Reddit mentions: The best spark plug & ignition tools
We found 132 Reddit comments discussing the best spark plug & ignition tools. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 40 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. OEMTOOLS 25025 26 Blade Master Feeler Gauge
- 26 Hardened, Tempered Steel Blades
- Measures: 0.0015 Inch (0.038 mm) to 0.025 Inch (0.635 mm)
- Chrome Plated Main Shaft for Easy Clean Up and Professional Look
- Each Blade is Laser Etched with Inches and Millimeters
- Blade Protector has Thumb Notch to Aid in Removal of Blades
Features:
Specs:
Color | Original Version |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 26 BLADE |
Weight | 0.19 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
2. GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive 6 Pt. 5/8" x 6" Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket - 80546
- Entry Angle guides fastener
- Serration depth as deep as the fastener
- Large hard stamped identifications
- Swivel Spark Plug
- Drive Tang Size : 3/8 inch
Features:
Specs:
Color | ⭐️ Exclusive |
Height | 0.8 inches |
Length | 8.5 inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 5/8" |
Weight | 0.43 Pounds |
Width | 2.4 inches |
3. Lisle 65600 Broken Plug Remover for Ford
- This tool set removes broken spark plugs from 2004 and newer Triton 3 valve per cylinder engines
- Porcelain pusher is used to press the porcelain piece, without breaking the porcelain, farther into the plug tip
- Oil film present on item to prevent rust post black oxide process. Uses a tapered left-hand thread remover to pull the broken spark plug from the head.
- This provides space for the left hand thread remover to bite into the stainless steel plug tip so it can then be pulled
- Package dimension is 5.38 inches width by 8.56 inches height by 2.13 inches depth.Blow-molded storage case included
Features:
Specs:
Color | Factory |
Height | 1.5 Inches |
Length | 7.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | One Size |
Weight | 1.81 Pounds |
Width | 4.75 Inches |
4. Lisle 52990 Spark Plug Pliers
- Two pulling positions help make removing spark plug wires a safe and easy job
- Specially shaped, cushioned jaws grip the boot straight on or from the side
- Plastic handle grips help prevent shock
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 0.88 Inches |
Length | 10.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | One Size |
Weight | 0.4 Pounds |
Width | 4.25 Inches |
5. Assenmacher Specialty Tools SP1412 14mm, 12-Point Thin Walled Spark Plug Socket
- 14mm, 12-Point Spark Plug Socket
- 3/8" Drive
- Spark Plug Socket is Slender in Design to Fit Application
- Comparable to BMW #121220
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.75 Inches |
Length | 2.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.13 Pounds |
Width | 0.75 Inches |
6. Lisle 20610 Inline Spark Tester
- Gives a Visual Check of the Ignition System.
- Quickly diagnose problems with all ignition systems. Connect the tool between the spark plug and the plug wire.
- The tool is double-ended to offer a straight boot and a 90boot on one tool. With the engine running, the tool flashes a mirror image of ignition spark.
- Patent: 6,714,015
Features:
Specs:
Color | Factory |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 10.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | One Size |
Weight | 0.31 Pounds |
Width | 5.75 Inches |
7. Automotive Specialty Tools Colortune for 14mm Spark Plug
- ➊ size:69*450*285mm | weight:14.3kgs
- ➋ BMS do not included,if you need BMS,pls message me.
- ➌ ≥2000 times cycle life
- ➍ 1C max charge rate | 1C max discharge rate
- ➎ Light Weight | Easy Installation
Features:
8. Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine
- A Three Step Kit for Removing Spark Plugs that have Seized in the Engine Head and Broken.
- Includes a unique Porcelain Puller Tool that snaps onto the terminal of a broken spark plug to pull the porcelain out.
- Also includes a Porcelain Pusher for when the porcelain breaks off in the spark plug tip and a Self-Tapping Puller to remove the seized metal tip.
- Comes in a blow molded plastic case for storage.
- Includes a unique Porcelain Puller Tool that snaps onto the terminal of a broken spark plug to pull the porcelain out
- Also includes a Porcelain Pusher for when the porcelain breaks off in the spark plug tip and a Self-Tapping Puller to remove the seized metal tip
- Comes in a blow molded plastic case for storage
- Order Lisle 65710 for the Porcelain Puller individually, or 65730 for the Porcelain Puller, Right Handed Nut and Housing
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black & Silver |
Height | 1.99999999796 Inches |
Length | 8.79921258945 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | May 2015 |
Size | One Size |
Weight | 1.89 Pounds |
Width | 5.20078739627 Inches |
9. Caldera Thin Wall Spark Plug Socket 12-Point, 14-millimeters
- This 12 point 14mm spark plug socket is compatible with 2007+ BMW 3.0L turbocharged engines such as the N55, N54, N52, N20, N26, S55, N63, B46, B48, and B58
- Along with certain BMW engines, this thin walled socket is compatible with a variety of MINI vehicles such as the R55, R56, R57, and R60
- Works with some Nissan vehicles.Such as Nissan Altima 3.5L(V6 VQ35),350Z(V6 VQ35),370Z(V6 VQ37),Infiniti G35(VQ35)/G37(VQ37),2010 Versa (MR18DE),2010 Sentra 2.0L,2012 MURANO
- Works with some Toyota vehicles.Such as 2009+ Corolla (2ZR-FE 1.8L)
- 3/8-inch drive, 12 point, 14-millimeter(9/16") with thin wall deep well design
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.72 Inches |
Length | 2.5 Inches |
Width | 0.72 Inches |
10. GEARWRENCH 3 Pc. 3/8" Drive 6 Pt. Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Set - 41740D
- Long reach 5/8" magnetic swivel spark plug socket set 60 tooth pawls (120 positions) providing a 3° swing arc so you can turn fasteners in tighter confines
- The swivel allows for reach past manifold
- Lengths of 4", 6", and 11"
- Corrosion resistant finish
- Includes blow mold case for storage and organization
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.3 Inches |
Length | 14.9 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | November 2014 |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 4.5 Inches |
11. Neiko Tools USA In-Line Spark Plug Tester
New In Line Spark Plug Tester Tool Test Ignition System
Specs:
Width | 1.1 Inches |
12. Performance Tool W80527 25 Blade Metric Feeler Gauge
- 25 straight blades
- Metric Sizes: .04, .05, .06, .07, .08, .09, .10, .15, .20, .25, .30, .35, .40, .45, .50, .55, .60, .65, .70, .75, .80, .85, .90, .95 and 1.00 mm
Features:
Specs:
Color | Other |
Height | 13 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | September 2016 |
Size | 25 Blade Metric Feeler Gauge |
Weight | 0.19 Pounds |
Width | 13.3 Inches |
13. Oregon 42-452 Spark Plug Wrench
Replaces Briggs & Stratton 19374Fits: ¾” and 13/16” spark plugsRust ProofElectro-plated
Specs:
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.22 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
14. Ram-Pro in-Line Spark Plug Engine Ignition Tester, 6-12 Volt Fool-Proof – Pick Up Coil/Armature Diagnostic Detector Tool – for Automotive, Car, Lawnmower, Small & Big Internal/External Engines
- The Ram-Pro Engine Spark Tester Probe is a must have diagnostic tool for any engine with a spark plug, & can quickly and easily diagnose ignition/engine outboard motor issues or a fault in the fuel delivery system
- HOW TO USE: Simply connect the tester between the spark plug and the plug wire, if spark is being sent, the tester will mirror the spark and light up - Find dirty spark plugs, defective points, bad cables or connections, etc.
