Reddit mentions: The best small animal food

We found 563 Reddit comments discussing the best small animal food. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 85 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

11. Higgins Sunburst Gourmet Food Mix For Hamsters And Gerbils

Naturally PreservedEnriched With DhaDigestive ProbioticsNatural Colors
Higgins Sunburst Gourmet Food Mix For Hamsters And Gerbils
Specs:
Height8 Inches
Length0.02 Inches
Number of items1
Size2.5 Pound (Pack of 1)
Weight1 Pounds
Width0.02 Inches
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12. Oxbow Cavy Performance Young Guinea Pig (Alfalfa Based), 5-Pound Bag

Contains 1- 5Lb BagComplete Feed For Adult Guinea PigsLower In Protein, Calories And Calcium
Oxbow Cavy Performance Young Guinea Pig (Alfalfa Based), 5-Pound Bag
Specs:
ColorMulti-colored
Height8.267716527 Inches
Length11.81102361 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateSeptember 2013
Size5 Pound (Pack of 1)
Weight5 Pounds
Width2.362204722 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on small animal food

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where small animal food are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 1,435
Number of comments: 359
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Number of comments: 3
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Top Reddit comments about Small Animal Food:

u/DinkaAnimalLover · 4 pointsr/Rabbits

I am happy to try to help you, but I won't sugar coat it - the way these bunnies are being cared for is unacceptable. You need to educate your mom - if she won't listen you have to rehome the bunnies or assume 100% of the responsibility for their care daily... sorry but no matter you mom's needs or health, it is not fair to the bunnies - they can't help themselves at all, unlike your mom. She is slowly killing them right now.

  1. You need to limit their pellets - specifically no more than 1/4 cup of pellets per day per bunny! That is 4 tablespoons! OK? STAND YOUR GROUND AND EDUCATE YOU MOTHER on this to make sure the understands.
  2. You need to change the brand of their pellets - Purina are horrible! They are alfalfa based an not appropriate for adult rabbits!
    1. Don't switch abruptly. Immediately reduce the quantity to 4 tablespoon per day max, over a week mix in more and more of the new bran until you are 100% giving new. Tummies need to adopt.
    2. It doesn't matter if you have a lot of the old brand left over - donate to a rabbit rescue for the young bunnies (not adults) or throw it out. DO NOT FEED PURINA!
  3. If hay is alfalfa immediately discontinue and get timothy - they should NOT have an alfalfa in their diet!

    ​

    The correct diet for an adult bunny is - UNLIMITED hay, 1/4 cup MAX of plain pellets per day (not colorful bits or seed in them), 1 to 2 cups of green leafy veggies. Carrot, kale, and fruit only as occasional very small treats. No yogurt drops or processed sugars, seed nuts, or carbs.

    Based on this and detail below make immediate changes!

