Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

• A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.
  
  
• A Floor Pump
  
  
• A Metric Hex Set
  
  
• A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)
  
  
• A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed
  
  
• Some Grease
  
  
• Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.
  
  
• A helmet
  
  Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
  
  

  New Bikes
  

  
  

• An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.
  
  
• The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.
  
  
• The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning
  
  
• The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.
  
  
• The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.
  
  

  Used Bikes
  

  
  Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Don't worry about the helmet. None are really safer than others, just lighter and stylish.

You don't mention maintenance. You'll want to start cleaning your chain really regularly. Keep it clean and lubricated and it'll last FAR longer for you. You'll probably need a new chain each year too.

You might already know all about bike maintenance, but if not, get a good thick guide like Zinn's guide to bike maintenance, and start reading. Also watch YouTube videos before you try something the first time -- it'll save you tons of pain and money!

The backpack is fine, it'll just make your back really sweaty. Panniers will fix that, not just a rack (that can work though, just get some bungee cords). Panniers and a well designed bag can be great. I have this, and it's very functional, although I hesitate to recommend it as I haven't tried any others for comparison. It clips into a rack by the same manufacturer making it trivial to hold it down.

Topeak Velcro Strap Version Dxp Trunk Bag with Rigid Molded Panels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WSLT2O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_yxC9wb6QSPKM2

Pack a multi tool and probably two spare tubes. Patches are great, but they can't fix everything. I'd also suggest having a plan for a taxi or uber ride. You won't need it, but if you have a flat just before an important meeting, it's good to have a plan in advance.

I'd plan to ride heavy, so light weight upgrades won't help much (losing weight will help way more than any upgrade). The best upgrade you can do is probably puncture resistant tires. $100 will get you a great set that will save you dozens of flats. I love continental gatorskins or continental 4 season tires, but you'll have to do your own research.

You can get great gravel tires that run fine on asphalt in case some light off roading can save you some time.

Finally get lights for night riding. Get a rear red light that has a mode that's on all the time and still flashes brighter. Then people won't lose your position with the strobing, but it'll still grab their attention so you don't get hit by a texting driver. I really like this one, but there are dozens of decent choices.

Cygolite Hotshot 2-Watt USB Rechargeable Taillight with USB Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_GQC9wbAKFWJVD

The front light is critical so you can see at night. I love the light and motion lights. The more expensive versions are really bright for off road riding, but they also give you far more than an hour with the same brightness as cheaper versions. I suggest this one, but as always, it's a pretty personal choice.

Light and Motion Urban 650 Headlight (Silver Moon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAPC2FG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_IIC9wb7D5E8M1


In order of what I'd purchase first:

Brushes, degreaser and lubricant for the chain if you don't have it.

Rear light for safety.

Front light if you will ever ride at night.

Better tires.

Tools to cover more regular maintenance.

Panniers

So /r/bikewrench and /r/bicycling are much more active sub-reddits that you may see more attention on, but I can try to help you out here.

Switching the bars could require a few things:


Stem Size and by extension handlebar size: the Escape has a stem made for 31.8mm diameter handlebars with pretty large bars actually. Most drop bars you find will be 25.4mm at the stem and 23.8mm everywhere else. Any discrepancy can be an easy fix with some shims (either bought or made). It is also possible (according to Sheldon Brown) that your current bars may have very similar sizing to standard drop bars. The stem may also need to be shortened or lengthened to comfortably accommodate for the new handlebars and riding positions.


Braking: As you may or may not have noticed most drop bars come with brake levers that allow you to access the levers while riding on the drops. This is important because it allows you more leverage at the moments when you are going the fastest. Check out this image stolen from 'Lovley Bike' that shows the typical 'breaking on the drops' position.

While it is not necessary to have these brakes and the 'hoods' that accompany them it is an excellent idea and gives more hand positions! Alternatively it is possible to use levers only on the flats of the drop bars (but not the ones you currently have may need the aforementioned shims).

Shifting!
I see the Escape has Shimano M310 trigger shifters. Those also may have to go. They, like the brakes, can be mounted on the flats of the bar but it is only very low end bikes that do this to their riders. There are an ungodly number of ways to incorporate shifting on a bike with drop bars. You can integrate them into the brakes with STI's, stick them on the end of the bars with Bar End Shifters, Get them onto the stem like many vintage bikes Stem Shifters or get them on the down-tube for a classic look Down Tube Shifters...

That aside the only real options up there that you have for a conversion are Bar-end or "Brifters" Brake/Shifters...reusing your old ones could work but it would be inelegant.

Geometry MOST IMPORTANTLY! Your bike was designed to be ridden upright, the stem, top tube, every inch of the bike assumes the rider is using flat bars. There is no telling really what the ride will 'feel' like after you start riding on the hoods/drops. Its not as bad as most hybrids with front suspension but I could not tell you anything about how it might feel once the swap is made.


For moving forward I see a few options

Option 1 Quick and Dirty Get some drop bars and some old cans. Strip your current bars of components and install the drops(don't forget shims), If sheldon is correct about the size of over-sized road bikes all your old components should slide onto the flat part of the drops and just fit. It would be a unique way to ride but mostly functional...Personally I would have concerns about how safe it would be.

Option 2 More hand positions!
If what you want is more hand positions don't overlook bar end attachments:
Bar end attachments
Orgin 8 might actually have the answer to your prayers: Bolt On Drops

Option 3 Dress her like a roadie
Trying to make your hybrid into a road bike is usually not the right way to go but...with $10-30 for bars, and $100 for Shifters and Brakes, plus $10-20 for complete re-cabling across the bike (MTB and Road bikes use different cable ends) and of course labor if you aren't that handy. Tack on $10 for bar-tape to make her pretty and comfortable and you aren't that far in the hole.
You don't get off any easier for Bar Ends once you get the appropriate brakes its about the same. All that and your former hybrid could pass any scrutinizing test of a lycra-clad cyclist, you'd have yourself a certified road-bike. No promises on comfort!


This is just a vague indication though! For a real in-depth price assessment and Q&A please visit your local bike store

For my $00.02...Don't bother trying to convert them. Ride the bike you have the way it was intended to be ridden. If after a while you still feel like its lacking, throw on some bar ends for more hand positions, Still feel like its lacking? Go test-ride some road bikes to see if riding on the drops is right for you. I'm not talking about a test ride around the parking lot either! No less then 3 miles on that sucker, get a real feel for it. Love it!? Sell the Escape and do a TON of research into inexpensive road bikes. They are out there waiting for ya.

Few things. I think that most of the people here pointed out the biggies - rules, regulations, legal necessity stuff, maps, etc. I'm still newish to the city and just got a bike a few months ago. What really really helped me was joining some cycling groups. People are typically very friendly and they know their bike stuff and can help you if you have a flat, etc.

I first joined bicycling groups on www.meetup.com. The only one I've ever rode with was Social Cycling NYC though, really great folks. I also joined the 5 Borough Bike Club (5BBC); I've only been on one ride so far but, again, great people.

