Reddit mentions: The best small animal supplies
We found 2,492 Reddit comments discussing the best small animal supplies. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 638 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. MidWest Deluxe Critter Nation Double Unit Small Animal Cage (Model 162)
- Includes 2 pans, 2 adjustable shelves, 3 plastic ramps with covers & easily maneuverable stand with 4 locking wheel casters
- Full-width double doors on critter nation small animal cage and removable shelf provide maximum accessibility for easy cleaning & feeding
- Critter Nation's wide expanse shelves & full width leak proof pans provide maximized play area & prevent dangerous falls
- Great for Rats, Chinchillas, Dagus, Ferrets, tubing (corners) 0.6 inches square & 1/2 " horizontal wire spacing allow pets to fulfill their instinct to climb & explore in a secure environment
- Dimensions: 36" L x 24" W x 63" H
Features:
Specs:
Color | Gray Quartz |
Height | 63 Inches |
Length | 36 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Two Story |
Weight | 109 Pounds |
Width | 24 Inches |
2. Lixit Critter Space Pod, Perfect for Small Animals, Large
- JUST THE RIGHT SIZE: Our large size Critter Space Pod is the perfect size for rats, baby ferrets, chinchillas, sugar gliders, and other small animals
- TWO WAYS: The space pods can be hung from the top of a wire case, or turned over to sit on the bottom of a cage
- EASY TO CLEAN: Space pods come apart for easy cleaning so your pets' home will always be neat and tidy
- COLORFUL: The space pod will add a fun pop of color to your pets home
- COZY HIDEAWAY: A Space Pod will give your furry friend a unique and cozy spot to nestle
Features:
Specs:
Color | Mixed |
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 11 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Large |
Weight | 0.3 Pounds |
Width | 11 Inches |
3. Guinea Habitat Guinea Pig Cage by MidWest, 47L x 24W x 14H Inches
- Provides 8 square feet of living area for guinea pigs as recommended by veterinarians and breeders
- Durable, leak proof, washable and easily removable PVC lined canvas bottom allows for easy care and maintenance while providing traction and protection for Guinea Pig's sensitive feet; No divider panel included
- 14 inches high sides provide for secure and convenient access to guinea pigs; great for indoor or outdoor use
- Sets up in minutes, no tools required for assembly
Features:
Specs:
Color | White/ Teal |
Height | 14 Inches |
Length | 47 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 47"L x 24"W x 14"H |
Weight | 8.15 Pounds |
Width | 24 Inches |
4. MidWest Homes for Pets 182 Ferret Nation Double Story Unit, 1-Year Manufacturer Warranty
Your purchase includes One MidWest Homes for Pets 182 Ferret Nation Double Story Unit, 1-Year Manufacturer Warranty, 2 Adjustable Shelves, 2 Leak-Proof Pans, 3 Plastic Ramps and 3 Happy Feet Ramp CoversCage dimensions: 25” W x 63” H x 36” L | Space between bars: 1” | Weight: 107 lbs | Lower ...
Specs:
Color | Platinum Gray |
Height | 62.5 Inches |
Length | 36 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Two Story |
Weight | 93 Pounds |
Width | 25 Inches |
5. Guinea Habitat Plus Guinea Pig Cage by MidWest w/ Top Panel, 47L x 24W x 14H Inches
Provides 8 square feet of living area for guinea pigs as recommended by veterinarians and breeders; Assembled product dimensions (Lenght x Width x Height): 47 x 24 x 14 inchesFully removable wire mesh top to protect your guinea pig from predators; The multi access folding top and divider panel with ...
Specs:
Color | White/ Teal |
Height | 14 Inches |
Length | 47 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 47"L x 24"W x 14"H |
Weight | 12.5 Pounds |
Width | 24 Inches |
6. Kaytee My First Home 30 X 18 Multilevel Exotics
Ideal habitat for chinchillas, rats and exotic petsMultiple levels to climb and playDeep base to prevent messesEasy assembly for cleaningChew proof locks and wires for added safetyExtra narrow 1/2” wire spacingCage dimensions: 30.5” x 18” x 30”
Specs:
Color | Green |
Height | 18.5 Inches |
Length | 30.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 30.5? x 18? x 30? |
Weight | 16.549 Pounds |
Width | 8.5 Inches |
7. Prevue Pet Products Multi-Color Small Pet Playpen 40090,13-Inch
- 9 panels each. Wire spacing : 3/8
- 13" long by 9" high panels create a 36" Diameter play area
- Ideal for Hamsters, mice, Gerbils or other small animals
- Age range description: all stages
Features:
Specs:
Color | Multi-Color |
Height | 8.67 Inches |
Length | 13 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 13-Inch |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 35.83 Inches |
8. Living World Teach N Treat Toy
- Interactive and rewarding toy
- Helps teach pets to search for treats
- Stimulating and educational
- Three levels to provide the optimal learning experience
- Keeps your pet healthy and alert
Features:
Specs:
Color | white |
Height | 10 Inches |
Length | 10 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 pack |
Weight | 4.05 Pounds |
Width | 2 Inches |
9. Kaytee Comfort Wheel Giant 12 Inches
- Can be free standing or attached to wire cage
- For pet rats, chinchillas, and hedgehogs
- Encourages healthy exercise
- 12" Diameter
- Colors vary
- TIP: To keep your Comfort Wheel running quiet, place a few drops of vegetable oil on the wheel hub where the wheel spins.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 14 inches |
Length | 2.25 inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 12", Giant |
Weight | 1.32 Pounds |
Width | 12.12 inches |
10. MidWest Homes for Pets Deluxe Critter Nation Single Unit Small Animal Cage (Model 161)
Includes one pan, one adjustable shelf, one plastic ramp with cover & easily maneuverable stand with 4 locking wheel castersFull-width double doors on Critter Nation small animal cage and removeable shelf provide maximum accessibility for easy cleaning & feedingCritter Nation's wide expanse shelves ...
Specs:
Color | Gray Quartz |
Height | 39 Inches |
Length | 36 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Single Story |
Weight | 59 Pounds |
Width | 24 Inches |
11. Kaytee Hamster Silent Spinner, 6 1/2 inch Exercise Wheel, Colors Vary
Specially designed for quiet spinningEncourage healthy exercise6.5" diameterBest for pet hamsters and gerbilsFree standing or attach directly to any wire cage
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 8.25 Inches |
Length | 3.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Regular 6.5" |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 6.5 Inches |
12. Oxbow Essentials Adult Rat Food, 3-Pound Bag
- ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS FOR A HEALTHY, ACTIVE LIFESTYLE: Balanced protein, fat, and carbohydrates provide energy for daily function and performance
- SUPPORTS IMMUNE SYSTEM HEALTH: Made with antioxidants & prebiotics to support the immune system health of your adult rat
- PERFECT FOR PICKY EATERS: Uniform kibble prevents selective feeding
- FORTIFIED FOOD: Fortified with vitamins and minerals for optimum health
- VETERINARIAN RECOMMENDED: Formulated with the guidance of top veterinarians and nutritionists
- FEEDING INSTRUCTIONS: Adult Rats (over 4 months) Unlimited pellets daily. It is recommended to feed a limited amount of appropriate vegetables and fresh fruits in addition to unlimited grass hay for foraging and nesting.
- COMPLEMENT BY ADDING OXBOW GRASS HAY: Offer fresh grass hay to support your pet's burrowing and nesting instincts.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Basic |
Height | 12.0078740035 Inches |
Length | 4.9212598375 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | September 2013 |
Size | 3 Pound (Pack of 1) |
Weight | 3 Pounds |
Width | 8.0708661335 Inches |
13. Prevue Pet Products 528 Universal Small Animal Home, Dark Gray,CAGE
- Designed to home a wide variety of small animals
- Tight 3/8'' wire spacing. Large tubby base offers room for exercise and accessories
- Extra deep 6 1/4'' tubby base
- 2 large entry doors - one on top and one on the side
- 32 ½’’ L x 19’’ W x 17 ½’’ H with 3/8’’ wire spacing
Features:
Specs:
Color | Dark Gray |
Height | 17.5 Inches |
Length | 32.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | CAGE |
Weight | 14 Pounds |
Width | 19 Inches |
14. Living World Deluxe Habitat, X-Large, 61859A1
- Habitat that provides everything you need for safely housing a small animal such as a rabbit, guinea pig, hamster, ferret, or a chinchilla
- Small animal cage is designed with an upper wire frame and a plastic bottom base, which provides a safe, well ventilated, and comfortable place for small pets
- Includes a balcony with access ramp and small animal hideout, tip proof small animal food bowl, drip proof small animal water bottle, and hay guard
- Animal cage assembles in minutes using 8 easy to use plastic clips; no tools required
- Dimensions: 46.9 L x 22.8 W x 24 H inches
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 24 Inches |
Length | 46.9 Inches |
Size | X-Large |
Weight | 19 Pounds |
Width | 22.8 Inches |
15. Kaytee Silent Spinner Wheel, Giant 12"
- Specially designed for quiet spinning
- Encourage healthy exercise
- Available in assorted colors
- Best for Chinchillas, Pet Rats or Hedgehogs
- 12" diameter
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 14 Inches |
Length | 7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 12 in |
Weight | 1.8 Pounds |
Width | 12 Inches |
16. Ware Manufacturing Plastic Scatterless Lock-N-Litter Small Pet Pan (Colors May Vary)
- Scatterless Lock-N-Litter Pan That Locks to Prevent Messy Spills
- Made of Durable, Stain and Odor Resistant Plastic
- Locks to Cage to Eliminate Overturned Pans and Scattered Litter
- Plastic Guard and Wire Floor Keep Pets Feet Clean
- Attaches to Any Wire Cage, Easy to Remove and Easy to Clean
- Measures 12-3/4" Width X 9-1/4" Depth X 6" Height
Features:
Specs:
Color | assorted |
Height | 6 Inches |
Length | 9.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Small |
Weight | 0.05 Pounds |
Width | 12.75 Inches |
17. Supreme Tiny Friends Farm Bathing Sand 2.2lb
- 52.8 oz. Chinchilla Sand.
- Constructed with the highest quality materials for your pet.
- Keeps your pet entertained for hours.
- Satisfaction ensured.
- Makes for a great Gift.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Original Version |
Height | 20 Inches |
Length | 10 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 2.2 Pound |
Weight | 2.2 Pounds |
Width | 12 Inches |
18. Suncoast Sugar Gliders Wodent Wheel Senior & Tail Shield - 11" Running Wheel for Small Pets
- ★ FREE CAGE ATTACHMENT INCLUDED ★ – If your pet resides in a wire cage, you will find it helpful to secure the wheel to a wall or ceiling of the habitat. We include detailed instructions with pictures AND the necessary accessories to do so.
- ★ BEST FIT FOR SUGAR GLIDERS, HAMSTERS, SMALL RATS ★ Sorry hedgehogs, you probably need a larger wheel. This wheel is 11” diameter (12 “ with the stand).
- ★ FREE TAIL SHIELD ★ We include FREE wall-to-wall tail shield to protect your pet from injuries.
- ★ ANIMALS AND HUMANS LOVE THE WODENT WHEEL ★ Animals love it because it’s fun and certain animals prefer a closed design versus the more traditional open design wheel from days gone by. Humans love it because it is one of the most economical wheels on the market, much safer and quieter than conventional wheels, and has a clean, simple, oversized design that fits the running style of many small pets.
- ★ FULLY ASSEMBLED, MADE IN THE USA ★ Brought to you by SunCoast Sugar Gliders. We’ve been caring for your small pets since 1999. Please click on SunCoast Sugar Gliders under the product title to see this and more of our high quality items with FREE shipping! We are a small company devoted to great customer service. Real people helping real people.
Features:
19. Trixie Exercise Wheel, 28cm Dia (colours May Vary)
For hamsters and degusPlastic wheelFree standingHanging on the cage wall
Specs:
Height | 4.724409444 Inches |
Length | 11.81102361 Inches |
Weight | 0.881849048 Pounds |
Width | 11.81102361 Inches |
20. Ware Manufacturing Chew Proof High Rise Pet Cage for Small Pets
- Converts any 10 gallon aquarium to a small pet high rise!
- Made of durable powder coated chew proof wire
- Includes mesh ramps and shelves that are safe for your pet
- 3-Floor design allows enough space for your pet to roam
- Roof top door allows easy access for cleaning
- Measures 19-1/2 inches wide, 11 inches long, 10-1/2 inches high
- Includes food dish and water bottle
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 10.5 Inches |
Length | 11 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | FOR 10 GALLONS |
Weight | 3.7 Pounds |
Width | 19.5 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on small animal supplies
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where small animal supplies are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Aw that's wonderful! Congrats on getting sucked into the wonderful world of being a ratty owner - you're gonna love it!
So first things first: you ALWAYS adopt at least two rats. More is always preferable, and I personally think three is the best minimum because the difference between looking after 2 vs 3 ratties is honestly minimal, but that 1 extra furbaby makes all the difference to them. Rats are very very social and need friends to thrive and live happy lives. Even if you had all the time in the world and had 1 rat, you wouldn't be able to make up for all the things he needs to have with another rat(s).
Ratties are relatively simple to look after, although they do need a good bit of socializing, attention and stimulation. This helps them thrive and live happy lives. They're very intelligent and can learn a lot of things if you wish to do so - this stimulates them mentally and keeps their brains active, which again, makes them thrive!
I'll get the long stuff out of the way first and then give you a list of foods, bedding and cages after.
Generally, rats tend to adjust to new environments pretty well and they build bonds quickly too. It took my 3 boys about 2-3 weeks to become complete cuddlebugs and trust me. Of course, rats that come from a shop where they havent been socialized properly since a young age will be more shy and scared than rats from a breeder/accidental litters etc. There are different trust and bonding exercises you can do when you first get your ratties to help them adjust to their new home. There are generally 2 approaches that people take - slow and patient, or a bit more forceful. Both sides have their supporters and opposition. I find that a combination worked best for me. You just need to try and see which works best, all ratties are different. These are some of the things to do with new ratties:
When bringing the ratties home and setting them up in their cage, observe their behaviour. They will probably be a little shy but also curious, and the curious side generally tends to be stronger than the shy side! They will probably hide at first or stay in one place, but sit beside their cage and try not to make any sudden or fast movements. Just be there with them, let them smell you and get used to you, so they realize that you're a safe presence and youre not scary.
If your ratties are starting to walk around and explore their cage a little more, you can gently and slowly place your hand flat inside the bottom of the cage. Dont move, let the ratties come to you. They most likely wont be able to fight their curious side and will come over to sniff and maybe even have a little nibble on your nails, fingers etc. Dont move, let them do their thing.
Observe their behaviour and you'll be able to make a judgement on how they react to this approach. Put some porridge, apple sauce or pudding in your hand and let them lick it/eat it out of your hand. You want to pick something they wont be able to grab and run away with, which is why pudding/sauce type of food is a better choice. This forces them to eat near you and even lick you which teaches them that they can trust you, that they can get nice tasty treats and food off you and you wont hurt them.
They'll start becoming more comfortable and eventually they'll be climbing on you out of their cage when you place your hand inside, sleeping in your hoodie and riding on your shoulder. Let them do it at their own pace.
You should also spend time with them free roaming outside of the cage, to do some trust training and bonding. Many people choose to sit in their bathtub and let the ratties run around, explore and climb all over them. If you have a rat safe, smallish room, you can also sit down and let them explore and come to you etc. They'll have fun, they'll explore, play and they will start to include you. They'll gain confidence. Ratties tend to also playfight/wrestle with each other - this is normal and not a sign of aggression. The playfighting can look a bit scary if youre unfamiliar with ratty behaviour, but generally if theres no blood drawn and the rats still cuddle, eat and are relaxed around each other when theyre not wrestling, then everything is fine. They usually calm down with the wrestling after a couple of months.
Everything I described above is on the more slow and patient side. This worked beautifully with 2 of my ratties. One of them was a lot more shy however so I did try one forceful method with him and it worked amazingly.
If you do encounter a problem where a rat (or all of them) aren't really responding to these trust and bonding methods, then you can try the slightly more forceful approach. The idea in this approach is that since the rat is too timid/scared, you have to show them that they're safe with you. I had to do this with one of my rats and after 1 day, he changed completely. He became 100% comfortable and happy, he ran over to me when I came to the cage etc. Before that, he was in the hammock all day and didnt leave the cage, he didnt come to me at all.
I wore 2 shirts - one thin shirt underneath and a cozy big hoodie on top of that. All I did was take him out of the cage despite protests (squeaking and struggling was involved unfortunately) and I put him inside my hoodie. He was nice and warm there and at first he was a bit scared but he soon fell asleep. I walked around all day with him in my hoodie (obviously giving him water and food haha). Eventually he left the inside of my hoodie and started walking around on my shoulders, sniffing my face, nibbling on my hair, climbing up and down my arms etc.
That one day showed him that there's nothing to be scared of and he is completely safe with me. He will get food, water and shelter from me, he wont get hurt and he's completely safe. After that 1 day, he's been the most amazing sweet cuddlebug, very confident and very playful too!
So that pretty much covers the basic behavioural patterns and approaches - of course there's definitely something I missed and Im sure someone else here will bring up something I havent said, but that does pretty much cover the most fundamental basics.
As for food - ratties need a low fat, low protein diet. The best staple food to give them is lab blocks. A great brand that people swear by is Oxbow. The reason why this type of food is great, is because it's formulated perfectly to accommodate the ratties' diet essentials and the rats also cant be picky about which bits of food they do and dont like - this means they're getting ALL of their necessary nutrients. I wouldnt recommend getting any rat food mixes where all the nutrients they need are in separate foods all thrown together into a bag, because they're just gonna eat the bits they like and leave the ones they dont care for. Some people make their own mixes though and that works really well for them - it all depends on how picky your rats are. Personally, its hard for me to find Oxbow where I live and its very expensive to buy online, so I use this food. It's like a european version of oxbow, my rats love it and thrive on it. If your rats are young though, you want to give them a little more protein couple of times a week than is included in Oxbow or the food I use. Some boiled chicken two or three times a week until they're around 6 months or so (if Im wrong, please correct me on this, but Im pretty sure its 6 months).
You want to give them fresh vegetables to supplement their lab block diet. All the leafy greens are great for them, but other veggies are good too - just dont overdo it because the fibre will cause them to have runny poops. Rat poop should be like dry little pellets, with barely any odour unless you get all up close and personal. They might have diarrhea the first day or two when theyre in their new home just from stress, just keep an eye out on them. My ratties love cucumbers, kale, parsley, broccoli, tomatoes and spinach. Carrots are also a good choice. Try different things and see what they like. Here is a good list of foods your rats are NOT allowed to eat.
