated with tumour development including initiation, promotion and progression.
  similar to grape seed extract same family - Anthocyanins
  
  
  
• Alpha-Lipoic Acid
  
  enzyme that is a good antioxidant. Most of the studies done were in vitro (test tube). How this translates to human skin is unknown since none were carried on people, double-blind or placebo-controlled to evaluate the effectiveness. In vitro test try to mimic human skin but is not the same as a living skin.
  
  
• Caffeine - known for treating cellulite and puffy eyes. Limited information on its antioxidant properties.
  
  
• Q10 Coenzyme - PC's book says p 1089 that it is one of the many helpful antioxidants for skin but it is not the only one, or the best
  source Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology March 2006 p.30-38 & Biofactors 2003, p 289-297
  
  
• Ergthioneine - animal tissue that has antioxidant properties. ew no to animal parts.
  
  
• Glutathione
  potent antioxidant
  source: Free Radical Research March 2002, p 329-340
  
  
• Superoxide Dismutase
  
  Enzyme considered to be potent antioxidant in human skin
  
  
  ***
  
  Osmolites and DNA repair enzymes
  
• i rarely see this category and i already use EGF daily.
  
  
  
  ***
  PS: I referred to Paula's Choice book Don't go to the Cosmetics counter without me 7th edition, with research that is probably 10 years old... They only printed it on 2012. I suppose it is out of print now. have not done all the research. it was a big arse job to research that loooooong list of actives. call this work in progress.

There are definitely differences in skin between racial groups. Asian skin isn't an area of focus for me so I don't have any links to specific research, books, etc. Search Google Scholar, Pub Med and your local library.

It's not exactly what you're looking for but I really like Beautiful Skin of Color: A Comprehensive Guide to Asian, Olive, and Dark Skin. It's written by dermatologists and focuses on caring for skin of color. Check out Amazon for similar books that are focused on Asian skin.

This book which was written by a dermatologist was enlightening for me. My take-home message from it was that there are only a few ingredients that have been proven to reduce aging in skin, as determined by peer-reviewed science rather than in-house studies by cosmetics companies. From what I remember, that short list includes:

• glycerin
  
• retinol
  
• hyalauronic acid
  
  There are a lot of other ingredients which may or may not reduce aging, but these listed are, from what I understand, the ones with a proven track record.
  
  *The book was recommended to me by someone who works in cosmetics development and the author is a Prof. and MD, and runs the only University-based, independent research center in the US which studies skin care and cosmetics. The short list above is just what I remember from the book - if you don't want to buy it you can probably find review papers written by her or researchers at that center.

In my early days of skin care, I read a lot of Paula Begoun. Now, some of her stuff is a bit iffy (witch hazel is a poor antioxidant, etc.) but others are spot on (jars are a bad way to store retinols or antioxidants).

I picked up this book when I was starting off and I felt it gave me a lot of good, foundational information. From there, I fleshed out my knowledge via the Internet and valuable sources like PubMed and serious skincare boards.

I modified a recipe from The Essential Guide to Natural Skin Care.

http://amazon.com/Facebuilder-Men-Carole-Maggio/dp/0399527842/

She's a dermatologist so I hope that's "scientific enough" for you:

http://www.amazon.com/DERMAdoctor-Skinstruction-Manual-Healthy-Beautiful/dp/0743264991

The fact is tea contains tannins which do scientifically reduce irritation and there by minimize it's effects- such as puffiness and dark circles. It's not my "opinion"... feel free to google...

http://www.amazon.com/Dont-Go-Cosmetics-Counter-Without/dp/1877988359/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416839363&sr=1-1&keywords=don%27t+go+to+the+cosmetics+counter+without+me

Start with this book.

Pores like that are normal. They even fill up with gunk (SFs), which is good for protection against the elements and bacteria. Biore strips are a little extreme (my skin always felt traumatized afterward, but then again I'm female and I think females have thinner skin) -- there are other ways to control SFs including chemical exfoliation, and prescription retinoids to control sebum production and shedding of skin (which contributes keratin to the SFs).

Also, you may have patulous pores, which is when the collagen and elastin (proteins that give your skin structure) in the area of your pores are degraded due to UV damage or natural aging. Remedies: wear broad-spectrum sunscreen for prevention, get prescription retinoids or laser/microdermabrasion/chemical peels (check with a dermatologist for these more serious procedures) to rebuild collagen.

Source: book written by a dermatologist.

Also, massaging with olive oil helps me get out the harder gunk, which I consider blackheads instead of normal SFs.

I did have this during chemo, but when my hands were cracking because I'd put them through hell doing dishes in hot water for days when our dishwasher broke, I would put a mix of aloe vera, rose hip seed oil and vaseline on my hands and put socks over them. It seemed to really help.

Aloe Vera gel is a good place to start as it's really gentle. Also for skin issues related to cancer treatment this is a really good book. It's written by a dermatologist who specializes in cancer treatment related skin issues, and its written for patients to read, and it's well written and easy to understand.

He mentions in the book that sometimes patients have skin issues that are so bad that they end up having to stop treatment. If she's in New York City she can go see him at Memorial Sloan Kettering and he can recommend things that might help her skin. He has seen it all regarding skin issues and cancer.

https://www.amazon.com/Lacoutures-Guide-People-Living-Cancer/dp/0615452264