Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

• A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.
  
  
• A Floor Pump
  
  
• A Metric Hex Set
  
  
• A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)
  
  
• A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed
  
  
• Some Grease
  
  
• Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.
  
  
• A helmet
  
  Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
  
  

  New Bikes
  

  
  

• An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.
  
  
• The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.
  
  
• The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning
  
  
• The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.
  
  
• The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.
  
  

  Used Bikes
  

  
  Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  

The big thing about converting to drops is that they can add a lot of reach to your riding position. The second part of this guide can give you a good rough idea of whether you might need significantly more or less reach than you currently have, which you can adjust a little bit with different stems.

http://www.wikihow.com/Size-a-Road-Bike

Ultimately it's generally a lot of trial and error though. And it seems your bars are already 31.8mm so you might actually be able to use the same stem. At least for now.

I have absolutely no idea how much those origin8 parts would cost you. But you can probably get the bars themselves for less than $40, eg:

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1033658_-1_400213__400213

http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1184245_-1_400213__400213

The main thing is the width, which largely depends on what sort of bike sizing you have and how big you yourself are, but since you're coming from super wide flats you could probably stick to 44cm regardless. The other difference is shape, which is largely personal preference. Doesn't help you much, but depending on what you want to use the bike for a shorter drop might be more comfortable. And at some point you just have to make the call on what looks most comfortable to you.

Your disc brakes are linear pull, which means it probably wouldn't be a good idea to use normal road levers with them. Tektro do a set of linear pull road levers which would probably be the simplest solution:

http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=10&sortname=Lever&sort=1&fid=3

Pretty cheap too. Shifting is a little more awkward, as your thumb shifter will probably have a diameter of 22.2mm and modern road bars are generally 23.8mm. But that shifting position itself is generally pretty awkward, yes. Your hand has to move quite the distance from the hoods or the drops to get there, around the bars themselves and often requiring you to change position. Short of using a road lever with a cable pull adjuster or something, which can get quite complicated and isn't generally the best, the best option is probably a bar end shifter. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/SUNRACE-SHIFTER-HB-BAREND-SLR96/dp/B00JVK5ZLY/

So all in all that'd be around $40 bars, $25 for the levers, $35 for the shifter, $10-15 for some bar tape and maybe $15 for a new set of cables;

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Cable-Housing-Universal/dp/B0050LUBZ8/

Basically something like that plus a new bit of gear cable outer, to cover the distance from the shifter to the first boss on the frame. Probably cheapest and simplest just to get something like that from an LBS. But all in all that'd be around $125-130, if you're lucky and it's comfortable as is. If you need a stem with a different length or angle, probably closer to $150. If you do the work yourself. But for that you could end up with quite a nice gravel/adventure type bike which could turn its hand to endurance road riding, cross riding or touring/commuting quite nicely.

Alternatively you could just get some bar ends, which can help even if your arms are quite spread out. But if you want to get into longer distance riding, you might feel the need to upgrade again before long. Bullhorns can be nice, but often have a lot of the same problems with different diameters, and you still can't brake from that position unless you had TT style levers which I don't think you can get in linear pull. And they'd still need bar tape and such. You can do the research yourself, I just think it'd be a large portion of the investment in an attempt to mimic the riding position of a road bike anyway.

Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.

So parts list of stuff to buy

Cassette:

https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-Nickel-Plated-Cassette/dp/B00DI65HGU

Chain:

https://www.amazon.com/X8-99-Bicycle-Chain-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B0013BV540

You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour

Tires:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Crossmark-Black-Fold-Tires/dp/B00GHTQ7Q4?th=1&psc=1 (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)

Shifters:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SL-M360-Acera-Shifter-Speed/dp/B001ON6VIW

(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)

Brake pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)

New cables:

https://www.amazon.com/JAGWIRE-MOUNTAIN-SHOP-KIT-Derailleur/dp/B01DJGUEE8

You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.

Tools:

You could get a tool kit like one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrelli-Bike-Multi-Tool-V19/dp/B06XGWMGB9

And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Freewheel-Sprocket-Lockring-Maintenance/dp/B07GSRJGP3

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-1847-Bicycle-Tire-Levers/dp/B000UAQL6C

That might be the way to go.

That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.

Apologies for using amazon.com links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from

i know you said you were going to take it to the shop. if you do, buy the SRAM Team GXP BB.

this job requires only 1 specialized tool however, and if you have any inclination to do it yourself it's one of the simpler things you can do at home.

ingredients:

1. buy this $30 sram gxp bb
   
   
2. find/borrow/buy one of these, make sure it's shimano/sram compatible. just a thought: you might be able to use a jar opener--the ratching strap kind, not the plastic OXO kind--but i wouldn't count on it.
   
   
3. grease. i like park's poly lube, but others swear by park's anti-seize compound for bb threads
   
   
4. 8mm hex wrench with at least 6" length for leverage, the more the better
   
   
5. rags
   
   
6. rubbing alcohol
   
   directions:
   
   
7. for greatest convenience, maybe remove the chain or tape/ziptie it up on the seat tube where it's out of the way of the crank.
   
   
8. remove the rival crank from the non-drive side with 8mm wrench. lefty-loosey. it might be tight. don't overdo it though, loosen in a controlled fashion so you don't overcompensate then swing your knuckles into the chainring teeth. i've done that, it hurts and leaves scars.
   
   
9. sometimes it's hard to get a purchase on the crank arm and generate the leverage to loosen the bolt. i like to insert the hex wrench so its in the 4 o'clock position relative to the crank arm, which is in the 6 o'clock. then i grab the crank arm with my left hand, for leverage to loosen the bolt with my right hand. conversely, you can flip the clock positions, grip the crank arm and the hex wrench with one hand, and tighten your grip to loosen the bolt. if you do it that way, watch your fingertips so they don't get squashed between the hex wrench and the crank arm.
   
   
10. it's a self-extracting bolt, so as you loosen, the crank arm will separate from the crank spindle. once the NDS arm is off, pull the spindle out by the drive-side. clean and set aside.
    
    
11. remove the old bb bearing cups with the bb wrench. note that on the drive side, it's righty-loosey. non-drive side is normal. clean the threads in the BB with rubbing alcohol and rag. you want to get any grit out of the threads to installing the new cups goes smoothly and you can get a proper fit.
    
    
12. coat the threads of the new bb bearing cups with grease and/or anti-seize compound. you should also apply some grease to the threads in the bb itself. install the cups with the plastic dust shield, noting to install the correct cup on the correct side, and being sure to thread them in properly.
    
    
13. remember, drive side is reverse-threaded. lefty-tighty. screw them in by hand, then tighten with the bb wrench. firm pressure, but not brute forcing it.
    
    
14. clean and grease the crank spindle along the polished bands that interface with the interior races of the new bb bearings. insert the crank through drive side. on GXP BBs, the spindle on the drive side is fatter than the spindle on the non drive side, so even if you're slow, you'll figure it out. slide it in, give it a few whacks with your palm to make sure it's seated all the way in. you may want to clean and re-grease the splines on the non-drive side end of the crank spindle.
    
    
15. line up the NDS crank arm along the splines, tighten the 8mm bolt. tighten until the bolt pulls the crankarm flush with the bearing cup, then a wee bit more. you may have to put a little elbow grease into it, but not enough to hurt yourself, no bulging vein on your forehead. you can use the 6 oclock 4 oclock trick again to tighten it properly. tight enough is leaving a firm imprint of the hex wrench in your palm, maybe a little bit red.
    
    
16. re-install chain, get on your bike and ride.
    
    

If you know the shop guys, they might do it for free if you bring 'em a six pack. If you buy the brake from a shop, they might install it for you.