- DIMENSIONS: 6" boot/cable, 5" shaft/light housing; 2.2 oz. DESIGN: Nickel Plated Shaft, Double ended flexible tool offers a straight boot -– Internal bulb lasts for years, but is replaceable through transparent housing
- MUST HAVE: When engine won't start, gives instant answer to 'does it have spark?' - Saves time, frustration and money while also offering a safe secure way to identify spark
- USE FOR: Essential Troubleshooting for All Internal & External Combustion Engines, cars, trucks, motorcycles, lawnmowers, chainsaws, trimmers, snow-blowers, generators etc. - A must have for any individual, professional mechanic garage and auto shop
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Pack |
15. A & E Hand Tools 4450A E-Z Grip Spark Plug Gap Gauge
Has a pocket-clipMetric gapping scale shown on reverse sideTool includes a recess specifically designed to adjust electrodesCountry of Origin : China
Specs:
Color | Orange |
Height | 0.5 Inches |
Length | 7.7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | One Size |
Weight | 0.05 Pounds |
Width | 3.4 Inches |
16. EWK Spark Plug Boot Removal Tool Spark Plug Wire Puller Ignition Coil Removal Tool for VW Audi New Beetle Golf VR6 T10112
- 【 Work Smart 】 This spark plug boot removal Tool T10112 is a special tool for quickly remove the spark plug lead without destroying any component.
- 【 Time Saver 】 The angled shaft fits well into narrow plug cavity with no manifold dismantling needed, reach the plugs on cylinder #2 and #3 smoothly.
- 【 High Quality 】 Shaft and boot end are constructed from premium stainless steel for maximum strength and longevity. The ergonomically grip convenient to use.
- 【 Applications 】 Volkswagen – New Beetle 2.0 engine AZJ (AEG), Golf IV & V 1.6 engine (AVH), 1993-2005 2.0L 4 cylinder (AZG), 1998-2006 1.8L 4 cylinder (BBW), 2006 and later 2.0L 4 cylinder turbo (BDC); Audi – 1998-2006 1.8L 4 cylinder turbo (BEV), 2006 and later 2.0L 4 cylinder turbo (BGD). *Not recommended for non-VW/Audi plug leads.
- 【 Excellent WorKing Experience】Durable products with 12+6 months warranty, reply within 24 hours, ship out within 24 hours to achieve fast delivery. Contact us if you need further assistance.
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 0.46 Pounds |
17. Motion Pro 08-0175 18mm Spark Plug Socket
- Thin wall design to fit into low clearance plug cavity
- Socket can be driven with various tools including the Motion Pro spark plug ratchet wrench
- Can be used with a 3/8 ratchet, 13/16 wrench or a screwdriver through an 8.5 millimeter hole for removal and installation.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 0.9 Inches |
Length | 7.5 Inches |
Release date | September 2012 |
Size | 18 Millimeter |
Width | 3.9 Inches |
18. EWK 17mm Spark Plug Wrench Boot Puller Removal Tool for Mercedes Benz V6 V8
- 【 Easy to Use】This wrench allows it to fit into metal spark plug boots easily. To change spark plugs for optimal performance and better fuel economy.
- 【 Special Angle 】The 17mm spark plug wrench with specially designed angle along its tapered machined surface. To remove the spark plug in hard-to-reach places without damaging the wire.
- 【 Necessity For Maintenance 】There are 16 spark plugs and wires in different positions and depth in Mercedes Benz engine. Replace spark plugs in scheduled to prevent the engine misfire, rough idling, or increased fuel usage.
- 【 Applicable 】 Design for Mercedes Benz M110, M112 and M113, V6 and V8 engines. Include: 280, 280C, 280E, 280CE, 280S, 280SE, 280SL, 280SLC, C-class, SLK, CLK, E-class, SL-class, S-class, ML-class, G-class.
- 【 EWK Assurance】Excellent WorKing experience guaranteed! EWK provides you premium quality tools and the best service with 12 months warranty. If there is any problem or concern with our products, please contact us for assistance.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.39 Inches |
Length | 11.81 Inches |
Width | 1.97 Inches |
19. OEM TOOLS 22887 5/8 Inch Magnetic Spark Plug Socket, 3/8 Inch Drive | For Removing and Installing 5/8 Inch Spark Plugs | Strong Magnet Forms a Tight Hold on Spark Plug | Rust Resistant
Knurling position is optimized for best finger gripping positionSmooth satin finish is easy and cleanMagnetic sockets won't wear out or be damaged by oilDeep marking for easy identificationKnurling position is optimized for best finger gripping positionSmooth satin finish is easy to clean, won't sho...
Specs:
Color | Multi |
Height | 0.8 Inches |
Length | 5.4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 5/8-Inch |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 1.7 Inches |
20. Lisle 19380 Spark Tester
Pocket clipFlashing bulb indicates sparkTest without puncturing the wireCountry of Origin : China
Specs:
Color | Factory |
Height | 0.5 Inches |
Length | 7.2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | One Size |
Weight | 0.000625 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on spark plug & ignition tools
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where spark plug & ignition tools are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
I just got an 08 WK Limited 5.7 with 51k on it. Here is what I did immediately, I have the previous service records and it seems as though some of the work may have been done, it wasn't 100% clear and I just wanted to know a baseline.
Replace PCV Valve (cheap part, just unscrews by hand to replace, super easy), Clean Throttle Body (remove air box, remove throttle body, clean with ONLY isopropol alcohol and a clean rag) and install Billet Technology (or equivalent) Catch Can. This is all done because the PCV system on the Hemi basically sucks, you'll see when you remove the throttle body that it will most likely be gunked up, the PCV lets too much oil through. This is cured with the catch can. Immediately helps throttle response and minor hep to fuel economy.
Replace MAP Sensor. Honestly not really sure why, all the forums say do it, it's a $20 part and basically pop-out, pop-in replacement. A little tricky to get your hand in behind the manifold the get it, takes some maneuvering but be patient, you'll get it. Said to have positive effect on fuel economy.