  4. Unlimited hay - good quality unlimited hay should always be available. Grass is good, but done not replace hay.
    1. Often overfeeding pellets and greens and treats will result in a bunny not eating hay, so following proportion above is critical.
    2. Hey should be timothy or orchard. Never alfalfa - alfalfa is to rich for an adult and also causes kidney stones.
  5. Pellets - 1/4th cup per day MAX - that is 4 tablespoons! Stand your ground!
    1. In fact if she is overweight, it is OK to go on a no pellets diet or reduce the portion further for a while till the weight is back to desired.
    2. Again overfeeding pellets even a tiny bit results in less hay consumption - not good
    3. Pellets should not be alfalfa - look at the ingredients, if alfalfa is first or second, you have to change the brand.
    4. Also a good brand is very important - pellets should be PLAIN without any of the colorful bits like treats, dried fruit, cereals, nuts and seeds. All these for bunnies are like junk food to humans (yes pet stores 100% don't care and just sell the stuff that looks the best to unsuspecting customers) and excess sugar and carbs can cause major issues for bunny's very delicate digestive system by disrupting the bacteria balance and also cause weight gain. Try to select the pellet brand higher is fiber and lower in protein and fat. Look at the ingredients and select a product that has hay/grass listed at the very top of the list and has as few other ingredients (such as oats, cereals, meals, flour, soy, etc) as possible. All of these are "extra" additives that fill up the space in bunny's tummy and result in less hay consumption also.
      1. http://www.therabbithouse.com/diet/rabbit-food-comparison.asp - brand comparison here to select the brands that fit the parameters the best (note that fat should only be 1.5% to 2% for a normal bun, not 5% like they specify).
      2. https://www.farmerdavepetsupply.com/search/?q=pellets - these are quite good for weight loss as they are just hay
      3. https://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Adult-Rabbit-Garden-Select/dp/B06XX68LM2 - good selection also for healthy weight
      4. https://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Animal-Health-Essentials-Food-10lbs/dp/B003SLLF48/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1538070583&sr=1-2&keywords=oxbow%2Brabbit%2Bfood&th=1- these are quite good, easy to find and used a lot of people
      5. https://shop.smallpetselect.com/collections/pelleted-food-for-rabbits - also very fresh great pellets
    5. Greens - 1 to 2 cups per day (or 1 to 2 platefuls) - do not overfeed
      1. Selecting the right greens is key - greens should be green, as for example some veggies like peppers and carrots are high in sugar and should only be given as small treats, not daily veggies.
      2. Try dark leafy greens like arugula, romaine lettuce, spring mix, spinach, celery, carrot greens, bok choy; also, fresh herbs like parsley, cilantro, oregano, dill, mint, basil. Kale (only give in limited quantities).
      3. The best way it to rotate veggies from day to day so the bunny gets a variety of nutrients.
      4. This list has great insights https://rabbit.org/suggested-vegetables-and-fruits-for-a-rabbit-diet/.
    6. Treats - if the bunny is overweight it is best to avoid giving treats for a while....
      1. Treats should be small potions and occasional, not with every meal ---->>> fruit + carrot is a treat so give in small amounts - about 2 thumbs width of banana is one portion, a couple raspberries or blueberries, 1 mid sized strawberry, one larger grape, 1 baby carrot, etc. if you give dried fruit - give less at the concentration of sugar is higher.
      2. Never give any processed foods like yogurt drops
      3. For a bunny who is overweight it is best to stick to healthy treats and give very limited - instead of fruit a pellet or two can be used a treat, a sprig of fresh herb, some dried herbal blends like here

        _______________

        As you implement this, get a kitchen scale and weight the bun weekly and record progress.

        http://www.therabbithouse.com/diet/rabbit-weight.asp - this visual guide may help determine when the bun reaches a more desired weight.

        Overall, it's best to check with a vet on what a healthy weight for your bun is.

        _______________

        Toys:

        The other thing is increasing activity - this really goes a long way too.

        Try to feed her pellets via a treat ball to encourage more movement and make them eat slower. They usually like that.

        Also various cardboard castles, ramps, and tunnels to explore will help to increase activity. Take a look here for ideas.

        Rabbits are food motivated so use the treat ball I shared to give the pellets and they will play and get the good toys I suggested - you can use their favorite greens to lead them to the toys and reward playing with them - build positive associations.

        ​

        Teach both bunnies tricks like here - it is a great way to get them more active and to bond with them https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ke5N3tGLT_A

        ​

        ________________

        Bonding with rabbits and behavior

        Are both rabbits fixed - neutered/spayed? If not you MUST do this! This should be your top priority after fixing their diet. Please see my guide for details on why and how to get this done!

        To build a bond with them: Do the things below and I promise you will see progress.

        What works best with bunnies is always always letting them come to you instead of you going to them... silly as it is, that is what makes them feel most secure around anyone who is trying to bond with them. The best way to encourage them to do this is another silly thing - get on the floor. Literally just sprawl out and do your own thing and wait for him to come and explore you (I promise he will if you are patient). On the floor you are on his own level and you feel both safe and curious for them explore. Instead of kneeling down when you get close to him, get on all fours further away to sort of say - I am low I am safe, I will not pick you up, and then just kind of stay there and wait for him to come and explore you.

        I would honestly suggest trying to really focus for the next few week on spending lots of time on the floor with him when you are home. Anything you usually do just do it on the floor. The floor is their level and where they feel the safest and that is best for bonding. Sprawl out and let him hop all over you. Watch TV on the floor and lean against the sofa for comfort or even when you are on your laptop. Always let him come to you on his own terms when he feels safe, don't reach for him if you feel like he is not feeling safe in that moment (kind of anticipate his feelings)... some greens will help make you feel more inviting and attractive, and over time you will be able to pet him while he is eating, and then he will learn that humans mean yummies and they are safe and he will pop by for pets from you more often. :)

        Watch a couple videos below:

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3rlWno7B8g - great video

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS9HcoC19h4 - another good video
u/Floonet · 3 pointsr/RATS

I want to say thank you for being receptive to rattit's collective knowledge.