There are lots of rides to participate in too. The first Friday of every month, Time's up does a Moonlight Central Park ride. Really cool, I did the last one. There is also one of these for Prospect Park and I hear that one is nice too. Time's up also does a ride called Critical Mass, but I haven't personally went, just heard about it. These are free rides. Some (all? I don't know) of the 5BBC rides are free but there is a yearly membership ($20 and if you join in October, I think, you essentially are buying the 2013 membership and have the rest of 2012 free). However, I'm not sure how much free time you'll have to gallivant around!

Joining an organization like 5BBC or Transportation Alternatives also gets you discounts at bike shops as an FYI. Each organization has a list of participating shops.

Anytime I've ridden in Brooklyn, I've really enjoyed it. There are many more bike lanes than up my way in Queens. Take advantage of that and explore! A ride to Rockaway beach is nice too.

Some gear you might be interested in that I thought was helpful:

26 in one multi tool

On frame pump


Also, I don't know what sort of pedals you have or prefer. However IF you decide to get clips or clipless pedals, some of the bike folks I've met told me a few things. (I have clipless pedals btw) If you've never had clips/clipless pedals, get a pedal that has the the cleat thing on one side and a pedal platform on the other. This way, you don't have to be clipped in if you don't want to be.
I got these.

Also, for the shoes that go with said pedal: I was told for predominantly city riding that you can wear out the cleat on the bottom of the shoe faster if you have the treadless road bike shoe. Also, if you do any walking on hard surfaces with this shoe I guess it wears out quicker. If you buy a mountain bike shoe it has a perimeter of tread that goes around the sole. Keeps the cleat more protected from grinding on the pavement. It will still grind on certain types of ground or flooring though.

Since I already have Amazon open:

This Versus this

I have Pearl Izumi shoes and I really like them.

Well, you should certainly have a mirror, yeah. Maybe not a disco ball, but at least one. I like THIS ONE the best. Heck, put one on each bar end if you're feeling nutty.

Use flashing lights even during the daytime. You'd be surprised how well they can increase your visibility in broad daylight. For the rear, the Cygolite Hotshot seems to be the brightest from the research I've done. Not sure about the best front one. I got a CREE 1800 lumen on ebay (brand new) for like $40. They sell 'em cheap outta China. Serfas makes a good one too - the thunderbolt I think? Battery doesn't last too long, though. If you wanna be OTT about it, get 2 front & 2 rear - have one steady and one flash in each direction. Then, of course, wear bright clothing & all that. You can find reflective vests for cycling pretty cheap.

My dad used to commute 18 miles each way to work and used a side flag like THIS ONE all the time. It definitely makes folks give you a little extra room. Oh yeah, get a bell. Seriously. They make small ones if you're too embarrassed by a big one, but they don't have the "classic" bell sound. Nothing says "bike" like that ole' "ring-ring" and you want folks to know what you are before they even see you.

With some of this equipment on, my wife calls me the safety patrol leader. She still worries, but she knows I'm adamant about safety, am always on the defensive and, because of this gear and my practices, am less likely to get hit than if I wore all black and thought I owned the road.

Well, other than those pointers, just always be militant about safety, stop at all red lights & stop signs, signal for turns and try to ride in groups.

> The ideal scenario is to have a big club where you can find a group that goes at the pace you want, but in most places your options will be limited. Perhaps start by practicing your group riding skills with a slow group, then go with a fast group and accept that you might get dropped.
The average guy on a Saturday or Sunday morning doesn't care about the gender makeup of the group but does want to get a good workout. They won't mind if they have to wait for you for a few minutes after designated sprints, but if you can't keep up at a normal cruising pace then it's better to wave goodbye.

Oh, totally! I completely understand that. There are some bike shops that have group rides of various levels, but that's about it. Not too many clubs (other than casual ones) around here that I've been able to scope out. But, maybe I'll check out the casual ones to learn some etiquette-- that sounds like a good idea!

>Consider getting started on clipless soon, since clipping in and out quickly is a key group riding skill. Other than that, all you really need is the equipment to repair a puncture (bring a spare tube, not just glue and patches) and the right clothes, including gloves and glasses.

Rodger that! I'll probably get clipless in a month or so. Do you have an opinion on THESE? I want to have the option of using my bike to commute-- so I don't want to commit solely to clipless.

>Sounds like you're on the right track. See if you can bump up to 3 days per week training as this will really help. And if you're only doing short workouts make them count. Towards the end of winter you should be doing some tough interval sessions.
When you have an opportunity to race in the spring, just dive in. Crits are great fun if you can keep your cool when people are riding very close to you. Don't worry about poor results at the beginning.
Women's racing often has small fields or mixed fields, so a lot of races break up. Just keep hammering away.
And if you get a chance, have a go at individual time trialling. It's either the most boring form of racing or the truest, depending on your philosophy on life.

Yeah! I think they have open studio time, so I'm hoping to get in a 3rd training session during the week by myself (I just don't have the cash at the moment to pay for the 3x/week program ;( And biking outside isn't an option here in the winter-- though if the weather holds up like how its been: We might skip winter entirely!)

Re: Racing-- Oh I plan to! The first one is in April, so I'm planning on doing one per weekend (if possible), before the BIG tour comes in June. Provided I finish all of the races I participate in, I think I'd be able to compete in those as a Cat 4!

Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.

But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...

• cheap tool set ($40) (total $40)
  
• torque wrench ($50) (total $90)
  
• chain cleaning tool ($10) (total $100)
  
• cable cutting tool ($35) (total $135)
  
• maybe chain pliers? ($10) (total $145)
  
  At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools
  
  
• some nice metric hex tools ($15) (total $160)
  
• some torx equivalents ($11) (total $171)
  
  Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier
  
  
• tire levers ($9) (total $180)
  
  If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.
  
  
• Portable multi-tool ($25) (total $210)
  
  I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)
  
  
• work gloves ($20) (total $230)
  
  There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.
  
  And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.
  
  Best of luck
  
  edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!

Enjoy the FX! I'm rocking the 7.5 and I am completely in love with cycling. Here's a few words of advice:

Ditch that cable lock. I can walk up to a bike with a cable with a five dollar tool and have it for myself in 10-20 seconds. Get a U-Lock and rope. The correct answer for how many locks or what kind of locks to use is how many you are willing to carry. This will depend on your location as well. U-Locks + ropes typically require an individual to have a hacksaw, grinder, etc. I live in a smaller college town and mostly just have to worry about drunk assholes so that works perfect. In other areas more heavy duty and smaller U-Locks are more necessary. This will probably work fine and is cheap unless you're in Detroit or something.

Fenders. I feel like that should be your next investment unless you bike a lot at night. I bike a ton at night and decided to invest in great lights after almost being hit by both cars and bikes several times. The first time you have somewhere to be and go through a puddle, the fenders pay for themselves. These are what I rock and I go through puddles / lakes which I probably shouldn't. I stay nice and dry while my friends breeze through them and get completely soaked.

Racks and bungies are great for the FX series. Like others mentioned, this is just a fun bike. I use it for recreation, commuting, bar hopping, exercise, you name it! A rack and a bungie net makes it awesome and Ortlieb panniers are an even better addition.

