Reddit mentions: The best socket sets

What kind of work do you plan on doing around the house/car? What makes are your vehicles? What's your budget? I'd wait if you can until Father's day to see what kinds of deals you can get.

The M18 drill you linked to is a bare tool, meaning it doesn't come with a battery or charger. You'll want the kit to start off. You should be able to get by with with a M12 series and save a little money. As far as brands, most people are pretty brand loyal and will tell you whatever brand they bought is the best. I personally have Milwaukee and Makita and love them, but if you go with any of the big three (Milwaukee, Makita or Dewalt) you'll be fine. Corded tools are going to give you the most bang for you buck, of course then you have to deal with a cord.

Hammer - you can get by with just about anything. Make sure it feels solid built and feels good when you swing it. Buy a smooth face first. A rubber mallet like orielbean said comes in handy.

Screwdrivers - This is where I'd spend a little money. This set is a pleasure to use https://chadstoolbox.com/wera-05105650001-334-6-rack-s-driver-set/

That ifixit set looks like it's for cell phone/tablet type repairs. I don't know anything about it.

I'd stay away from the XXX piece mechanics tool sets. Buy a set of 6 point (not 12 point) in either metric (if you have Asian model cars) or metric and ASE. Buy your ratchets and wrenches separately. GearWrench (Advance Auto), Husky (Home Depot), and Kobalt (Lowes) are all good brands for a home user. Some times you can find 40% off coupons online for Advance and save a good bit of money. Start by buying a 3/8 set and then go to a 1/2 and finally a 1/4 set if you feel like you need them.

Personally I don't use chrome sockets anymore and just went to all impacts which is what you need if you are going to use something like this: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2763-22. The drawbacks are the are a little bit bigger around and wear quicker than chrome but I've haven't had any problems out of them. The set I have is https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-3351-8-Inch-Metric-51-Piece/dp/B00JO1BO1K/ref=sr_1_7?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1492823562&sr=1-7&keywords=sunex. You can find smaller kits for less.

Get some safety glass and gloves and use them!

As others have said don't mess with A/C. It's one for the professionals really.

I've recnetly started servicing/repairing my car (also a Civic - but an 04 plate). No experience. Just YouTube!

It hasn't taken much in tools. Some have just made life easier too (I bought a trolley jack for £50 for example - could have used the emergency one that came with the car). Axle stands are about £15. You can get cheaper but I wouldn't scrimp on safety. Mind you I made wheel chocks out of some fence posts I had and they work great.

So far I've done

• Oil and oil filter. Just needed a socket set (This is great, and does 95% of stuff. Even has spark plug sockets). I also bought a filter removal tool, catch pan, funnel and can to hold oil. These were about £20. But I could have done it with some old plastic containers at a push.
  
• Spark plugs. Easy. Just needed that socket set.
  
• Changed manual transmission oil. A bit trickier as I needed another set of axle stands (£15) and a £15 pump to get the oil up. Could have used a funnel and hose, but this way was easier. Needed a 3/8 breaker bar as it was too tight for the ratchet in the socket set. Could have used a 3/8 converter on a 1/2 breaker bar if I'd had one at the time.
  
• Cleaned out the throttle body. Needed some throttle cleaner spray and a toothbrush (>£10). Then just the socket set. A £4 set of picks and hooks (Rolson ones from Sainsbury's) helped with a hose, but weren't essential).
  
• Adjusted the throttle cable. Just needed a 10mm spanner (spanner sets start from about £8).
  
• Adjusted the handbrake. Just a screwdriver.
  
• Replaced the headunit, added component speakers, amp, subwoofer. Needed that socket set and some trim removal tools for about a tenner. Already had a multimeter and wiring kit (you can get these for £20-30). Also replaced door handle trim and pedal rubbers.
  
• Removed, wirebrushed, rust treated and sprayed the exhaust manifold heat sheild. These always rust out and are impossible to get in good nick. So I wanted to stop mine getting worse. Got some wire brush attachments for my drill, Kurust and high-heat spray paint (probably £25). The bottom nut was rounded to hell so I needed get some of these. Worked a treat.
  
• Removed wheels and wirebrushed, rust treated and sprayed wheel arches where there was surface rust. (probably £15 for spray and more Kurust. Rear wheels were on super tight so needed a 1/2 breaker bar and some sockets (£12).
  
