(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best soldering heat guns

I'm not sure what you have already, but I'll link what I've enjoyed using:

THIS or THIS or THIS or THIS or THIS or Vacuum Sealer and bags from Costco or I prep the food on this and use this to put it in the bag without touching the bag...much

>rediculous

Clearly the courses don't work ;)

> had an typical class where she wanted to use online homework. We needed to buy the book and the online code hidden in the cover. When I looked it up the book with code was 200 fucking dollars

One thing that you should absolutely not do is buy some shrink wrap online and a heat gun. You would absolutely not want to buy the book, open the book, write down the code, and then re-shrink wrap the book and take it back to the book store after making it appear like it had never be opened.

That'd be a totally unethical way to save hundreds upon hundreds of dollars every semester for less than $50 initial investment. That is something I would never suggest anyone do.

No, it's a heat gun.

I don't pay nearly this much for it, but it's the same model.

VRIPtech is the company that kind of put me onto the idea, but i figured I can put all these piesces together myeslf, but cheaper (and better looking thatn that bong)

and here is a video of how it works, (not me and not my heatgun, but the principle is this)

Any thoughts on how to mount the spring? I was thinking maybe something like Bondic.

Ok, a friend made a digital vape that can be used as a bong when not vaping.

Buy a heat gun like This.

Buy a bong (glass preferably) that allows the nozzle of the heat gun to fit into the MOUTHPIECE.

Get some heavy duty wire SCREEN x 2 pieces

Get some rubber hose that fits over the STEM of the bong.

Get some motherfucking Turkey Bags and a rubber band.

Put that shit together like This.

Total Cost is about $100 and you will be vaping like a BOSS!

This http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005Q7B0/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00004TI26&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=15PYXQ51P7EZWZXA0J54

Plus This http://www.gotvape.com/store/Fatboy_12mm_Vaporizer_Bowl.php

You've also got to find a stainless steel screen for the bowl. As well as a turkey bag and a piece of bamboo. But, it's a volcano for a third of the price.

Amazon....search for "heat shrink for battery packs". Results are like this. You'll need to measure your pack and find one that fits. You should also get a heat gun something like this to properly shrink the tubing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q8I3Y0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_lkeWDbH5QR7XZ

Is the one they recommended. It works but is slow compared to most methods.

If you want to go ahead with a real reflow, grab some high temperature flux and a decent heatgun that you can adjust the temperature on.

First, you'll want to mask off the other surrounding components with Kapton tape or foil tape to insulate them. Next, squirt a thin line of flux along three of the four edges of the chip. When you start heating the chip, the flux will melt and flow under the chip. Get your heat gun and start at a low output tempurature and slowly ramp it up. Eventually, you'll want to maintain a temperature of 220°C for about 30 seconds. If you dont have a diffuser to cover the entire chip evenly, you'll want to move the tip of the heatgun in a regular pattern to maintain even temperature across the chip.

After you've finished the reflow, let the card cool off slowly for about 15-30 minutes

I don't know 100% if this is right but I would turn on the extruder and let it heat up and then take a heat gun to it, slowly peel away. Wear some kind of heat protecting glove.

Or this:
http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-8988-20-Variable-Temperature-Heat/dp/B00005Q7B0

Less portable, but only takes few seconds to get up to temperature.
Bowls= eyedroppers with silicon hose, small screen from a head shop.

The melting point of the 'boil and bite' mouth guards isn't super high so I got a cheap hot air gun like this to repair mine when it splits or gets rough chewed bits. Been using the same guard since January (tho packs usually come with 4), repaired a rather large split yesterday.

Be sure to cut the front down so it isn't touching your gums as this can cause them to recede and just isn't comfy. I also drooled on my pillow when the front was too high, lol.

VViViD+ Satin Black Premium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RG14D5H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat Gun, Tacklife HGP72AC 1700W... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079L7R41Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Auto Window Tint Film Tool Kits... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GRMH9G6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat gun is really important although the brand doesn't matter and I would recommend that toolkit for the knives and gloves (replaces the need for a squeegee) although it might be a bit overkill if you're not wrapping the whole car. I might also make a video when I wrap the next two covers

http://www.storz-bickel.com/shop-usd/product_info.php/info/p7_SOLID-VALVE-Set.html
+
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDPG700-Variable-Temperature/dp/B008TRM310/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371000871&sr=8-3&keywords=black+and+decker+heat+gun
The "volcano" is basically just a fancy heating element. Just buy a heat gun and the volcano components.

I got you fam

https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-Heat-Shrink-Tubing/dp/B0053PYF62/

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Equipment-Overlap-Welding-Voltage/dp/B01DDXLNVU/

Heat shrink tubing and a hot air gun, this way you can spend a few hundred bucks on something you are going to use for a few seconds and then throw away.