Replace EGR Valve. This can be tricky as the alternator blocks one of the bolts. Many people will tell you to cut the bolt and install a new shorter one. This seems like a lot of extra work to me. I just removed the belt (easy to do) and unbolted the alternator (2 bolts). This took me all of about 6 minutes to do, then the new EGR (and new gaskets) just bolt back on.
While I had that off I replaced the serpentine belt. Cheap enough, and why the hell not, now I know exactly ow old it is. While you're in there check all your pulleys, tensioner, etc. Make sure they move smoothly and quietly. I forgot this step and I DID have a squeak I wanted to address. I still have said squeak. Next nice day I'm gonna get back in there and check.
Spark plugs. I have an 08, so it wasn't hard. Unbolt each coil, gently crack the plugs with a ratchet (I have a great plug ratchet set I'll link below, get it, it will help with all your plug changes on any deep well hemi). Change your plugs. I got the Champion 57- Copper core generally the recommended plug), dab of dielectric on the end (no anti-size, I don't like it, I change plugs every 30k so I shouldn't need it, some say anti seize leads to accidental over-torque, personal preference I guess). Gap plugs to .44 and torque to 13ft.lbs.
Next I did K&N drop in air filter, swapped my air resonator for a SRT Inlet tube (take off, bought online for $20 shipped, search the STR forums for the for sale items) and extended the drain hole for more air inlet. Sounds great, that throaty cold air intake everyone loves without the risk of slurping up some water and hydro locking. Be sure to perform regular main on the filter, clean and il it as required by the spec.
Oil change. Mobil 1 Synthetic, 5w-20 & Mopar filter. Because oil change....
I also installed the fumoto quick valve to change my oil easier. It scares some people, I looked it over and feel confident that it will not open accidentally, it has a decent spring type safety.
I plan to soon flush and fill tranny, radiator, transfer case & differentials. After that is all done I may swap out a few more sensors. IAT, O2, Crank Position, etc. With all that complete I will feel as confident as I possibly can in the maintenance of my Hemi.
I may point out that i'm not really mechanically inclined. I have just been doing a lot of research on forums (jeepgarage, cherokeesrt8, jeepsunlimited, etc) I founds lots of good write ups, reviews and information. Take you time, do your research and everything will be there.
Generally my truck runs smoother, quieter, more powerful and a little better MPG. It's only been about 100 miles since I did all this, but for the overall $$ I spend (under $400) it was totally worth it. At a dealer my guess is this is like 1500 worth of work. Below are some links. Have fun.
Tune up kit
http://www.amazon.com/GRAND-CHEROKEE-COMMANDER-5-7L-HEMI/dp/B003ZW9EUM
Spark Plug Tool
http://www.amazon.com/KD-Tools-3-Piece-Magnetic-Universal/dp/B000NIEECO
Fumoto Oil valve
http://www.fumotousa.com/parts.php?partname=F106N&partnumber=33
Spark Plug Change Tutorial
http://www.jeepgarage.org/f156/diy-hemi-5-7l-spark-plug-change-50750.html
EGR (I didnt follow exaclt, i just removed alternator, this shows all steps including cutting botl. You choose your own adventure here...)
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?516169-DIY-how-to-install-a-new-EGR-w-pics&highlight=egr%20valve
PCV Valve
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/changing-pcv-valve-1336134/
Throttle body cleaning
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/throttle-body-cleaning-tips-1342502/index2.html
MAP Sensor (start at post #8 in this thread, thats where the good info starts, but feel free to read from beginning if you want)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/5-7l-map-sensor-location-1340713/
And for ALL the info on your WK, use this site as your bible.
http://wkjeeps.com/
Hope this helps a bit!!!
Not an expert, but
I'd focus on the drive train issues first, get all those tires working, might be a lost cause before going any deeper, but others will have to help with that, I take that kind of stuff to my mechanic.
Brake pedal could be that it's low on brake fluid, or one of the brake calipers is stuck.
My quad has a foot brake like that and a hand brake, but the foot brake only brakes 1 tire. That tire has two brake calipers on it's roter, one to the foot break and one to the hand brake. So the hand brake is all 4 wheels, and the foot brake is 1 wheel. There is a master cylinder on my hand brake and another on my right rear tire (foot brake). If my foot brakes master cylinder runs low or springs a leak, my pedal goes through the floor like in your pic but I'll still have brakes on the hand brake. It's like a double/emergency braking system. If my hand brake goes out I can down shift (engine brake) and lay on that foot brake to brake and not hit a tree...
___
Fuel wise, it's likely carburetor being old. The carburetor should have a primer on it that injects gas into the carb when you press/pull it. Those generally have a diaphragm in them (rubber) that tends to go bad over time and cause a fuel leak.
If you can find a diagram of the carburetor that would help emensely.
Really though, you should take the whole carburetor off, take it apart and give it a bath in carb cleaner (no plastic/rubber in there) and clean all the jets out.
Also, they make rebuild kits for most carb's that come with all new jets, and pilot screw etc. See if you can find one. I typically just replace them all, easier and then I have spares.
Also, inspect the carb's vent hose and make sure it's intact and not clogged. Check the fuel line too, for damage/rot.
You should also remove the gas tank and clean it out. Take the petcock off and inspect the filters and valve, then clean the whole gas tank out so there's no dirt/bad gas in there.
Then check/change the spark plug(s). Before running it though, I'd check the valve clearance on the valves, guides on that online.
Once all that's done, it should run good and not leak gas.
Then you can address your other issues.
Pending how old it is, there are some parts I might replace just because:
If the current ones are working, call them spares.
Starters and solenoids are cheap, voltage regulators OEM are expensive, but you can buy a few after markets pretty cheap to have spares.
Tool wise, I can recommend at least the following:
Then your typical ratchet sets, air tools, impact guns, etc.
And socket extensions (long ones) because getting to some things is a royal pita.
Minatures can be a whole different beast, but its rewarding to pull it off on an FDM. I would lower your layer height to one or two nozzle volumes (if you have a .04 do .04 or 0.08) and slow everything real far down. I have a Wanhao v2.1, but it should be about the same premise. they take a while but turn out great. support helps too.