Besides fenders however... the seat and pedals (maybe) are the next things I'd recommend to look at. The pedals look metal in that picture, but if there's plastic, toss them. Well, I guess you can use them. It depends on the rider, but there's a pretty good track record of the FX series stock pedals only lasting roughly 500 miles before they completely break. Obviously this will vary by user. These are my favorite commuter pedals because I can go clipless later or I can commute at the same time without switching out. These are cheaper and better for commuting just because of the pricing.

As for the seat, your ass will never get more comfy than sitting on a brooks.

Enjoy the FX, it's a wonderful machine and I cherish mine. I was biking to work for the first time in a month (been on vacation) and I forgot I had to go to work. I accidentally biked a few extra miles down the bike path before I remembered I was commuting and not going for an enjoyable bike ride. Careful, it becomes an addiction.

And here's a shameless plug for my pride and joy. It still had the old pedals, saddle, fenders and needs an updated snapshot.

Thanks for playing along.

> Busch and Muller Ixon IQ Premium

Good This might be one of the most amazing light out there. Unlike many other lights they recognize that "good" isn't just pumping out tons of lumens. They put the light where it needs to go, on the road and not where it shouldn't be - in drivers eyes and in the trees. Them and Light and Motion have the best optics I've seen. There's a few tunnel beam test out there which show beam patterns well.

This review sold me on the light

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwM7vDvvGhU

They cover the beams at the end.

Now the thing is in this vid he's shooting pitch black, which all lights look bright in. Either way the flood is great.

Bad The high run time is listed at 3hrs (standard pretty much..) which is just long enough or a little too short depending on you. I wish more lights ran 4hrs on high as I take long rides with breaks in the middle. Itd be nice to not worry.

It doesn't have any side cut outs for visibility which do seem to help, even on very low powered lights.

Ugly

The main downfall for this light is its price, which I think is over $100. For some people $100 for one light isn't great. Some people might prefer to spend $100 on a different lighting setup (albeit likely with worse optics).


>Cygolite Hotshot



good

Crazy popular and a pretty neat light. I like the strong strobes and customizable flash settings for traffic

bright, unique flash patterns, affordable, good company.

bad

My big beef is it lacks a gentle pulse like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UthVrhsbRr4

for group/night trail rides i dont want to blind people. also id love to run a pulse/flasher combo.

PDW (I think) makes a light that combines a crazy flash pattern with a gentle strobe, that might be king...

ugly

lots of complaints about the mount, going back to at lease 2012. last thing i want is to lose a light on a ride w/o knowing.

"This light is great for visibility and can be seen from far away. MAJOR DRAWBACK - the light is mounted to the bike with a very flimsy mount. every time i go over a bump the light is jostled and ends up pointing straight down at the ground which of course defeats the purpose."

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/product-reviews/B005DVA57Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_top_recent?ie=UTF8&filterBy=addThreeStar&showViewpoints=0&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

Definitely get a bib, not shorts. I hate the elastic in shorts, and bibs also don't shift around on you. I am a big fan of Voler and they also have some of their items on sale on their website right now.

You didn't specify which kind of pump you have. If you don't have a floor pump; get one. You will always want to top off your tires before you go out. There is a lot of debate on pumps, but I love my Joe Blow Sport.

Don't get a camelbak. I am in love with my camelbak for hiking, skiing, hunting, etc. but hate it for road cycling. It is uncomfortable in the road cycling position. I'm no expert, but it also seems to generate a lot more drag, which will slow you down. Get bottles instead.

I'm a huge fan of 24 oz Polar Bottle. They are cheap and keep your drinks pretty cold.

I would also recommend a quality energy drink if you are going on long rides (4+ hrs). I love Cytomax Tropical Fruit. Buy super cheap bottles if you are using energy powder, because they are hard to clean and get kinda gross after a while. Before I started using a good energy drink, I would tend to bonk out after 4-ish hours. Switching to an energy drink helped me keep going on longer rides.

If you bought all of these things, you would be just shy of $200. Things I'd consider but don't think are absolutely necessary are: gloves and a good jersey. Also a bike computer, but a lot of people are just using Strava on their phones. You can also buy another bib in case you want to ride multiple days in a row.

Hope this helps!

Edit: Definitely have a portable pump and/or CO2 inflator with you on your rides.

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

If you aren't in a city with notoriously high and advanced bike theft, and aren't leaving it out overnight, try this: http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Pitbull-Ls-11-5-4-5/dp/B005YPKBRI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463020335&sr=8-3&keywords=onguard+pitbull

The long shackle is technically less secure, because it's easier to leverage open, but in a place without a lot of racks it's a blessing to have, because you can fairly easily find /something/ in short walking distance that'll go around, unlike the smaller Ulocks that mostly only work with racks (or, I've found, bikes without big bags and wide upright handlebars). It's a good medium security lock, and both sides of the shackle lock. Downsides, it's heavy, because big, but not as heavy as a chain which is your next smart option (don't get cable locks, they can be cut soooo easily), and the mounting bracket is OK, but I've had two of them fail. I just carry mine in a bag now.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463020570&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+series+2 This is a little lower security lock, but still a mighty fine one in an area with mostly thefts of opportunity. The included cable is for passing through your wheels for a secondary bit of safety. It's the best selling option at the good local bike shop out where I am (Indianapolis).

As for using them, this is the classic guide: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html His method is routinely the best, but without racks it can be hard to lock through the wheel and not the frame. If you can't lock through the wheel, make sure the shackle goes through one of the triangles. And, no matter what, lock to something securely attached to the ground and don't lock to anything the bike can be lifted off and over. Be sure and try lifting any cheap racks you do come across, you'll be surprised how many aren't bolted down right... or at all.

When it comes to books, you should always wait until the first day of class so the professor goes over what you will need for the course. For some classes you might not even need a book at all! You will not be using the book very much if at all the first week of the quarter so you will be perfectly fine waiting until the first day or two to order your books! I recommend avoiding the bookstore because it tends to be overpriced. Amazon has much better deals if you want a new book. For used books, join the Textbooks for Sale Facebook page, which is part of the UC Davis groups on Facebook. Also, many people obtain their books in PDF format online or through others who have taken the course. While this is not legal, it does provide for a very cheap alternative to buying your books (but again, it is illegal in most cases unless the publisher has explicitly released the book online in PDF format free of charge!)

I live in West Village as well actually! If you are in a furnished apartment you will get a bed, desk, nightstand and dresser to yourself. You also get a TV stand, living room table, dining table, and a sofa included that you will share. I recommend coordinating with your housemates on what to bring. That is what I did and it is way better than bringing 4 sets of silverware, plates, etc. Is there anything specific you'd like to know about that you should bring? The bare minimum (computer, clothes, kitchen utensils) is what I brought and I am doing just fine!

As for bikes, I recommend a single speed or standard road bike for commuting. The commute from West Village to the middle of campus on bike is 5-7 minutes depending on how fast you biking.