Fresh water should of course be available at all times. They should drink water only, nothing else unless you need some cranberry juice or something like that to mix with their medication if theyre sick.
As for cages - ratties need to climb, explore, run around and play. This is a rat cage calculator - select your units and put in the dimensions of the cage you're considering buying, it'll calculate how many rats can fit in the cage youre choosing. Of course this is a rough guideline, so use your best judgement - the cage may be big enough but if there's no shelves for them to climb onto or to place their food bowels etc. then its not suitable.
The ultimate cage everyone here recommends is Midwest Critter Nation. It's an expensive cage but it's perfect. Of course if youre only getting 2 or 3 rats, you dont need a huge cage like this. You can opt to get them the single Critter Nation rather than the double if you wish. That would be a great option for a smaller mischief of rats. The important things to look out for in a cage, is that the bar space isnt too big. This is especially important if youre looking to adopt girls since theyre smaller. The cage should also be powder coated, not galvanized and the bars ideally horizontal (this means the ratties can climb and its easier for you to hang their hammocks and other cage accessories).
1- Always adopt more than one!
Rats are very social animals, and to prevent undue stress and sadness, they need to have rattie friends with which to spend their time. Also, try to adopt same-sex pairs/groups to avoid accidental litters; if you must adopt rats of different genders, make sure one of them are ‘fixed’ before housing them together. It’s also a good idea to get littermates, as they’ll already be familiar with each other, and they’ll be the same age, which becomes significant as they age and pass on.
Also, I HIGHLY recommend trying to find a reputable rat rescue near you before going to a pet store or breeder. There are SO MANY loveable, beautiful rats out there that were rescued from bad conditions and need loving homes. Breeders often supply reptile owners with feeders, and many don’t keep their rats in good conditions or socialize them properly. Same with pet stores. A lot of times, female pet store rats will even end up pregnant because someone didn’t keep them away from the males. There are several Facebook groups and websites with area-specific rescue groups that can point the way for you to find your babies.
2- Make sure your cage type is right!
Rats, like humans, need their personal space. If you cram too many in too small a space, you’ll get stress and fighting. Use a cage dimension calculator like this one to make sure the cage you’re looking at buying is big enough for the number of fur babies you’re going to get (2-3 is a good starting number.) also important is the distance between the cage bars, especially if you’re going to adopt young rats. Remember, anything they can fit their head through, they can fit the rest of their body through if they really want to. Try to get a cage with no more than 1/3-1/2inch of space between the bars.
Rats are also climbers- while a single-story unit would be fine for a rabbit or guinea pig, it’s important for rats to have multiple levels and platforms on which to live and play.
DO NOT use a glass tank. Rats are prone to upper respiratory infections, and they also pee quite a lot. This wouldn’t be an issue, except rat pee is high in ammonia, which is bad for them to breathe in. Tanks just can’t get the proper level of ventilation to be a good home for rats, even with daily cleanings; they might look cute, but for your babies’ sake, stick with a cage.
Make sure your cage has smooth floors. Rats, like most other pawed animals, have little pads on their feet. They’re also quite sensitive, and prone to getting their toes caught. Make sure that any mesh or wire platforms in your cage are covered with a hard, smooth surface so that your rats can walk/run/jump around comfortably.
3- Essentials
Rats are prey animals, so their instincts drive them to hide and nest; make sure you give them lots of places to hide away, like little houses, nests, baskets, and hammocks. Places up high are a favorite among my girls.
Make sure you have an constant, ample water supply. I recommend having a couple of water bottles, or a bottle and a dish- just in case they finish one off during the day, they’ll have plenty more to make it until you get home and notice that one’s empty. I personally keep a dish with dry rat food full in the cage as well, to make sure they’re never hungry.
Fleece liners or other bedding options are also important- rats aren’t very good at regulating their body temperatures, so giving them a means to keep warm is important. Fleece covers over the trays (I use blankets cut to shape and pinned with binder clips) or bedding spread liberally over the bottom of a deeper pan is important for this.
Exercise wheels are also a good idea; get the biggest one you can- it’s not good for them to have their backs/tails bent at too far an angle. A saucer wheel is perfect, but my girls wouldn’t run on the one I gave them, so I got them this one
Also, not quite essential, but- rats are über smart, and can be litterbox trained! Giving them a litter box and training them to use it will save a lot of time and effort when it comes to cleaning their cage every week.
4- Toys and decorations
Like I said before, rats are smart! They need mental stimulation. Puzzles, toy balls, and hanging bird toys are all great ideas. There are also a ton of diy toy ideas on the Internet in places like Pinterest. A lava rock ledge or a brick in the cage will help them keep their claws trim, and provide a convenient step-up into a hide. Try to stay away from soft woods, and keep with hardwood toys and shelters.
As for decor; they’ll probably regularly chew through the fleece you give them, so it’s easy to switch up the cage aesthetic whenever you want :) you can also cut up the old fleece into bits and give it to them as bedding to nest with, too.
This is my girls’ cage after it was mostly-clean yesterday (I did the top level later on.) I know the image is potato-quality, but you’ll probably be able to see the water bottles, hammocks, hides, and wheel :) their food dish is stashed behind the purple ramp next to the wheel haha
You might also notice the boxes in the top level; cardboard boxes are a great thing to put in their cages; it’s a chew toy and a hide all in one! You’ll need to replace them regularly, of course, but things like soda boxes and tissue boxes are great cage additions.
5- Cleanliness
It’s important to clean your rats’ cage weekly, at least, and twice weekly if they’re hairless (hairless are more prone to uri’s.) Personally, I wipe down the bars with baby wipes (or soap and water if they really need it) and clean the pans with soap and water. As for all of the hammocks and fleece, I toss it in the washing machine with my own clothes (no fabric softener or dryer sheets) and also make sure to beat them out (like a rug) so they’re as clean as possible before putting them in the laundry. I also wash all of their plastic toys, dishes, and wheels with soap and water, making sure to rinse them well so there’s no residue.
It’s rare, but sometimes your rats will need some help getting clean. When my girls were younger, there came a point where they smelled like pee and they had porphyrin all over their fur from their own cleanings; at that point, I prepared a thick towel and some warm water, and washed each of them with oatmeal baby soap, making sure to avoid their faces and ears (as you would with a dog or other pet) and immediately afterward cuddled them in the towel until they were dry enough that I felt like they wouldn’t be too cold in their cage. My SO was a big help with that stage.
6- Nutrition
Rats need a varied diet. Depending on where you look, you get different percentages, but personally what I do is leave a bowl full of dry food in their cage and top it off as needed, and every night (or, being real, every other night) when I get home and make my dinner, I make a plate for them and load it up with a bed of kale, sliced or canned vegetables, berries, a sprinkle of oats or nuts (I have some petite babies and I’m trying to help them gain weight) and some chicken or turkey baby food; sometimes I’ll even put some fruit baby food on there as well- they absolutely love it. For protein I’ll also sometimes do scrambled eggs or chicken that I’ve shredded up post-cooking, instead of poultry baby food (baby food is just the easiest thing for me to do) :) these guys give a comprehensive list of foods that are safe for rats, and when in doubt, google it before feeding it to them. Male rats generally have more dietary rules than females, so watch out for that with them.
7- Playtime!
Every single day, your rats will need at least an hour of playtime with you. Just like we were told as kids “get out and play an hour a day” this is really important for their mental and physical health. This could be anything from a free-roam in a rat-proof room, or just running around on the bed while you watch a movie. This is also a great time for you to teach them some tricks (there are plenty of tutorials on the web for how to train them 😊) or set up a little play area for them complete with toy houses and things to explore and treat-laden puzzles for them to solve. For treats, my girls love yogies, nuts, and dried fruit :)
This information could vary depending on where you live, as for the United States. Make sure you’re familiar with your local laws on ferrets and your landlords policy before you commit to anything.You’ll most likely come across Marshall ferrets if you’re getting from a pet store. You want to look for the double dot tattoo on their ear that indicates they’ve been descented and spayed/neutered. You should always have at least two ferrets because they’re social animals and get depressed alone. They’re very social and need someone to keep them company whenever you can’t. You really can’t take the place of a second ferret playmate because you cannot play like a ferret and there will be times when they are without you and you can’t cuddle up in their hammock with them lol I find females are easier to train but boys can be very sweet too. They do bite and that needs to be trained out of them. It’s a good idea to research some training techniques before hand so you’re prepared and can be consistent from the start. They relieve themselves in corners so that can be used to your advantage when potty training them. Some people use litter boxes with pellets (never kitty litter), personally I use weewee pads and secure them in place with tape. If they’re not secure they will run away with them and tear them up lol. They do poop a lot and you have to keep up with cleaning it up. They’re super smart and energetic so they need enrichment. Tunnels, ball pits, and toys are a must. They also need lots of out of the cage time (minimum of 4 hours a day but the more the better) if you can dedicate a ferret proof section of your house that is ideal, my ferrets have their own bedroom so they are never confined to a cage. If they are roaming in a non ferret proof room they need to be closely monitored because they can be seriously injured if they chew on a wire, get stepped on, knock over something glass, or get into food that would be toxic for a ferret etc. As far as cages go I recommend a ferret nation cage, the double doors makes cleaning it easier and it’s an appropriate size for a ferret. (not sure what kind of cage you already have but make sure it’s appropriate for ferrets, not all small animal cages will work for them.) Wysong digestive support is a good food for them. It’s isn’t that much more expensive that Marshall’s but it’s substantially healthier and worth the extra price as it improve the longevity of your ferrets. Grizzly’s salmon oil makes a good treat because they love it and it’s very healthy for them. Be careful when picking a food because they cannot have vegetables, grains, or soy and many leading pet food brands do have them. They are strictly carnivores and should never eat dairy, sugar, fruits, vegetables, or grains/breads. They need their ears cleaned once a week (tiniest bit of olive oil on a q-tip and don’t push down the canal) and their hammocks and beds need to be washed. The majority of their musky smell comes from their ears so keeping up with that will keep the smell under control. They don’t need baths very often, frequent baths could dry out their skin. My vet told me once a month, other owners say every few months or never unless they’ve gotten themselves dirty (the less the better!). Their nails also need to be clipped and this is better off done as a two person job so one person can scruff ( held up by the skin on the back of their neck like a cat would hold a kitten in her mouth) and the other person can clip the nails. Make sure you don’t clip too fair back or you could make them bleed. You can usually see the vein in their nail and avoid it but it is something you need to be careful about and don’t want to do if they’re squirming, keep some styptic powder on hand just in case. Another tactic is to try it right after they’ve fallen asleep so they’re docile enough to let you do it. or you can rub some salmon oil on their tummy so that they’ll be distracted licking it off. Don’t use ferretvite it contains harmful ingredients and loads of sugar which is harmful for ferrets. Their teeth also need to be cleaned. Constant access to fresh water is a must. Leave the lights off for them at night, it’s good for their melatonin regulation. I would also recommend keeping an empty emergency kennel above their cage in case of a fire or any other event that would need you to evacuate quickly. It’s also important to have a vet on hand. If you get a Marshall’s ferret they’re usually all taken care of medically before you adopt them but they are sensitive creatures and are prone so certain problems and you don’t want to wait until something is wrong to look for a vet. Most conventional cat/dog vets won’t see ferrets because they are considered exotic. They live up to 8 years and take a lot of time, energy, love, patience, and commitment. They are a long term commitment so make sure you’re up for it and your schedule allows for it before you adopt. Good luck :)
Midwest Deluxe Ferret Nation Add-On Unit Ferret Cage (Model 183) Includes 1 Leak-Proof Pans, 1 Shelf, 1 Ramps w/Ramp Cover. Compatible w/Ferret Nation Models 181 & 182 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n-lpDbMH66638
Wysong Ferret Epigen 90 Digestive Support - Dry Ferret Food, Four - 5 Pound Bags https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019W9VYPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6-lpDbWYENQ5R
Grizzly Omega Health for Dogs & Cats, Wild Salmon Oil/Pollock Oil Omega-3 Blend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074N97RFP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n.lpDbAWJAHGM
I'm not sure if you are the vloggers in this video, but I'm gonna assume you are and give you the standard 'new hamster advice' that we give a lot of people on here, as a community we're trying to improve hamster care, and as a youtuber, your community is so important for forwarding that :)
First off, it looks like you've got some good kids that will hopefully be good and responsible hamster owners! However, and this is a fault with the pet shops more than anything who often give out incorrect if well meaning advice for new owners, there are a few things you can do that'll make your hamster happier and a much better pet.
Firstly, the wheel needs to be replaced with one with a solid running base, a 12" one is perfect for syrian hamsters. Wired wheels lead to something called Bumblefoot (wiki article linked), which is very painful for hamster. The best wheels have a solid base, a solid back, and a semi-open front, something like this.
Also, the cage needs to be substantially bigger, although it's hard to tell what the dimensions are from the video, you should be aiming for 450 square inches of unbroken floor space. A 40gallon aquarium is perfect, or a bin cage - bin cages can be a really fun project for the kids to get involved with as well...and another huge benefit is that there is less opportunity for bar chewing!! The bedding in the cage should be deeper - a few inches for sure, but deeper is better, they love burrowing and in the wild will burrow many meters under the ground.
Studies have shown that hamsters in bigger cages are calmer, less stressed, and easier to handle (I can dig them up if you want), so a bigger cage is better for the hamster and better for you!
There's some great resources on the subreddit about good hamster care :)
edit: a very well put together thread about cage size/set up, including research sources
I get all my fleece from JoAnn stores. They often have fleece at 50% off per yard, so you can buy it in bulk and use it as needed. Any large fabric store will have lots of fleece in stock (I just prefer JoAnn because that's the best one I have in the area I live in). I'm sure you know this already, but just in case, please don't use cedar or pine chips as bedding for your rats; it's harmful to them. You can use fleece or aspen chip bedding (but freeze the aspen for 48 hours prior to use to make sure it's free of parasites).
I buy many rat toys on Amazon, and make some myself. If you're buying any kind of wooden rat toy, do be aware that many of them are made from soft woods like pine and cedar, which are super bad for rat respiratory systems. Hardwood toys are usually safe—just make sure it's not a combination wood that also has pine or cedar in it along with the hardwood. I personally do not buy wood toys on amazon, because the products often don't list what kind of wood they're made of. The only wood product I buy on Amazon is bags of untreated apple branch chewing sticks. I'll link you to some rat-safe toys and accessories I buy on amazon below! :)
Kaytee Lava Ledge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176F466/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
15" Chin Spin - Small Animal Exercise Wheel - Handmade in USA (Expensive, but it's the very best and safest wheel for rats.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ6SDBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bright Starts Lots of Links Accessory Toy (Great for hanging things up in the cage.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ABZGU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1
Small Animal Activity Toy Cotton Rope Net For Rat and Ferret Pet Bed for Parrot and Hamster Parrot
https://www.amazon.com/Animal-Activity-Cotton-Ferret-Hamster/dp/B0777NWKT9/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1519011945&sr=1-2&keywords=rat+rope+net
Kaytee Igloo Hideout, Large
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068K132/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ACCO Binder Clips, Medium, 2 Boxes, 12/Box (A7072050) (If using fleece as the bedding/liner in your cage, this helps to secure fleece to the Critter Nation pans.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQ8FDB8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Dr. Bronner's Pure-Castile Liquid Soap - Baby Unscented, 32oz. (I don't use any scented products with my rats since rat respiratory systems are so fragile, so this is the non-scented liquid soap I use to wash my hands and their non-fabric toys.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DAI76TC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pawliss Teeth Grinding Lava Block for Hamster Chinchilla Rabbit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGHA6VW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Aspen/Booda Corporation BBX56134 Byrdy Cable Cross Bird Toy, Medium
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WRHTG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
200g(7oz) Apple Sticks Pet Snacks Chew Toys for Guinea Pigs Chinchilla Squirrel Rabbits Hamster(About 50-70 Sticks) by MAIYUAN (The only wood product I buy on Amazon.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WLL641Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ware Manufacturing Fun Tunnels Play Tube for Small Pets (Medium.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LUMU9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ware Manufacturing Plastic Scatterless Lock-N-Litter Small Pet Pan- Colors May Vary (Regular size, not jumbo.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SLICDA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
JW Comfy Perch for Birds (Large, 36".)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AR754/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lixit Critter Space Pod 2 Large (You can hand these on the ceiling of the Critter Nation. My boys LOVE these!)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X2NBNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lixit Lbg-16 Glass Small Animal Bottle 16 Oz (16oz is always best for rats because of the bigger water spout. I've found that smaller bottles are a struggle for my boys to get water out of, so I only use the small ones for rat carriers/transporter cages. Tip: filtered water is best for rats, so if you can, get a Britta water filter.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WYCFK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yummy Time Tiny Small Stoneware Pet/Dog Bowl
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAUMYDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I buy Harlan Teklad (Envigo) food blocks for my rats, which is one of the top two for rats (the other is Oxbow Regal Rat). Harland Teklad is hard to find though, so I buy mine through this animal rescue:
http://weecompanions.org/healthy-food
If you get these blocks, freeze them to extend their shelf life, and take them out from the freezer as needed to fill your ratties' bowls. Harlan Teklad is great because they have several formulas for rats based on their age, which is super helpful for their health. Young rats up to 8 months usually eat Harlan Teklad 2016 (16% protein), and after 8 months they eat Harlan Teklad 2014 (14% protein).
Also, I don't have a link for this, but the best laundry detergents to use to wash your rats' cloth toys or bedding with is one that's non-scented and is sensitive on skins.
Um, if I think of anything else, I'll add it. But for now, it's already a ton. :P Enjoy!
(And feel free to message me if you have any questions!)
Handling: You can do things to get them used to you in their cage (treats, petting, etc) but I do most of my socializing outside of the cage. I reach in, pick them up, bring them close to my chest, carry them to their play area, then set them down. The more quickly and confidently I do this, the better they seem to take it. Some rats dislike getting picked up more than others but they learn to trust you the more exposure they have. I usually start picking my rats up to bring them out of the cage within the first few days of owning them. I think it's as important for me to get comfortable and confident in picking rats up as it is for them to get used to getting picked up. IsamuRats and ShadowTheRat have both done short youtube series on socializing or taming rats. I'd recommend taking a look to get ideas.
Cleaning: Rats are messy and they poop and pee everywhere. Cleaning is sort of just a never ending process. I do a little every day. I'll usually spot clean once or twice a day, moving stray poops from the floors or hammocks to the litter boxes and throwing out soiled nesting materials. Every two or three days I'll swap out the litter and change the fleece/uhaul mats on the platforms as well as swap out all of the fabric hammocks. My boys tend to pee where they sleep so the hammocks only last a few days before they have to be changed. If I don't change them often enough, my boys will start to stink. If I keep their beds and bedding clean, they stay clean. Once a week I'll do a full cage cleaning that involves swapping out and washing everything. I'll also shake out the past week's worth of hammocks/liners and wash them all at the same time, it's usually a full load. If you have to hand-wash, I'd pre-soak with some vinegar in the water, then hand-wash with a fragrance-free soap.