Honestly, though, installing brakes is pretty simple - you remove the bolt and washer, slide the pin in through the hole in the fork, and then put the washer and bolt back on. Tighten it down. The rest of it's just getting the cable tension and pad placement right, which you'll need to deal with on your own some day anyway.

The lever, on the other hand, depends on what sort you're going with. There are basically three options (I'm linking Amazon, but that's just because it was easy for me to search; you may find better deals than what I'm linking to, I just want to be clear about the sorts of levers I'm talking about - and furthermore, the ones I link might not even match the bar diameter for the bike in question):

• Bar-end levers pretty much only work on bullhorns. I believe that some will work fine with chop'n'flop bars and some will not.
  
  
• Road levers will look a bit goofy mounted on bullhorns, but will totally work.
  
  
• Mountain-style levers - be careful that you're picking up some that will fit road bars, and be careful that they have the right amount of "pull" (this will be dependent on the set of brakes that you have).
  
  If the bike comes with a brake, I'd try mounting that on the front first; if it works, you've saved yourself some money, and if it doesn't, you may gain some knowledge about what in particular you need (possibly, for example, you can get by with just getting a different center pin).

The brakes are probably pre bled. You will probably have to cut the cables to proper length though. If you are careful it can be done without needing a bleed, but its a good idea to have a bleed kit. If you ride often, you will probably want to bleed every 3 to 6 months anyways.

Also, you will want some good grease. This park tools stuff is good and can be used for headset and bb.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PPL-1-Polylube-Grease/dp/B000NORVHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466124475&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tools+grease

Bleed kit like this would get you started if you have Shimano brakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Bleed-Kit-Mineral/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466124626&sr=8-2&keywords=shimano+bleed+kit

Edit: also, I noticed your comment below about making a headset press from a threaded rod and some washers. I do this. Used it to press in a couple headsets, and a press fit bottom bracket. Worked great and costs like $10.

I've had the bike for a few weeks now and use it almost entirely for commuting. Here's what I've added since I got the bike:

• GoPro Hero3 Black
  
  
• NiteRider Lumina Micro 350 front and rear
  
  
• Nite Ize HandleBand
  
  
• Tektro CR720 Canti Brakes
  
  
• Ibera PakRak Bicycle Touring Carrier Plus+
  
  
• Avenir Excursion Rack-Top Bag
  
  
• SKS P45 Black Chromoplastic Longboard
  
  
• SRAM Supercork Bicycle Bar Tape (Black)
  
  
• Shimano Brake Cable and Housing Set
  
  
• Shimano Road Shift Cable and Housing Set
  
  The stock brakes weren't doing enough to stop me so I swapped them out for some Tektro CR720s. I dropped the yoke as far as I could to give myself as much leverage as possible. Braking is much better now and more reliable than the original set ever was.
  
  I added a rack and trunk bag that's big enough to hold my food and clothes for the day. The only modification I had to make here was filing away some metal from rack mounting leg. It was colliding with frame near the dropout and not allowing the leg to sit close enough to the braze on.
  
  Some of the original cable housings that came with the bike had some gouges in them so Nashbar sent me a new replacement cable set. I swapped out all the brake/shift cables and replaced the bar tape with some SRAM cork tape. The original cables from Nashbar were also a bit too long and were causing excessive friction.
  
  I added some SKS fenders per the recommendations of users on this sub. They were a little finicky to install but I got them on in the end. This particular frame doesn't have bolt holes in either of the two rear bridges so I had to resort to the classic zip tie approach.
  
  As far as the bike goes, it's been performing flawlessly so far. It weighs close to 30 lbs now so it's not the lightest thing in the world. However, the steel frame and the large tires really help smooth out the road quite a bit. The saddle is still the most uncomfortable part of the bike, but I'm hoping to swap it out sometime in the near future. Shifting is still very smooth and the 4 trim positions on the 105 front derailleur is a great feature.
  
  If you're considering getting a bike from Nashbar, I'd definitely recommend them. Their customer service was fantastic and everything they shipped usually got to me door in 2-3 days (even the bike!).

There are several hubs out there.

Shimano:

• 3-speed (186% range)
  
• 7-speed (244% range)
  
• 8-speed (307% range)
  
  • And this weird disc + coaster brake version (SG-C6061-8CD) which might give you the best of both worlds. It also has Di2 automatic shifting which some people prefer. Price is okay @ €150 however when combined with the rest of the DI2 setup it's probably expensive.
    
    Sturmey Archer:
    
    
• 2-speed (138% range)
  
  • Kick shift, so you don't need cables to switch gears. Takes some getting used to.
    
• 3-speed (177% range)
  
• 5-speed (243% range)
  
  As for levers, depending on what kind of brakes you are using, you could also look at using 4-fingers levers, designed for drum brakes. It's how early mountain bikers gave themselves extra leverage. Another option might be Sunlite dual brake levers which enable you to control 2 brakes with a single hand. Though that might be unwise in your case.
  
  ​
  
  Bike suggestions:
  
  
• Vintage bike: An affordable option would be to look into classic 3-speed bikes (brands and models depends heavily on where you are located) and have a bike shop rebuild a wheel with one of the above hubs. A classic Dutch bike would fit the bill too. One advantage of these bikes is that they are often setup quite well already for commuting and have a more relaxed geometry which makes for a more forgiving or relaxed ride.
  
• Hardwearing commuter: Around here we have this bike-leasing company and a friend of mine just got this bike. 7-speed coaster brake, dynamo hub and roller brake on the front. Very practical bike all around!
  
• Stylish commuter: Veloretti makes bikes with just a coaster brake (which works fine in the Netherlands) and has some decent customization options. Front brake optional.
  
  These were just some suggestions as an example, not an endorsement of any of these. Though from what I've seen they are all high quality bikes.

You're in the same boat as me! Kinda.. I ride a 2003 Giant NRS3, my first ever bike and likely the only bike I'll own for quite a while.

Granted it's a full suspension, not a hard tail, but from what I've found, it's pretty hard to do little upgrades to such old frames. When I wanted to replace the fork, RockShox only had two new offerings with rim brake compatibility, otherwise I would've had to buy disc compatible hubs which would've been much more expensive. There wasn't much selection left for rear shocks either, and most tire manufacturers have moved their best stuff away from 26" wheels.

Basically, with these older bikes, there really isn't much choice left in terms of making them nearly as competitive as modern bikes.

I've bought wider bars, a shorter stem, new grips, new pedals, new tires, and new brake pads, and that's just about the most you'd be able to do with most of these old frames in terms of changing your riding experience.

If you're looking for better brakes though, these have worked great for me. Converting to discs was way out of my budget, and these are much more powerful than standard pads.

If you're looking for better brakes but can't go with discs, there's large contact patch soft compound ones you can get.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KJD7XL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These have a 25% larger contact patch, and they're softer than most stock brakes. They'll grip the rim much harder.

These are also pretty good albiet more expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_9?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1536557364

BTW you only need these for the front, because when the front gets more stopping power, its super easy to lock up the rear wheel.

The brakes I have are like the ones on regular bmx/mountain bikes. I'm not looking to change those but,

This is the bar I'm buying:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MMOI6O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A1J160NEEMK233

I would like these brakes and have it look like this:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_V4w18ZWaPas/SfzzbZt3eoI/AAAAAAAAEtI/QeUuDAJQWQU/s400/Bicycle-Brake-Levers-05.jpg

I was looking at these levers:
http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=pd_luc_top_sim_02_04_t_lh

But I am entirely not sure on what I need to make it happen, are their special housings I need to buy? or better brake levers out there? Anything info would help out a lot.

I am riding just a single speed track bike with size 25.4cm handlebars if that helps.

>I have one glaring question. How bad are these center pull brakes?