Feeler gauge -- just a more accurate way to check the bed height, and you will have a physical number you can report if you are having issues. Just make sure to adjust the bed until you feel slight resistance, kinda like what you do with paper. I think your printer can accept a auto bed leveler (control board should allow it) you may want to look into it. Looks like you have a metal bed, so inductive might work best for you. It will really help out.
link 1 - the notches are overkill, it's the straight edge you want because you're aligning the frets not the fretboard. Amazon has an 18" steel ruler that should work fine https://www.amazon.com/Westcott-Stainless-Steel-Office-Inches/dp/B000093IJ1/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483315326&sr=8-1&keywords=18%27+ruler
link 2 That's overkill as well, you'll end up using just one or two of the files. I don't like the fret guards because it's more efficient to tape all the frets at one time than it is to tape up the guard 22 times. If you want to round the fret ends this file is similar to one I've used and will work fine. Just make sure the edge of the file doesn't saw the fretboard https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Triangular-Ergonomic-American-Pattern/dp/B001R1UZII/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1483315923&sr=8-12&keywords=triangular+file
link 3 - That's fine, there's another one $1 cheaper. They're basically all stamped out in China, and do the same as the $25 Stew Mac one. https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-String-Action-Ruler-Guitar/dp/B01HM8SNHY/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1483316161&sr=1-3&keywords=String+Action+Gauge
Your choices are fine, but I'm a cheap dude. And while you're in the ordering mood, you might get a set of automotive feeler gauges. This is what you can use with the ruler to set the amount of relief the neck should have. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4/ref=pd_sim_267_16?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BA62DPTD81NDZKM36V6C
More on neck relief from Fender's web site: http://www2.fender.com/experience/tech-talk/how-to-measure-neck-relief/
If you wanna learn how to work on your own guitars, Frets.com is a great resource, here's their link on neck relief and buzz diagnosis http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Setup/BuzzDiagnosis/Relief/relief.html
Good luck!
Where to begin.
First off, never again put a meter lead on a spark plug wire. I have no idea why that meter didn't stop working forever. You are hitting the meter with 30,000 volts when it's probably not designed to measure over 1000 volts. You check for spark using a spark plug, or one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6 and a video how to use it is here: https://youtu.be/eQBtzk-dGYM
Second, Your starter clutch is fine. It's allowing the starter to turn the engine over. That's the first function. The second function comes into play when the engine starts, and you haven't gotten there yet. IT allows the engine to run without the engine driving the starter motor. The thing you see moving in that window is the flywheel, and it's connected to the crankshaft, so it's going to spin whenever the engine is turning over to start or when it's running. Cover that hole up. your problem isn't there.
Third, the little philips head screw on your carburetor is a drain to empty your carburetor float bowls for winter storage, or to set the float height. It's not going to help you start the engine, although the fact gas is coming out of it is a good sign that that carb, at least, is getting fuel. But, tighten it down and leave it.
Fourth, and this part scares me, is how do you know the left carb needs a vacuum diaphragm (as they're more commonly called)? Good on your for being able to repair your starter motor and get it back together so it turns the engine over, but it's very easy to screw up a carburetor without even knowing it if you don't know what you're doing.
You need to get a socket for your spark plug, they need to come out to see if they're wet, or fouled, or even have a proper gap.
I could go on forever, but go HERE and start reading. You could go straight to chapter 13, "Trouble Shooting a Bike that Will Not Start," but you'd be doing yourself a favor by starting at the beginning and reading everything.
Good luck, man. I know you're trying and I commend you for that, but I saw so many things in just that short video that made me cringe. I don't know where you live, but if you live anywhere near Syracuse, NY, I could probably help you get that running in short order. I've repaired bikes professionally (and in fact am a very busy industrial electrician/mechanic,) and was a service manager at a Kawasaki dealer for a while. I've been repairing motorcycles on and off for over 45 years, since I was 13, and fixing mowers and chains saw even before that. I know what I'm doing and if I come across something I don't know, I'll find out and won't bullshit you in the meantime. For example, the guy who asked about valve adjustment is not wrong, he's just jumped too far ahead. The fundamentals of a viable engine are fuel, compression, and spark. It seems like you have all 3, so it's probably something relatively minor preventing you from getting started.
It took me about an hour and a half, but that was after already having done the dis-assembly to get to the spark plugs once before. Roughly half of that was actually changing the plugs and the other half was dis-assembling and re-assembling the air intake tubing and valve assembly before and after. You could definitely do it faster if you knew what you were doing - this was my first time changing spark plugs on any vehicle.
One thing I wasn't explicitly warned about and therefore didn't realize is the atypical spark plug diamater: 14mm. I tried to change the plugs last weekend and realized only when I got to removing the first spark plug that the spark plugs aren't standard 3/8 or 5/8 inch diameter, so my sockets wouldn't work. The HR engine (at least) takes 14mm - I think all VQ35s might take the same. I ordered this socket off amazon.ca since I was able to get fast shipping. It seems 14mm plug sockets advertised for BMWs will do the trick.
I ordered these spark plugs off ebay.ca, the whole set of 6 NGK laser iridium plugs was just under $100 USD. I made an effort to get the best plugs I could find, so you could probably find cheaper if you wanted. I think it's worth it to spend the extra ~$50 for the best though.
Here is the OEM upstream sensor you need: http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4099-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380741249&sr=8-1&keywords=2344099
You don't necessarily have to buy it off Amazon but they have the best price for it. Denso is Hondas OEM manufacturer. Make sure it is the Denso 234-4099 model number. It is what it came with. Also, for spark plugs and wires, use NGK. NGK ZFR5F-11. You should be able to go to an auto parts store and get those. It shouldn't cost more than $3 a piece and you need 4. Here are the spark plug wires: http://www.amazon.com/NGK-HE76-Premium-Spark-Plug/dp/B000IY8ODS/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741594&sr=1-1-fkmr1&ymm=1998%3Ahonda%3Acivic&keywords=1998+honda+civic+dx+spark+plug+wires
As for tools, you'll need a 7/8" offset o2 sensor socket and a breaker bar because it will be on tight! For the spark plugs, you'll need a 5/8 spark plug socket with a rubber piece or a magnet inside to grip the spark plug. the wires won't require tools but you'll need a bit of dielectric grease to prevent the elements from getting to the connections.
I recommend you use this spark plug socket. It's treated me really well and is very durable: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1380741751&sr=1-1&keywords=spark+plug+tool Also, it won't hurt if you go and buy a 3/8" 6" extension for your 3/8" ratchet.
Get NGK spark plugs. They are what the engine is designed for, and they're pre-gapped.
The pros use a tool like this to reach into the wells without worrying about a chain of extensions coming apart. Whether its worth the cost is up to you.
I always use anti-seize. I don't think its as important as it used to be, but its cheap and it gives me peace of mind. Also be sure to put dielectric great on the wires.
If you do it, be prepared to take a lot of stuff out, especially the battery and air intake. Its not an easy job, but it can save you a good amount of money.
sometimes you have to put it right on a steel bolt off the frame/engine/wherever to see a good spark.. but it's usually not that hard to see. Another option is to get an inline spark tester... https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6
harbor freight does have one.. should work well enough. Good to have regardless.