Toys and Enrichment: A full cage that encourages climbing and exploring is good. I like scatter feeding so my boys can spend hours searching out their food rather than just having it all in a bowl. You could also have their main food in a bowl and then just scatter a bit of a supplemental dry mix for variety. Rats love climbing, digging, destroying stuff, and finding treats. Anything you can give them that encourages any of these behaviors will be great for them.
Health: RatGuide has a great basic and advanced health checklist to help you figure out what to look out for. Respiratory issues are pretty common for rats. Keeping a clean cage is one of the best things you can do to reduce health risks. Ammonia build-up is pretty toxic. Keeping their environment as low-dust, fragrance/scent-free, and smoke-free as possible is also good. HEPA air purifiers are great for air quality and a carbon filter would also help with odors. The more comfortable your rats become with being handled, the better. If you handle your rats often and check their bodies for lumps, check their teeth, etc., the quicker you'll become aware of potential issues. Rats don't necessarily need chew-toys because they can keep their teeth in check by grinding them but stuff to chew on may fall under the enrichment category. Regularly weighing your rats can also give you early warning of potential illness if they start losing weight rapidly.
For 4 girls, I'd probably recommend either the Rat Skyscraper from Martin's Cages or the single unit or double unit Critter Nation cages. These are two very different style cages and which one works better for you will depend on your circumstances and preferences.
Miscellaneous: Some rats open up right away, others take more work. Some may be very affectionate (if not in their own ways), and others may not be. Rats all have such distinctive and individual personalities. Sometimes you gotta check your expectations at the door and learn to love them for what they are. A couple things that are good to know going into owning rats are that they live sadly short lives and losing them can be very difficult. I think a lot of people don't continue keeping rats because it can be so hard losing them so soon. You can also get trapped into a cycle of owning rats because you want to avoid keeping solo rats. The biggest thing you may find out is that you might go rat crazy and want to buy all the rats. Go slow, though, or you'll find yourself with more rats than you can afford to properly take care of. Four is a really good, manageable number.
First of all, realize they are nocturnal animals. He or she will be up ALL NIGHT and they are very active creatures, and if you are not also a night owl, this might bother you. Consider getting a large wheel like this one. They have long tails that can get stuck in the bars of hamster wheels, and they'll run on this thing all night long if you ignore them so the silent part is key. Yes, they need a lot of space, ideally the larger the enclosure the better. If you only have one or two sugars you can opt for a large bird cage or small reptarium (like a terrarium, but for reptiles) but any more than that, and you start looking at really expensive cages. They'll also enjoy large hamster or guinea pig balls to roam around the house. The more toys, the more space, the more attention the better.
Secondly, they are exotic and require a lot of care. Their diets are very specialized and you'll have to make a lot of it from scratch and provide a lot of fresh fruit and insects. They are marsupials, they require certain vitamins and minerals to remain healthy and free of disease. A common disease for sugars is something called HLP, hind leg paralysis. Because of this they need foods high in calcium... You'll need to learn to make BML food, the instructions and ingredients for which can be found here They also love fresh fruits, a good list can be found here You can go to any local bait shop and pick up bugs for them, my sugar really liked crickets and mealworms. I ended up keeping a small cage full of crickets and a small cup of mealworms in the fridge, in addition to the BML in the freezer, and fresh fruit, honey and snacks for feedings.
Food, aside from nourishment is a great opportunity for bonding. They like applesauce or yogurt and will eat it from the tips of your fingers. Its a good idea to start them young with these behaviours so they learn your scent, and are less prone to bite. He or she will enjoy eating with you, and they will appreciate getting treats or insects straight from your hands. Aside from bonding with food, scent bonding is key. Sugar gliders, like ferrets, have scent glands in their heads and bodies. The males are stronger scented than females, but they will mark their territory and you, and will look for your scent as well. I used small squares of cloth that I had slept with or kept under my pillow for several days. I'd put this in his nest box or pouch (obviously, marsupials sleep in pouches, yet another thing to research or a fun DIY sewing project) and he'd sleep with it, growing accustomed to my smell. Feeding them by hand and scent bonding are both important to start on when they are young.
TL;DR they're just REALLY different from any other pet you've probably ever had. Do the research and really think about whether or not this type of work is for you.
I hope you or anybody else who read all that found this comment helpful :)
I want to say thank you for being receptive to rattit's collective knowledge.
Definitely agree with all that was said by /u/durshka
To add to what has been said:
I'm not sure what country you are in, but in the US there are some great rat feeds. It's crucial you give them this, because rats will pick through seeds and take the carb/sugar loaded things over the protein vitamin stuff. (they are like people)
Oxbow is pretty standard and they look like this you do not want to get stuff like this as their main feed. They will pick through all the good bits (pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, peanuts, dried peas) and leave the fiber which they need. I do have a bag of this and use it as treats!
PLENTY OF FRESH VEG! also remember to wash the veg and fruit off well if you are going non-organic. Pesticides are truly harmful especially to rats which in comparison to us are TINY!
Give them a bit of chicken or tuna etc from time to time. I usually share what I'm eating with them if it's healthy.
Another good treat (and a good way to administer medicine if ever needed) is baby food. Mine love the sweet potato, squash, peas one!
When picking out a cage try and get one with at least 2 floors. Meaning they can climb and have different areas. Rats are super smart, and need space to keep it interesting. Also make sure the flooring of the shelves and ramps is not wired steel, and that it has plating. The bottom can be as long as you have enough bedding on the bottom. Rats can get bumblefoot from wired flooring.
A CAGE LIKE THIS IS IDEAL it's tall rather than wide, which they love!
Carefresh should be fine! :) And hopefully the grate keeps the majority of the mess in, but it's so floofy and fun to play with. Again, it should be fine, just a little more to pick off before throwing it in the wash.
Scraps and lots of toys to chew and tear up are lots of fun! It can also be cheap. Dig boxes and wood chews and cardboard mailing tubes are all fun toys for rats. Here's a great site for ideas: http://www.dapper.com.au/toys.htm
Yay learning on a sewing machine! :D That's awesome that you're willing to learn on it. And the silent spinner is a bit pricey, yes... my Run-Around wheel was around $16, but my girls learned to run on the Comfort Wheel and are used to having a closed-in space, so they prefer the Comfort Wheel more. You can always pick one up at a physical pet store, as well, and clean it and return it if they don't like it (I know.. I'd feel guilty about it, but if it's in new condition, I don't think it's a bad thing to do). Ask at the rescue (if they ever call you, dang it!) if the rats are used to wheels already. Even if they're not it's worth a shot, because it's a lot of fun!
Yeah, vinegar is good for cleaning out flat surfaces, and you can always scrub with a rag for stubborn stains. But you'll be using fleece, which absorbs most of the mess! If your husband is allergic to bleach and you use vinegar already, you're good! :D
Oof, I would give them a call. Rescues are probably inundated with stuff to do, so they may have been to busy to reply. How many rats are you planning to take in? Will they be older, or babies? Male or female? (Sorry for being nosy; I'm excited for you!) Good on you for adopting from a rescue, BTW!! You're a hero! Don't be discouraged if your rats are a little flighty at first, or if they don't explore their new digs right away, especially if they were rescued from a not-so-great situation and are older. They'll open up with all the love and care you're already giving them!
This would be a much more suitable cage for three rats as it's made of metal but the base is easy to remove for cleaning as is the shelf. http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY It's actually the cage I have for my 3 boys and they enjoy it. Eventually I'd recommend maybe expanding it to include the top cage as well so they have even more room to move around if possible. Also, the bonus of this cage is that there is a shelf below it where you can store things. Just make sure that you aren't storing food down there because they will eat it. My husband also made a little ramp out of a piece of wood he covered in felt so that when we let our boys out they can come and go out of their cage as they please. Also, we use felt rather than fluff for their cage (mainly because one of our rats is allergic to most fluff) because it's so much easier to change. We change the felt and do a full wipe down of the cage with soap and water/disinfecting wipes every 3 or 4 weeks but with cleaning up/picking up poops/emptying their poop pan every couple of days. We use a shallow and small brownie pan for a poop pan and stick it to the floor with magnets. That way it's easy for us to remove but they can't push it around or flip it over.
You can get a bowl and water bottle at petco. They're not expensive. Make sure that you get food blocks for them rather than a food mix. With a food mix they can pick and choose what they want to eat (such as just the seeds) whereas with food blocks they will get complete nutrition in one place. We keep the food blocks in our freezer to avoid any tiny bugs that may come join the bag (which happened in the past when we ordered a large 50 lb bag and kept it in a plastic container...big waste of money).
Most rats will not use that flying saucer. Also, they can be dangerous and ratties can hurt themselves on them. I would not recommend getting one.
If they fight I would just let them be unless they're really getting loud and squeaking a whole lot. Then break it up. Usually a "hey!" is enough to get them to stop. But if not then you can always poke them with your finger. Not hard. Just enough to take their attention off of each other. Fighting isn't always a bad thing. Sometimes ratties just do it for fun and it's more like wrestling even though it might look like fighting. It's also a way to establish pecking order/the alpha role.
You don't need to give them specific vitamins but there are several foods that you should never give to rats. There's actually quite a long list so make sure that you google it or use the links at the side of this subreddit. They will help you learn what is okay and what's not okay for them to eat. They will get all of their vitamins in the food blocks but rats do get bored easily so you need to make sure that you supplement with veggies and fruit. Also, yogies (yogurt drops) are a wonderful treat for rats. They LOVE them. You can find them at petco next to the rat food.
You should let them out daily or at the very least every couple of days to explore and run around. We let our rats out for a few hours a day. But please make sure that you have a specific area for them to explore and that there isn't anything around that can hurt them or that they can get into that they shouldn't. We like to let our rats run around our living room. We block off our kitchen door and our hallway door and let them run around and explore. Rats love to chew so try to keep an eye on them. Chewing is a natural thing though. They do it to keep their teeth at the right length. A good way to combat chewing is by making sure that they have enough toys and things to play with in and outside of their cage. That link to that little toy you put up is a great and fun thing for rats! They will destroy it in no time at all but they will immensely enjoy it. See the links at the side for more toy ideas or google some.
Rats do need bathes every now and again. It can be difficult though as most hate water. If you want to introduce your rats to water then use lukewarm water in your bathtub and put just enough in that part of the floor is covered but that there's still a dry area for them to go if they hate it. They may try to climb up your arms and claw the shit out of you like mine do and they may poop a bunch but don't be alarmed. Those are fear poops. Just scoop them out and continue on. Use just a dab of animal safe shampoo and wash them. Do not get their heads super wet. I usually just avoid their heads all together. It's going to be difficult to wash them if they hate the water but sometimes a full bath is really needed. Other times you can just use a warm, wet washcloth and wipe them down. If they hated the bath tub then there's a good chance they will hate the wet washcloth as well. We bathe our boys when they start to smell or just if it's been a while. So probably every 2-3 months. They are really not fans of water so we try to only bath tub bathe them if a wet washcloth won't do the trick. Just make sure that you have a fluffy dry towel to wrap them in once they are done so they can be nice and warm!
If you need any other advice please feel free to ask. Just make sure that you check out those links to the side and really really study up about how to properly care for a rat. Rats are amazing little creatures and are such fun pets but like any pet they do require care and love. So get as familiar as you can with proper care before you bring them home.
Cardboard boxes with shredded paper, pieces of cardboard, paper towel rolls, and some hay stuffed inside with a tunnel attached is by far my buns' favorite toys. They love going in and ripping everything apart and finding hay/treats to eat. Bunnies love cardboard boxes in general. They'll rip them apart and move them around, chew on 'em, make hidey holes, climb on them. I'll even cut out some holes on the side of the boxes and stuff cardboard tubes frayed at the ends/stuffed with hay for them to have fun with.
Tunnels rank at number 2 favorite toy. Their favorite is the crinkley cat tunnels which have holes throughout them they can dart out. They like the crinkle noise too.
They love manipulating objects, hard plastic slinkies (not metal ones!) are fun for them ... and to watch, haha. Hard plastic baby rattles, baby keys, etc. Just no gel/soft plastic as it would be easy for them to bite and ingest.
http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Toys_and_Games This has an awesome list of toys and also places to buy bun toys. I've bought cottontail cottages, activity tables, rosewood activity trees, etc--buns love them all! But they are expensive for sure. The activity tables last forever but it would definitely be cheaper to build one !
Oh, also--I would recommend games like the Teach N Treat for mental stimulation as well: http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-Living-World-Teach-Treat/dp/B004HYW9B8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393474030&sr=8-1&keywords=teach+n+treat
There are tons of dog and cat games like that too that buns will love: http://www.amazon.ca/Trixie-4594-Products-Solitaire-White/dp/B0057G1WT0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3EH8O533V5DMS&coliid=I346NPTH7GATHZ
Also they love moving around these treat balls when you stuff em with pellets: http://www.amazon.com/Smarter-Toys-Treat-Inches-Colors/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393474058&sr=8-2&keywords=treat+ball
They love games that have anything to do with eating/end result being eating. :P
http://www.amazon.ca/Kitty-Mansions-Memphis-Tree-Beige/dp/B0043Z0EUE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3EH8O533V5DMS&coliid=IHU58PNBHRME6 CAT TREES! Build your own if you want! Make sure if you buy one to cover any non-safe bun material.
I also got them one of these: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0038B2EKM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00005C5H4/ref=oh_details_o02_s05_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Stack cups! Put treats between them and watch them knock them over and nom the treats. :)
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00000IZQP/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i05?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They also like knocking these off.
http://www.amazon.ca/Super-Pet-Tropical-Fiddle-Stick/dp/B000HHO26E/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3EH8O533V5DMS&coliid=I1Y9U0EEWOMV8N These things!
http://www.amazon.ca/Ware-711-Roller-Assorted-Colors/dp/B001CQFDJY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3EH8O533V5DMS&coliid=I3D5TZDNHU5HM8 This makes eating hay a bit more fun for them. :)
My boys love rolling around and destroying these: http://www.amazon.ca/Peters-Woven-Grass-Play-Ball/dp/B0009YJ3OG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3EH8O533V5DMS&coliid=I2VYO2771IW0LJ
Bunnies really enjoy long-term projects, which is why they like the dig boxes I described in the first paragraph so much. They dig and rearrange the boxes foreeever until I make a new one for them.
Sorry for the TL;DR, but here is some advice that I have read and/or figured out during the last 9 months of owning bonded 1.5 year old English Spots.
I second the adult rabbits needing homes. Our local Animal Shelter charges $5 for the adoption fee and $20 for the spay/neuter fee. However, someone had already adopted the pair of rabbits we got and returned them, so they paid the $20 spay/neuter fee each. We got our awesome companion rabbits for only $5 each. We also put our savings into their cage and some awesome toys. I recommend the Teach N' Treat They absolutely love it! At some point I will take a video of them playing with it and post it on here.
Other things I am not sure if I have seen on this subreddit yet or not are (I am rather new here):
One thing that is also useful is buying a medium sized Sterilite plastic container to hold a few weeks supply of food, and put the bag in the closet well-closed so that the bag of pellets can stay fresh longer (since your not exposing it to air everyday) We have a solo cup with a line that marks 1/8 per rabbit that we leave in the Sterilite container. Also, only buy like a 3 month supply of pellets or else it loses nutrients.
Also, the internet and free shipping is your friend. We use drsfosterandsmith because we buy like 50 lbs of Oxbow Timothy hay at a time and 3- 10 lb bags of rabbit food and hay cubes (they lovvvvvve those too.) Shipping is free because it is over $49. Our rabbits are very picky and waste a lot of hay, but we don't live near a farm to get good hay cheap, so $75 for 50 lbs of hay is a steal for us. I think (though r/rabbits correct me if I am wrong) don't buy more hay that you can use in 9-12 months. Also, store it open so it doesn't get mildewy/moldy.
Also, we use a cube constructed from 5 panels of those wire storage cubes to put their hay in and they grab at it from the sides. We did this because they would urinate and poop all over the hay and not eat it again, plus made cleaning the cage harder. As an added bonus, the cube of hay especially entertains our girl bunny because she is the wire grabber/carpet digger/chewer and she thinks they are little vines that need pruning. This was the 5th attempt at finding something to contain the massive amounts of hay two rabbits can go through in one day, but it has worked the best.
Also we have still not found a good vacuum that picks up hay without clogging, so we do most of that by hand or with a stiff broom, then a once over with a vacuum with all the big stuff picked up. The Versa Stick Vac works well especially to get hair/poops and some smaller bits of hay in the crevice between the wall and carpet. Still not perfect though.
I second others saying vinegar is basically a miracle cleaner because rabbits are sensitive to most chemicals, and the vinegar cleans everything up like magic. We have a low pile rug and a piece of vinyl (keep them from chewing the edges because they will) as the bottom of their cage so they have some traction, but also the vinyl stays a bit cooler, and we put their water dish and hay to make clean up easier. We have an x-pen and some of those wire cube panels around the wall to keep them from chewing the walls.
Rabbits are awesome little furballs, and patience is definitely the number one thing. Just when we think we have fixed something to keep them from chewing/digging/eating something, they prove us wrong and we have to start over again. We are on cage design number 4 but this one is actually working a lot longer/better than the others.
Good luck!
Sorry for the length! I get a bit wordy with my answers!
Just gonna copy/paste a comment I recently made on a similar subject, with unnecessary parts edited out and a few things added:
I would suggest getting at least one friend for her but preferably 2. And you'll want to get rats of the same gender, unless you want lots of babies. Having 3 rats is very helpful if something happens and you lose a rat. It helps the remaining rats if they can cope with the loss of a buddy together and may lessen the chances of them getting overly depressed. And in most situations, the more rats you have, the happier they will be. They're highly social and tend to like having a bigger family.
If you're getting food at the store, stay away from seed mix type foods such as this. It's not healthy for them, and the dried corn in it can cause liver cancer. I'd recommend a block/kibble type rat food such as Oxbow. You can even buy the adult formula of Oxbow and just supplement with extra protein once or twice a week until around 6 months old; and, in general, most rats don't seem to like the Garden Select or the young rat variety, so keep that in mind too. You'll want to give them fresh veggies regularly and fruits as a treat (as too much fruit can cause runny poops.) I like referring to this guide when introducing new foods as some foods are very dangerous for rats, and some are only dangerous for a specific gender.