Have you watched the Sous Vide Everything videos with the heat gun? This is the one he recommends (though it is a bit pricey).

> 3) A cheap Blow Dryer. Alternatively, if wiping your items dry is too slow for you, blast it dry in seconds.

Also great for peeling stubborn stickers from non-plastic packages that might be damaged by goo-gone.

I use a heat gun, this one - http://www.amazon.com/Pit-Bull-CHIGH0012-Electric-Heat/dp/B000QWTU94

I use these all the time.

With a lighter, you have a high risk of melting holes. Use a hair dryer. If you use them enough, buy an inexpensive heat gun.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GVMFV6O

Battery OEM. Thoughts?
https://www.mobiledefenders.com/battery-for-lg-v30-authorized-oem.html

Philips head 1.5 mm screw driver/pry tools
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F303005383218

Suction cup
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112452058313

Rear glass OEM? Idk but it has adhesive
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223194015409

Mini Heat gun
(https://www.amazon.com/CAIDU-Portable-Embossing-Wrapping-Electrical/dp/B07DHKMMFK/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=heat+gun&qid=1568136619&s=gateway&sr=8-14)

Not a glue gun, a heat gun. A proper heat gun will loosen just about any adhesive, intended to melt or not.

Something like this: NEU MASTER N2190 1500W Heat Gun Kit with Dual Temperature Control with Overload Protection Four Nozzle Attachments for Stripping Paint, Bending Pipes, Lighting BBQ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSC19HL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kqIZCbFTC222G

I bought the battery replacement kit from iFixit and used a DeWalt heat gun with a temperature knob that I bought for bending my hard line water cooling loop:

https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Android/Google-Pixel-XL-Replacement-Battery/IF356-005

DEWALT D26950 Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00307B4P0

This combo got the job done for me. If you're not careful with your screen you will damage it.

It gets to about 1100F but i can never tell as the back just goes to a max of 450 which i had assumed was celsius but...it doesn't come close to 1000F

Also i think thats my problem there...i never got it hot enough nor close enough to actually get some heat going on. So there may lay my problem.

http://www.amazon.com/HomeRight-C800552-Heat-Deluxe-10-piece/dp/product-description/B000095SHQ/ref=dp_proddesc_0?ie=UTF8&n=228013&s=hi

I know it's a VERY dangerous and risky thing to do and has a very low success rate but i guess i just want to know what is a good heat gun to use?

Dude, just all kinds of no. Giant rookie mistake, and I wish I could find the man who started this shit and punch his dick off.

Don't ever light your kiwi. Its counter productive. Its flammable because of the oil in it. The same oil that shines your boot. You want to know how to make them motherfuckers bling bling? I got you. I wish I had pictures, but I swear to Christ my old boots were shinier and more reflective than my low quarters. Holding my hand above my head I could count my fingers. Here we go.

First off ditch the lighter and get yourself a heat gun. Pick a brand, doesn't matter,

next, throw that busted ass polish out and get you some new shit, because you ruined it. This first part will take a couple hours, but is all prep work, and you only have to do it once. After that, its a quick shine and you're good to go.

Next, start cooking your boots. Hold that dragons ass close enough where you can feel it from the inside of your boot, but not so close you destroy the leather. Warm it up and glob some of that polish on there. Real thick. Cook it again. You'll see the boot suck that shit right in, and it will gray over.

Slap some more of that black tar heroin on there and cook it again.

Repeat.

Repeat.

Repeat.

Repeat until it seems like its taking forever to suck in. You'll know. That's the last time. Yo don't have to get to boot to suck it in.

Your base layer(s) is (are) done. Your leather is no saturated with polish making all future polish's easy.

With that last failed attempt to get the kiwi to suck in still fresh on the boot, now you add your polish layer. I prefer to use Lincoln parade wax for the shine after wasting the kiwi in the boot, but that's up to you.

Using a strip of newish (fresher the better, no so thread bare) white t-shirt (browns aren't soft enough), start polishing like you would normally. That is, little bit of wax in a thin-ish layer all over, then polish with some water in small tiny circles. Make sure to not just start polishing with a new cloth right off the bat. You want the cloth you're using to get progressively cleaner. If your cloth is too clean, youll just wipe wax off. Small circles all over a couple times, then shift the fabric. Repeat until your cloth is hardly stained, or you can shave with your boot, whichever comes first.

And if you really want to stick it in yore chief's craw, pick up a pair of Corcoran Marauders.

Easiest boot to shine, and man do they gleam.