If you're confident it's not sparking, First replace the plug and try again. it's the cheapest and most logical possible cause. Next would be battery.. sucks because it costs a fair amount of money. Then the coil under the gas tank.. if battery and new plug don't fix it (still a weak or no spark). That inline tester would be pretty handy at that point but if you have $65, get the cap on coil replacemnt/upgrade that SSW makes.. http://www.sisnerosspeedworks.com/dr-z400-cap-on-coil-conversion
It's not an upgrade in the sense of performance or anything.. but it gives your bike modern tech and will almost guarantee that none of these are the issue you are having. Really, replacing those three parts is good for you to do eventually anyway.. the coil is not so necessary unless you have an issue, but the other two are pretty much a periodic thing you would do eventually . So essentially you really only spend on the coil where you may not have to. If none of that fixes it.. your harness has an issue somewhere and get a meter out and start measuring. I think that's the route I would go.. of course I'm trying to isolate this over a keyboard on reddit so I reserve the right to be a little bit off on my recommendations! Hah
Maybe look for another break some where?
The Coil pack is good, fuel injector is good, the connector is good, and the spark plug is good.
I would try to see if the fuel injector is firing at all. If it is, then I would run a spark test (there is a special tool, its like $12. It plugs onto your spark plug, then your coil pack plugs onto it. Every time your spark plug is suppose to fire it, a light will turn on.)
Here is one on amazon for $7
Maybe you can go to harbor freight and try to buy one?
if both the fuel injector and spark are working, then maybe run a compression test? Thats usually the last test we perform for a misfiring cylinder. Most of the time it ends up being spark.
You're right that automation, when done right, is generally more reliable and desirable due to precise repeatability. But the issue here is that the current ABL sensors/systems, from an engineering perspective, are not done right.
A properly engineered auto bed leveling system would actually turn the screws and physically level the bed. But the existing ABL sensors don't do that. They take readings and compute in firmware the orientation of the bed, and cause the Z axis to constantly adjust during the length of the print to compensate. This method opens the door to other issues that are unique to an ABL-enabled system:
I don't think I have any "superstar talent", as you put it. I just use a feeler gauge to set a known distance from the nozzle to the bed in one corner, and zero out a digital dial gauge that I have mounted to my extruder carriage during leveling. Then I just move the extruder head around each corner of the build plate, adjusting the bed screws until the dial gauge reads within +/- 0.01mm (the tolerance of the gauge itself) of zero on each corner. It is a perfectly repeatable process, and takes no more than 2-3 minutes to get a perfectly level bed. (Edit: This is my method using those tools because I'm a perfectionist, but good results can also be had with the tried-and-true and dirt-cheap "paper between nozzle and bed" method). On a properly rigid system with good compression on the bed leveling springs, I only have to level once a month at most...and that's usually when I've changed something in the system that invalidates my previous leveling anyways.
All this to say...I just believe your initial post was overly hyperbolic. It sounds like you had a bad experience, and if ABL worked to solve that problem for you, great! But to use your singular experience as a reason to emphatically suggest at length that someone new to the hobby should not even consider any printer that comes without ABL, especially when there are countless more people who have entered the hobby just fine without ABL? That's a bit much.
I used [a gap tool](CTA Tools 3235 Ramp-Type Spark Plug Gapper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00144AZ6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fP7yzb4SG09CC)
and [a spark plug socket](GearWrench 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lS7yzbJ13QJA3.) like these and it was pretty easy. The spark plug sockets either come with a rubber gasket that grips the spark plug or a magnet so you can get them down into the chamber and get the old ones out easily.
To remove the coils, I believe, you'll either have to have a deep well socket or a standard box wrench will do. It's also recommended that you torque the spark plugs to the manufacturer's specs if you have a torque wrench handy.
I don't own the bike, but here's the manual. Air compressor the gunk out of the recess before removing the spark plug. Bikes typically come with the spark plug tool in the original tool kit. If you didn't get one with it, ask a moto friend if they have one or head to a moto wrecker or bike shop and see if they have one spare, they ususally looks like this. Otherwise, buy the new spark plugs, then buy the matching spark plug socket.
Oh man, I know exactly how you feel! My 2.5i OB started misfiring like crazy last spring and it was a pain trying to diagnose it - I used injector cleaner, valve cleaner, cleaned my MAF and intake, swapped my MAF, and a ton of other things...finally decided to go for the plugs and wires, and after taking out the old ones found that my cylinder #4 wire and plug were dead - put in new plugs and wires all around, and it was like having a new car! I never would have suspected it to be the plugs because the car started and idled absolutely fine, but now I know!
Also, this is a lifesaver when swapping out spark plugs:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0014ZVSVK/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?refRID=1406E10SHZEDKB3XHWDP&ref_=pd_sim_auto_3
Love your OB by the way. Cheers!
It is not possible to tell why it won't start just by listening. It kind of tries to fire twice, this could be weak spark or poor fuel supply that gets a bit better at that point. Or, one cylinder has low compression and the starter can turn faster on that stroke, but hopefully this is not the case.
If you want to do some diagnosis, check for spark and fuel. To check for fuel, try spraying some quick start into the throttle body (where the engine gets is air). This is a substitute for gas, if the engine tries to start then good chance you have a fuel supply problem - bad pump, relay, maybe a clogged filter. Or it is out of gas... I once watched some guys try to start/boost start a car, someone came along with a can of gas, put some in, and bingo that was it all along. To check for spark, the best way is to get a spark tester, which you plug in inline with a spark plug and watch what happens when trying to start. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HU2L1NU/ref=sxts_kp_bs_lp_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=YUBIU&pf_rd_r=D9W4KSPDG9DHQZT4BGBG&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01HU2L1NU&pd_rd_w=yHcJX&pf_rd_i=spark+tester&pd_rd_r=c7b11fc8-bff3-4e6a-a8b8-690513c01be1&ie=UTF8&qid=1542685893&sr=1
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I actually don't know, but if you just need basic truss rod/action adjustments, I would recommend learning to do it yourself. It's really not that hard and the tools can be found at any local hardware store. Adjust in this order:
Truss Rod: You will need Feeler Gauges and a Capo on the first fret. press down with one had on the low E on the fret where the neck meets the body and stick a feeler gauge (.010") between the fret and the E string halfway between the first fret and the one you are pressing (usually 8th or 9th). Adjust the truss rod until the gap allows the gauge to slide in without pushing the string, and with no residual gap. The truss rod section of this page is good.
Bridge Height: You need a 6" Steel Ruler to measure the strings to your comfort, around 5/64's of an inch on the low E and 4/64's on the high e measured at the 17th fret. Adjust the bridge height with a screwdriver or allen wrenches as applicable.
Nut Height: You'll need your feeler gauges again and nut files that match the gauge of each string. You may be able to find a cheap alternative in a hardware store. As a rule of thumb, any tool branded as a luthier tool probably has a dirt cheap exact alternative at your local hardware store. Nuts should be filed down so that the string lays in halfway in the groove, halfway over the top. Bottom of the trough should be filed down to be .010" from the top of the first fret (use the feeler gauge).