​

Those are cantilever brakes. Similar, but diffferent.

If they are perfectly adjusted and properly setup then they are fine. But they are finicky and complicated with lots of variables and parts.

>I've been riding for about 9 years regularly and in my experience they are fine, just standard bike brakes. But, turns out I don't know everything. I didn't know if they are somehow substatially worse than modern rim brakes.

They can have really really good performance, but it's not likely they get setup properly. The only really really really bad thing about them is if the brake cable from the 'V' to the brake levers break then that 'V' can fall down and get caught on knobby tires, which can catapult a rider over the handle bars. This is why it's important on these style of brakes to keep the reflectors or use a fender.. this way something is in the way to catch a failed brake cable.

------------

Shimano-style V-brakes, also known as Linear pull brakes use the same studs and are a cheap swap-in upgrade. You need to swap out the levers to match as well. Much easier to setup, much easier to maintain. Since there are much less variables to consider then it's a lot easier to keep them working at peak performance. Theoretically cantilever brakes can be setup to brake harder, but they are still pretty dumb.

Old cantilever/center pull brakes would get swapped out immediately on any bike I own.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMyVtWzeuBA

You can find everything you need on Amazon. Tektro and Shimano are the desirable brands to look at for these types of brakes. Front and rear + brake levers + brake cables should come out to 50-70 dollars.

For the brake pads a nice upgrade over stock ones are https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

You're welcome. Remove that cable but save it so you can use for measurements. You CAN ride the bike without it but it will be in low (3rd) gear.

Shifting on these goes like this...

1 (1st) is high gear and is the easiest. When used the cable pulls that indicator chain all the way out.

2 (2nd) is normal as if riding a single speed bike. The cable pulls the indicator about halfway.

3 (3rd) is low gear and the hardest to pedal in. Cable doesn't pull at all. Takes a bit more muscle to pedal but you can go really fast.

Once you replace that cable you'll have a nice bike to ride. They are ridiculously easy to maintain once you get the hang of it.

Also, your wheels probably have chrome/steel rims. You will want to replace the brake pads with Kool-Stop Continentals. Get the SALMON (orange) colored ones here. These are the best brake pads for these old wheels. Salmon color only though!

I ran into the same problem. I tried the Dia Compe Aero hoods on my Dia Compe levers and they did not fit to my satisfaction. Honestly, you would be better off picking up a set of Shimano BL-R400 levers. Really nice and comfortable and should provide you with a nice boost in braking performance.

Edit:

Levers on amazon for cheaper

These might be worth trying if those are Shimano 600 levers

Truth is that you can replace almost any component on a bike, they are relatively simple machines. With the right tools disassembling a bike is pretty straightforward. The issue is how much money would an upgrade cost vs the difference you notice.

On this level of bike I would primarily optimize for comfort. The saddle and grips should be comfortable for you for whatever type of riding you prefer. The tire size and tread should match the terrain you ride. For example knobby mountain tires will be noisy and inefficient for street riding, high pressure road tires would be uncomfortable on rough terrain.

For a commuter bike you'll want to accessorize. Get a rack to carry your bag, get lights for night riding, get fenders if it rains a lot where you live.

Performance wise the only thing I would change on a bike like the 7.1FX is the brake pads. At least with my hybrid the pads were miserable, especially in wet weather. They would gather aluminum dust in little holes and scratch my rim. I got these: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Threaded-Salmon/dp/B000BMT2GU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411934931&sr=8-1&keywords=kool+stop+salmon brakes and I never had to worry about cleaning out the pads again.

If you end up doing a lot of biking (like 500-1000 miles a year), you may want to consider clipless pedals and shoes. This is a pretty common upgrade that makes your pedaling more efficient and will transfer to any newer bike.

There are maintenance items that you will likely have to replace or repair based on wear such as chains (1000 miles, or have wear measured by a chain tool), rear cassettes (should be after like 4-6000 miles if you replaced your chains on time, wheels (whenever spokes start popping and it can't be trued anymore), crankset/chainrings (probably unlikely, but maybe after 10k miles?).

I like to upgrade as things break, replace it with a higher quality component. I feel like this makes more sense financially than repairing something that already functions well.

yeah, exactly what u/stewmeatsundays has said, watch vids and rewrap the bars.
I personally like the Arundel cork bar tape.
Also, for older braking applications, I would recommend better brake pads like the Kool Stop Conti and you will also need a 4th hand cable puller, like this IceToolz unit.
The alternative would be to fit some long-reach modern dual pivot calipers like these Tektro r559 which come in nutted fitment to suit your frame.


nice looking bike btw, I love a Shogun. Had a Samurai until a few mths ago when it had an argument with some idiot in a Camry...Samurai lost

Adding to the point about upgrading the brakes, I bought a bike two years ago with very similar brakes (Fuji Sportif) and even upgrading the brake pads to these made a huge difference in stopping power over the stock pads. Plus the ability to swap just the pads instead of the brakes is great in the long run. Like zmjones said if you're just using it for fitness it's a perfectly nice bike and Claris is a solid groupset.

Kool stop dual compound brake pads

OR

Kool stop salmon brake pads

You need the right pads for all weather conditions if you are riding in the rain. Especially heavy rain.

Regular black brake pads are truly for DRY conditions only.

Dual compound is for both. Salmon is for mostly wet.

Give a pair of these a try and not only will you have the best and strongest rim braking you've ever had, you'll have the best all-weather performance there is for rim brakes. It is absolutely worth the money and one of the best bike upgrades you can do for a rim-brake bicycle.

Make sure to toe in brakes to avoid squeaking and you're golden.

If this is for a commuter bike and rain happens here and there, this is a necessity for safety, not a luxury. The right brakes are just as necessary as a helmet.

3 out of my 4 bikes have rim brakes and these are the only pads I use or recommend. Getting the toe in correct for squeaking is a thing, but other than that they are the best brakes out there for rims. Hands down. Especially for rain and snow.

So... I had the same pads most likely on the R670... and they're just not great pads. What they really lacked was modulation, plus they built up crap in them constantly.

• I am using swissstop pads now, but only because I have carbon wheels. They are still good, but I've heard awesome things about shimano's pads on normal wheels. Plus, they're cheap.
  
  
• Pads are pads so far as fit, but yours are probably all-in-one instead of having separate pads/shoes like shimano equipment. So you'll need to buy the whole assembly. I got these, but you can get the 105 version for a bit less as well.

Just so you know those shifters are pretty sought-after and go for decent money on eBay. They work awesome, keep them, but when you move on from this bke you can probably get your $60 back pretty easily.

That said, your easiset upgrade is to change the brake calipers. Some good reliable brakes are the Tektro ones here, but then you're doubling the cost of the bike. If you have a bike co-op in your town go see if you can get a decent used set.

Whatever else you do, change the brake pads. These are ultra cheap and formulated to work with steel rims. You can check with a magnet if your rims are steel.

Needs to be stripped down and de-scaled/de-rusted as much as possible. Chain removed and probably dropped in bin.
Fine grade steel wool or scotch-brite pads and kerosene can do a lot, and soaking components in Apple Cider vinegar works nicely as well, unless you have access to an Ultrasonic cleaner which is a better option. If you're going to stick with the original wheels, which look like 27s (630mm) then you're stuck with threaded freewheels. The Shimano 7sp HG freewheel is as far as you'll be able to go without either lacing a new hub into the rear wheel or buying a new wheelset in 700c. I'd refurbish the BB and Headset with new bearings, fit cables all over, throw a new freewheel on there and some Tektro r559 nutted mount brake calipers on there, some new Panaracer Pasela 27" tyres on there, job done. Oh, and lose the quill stem extender.