Definitely agree with all that was said by /u/durshka

To add to what has been said:

I'm not sure what country you are in, but in the US there are some great rat feeds. It's crucial you give them this, because rats will pick through seeds and take the carb/sugar loaded things over the protein vitamin stuff. (they are like people)

Oxbow is pretty standard and they look like this you do not want to get stuff like this as their main feed. They will pick through all the good bits (pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, peanuts, dried peas) and leave the fiber which they need. I do have a bag of this and use it as treats!

PLENTY OF FRESH VEG! also remember to wash the veg and fruit off well if you are going non-organic. Pesticides are truly harmful especially to rats which in comparison to us are TINY!

Give them a bit of chicken or tuna etc from time to time. I usually share what I'm eating with them if it's healthy.

Another good treat (and a good way to administer medicine if ever needed) is baby food. Mine love the sweet potato, squash, peas one!

When picking out a cage try and get one with at least 2 floors. Meaning they can climb and have different areas. Rats are super smart, and need space to keep it interesting. Also make sure the flooring of the shelves and ramps is not wired steel, and that it has plating. The bottom can be as long as you have enough bedding on the bottom. Rats can get bumblefoot from wired flooring.

A CAGE LIKE THIS IS IDEAL it's tall rather than wide, which they love!

u/dottieblue · 3 pointsr/RATS

Hi there. Congratulations on your new boys! I love Rex rats! I've been a ratty mom for over 12 years. I currently have 3 males, all dumbos, one of which is a Rex. The best advice I can give is to make sure to socialize your new babies and let them get used to you, your environment, as well as each other. (I'm glad to hear you got more than one!) Pouches are a great start for that, so you are definitely on the right track. I love playing around and interacting with my boys, but I also make sure to sit back and let them explore on their own, too.

Having a good cage is crucial. I recently got space pods and they love them! Having it be plastic instead of fabric cuts down on smell, too. I always make sure they have a bunch of things to chew on and play with. Make sure they have good bedding as well. I use recycled newspaper and crinkle paper.

Diet plays a big role. I feed my guys mostly Mazuri blocks and Oxbow with some vegetables (they love broccoli and frozen peas). I try to stay cognizant of treats, since they're mostly sugar and fat. (Males are prone to weight gain, so you gotta watch out.) Fruits work really well as a treat for training.

If you have any questions as you guys get adjusted, feel free to PM me.

(Also, sorry all the hyperlinks are to Amazon haha. It's what Google pulls up.)

Congratulations again :)

u/llamagish · 3 pointsr/guineapigs

Great, thank you for being such a good person and taking him in, that's a very admirable thing to do!

You seem to be intelligent and you're probably doing your own research. Good job on trying to find him a friend, I cannot stress how important that is, as you've probably read online.

The scared phase is typically just a phase in the beginning. He's in a new environment and he's afraid. Guinea pigs are prey, it's only natural for them to jump and run the second they see movement they're non-familiarized with.. even when it is familiar, they're not the brightest creatures in the world and can still overreact to slight movements. After this scared phase, which can really last from a couple days to a month, it depends on their personality. Some piggies can be chill and start wheeking whenever they see their owners, and others will simply run from them for the rest of their lives, even though they enjoy being cuddled once you finally get them in your hands. It's simply something you're going to have to go through, and don't take their fearfulness personally :)

What kind of dry food are you getting him, and what kind of hay? What type of water holder do you have? He may be unfamiliar with it. Keep giving him lettuce (not iceburg) if he'll eat it, but not too too much. 1 baby carrot a day and a little bit of green pepper should do the trick as well. Piggies are supposed to have a little salad every day. Here's a fantastic guide to what they can have and what quantities is recommended.

Regarding his bedding, the only way he'll stop being afraid of you is to see that there's nothing to be afraid of. It's okay to scare him, since he'll eventually learn that there's no reason to be scared. Just clean around him and provide him a little treat like a carrot and he'll eventually come around. My piggies run from me whenever I clean their cage, it's just apart of owning them.

I don't know if there will ever be a point where a piggie can "trust" you. I don't think they're capable of trust, though some have very relaxed personalities compared to others. Like I said, they're prey. They're built to not trust you. You can start touching and holding him whenever you'd like, though you know your piggie better than we do. If he's truly so afraid of you that you don't want to hold him, don't. If you think it's time, go for it, he'll run, but just grab his butt and give him a nice cuddle session. Don't wear any clothes you're fond of :)

Whats most important is that you get him a friend, a large cage (2x3 minimum for 2), and understand how to properly feed them. I highly recommend purchasing this hay (I know it may seem like 10lbs is a lot since your little guy is hardly eating, but you'll be shocked to see how much they eat normally), these pellets (I assume he's under 6 months old), and using these kind of water bottles. I also recommend buying fleece bedding, as you will save money and time cleaning in the long run.