If you are looking to spend under $300 then buy a nice, used road bike when you get to Davis. There is a Bikes for Sale page for UC Davis on Facebook that is regularly updated! Craigslist works fine too. If you are looking to spend $300 or more, ($300 to $500 can get you a good quality bike that will last you throughout college) I recommend checking out this website: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm

I personally ride a Single Speed and I love it! It has no gears so you don't need to worry about shifting. It is lightweight, fast, and reliable. I have the Windsor The Hour from BikesDirect (it was $300 when I got it). I recommend the Mercier Kilo TT if they have it in stock (it is extremely popular so it is hard to find in stock). Otherwise the Dawes SST AL and Windsor TheHour/Clockwork are great too!

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Edit: I almost forgot! Thanks for reminding me /u/nTranced. A good U-lock is a must in Davis. Bike theft isn't extremely common but it does happen from time to time. If you have a nice bike make sure it is locked up with a U-lock. I personally recommend this lock as it is a good combination of price and effectiveness: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405012899&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+bike+lock

For tail lights I highly recommend the Planet Bike SuperFlash, PDW Radbot 1000 and PDW Danger Zone. Here's a direct link to Portland Design Works' selection of lights. I can't speak for PDW headlights as I have yet to purchase one but the quality of their tail lights is outstanding. All three of these lights cost $25-$30. I purchased them on Amazon.

As for a headlight I use a Fenix LD20 which will set you back $60 but the light is way better than any dedicated bicycle light with the same output (180 lumens @ 2xAA) for that price (e.g. Light & Motion/Magic Shine/NiteRider/etc). The LD20 can be used as an EDC with an assortment of attachments which can also be used on your bike. I've been experimenting with the white diffuser tip and have found that it provides a great 360 degree illumination of my bike at night when mounted on the down tube.

You can mount the light just about anywhere on your bike with either this mount or this one. The first I use on the handlebars and second I use to mount the light on my helmet. They're also good for mounting a lock on the frame.
I also invested in a pack of Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable Ni-MH batteries on amazon.

Whatever lights you decide on settling with I strongly recommend they take AA or AAA batteries as CR123's and 18650's are expensive and hard to come by when on the road.

You can never have too many lights. I've invested over $140 in several lights to be better seen and that's much cheaper than having to pay a hospital bill because I wasn't illuminated enough.

Lastly, I recommend the Delta Airzound Air Horn. This thing is a beast and impresses everyone that sees it and scares many that hear it. It has saved me from two very near collisions at night when my lights just weren't enough because the drivers weren't paying attention at all.

Honestly, your needs are really pretty minimal and your budget is more than adequate. Here are a few points to consider to get the bike to do what you want.

First, get a rear rack and panniers. This might cost $100-$150 out of your budget, but is VERY worth it because now you can carry things with you. Your commute is short enough that a backpack wouldn't be terrible, but if you want to pick up groceries or go longer distances then the backpack becomes a much less attractive idea.

Second, I recommend getting flat resistant tires for commuting. A flat tire sucks when you're on your way into the office. Count on spending close to $100 for a set of these. It sounds like a lot, but the difference in dependability is huge. I have Continental Touring Plus, but there are a few brands out there that have build a solid reputation.

Third, get a good lock, and use it. The bay area is bad for bike theft, even from places that you think would be safe. They're very easy to sell for a quick buck, no questions asked. Read up on how to lock the bike and how not to.

Fourth, get front and rear lights. Get good ones. It's staying light later now, but you want to be really visible to cars. I use a light like this in front: http://amzn.com/B00GJZ015Y

Happy shopping!

Waterproof gloves.

I know you said you have shoes, but these covers are reasonable. I'm not a huge fan of the color, but winter above the 45 parallel is a dark time of the year and a little extra "I'M HERE" never hurts.

This jacket might seem a little expensive, however I own a few Shower Pass items and cannot say enough good stuff about the quality, durability and comfort of their gear. In my book, they are one of the best wet weather bike clothing outfits around.

There are a TON of options for lighting. Basically you want something on the front that is 400 Lumen or better. For the rear, I've been buying Cygolite's Hot Shot for years. They've always delivered and I've actually had several riders comment on how visible they make me to traffic.

Not sure if that model Schwinn has braze ons for a rear rack? Would strongly recommend adding one and getting a bag if you do. It's really nice not having the weight on one's back in the wet. Good luck, and welcome to the non-fair weather cycling gang. :D

For me, this: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PH-1-2-P-Handled-Wrench/dp/B003FPONCI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802830&sr=8-2&keywords=park+tool+allen+key&dpID=419-T8tUMxL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

I was too stingy to buy good allen keys for a very long time because I had a ton of really cheap ones, and the cheap ones did work. But every time I use the ones above, I think: "These were so worth it". I say that to myself every single time.

​

Not a tool, but since someone else mentioned a tire: 200 miles ago I put on some Maxis Hookworms - best commuting tires I ever had. Wow. I had Vee Chinane and then Vee Speedster before - I got flats every other week, none on the hookworms and the hookworms are much more stable on less grippy surfaces either. Every time I reach a place I think: Wow, those are the best tires I ever had.

​

Other tools I use constantly:

- my bike repair stand, i use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802939&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bikehand+bike+stand&psc=1

- my chain link tool: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Shop-Tools/Park-Tool-Master-Pliers-MLP-1-2/B00D9NW32I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803019&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tool+chain+link+tool

- A good portable multitool with chainbreaker: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Multifunction-Tools/Topeak-Alien-31-Function-Bicycle-Tool/B000FIE4AE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803074&sr=8-2&keywords=alien+tool

​

​

that is a little better than using a giant u-lock but i'd hate to ride all over town with a giant chain. ideally a smaller u lock for normal use, and then carry a chain for when you think you might have issues locking it up or leave that somewhere you will be locking it frequently. the onguard beast chain seems to be the go to and comes with a lock as well, and as far as i know the kryponite NYFU is still the best lock on the market though it is expensive.

honestly just get as good of a u-lock you can afford if you have reasonable access to bike racks, or get the chain setup if you are wrapping around posts or trees. anything is defeatable, your best bet is to make yours harder than someone else's lock and hope for the best.
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/commuting-touring-ride-reports/boltcutter-proof-locks-276407.html
http://www.lfgss.com/thread17938.html

Looks like a lot of stuff has been covered already.

As far as pedals, I ride with these Faceoff 13's and they've treated me well. If you can afford a decent pair of riding shoes, you can't really go wrong with 5.10's. If you decide to go clipless later, you can get 5.10's that you can ride clipless or on flats (see the Hellcat's). I recommend a good shoe with a sturdy sole. I rode with Vans for a while and dabbed my foot to catch my balance and ended up dabbing it right into a rock. The Vans crumpled and my toe took the brunt of the force. Not fun. I couldn't walk very well for a while. Good riding socks are awesome, too just to keep your feet from getting really sweaty.

Someone mentioned the Camelbak MULE. That's what I ride with and highly recommend it.

As for a helmet, I've been riding with a Fox Flux this season and I've been really impressed with it. I wear a skullcap under it to help keep my head cool and keep sweat from dripping into my face. You'll want something well ventilated over the BMX helmet for sure.

I do highly recommend a good pair of riding shorts with a comfortable chamois. I have some shorts from Fox, Dakine and Pearl Izumi and the Fox shorts have the best chamois and fit most comfortably.