Depends what you're used to riding and where you can store it.

If you can't store it inside, you'll need a 'beater,' meaning a bike that doesn't look appealing to thieves. For most people, the best deal is going to be a 90s "mountain" bike (something like this), which is essentially comparable to a hybrid, but with 26" wheels. It's a slower-riding bike, but with the advantage of better brakes, a more upright riding position, and thicker tires for fewer flats.

If you're used to riding faster road bikes, I'd get an 80s/90s road bike (something like this), and add cross-style brakes to it (i.e., a 2nd set of brake levers on the tops of the handlebars that let you brake while riding upright in traffic).

If you can lock your bike up indoors and/or want a faster bike, a newer hybrid or road bike is fine.

One thing I'd really recommend is to hit up ebay for some better brake handles, as those dia-compe handles don't work particularly well. My old Shogun had those same handles someone had put on it, and braking was terrible.

I found some Shimano 600 brake levers for $20 (was a score actually). It brakes as well as my modern bike with those handles. Here's a pair for $30

Also, with standard old brake handles you can get some Cane Creek brake hoods off Amazon for cheap. Also, these grey brake pads work really well on the older brakes.

Other than that, tune it up and ride on! Looks like a great bike.

General rule of thumb for 10-speed or fewer for Shimano: the number of sprockets in the cassette should match the number of speeds for the shifters, and the rear-derailleur should be Shimano compatible (which basically means the amount of cable pulled per mm of movement remains the same). A MTB derailleur allows for wider gearing in the back (bigger sprockets), but is otherwise being pulled the same amount by the shifters (same number of sprockets).

It's never a bad idea to spend a little extra on brakes, but I actually have had great luck with Sunlite cantilever brakes as long as a) you set it up correctly and b) use a different, higher quality set of brake pads.

They can of course be found cheaper elsewhere, just be careful the nutted thing. http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-R559-Calipers-Silver-55-73mm/dp/B006Z0OVWC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422652766&sr=8-1&keywords=r559 If you're buying /new/ brakes I can't in good conscience recommend a cheaper product or I would, these are about as good as it gets on a budget for new brakes on old bikes. If you need cheaper, I would try and search eBay for older dual-pivot calipers and see if they have the long reach arms like these, or short reach like moderns ones (will be immediately apparent looking at pictures). But, that's me. Some good old centerpulls do exist, I just can't say I've ever been a fan of adjusting them compared to the dual-pivots.

I don't think that's a 28" wheel. check again, old bikes are 27", new ones are 700mm, mountain bikes are 26" or 29".

Tires: Paselas used to be cheap and good 27" replacements at $15 each but the prices have gone up. CST brand on amazon are cheap chinese ones. Bell has these kevlar lined for $15

https://www.amazon.com/C638-Wall-Wire-Bike-Black/dp/B0037N32QQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485405078&sr=1-7&keywords=27%22+tire

add 2x 27" tubes (700cc ~28-32mm tubes might work) for $4

Diacomp brakes: $6.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ2S8/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item

brake and gear cables and housing: $6

https://www.amazon.com/PITCREW-500-Cable-Change-Kit/dp/B002GCALOU/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485405425&sr=1-1&keywords=bell+brake+cables

Bottom brackets needs sweat equity, repacking with grease and wash out the crap.

So you're looking at $50 in materials and about 2 hours of time. I've done this on an old 27" bike and still had stem shifting, man when you get the opportunity finding a decent STI shifting bike on craigslist for $200-300 would be a great value to keep your eyes on.

Don't upgrade anything more on this. god help you if it's a french bike with french threading.

The things that make the most sense to upgrade first are the cheap ones that move to a new bike the easiest:

• Saddle - the more you're standing while riding, the less important this will be. These are a cheap option to increase comfort while sitting:
  https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CVY5ZXS/
  
  
• Pedals - these are nice flats for the money:
  https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PD9Y5D6/
  
  
• Grips - I'm a fan of Ergon grips, but lots of options out there for under $25 that are better than stock
  
  
  Things that won't move with you that may make sense to look at:
  
  
• Brake pads - Kool stop pads like these are usually considered some of the better rim brake pads out there:
  https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ0Q2/
  
  Tires - you're likely to find something with a little more aggressive tread than what you have for $20 / tire on clearance.

Nice! I bought a Le Tour III for $50 and sold it for $100.

The absolute best upgrade you can do: Aero brake levers (Tektro R100 is what I got). You can route the cables under the bar tape. Makes it look and feel MUCH better.

I really miss my Le Tour. Have fun with yours!

You'll want a shorter stem, but probably one with as much height. Tektro RL-340 (RL341 if you aren't a fucking 6ft+ giant), Shimano BL-R400, Cane Creek SCR-5 Brake Lever.

The stem you choose not only has to fit the clamping diameter of the bars you choose, it must also be the right length and rise to fit your bars.

It's probably easier to pick out a set of drop bars and buy the appropriate stem. Bars require a certain clamp diameter on the stem, so buy the bar first, then find the stem that's the right length with the right clamp diameter. Bars have different inherent reach, so you need to include that reach in your calculation of total reach (frame + stem + bar) before you can buy a stem.

Nobody can tell you every component to buy to make your bike do what you want. There are too many variables.

I have a 73 Continental which is almost identical. Love that bike. Lots of cheap parts available for it and it's built like a tank (of course that means it's heavy as shit). Nice wide tires so it can go anywhere.

You'll want a new saddle and some new pedals at least. If the rest is in good shape I say leave it.

These should be the brake pads you need.

www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJZ2S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3a5qybTMGFV9C

I run kool stop dual compound brake pads on my Bianchi (Ambrosio Elite steel rims). It took a bit of modification, but these work great and are significantly better than the old pads. Works fine in the rain. http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E

Spend a few bucks and buy a set of decent pads like Shimano. I run a DP18 up front i grabbed from CL and it did not have a machined braking surface. I purposely burned through an old set of pads to break thru the clearcoat and paint to hit metal. If you have the NMSW rim then you go thru that first set of pads pretty quick. Now they are smooth, quiet, and with Shimano pads brake great. Just make sure with dual pivot pads you have them adjusted properly to the rim.

Edit: Changed the link to a set of pads.

Suicide levers are the extensions that let you brake from other places besides the hoods or drops. There is a possibility of the levers impeding you from applying the brakes fully if something isn't adjusted correctly, but really they just look tacky. Aero levers allow you to hide the brake cables underneath the bar tape for a nicer look, while also reducing wind drag (hence the "aero"). Aero levers also give a bit more mechanical advantage and make the hood position more comfortable. It really is just personal preference but it has it's advantages. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AO5GVE (You would need to buy the rubber hoods for these)

A guy on our local forum lost a couple fingers on one hand, so he went to a lever that pulls both the front and rear mechanical brakes using a lever like this. I guess it works out pretty well for him and is better than the option of only having one brake.

The thread on it can be found here: brake levers for a cripple?

>Are they easy to fit?

Here's all you need to know!

They are fairly easy to install. You'll need a pair of cable cutters to snip the housing. Worth the investment to pick up a decent pair of bicycle cable cutters, as cables are a wear item, and a service you can easily learn to do yourself.

I second the suggestion for cr-720s. decent stopping power for the price, great mud clearance, easy set up. I've had them on the nature boy i've raced for the past 3 years. And yes, change the pads. I use the Salmon Kool Stop pads and they work very well.

Depends on how long your daily ride is. For me, I just go with my leather coat and an extra layer, nice windproof gloves (windproof and waterproof is a huge plus) and some nice toasty (wool, stays warm even when wet) socks with an extra pair for when I get where I'm going. Helmet with a toque and my snowboard goggles on extra cold/windy/snowy days.