When getting a cage (NOT an aquarium) make sure you get 1/2" bar spacing to avoid escapes. And you can use this handy cage calculator to make sure your cage will be big enough. Some cages sold as rat cages are not actually big enough for adults to comfortably live and stretch out in. If you use a loose substrate bedding, stay away from cedar or pine (unless it's kiln dried pine) though kiln dried aspen tends to be the most recommended wood shaving bedding. Some people use recycled paper bedding, though it isn't as good at absorbing smells as the aspen or pine. If you use fleece, you'll need to change it more frequently than a loose substrate but it's much less messy, though terrible for controlling odor. I personally do a mix of both, loose bedding in the bottom of the cage and fleece lining the rest of the shelves.
You'll also want to consider getting a litter pan to litter train them, and use a different type of litter in the pan so they associate it with a bathroom area. I personally like using critter litter by Kaytee. Also, find a smooth flat rock to keep in the litter pan. For some reason rats like peeing on rocks.
You'll want to make sure to have enough hides, hammocks, etc for each rat to have their own if they aren't feeling like being cuddled up or just need a break from the other rats. Space pods are highly loved by most rats. I have 2 in my cage, one on each level. Cardboard boxes are a big hit as well. I buy cheap boxes of Kleenex and just shove the whole thing in the cage (after removing the plastic stuff around the opening.) They love "decorating" their cage with it, and they can use the box as another hide when they're done. PVC is also a big hit with a lot of rats. You can make little tunnels for them to hide or play in and some people even drill holes in them (for ventilation and) to suspend them from the roof of the cage to help change it up a little.
Also, you'll want to spot clean/pick up stray poops throughout the week until cage cleaning day comes. After the cage is clean (leaving 1-2 "dirty" things in their cage to prevent over cleaning, thus leading to over marking after you spent all that time cleaning) I suggest completely rearranging their cage each time. It keeps their minds stimulated and makes them highly interested in exploring their "new" home week after week. It's especially fun for them if you hide treats throughout the cage for them to find. For a cleaner, I use a vinegar/water (25% vinegar, 75% water) solution as it disinfects and deodorizes very well and the rats aren't sensitive to it like some cage cleaners. I also put about half a cup in with their laundry when I wash it. You'll want to use free and clear detergent (no dyes/perfumes) like this. I don't use fabric softeners or dryer sheets either.
Lastly, you'll want to keep an emergency vet budget set aside. Rats don't need routine visits like a dog necessarily, but there is a high chance your rats will need to go to the vet at some point during their lives. They have a very delicate immune system and URIs are very common, as well as myco flareups, as almost all rats carry myco. You can read the article linked in the sidebar for more info on that. And in my experience, it tends to be emergency/short notice needs for the vet. Rats are prey animals and will hide an illness until they are no longer capable of hiding it, and by then they are usually pretty sick. Prices vary from area to area, but where I am, I expect to spend around $60-90 for a visit, including medications; from what I've read on here though, I'm on the lower end of the price range and some people easily spend double that.
Sorry this got a lot longer than I had expected it to, and if you read it all, thank you. If you have any questions, this sub is a great place and has a lot of great and very helpful people here. Good luck with your future babies.
Honestly, it's better when you move out and can afford the best cage, food, stuff to make toys with, time to devote to cleaning and money for vet care, etc. You can have your own apartment and everything just the way you want it.
My mother grew up on a farm, and will never ever see "fancy" rats as they truly are. She's been open minded about some things, but the rat thing, I never tried to push at all while I lived at home. It wasn't worth rocking the boat, because I honestly didn't have the most stable childhood, and that's not great for pets either.
I live in a nice place now, I'm cozy and comfortable and have an awesome supportive partner. He's a great rat friend too. I've got a double unit Critter Nation, which is the best cage ever and I only wish I had TWO, but I have 6 rats and this cage is a mansion to them. They adore it, and have several hammocks, different boxes, paper bags, toys, tunnels, etc., which I switch up every few days to keep things clean. I use unprinted newsprint; the big pads you can get at art supply stores, since I always have extra around and it's great. The rats love it.
I have lots of cute ratty pictures on my Instagram/Imgur, and my mother and father see them all the time. They respect that I have them but they do not like them and I don't think they ever will. It's sad, but all I can do is give the rats the best lives with as much attention and love and brain stimulation as possible.
They've started to learn the floor is not lava. It's a full time job babysitting them since they want to explore, and the cats are terrified of them! Yet intrigued.
Tellin ya, I had pets as an adolescent and it was never right with my parents. I'm glad I waited.
Hi there. Congratulations on your new boys! I love Rex rats! I've been a ratty mom for over 12 years. I currently have 3 males, all dumbos, one of which is a Rex. The best advice I can give is to make sure to socialize your new babies and let them get used to you, your environment, as well as each other. (I'm glad to hear you got more than one!) Pouches are a great start for that, so you are definitely on the right track. I love playing around and interacting with my boys, but I also make sure to sit back and let them explore on their own, too.
Having a good cage is crucial. I recently got space pods and they love them! Having it be plastic instead of fabric cuts down on smell, too. I always make sure they have a bunch of things to chew on and play with. Make sure they have good bedding as well. I use recycled newspaper and crinkle paper.
Diet plays a big role. I feed my guys mostly Mazuri blocks and Oxbow with some vegetables (they love broccoli and frozen peas). I try to stay cognizant of treats, since they're mostly sugar and fat. (Males are prone to weight gain, so you gotta watch out.) Fruits work really well as a treat for training.
If you have any questions as you guys get adjusted, feel free to PM me.
(Also, sorry all the hyperlinks are to Amazon haha. It's what Google pulls up.)
Congratulations again :)
.1. Very young, probably a lionhead. A good rabbit-savvy vet will be able to give you a better age approximation. Check out the wiki for help picking out a good vet.
.2. It's likely that he's not old enough to potty train yet. When he is, check out the wiki for litter training advice. You will need a litter box (a medium cat one works well) and some rabbit-safe litter. I use Oxbow Eco-straw which can be ordered online from Amazon and most pet store websites. The easiest way to litter train a rabbit is to place the litter pan in the location they seem to pee most frequently. Then pick up stray poops/pee and put it in the litterbox and make sure to clean the other areas with white vinegar. If your rabbit chooses a different location to use the toilet, you are best off just moving the litterbox to that location. It's very difficult to get them to change their mind. Neutering will also help with litter habits once he's old enough.
Many rabbits "binky" when they are happy, but some do not. I generally consider a rabbit to be happy if they seem relaxed and unafraid. Some signs of this are exploring, telescoping (standing on hind legs), lying down in a "flopped" position (some rabbits flop all the way onto their sides, others prefer to lie on their bellies with their back legs sticking out). Some rabbits also express happiness by running around very fast.
Best to check out the wiki for instructions on picking up. Generally this should be avoided, but there are plenty of times where it's necessary.
You're unlikely to have much luck with a leash or harness. The rabbits that do well on these are the exception not the rule, but many rabbitors here are successful. I'd probably wait until he reaches adulthood for this though.
There are a lot of options for cages. I recommend this one for a single rabbit. While it's nice that some people can let their rabbits roam free, it's very difficult to 100% rabbit-proof. Do remember that they need plenty of time to run around and exercise. You wouldn't want to spend all day every day in your room and never come out, so make sure your bun gets to leave his. A big cage like this one is just fine though for when you are asleep or at school/work/etc. and can't be around to supervise.
.3. Do your research on the wiki, diet is very important, so is vet. This is my go-to hay supplier. I'd recommend starting with the sampler, then buying the larger boxes to save $$$. Also I see you've taken him outside for some grass. Be very careful to 1. watch out for hawks and other predators, never leave him unattended even for a minute and 2. don't let him eat anything that's been treated with pesticides or other stuff like that, could be very harmful.
Lastly, rabbits are very fragile animals. A lot of people on this sub jump to point out issues they see in pictures or questions because a lot of the time what seems like a little thing can be a very big problem for a rabbit. One good example is overfeeding of sweets. A rabbit can get sick and die from something as simple as eating too much carrot one night. So please, please, please, read up on stuff, do research, and if you aren't sure, ask or check for multiple good sources.
Howdy! First off, let me thank you for doing research before you pick up your rodent friend.
First off let me get the disclaimers out of the way: If you were looking for a cheap pet, you have chosen the wrong animal. Rats have a fairly high upfront cost that begins to taper down after the first 3 months or so once the major growth period is over with. Almost any attempt to cut costs on things I'll bring up as essentials is most likely going to end up as a bad move in terms of your pet's health. There are lots of places to save some money, but what I'll lay out here is not the place. Rats are also a very short lived pet. They will live for a reasonable maximum of 3 years, so there will be heartbreak down the road.
Still interested? Good. Let's get a list going then:
I would recommend a cage that is both long and wide rather than tall. While tall is nice so that they can have fun climbing, it is more important that they have wiggle and walking room. A cage with a larger area per floor will allow a lot more room to run, stretch, and play.
The best cages to buy are the ferret/critter nation cages. They are wide and long which allows plenty of room. If you're on a budget, a single layer will cost you about $150-$200, but it's well worth it. It comes with a base floor for your fuzzbutts along with a shelf for them to climb onto. Here's a link to it on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Critter-Nation-Single-Unit-Stand/dp/B0085W9CL8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1410383879&sr=8-3&keywords=critter+nation
If you have a bit more money to spend, I recommend going with the same thing, but the two layer cage. This will give them double the play room and satisfy their need to climb and explore. It's also not too tall, so you don't have to worry about them falling/jumping off. Here's a link to that one.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NJ0DAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I, myself, purchased the double layer cage along with an extra "attachment" layer on the top. I dedicated the bottom cage to pooping/eating, the middle layer to playing, and the top to sleeping. It takes up a good amount of space in my room (being a bit over 7 feet tall with all three layers), but my three carpet sharks love it, and it's got the durability to last you a lifetime. (:
I hope I've helped! Let me know if you have any more questions or concerns, and I would be happy to help the best I can!
The cage is too small. With boy pigs, you should have 10 square feet, but to do that you have to build a C&C cage.
Here's some info on cage sizes: https://www.guineapigcages.com/
And here's where they have their kits you can buy: http://www.guineapigcagesstore.com/standard-guinea-pig-cages
I have been making do with 8 square feet. Specifically, with the Midwest cage, which I bought through the rescue when I adopted my boys. I do want to get a bigger cage in the next few months, since my schedule has changed and I can't give them 3-4 hours of playtime every day anymore. But this is a better size than what you have and likely less money, and you can combine two to make a really big cage if you have enough floorspace.
https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8
What is your mom's specific reason for not wanting two guinea pigs? If it's expense, having two does not change the costs very much at all. If it's worry they won't bond with people, they still will. But people can't spend ALL their time with guinea pigs, and a cagemate will be there at all times and know how to speak guinea pig language. Pigs are happier, healthier, and braver with friends around. If it's that they won't get along, Hamlet should be fine with a boy from the same litter. OR you could still contact a guinea pig rescue and see if they do guinea pig dates, which is when you bring in your guinea pig and they put him with one of their guinea pigs in a neutral space to see if they'll get along. Note: They probably won't let you adopt a pig friend for Hamlet unless you can prove you have a big enough cage.
Even if you don't adopt from them, a local guinea pig rescue can be a good resource to tell you what vets they recommend and how to do certain things. Mine does nail trimmings, boar cleanings and simple health checks for free.
If your mom absolutely won't let you get a second pig, keep a close eye on Hamlet and see if he acts lethargic or depressed. He could get depression without a pig buddy, and there's nothing you can do to fix that except find him a friend.
Guinea pigs will pee during floortime, since they can only hold it for 10 minutes or so. Put stuff down to protect your floor, like fleece over a showercurtain. If you're doing laptime, they might get squirmy or start nibbling on you to tell you they need to go pee. They don't really like peeing on you, but accidents happen.
Good luck and enjoy Hamlet! Do your best to get him a bigger cage and a buddy. He'll be much healthier and happier with both. :)
I haven't got any experience with the cage you have, but it looks like a decent enough size for two females (I think nearly 8 sq feet?). I have two of these and I like them a lot.
However, with both cages, you are going to go through a LOT of paper bedding (I don't recommend any type of wood, generally). I go through 30 litres per cage, so basically one large bag of carefresh per week. If I didn't work at a pet store I don't think I could afford it. Because of the size, I'd recommend fleece bedding (with a u-haul moving blanket underneath). It's a bit more work, as you have to sweep it or shake it off every day, but it's so much more cost efficient.
As for the food, excellent choice :) Just check their bedding for any white urine residue - it means they're getting too much calcium in their diet, which is a common issue with the Ox Bow. I still like it better than other brands. I use their timothy hay as well as it seems to be the highest quality that I can find reliably. You can order it in 9 pound and 50 pound boxes on Amazon as well.
The only other thing I can think of to recommend at the moment is to have two water bottles and two food bowls. You don't want them fighting over resources. I'd recommend something like this for hay because it holds a lot more than most hay feeders I've seen.
Hope I've answered a few questions and good luck with the new piggies! They are amazingly fun little animals.
Hello!
Other advice:
-See if there's a ferret shelter near you and go visit! It's a great way to learn more and make sure ferrets are right for you.
-Ferrets should see the vet once a year and be vaccinated, so see if there are good ferret vets in your area. Vet bills can also add up (where I live, it's about $70 for the appointment and $25 for vaccination), especially since they may need emergency appointments or suprelorin implants later in life--it tends to add up.
-Ferrets are not like cats and dogs--their temperament and care is a lot different, so definitely make sure you enjoy their quirks before taking one home.
-Ferrets are poop machines, and they get into everything. They're great animals, but they also tend to be (lovable) troublemakers :)
Good luck!
Please keep in mind their basic upkeep such as hay, fleece bedding (if you use fleece, other bedding will be more), and food is pretty cheap, but medical care is NOT. Because cavies are exotics, their veterinary care is quite costly (some medications can cost up to $80 for just two weeks' worth, exams can range from $24 - $75, but that may depend where you live, it is very expensive where I live and I just live in a small area not even a big city). You want to have a savings for emergencies, trust me. You might get really lucky (some of mine have hardly had any issues, others a bunch especially as they aged), or you may end up with ones with genetic predispositions to medical issues (breeders actually breed health problems into some types, sacrificing health for appearances).
Cage wise, this cage would be good for a pair size wise, it is a little bigger than their regular one (which I cannot find for sale now) which is the minimum size for a pair that gets along well (a dominant pair would need more space) http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Interactive-Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1395980535&sr=1-1 . Too small of a cage and they are more prone to health issues as well as fighting. They are a social species, but even the most social animals need their space since they will be living together all the time.
As a first time owner, I would highly suggest adopting a bonded pair. A rescue that specializes in small animals or guinea pigs in general would be the best option since a good rescue will have them seen by a veterinarian and should have already bonded pairs. A good rescue will also take animals back at any point if you find yourself unable to keep them. You can find one through these sites (these are the ones I know about that list rescues);
http://www.guinealynx.info/rescues.html
http://www.guineapigzone.com/guinea-pigs/rescues
http://www.petfinder.com/ (this site also lists shelters that have guinea pigs)
Proper diet is crucial. Raw is the best but many ferrets are on kibble. With the exception of Wysong, ferret kibbles are no good. Many cat kibbles with the exception of a few are unacceptable as well. Stay away from Ferret brands like Marshalls, Mazuri, Dr Foster Smith, 8 in 1, Kaytee, Wild Harvest, Totally ferret, Zupreem, Dumor, along with anything that has rice, corn, wheat, barley, molasses. (I would name cat brands too, but again most of them are unacceptable to give. The major ones being Purina, Iams, and Meow Mix, Hills, Whiskas, these aren't even good for cats.) Ferrets are obligate carnivores which means they literally cannot digest or process anything other than raw meat organs and bones. Anything else that is or contains fruit vegetables salt sugar nuts dairy or carb of any kind especially rice, corn, or wheat is detrimental to their health. The absolute worse is anything with corn, rice, wheat, barley, molasses, potatoes or peas especially within the first few ingredients. Ferrets little bodies have to work so hard just process it. Raw is the best thing you can give, but lets stick to kibbles. When switching Kibbles ferrets need to be transitioned gradually to do so do a 1 to 4 ratio of new food too old and increase as you see fit. My boys were off Marshalls and on Wysong within 10 days. Please feel free to message me with any questions!
This new chart now contains totally ferret, I strongly recommend not using it due to rice being the third ingredient. It should only be used if absolutely necessary only if they have IBD or other food allergies.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vTvMXyhwVBu5TLnYSvGhqJqr_vE_-x_1BADF7dPwatwlB9l--m02ZN23FqvPNqp3v-n5cJyOuSssVfn/pub
Ferrets are very expensive family members, if you haven't already, start saving up now in case there's ever an emergency which there likely will be sometime in their life. It's important that you have a ferret knowledgeable vet, having an exotic vet is the bare minimum, often it's hard to find a good vet. Networking online is the best thing to do when trying to find a specialist near you.
Ferrets are very social creatures who develop close relationships with their humans. It is important they have companionship when your not around. They can even die from depression caused from loneliness. Ferrets THRIVE with a friend (or 2, or more!). When your not around you don't have to worry about your baby being home alone and lonely. There are also so many things a human can't do that another ferret can. You can never wrestle with them, chase them through tubes, or cuddle with them in a hammock. They live longer, happier, healthier lives with a buddy.
It's ideal if you can let ferrets free roam. Even if it's just a room (with time out of that room as well) If you must cage for part of the day the best cage is a Ferret Nation or Critter Nation. Anything smaller is just not enough room. They really need at least 2 solid floors to be able to stretch out on and relax on without fear of falling. Cages with just a bottom floor and floor panels not only do not have enough room, but are dangerous as a ferret could fall from the top to the bottom and break bones. Here, is the best cage you can get. It is well made, safe, easy to clean, and is the only cage on the market that's adequate amount of space.
https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-182-leak-Proof-Shelves-Measures/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538709394&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ferret+nation+cage&psc=1
there’s also different clear gates you can use to section off places or can even be put around a cage...
https://www.clearlylovedpets.com/dog-pens/
As for treats, raw meats, free dried treats, raw egg or just the yolks, or supplements such as salmon oil or Pickled Ferret Juice. Stay away from store bought supplements like ferretone, ferretive, ferretlax, ferrevite, they are all junk, salt, sugar, and bht a cancer causing preservative. There are some good freeze dried raw, I grind it up and make it into soupies...
https://www.chewy.com/stella-chewys-chick-chick-chicken/dp/129980?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Stella%20%26%20Chewy%27s&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtb_bBRCFARIsAO5fVvHe0TNfR1DlRu3orbYpqRy1kmq_kdrGzy0-2GbOusCdOEdXzMf4JYgaAlr9EALw_wcB
Pickled Ferret Juice.
http://etsy.me/2AiWUyz
Salmon oil
https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-Salmon-Oil-Supplement-Healthy/dp/B00WRAZ4CK/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1509819415&sr=8-13&keywords=grizzly+salmon+oil
No water bottles. Water bottles are intended for rodents. When ferrets are forced to chew on a metal rod they struggle just to get a drop and does permanent damage to their teeth. Like cats and dogs ferrets are naturally supposed to lap their water, and receive 60% more water intake when they are able to. Instead get a HEAVY bowl or one that can latch on to their cage.