You'll definitely want to bring an extra tube or two, tire levers and a hand pump or CO2. As far as tools, I take this multi-tool. It's a bit heavy, but it's treated me well. I would also throw some zip ties in your bag as well. They're light, but when you need them, they're worth their weight in gold.

Hi. Italian here!

• Recently i bought Finish Line Extreme Fluoro for stabs after a long research, is the fastest that you can get and is not bad.
  
  
• CandyKeys has SuperLube! Is also cheap for europe, i did a test, if you get 10 superlubes is 7 euro + 4 euro DHL shipping, 11 euro for Italy is pretty good imho
  
  
• Also SwitchTop has SuperLube, shipping is something like 8$ to Italy but if you need something other from the shop, may be worth it, otherwise CandyKeys is better!
  
  
• Krytox/Teflon formula from Pexon
  
  From what i saw, Krytox is usually better, not sure what is Pexon formula but the original Krytox is used to be better but is also pretty expensive, especially to Italy, I would say just go for that Finish Line on Amazon or SuperLube from CandyKeys and you will be fine :)
  
  Ciao!

Lots of us commuters use SPD shoes and pedals. You don't have to, but they're pretty nice. The shoes you'll have to check out for yourself as every foot is different, but I would recommend the Shimano M520 as a great and cheap starter pedal.

I'm not a big fan of campus pedals (one side flat, other side clip), but some folks are. If you really want the best of both worlds I think you'll be better off with something like the Shimano M424.

It has much of what you need (allen wrenches & screwdrivers), plus a bunch of things you might not (sockets & socket wrenches). If all you have to spend is $12, you could probably do worse, but if you want a good multi-tool that'll last you a while, you should probably skip it.

At a minimum, i think a multi-tool should have allen wrenches (3,4,5,6mm at least), a philips and a flat screwdriver, and a chain-breaker. It should also have at least one tire lever unless you carry that separately. If your bike has hex head bolts anywhere (usually 8mm, less commonly 9 and 10mm), it should also have those or you should carry them separately.

Some people carry a tool like this one that has pretty much everything. The chain-breaker on that one is outstanding; I used the same one (on a different Topeak tool) as my only chain-breaker for years and it still works perfectly.

My bike doesn't need those extra tools, so for an all-in-one, I prefer only to carry what I need. This one is the first one i bought 7 or 8 years ago and was used regularly until last spring. It has all the tools needed for bikes that only use allen bolts, and the chain-breaker is awesome if you have a separate allen wrench to turn it. The tire levers are pretty solid and will last years if you use them carefully. My only real complaint about it is that the chain-breaker is turned using a 4mm allen head glued into one of the tire levers and doesn't last, so you need to carry a separate 4mm allen wrench or plan to use the tire lever to disassemble the tool so you can use that one.

I carry this one now. I bought it to replace the other one last year after I finally broke one of the tire levers. I really like it; it's more compact than the Hexus II and weighs a bit less, and still has all of the same tools. The weakest part is probably the chain-breaker, but it seems strong enough to handle the occasional roadside emergency.

The bike started life as a 2012 Motobecane Fantom Cross Pro, which came with some good components already. SRAM Rival partial group,
FSA crankset, and Mavic Aksium Race wheels. I've had good luck with this bike and it's got almost 2k miles on it, so I kept most of it, but not all.

Once I decided to make it my commuter bike, I started adding things.

For lights I picked up the Cygolite Hot shot rear light and use one of my MTB lights if needed for the front, a
Chinese knock-off CREE XM-L2 front light

For tires I went with the Panaracer RiBMo 700x32c based on feedback from users on here.

You can't go wrong with a Tubus Logo Evo Rear Rack and Ortlieb Back Roller Classics.


I wanted some extra gearing for those climbs along the way, so I went with the SRAM FORCE Rear Derailleur so I could run a SRAM PG-1050 11-32 Cassette.

Of course, I needed a new KMC X10SL chain for the new gear combo.

I picked up a new road bike and pulled the Ritchey Pro Streem Saddle and Ritchey Pro Biomax bars off of that bike and used them on my commuter, along with some new Lizard Skins DSP 3.2mm bar tape and some Soma Road Flares for added visibility.

For a little less weight and possible shock absorbtion, I threw in a Chinese knock off carbon seat post.

I also wanted something besides my regular riding shoes, so I opted for the Shimano Click'R PD-T700 pedals and
Shimano SH-CT40 Cycling Shoes
, which I love and highly recommend.

I also needed to adjust the fit so I picked up a Kalloy Uno 6 90mm stem because I've had great luck with them on other bikes.

And for added safety, I picked up two rolls of 3M Scotchcal Reflective Striping Tape in white and black, and added white stripes to the white frame and black stripes to the rims and the back of my helmet.

I usually find the Google maps estimate a bit generous - on a 25-minute estimate I might get 20 minutes, and ride 14-18mph on an upright hybrid. I know some people here on their road bikes ride faster.

Safety-wise, I actually would say your vest is even more important than lights. I personally prefer these straps. I've been using them for over 2 years. They light up like day, and don't overheat you in the summer like a full vest would while allowing you to layer multiple coats in the winter.

A nice 1000+lumen front light is another must - you want to not only be seen but in dark conditions to be able to see hazardous objects on the road, particularly a country road. This is the light I've been using for over 2 years (plus backup batteries to easily swap out), but anything bright will do. I prefer steady beam on my front light rather than having it blink - again for visibility.

For rear lights you (again) want something very bright and visible from far away, but that blinks. This is the one that I use, but again anything bright is good.

Good luck out there!

As long as it's not way too small or large for you, that's a good buy. I own a vintage road bicycle and enjoy it more than most modern bicycles I've ridden. That being said, my recommendations:

• Get a tune-up for sure, but don't paint it. It looks fine!
  
• Get some nice bar tape (perhaps cork?) and replace that nasty stuff
  
• Adjust your seat, it looks quite low; at the bottom of your pedal stroke your leg should be almost fully extended
  
• Since you have a quill stem, you can also easily drop your handlebars further down, or pull them further up probably
  
• Just as a word of precaution, you should invest in a nice pump with a gauge like this and check your tire pressure every few days (at least).
  
  Peugeots are definitely solid vintage road bicycles. I would have bought this if it were on my local Craigslist. As others have said, these are also great to convert to single speeds or fixies, but I'd keep it as a road bike. However if you wanted to sell it at a later date and you live near a college, it might be easier to sell it as a fixie ;).
  
  Congrats, enjoy the ride.

I like these ones from Amazon if you are going to go this route:
Bright Eyes

Basically the same LED and similar housing, but better QC, and much better attention to detail.

Everything from the packaging, to the waterproofing of the housing, to the included accessories, are worlds better than a similar cheap Chinese one I bought off I ebay. Plus, I feel much more confident with the battery. Some of those Chinese versions have had reports of the batteries catching fire while charging.

Also, it's Prime so you don't need to wait for it to ship from China, you can return it without hassle if you don't like it, it comes with a FREE tail light that is really nice, and it just has the overall appearance of a product that somebody actually cares about.

I think you should go into lights a little more. Many people make the mistake of just grabbing the cheapest lights, which aren't bright enough to help you actually see or stand out enough that motorists see you.