As for the bike, I ran continental gatorskins for the past 2 years with minimal problems. Just make sure to not go too fast into a turn and always keep an emergency line open. There are, of course, winter specialized/spiked tires that would give you more grip but I guess it depends on choice.

Important note: brakes. The normal compound you use for regular spring/summer/fall riding won't work. It freezes and loses all grip. Invest the $30 in a the winter specialized pad packs (these are the ones I used and found a huge improvement over the stock shimano pads in cold weather, but any cold-weather specific pads should work well) and actually retain stopping power when it gets cold, makes a huge difference.

Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:

• Tires: Get the biggest tire that'll fit.
  
• Brake Pads: This bike looks like it's been sitting. The rubber in the pads is toast. Get some Kool Stops
  
• Chain: Never trust an old one. KMC makes solid stuff.
  

This is the #1 thing I am considering doing. However, the tektro set for $20 is apparently too large to fit on my handlebar? So I am considering this one, http://amzn.com/B000BMRPTQ , since it seem to fit better based on the review.

Just have to find some way to free up enough $$$ to pay for it. (hate being on a shoestring budget, sigh...)

Ah! Yes. Then you need brake pads for v brakes, linear pull brakes.

Kool-Stop Dual Compound Mountain Pads for Linear Pull Brakes Threaded,Black/Salmon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XFsKDb119BBTN

Anything like this. Personally, i like the pads that have removable inserts. They arent that much more and replacing shoes are a lot easier since you dont have to muck with positioning.

Kool Stop Bicycle V-Type Holder with Brake Pads (Dual Compound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T35RSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHsKDbR6NBC2N

Velo orange make a set. Clarks. Avid. Really any brand has a decent product like this.

I have mine on the ends, as I spend the most time in that position and I live in a sort of hilly place that requires a bit of braking.

Aesthetically, placing them next to the stem is the best way to go, plus it's a little easier to mount and feed the cable through.

If you do decide to mount the levers on the ends, I reccommend the Cane Creek 200TT levers. Be warned however, they use mountainbike "barrel style" brake cables.

Happy riding!

>Brakes didn't do anything in the rain...

Get used to it haha. But seriously, cantilever's are known to be bad and worse when wet. I would recommend salmon kool-stop pads but that will only get you a bit better stopping. Look into mini v brakes for more stopping power.

The tire's look like tufo brand? The color shouldn't mean anything if that's the case. If you're commuting/pleasure riding/training you should be on clinchers (standard tires/not tubulars as it sounds like that's what you have) and have a tube/patch/tire lever/frame pump. I rode with just tubulars for a year or so, but I'm wiser now.

I have Shimanos, but I think the process is similar the fluid is just different. Here's the kit I bought:

Shimano Brake Bleed Kit with Mineral Oil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DIJUBb8V4W6FG

Having the syringe was super helpful and I'm not sure that was included with the factory kit

So I recently lost one of my brake pads. I have these brakes and planning on buying these replacements. Can anyone advise if these brakes are the right ones? They look like they fit, but I know there are other types of brakes like v-brakes and disc brakes that I don't know too much about. Thanks!

I actually commute on a 1985 Schwinn Mesa Runner with a front hub conversion. As long as your brakes are adjusted correctly (I would also recommend getting new pads), they should be perfectly safe with an ebike kit. Test your stopping distance in both wet and dry conditions before a serious ride.

Thanks for the reply.

The pads are hardened so I'll replace those. One of the levers is cracked and I feel like I have to use a lot of force to engage the brakes with the levers. They also have suicide levers on them so I would really like to at least replace the levers. Would the excessive squeezing be a problem with the levers or the cables? Anyway, levers like these or these would be what I'm looking for, correct?

Thanks for identifying the shifters. I'll probably go with bar-ends. When looking for a pair should I specifically be looking for 5-speed shifters?

You could try a harder pad, but often that results in less friction or more force required at the lever to get the same braking performance. Kool-stop used to make great rim brake pads and appear to still make them. Might be worth a try.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014BRW6E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_hnEYDbJ9WSXJP


They are about twice the cost initially but once pad replacement is required, the insert is about the same price at the pads you currently use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJVA9S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4pEYDb6FBC54S

If you decide to try these or any other pad, verify fitment. It's been years since I've worked on a road bike and don't know if compatibility is what I remember. They visually look the same as far as mounting goes.

I got these cool stop brakes for my ebike and they are wonderful. I'm a heavier guy (~90kg), and with all the parts of my ebike, the bike probably weighs like another 20kg. I've carried another 10-15kg when I go grocery shopping.

I've only got them on the rear, but they work like 200x better than the shitty front brake pads. I highly recommend them. I've had mine for nearly 200km and they could some adjusting, but I don't think that they need to be replaced until ~500km.

You have cantilever brakes and the squealing could be caused by a few things. However, I would really recommend getting that brake cable replaced as well. Judging from the photo it looks like it's either rusted or really worn out or there's some corrosion going on there. Either way I would inspect the cable to see if you need to have it replaced.

Since you're new to biking I would recommend having a shop install the pads for you + check the cabling. Cantilevers are extremely fussy if you don't have them dialed in right. Maybe ask to watch them do it so you can see how it's done for next time. Something like these will work with your setup:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Eagle-Cantilever-Bicycle/dp/B001SYR4HO?th=1

Brooks is the best, and expensive.

If you are on budget, for the saddle, Charge Spoon. Very comfortable.

Handlebar's aren't very expensive. VO Milano is $25.

Brake pads - you will need it, and makes the rider safer.Here is the link.

Fenders - VO alloy

Very clever, I like this idea a lot. I would also consider adding some sort of clip that could act like a parking brake.

As for the uneven braking, you could try a brake cable splitter or a dual cable brake lever so you only need one lever to operate both calipers.

I hear kool stops are pretty awesome. I know Comrades sells them and Amazon has them listed for roughly the same cost as those first ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

Check to make sure the brake pad hasn't hardened or has a piece of metal stuck in it and is scratching the rim. I got a 2014 Trek 1.2 in May and I noticed a scratching sound on the back brake during the first ride. I took off the brake pad and it was clean. When handling the brake pad it felt like it was a rock. I checked the other 3 pads and they felt softer, like regular rubber.

When reading reviews about this bike before I bought it. A common thing was the bad brake pads. I decided to upgrade the brake pads. I got some Shimano br-6700 cartridge pads and they are amazing.

Just search "v-brake brake pads" on amazon and most of those should work. I use this for my front brake because it doesn't squeak but it isn't that powerful. If you don't have a front wheel that squeals like mine then get these really powerful ones.

These are my go-to pads. I had a hybrid commuter for 3 or so years (Marin Muirwoods). Didn't have a computer, so I don't know how many miles they lasted, but I would get around 9 months of commuting out of a set before they needed to be replaced. They held up pretty well in the snow and ice, too.

Those are steel rims, so in theory can be hammered out, with the tires removed, but I've never done it myself... Steel rims dent easily, as you've discovered, and they also don't stop well when wet. It's important to keep tire pressure up to the maximum rated on the sidewall to reduce chance of denting.

You could get a new set of wheels, though that bike might not be worth the investment.

As for pads, I'd recommend Koolstop salmon Continentals---

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Continental-Salmon/dp/B001SYM690/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373582725&sr=1-1&keywords=kool+stop+continental

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

Thinking about it... Might be a good way to get into maintaining it myself. Is this bracket right for me?

http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Bottom-Bracket-Team-English/dp/B003L9EIZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1342199131&sr=1-1&keywords=truvativ+road+gxp+bottom+bracket

I'm having a hard time parsing the description... "It's compatible with all SRAM road and Truvativ mountain cranksets." I have a Truvativ road crankset, is it still compatible? Based on some comments, it looks like i should ignore manufacturers instructions and not use any spacers. Also, it looks like I'll need a tool to tighten the bracket from the outside. I've seen a few youtube videos that use torque wrenches to tighten from the inside, what kind of torque wrench would I need for the outside tightening tool. Thanks, and sorry if the questions don't make sense, I'm not sure what to call some of the stuff.

pretty much. They give you the drop bar hoods and ramps positions, and they're slightly cheaper to convert to.