Intonation: quoting from that fender link i posted above
>Set the pickup selector switch in the middle position, and turn the volume and tone controls to their maximum settings. Check tuning. Check each string at the 12th fret, harmonic to fretted note (make sure you are depressing the string evenly to the fret, not the fingerboard). If sharp, lengthen the string by adjusting the saddle back. If flat, shorten the string by moving the saddle forward. Remember, guitars are tempered instruments! Re-tune, play and make further adjustments as needed.
skipping the nut height isn't the end of the world if you dont want to shell out for the files.
Edit: oh and pretty much any tool has a high quality demo video on stewmac.com so check those out.
I have an amazon gift card. These look good?
GEARWRENCH 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VPh8CbWQXEXA9
A & E Hand Tools 4450A E-Z Grip Spark Plug Gap Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YKMCDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RQh8CbWQM1TVT
One of the best, cheapest tools I have bought is a deep magnetic spark plug socket. Swivels to get at those funky angles, too. Super nifty.
Spray something like WD40 or Plusgas down the middle, it might help.
You can also get a specific tool for removing plug leads. It gets a better grip than pliers would: Lisle 52990 Spark Plug Pliers https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001PN88NC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dAf2CbNGDFQSX
Just make sure you don't use it too far down the boot or you end up gripping the bit that's clipped to the spark plug - you're then making the job harder as you're then basically gripping the plug itself.
Here's a list of basics that I bought recently to give you an idea:
Feeler Gauges
Hex Key Wrench Set
String Action Gauge
String Winder
Contact Cleaner for Electronics
Neck Rest
I already have various sized screw drivers, but if I didn't that would be on the list as well.
The above would be enough to do a basic setup: adjust truss rod, adjust action, get into the guts and clean the electronics. Everything will fit in a beat up old shoe box haha.
Along with YouTube videos, this book is a good reference guide. It has everything from basic repair and maintenance information all the way to repairing a broken neck or trying to repair a messed up truss rod.
Specifically for my truck I have:
a flexing spark plug socket like this one and spark plug pullers
An OBD II Scanner
Auto jack(s)
An oil pan and an oil filter wrench or other tool that makes the filter easier to remove
And, of course, jumper cables, a poncho or two, some spare water bottles and all that good stuff that stays in the truck too.
Edit: Honestly, this is a great place to start--Stanley 65-Piece Homeowner's Tool Kit
Well shit I don't know my asshole from a 2 liter, but on my 2001 vr6 the spark plugs wirez needed a special doohickey tool that would grab the connector without busting the wire, it looks like a long t-handle with a cutout on the end.
https://www.amazon.com/EWK-Puller-Remover-Removal-Beetle/dp/B01MS3Y2FS/ref=asc_df_B01MS3Y2FS/
If you don't have that, maybe you can make something like it from a coathanger?
It's actually very easy. I'm a total newbie - if you go through my posts, you'll see that I bought my first guitar in June and that the Rocksmith community helped a lot.
Since then I learned how to set up (truss rod, action, intonation, pickup height) and change the tuners/ bridges of my guitars. The key here is to not be afraid of your guitar anymore - I used to be scared shitless I would break it. No, I won't. The thing is tough as hell, and you need to first overcome that fear. Fun fact, the first guitar I tried to perform a setup on was a $1000 Gibson. I know, I'm stupid and should've tried with my cheaper guitars, but oh well.
All you really need to adjust the truss rod is the truss rod wrench (should come with your guitar if you bought it new), some sort of feeler gauge, an action ruler - I use it for the precise measures, a Phillips screwdriver & flathead, and an accurate tuner - I use the Polytune 2
If you'd like to learn, I could send some tips & noob advice I learned for myself. It's really easy - I PROMISE.
I have a 5.4l 3v. I have done a little research on them (as I want to know if my engine will grenade).
The 5.4L 3v does have some issues. However if you are diligent and do some preventative maintenance/repair, it can last and is a good motor.
The spark plugs that come from the factory are 2 piece plugs and seize in the head and snap off. When this first started happening this meant getting the head pulled to fix it. Now, you can buy a cheap tool, swap them out with a high end 1 piece and itll never happen again.
Now on to the cam phaser issues. The cams have a cam phasing sprocket. That change the cam lobe timing, giving better efficiency at low end (i think. It would seem to me if you build a car and get to choose which side has the best efficiency, I would do it at high speed).
These engines are notorious for these failing and costing big money. However there is a cheap kit you can get before hand, to prevent the problem.
Here is a video of the 5.4l 3v spark plug "hot extraction method". The motor is brought up to temperature, then shut down and the plugs are changed hot. Ontop of that, you use a 3/8 impact gun and they come out fine.
TL;DR this motor has quite the reputation but dont let it dissuade you if its a nice truck and you can turn a wrench and buy a 40$ torque wrench.
Here's the tool you'll need and here's the plugs I used for my 2008 R56. It's super easy to do! Hopefully that will fix your issue.
There's a really cool tool out there that can help you get your carbs dialed in. This is the Color Tune (Amazon link, or do a search for "color tune" or "Gunson Color Tune."). Check You Tube too. There are a lot of videos on this. For example: https://youtu.be/bRfSj47QCio.
It's a spark plug with a transparent window around the electrode. It lets you see the color of the flame in the combustion chamber. You install it like a regular spark plug, run the bike at idle, and adjust the fuel mix to get the right (blue) color flame.
So, this is good for adjusting the fuel mix, if that's what you're after. It won't tell you about carb balance, but for old bikes you get an assistant, have them feel the slides move as you twist the throttle. If they seem like they're moving in tandem, then you're good. Adjust as needed if one starts to slide up before the other. For idle, I do it by ear. You'll also want to check timing with a timing light too. Remember, a carb is part of a system. It's not just the fuel mix.
I've used the Color Tune it on my old '71 BMW that has simple slide carbs (Mikuni) and no vacuum ports.
Sorry for the double up comment, but if you're really interested in a kit, here are each of the tool's they'll give you
Feeler Gauge
Allen Wrench Set (this is actually more comprehensive)
64th inch ruler
Straight Edge (For judging neck relief/bow)
Mini Screwdrivers
String Winder (with wire cutter)
Compare to $60 dollars
$100:(http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Essential_Tool_Kits/Basic_Setup_Kit.html)
This actually seems like a solid deal, but you can get all of these at a hardware store for less and not pay for shipping and wait around for it.
Timing belt is a must because if it breaks, your engine is fucked. Its also the type of thing that I recommend leaving to a professional, though not necessarily a dealership. My Subaru dealership wanted $850 for a timing belt replacement. I went to a local mechanic who was well-regarded and I got it done for half that. Make sures its a Gates belt.