Also no shredded bedding like you see them in at the petstore. Ferrets are prone to respiratory illness, the dust from those types of beddings can irritate their lungs and cause infection, also it can be ingested and cause a blockage. Ferrets are very clean animals and prefer blankets to cuddle in. Get lots of blankets (even an old t- shirts or sweaters will do)
Don't bathe more than twice a year. Bathing strips ferrets of their natural oils, therefore they have to overcompensate by making more and smelling worse. I prefer baby shampoo. Ferrets who enjoy water or have itchy skin can benefit from oatmeal baths, as long as soap isn't use it can be done more frequently.
Ferrets also need their nails trimmed (typically once a month) and should have their teeth brushed weekly.
https://www.amazon.com/Nuby-2-Pack-Oral-Massager-Toothbrush/dp/B008FONSQG/ref=sr_1_14_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1508618085&sr=8-14&keywords=baby+finger+toothbrush
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NJ0PEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541386629&sr=8-2&keywords=MaxiGuard+OraZn+Pet+Oral+Care%2C+2+oz.
Hey! I've owned several rabbits for the past 5/6 years.
The other commenter covered a lot of things already, but I'd like to add that having a rabbit health kit is extremely important. Since rabbits are considered exotic and require a knowledgeable vet, it can be hard to get them in right away if they are having an emergency, so its always best to be prepared. Their digestive system is very fragile, and they can easily have blockages if they aren't eating enough hay or if they happen to get into something.
I suggest keeping some bene-bac on hand just in case.
Litter training can be hit or miss. Some rabbits will naturally want to go in one corner, while others tend to mark their entire enclosure. Spaying and neutering can help a lot, but it isn't a complete guarantee that they will become litter trained. My rabbit is neutered and mostly uses the box, but will occasionally leave poops elsewhere just because he feels like it.
While on the subject of litter, I highly suggest using wood stove pellets. You can get them at a hardware store for $5 for a huge bag. They're odorless and untreated so they're safe for rabbits. If you decide to go for a commercial rabbit litter I would stay away from anything with corn in it, because if your rabbit decides to eat it, it could easily cause a blockage and be fatal.
Also, stay away from foods that have a lot of corn and other fillers in it. I use Oxbow because they have a lot of high quality feed and treat options.
Feel free to PM me if you ever have questions. I love rabbits and always like to help. :)
Edit: I forgot to mention, this is the cage I use (as well as an x-pen around it). Its absolutely massive and much cheaper than anything you'd find at a pet store. Definitely recommend it.
Hey there good job! You should be proud of yourself for having the adult conversation!
I wonder why does she not like the idea on a pen out of curiosity? - it's just it is soooo much cheaper and more space also.
Or a space out of NIC grids like this - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzS82KZ7ADo
These are easy to build and they won't be messy and you can have a top with NIC grids too in case she worries about jumping....
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To answer you question - If you must have a cage:
This one is the best as it is larger!
This and this are I guess decent... well better than nothing
The two story one is ok I guess.. but if you have that budget look here http://www.petwerks.com/condos.aspx
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But listen you guys have a good budget... why get a cage? get him a dog crate and set it up like this. It has all the benefits of a cage except it's a larger more appropriate size space and cost less than half of that tiny 2 story cage!
Or why not try this - it has both a cage and a pen and is so versatile :)
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Here are some premade housing options you can buy that are also apartment friendly:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/519136248/large-indoor-rabbit-cage-hutch-2x4-2x2?ref=shop_home_active_10&pro=1&frs=1 - great size and reasonable price, well made
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https://www.etsy.com/shop/DutchElves?ref=l2-shopheader-name – wonderful idea, clean and large
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https://www.etsy.com/shop/ClearlyLovedPets?ref=l2-shopheader-name - unconventional, but could be a nice large set-up that is also good looking for a modern space
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http://www.petwerks.com/condos.aspx - well made, fantastic size to space ratio, a bit on an investment
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Discuss these options with you mom. Maybe print out my comment and pictures of the links of show her on the computer. I mean well and just trying to help.
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But one thing is for sure is his current cage is at tiny as you say you have got to get him out - it's actually cruel to keep him in there!
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Very cute. But. Unless you have a roomful of those cages, you should really look into getting something bigger. The one in the background looks to be about 3 feet by 14 inches, which doesn't provide adequate space for a single piggy. Not at all a judgement. But 2 guinea pigs (I think I can see a second one in the background) should have 11 square feet of cage to share (16 will make them happier). It seems like a lot but it isn't with the right cages.
These are super cheap $32 a piece , and they attach to eachother easily and are 8 square feet each. Also free shipping, and for the time being no tax. http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homes-for-Pets-171GH/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373434177&sr=8-2&keywords=guinea+pig+cage (assuming you are in the States of Unitedness, not sure if other countries tax Internet purchases)
Most cages pet stores sell (as seen in the background) are really for hamsters, but they market them for chinchillas and G-pigs cause they know people will just trust what the box says.
Here's a good site for overall info:
http://www.cavyspirit.com/
In case you take this the wrong way, just think, "did I get these lovely animals for my entertainment without regard for their optimal happiness, or do I hold myself responsible to give them the best life I can provide?"
Now if by chance there is an amazing network of these cages that can't be seen in the background, I replace the previous paragraphs of potential pretentiousness with a high five and a request for a gallery of your cage setup.
Rats are wonderful little companions, and fairly easy to care for. Keep them happy and healthy, and they'll repay you by loving you like crazy.
This is a good guide that will help you understand what your rats are doing and why, and explains some of the ways rats communicate with each other and with you.
Here's a list of foods that are safe to give to your rats. Enriching your rats' diet with fresh fruits and vegetables is important to their health, and they love it. If you buy packaged treats from the store, make sure you get one that doesn't contain dried corn, as that can be harmful.
For their food, I recommend Oxbow brand. It's very good nutritionally, and my girls love the taste. For two rats, one bag will usually last several weeks.
For their cage, you'll want something that gives them plenty of space to go about their business. Generally, the rule is 2 cubic feet per rat. So for two, try to find something that's at least 4 cubic feet. Use paper bedding as opposed to wood shavings, as wood shavings can cause respiratory problems.
You should also get some accessories for the cage to keep them entertained, such as a house, a hammock, things to climb, and some toys. All can be found at most pet stores and is pretty inexpensive.
If you decide to go for it, I think you'll be very happy with rats. And if you do, be sure to share a picture of your new babies with us here!
Ah, thank you for all this information! I appreciate it.
To answer your questions:
Thank you for the lists, as well! I'm always looking for new foods that she might like. I heard kale was a rabbit's favorite, so I've been giving her that for a while now.
I never knew about baby gas drops either, very good information to have! I still have her syringes from when she had severe GI stasis around in case I ever need them again.
Her cage is the store bought, I bought the biggest I could find, which ended up being this. I removed the plastic insert with the stairs and made her a new hideaway in the cage that makes better use of space. My plan is to attach a dog play-pen sort of set up to the outside of the cage to expand her space, I've just been hemming and hawing over how best to get the set up working. Eventually I'd like to have a "bun room" that is all hers, but being in a studio for now if I can get a pen set up working for her I think she'll enjoy that.
Right now I'm working remotely most days of the week, so she gets a lot of time during the day to be out of her cage, and I try to ensure that she has that!
Thank you again for the advice!
Love her color makes her look like a teeny Syrian! She’s a dwarf so I don’t think I need to say anything about a wheel just don’t go super tiny. Make sure she has a proper size cage. Big cages are the best make sure its atleast 24” length 12” width and 12” height. Clear bins are good for you too see her I’d recommend! Cut holes in her lit so she can breath and can’t escape, either cut 60+ half an inch holes or cut a big square off the lid (if you have a cat or curious dog do the hole lid) do not use pine or cedar bedding. Any paper bedding is good I recommend carefresh (Cheaper on Amazon) do not use mesh wheels!!! Your ham will get hurt and get bumble feet not good. No bathing in water. It’s not necessary but it’s highly recommend to get sand for your hamster to bathe in, she’ll either roll around in it herself or you can hold her and give her a sand bath. I like most plastic wheels, wouldn’t recommend wooden wheels for a dwarf since my friend has a wooden wheel for her ham and he can’t even move it so she had to pay for a plastic one. Chews are good for her teeth so they don’t grow too long. Clip her nails if you can, if you can’t go to a vet when you notice them getting long. Plastic tubes and empty paper tubes are good boredom breakers. Clean the cage fully once a month with a one part water one part vinegar solution and change the bedding monthly. Lastly a hideout so she can scurry away. I’ll leave some links, good luck!
hamster care video
bin cage tutorial
If she’s not tame here’s a taming vid
hamster dont’s
bedding
chews
sand
hideout
boredom breaker/hideout
wheel
bin for bin cage
mesh top for bin cage
zip ties for bin cage
tube
Ok - one popular option is the Detolf DIY (turning the Detolf cabinet from IKEA into a large tank). This gives them a ton of floor space, but you'll need to construct a cover for it because a Syrian could climb out of it quite easily. Just go to Home Depot, cut some trim wood to size, and stretch some chicken wire across it. I'd recommend making two smaller frames so that they're easier to open -- lots of YouTube tutorials on this.
If you don't want to go the DIY/tank route, this cage (from Amazon) seems to get the best reviews for Syrians and is bigger than anything you could get in a pet store. I think if I were to buy a Syrian, this would be one of my top choices:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QRPAR2/
HOWEVER, that wheel doesn't look large enough for a Syrian. If you really want to spoil your ham, get it a nice wheel. The wheel needs to be 10" - 13" in diameter. Popular options are:
If the Savic Hamster Heaven is outside your price range, I've seen this one recommended as well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FH47MQ
You can also look at rabbit/guinea pig cages and just plan on making modifications. Usually the problem with these cages is the bar spacing is too large, so you would need to take some hardware cloth or chicken wire to make the cage more secure. You also want to find one with a solid floor (or create a DIY solid floor).
This is one I ALMOST bought the other week (I went with the Detolf instead because I adopted a tiny robo). But I think it looks really nice and it has good reviews from Syrian owners:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/New-Age-Pet-ecoFLEX-Park-Avenue-Indoor-Rabbit-Hutch/28263044
https://www.wayfair.com/pet/hd0/gregg-small-animal-habitat-modular-hutch-l1314-k~tkmp1856.html
(Seems to go by different names, but mainly "New Age Pet ecoFLEX Park Avenue Indoor Rabbit Hutch." Shop around a bit on that one - when I was thinking about buying it, it was $160 on Wal-Mart's site.)
Hey! Your new gerbils are very adorable :)
The cage you have now is a good starter cage, but should not be used for long term housing. Gerbils are desert animals, meaning they are better suited in an environment in which they can burrow. My suggestion is a simple 10 gallon tank for now. 10 gallons is the recommended size for two gerbils, 20 gallons for 3, you get the point. Just go to your local pet store and buy a 10 gallon tank and a tank lid (these should be in the reptile section). Then fill it with ASPEN bedding. Pine and Cedar are deadly to gerbils, because the dust from them will affect their respiratory systems. If you want, you can get a tank topper to expand the size of their cage like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Chew-Proof-Sm-High-Rise/dp/B0027J381U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406524528&sr=8-2&keywords=gerbil+tank
Gerbils will chew the living day light out of those plastic stairs, which they could ingest and have some serious medical consequences.
Something that you probably know, but is always good to reiterate, and is different for all gerbils, give them time to settle in. Lots of gerbil related fatal diseases are stress induced, so make sure they have a week or two to get situated, and then introduce yourself by hand feeding them treats, like pumpkin seeds.
Good luck with your new buddies. You'll love them as much as I love mine :)
When I boarded my girl rats at Andy's all four of them fit fine in that cage. Some stuff I'd recommend are get tons of Lava ledges so they can have different heights in the cage. They have Big ones and Small ones. The small ones are only available online now I think. My girls love to hop from one to another plus it will help file down their nails and teeth. I currently have 10 big ones and 8 small ones in my 2 cages. A hammock is great but you can also put a space pod in there too as another place to sleep or chill. I just got one for my girls but I'm waiting for a hammock to be chewed down before putting it in there. I also got The Bandit Bridge and my girls love that too. I mainly use it as a safety net in case they fall off one of the ledges. I'd rather have them land on a soft thing than the igloo or hard cage bottom. Basically I'm cutting the fall in half.
Also if you still want to get another cage I recommend The Rat Manor I have it and my girls LOVE it! It's big enough for 4 rats so 3 would fit perfectly plus it has a metal bottom so they can't chew holes in it. Other than that you seem to be on the right track. Just spend a lot of time with them and get them used to you kinda like a re-introduction to humans and they should turn out fine. They may have been scared of the kids and all the noise but it sounds like they should perk up to you in no time after they get used to their new surroundings. Good luck and keep us posted!
How big is the apartment? Is their enough room for a cage like this- https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OcmSCb4PNDRJP
You’ll want a cage similar to this, there are some cheaper ones around.
You should also keep back money for emergency vet visits, they can be expensive.
I’m probably leaving a lot of stuff out so if you have any questions, feel free to ask :) I can suggest certain cages, toys, litter and so on...
Breeding can produce some very heavy-set and overall large syrians. It really depends on their genetics. Breeders that pump out for pet stores tend to produce small syrians, and breeders that sell out of a passion for hamsters instead of $ tend to give big chonky girls and boys. 141-180 grams is around average, but they can get up over 220 grams towards 300 grams. My smallest boy is 133 and my girl is at 183, whereas the other three boys are all around 160.
Fluffier syrians can also come off as massive chonks when they really aren't -- My long haired Boo Bear looks like a fuzzy sausage chonker even though he's the second skinniest weightwise, after my skinny Moose. He beats out the others for chonk appearance easy.
A good way how to tell if they're overweight is to watch their attitude and normal behavior during activities. A fat hamster tends to be lethargic, grumpy, and doesn't get much use in on their exercise objects. If they don't fit on their wheel, or the wheel is made out of an uncomfortable material like mesh, they can decide not to use it. Also one thing to keep in mind as hamsters get older they can also become arthritic, which can affect their interest in exercise.
Since you've said she's got a small cage and wheel, he could probably do with an upgrade. You can buy a 50 gallon sterilite bin for like 25 bucks from Walmart, and that's a nice spacious set up for a syrian. I supply mine with 12 inch wheels and they do just fine on them, even the little guy. You could also get a large saucer for him as a secondary activity/exercise toy.
If he's not a climber, you can get some rainbow playpens like these for him to have some free roam space in if you don't have any hamster proof areas for him to play in. If you can keep an eye on him and he's not the kind to immediately try to chew his way to freedom, folding playpens like these also work great. We stick our syrians in the folding playpen and they have more than enough room to have zoomies in while loading them up with toys and whatnot, and haven't had any issues with them trying to climb up the sides.
Personally, I wouldn't get a rat from a pet store. As others mentioned, they tend to have more health/behavioral problems. They live in glass tanks, after all. I've gotten all but 1 of my rats from craigslist, usually somebody has an "oops" litter and sells the babies. (yes, they "sell" them because people looking for snake food can often find feeder rats for free). I got Hercules from a pet store because he was like, returned to them and they were trying to adopt him out. I couldn't stand seeing him in a 10-gallon tank, watching everyone walk by him and dealing with kids banging on the glass. He was very young and adorable so I had to have him. :3
As for products, I recommend a plastic igloo or 2 because you can wash and re-use them. My rats don't chew on them but I can't speak for every one. I make most of their toys and hammocks, though. You can go to stores like Jo-Ann Fabrics and they have a "remnants" section with rolls of fleece for 50% off!!
I also buy their food from pet stores. I use Kaytee Healthy Support Diet (nutritional lab blocks) and pick the green things out because it gives them diarrhea. I wouldn't recommend the seed mixes you see at pet stores, they're very fattening and don't have a lot of nutrition. Wood chews and stuff are fine but my rats never touch them. They prefer toilet paper tubes, etc.
Right off the bat, I would say SPLURGE ON A BIG CAGE. You will thank me later. I bought a shitty $30 cage on craigslist for my first rats and it was a living hell to clean. Best choice is a Critter Nation cage. Huge doors that open the whole cage are amazing.
Most people cover the shelves in fleece and potty train their rats to use a little litter box in the corner. I never had the patience, so I replaced the bottom shelf with a concrete mixing bin and fill it with paper bedding, and the top shelf is wrapped in fleece.
This was way longer than I expected but good luck! Make sure if you get more than one that they're all boys or all girls. (duh :p)
As other people have said, ferret cages might have spaced big enough for smaller rats to escape.
I would definitely advise getting a Critter Nation cage: http://www.dog.com/item/critter-nation-small-animal-cage-single-unit/650231/?srccode=GPDOG&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplp9000136&gclid=CjwKEAjwu6a5BRC53sW0w9677RcSJABoFn4sXRfeqmFuLS7H4CZT3h2S5W9aCENq2GcHJ_-XIfSsxhoCNhbw_wcB
Google it and go to shopping results. That's how I got mine for the low low price of $112, and that was including shipping! It's a great investment.
Pretty much anything you need for your boys you can get online: lab blocks, hammocks, chews, toys, litter boxes, etc.
I have three boys. They're not that smelly, honestly. They smell a little sweet sometimes, like cheerios and faint pee.
They're litter box trained, but occasionally miss or whiz outside their box. These are the boxes I have: https://jet.com/product/detail/fa77c55e49b84b21ad3482352a86bba8?jcmp=pla:ggl:gen_animals_pet_supplies_a3:pet_supplies_cat_supplies_cat_litter_boxes_a3_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&ds_c=gen_animals_pet_supplies_a3&ds_cid&ds_ag=pet_supplies_cat_supplies_cat_litter_boxes_a3_other&product_id=fa77c55e49b84b21ad3482352a86bba8&product_partition_id=161833679820&gclid=CjwKEAjwu6a5BRC53sW0w9677RcSJABoFn4snBzuFx8FUS2MnG0nvpNFwX7W3F7WqPO-I91Zrx3ygBoC62Pw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
The messiest things they do are leaving lab block crumbs everywhere, missing the litter box, or chewing up a towel or napkin they got a hold of. Occasionally poops/litter fall out of the cage, especially when you clean it.
I have my cage floor covered in an old towel, with fleece on top. A couple of times a week I sweep out crumbs/chewed up mess/ stray poops with a mini broom and dustpan. If you're lazy, use a vacuum cleaner.