Consider something like these TT levers as a cheap brake lever swap. Depending on how your shifter(s) is/are set up, that might take some more finagling.

I converted an old rigid mtb to a bullhorn commuter and rode it happily for years.

Perhaps Tektro or Dia Compe. I've used Tektro in the past, they're great.

Edit: I've used both of these on different bikes

Velo Orange also sells a pair I've used on Nitto Northroad bars: http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/dia-compe-inverse-brake-levers-22-2.html

Tektro: I use these on bullhorn bars like pictured in OP photo: http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RX-Reverse-Brake-Levers/dp/B001CJX4WO/191-0082638-2564130?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

I think that if quantum_spintronic is going to go through the hassle of fixing their brake levers, they might as well replace them with modern, internally routed levers. They'll brake stronger, and these aren't that expensive, and and are probably in better condition than the levers currently installed.

My buddy built one of these when he was barely scraping by without a car after high school. Said it was great at getting him to work except for the fact he was running though brake pads like weekly since he used a 70's road bike with the extra atrocious eraser type brake pads.

I agree. Riding the hoods is where I like to be.

Though I like the Shimano BL-R400's in that price range.

If someone can tell me how the 600's are any different I'm all ears.

Nevermind, seems I was mistaken. $28USD for a mechanical brake and shifter cable set on Amazon. It'd be about $45 retail for a hydraulic brake hose and a shift cable set.

Since a bike shop buys this stuff wholesale they can easily afford to charge exactly retail or under for a service like this and still make a fair profit, so OP is either being upcharged in parts too if it's a mechanical brakeset, or were charged a reasonable price for hydraulic.

I got the bleed kit from this guy, and it's been fine with keeping my XTs running smooth. Just start doing some YouTube research, like all of us other "YouTube mechanics" 😁

Shimano Brake Bleed Kit with Mineral Oil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4LCS5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KOz4Ab289WVJ3

Second on the Cane creeks mentioned above. You definitely should consider bar end style TT ones too.

I have one cross style for the rear & two bar end style. ( Cane Creek 200 TT Time Trial Levers (Pair), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R7QCCbEW9CR37 )

Have fun!

Get some Kool Stop Salmon Mountain brake pads. They are huge and give the best braking that's possible to acheive. It will be a straight upgrade.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Mountain-Bicycle-Threaded/dp/B001CJZ0Q2/

>Also, could anyone tell me what this type of brake and brake pad is called?

The brake is a Weinmann centerpull. The brake pads are just brake pads.

They make little in-line brake levers (sometimes called "cross levers") that you can add to a drop-bar road bike so that you can access the brakes from aerobars or some other position. Essentially, you cut the cable and install them in the middle of it, so both the original lever and the new little lever can pull on the brake cable.

That might give you some flexibility in placement and reach, although it doesn't help when riding with your hands on the hoods. You could put them on the horizontal top part of the bars, and use that as your "relaxed" riding position. Something like this. Or somewhere else entirely, if you can think of a better placement-- the nice thing about those is the flexibility.

Shimano also used to make a set of short-reach STI levers that we put on my wife's road bike (more than ten years ago) for similar reasons-- but I'm not sure if they still make those now that the normal levers can be adjusted directly as /u/sitdownrando-r points out. Nor am I entirely sure they'd address your problem, since it's just the hood height that's the problem, not the reach from the drops.

Edit: A spendier option occurred to me: the new electronic shifters allow you to add little shift "buttons" wherever you want. If you used those to shift instead of combined brake-shift levers, you could then go find a brake-only lever option that fit your hands better. This is probably both complicated AND expensive, though.

On cheaper bikes decals can be pretty low-tech, and cheaper bike-boom Centurions are not bad unless you buy bikes for the decals.

Not so much fixing, but there are things to check out. I would spin the wheels and see if they roll smoothly, turn the fork to see if the headset is okay, same with the cranks and bottom bracket. Most likely I bet the headset and bottom bracket are fine, but wheels get a lot of weather and road mess thrown at them and I bet the hubs need an overhaul.

If it were me, and I were doing all the work myself, I would replace all of the cables for shifters and brakes. I might also consider getting new brake handles, but that is just my preference.

I like these http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Road-Brake-Levers-Compact/dp/B000AO5GVE

I've read that disk brakes put extra force on the fork (which makes sense to me), so I doubt a fork that hasn't been built specifically for disk brakes will be able to withstand that force.

Have you looked into long reach calipers? I'm not sure if that's what you meant by "dropped brakes". You'll need brakes with about 4mm more reach than you have right now.

These brakes seem to be well reviewed for 700c conversions. They are nutted, which is what you'll probably need if the bike is sufficiently vintage (which it probably is, given that it doesn't have 700c wheels).

Edit: looking at this thread, you may have issues with freewheel vs. hub. The last comment is particularly interesting and probably warrants more research for your specific case.

Uh, I believe you just get the normal like this. Then you get an interrupter lever like this, and boom. Levers in both places. Not claiming to be smarter than anyone. Just surprised no one had suggested it. You don't have to get the levers I listed, just the same "type" I guess.

Pads are cheap and easy to replace, decent ones aren't even too expensive. I run https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CLSWKQ on my bikes myself and the difference between them and stock Tektro pads (or 30 year old pads) is night and day. They also stand out if anyone takes your bike, I mean who else has black/salmon pads? http://i.imgur.com/LEu0Ppj.jpg

If pads don't do it, you might need a cable replacement too. It's one of the easiest tasks around, you'll just need cable cutters which is the most expensive part of the whole ordeal.

Perusing SRAM's website the main benefit they tout is being able to shift both sets of gears with the same shifter.

I feel like it wouldn't be that difficult to just make a shifter that could shift both a regular FD and RD though...similar to those dual brake levers although a dual shifter would need 2 separate mechanisms.

>Would something like this work?

>http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BR-5700-L-RC55C3-Cartridge-Brake/dp/B004JKJKWG/[2]

Yes.
(Source: Have the same calipers on one of my bikes)

These work great on my Astro branded one, 2 of them for $12.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050LUBZ8/

Kool Stop Salmon pads are debatably the best budget caliper brake pads. (available on amazon, as well as most bike shops)

try removing the pads from the brake to compare, as they come in various shapes and form factors, though typically either an 'insert' that is hammered in with an awl, or a pad with a screw on it that can just be threaded on.

it may also be worth watching the park tool brake video for handy tricks on how to set toe-in (avoid squeaky annoying and save wear on the pads) as well as any adjustment settings you might desire.

the form of brake on your bike, the direct pull caliper is adequate for long pull bike levers, and offer a large amount of braking force for a small amount of movement at the caliper, but the biggest pain I've experienced with them is when one side doesn't pull as much as the other, requiring you to remove it so you can place the spring on the next peg and hope its enough adjustment

You could start with better friction pads.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E/ should fit.

Tektro should make a dual divot caliper that fits, but you'll need to measure the distance from the mount hole to the pads to find the right size.

Of course, that assumes that the cables are new and the levers are of adequate pull.

Or get the pads you want with new holders for less

Or equally good (to 6800) 6700 sets for $10

Or any of the dozens of generic "ultralight" holders on eBay for $9.