You could probably do all the other stuff yourself with a little help from forums and YouTube videos. I'd definitely replace the coolant because clean coolant is one of the best ways to avoid head gasket problems. Spark plugs are super easy if you take your time (and this thing makes the job even easier). I'd go ahead and replace plug wires too.
Transmission fluid is pretty easy, but don't forget to get an extra quart for the rear differential.
As far as brakes and rotors, you don't really know until you look at them and see.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00267PZUK/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
I have used this exact tool many times. It works very well with minimal effort. Do not get the engine hot for long. 5 min max to allow the aluminum head to expand enough but not the steel plug. Use 1//2 hand tools as well, 3/8 tend to flex. Source- Ford Tech.
Unless you are printing PETG, or the paper you choose is a different thickness, or if it's swolen from humidity.
Paper isn't the best tool, among other things it varies in thickness, a set of feeler gauges (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYGIR4) is a much better tool for this.
But I have completely quit using it. I now print out this link https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187071 and, as it's printing, manually adjust the bed screws until it's printing with uniform squeeze out and the print looks good. This works great for printers without automatic bed leveling like mine.
Here is my advice, buy some new strings and a feeler gauge. Grab an allen wrench, a screw driver, and your tuner. Restring your bass with the new strings. Then watch this video for neck adjustment. It helps to have a capo, if you dont and pen and some rubber bands will do fine. After you watch that video set up your bass neck relief. Then set your intonation. This covers most of what you need to do to get it sounding more accurate. This should help with the fret buzz.
Just buy a set of automotive gap gauges.
They should cost about $5. You want metric gauges that have come a spacing of 0.05mm and include a 0.5mm gap.
I prefer the flat blade style.
BTW these are better then buying a fencing gauge since you can test how good your gap is. I typically fence with points that trigger at 0.35mm.
Remember that the spec on an epee point is that it must not trigger at 0.5mm +/- 0.05mm so you need to actual set your points not to trigger at 0.45mm to be safe.
You may want to invest in the extractor or find one at your local parts supplier. Best of luck!
Shims are useful for spreading the tines and can be used without damaging the nib if careful.
This is a feeler gauge set that I use... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGIR4
It starts at .0015 inch with the next ones being .002, .003, .004 and .005. Working up through those 5 sizes has gotten the job done well.
This set is made from steel, but is well formed and polished which should not damage even softer gold nibs when used carefully.
This will be your best friend.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGIR4
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My bed is leveled to 0.03 mm and I use a BLTouch to make up the remaining difference.
There is a puller made that makes it much easier to remove when they break.
Alternatively, from what I understand, getting heat into the head from running it, then removing the plugs with a 3/8" impact is the best way to actually get the plugs out without them separating.
Get one of these.
Line up all the feelers and clamp it tight. Get a sharp edged file. File grooves into the edges of all of the feelers.
You don't have to go in deep.
Easy peasy and super cheap.
Instead of just a paper to test, I use feeler gauges like these. That with a glass bed has me pretty well set.
I believe the main difference in the 70,000 mile service from the others is the addition of spark plug replacement. Years ago on my former E-class I was able to do this service on my own. It required a special tool found here: spark plug 17mm tool.
The tool makes it much easier to pop the plugs out of the block. I purchased the replacement plugs on Amazon at the time. This service, like most, also includes replacement of various filters (air, fuel, oil change, etc.). If you DIY, you can perform the whole thing for a $200-$400 depending on the parts that you go with.
Another good suggestion I haven't seen here is to make your own penetrating oil. Mix up some acetone and transmission fluid 1:1. In my experiences it works better than PB.
I've heard running Seafoam through the engine can help with spark plugs on aluminum heads.
At the worst case scenario, you'll have to drill them out with a tool like this.
Make sure when you put the new plugs in you don't overtighten them. If you're not using a torque wrench, tighten them finger tight with an extension and then do another quarter turn on a ratchet.
This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.
Same to you, heard the Lisle tool http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK is amazing to use FYI.
I agree, LOVE this body style.
When I first bought the truck a few years ago, used and relatively decently taken care of, I changed the plugs immediately (they were bad..).
One thing is, if you're going to tackle the job yourself:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK
This tool will save you. I broke 3 out of 8 plugs. I ran one piece champions but they ran terribly. So I went back OEM motorcraft plugs and if it comes time to change em again, I am not worried because I have my lisle tool. =]
Changing spark plugs is very easy. All you need is 4 spark plugs, a torque wrench and a 12 point socket. It should take you 10 mins to change all 4. If you go to a shop they will probably charge you >$100.
Here is a tutorial.
There is a tool for this exact issue, Ford in all its brilliance once had a two piece spark plug that would break just like yours, here you go my man Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00SQ4FSN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UV3JDb88PYD11
I bought a couple on Amazon that were real janky — none of the notches lined up properly on any scale length — but this one worked well.
That said, I’ve found that I rarely use it — you’ll get a lot more use out of the little ruler that u/dngvasht recommended and a set of [feeler gauges](OEMTOOLS 25025 26 Blade Master Feeler Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYGIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_HmRgRGboIDhaz).
You might try something like this tool:
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https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK
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I'm not sure that this particular tool is for the exact plugs you use, but thats what I would try and use.
Alternatively, if you can break the threads loose/if its not siezed in place, you may be able to slip a fuel line over the top of the spark plug, and use that to grab the plug and twist it out.
Specifically, it could be an old spark plug tester.
http://www.terapeak.com/worth/vintage-antique-champion-spark-plug-tester-pen-5-1-4-long-made-in-the-usa/111900020421/
You can still buy them. Lisle is a respected brand.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19380-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STS3U
Buy a feeler gauge on Amazon: OEMTOOLS 25025 26 Blade Master Feeler Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYGIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eTKEAbM4H1TJR
They’re $5 and well worth it!
Ask 10 people and you’ll get 11 answers type of deal.
Personally I recommend one of these for setting the idle mixture:
https://www.amazon.com/Colortune-for-14mm-Spark-Plug/dp/B000E9VGNM
Make sure to get the right size for your bike if you decide to go that route.
Yes
And don't forget your Spark Plug Socket
21 ft/lb or 28NM is the torque spec, as well.
Thanks to everyone for your help! I bought all the tools you mentioned (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Drive-Socket-Extension-SHA11106/dp/B07R8JQKGK
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-108-5/dp/B00FMPKAD0
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-Tools-22887-Magnetic-Socket/dp/B00AXTKZ26)
and just replaced the spark plugs. Here is a photo of the old one. It seems it is not that worn, but I have replaced the four anyway.
Check engine light on?