  I'd happily change brake discs and pads if they needed doing. Air filter was new, but could have just popped one in when I did the throttle body. Pollen filters are easy too. Would be a bit more nervous about changing the brake fluid though.
  
  ​
  
  Main dealer service (just an inspection, oil and filter change and topping off washer liquid) is now £170 with a major service at a whopping £275 just for adding filters and brake fluid. You can get much cheaper at independents, but still save a packet doing it yourself.
  
  I've paid for all the tools in year one in labour costs. An oil filter and oil change next year would only cost me about £30.
  
  Just make sure you keep records of everything you've done.
  
  If you want to spend a bit more on Honda parts these guys have been good

I guess it really depends on what you'll be doing. Aside from a good set of pliers, screwdrivers, pry bars, sockets, etc, it's really gonna be job dependent. If they have you doing a lot of front end work, a good ball joint press (Snap On's is the best, everyone else's is pretty much the same, Harbor freight's is crap), pry bars, etc.

The dealership should have a majority of the specialty tools you'll need for Fords.

It's so easy to spend so much on tools, there are so many things you'll need eventually, but it's all about building up to it. I'd recommend putting back some money every week, $20-40 or whatever, and buy the tools on Amazon or Tooltopia.com or used truck brands on ebay or whatever.

Like this in a truck brand is probably $400, but $85 on tooltopia, or $77 on amazon. And GP is a good brand, many of the tool trucks carry it and so they can warranty it (buuuuuut they may not since it's not "their" product, so you gotta be friendly lol, which may mean you buy some odds and ends from them sometimes).

Actually, $555 for Snap On, but it does include 8mm and 21mm. Mac had a set in their flyer this week for 10mm-19mm that was $275 or so.

Point is, just get your basic set in decent quality, and go from there, find out what you need when you get there while trying not to break the bank. Browse through this thread on Garage Journal, they've listed out what is the exact same (like Mac reselling an OTC slide hammer under their name) or very similar.

edit: I thought of something to add, when I started out I bought a LOT of my stuff from HF. Like, a lot of the little used things that I might need early on. It's been about 12 years, and some of them I'm still using, some of them have broken and been replaced with better tools. As an example, I'm still using my HF 1/2" impact sockets without issue. I still use my cheap HF power steering pump pulley remover. Stuff like that. Some of it I waited until I found a good deal online or on the truck and replaced it, then took the HF tool home in case I needed it there.

Snap on tools are considered pretty much the best of the best (Mac, Matco, and Cornwell are pretty much the same quality and price but a bit less common) and are priced like it ($600+ for a basic socket set is out of most people's price range). They are great tools but are hard to justify unless you rely on them for your livelihood.

If you want some good quality tools but aren't a professional mechanic or the like go with an "industrial brand" like Blu-point (from snap on), SK, Armstrong, Proto, or Williams. They aren't quite the same quality but are mostly made in the US and will last a lifetime for most people. They are still pretty expensive ($150 for a more complete socket set) but are generally worth it over the all the Chinese crap flooding the market in the last few years.

I would advise a Bahco socket set over the Halfords offering. I have this one, much better quality in my opinion, less stuff you'll never use and 6 sided sockets rather than 12.

Buy some paraffin for chain cleaning- i use a garden spray bottle to apply and a rag to clean the chain off. I've tried toothbrushes but they only seem to move the shit around rather than removing it.
80w90 gear oil is good for lube, I also like the Wurth stuff.

Enjoy your 125 and best of luck with the DAS.

I worked at a bicycle shop for about a year and a half, and that was a couple of years ago, so take these tips with caution.

For tools, a basic mechanic set and some screw drivers should be what you need to get started on the routine maintenance. I'm assuming a 15mm crescent wrench is what you need to remove the wheels.

The spokes, however require a deal of training and some specialized tools to perform a proper repair. However, I'm sure there are YouTube videos that will teach you how to adjust and replace spokes without special tools, but you run the risk of damaging the nipples (the small threaded pieces that the spokes go into) and/or spokes.