For full cleans, I vacuum the floor fleece, all their hideouts and hammocks, and their scraps of loose fleece they use for blankets to clean up loose mess. Then pick up the towels and fleece, shake em out like a rug outside if they're still dirty, and throw em in the washer. Wipe down the cage surfaces with baby wipes or pet cleaner. Lay down another towel-fleece later for another week or week and a half, and repeat.
Be sure to supply plenty of hideaways, hammocks, boxes, space pods (http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ)
etc. for them to sleep/cuddle/hide in.
Good treats are (most) fruits, non-sugary cereals like cheerios, nuts, pasta, pretty much anything you'd consider "healthy and natural". Occasional FrootLoops or dollops of ice cream won't hurt them either. I pretty much always share whatever I'm eating with those cute little faces.
As mentioned before, lab blocks are what you should feed ideally. They're specially formulated to have the perfect percentage of each amino acid and the right amount of fiber, etc. Plus lab blocks make their poops almost odorless! I use Harlan Teklad (also known as Native Earth, apparently) 2016 formula, which I get from "The Crafty Rat" online store: https://www.thecraftyrat.com
It's pretty cheap since you can buy in bulk, and each 5 lb bag lasts a month or more.
Of course always have water in bottles available. I get the big 30 Oz critter sipper bottles from Walmart. Make sure to hang up a couple in their cage in case one leaks all out or gets clogged.
Lab blocks should keep their teeth worn down, but you can give them cardboard, wooden bird toys, lava ledges, or even deer antler to chew on. Mine pretty much never chew anything, but they love this and literally chew it to pieces: http://www.petswarehouse.com/8-in-1-wild-harvest-chewable-log-small/?gclid=CjwKEAjwu6a5BRC53sW0w9677RcSJABoFn4sQZZwP2wwvkg7wnxX5FVDadNP4EDvK9dXv3l505RAuRoC5cjw_wcB
It shouldn’t be, they’re naturally very social! The best way to introduce a second would be to look into the split cage method. If you can, separate the tank in half using wire - like a mesh screen or part of an old hamster cage - so that they can see and smell each other but not touch. You keep them like that for a while until they are comfortable and in the meantime swap toys between each side or even swap which side each critter is on until they’re comfortable with the scent.
If you can, a bigger enclosure is always better, but my girls did just fine in a 10gal for a while before I was able to upgrade. A cheaper way to get more space is a cage topper - something like this, I’ve used this one and found some similar in stores for around $20 USD. You can put the wheel and food up there and give them more room at the bottom for deeper bedding, they love to tunnel!
On that note Carefresh is a great bedding. Some people like to mix in aspen wood chips or Timothy hay for a little variety.
Your lil dude may or may not use the wheel, some gerbils love them and others are indifferent. I’ve found wooden wheels to be loud but the thinner plastic ones are chew hazards. I’m using a silent runner now (not silent spinner!) which, though still plastic, is thicker with a metal base and no exposed axle, and is extremely quiet
With the wheel I would just watch. If his back is bend while running then you should get a bigger one, otherwise it's fone. If you're worried with him flying out of the wheel, there are wheels where the side is closed and only some holes are in it so that the hamster can climb in but not so easily fall out :) like this, for example (it's bigger than you need, but it's just so I can illustrate what I mean xD) https://www.amazon.com/Wodent-Wheel-Senior-Tail-Shield/dp/B01MRWR7MQ
As for the sunflower head:not really. Any dried sunflower head should do. You should be able to get them from your local pet store in the aisle for birds. Oh and if your already there, grab some flax. Trust me, your hamster will go crazy for it. It's like cat mint, only that it's hamsters favourite snack xD
The sand you have sounds good. I just overlooked your sand bath 😅 Thank you for caring so much about your hamster. He will have a lovely home ❤
Not to be a jerk, but on the subreddit information bar there is the 'care' section with Basic Care, Example Cages, Diet Basics, and Commercial Food Discussion that should get you started.
You'll want to read through What to expect from your hedgehog and ask your breeder what they use/recommend and where they get it from. If you're going through a pet store you'll likely get little to no information worth having.
For a basic run-down I'd recommend:
Please note that these are bare minimums and are the easiest to find, but not necessarily the best options. You might find your hedgie is an explorer and needs a bit more room, or you want to litter train your hedgie and you'll need some litter and a corner pan (please read up as hedgies have their own requirements for litter). You might find your hedgie is a runner and needs a Carolina Storm Wheel. Maybe your hedgie is a digger and fleece isn't going to work out (diggers tend to wreck their cages and flip food bowls if you're using fleece liners). You'll need treats, food, and make sure you have a vet that works with hedgehogs within an acceptable driving distance.
For my hedgie's room in the winter I use something like this. So I can make sure the room stays at 72 at all times.
Best of luck to you and your new hedgie. Once you get everything set up they're pretty low-maintenance, but if you don't start out right you'll risk your pet's health in the long run.
Good questions!
Gender doesn't matter if they're all fixed, they all get along just fine, they all have really individual personalities. I found the same is true with age, I'm guessing unless one ferret is really old and doesn't want to deal with a hyper baby. But if yours is less than a year, any age should be fine. I had a lazy only-weasel until he was 1yr then got him a hyper little kit.. he was annoyed at first, but now they love each other and play all the time.
If you're getting a new cage, I recommend the ferret nation double-decker. You can section off the top and bottom for a while to keep them seperate in the beginning when they're not being supervised, and when you're sure they get along they'll both have a nice big cage.
When you say your ferret attacks the cat, do you mean playfully? lol
Ferrets are not generally territorial, but I think with most animals it's better to introduce them in a neutral territory so they're not defensive off the bat, so putting them both in a new cage would be a good plan regardless I think.
I think the only difference with getting another 1 vs 2 is the litter box training.. harder to keep track of two new fluffs running around!
Good luck!
When we decided to upgrade cages for our guys, we went with the Midwest Critter Nation double unit. It's made by the same folks who make the Ferret Nation and is almost identical, except that the bars have less space between them and run horizontally rather than vertically, making them better for smaller animals and easier to add accessories to.
It's been absolutely tremendous for them. One of our boys, Harvey, is also missing one of his front paws, and he runs about without any trouble. The Critter Nation has two main levels and two "half" levels, all of them solid and of a hard plastic that the boys haven't tried to chew on (I know, amazing - but there doesn't seem to be any reason to swap them out for metal, surprisingly). The ramps that reach from level to level come with fleece covers, so there's no chance of a paw slipping between rungs.
Here's a pic of the boys giving the Critter Nation a test drive before we moved them in. They've been in it for several months now and absolutely love it.
We had planned on buying ours through Amazon.com, then found one in our local PetSmart at an amazing price one day and brought it home, just like that. (Someone must have bought it online and returned it to the store or something - I don't think they usually carry them in-store, so we lucked out and didn't have to pay for shipping!)
Anyhow, I highly recommend this model for your three chinchillas. It has plenty of room for living, sleeping, and exercising and is safe for the boy with the missing paw. It was the best decision we ever made for our chins. :)
Hi! This is owner of Penelope #2, girlfriend of the other Redditor who posted :)
I am no expert but I have done my fair share of reading on this forum and also this one and here are some things I've learned:
Definitely get a heat source! They are supposed to be kept very warm, Penny's cage is always about 78-80 degrees, and I've read that a range of 74-82 is acceptable. I use a space heater that has a temperature setting that turns off when it gets to the right temp, which has worked really well for me! They can go into hibernation if their cage is any cooler than 74... Penny has attempted hibernation a couple of times and it's scary, and I imagine pretty bad for their health! They get all sluggish, won't uncurl from a ball, and are cold to the touch- definitely not good for them.
As far as food goes, I would recommend a mix of good quality cat foods --depending on the type, hedgehog food can actually be really bad for them if it has things like corn products and meat by-products. I feed Penny a mix of Innova Low Fat Adult Cat Food, Wellness Indoor Health Adult Cat food, and Sunseed Hedgehog food. I've read that the most important thing to look at what the first couple of ingredients are... Meat products and meat meal products. You should really try to avoid any cat food that has meat by-products and corn products, especially in the first couple of ingredients. I think the protein content is suppossed to be around 30-34%, and fat is supposed to be less than 13%? I think young hedgehogs are supposed to have a diet that is slightly higher in fat though, so definitely something to look into :)
Get her a wheel! You'll be amazed how much she will run every night... I have this one, which is good for little hedgehogs because their feet/toenails can't get caught in anything.
Oh! And for bathing... I like to use oatmeal because it's supposed to be good for their skin. I just put some in a sock and let it soak in the water with a couple drops of flax seed oil.
Enjoy the little thing!
Common cages you’ll see recommended are the Critter Nation and Martin’s cages. For a good quality, new cage you can probably expect to pay around $110 to $250. Most people on this forum are huge CN fans - it’s a HUGE cage, with wide/accessible doors, and is basically a sturdy free-standing piece of furniture. You can get a single unit now, and if you end up getting more rats (which you very well might!) you can get an add-on unit! Potential downsides to the CN are the lack of deep pans (you basically have to use fleece, or create/buy deep pans). It’s extremely heavy, and takes up a lot of floor space. Even though the wide doors make it easy to reach inside, it is filled with hollow parts that trap water and easily rust. In order to deep clean it, you’ll have to take it apart, clean, and dry each component - you shouldn’t just hose it down.
I currently have a Martin’s Cage, and I do love it. You should get an R-680 or larger and get the powder coated version. I love the deep pan for bedding, how light/transportable it is, the fact it doesn’t take up my limited floor space, and especially that I easily rinse it in my shower and don’t worry about rust. I don’t have a washing machine so using fleece would end up being pretty pricey.
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If you are thinking of using fleece, don't really need to frequently transport the cage, or will likely get many rats, then CN might be the best way to go for you! For my situation the Martin's Cage is working wonderfully :)
I think a lot of things are kind of up to your rat's preference. I wouldn't bother buying a wheel unless you knew they loved it because most rats don't care about running on wheels. I'd invest in a Sputnik because it's universally loved by rats. https://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ You'll need some sort of bedding. I've put fleece covers down and litter box trained my rats. I tried all sorts of bedding but I really ended up liking Aspen shavings (which is the only safe wood for rats because the others give off scents that irritate their breathing). PVC pipe joints are good for them to run through and hide. http://www.allrightmachinery.com/pvc/pipe-fitting2.jpg My rats like Lava ledges to climb on and this helps wear down their claw without clipping. https://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Lava-Ledge-Assorted-Colors/dp/B00176F466 Also put some bricks near their water/food bowl to help whittle their nails down too. Binder clips and safety pins are your friends for hanging things. A ton of my stuff is from the dollar store so I can just throw it away when it gets really disgusting/torn up. And plenty of soft fleece pieces/fabric scraps for them to snuggle and nest in. Save any cardboard boxes you can because they love playing in them.
Sure! Here is a crappy webcam picture of the rabbit room: http://imgur.com/bp8Gaj8 Apologies for the mess; Sunday is the day I usually clean the bunny room and I haven't done it yet this evening. You can see Scout, the black bun, in her x-pen (the x-pen is kind of in the middle room so there are other toys/another litterbox for Rory and Cyril on the other side) and Rory, the broken bun, hanging out on the right. The cage running along the back is the guinea pig cage. It is two of these attached to each other in a straight line: http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homes-for-Pets-171GH/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425870229&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest+guinea+pig+cage (Cyril is in the living room and didn't make the photo.) There is a cat tunnel running between the x-pen and the guinea pig cage.
In terms of what is different: it's just basically the level of time, attention, and care that the rabbits need versus the guinea pigs. So, for example, both guinea pigs need unlimited grass hay. Nominally, then, that is the same. But my bunnies are SUPER picky and will go through the hay and pull out all the bits they don't like and put it in the litterbox and pee in. My guinea pigs just eat their damn hay. So the guinea pigs maybe need their hay refilled once or twice a day. For my rabbits, keeping hay in their hay racks is basically a full time job (and we have lots of big hay racks; we're not shy in that department). The level of exercise and interaction they need is a lot greater. Their capacity for destruction is MUCH greater-- the worst thing my guineas have ever done is pee on my lap (rabbits don't do that, though, which is nice, haha). They need more toys and more toy rotation so they don't get bored and tear up the carpets. And, so far, my experience is that their medical needs have been higher. My guinea pigs are five and have been to the vet for a single sebacious cyst + routine check ups, whereas my buns have had to go to the vet quite a few times in a shorter period of time, so having an emergency vet fund is definitely a really good idea (it's a good idea anyways, but even more important).
It's more work, more money, and a lot easier to let buns take over your life.
I hope this doesn't sound really discouraging-- I can't even imagine my life without bunnies anymore. You get a huge amount of love from them. There is nothing better than having a bunny hop on the bed and sit on your chest to watch Netflix with you. They follow you everywhere. And they are so interactive and full of personality.
If I am scaring you too much: One option that may be available to you depending on where you live is to foster for a rabbit rescue, which will give you a much better sense of what life with bunnies is like, with an easy out if it is too much.
...bunnies are really great, though.
My Syrian hamster has been very happy in this cage for the entire first year of his life so far. After a few days of exploratory climbing he has not once chewed on his bars or ever acted stressed because he wants out of his home.
30.5 x 8.5 x 18.5 inches:
http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Habitat-Multi-Level-Exotics-18-Inch/dp/B00CETSHN2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Excersize:
I recommend purchasing a Wodent Wheel 11inch http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JD8I2Y/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005Y41UPQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1JBB5ENE1BEBPRFYR6JR
and Flying Saucer 12 inches : http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Flying-Saucer-Exercise-4-Inch/dp/B001AT62H0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462212985&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=flying+saucer+hamster+11+inch
Bathing and Natural Nail Trimming:
Also pick up some flat Reptile Rocks for underneath his water bottle so he will trim his nails naturally and a large ceramic bowl (needs to be deep not so much wide) filled with Repti Sand Desert White (No Calcium) http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSand%C2%AE-Pounds-Desert/dp/B0002DIZKC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213181&sr=1-1&keywords=desert+white+repti+sand
My hamster is a fan of these Apple Orchard sticks for teeth filing though his lab blocks are semi hard and also good for dental health trimming.
http://www.amazon.com/SuperPet-Apple-Orchard-Sticks-Pieces/dp/B001CCXMP0/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213890&sr=1-2&keywords=apple+wood+sticks
After you get those things pick up this item as a natural grass burrow for him to sleep in and clean his cage once every week. Plastic burrow are just awful for air circulation, and my hamster never liked them at all when i didnt know any better.
http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Nature-Willow-Grass-Small/dp/B001ATBMCU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
For food I feed my hamster Higgins Sunburst and Kaytee Forti Diet Lab blocks everyday with fresh fruit and veggies every two days. Remember your hamster stomach is the size of your pinky finger nail so portion small. He loves 3-4 lab blocks a day with a small spoonful of nuts, seeds and fruit from the Higgins. Remember though 3 Sunflower Seeds max a day or they will get fat and unhealthy.
http://www.amazon.com/Higgins-Sunburst-Gourmet-Hamsters-Gerbils/dp/B009GHII5W/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213536&sr=1-1&keywords=higgins+sunburst
Looks like this but for Hamster not rat and mice:
http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Forti-Health-Mouse-5-Pound/dp/B001VJ56Z8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462213507&sr=1-1&keywords=kaytee+forti+hamster
For bedding you want UNSCENTED (it messes with their respiratory system if its scented) this Kaytee Clean and Cozy is what I use. Absorbs liquid good and keeps the smell down if its close to cleaning day.
http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Clean-Cozy-Small-Bedding/dp/B015MJB8PO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462214215&sr=1-2&keywords=kaytee+bedding
and last but not least. Buy TWO water bottles in case one of them jams overnight you DO NOT want your hamster to suffer from dehydration. They do not need much water, but when they need it, they need it fast or will get sick quick. The kaytee water bottles have issues with the spout pointing straight so buyer beware. They often dont align properly into the cage bars. But they do work and dont leak for me. Stick with GLASS water bottles, it just tastes better honestly. 6 ounces if you will change the water daily. 12 ounces if you are not as attentive.
http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-SSR61982-Animal-Bottle-12-Ounce/dp/B007TUNWM2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1462214981&sr=8-4&keywords=kaytee+water+bottle
It seems like a lot of money at first and it is but this hamster will be your new furry friend and relies on only you to care for it, so give it the best and longest life possible. You will have one happy hamster if you get all that and will never need to upgrade anything when your Syrian grows bigger.
The only toy we've bought that they consistently like is the teach and treat. The willow tents you can get at various shops are pretty awesome too.
We have bought stuff from napoleon bunnaparte before, and these can be fun too but we usually just make throw toys ourselves. The Maze Haven from binky bunny is pretty neat too, but also something you can make on your own.
We buy hay from a local farm, along with fresh cut willow branches. Some rabbits also love fresh apple tree branches, which you can buy on ebay.
90% of the time it seems like rabbits willingly choose old mainstays like "Phone Book", "paper towel tube", and "cardboard box" over anything store bought :)
I know others have said this but the wire floor is bad for their feet which is probably why he doent leave much. It sounds like he is depressed. Does he have a friend? It is a myth that boys cant live together. If you wanted to get him a friend all you really have to do is get a baby and make sure they have a cage that fits the minimum (8sq feet) the midwest cage is great for this. I will leave a link to it.
https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-Cage-MidWest-Inches/dp/B001NJ0DPY
Also look up c and c cages these are also great.
Hope that helps.
Also I agree with others that guinea pigs need alot of space but it is all ground level space one level is best .
You mention her previous home was not caring well for her, so I'm just going to say right away that the situation you have her in does not sound any better. Absolutely do not keep her outside in the winter, since that does not sound like a safe or sustained temperature environment. It is way too risky. Guinea pigs as pets are generally indoor animals, so I'm curious why she wasn't living inside to begin with. An outdoor space can work so long as the enclosure is closed off, protected from weather and you can maintain the temperature at around 65-75 degrees. Much higher or lower and you risk death. A reasonably sized indoor cage (such as this Midwest Habitat, anything much smaller than this is highly discouraged) is relatively inexpensive. Furnish it with your choice of bedding (I personally recommend fleece), a hidey house or two, a food dish, hay rack and a water bottle (keep in mind she may not drink from it consistently, more on this in the next paragraph). Any working individual should be able to reasonably afford this.
Concerning food, does she have anything else besides the one carrot per day? Guinea pigs should have a constant supply of hay (usually timothy hay if they're adults), pellet food (preferably with vitamin c as they do not naturally produce it) and water, either in the form of a bottle or fresh vegetables at the very least. Ideally they also have about half a cup of fresh vegetables per day, minimum. Romaine or Green Leaf lettuce is most commonly used to fulfill this requirement, along with green bell peppers (high in vitamin c and ample source of water). Avoid Iceberg lettuce as it is mostly water and has very little nutrional value for them.