Get a non-contact spark tester. The next time it stalls, hook up the spark tester and observe if you’re getting spark or not.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19380-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STS3U
Did you get a thin walled 18mm for imports? I had to get one for my Versa. Like this one https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0175-Spark-Socket/dp/B009D35UEQ
I got mine for $7 from autozone. It's much thinner than any other deep well socket
Kind of, On my sisters golf which has a 2.0L. I struggled a bit then found youtube video suggested which the guy was using something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52990-Spark-Plug-Pliers/dp/B001PN88NC/ref=pd_sim_469_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31grCupCRWL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0J69XYDJC9Q2D2N72CH9
Which I was able to use a similar idea with the pliers
2004 through 2008 F-150 5.4 liters have the retarded spark plug design, and I usually recommend replacing them every 70k miles, and installing new plugs with anti-seize applied around the electrode/sleeve.
It is possible to remove them without breaking if you perform a fuel Injector flush (special dealership service using jungle juice and a canister to provide you're own fuel pressure) and change then right afterward while the engine is still semi-warm.
However if you are doing it in your driveway without such services, they will likely break and a special tool is needed for removing the remaining piece of spark plug.
Works very well, but you'll want to move some components aside to give yourself some room for the more rearward cylinders:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00267PZUK?pc_redir=1406368882&robot_redir=1
Feeler Gauge much better than using paper to measure nozzle distance.
What engine do you have? On the N55 (and probably the N54) you have to use one something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Caldera-Spark-Socket-12-point-14-millimeters/dp/B015VJESP2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467315705&sr=8-2&keywords=narrow+spark+plug+socket
This will make your life easier: http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-80546-8-Inch-6-Inch-Swivel/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi
You could try some spark plug boot pliers.
Lisle 52990 Spark Plug Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PN88NC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8r7PCbSTEK33G
By feeler gauge do you mean something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4
I'm thinking of learning to make my own picks and I'm looking into materials!
Credit card gauge is good, but high precision requires a spark plug gauge. It will tell you exactly the distance between rollers. I understand commercial breweries target 1-1.2mm and home brewers are in the 1.2-1.4mm range.
Probably with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK
They break so frequently that there are special tools to deal with the issue.
They literally make a special tool just for these spark plugs.
Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3 Valve Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zScYAbZ8CKP2V
Ford actually has a special spark plug removal tool just for the 5.4 engine
Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover for Ford Triton 3 Valve Engines https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W5b.BbD5AXQDM
Does it have any numbers or measurements on it? It almost looks like a very simple Feeler Gauge (for measuring gap widths.)
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4
Turn them about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn then spray carb cleaner down into them. Wait one hour and hopefully they'll come out without breaking.
If they do break you can get an extraction tool off amazon to pull the broken part out.
Edit:Link
This is the 65600 not your 65700, I don't know the difference, but read the first review- you won't be disappointed.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK
Motion Pro 08-0175 18mm Spark Plug Socket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009D35UEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uK9DAbXJZ9RJ0
This may be what you're looking for. Thin wall socket
use the ford spark plug puller tool...http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412615698&sr=8-1&keywords=ford+f150+spark+plug+removal+tool
I been using feeler gauges from amazon. and measuring the distance at .038 MM.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGIR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're uncomfortable with testing the spark plugs when pulled from the cylinder, they make an inline spark tester that can help verify that the sparkplugs is firing.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6
Something like the Lisle Broken Spark Plug Remover for the 3v Ford Tritons?
OEMTOOLS 25025 26 Blade Master Feeler Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYGIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_xYPAxbGC4RDH3
Given what you described, it could also be a feeler gauge, a bunch of thin metal shims of a set thickness stacked together with a pivot point so that you can check the clearance between things.
Buy this tool before you even start a plug change on a ford 5.4
www.amazon.com/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_RPTjub1GBHJJJ
I zero my extruder and move it to the corners. At each corner, I manually adjust the bed until the correct feeler gauge barely fits. Takes less than 5 minutes about once a month.
http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-sae-metric-feeler-gauge-32214.html
http://www.amazon.com/25025-26-Blade-Master-Feeler-Gauge/dp/B000BYGIR4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409135061&sr=8-1&keywords=feeler+gauge
Feeler gauges for measuring the thickness of a gap between two things.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4
Here you go. $6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZVSVK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_K6x-BbPTH7YHS
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Drive-Socket-Extension-SHA11106/dp/B07R8JQKGK
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-108-5/dp/B00FMPKAD0
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-Tools-22887-Magnetic-Socket/dp/B00AXTKZ26
buy this to extract the remaining bits of the plug http://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1450292568&sr=1-1&keywords=lisle+spark+plug+removal+tool
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4
If you have them, and you have the car, you can try putting them on, and check clearance with a feeler gauge set.
Wheels should have dimensions stamped on the inside of the spokes.
I use this feeler gauge, and keep mine set at 0.03"
3 Valve Ford spark plugs.
Here's the tool you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK
Here's how they come out if you're having a bad day (My '07 GT had a bad day - not my picture)
http://s208.photobucket.com/user/jperea27/media/sparkplugs1.jpg.html
Here's how they come out if you're lucky (and then buy a lottery ticket)
http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/Ford_Spark_Plug_Problems.jpg
Uf its a ford thats a common problem, and lisle tool company makes a tool that will extract it in about 10 minutes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00267PZUK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/131-1609502-3614005?ie=UTF8&qid=1519192112&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lisle+ford+spark+plug+removal+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=31EMI4aq53L&ref=plSrch
Thanks! I have already done a ton of research via fordf150.net. I wasn't expecting anything crazy, but something funky caught my eye when doing my research. My truck was built before they caught the bad batch of plugs. I ordered the Lisle removal tool as well in anticipation for it not going well.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_img_y
I did mine already with a replacement 1 piece. Not 1 of them broke. bought the Lisle 5.4l 3v Extractor tool and never needed it. Ty for the heads up. (lent it out because ill never need it again, and my buddy broke 5 and saved a fuckton doing it himself)
Edit: My issue with mine right now is the cam phasers. Im thinking of using the cam phaser lock out kit. cheap vehicle, cheap fixes.
Get one of these: Lisle 19380 Spark Tester https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002STS3U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EUxDCbE5YDC12
I'll bet you have an ignition problem. This is a quick too you can use to see if the spark is making it to the wires. It's always possible that your distributor is broken even though you just installed it.
An extractor tool that has sharp tapered threads which grab the broken piece, and is also threaded on the outside to act as a puller.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK
Please don't use that coin to gap your plugs. Take it back. Buy a proper feeler gauge. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25025-Blade-Master-Feeler/dp/B000BYGIR4
Those things are known ESPECIALLY on our iridium tipped plugs, to damage and crack them. You are still running the risk of damaging them and having your misfire.
They make a $63 tool to pull the broken plugs out (It was only $50 when I bought it).
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-LIS65600-Broken-Remover-Engines/dp/B00267PZUK
I broke 3 and the tool took them out no problem. They have a revised version of the plug. I'm not sure how it holds up. I haven't replaced the new plugs yet.