Hopefully, your usual bike shop will be willing to show you how to do the fairly routine things, but if not you may want to see if there are any workshops near you that you can attend. Getting hands-on practice with people who know what they're doing is (in my opinion) the best way to learn mechanical tasks.

​

To reduce the amount of flats you get, you have options.

1. Write/Call your local department of transportation and ask them to clean the roadways
   
2. Upgrade your current tires to something more durable (I would recommend the Continental Ultra Gatorskin)
   
3. Carry a flat repair kit and some spare tubes (you'll want to add a crescent wrench to remove your wheels)
   
   There's also the nice things to have on hand as well:
   
   

• Chain lube
  
• Spare tubes
  
• Bicycle pump
  
• Rags to dry off the bike and chain so they don't rust
  
  Also, I have found Sheldon Brown's website quite useful when I needed some walk-throughs.
  
  ​
  
  Sucks that your local shop is closing down! I'm sorry to hear that.
  
  ​

You've posed no question, only a series of statements that you have a battery and don't have tools. From what I gather, you need to replace a battery, but aren't sure how and have no tools.

Recommend:

• You didn't state where you obtained the new battery, or whether it's the correct battery for your vehicle. If you don't know how to Google to check this, recommend going back to the auto store where you purchased the battery and make sure.
  
  
• Replacing a battery is super easy- all you need is a socket wrench. Teach yourself how to do so by watching this video (first hit in Youtube), and obtain a socket wrench set from Amazon or from wherever you purchased the battery.
  
  
• If I were in town, I'd just come do this for you; alas, I am out of town.
  
  Note: The Amazon link is to a super cheap socket set- fine for this purpose, though I typically discourage buying cheap tools; you get what you pay for.

What to buy in order

Absolute first thing to buy is a fire extinguisher from Amazon. You can get a mount for it, mount it somewhere you can quickly get it

2) winch

3) air compressor.

This is what I suggest

Smittybilt 2781 5.65 CFM Universal Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K25GMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NF0ADbPPPVFC2

I'm not a smittybilt kinda guy, but that one is good. ARB makes a good one for more money. When you offroad, air down to 15psi

4) tools

Buy this first

TEKTON 3/8-Inch Drive 6-Point Socket & Ratchet Set, Inch/Metric, 5/16-Inch - 3/4-Inch, 8 mm - 19 mm, 47-Piece (Case) | SKT15301 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P6RJXJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3K0ADbPSAB4NG

That'll get most of your minor stuff fixed

Then, get a torx bit set. I have 2 sets from harbor freight.

Then, when budget allows, get this

TEKTON 1/2-Inch Drive 6-Point Socket & Ratchet Set, Inch/Metric, 3/8-Inch - 1-5/16-Inch, 10 mm - 32 mm, 84-Piece (Case) | SKT25302 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P7WLYFH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ML0ADb04NMYX3

Get a 36mm socket for the axle nut

All that, plus various other hand tools (torque wrench, repair manual, rtv adhesive) , and you'll be able to fix everything on your jeep. I keep all that stuff in my metal box in the rear of my wrangler at all times.

5) get some ammo cans and fill them with various spare parts such as U-joints or what not

6) bottle jack or high lift. I prefer a bottle jack

Torin Big Red Hydraulic Bottle Jack, 6 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO86EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TO0ADb8MSFCNM

And carry at least 2 jack stands with you at all times

7) if you don't have lockers, this is the part where you start saving up for lockers (and/or Dana 60 axles)

Edit : just seen you have a Rubicon, you can skip number 7 😎

I'm starting to get into maintenance as well, and as you've realized it's difficult to know where to start. Do you start with a big all-in-one set or a small set?

For people like me who had to start from scratch, I highly recommend starting with a small quality kit like:

• Bahco 2330 Socket Set
  
  From here, buy as needed. A lot of people recommend against buying big socket sets because you end up never using many components. You'll never really regret buying a high quality small set like the Bahco. It has mostly everything you need to do small maintenance. For example, you can also pick up this handy hex socket set
  
  
• Silverline Hex Bit Set
  
  for £4 and that'll cover all of the hex needs. I didn't know I needed this hex set until I tried to remove my bar ends and realized you needed a gigantic hex size that wouldn't have been included in most all-in-one sets, anyways.
  