Most rear lights are fine, it is usually front lights that I find inadequate. I recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006QQX3C4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1368717055&sr=8-2&pi=SL75 but it does have a small battery you must find room to mount and on the brightest setting only lasts a few hours. If you keep it charged between commutes, it is perfect, though. I can clearly see the road and cars can clearly see my light. Before, I was using a 1-Watt AA battery powered one and it was ok, but I had a lot of close calls because motorists still couldn't see me until I was right on top of them. If you don't want to deal with mounting a battery and keeping it charged, I recommend using nothing weaker than a 1-Watt, but more will be better and however much you spend, it will be cheaper than a hospital bill.

Disc racks can work on non-disc brake wheels. I use a Blackburn EX-1 Disc Rack on my bike. My bike does not have the eyelets by the wheel hub for pannier racks, but strangely it does have the eyelets on the seat stay for them. I found this rack works very well on my bike.

For USB rechargeable lights, I use a Cygolite Metro 500 and a Cygolite Hotshot. Both lights are easily removable so you can take them with you when you leave your bike locked up. There are cheaper versions of the Cygolite Metro which are also quite good (300, 360, 400), but not quite as bright. The Metro 300 is probably enough light for most people, and is what I used first. The only reason I switched is because my girlfriend's bike needed a better headlight, so I used that as an excuse to upgrade mine and give her my old one. Currently the 360 is cheaper than the 300 on Amazon, and is brighter. So there's no reason to get the 300 right now.

For multi tool, I like the Topeak Hexus II. Someone else on Reddit recommended it to me months ago and I'm quite satisfied.

For a full time commuter, I recommend some puncture resistant tires. I use Continental Gatorskins with Mr Tuffy liners inside them. Haven't had a single flat in several months now. Having a flat on your way to work would really suck, especially in crappy winter weather.

I use Ortlieb Front Rollers on my rear rack, as I was worried the Back Rollers would be large enough to cause heel strike. The Front Rollers are very nice. I love how easy they are to put on and take off, plus they're quite rugged and keep everything dry. The Front Rollers are just barely large enough for a 15" laptop, though I can't roll the top down well with it in there.

The person overtaking is responsible for overtaking safely.

I ride on multi use trails, as well as in traffic. Every time, and I mean EVERY time I pass someone, be it on a bike, roller blades, or walking, they get a "DING" from my bell, or if they are wearing earphones, a friendly but firm "On your left!"

When I'm on the road, however, I use my air horn... Yes, I have an air horn on my bike. Best thing EVER! You use your bike pump to pressurize a bottle that sits in one of your water bottle cages, and there is a small tube that runs up to the actual horn on the bars. You press a button, and an ear piercing shriek comes out of the horn. One pressurization of the tank will be good for a good 30 second long blast, but many many more "normal" length toots.

This is similar to what I have. It even has a volume control of sorts. (It's a valve that limits the amount of air admitted to the horn, so you can mash the button, but it won't be ear splittingly loud, in case you want to use it to give people friendly "toot toots" on the trail.

For quasi-anonymity, would it be possible to not state where I go to school?

If so, I'm on my second year as a transfer student in animal science. I love animals and I love caring for and spending time with them, so this degree will allow me to be paid for doing what I love. Some possible career options would allow me to be able to work with animals and people, helping them to have a mutually beneficial relationship.

I walk every day to school because my bike lock rusted out and I don't trust that my lockless bike on campus would be there when I returned. I would enter for a lock for my bike so I can have either a few more minutes of study or sleep, depending on the day. Thank you for the contest. =)

If weight is not an issue, you should get the Kryptonite New York Lock. I have it and have never had an issue with it. It's pretty much as secure as you'll get with a bike lock, without resorting to incredibly huge, heavy, unwieldy solutions. I live in Philly too, which has a ton of bike theft.

This looks to be even thicker and more secure, but I can't tell from the picture how large it actually is.

For the most security, the lock should be small, but big enough to put through the frame and back wheel, while still having room to accommodate the front wheel (which you should take off and lock with the back wheel and frame, provided it's a quick-release wheel- if it's not a quick release, then get one of the cables or an extra, tiny u-lock to lock the front wheel to the frame).

Take some time to look up the most secure ways to lock a bike. It doesn't matter how long you've been riding for- if you're unfamiliar with how to securely lock up a bike, having a better lock won't mean much. How you lock it up, where you lock it up, and what you lock it to are all important considerations.

And just know that there's no perfect solution. If somebody comes along with an angle-grinder, your bike is getting stolen no matter how many locks you have on it. Exercise good judgement in how long you keep it locked up in one place (as in, don't just leave it out overnight in a high-theft area if you can avoid it). And even having a great lock won't prevent somebody from taking your seat, handlebars, headlight, reflectors, fender/mud guard, water bottle, or anything else that might be on your bike but not chained down.

I have been working on this over the past 2 years. This will be my 4th HvZ game using this rig. We normally have a game in the fall and then in the spring. I got the idea when the magstrike saved my bacon and I wanted to fix the small bladder issue. The speed of them was awesome but pumping it every time was a pain. I looked up some other mods and didn't see anything I liked. I decided I didn't want to the noise of an air compressor so I went with a large backpack mounted tank.

The magstrikes don't fire much stronger than a stock one. I shot them with a stock magstrike and matched them pretty close. Since basically its just a magstrike with a huge bladder, there wasn't much argument against it. I had the mods come personally over to check it out before hand. The fact that I continue to improve on it and make sure it's safe has earned me respect and I even have people referred to me for help to keep them within reasonable limits.

I've worked up a master part list for you with links of where to get most of it too:

---

Parts List

• 2 Magstrikes x $20 = $40
  
• Screws and Misc Parts = $20+
  
• Elastic = $2
  
• 8 Magstrike Mags = $32
  
• 3 Magstrike Mags = (received in a trade)
  
• 100 Whistler Darts = $15
  
  Subtotal: $109
  
  ---
  
  Clothing/Storage
  
  
• Carrier Vest - $17
  
• SAW Ammo Pouches x3 - $24
  
• M4 Magazine Pouch (fits the power bank) - $3
  
• Bike Tool Bag - $9
  
  Subtotal: $53
  
  ---
  
  Air Tank Parts - All fittings are 1/4" NPT
  
  
• Viair 1 Gallon Air Tank - $40
  
• Safety Release Valve - $7.37
  
• 1/4" Schrader Valve - $4.85
  
• Pressure Gauge - $5
  
• Viair Braided Air Hose - $13.80
  
• Elbow Pieces x3 = $12.51
  
• Regulator - $21
  
• Ball Port Valve - $8.50
  
• 45 Degree Elbow - $5.57
  
• 10Ft of Tubing - $2.40
  
• Nylon Push-to-Connect Adapter - $3.07
  
• Push-to-Connect Adapter x2 = $5
  
• Wye Adapter - $4.65
  
• Threaded 1/4" Push-To-Connect - $4.70
  
• Quick Disconnect Adapter - $5
  
• Baby carrier (Pawn Shop) - $15
  
  Subtotal: $158.45
  
  ---
  
  Lighting
  
  
• 226 Lumen Maglight - $25
  
• Wide Angle Lens (for bike light) - $5
  
• 1200 Lumen Bike Light - $20
  
• 10000 mAh USB Power Bank - $33
  
  Subtotal: $83
  
  ---
  
  Tools
  
  
• Air Compressor - $60 (Got a deal on it)
  
  Subtotal: $60
  
  ---
  
  Unknown Prices/Misc Pieces
  
  
• Wood
  
• Brackets
  
• Screws
  
• Foam
  
• Epoxy Putty
  
  Estimated Subtotal: $10
  
  ----
  
  Grand Total: $473.45
  
  This includes all the parts currently being used in the mod. It doesn't count the two magstrikes I broke/parted out from experiments, other gun parts, extra fittings and all my tools I purchased to build the stuff. Most of this was broken up into small purchases over the past 2 years. $5 fitting here. $50 order there. I also purchased mostly things I could use outside of just HvZ like the bike light, ammo pouches, etc so it's not all wasted on nerf stuff.