Your 'turkey legs' are the older road bike brakes with the 'suicide levers' that curve around so they are reachable from the flat section of your drop bars, yes? in that case, No, you cannot install v-brakes, they require your frame to have canti studs to mount them to. Your frame likely does not have these. You can greatly increase your braking power with a set of dual-pivot caliper brakes (likely long-reach model is necessary), a newer set of levers can help power and comfort greatly as well.

I like these. Lots of braking power. Only downside is that you have to do the full setup again each time you change the pad. In stock holders, you can set it up once, and then just change the pad inserts.

Just about anything is better than the stock Tektro pads.

Found the tires x2.
Tubes x2.
Seat is your choice, look for a "cruiser seat" if you want to retain the look of it x1.
Brake pads x2.

Cable kit is above. That should give you a rough outline of what I had to replace on mine, not counting opening up any of the sealed components to clean and regrease.

You can probably find plenty of turkey lever equipped bikes at your local dump (assuming yours allows for donation) if you want to go vintage.
Otherwise, the modern equivalent is called a “cross brake” or sometimes a cross lever. They are commonly used in cyclocross and are more hardy and effective than in the old days,

There is a model to fit every budget but here’s a cheap one
https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RL720-Cross-Brake-Lever/dp/B0090X36Y0

if they are stock brake pads i suggest replacing them , stock pads suck . Kool-Stop makes bitchen brake pads

i use these

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VT8VXQ3PEAV6TW65VHEX

​

also make sure you ajusted the brakes right so they both bite at the same time

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YS1cW3I4OgQ

park tools does a good job explaining it

Thanks, that makes sense!

Would this work: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JKJKWG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2TE9IQP68MWQU

Time Trial Levers. The Tektro RX 4.1 is my favorite.

Better for the application.
http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Alloy-Mountain-Cable-Brake/dp/B000AO7H16

thanks for the advice. Ordered these form Amazon.ca which I think are the same as the linked nashbar ones. http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004JKJKWG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>salmon compound pads

Like these: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Cantilever-Compound/dp/B001SYR4HO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=27YULV4MFFFI8&coliid=IH37QA2V3O3IK&psc=1?

This (brakes) plus this (shifts) comes out under $20.

I find it hard to imagine them any cheaper. A complete set of the black-coated inners costs pretty close to that at most LBSs.

Seems like an absurdly clunky and expensive ($300!?) device that doesn't appear to do anything that existing levers that pull two cables don't already do. For $13.

These were awesome for my flop n chop bullhorns.

These work great for these types of bars and are dirt cheap.

Like most places in NYC, they are not 'cheap,' but they are not really 'expensive.'

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Brake-Cable-Housing-Universal/dp/B0050LUBZ8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501542680&sr=8-2&keywords=brake+cables

You were charged about twice the value of the cables.

Actually I think those levers might have a smaller diameter because they're made for aero bars... not sure. But these look good:
tektro bar end reverse brakes, Dia Compe

Hey, you know they are only like 20 dollars, right? Tektro has similar ones for even cheaper.

http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTRO-Reverse-Triathlon-Brake-Lever/dp/B004W4JBT6/ref=pd_sbs_sg_3

Something like this may fit your situation: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006Z0OVWC?pc_redir=1396654313&robot_redir=1

What /u/mmembrino said. I recommend the Kool Stop

Definitely sand the braking surface down. You want rubber on aluminum for stopping power, not rubber on paint. Grab these pads. In the future, you can keep the cartridge and just replace the pad... it'll be even cheaper.

New brake pads made a big difference for me. I bought these and they made a big difference. Also make sure your brakes are adjusted correctly.

> single pivot caliper brakes suck

SheldonBrown disagrees:

"Shimano Linear Response, a series of friction-reducing modifications introduced in the late 1980's in the
Shimano 105 group. The 105 SLR brakes (the best sidepull calipers ever made, in my opinion) "

I can speak from experience that my BR1050s and BR6400s stop just as good as any modern dual pivot, and look much better on a vintage bike IMO. If you're having problems with braking performance, it's most likely the pads. Spend that $40 on some KoolStop Dura 2s, and you'll never need to "upgrade" to dual pivot.

A) WTF are you doing to burn through brake pads in less than a month? I am 160 lbs and have owned the same main bike since 2012, commuted fast and daily from Brooklyn to Chelsea on it for at least 4 years in total, toured with 35 lbs of gear on a 2000 mile trip through Europe (including 40 mph descents through the mountains) and am just now needing to replace my Shimano 105 pads.

B) I'm replacing them with Kool-Stop Road Bike pads based on my awesome experience with them as mountain bike pads.

C) Unless you're wayyyy heavier, going a lot faster (Strava says I average about 14mph through the city, stopping at most lights), are constantly riding the brakes, or have them incorrectly installed, I just can't fathom how this would be happening.

D) If you're truly burning up pads this quickly, your rims may be (are probably) shot too (assuming rim brakes, not discs).

You can improve things a little bit by sliding the saddle forward a bit. It's not a lot and you have to be careful that you don't go past any limit marks that might be on the rails.

You could get a major improvement by installing some interrupter levers (not a specific recommendation, just the first link on google). The installation will be a bit of a project but, it will let you brake comfortably from the flats. If you know how to replace a brake cable, installing interrupters should be trivial.

A much more major project would be swapping drop bars to flats. Since you've got down tube shifters rather than brifters, this wouldn't be too expensive all things considered but, still not particularly cheap.

I want to put bullhorns on my Specialized Sirrus SS. Does that make sense for the geometry? Also I would want to put the tektro rx4.1 levers on the ends. Would that work with my v-brakes?

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/sirrus-single-speed-mens-spec/p/173615?color=271962-173615

Tektro RX 4.1 Reverse Brake Lever Set Blacká https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJX4WO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5RyFDbNPB1V6Z

The upper half that I would use when my hands are on the straight but I've just decided to replace the handlebars and levers with new trial-esque setup.

Bars (Actually going black): http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-BullHorn-Handlebar-40cm-Blue/dp/B002I7PRTM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&coliid=I18KYNBPDA5LPS&colid=1JHQW4V0BH9PP

Levers: http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2TEPMUJD55N9Z&colid=1JHQW4V0BH9PP

Tape: http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Supercork-Bicycle-Bar-Tape/dp/B00142FFDA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&coliid=I3MX9WOPKPQ0BU&colid=1JHQW4V0BH9PP

I certainly wasn't looking for anything exotic, just a Cane Creek, but they didn't have any TT brake levers in stock, and in a store full of TT bikes it seemed like kind of a silly thing to not carry... my "surly mechanics" still got the job & a six-pack of beer while I waited a few weeks for parts, because I got the bike there & I wanted to give them my business.

Protip: Next time, run the brake cable along the bottom of the handlebar all the way to the stem, securing it with electrical tape. Then, put your bar tape over that. It looks clean as hell.

PS. I also recommend these time-trial brake levers, they plug into the end of the bar instead of strapping around it.

> These brakes seem to have really long reach, and I can't fine any with the the 23mm extra I would need.

You only need 19mm to drop from 622 to 584. Which is still a lot, yes.

These brakes have the longest reach:
https://store.somafab.com/dimod750cepu.html
https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-R559-Calipers-Silver-55-73mm/dp/B006Z0OVWC

Keep in mind that going to brakes with longer caliper arms means that you have to squeeze harder at the lever to get the same force on the pads.

I regularly (for a decade or so) see a 1-armed bicyclist on my commute, he's going the opposite direction so we've never spoken. Guy in his mid 40s; he rides a bike with no obvious mods.

One thing that you'll definitely want to do-- there are a variety of brake levers available that actuate both brakes from a single lever-- this is one example: https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Double-Lever-Silver/dp/B000AO7H16

When you check amazon for these levers it also lists what other people have bought with these levers.