  Another tip is for you to begin to keep a spreadsheet whenever you touch a bolt or screw or need a tool. This way you'll quickly learn what are the important sizes you need, and this will especially help when you need to travel or tour with tools.

If looking for ratchet\socket sets I would probably look at Gearwrench, Williams USA, and SK personally. Williams, Bluepoint, and Snap-On are all made by the same company. There are Williams tools made in Taiwan that are very similar if not the same to Bluepoint which is also made in Taiwan. There are Williams USA tools that are very similar to Snap-On. but at a reasonable price. You can find Williams USA at http://www.toolsdelivered.com/38-Inch-Drive_c_2652.html, just make sure the description says made in USA.

Gearwrench is the same level as Bluepoint and Williams made in Taiwan. If it were me personally and was looking at any Taiwan made tools, I would probably find the cheapest that fit my needs. Tekton and Pittsburgh pro sockets are also made in Taiwan and are good. But probably not as "nice" overall.

This 3/8 6pt Gearwrench set is very complete and highly regarded.

This SK set is also very nice, made in USA, and in the same range as Williams USA I would say.

Alternatives to the £20 "genuine" Tarp poles:

• Extending washing line prop £5.85 inc P&P
  
  
• Rolson 61007 Telescopic Window Cleaner £8.75 ( and you can promise to clean the windows after you get back. win, win )
  
  
• Foldable Collapsible Self Assemble Replacement 4 Piece Connector Broomstick Handle £5.59
  
  
• Wilko Replacement Wooden Handle £2 each Home brew a joint with metal tube. Allow at least two inches overlap on each pole section.
  
  I know some people will have lightweight tarps used with their lightweight walking poles, but tarps supported that way can be a bit restrictive of head room, and if using a conventional builders tarp, the extra strength of these poles is re-assuring.
  

Irwin extractors
Use like a regular socket - as you turn it, it cuts into the lugnut/bolt.

Alternatively - does the stripped key fit the lugnut/bolt at all - such that you can put a socket over the key with a bar, apply a slight "undoing" force, and hit with a hammer (to push the key onto the lugnut/bolt) - like a poor-man's impact driver?

A photo of the stripped key and locking nut/bolt that you're trying to undo might yield more specific solutions.

I assume that you've lost confidence in your brothers' ability to resolve this problem for you.

You can get sockets that work on the flat face of the hex rather than the corners, like this. I know that set in particular works well, but there are other designs that may be cheaper/work better that I haven't tried. They're useful as if you buy used, definitely worth having for the future as well.

edit: sorry linked to the sae version, here's the metric one.

‘Compact’ a little tricky if you want both 1/4 and 1/2 but Bahco are lovely, lovely tools see this set Bahco S560 0.25/ 0.5-inch Square Drive Met Socket Set https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004124YEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WnK4AbXWPQ3YH

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-3580-Standard-6-Point-16-Inch/dp/B00LNH7728 This one is really good as far as price to performance and warranty (lifetime) goes. TEKTON is great as well, I highly recommend that brand too, though I notice their impact sets aren't as "complete" as sunex

For non power tools;

Bacho
this ratchet set saves me regularly
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-2058S26-Ratchet-Socket-26-Piece/dp/B000Y8TIMY

And in the UK, Halfords are pretty awesome for spanner’s and sockets & have lifetime guarantee at a fraction of snap on

Sunex Cr-Mo like this set is great value for quality

Those Offset ratcheting screwdrivers that take standard bits are pretty frigging useful.

I use this Bahco set myself:

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-2058S26-Ratchet-Socket-26-Piece/dp/B000Y8TIMY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Bacho&qid=1565307442&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Edit: Holy shit this post got gold? XD

I love the design of the SK tools. the ratchet doesnt taper in some weird way. it just has a nicely sized knurled grip. i've only ever broken one rachet ever and i walked into my local dealer and grabbed one off the shelf. no hassle replacement.
I started with This Set and have added a few things but i think this in one of the best bang for your buck tool purchases i've made in a while.