She's likely shy because the previous owner(s) did not interact with her much, and again by your own description, you aren't really doing this either if your only daily interaction is giving her a carrot. Moving her to a more cozy indoor space where she is around and can see people would be a great quality of life improvement for her by itself. Not to mention this would make interacting with her much easier and more convenient compared to her being alone outside. One thing I will say here is that often times guinea pigs are not like dogs and cats in that they will usually warm up to you relatively quickly. In fact the warming up process could take months or even a year+ in some cases, so be mindful of this. However, from my own experiences, the more often you interact with them, the quicker this process is. Start off simple by offering food directly from your hand until she feels comfortable enough to come and take it from you consistently and go from there.
As someone else pointed out, guinea pigs generally do better in pairs. Look into getting her a friend (of the same sex) and read up on bonding techniques. Financially, this is a relatively negligible difference compared to only having one.
Lastly, here are a couple of links with practically everything you need to know in regards to guinea pig care, check the sidebars on the left for various topics:
http://guinealynx.info/healthycavy.html
https://www.cavyspirit.com/
LA Guinea Pig Rescue on Youtube (check the playlist tab for a more categorized version)
Hey! Sounds like you have definitely started on some good research! Your mom should not have to worry about rabies with your hedgie, unless it has access to wildlife, like raccoons and possums. Your hedgie should be kept indoors or supervised when outside, so I can't forsee there being any issues. A lot of people build their own cages, but I prefer this one here. In fact, that is the type of cage I have had since I got mine five years ago. I would recommend, however, that you use fleece blankets to line the cage instead of woodchips. I don't forsee it being a problem with a female, but a male hedgehog can absolutely get woodchips stuck in their penile shafts. Mine is blind, so his cage is pretty bare, but for a healthy hedgie, I would keep a wheel, an igloo or something for him to hide in, toys (I used kitty kongs, and little jinlgy cat toys that looked like ping pong balls).
There are a lot of good resources on this website. It has everything from what to feed, how to build cages, veterinarians that have knowledge of hedgies in your area, and the like.
The biggest key is to give your hedgie lots of time to adjust to you and warm up to you. Some of them take a lot of time to be socialized, and sometimes it just isn't going to happen. Some of them just have a pretty grumpy disposition. I bathe mine every couple of months, but I let him walk around in some warm water more frequently than that to wash off his "poopy boots".
I feed mine cat food (Purina One Chicken & Rice), but there are a variety of options. You can treat them with mealworms and other little snacks. Hedgehog Central really was the most useful source for me, though, when I was considering purchasing my baby.
If you don't have a space pod yet, that's a loved toy by rats.
http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1456948317&sr=8-2&keywords=space+pod
My rats love to chew, so I get them a box of kid's wood blocks. I make sure that they are non-toxic. http://www.amazon.com/Melissa-Doug-100-Piece-Wood-Blocks/dp/B000068CKY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1456948355&sr=8-3&keywords=wood+blocks
This is from ebay because it's vintage... but my rats love this ark, and it's fairly easy to clean as it unscrews.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-Little-Tikes-Toddle-Tots-Noahs-Ark-Elephant-Giraffe-Sheep-Cow-Noah-Mrs-/182035576604?hash=item2a622a771c:g:fKIAAOSw5dNWhT6u
We got our "crate" at a garage sale. Fairly easy to clean and a favorite hide.
http://www.amazon.com/Battat-68029AM-Dalmatian-Vet-15-Piece/dp/B000BKGM1K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456948605&sr=8-1&keywords=toy+dog+crate
Orb of Solitude - Usually only one rat can fit inside at a time. We've never had a problem with a rat getting stuck. They seem to know when they've outgrown the small holes, but do keep an eye on them. http://www.amazon.com/Rhino-Toys-Oball-Colors-Vary/dp/B000ETREBK/ref=pd_sim_21_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51gJTFCLf3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=11DD9ESJMT8P92RTW2RQ
Is she chewing the cardboard or actually eating it? If she insists on consuming her toys, I'd say the best bet is to get hay based toys, or something she can't eat, like plastic jingle balls. Since she is digging at the carpet, it sounds to me like she might be a bunny who prefers digging toys. You could try a cardboard box filled with hay, like on its side so she can dig in it, and extra hay is good for her. I was going to recommend paper in the dig box, but since it seems she might be eating it, not a good idea. Try it with the hay. Hard plastic toys, should be pretty safe.
Also, I had a super picky hay eater, who used to get bouts of GI stasis frequently. It mainly had to do with her not eating enough hay I think, and she also gets into everything(so not sure). However, since I switched her hay around by better quality, offered more variety of hay, and just overwhelmed hay volume, we haven't had any trouble since with stasis. My Bugs is also a voracious chewer/shredder, and digger, and one thing I realized was she was so smart she needed more stimulation. Maybe your bunny would prefer some interactive toys that you and him could play together? I have all of the plastic toys below for her, ironically the dumb jingle ball is her one of her favorite. She pushes it all over the house. Sorry for all the giant links, just trying to give you an idea. Hope this helps!
http://myhouserabbit.com/rabbit-behavior/enrichment-for-your-pet-bunny/
http://myhouserabbit.com/rabbit-behavior/how-to-deal-with-chewing-digging/
https://www.amazon.com/Living-World-Teach-Treat-Toy/dp/B004HYW9B8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1505090360&sr=1-1&keywords=teach+and+treat
https://www.amazon.com/WHEEKY-Guinea-Pets-Adjustable-Opening/dp/B01BHCFRUM/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1505089926&sr=8-14&keywords=hard+plastic+ball
https://www.amazon.com/Water-Multi-Plastic-Hollow-Jingle/dp/B00O0NW2FE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1505090055&sr=8-6&keywords=hard+plastic+jingle+toy+ball
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=6067+28211+24116&pcatid=24116
Okay, lessee.. note: info overload coming..
Good bedding types are 100% recycled cat litter, there are only a few which don't contain harmful phenols, those are back2nature, yesterday's news and carefresh. Carefresh should be frozen beforehand to kill any possible mites. Don't use wood shavings/chippings, most are made from pine and that's harmful to the babes.
Don't use shampoo with them, if you must, get pet shampoo that doesn't contain phenols. I haven't actually washed mine and I've had them 7 months. Girls don't get very smelly and groom themselves. I occasionally add a small drop of pure olive oil to their food which keeps their fur shiney. You can add a drop directly to their fur, rub it in and they'll groom it out. The best way to keep them clean, is to teach them to go pea-fishing :D Start off with a small container with a small bit of water and build up from there. Always let them approach the water themselves and entice them with peas.
Don't feed them too many naughty treats, they're actually really easy to treat, my girls will do anything for a bit of chicken and they love peas.
Their diet.. now this is a tricky one. Lots of fresh veg, a small bit of fruit and a small bit of protein and lots of cereal. There's any number of commercial feeds you can get, others can advise which are best, we don't get the good ones in my country. The pet shop you got them from.. eh... know nothing, sorry. Bird food and moist dog food are a horrible diet for rats! The seeds have no nutrients and the dog food has too much fat and protein (you might find they have runny poo because of it). The best bet is to make up your own. I feed my brats a version of the Shunamite diet. The Rat Lady's and Suebee's also come highly recommended.
Random other things you can feed them, any meats or fatty foods should be given sparingly: hard boiled egg (crack the shell to get it started, then watch the mayhem), cooked chicken bones, cooked plain chicken, fresh veg, tinned tuna, porridge made from water, mealworms, yoggies. Things to avoid: apple seeds, citrus fruits, uncooked sweet potato, soda, milk. This is not a definitive list. If I'm giving my babes something new I will generally google it first, which recently stopped me from giving them asparagus (apparently it makes their pee stink!).
Okay, what else.. TOYS! You don't need a wheel, but if you get one, go for a closed wheel with no gaps, ie: something like this. If you get the normal metal one their tails could get trapped. My girls get a lot of homemade toys, they love the inner rolls of toilet paper. If you give them some with the tissue still attached, they can use it as bedding. They love hammocks, there's so many ways to make them.
From your pics, they look a bit startled and are hiding in the corners, it might be an idea to give them some sort of shelter (a cardboard box) until they get used to their surroundings. This is a great guide in how to socialise them, basically, yoghurt on a metal spoon.
Oh, and did you know, rats can't vomit. So.. when you give them something new, they'll nibble a tiny bit, then go away and wait, if it doesn't make them sick, they'll come back and eat it. So, if your babes don't seem to be trying anything new, give them some time, that's just their natural instincts coming through!
Lastly, did you know you can litter train rats. Look for some youtube vids, but basically, use a different bedding to their cage, find their preferred corner, move their pellets in there and they'll pick it up. It'll never work for their pee though :/
You should aim to give them about an hour "free-roam" per day, this can be in a barricaded area. Remember, rats can jump quite high and they love chewing things, as some of my cables found out :/ Also, you won't be doing this for the first couple of days, let them settle in first.
Oh, and the first thing you should teach them is to come when called, use treats to get this (my girls will race for bits of bran flakes), it's a lifesaver when they get lost/stubborn!
Let me know if I forgot anything! :D
I've had a total of three.
They're cord chewers. Best advice I could give there is just to keep the cords out of the way or run them through plastic flexible tubing. http://www.cableorganizer.com/wire-loom-tubing/
You don't have to have them out of their cage too much if your cage is big enough. You can just play with them on a couch or bed every day. You can let them free roam around but yeah you'd have to 'rat proof' things you don't want chewed.
My recommended cage is the CritterNation. Lots of room for a pair of rats and a really high quality cage. On that note you'd want to have at least two because they can get lonely by themselves. It's easier adopting two brothers or sisters who are already bonded otherwise you'll have to very slowly introduce them to prevent fighting.
They will sometimes leave trails of urine when about. It's very small dribbles though usually, like a few drops. I think it may be possible to train them not to but I didn't put much effort there since it occurred pretty rarely for me. For the most part they self-litter-trained for me and when they actually went it was in a particular part of their cage.
For tricks I had one who was an awesome shoulder percher. You could just sit your hand down and tap and he'd come running up your arm and shoulder and just sit there. When perched he'd usually just kind of sit there and balance, maybe play with hair. I could drive with him perched and he'd get excited when going near a car.
He'd also stand up on command.
I understand where you are coming from, up to three weeks ago we had a very small flat too (2 1/2) and our cages where taking more than half the living room/kitchen. We currently have (and had in that flat) two Double Critter Nation (http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY).
One good way of going out of the problem of small space in maybe to make your own cage bigger. Here is a link to my old cage I ''doubled'' myself'' by using two Rat Resort cages and making a hole in the bottom of the upper tray and cutting the wire of the top of the bottom cage: http://imgur.com/a/hTJra (sorry for the mess, the cage was in the basement and that flat is on the way to be emptied, so not very clean haha)!
It was pretty easy to do and gave a lot more space. The cages where quite small by themselves but it gave a lot of rattie space like that while not using too much of the house. It's probably smaller than buying a bigger cage and it was quite cost effective because I bought the second one used (look often on websites like Gumtree or Kijiji), it did the job perfectly until I could afford my 2 Double Critter Nation and had the place for it :)!
If you have any more question on how to do it, contact me, it will be a pleasure to talk about the tools needed and stuff like that!
Introduce them in a neutral area. When we do it we put clean towels down (smells are very important) in an area enclosed by two of these connected into one big area. Watch them for an hour or two and have a towel handy ready to toss in to break up any fights. Small amounts of nipping and stuff is normal, they need to figure out their relationship. But full on lunges or extended fights are no bueno, especially if blood is drawn. If that happens break it up immediately.
We also have a divider for our cage. So after we do the initial introduction we house them separately but next to each other (so they can smell / hear) for about a week. Then we'll do a second introduction in the neutral area and if all goes well they'll be cuddling by the end of it. Then they can go in the cage together, but best to do it when you're around so can check it out in case you hear scuffles.
Chances are they'll get along great, though males can be the trickiest. Both adoption places we've been to understand that they need to get along with the piggie you already have, so will take them back within 30 days if things aren't working out between the two of them.
Finally, just google things. There's a ton of info on what to look for and expect when introducing the piggies. Here is just one such good source.
Good luck! And you definitely should have two otherwise your little guy may get depressed. They are much more active and 'upbeat' when they have a cage mate.
I'm not sure if you're trying to get a special customized wheel, but I got the basic kaytee silent spinner wheel and my babies love it. And it's actually pretty silent. Durable, easy to install on the standard cage.
How do I insert photos here?
well anyways, here's my chin Pookah enjoying hers :)
https://www.instagram.com/p/aHu1vUuCvH/
The cage it's self is oookay? It's kind of a small price jump from that one to the Critter Nation cage which is pretty much the best cage you can get besides making a crazy huge custom one so to me I'd just save a bit more and get the creme of the crop cage.
The wheel in the listing you've provided is dangerous for glider tails, most owners prefer the "stealth wheel". I have a stealth wheel and my gliders LOVE it, they are constantly playing on it. When I looked up the kind I had it was no longer available and it seems they've made a new version which is the one I've linked, I can't speak for it's quality as I don't have that model but it looks like the same and better plus less bulky then mine. I'm totally going to get one now that I know they exist haha
I don't know what the food they've shown is but if anyone tells you you can get by feeding gliders with only pellet food and no fresh fruits or meal worms they're trying to sell you something!
Good luck on your glider journey!
I can't recommend the Silent Spinner brand enough. They have a ball-bearing axle, so they really ARE silent. And they're in most pet stores. Here's the requested Amazon link.
Minor issue: If you have a cage that will hold the twelve-inch model, GET THAT ONE. It will be more comfortable for the larger Syrian. The 6.5" model isn't bad, but I'd prefer at least an 8" wheel so his back won't arch as much.
Wodent Wheel also makes a ball-bearing axled silent wheel that does come in an 8" size, which fits in most fishtank cages, but isn't in any local pet stores in my area. Though since /u/queserasera_ is specifically asking for Amazon links, it's worth mentioning.
I don't have direct experience with the Wodent Wheel brand, but I have friends who love it. I do have direct experience with Silent Spinners, and I love it. They work. Get the largest one that will fit in your cage.
A playpen is awesome! Depending on the one you get they might be able to jump it. But this one is a good one to start with. It should be easy to find in stores though.
Just make sure it's not on carpet! Blankets/clothes are fine if you can wash them. Or any washable surface. I think there's one that comes with a plastic cover too. I recommend keeping the door closed too - they are fast when they escape. But if it's set up right and someone's watching them you and he gerbs should be fine.
I highly recommend putting some hiding spots and wooden toys in there. Silent spinners (or similar type wheels) are great too. Just remember to ALWAYS supervise them! I had a female who always jumped out just to jump back in her tank. I think you can safely use and put in plastic houses and such, but test it out first. Personally, all 10+ I've put in a play pen through the years have never chewed anything but food or the fabric(if any) they were on. If they don't chew the plastic it's fine to be in there. But not their tanks of course.
It's funny to see them mark everything too. They have scent glands on their bellies which they mark their territory with. So if you see them drag their bellies it's fine. It's quite funny actually.
I upgraded to the Midwest Deluxe Critter Nation Two Story https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NJ0DAY/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like the horizontal bars, its size, the flat floor, large doors, and that you can expand it. I can only recommend it if you are willing to work on it, as it can be hard to put together and dangerous otherwise.
If the pieces were perfect, it would not be hard to put together. But some of the connections were bent and needed to be straitened, had a bad weld that made a gap, so had to be creative and a second set of hands to get it into place. It is just a one time headache and your set might be better.
For sugar gliders, you will want to not add the middle floor section, not adding it exposes holes, and then there is holes for where you can add the adjustable shelves.
The dangerous part is the holes have sharp edges, so they need to be filed smooth. Also, the punched out bit is still in the holes on most of them. They can be removed with needle nose pliers. If this is not done, I would worry about a curious sugar glider loosing a finger or whole hand...
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The one I had before was the HQ Flight Cage https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UTZ040/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is a little smaller, but still a descent size, it has bars on the bottom and slide out floor under it, so with a bit of newspaper (or what ever you prefer) it was easy to clean it, the smaller doors can be an advantage if you have have trouble keeping the gliders inside when you open it.
I had it for three years, the main reason I replaced it is I did not like the vertical bars, even though I never had an issue, I worried about it hurting their feet, as they always slid down on the bars a bit and with the bars on the bottom, they did not have much flat ground to stand on. I also wanting something a bit larger.
Other wise, it was a great cage. It was easy to put together and the only adjustment I had to make was to zip tie shut the little bird doors on the top of it.
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I looked into both cages, before getting them, to make sure they were not coated with anything toxic to sugar gliders, which is the main issue with cheap bird cages.
yeah its actually this cage here - at one point in the description it read it was for rats as well but has since been taken down :d - I got this about a month ago and the spacing between the bars is only like a 16th of an inch wider on the very outside bars and she knows that and I guess its just enough to let her through lol - so now im gonna have to get some smaller mesh stuff and wire over the whole cage I guess :/ I chose this cage because If I wanted to add another level to it later, it would be super easy - still a nice cage, maybe if I can fatten em up a little more she wont be able to make it through :)
Some tips for ferret owning if youre interested. Ferrets are obligate carnivores, do not buy any brand of food that says theyre for ferrets. Most of it is garbage that can kill your ferret. Get a high quality cat kibble here is a link to a chart that has a good list of options. Raw feeding is another good option, here is a forum that teaches about that. They should never have anything but meat or high quality oils, such as salmon oil for treats.
Ferrets need a ton of space to live well these are the best two cages. ferret nation and feisty ferret. The last one you will need to get something to put over the bars to protect their feet though.
Ferrets should not be bathed more than once a month, and only if they are visibly dirty. If you bathe them more than that their body produces more of the musk and they will smell like ass.
Ferrets should always be kept in pairs, especially if they have always been kept with another. They say the best toy for a ferret is another ferret for a reason. Ferrets also require a lot of out of cage play time, so a ferret proofed house or a play pen is required. They will attempt to eat anything and they will get intestinal blockages easily. This will kill them very quickly. There is a "protocol" for trying to get blockages out which includes feeding them raw canned pumpkin. However, the majority of the time they need surgery.
Please feel free to ask me anything about keeping ferrets!
Hello! I don't post a lot but I spent a long time looking for the most appropriate wheel for my hammy, so wanted to share what I found:
My hammy is currently using the Trixie exercise wheel (28cm) which he absolutely loves, it's not silent but the only sounds are his feet pattering and the wheel rocking slightly on its stand. You can fix the wheel to the bars of a cage if you prefer which would probably eliminate this noise. Link on Amazon UK.
When he was younger we used a 6.5 inch Kaytee silent spinner which was fantastic, but he quickly outgrew it. They do a 12 inch one so if you have a large enough home for your hammy then that's also a possibility. Hope that helps a little!