Let me know if you have more questions!

u/Virixiss · 1 pointr/RATS

Howdy! First off, let me thank you for doing research before you pick up your rodent friend.

First off let me get the disclaimers out of the way: If you were looking for a cheap pet, you have chosen the wrong animal. Rats have a fairly high upfront cost that begins to taper down after the first 3 months or so once the major growth period is over with. Almost any attempt to cut costs on things I'll bring up as essentials is most likely going to end up as a bad move in terms of your pet's health. There are lots of places to save some money, but what I'll lay out here is not the place. Rats are also a very short lived pet. They will live for a reasonable maximum of 3 years, so there will be heartbreak down the road.

Still interested? Good. Let's get a list going then:

  1. Rats must be kept in a group. A pair is the minimum, three or more is better. Rats are VERY social animals, and need near constant interaction for other rats to stay healthy. This isn't just about mental health either; a lone rat is more prone to infections, tumors, and mental disabilities including aggression. Keeping multiple rats is no more expensive than keeping a single rat.

  2. When looking for a cage, aim for 2 sq. feet per rat. Use this cage calculator to see if your cage is big enough. Watch your bar spacing! Rats are master escape artists, so make sure that the bars won't bend, and that you have 1/2" inch bar spacing or less. Popular starter cages include the Critter Nation Single or the Prevue Hendryx Rat/Chinchilla Cage. The Critter Nation is the most popular rat cage by far, but I can vouch for the Prevue Hendryx as easy to clean and set up.

  3. Food can get pretty complicated for a first time owner, so I'll just offer easy suggestions. Feed Mazuri , Native Earth , or Oxbow. Oxbow is the most popular and most balanced, but tends to be the most expensive in smaller bags. In bulk, (20+ pound bags) the price is all about the same. I buy large bags because it's cheaper per pound and I never worry about running out. Then again I have 5 rats, so my situation is different than yours!

  4. Lots of toys and hiding places! This is where you can save money by getting creative. Store bought rat toys can get expensive, but cardboard tubes and boxes are often free! Have one hiding place per rat plus one, preferably on different levels of the cage. Hammocks are a favorite hide for rats, as are boxes, bags, and tubes. If you want to get some store bought stuff, see if you have a bird shop in your area. Almost every toy in there that is safe for birds is going to be a blast for your rats.

  5. Find a vet that is comfortable with rats. Rats don't need shots or regular flea treatments, so finding a vet can seem odd. But eventually, something will go wrong, or one of your babies will fall ill. Having a vet who's experienced with rats or at the very least willing to learn is a godsend. I'm very lucky to have a vet that is familiar with and loves rats. Because of their size and common problems, rat visits are usually very cheap when compared to a dog or a cat. I spend no more than $45 when Juniper or Sugar have a myco flareup.

  6. Don't stop researching. Subscribe to this sub. Check the side bar. Ask questions. (Feel free to PM me, I'll help you as much as I can..) Watch videos on YouTube, like The Rat Guru. Rats are a very "addictive" pet, and it's easy to fall into an obsession with the cute little boogers.

  7. Post pictures when you get them.
u/nthny · 4 pointsr/RATS

Rats are wonderful little companions, and fairly easy to care for. Keep them happy and healthy, and they'll repay you by loving you like crazy.

This is a good guide that will help you understand what your rats are doing and why, and explains some of the ways rats communicate with each other and with you.

Here's a list of foods that are safe to give to your rats. Enriching your rats' diet with fresh fruits and vegetables is important to their health, and they love it. If you buy packaged treats from the store, make sure you get one that doesn't contain dried corn, as that can be harmful.

For their food, I recommend Oxbow brand. It's very good nutritionally, and my girls love the taste. For two rats, one bag will usually last several weeks.

For their cage, you'll want something that gives them plenty of space to go about their business. Generally, the rule is 2 cubic feet per rat. So for two, try to find something that's at least 4 cubic feet. Use paper bedding as opposed to wood shavings, as wood shavings can cause respiratory problems.

You should also get some accessories for the cage to keep them entertained, such as a house, a hammock, things to climb, and some toys. All can be found at most pet stores and is pretty inexpensive.

If you decide to go for it, I think you'll be very happy with rats. And if you do, be sure to share a picture of your new babies with us here!