Pretty sure it was from a socket wrench set, like this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004TBL1/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1418373297&sr=1-2

I agree Sunex most likely best choice, or possibly Tekton. https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-2645-2-Inch-Standard-6-Point/dp/B002MW9UW8/

Torque wrench

Socket set

Hex sockets

1/2 inch Ratchet

1/4 inch Ratchet

Combo wrench set

Calipers

Chain tool

Pretty close to everything you'll ever need to work on a bike, besides specialty tools. Buy or borrow other stuff when the issue comes up! You can do it!!

Edit: Added calipers.

err expensive is subjective, i want to say it's good value for what it is. it's the Sunex 3351

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JO1BO1K/

Welp, think I used up all my thrifting luck for the month.

Happened to be in the right place at the right time, I was right behind an employee as they put this on the shelf. I thought it was another crappy cordless drill until I heard something rattle inside.

YOINK!
I've done some sluthing and I'm pretty sure it's this set but I don't see any model numbers.

I can't believe it was so cheap!! They usually price junky cordless drills for $20. Besides the box being a bit dusty it looks to be in excellent shape. No missing pieces or rust or gunk. Who would donate this?!

Hey!
Here's a decent Stanley set that has what you need for under $20.
Stanley 92-804 30 Piece Socket Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NIK9ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IZthybMYM1HND
Hope this helps!

Yes. Tons on amazon.

Neiko 10075A Hex Bit Socket Set, SAE, 5/64”-9/16” | 13-Piece Set, S2 and Cr-V Steel, 1/4”, 3/8” and 1/2-Inch Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GYLCHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L7pYCbHNPF2QM

http://www.amazon.com/GreatNeck-PSO40-4-Inch-8-Inch-Socket/dp/B00004TBL1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

This is what I got, these will be good, right? As you can tell I'm pretty dumb when it comes to mechanical stuff.

Here's. Huge thing when buying a socket set that is stored in its own case : you want the sockets to be stored on the BASE ONLY and not also on the lid.

A lot of cheap seats have sockets stores on the lid and base, that's a great way to always have a mess when you open it up.

This SUNEX case is what you should look for.

Sunex 3580, 3/8 Inch Drive Master Impact Socket Set, 80 Piece, SAE/Metric, 5/16 Inch - 3/4 Inch, 8mm - 19mm, Standard/Deep/Universal, Cr-Mo, Radius Corner, Chamfered Opening, Dual Size Markings, Heavy Duty Storage Case, Includes Star and Inverted Star Sockets, 4 Extensions, Universal Joint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LNH7728/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1pexCb99401EH

This DeWalt case is what you should avoid:

DEWALT DWMT81522 Mechanics Tool Set, Black Chrome Polish, 181 pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078BVHMVP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ysexCbW5M3QV9

If you Google for oil change DIYs for your car, you'll probably find one that lists the socket size. But my previous advice still applies here: if you want to get into doing any kind of work on your car, just buy an entire set like this (bare-bones) or this (more stuff). You'd spend about as much money on a socket wrench and the single socket you'd need as you would on that Stanley set.

these are highly recommend on here

I'd recommend this bhaco set fits under most seats or bags will get most little jobs done.

Something like this with a ratchet should give you enough leverage

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007258T4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dnB8BbY59XTPV

Better one for the money, 6 sided sockets, flare wrenches, more 1/4" stuff. Bahco are used in industry a lot, basically bluepoint quality without the pricetag

Used to borrow a Halfords pro set before I bought my own but went bahco because the 12 sided sockets are just wank.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LNH7728/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_sBDPDb3A562DM

This set will not fail you.

I have been running these for 7 years, zero broken. Full time professional mechanic.

And a bonus that you can cut the top of the case off and just stick it into a toolbox drawer for instant organization.

Just the swivel socket set included here is rebranded to Matco and sold for $200 by itself.

Lookup the sunex set 3351, shallow, deep and swivel for $112 on Amazon 7-22mm not a single size skipped.

Sunex 3351 3/8-Inch Drive Metric Impact Socket Set, Metric, Shallow/Deep, Universal Joint, 6-Point, Cr-Mo, 7mm - 22mm, 51-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JO1BO1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IOxtzbJM2WMZ5

A quick search on Amazon found 3 pass thru socket sets:

GearWrench

Craftsman

Bostitch

edit to add more:

Crescent

ChannelLock

Home Depot, Lowes, and Harbor Freight, all have house brand pass thru sets (husky, kobalt, pittsburgh).