Hamsters are nocturnal, so while you may think she's not using her wheel, she might be using it while you are asleep or away from home. I do hope you get a larger cage for her soon, as that cage is too small to accommodate an appropriately sized wheel. If she truly isn't using a wheel at all, the size of the wheel may be contributing to that.
Syrians should run on a 12 inch wheel. An economic choice is the comfort wheel from Kaytee:
https://smile.amazon.com/Kaytee-Comfort-Exercise-Wheel-Colors/dp/B0010OR008/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2HS8AQ2VOVHJB&keywords=12+inch+comfort+wheel&qid=1562230747&s=gateway&sprefix=12+inch+comfort+%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-1
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Although it will appear oversized, a 12 inch wheel will prevent your hammy from arching her back, which can cause issues as she ages. Regardless of which wheel you provide, make sure the wheel has a solid running surface, versus the wire wheels.
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You mentioned being on a tight budget, but if you can save up to afford it, this has been a great cage for my hammies and I think could really improve your hammy's quality of life:
https://smile.amazon.com/Prevue-Pet-Products-528-Universal/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=hamster+cage&qid=1562231054&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Just be careful with condensation in tanks.
Personally I recommend a deep bed wire cage like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Pet-Products-528-Universal/dp/B074FH47MQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hamster+cage&qid=1550874918&s=gateway&sr=8-5
You can fill the tray with sawdust for tunneling (I used to mix some food into it so they had some foraging to do) and they'll love climbing up and down the bars, even wearing down their teeth on them sometimes. They're more airy and offer more for hamsters to do than glass tanks. I modded mine to add another cage on top (I took the door off the top and wired the second cage over it, then covered the wires with cardboard so they didn't hurt their feet). The second cage was one of those ones with tunnel attachments. Those take some cleaning, but they LOVE them.
My cage was a bit of a behemoth but I housed some very happy hammies in it! At one point we had a rat tube with a hamster ball on the end with a bbq skewer ladder they could climb up, one of them used to nest in it.
I don’t know about bird toys but this puzzle feeder is supposed to be quite challenging for rats (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Living-World-Teach-n-Treat-Interactive-Toy/dp/B004HYW9B8?ref_=bl_dp_s_mw_1667779031). If your rat’s super smart tho, I’m not sure how long it’ll keep her interested XD
Teach And Treat is REALLY cool. I have 2 buns who are both really food motivated and this has 3 "levels" or variations of puzzle for them to solve. It's really interesting how our older boy who's a little 4 pounder "politely" removes each cup and puts it neatly to the side then eats the treats. Our 1 year old 8 pound girl picks the whole thing up with her teeth, "makes it rain," and then proceeds to bonk and toss the little cups.
Snack Ball is cool too. It's not available at that link, but it's the only good pic I can find of it. I got ours at a House Rabbit fundraiser. They REALLY get good at it - we have a wood floor so it's NICE AND LOUD. It's also a good way to feed pellets - makes them exercise for them.
One of my favorite thing to put out in the rat room has been this toy: https://www.amazon.com/Living-World-Teach-Treat-Toy/dp/B004HYW9B8. It's a learning toy with three different levels of difficulty for them to master finding treats in! Some rats will get all 3 levels right away, while others will struggle at even the basic level. It's both fun for them to improve their problem solving skills and fun for you to watch!
I also create nesting spots and hang hammocks around the room, so they can go lounge wherever. If you plan to give them long periods of time in the room with the cage open, it might also be a good idea to get a litter box for a corner or two.
They also make rat-sized ball pits. Some rats seem to love playing in them, while others are indifferent or afraid, so YMMV. Worst case scenario, the plastic balls can make for a good game of fetch. For a more DIY-approach, you can buy PVC tubing from a hardware store to create mazes and tunnels around for them to run through and hide in.
To be happy 2 piggies need at minimum 8 square feet so they can run. I recommend this cage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_gmWZCbSX9HDPM if you can’t fit that, I’d suggest waiting or looking into a different pet like a hamster. I made the bad decision when I adopted my piggies as babies to get a smaller cage and expand when they grew up. 2 months later I was buying another, bigger cage. There’s no 2 ways about it. If piggies don’t have a big cage they will just be bored and sit around all day. It’s big but necessary.
Most guinea pigs also need a piggie friend to be happy because they’re herd animals. There are rare exceptions but typically one guinea pig is a depressed guinea pig.
My cage doesn’t even perfectly fit in my room- kinda have to step over it- but to me it’s worth it.
Im not sure if I can see or not but I would like to suggest hammocks! Rats looove to be bundled up in a small space like in a hammock or a hangy thing.. Kinda like this http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394481573&sr=8-2&keywords=rat+hammock they seem to love those space pod things xD. Seriously awesome cage though! I'm jealous!!
Thanks so much for your great response. I wish I've would seen it earlier. I just ordered this cage for a 10 gallon aquarium. I hope they do well in this habitat. I will take care of the guys, if I feel they are unhappy, I will expand their home. Again, thanks.
Thank you for the help! But could you help me pick out a cage that doesn't pass 50$? I found this one on the C & C site and thought it looked okay, it has good reviews but it doesn't have a top panel and I have cats. One cat is pretty old and she doesn't bother a fly and the other is quite curious.
http://www.petsmart.com/small-pet/cages-habitats-hutches/midwest-guinea-pig-habitat-zid36-5171983/cat-36-catid-600011?_t=pfm%3Dcategory
I found the same cage for one day delivery on amazon for a little less but it also has the top panel.
http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Interactive-Guinea-Habitat-Plus/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407339861&sr=8-2&keywords=guinea+pig+cage+top
Is it big enough for two guinea pigs or do I need a bigger cage?
Though you didn't ask, I'll volunteer: Be very careful when giving your ferret(s) toys to play with. Avoid anything made of foam, for example; chewed pieces can get caught in their intestinal tract and cause serious problems. For similar reasons, avoid anything that has pieces which can be chewed off (e.g., a plastic eye); anything with plastic bits (like ribbons); and all kinds of squeaky toys and things made of thin rubber. Good toys: Cardboard tubes and boxes. Ping-pong balls. Super Thru-Way. Cotton rope toys. Large towels. Small cotton unadorned stuffed animals.
It's a Kaytee my first home cage for exotic pets, I got it off Amazon actually! They sell it at petco too though if you have any of those in your area!
Here's a link to the amazon page
Edit: forgot to mention, I love this cage so far, it's perfectly sized for my girls to have plenty of room, and fits my tiny apartment well! I'd recommend it for sure.
Toys!
These are great "hide and seek" toys to play with your buns with. You hide treats or pellets in the cavities and your bun finds them!
Hagen Living World, Linnea, Blenda
Alternatively, you can also get something like this or this and stick treats and pellets in it so your bunny will run around trying to get them.
You can also make a maze or house out of boxes. My buns love running around and playing in anything made of cardboard. I've also heard that hiding treats inside an egg carton or inside a paper bag is also fun for them. :)
The cost of a C&C cage can vary a whole lot depending on where you get your materials. Some places, sign stores will sell a lot of Coroplast for next to nothing, other places charge way more. A pre-cut C&C kit from guineapigzone, for example, might cost $80-$100 depending on size, and includes everything needed, including the coroplast already cut and scored appropriately, all the grids, connectors and zip ties. Other people have said they've gotten all the materials for under $30 total.
If you do want a pre-made cage, the Midwest Guinea Pig Habitat is about as good and cost-effective as it gets: http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-171GH-Interactive-Guinea-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1237496903&sr=8-2
That Midwest cage is between a 2x3 and 2x4 in terms of C&C dimensions, so it's good for one or two piggies. It's $35 on Amazon, which is a pretty good deal, considering pet stores generally have way smaller cages for way more money.
I bought one of those pre-cut C&C kits for a 2x4 cage with a 2x1 loft and ramp. Personally, I think it was worth the extra cost because I didn't have to measure or cut anything, just put it together, which took about half an hour. It's been a very nice and reliable cage so far, and I highly recommend C&C. But if you want the convenience of a brand-name cage, the Midwest is pretty much the only way to go.
In all honesty, this cage looks way too small and the wire floorings along with the wire wheel is very dangerous for your little one.
A saucer wheel is a great option, but make sure it is wide enough. Your hamster shouldn’t have to arch his back at all in order to run on it...if it is arched, he could end up with permanent back damage.
For the time being, find some fleece and cover up any wired surfaces so your hamster cannot injure itself. When you are able, id recommend getting a giant storage big from the store (they are pretty inexpensive). If you look up “diy bin cages” online, you will find a bunch of ideas :) If funds are available this is a good option.
Edit: not sure why I was downvoted for providing my honest feedback on how to provide this hamster with the safest and most appropriate cage. Most people are misinformed from the people who work at pet stores because unfortunately, most of the employees themselves are not properly informed on almost every animal they market to apart from cats and dogs...
My little guy loves this!
I have a bunch of cheap $5 polar fleece blankets from Walmart that he loves and makes it super easy to keep the cage clean.
EDIT: formatting
I love this set-up and you are doing a great job of giving your hamster some space! This is the wheel I have for my hamster: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010OR008/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 , and he loves it. Just a side note, you might want to attach some cardboard our something to the grated ramp. Hamsters feet can slip through the holes and get injured! Hope this helps.
I use this:
Suncoast Sugar Gliders Wodent... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRWR7MQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yes it says it's for sugar gliders but my two girls love it and can easily run on it, unless there is bedding underneath so we usually have to put the wheel down first and then fill tank with bedding but they use it just fine! & I like it also
definitely bigger, i agree with the other posts that C&C cage is the best option but do be careful with small piggies and the size of the grids. midwest habitat’s are really good as well though and you could always expand them https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-Cage-MidWest-Inches/dp/B001NJ0DPY
I had a hamster in college. He didn't take up a lot of space, and I could just put him in the ball when I cleaned his cage. Definitely filled the void left from leaving my parents' dog. I'd recommend rats over hamsters, though. They don't take up too much space and are much more social. Either way, I highly recommend rodents as opposed to crabs. I loved having a warm, furry buddy to snuggle with when I was feeling blue.
Word to the wise - get a silent spinner wheel if you have roommates and/or plan on keeping the rodent in your bedroom.
I have a 10 gallon tank with a wire cage topper. Wire is best that way they don't eat everything that is plastic. It has worked pretty well and I think they like being able to climb.
Best I can do for a link on my phone to the topper I have:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027J381U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1380680596&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
yeah that is a big concern! Wire can cause fractured/broke feet and toes! I would recommend http://www.amazon.com/Super-Pet-Chinchilla-12-Inch-Exercise/dp/B0006IK0PQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372998518&sr=8-1&keywords=silent+spinner that one. Are you getting girls or boys? OH! and if you want a lot of people cover the shelves with fleece for easy clean up/soft cuddle spots. I personally don't with that cage since the shelves are smaller. Just something to consider!
And another thing my rats like are http://www.amazon.com/Lava-Ledge-Attachment-Chinchilla-Habitat/dp/B00176F466/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_2 I like to put one up and then a hanging toy above it. It just adds another little thing for them to use.
If you can afford this one and have room for it, get it. I will never, ever own another cage - it is the awesome. (Especially after owning a dinky "Super Pet - My First Home".
They also have a single story version as well.
Pros:
Cons:
My wiggly pigs have two of these connected together.
Guinea Habitat Guinea Pig Cage by MidWest, 47L x 24W x 14H Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q7WxCbDV9DDCA
One of those cages is the minimum recommended size for two guinea pigs (8 square feet). I think that's cheaper than a C&C cage, considering the price of a pack of panels and a sheet of coroplast. If that cage is a size upgrade for them, I definitely recommend it. You'll see the same cage in a lot of pictures here. Good luck.
Ours super love to run on their wheels (they are like this type https://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Silent-Spinner-Giant-Exercise/dp/B0006IK0PQ ). And for bedding, we use corn cob bedding. It's supposedly very good for them because it does not have dust and is therefore better for their noses:). Do you think yours would be allergic to that?
I share my morning oatmeal with him and he loves almonds but I can not get him to eat any fruit... He absolute favorite treat is kale though. This is the food he eats https://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Regal-Rat-Food-3-Pound/dp/B000GABM1K is it good?
https://www.amazon.com/Guinea-Habitat-MidWest-Panel-Inches/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=guinea+pig+cage&qid=1557866502&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I have these for mine and they’re really happy in them. These cages connect, each purchase is purchasing one cage so if you would like multiple make sure to check the quantity. I personally didn’t put the top grid on because I want the space to feel more open for my piggies. Waterproof bottom and you can use fleece or bedding. And it’s super easy to set up!
Edit: sorry for the messy link
It’s the Trixie wheel that everyone in this thread recommends!! Do have to say it’s MASSIVE like way bigger than I was expecting but she loves it
It comes with a stand, or a clip that goes on bars and the stand is super quiet but when it clips in the bars it does rock slightly!
Trixie 61011 Rotating Ferris... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00365P9NY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Dollar store desk accessories and organizer bins are great.
I had an exercise ball zip-tied up in one corner of my cage, which my boys loved, but it wasn't the easiest thing to get inside and clean. I got one of these to replace it, and it's much easier to keep clean.
So for Syrians, I never recommend plastic bins as they are great escape artists and are notorious for chewing right through it. Always go for an aquarium, 40 gallon breeder or larger. The ventilation is still very good and it acts as an insulator for the winter. Your hamster will get cold drafts through a wired cage. Wires also open up the possibility of bar chewing if you get a really energetic Syrian, they have a strong chance of developing that habit, especially if there isn’t enough enrichment. Tanks are VERY easy to clean! I use a mini dust pan from the dollar store and got a $12 mini vacuum from Walmart. Scoop all the bedding out, vacuum around the edges and put bedding in. Tanks don’t trap in the smell like plastic bins or even wired cages do. I did a lot of experimenting on cages and bins but finally settled on the 40 breeder and a detolf. Will never go back.
As for silent wheels, I have attached links below. Remember to get a Syrian 11-12 inches 9 is too small. 10 can work:
Suncoast Sugar Gliders Wodent Wheel Senior & Tail Shield - 11" Running Wheel for Small Pets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRWR7MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9aH0Db6J3G38G
Exotic Nutrition Silent Runner 12" Regular Wheel + Sandy Track + Cage Attachment - Pet Exercise Wheel Package Set - for Sugar Gliders, Female Rats, Hamsters, Mice and Other Small Pets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073FQBDMH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7bH0DbTP063HZ
Cool so the bottom part of the Trixie cage is about 8.9ft^2 with another 4ft^2 inside the upper level. This may be the perfect solution for the space I have.
I use to have one of these, but it was unwieldy and the canvas got gross in their "preferred corner". This paired with some fleeces and a water proof layer under the bottom would work great.
Thanks for sharing.
As /u/Sykirobme mentioned, I would suggest using a prepared food as a base diet and adding a supplemental vegetables on top of that.
I haven't had a lot of experience getting rats to change diets, but we adopted an older male a couple of years ago who had no real problem with the switch.
Us: Oh yeah, all of ours love Cheerios as a treat!
Previous Owner: No, all he eats is Cheerios.
Us: Oh ...
Even though he had been fed only plain Cheerios for over a year, it only took a few days to convince him to try triangles (Oxbow Regal Rat Food). After he realized that other foods existed, he even started turning down Cheerios in favor of fruit and vegetable treats. (The other rats thought he was insane and were happy to take the extra Cheerios.)
Sure!
I buy practically everything on Amazon and these would be my top recommendations:
Hidey Hut - this is large enough to fit two grown gerbils and my first survived the chewing for close to 4 years.
Small Animal Pet Playpen/Exercise Pen - this is just tall enough for the jumpers. I've still had some be able to reach the top but it is a struggle and you'd be able to catch them in time. Really sturdy as well.
Kordon/Oasis (Novalek) SOA80304 Bell Bottle and Hold Guard Small Animal Value Set, 4-Ounce - this is by far my favorite recommendation of the bunch. I cannot tell you how many water bottles were just destroyed and I would come home to an empty bottle and a very wet gerbil. This thing is impenetrable!
Kaytee Hamster Silent Spinner, 6 1/2 inch Exercise Wheel - although I've had to buy a couple of these (they will chew the yellow part holding the bottom part to the wheel) I find that this is the sturdiest of them all. It becomes less silent the more they chew on it and push it around but it's never been loud enough to be considered especially annoying.
Great for cleaning cage and is safe
As far as dust baths go, I've tried several different kinds and find them all to be equivalent.
Would not recommend:
Ware Manufacturing Flying Saucer Exercise Wheel for Small Pet - the quality is fine here but if you are using carefresh, it gets buried and doesn't allow any give for it to spin.
Kaytee Woodland Get-A-Way Medium Hamster House - quality here is also fine and it's pretty thick so it would take a while to get them to chew. Since it is wood, it absorbs liquids. My gerbils would pee on it and it got to the point that it looked moldy and unhealthy so I just threw it out.
Alfie Pet by Petoga Couture - GARI Wood Hut for Small Animals like Dwarf Hamster and Mouse - Size: Large - this is the cutest little home I've ever seen. I had to eventually throw out though because the wood was so thin that the back wall collapsed due to their chewing and would no longer stand up.
Prevue Pet Products Multi-Color Small Pet Playpen 40090 - I think the quality is here too. It's just too short. My gerbils were easily able to escape this.
GreatChoice Water Bottle - chewed through in a week and Same
For me it has been trial and error mostly, you kind of see what they prefer. Very amazing animals and the personality reflects them definitely. I've had Oli for 4 months now and have bought two cages, two wheels, and went through multiple different kinds of bedding.
Cage wise, I started with your first one, and realized shortly after Oli wanted more room.
This was what I have now, and I love it.
Guinea Habitat Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ0DQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rVndzbSGFY140
Make sure you buy a large wheel, both the saucer spinners and silent spinners work great.
As far as bedding, I like the carefresh recycled cardboard. It's less messy and absorbs. My hedgie prefers the bedding, but that doesn't go for all.
carefresh Complete Natural Paper Bedding for Small Animals, 50 L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PBM761S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t2ndzbJMEF9Y5
I tried a fleece and he wasn't liking that because he had nothing to burrow in. Make sure you have places for your little guy to hide!
This one is from Critter Nation. The bigger one of the 2 on that page. It is a great cage and I love the huge doors. I can open them fully while I clean the cage and the gliders don't even jump out.
I got it from Amazon as a add on item, Prevue Pet Products Multi-Color Small Pet Playpen 40090 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003SZSVCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2aIrzbMTJ24KW its good already by itself, but I bought 2 of these so I can go in with her :D its really big when you get 2 of the fences I'm 5'3" and I only took about 1/4 of the space there was! Hope that was a good review lol sorry