I have a set of Shimano PD-A530 on my Salsa Vaya that I use daily for commuting (platform) and longer rides on the weekend (SPD).

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376967521&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+pd-a530

I really like them, they have not failed me after 2000 miles and are a solid feeling pedal. Even though they do not have the more 'spikey' surface on the platform side I have yet to have my feet slide off even in the wet. It may be a smidge out of your price range, but honestly it was for me as well, but I do not regret it one bit!

The big thing to keep in mind with dual pedals is will you be able to easily flip them to the side you need. With the A530s the SPD side is always on top in it's equilibrium position which means I don't have to look down to find the side I want. I just reach for the pedal with my foot and either clip in, or flip the back of it forward to get to the platform side.

Personally I think the design of the pedals you are looking at would make it really hard to determine which side of the pedal you are on. But, just like everything if you get used to it I'm sure it will work great. It all comes down to personal preference I guess!

Just be careful and dont get a beach cruiser!!!!! id recommend a hybrid bike like a trek 7.1 and put a rack on it for panniers so you can carry your stuff. Also if you are over weight i highly recommend a brooks saddle i have a b17 and its wonderful on my ass. Also bike shorts 4.3 miles aint long, but it will make your life much easier. A cheap walmart bike will break often and be expensive to repair. Refer over to r/bicycling to learn more if you are strapped for cash id go with this bike its a good all rounder and bikesdirect is a good company, or a trek and the seat brooks b17 bike rack panniers shorts
Once again do not buy a bike from walmart it will make you hate bicycling. Oh also rules and sheldon brown a repository of all things cycling
Best of luck to you, safe riding and Dont buy this!!

After quite a lot of research, I've taken the plunge on buying a road bike for general use after not riding a bike in like a decade... Decided to splurge on a B'Twin Triban 500SE (shop link that'll probably inevitably break), rather than deal with the hassle of trying to find a second hand bike locally and deal with potential repairs etc. And of course for my own personal vanity of liking minimalist designs, the bike's look is perfect for me, I'm not the biggest fan of the more traditionally bright decals etc.

It'll be the first nice bike I've had as well, I had a massive mountain bike thing when I was a teenager but never used it off-road, considering I'm a slender fellow it weighed a tonne and wasn't much fun to use. It'll be interesting to see what a light road bike will be like. Can't wait for it to arrive! :D

I've been trying to make sure I don't forget any of the essential accessories I'll be needing. So far I've ordered these:

• Multi-tool
  
• Puncture Repair Kit
  
• Mini-pump
  
• D-Lock with a cable loop
  
• Helmet
  
  Things I need to look at:
  
  
• Lights Bought a NiteRider Solas and Lezyne Super Drive XL for lights.
  
• Oil
  
• Cover (since there's barely any room in my flat, might have to sort something out if I'm not using the bike often in Winter or something).
  
  Is there any other essentials I'm missing? I imagine there might be a lot of tiny things that I'm missing, stuff like reflectors.
  
  Also recommendations for the stuff I'm missing will be appreciated, I just bought some good rated stuff off Amazon, no idea if the reviews are completely wrong, I know they can be for some products I'm more versed in.
  
  Also any tips for someone's first ride in a while, and especially first time on drop handles? I've done some basic research on how to hold the bars and use the Microshift gear levers, but I'm sure there's little tips that might help.
  

Get a pair of bar-ends. They even have ones that "convert" a flat bar to drops. But even traditional bar-ends will provide you with some additional variety of hand positions which will help alleviate hand/arm discomfort on longer rides. This is an inexpensive solution that may effectively alleviate your comfort problems.

As for any further upgrades, I would not bother with this bike. Keep it well maintained, and sell it and buy another used bike that may be better suited to the kind of riding you want to get into.

It's never worth it to upgrade a lower-tier bike such as yours (and actually most hybrids). It's barely worth it to upgrade even mid-tier bikes, but not all decisions are economical when you're comfortable on a particular bike or have an emotional attachment to it - upgrades in the "few hundred dollars" category might be worth it, and wheel upgrades are definitely worth it, as you can bring a good wheel to your next bike. Upper tier bikes rarely need upgrades, except maybe a wheelset.

I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.

Things for the road

Frame/ Mini pump

Saddle Bag

Patch Kit

Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)

Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)

Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)

Bike Lights

Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)

Bottles of choice

Sunglasses of choice

Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)

Cycling compter

U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.

Things for home

Floor pump

Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)

Wet and Dry chain lube

Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)

Hi-Vis Jacket

Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking

Jersey

Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts

Windbreaker

Leg Warmers

Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)

EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.

I've got each of these, they're inexpensive and solid lights. I spent over a month researching lights online and found these ones were the best balance of price, performance, and reliability.

This headlight is really nice, comes with a rechargeable battery, and is VERY bright. I would also suggest getting one of these lense replacements so that the beam projects in a wider arc.

This tail light is pretty fantastic as well.

I've got two pairs of those, they work great and are less than a third what competing products go for. I've had them for over six months now and haven't had any issues.

Yeah sorry I forgot about your no brazon / p-clamp requirement.

They have a lot of options. I chose the Explorer rack which was much lighter than my other two rear racks.

I am considering buying one of their Beamracks for my road bike without the side frame add-on so I can use my bag for weekend rides as well.

Some other things I considered were not as functional, were more expensive, but looked much better. They don't exactly match your requirements, but maybe they'll give you some ideas.

• Carradice Camper with the Bagman Expedition Support which meets your requirements, except for price.
  
• Sackville Saddlesacks
  
• Minnehaha Saddle Bag
  
  The one I had before the Topeak one was a Racktime Wall-it with a Snapit rack. I really like it, but I just needed to carry more stuff. The Snapit system is nice and works with the Ortlieb trunk bag as well. I got it really cheap on Sierra Trading post. You can even buy the Snapit adapter by itself to make the system work with any bag you like.
  
  Hope you find something that works well for you.

When you say "Trails", do you mean singletrack loose dirt bike paths, or more along the lines of fire roads, hard packed dirt with a bit of gravel?

If the latter, I think your "city tires" will probably do just fine. Even if they're full slicks (which I suspect they aren't), simply letting some air out of the tires will provide the control you need.