You could try to buy one of those, or contact a webshop/lbs regarding the inner diameter.

Yeah I got some http://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS on sale and I had to buy barrel-ended brake cables and housing to run them through. It's not an entirely complicated process, but it is a bit of work. I liked my bullhorns but now I'm switching back to the drops that came on it / my new track drops just to spice things up. Fixed/track/singlespeed bikes are all very simple to maintain, so it's not too hard to learn to work on it if you don't mind getting your hands dirty from time to time.

I am not quite sure. I found this on Amazon and should be what you are looking for!

these shimano road levers should match the build aesthetic and have enough reach. i run them angled on a porteur bar, similar to how you'd be using them here. you could also consider a city syle lever.

edit - here's the shimanos on my bike

I got this package for $20 on ebay http://www.savannahtrading.com/images/DURASET.jpg - 2 sets of pads and a pair of holders. Not highway robbery but still silly considering it probably cost $1 to manufacture.

My next pads will probably be Dia Compe. http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Compe-Grey-Matter-Brake/dp/B001CJZ2S8 2 pairs for $8. I had something similar before and don't recall how they performed but am pretty sure they were no worse than the salmon pads.

Aluminum rims.

You want this style if you can get it to fit.

You might try replacing the brake pads with some of the Kool Stop salmon colored pads. I believe the "Continental" would fit these.

http://amzn.com/B001SYM690

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=kool+stop+mountain+brake+pads&qid=1562761914&s=gateway&sprefix=koolstop+mount&sr=8-3

In their stock config the longer spacer is already on the inside.

hey i'm buying these for my single speed bike


now i was wonder would these cables work with them?

https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RX-Reverse-Brake-Blacká/dp/B001CJX4WO

I have these on my Origin8 Bullhorn I

Since you're not using the hoods on the brakes anyways, why not get bar-end TT brakes?

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Continental-Salmon/dp/B001SYM690/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Just a replacement cable kit. It will come with the metal nipples for the ends and even some cable housings but most likely you can just re use your current cable housings.

Just as an example. https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Universal-Standard-Brake-Cable/dp/B0050LUBZ8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=mtb+brake+cable&qid=1567710446&s=gateway&sr=8-4

You need the appropriate holder for your brakes.

For lots of Shimano/Shimano-type road brakes, that's this one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E

I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-Trial-Levers-Black/dp/B000ZTNXCS

There are double pull brake levers. I had one on my old gas bicycle conversion, because you need a brake lever for the clutch, and having 3 levers is a hassle.

If you find yourself there a lot, there are brake levers that mount on the ends. I'm planning on getting a set of those once I convert a used single-speed I have to bullhorn bars.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Double-Lever-Silver/dp/B000AO7H16

I don't know what the point is though.

LHT Frame - $520 after tax

Chukker Wheels - $85 x 2

Tires Schwalbe Marathon Plus RLX 700 x 45 C Bicycle Tire - $54 x 2

Alloy Headset Spacers - $7.89 x 2

Shift Levers - $60

Chain - $10

Brake Cables - $10

Brakes - $15 x 2

Extra Long Shift Cables - $6

Derailleur - $24

Cassette - $17

Crankset - $40

Spindle - $24

Headset - $45

Seatpost - $20

Brooks Saddle - $145

Rack - $35

Brooks Panniers - $150 x 2

Brooks Bar Tape - $65

Tools

Saw Guide - $41.36

Starnut Setter - $22

http://www.amazon.com/Problem-Solvers-Cable-Doubler-Brakes/dp/B001CJVLRO


http://problemsolversbike.com/products/cable_doubler/


http://www.brakedirector.com/


http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Alloy-Mountain-Cable-Brake/dp/B000AO7H16/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1

Sunlite Alloy Double MTN Lever, Black/Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7H16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0QgYzbFXXTRE2

I would upgrade to Shorty side pulls and these pads http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1374713430&sr=8-7&keywords=bicycle+brake+pads

so this one? there seem to be a couple models to choose from
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425337739&sr=8-2&keywords=kool+stop

Sizing:
http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer

Tires:
http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Gatorskin-Bicycle-700x23-Folding/dp/B001UL5JNG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427761173&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+tires

Brake Pads:
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427761257&sr=8-1&keywords=kool+stop

Tune ups:
http://www.wasatchtouring.com/
http://highlanderbikeshop.com/service/

The set-up:
Front brake, lever, + cable.

• Slam the stem
  
• get proper wheels
  
• get proper handlebars
  
• get rid of the brake levers a get one like [this](http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-RL720-Cross-Brake-
  Lever/dp/B0090X36Y0)
  
• raise the camera
  
  Then we'll talk about an upvote

I ordered up a couple pairs of these Kool Stop pads from Amazon. Will report back once I get and install them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CLSWKQ

The rim is fine, take a scotch-brite pad with some soap and water and scrub it down.

Replace your pads (from what I can see, they'll be these)

Note: That groove on your rim is a wear groove. When it disappears, you're rims should be replaced.

I commute too, and I'm going to suggest the two things I've done. The first is to get a bell and ding the shit out of it all the fucking time. It seriously gets people's attention. The second thing is to replace your front brake pads with KoolStop Salmon pads. The salmon pads squeal like a motherfucker, and are also fantastic at getting people's attention.

I feel your pain. People just don't pay attention to cyclists, and then they act like we're the assholes.

edit: added link to brake pads

I use cane creek TT200 with cantilevers and have no issues

Also, these are the Kool Stop Dura Ace pad holders that I was talking about. They should work with your old brakes: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Bicycle-Dura-Ace-Ultegra/dp/B0014BRW6E

You will need new shifters and I would guess the brakes are missing too. So you may need new brake levers. New cable housing to route the cables. Adjusting everything. Links to some options are below

https://www.amazon.com/Paraout-Shimano-SL-M310-Shifter-Trigger/dp/B07W4HK3QP/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=bike+trigger+shifter+3x8&qid=1573758587&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/BicycleStore%C2%AE-Universal-Aluminum-Bicycle-Mountain/dp/B013QLONKM/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDEw-ac_d_pm&keywords=brake+lever&pd_rd_i=B013QLONKM&pd_rd_r=b88b7687-7250-4233-87eb-35bb520fc968&pd_rd_w=lALuB&pd_rd_wg=vs2TF&pf_rd_p=24d053a8-30a1-4822-a2ff-4d1ab2b984fc&pf_rd_r=0QYX1S131NSC5930Z3QS&psc=1&qid=1573758728

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Universal-Standard-Brake-Cable/dp/B0050LUBZ8/ref=sr_1_6?crid=M0H4P9EMDCUC&dchild=1&keywords=replacement+brake+cable+for+bicycle&qid=1573758757&sprefix=replacement+brake%2Csporting%2C194&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Standard-Zinc-coated-Derailleur-1-2x2100-mm/dp/B00KXMEXOY/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=shift+cable+bike&qid=1573758787&sr=8-4

Can you fix the problem by adjusting the brakes in closer to the rim? (Apologies if they're set right, just covering bases and not knowing what your knowledge level is at.)

If not...

SRAM makes adjustable levers, I know: https://www.sram.com/sram/road/products/sram-s-990-aero-brake-lever


Have you thought of using a Travel Agent? Not sure if it can be made to work with cantis.

These Cane Creek levers claim to work with cantis and calipers, so they may be longer...?

Oh yeah, no worries. They’re called “brake levers for drop bar handle bars”. These are the specific ones I got an amazon. SHIMANO BL-R400 Road Drop Brake Levers Set (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5LLWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_1qGxDbM1TY53M

To not though, these are just brake levers and have NO shifting capabilities since this is a single speed bike.