On the tire's sidewall you'll find a max PSI rating. For the road keep it near it's maximum for rolling efficiency. Probably anywhere from 60 to 85 depending on the tire they put on. Lower it to 45-50 for dirt. You'll be surprised at how well the bike handles.

But ChimpStyles, you ask, What if I want to ride 5 miles on the road to the trailhead and back? Won't that suck with the tires deflated? Get yourself a portable pump replies the ever stylish ChimpStyles. You'll want one as part of your toolkit if you get a flat. I like the Topeak Road Morph G. Ask your local bike shop for help if you don't know how to change a flat, I'm sure they'll help.
Thanks ChimpStyles, you're the best! cries monkeyfunky.

And they all lived happily ever after.

If you are going to be riding some more serious / technical / whateveryouwanttocallit trails, then some knobby, dirt-specific tires would be of benefit. In that case, if you can afford a second wheelset I would do that. Tell the shop you what you want 'em for and they'll help you pick out a good set. That will be way cheaper than buying a different bike. You can get a good wheelset with tires for ~300-400 vs. 600-tothemoon for a decent mountain bike.

Have fun on the bike.

Hey nice bike! If I were you I would add a saddle bag with some tubes, tire levers, and maybe get a small pump, and since you're just commuting the whole "it ain't aero" thing doesn't really fucking matter in my opinion ;) I would recommend this and these and this. Also read up on sites like Sheldon Brown for basics, and also I would recommend the GCN youtube channel for repair and maintenance. Also as far as locks go get a U-lock like this for most security and use this locking method. Have fun and stay safe, and feel free to ask any questions to me or any of the other people on this sub!

I recently bought a Giant Escape 2 for commuting from Arlington to Downtown DC and it works great, I got the bike and lock for less than $500. If you want to look at bikes, Papillion Bicycles is the local Giant dealer and Spokes etc. is one of the local Trek and Specialized dealers. You can go and ride the bikes and see what you like, but at that price point almost all the hybrid bikes are the same.

After that I got a Topeak rear rack with this Trunk Bag and it works great, fits my computer, clothes and even lunch. It has side panniers that fold out. I would recommend that you get some cygolite front and rear lights from amazon as well.

If you're serious about commuting, something along these lines is your best bet.

[Here is my setup] (http://imgur.com/gallery/IBw0q)

Edit: Word

If you're using tubs... or tubeless (can't remember which), I can't help you much from experience, but I can tell you Lezyne makes some beautiful and well-engineered products and you'll need a shock pump to seat the tubular or tubeless tires onto the rim, so I would feel confident recommending this Lezyne floor pump.

On the other hand, if you run clinchers, I've had good luck with this Topeak Joe Blow pump, rated for up to something like 160psi

Also, you likely already know, but just in case, here's /r/triathlon

I recently picked up some SPD pedals (these specifically) and absolutely love them. Two things to make sure of from my experience:

1. Make sure you get shoes that fit you perfectly. It took me a few different types of shoes and a few sizes to find the ones that work well for me.
   
   
2. PRACTICE CLIPPING AND UNCLIPPING BEFORE YOU GO RIDING! It'll only take a few embarassing tip overs to figure out what you're doing, but you can save those by spending 10-15 minutes holding on to a fence post or something repeatedly clipping in and out.
   
   I love them, and I find that I'm more willing to take on sketchier terrain. Plus I feel like I could jump over a house now. So there's that.

You don't really say where you are and what type of riding you'll be doing but here's my $0.02 on what I've done and would recommend to others.


Clipless Pedals + Shoes --> These are the newer version to what I use on my roadie, but if you want the versatility of the dual clipless or the single+flat on the other side, you can do that. Or you can go with full-road-cleated pedals, of course. For the shoes, try some out at a store, the internet hasn't replaced this step.

Saddle bag -- I err.. duct taped a tube to my seatpost and carry the rest of my crap in my jersey pockets.

Water bottle -- If you ride in extreme weather, consider an insulated bottle, it's sooo nice to fill with iced water and have cool water to dring on 100F+ days

Pump -- I have one that came with a bracket to bolt under the water cages, maybe look for one like it (can't remember the brand of mine)

??? (I have no idea what else I will need) -- you'll need/want:

• a multitool to adjust or fix anything that can come up. I have the park multitool and I don't really recommend it as there's probably better tools out there for road bike use, just make sure that it has a chain tool included.
  
• Tire levers, if they aren't included somehow in the multitool. I always carry one extra so I can have 3 leverage points if I get a flat.
  
• With a new bike you might need bottle cages.
  
• Get some chain lube if you don't have any.
  
• Depending on chain brand, a power link or quick link
  
• For patch kits, the park one is pretty much OK but do stay away from the self-adhering ones, they're garbage!

Tools. Most people don't have proper bike tools, so that would be a great surprise. You can either get a decent multi-tool (get one with a chain-breaker and tire wrenches) or a variety of Park Tools. Here are some Park Tools that I find invaluable: 3-way hex, chain cleaning tools, pedal wrench, and/or a chain whip

This bar tape is amazing 3mm Fizik performance. Tape should be replaced semi-regularly, but most people don't, so it would be a great surprise gift. Black looks good on almost every bike.

I built up a Disc Trucker last spring. I stuck closely to Surly's build in the gearing department as it mainly is a touring bike. I went 9-speed because the chains are a touch more durable and when you get into 10-speed, Shimano's road and mountain offerings start having some incompatibilities. With a 9-speed drivetrain, you can mix and match road and mountain to whatever extent you like.

I actually have two different gearing setups. One for true touring with a mountain rear derailleur and an 11-34 cassette and another with a road rear derailleur and a 12-26 cassette.

Here's relevant parts off my list:

|Part|Model|Other|Notes|
|:---|:---|:---|:---|
|Crankset|Shimano Deore M590|175mm arm length|Has the trekking gearing 26/36/48 and Hollowtech because why not.|
|Rear cassette|SRAM PG-950|11-34 for touring, 12-26 for commuting|Yes, as far as casettes go, it's a heavy bugger. But when we're talking about LHTs, who really cares overly much about weight? As a side note, you'd need a mountain derailleur to use the 11-34, but you'd be just fine with the 12-26 for your 105.|
|Shifters|Shimano Dura-Ace 9-speed bar-end||If you're using this for touring, I'd recommend the bar ends. Otherwise, get whatever brifters you like, use a couple of Travel Agents and get some V-brakes.|
|Brake levers|Tektro RL520|Long-pull|Those guys are long pull, so they work with V-brakes and mountain-pull disc brakes. Ergonomics are decent, if a tad too pointy for my tastes.|
|Handlebars|Salsa Bell Lap||No longer being produced, sadly.|
|Saddle|Brooks Champion Flyer||I've put thousands and thousands of miles on this saddle. Love it. It's a little heavy if you're doing light commuting. For daily commuting and touring, though, it's hard to beat.|
|Pedals|Shimano M520||They're pretty low on the totem pole as far as component level, but I've had nary a problem with multiple sets. Clipless that won't break the bank.|
|Chain|SRAM PC-951||It's a cheaper chain more than adequate for commuting and touring.|

All the drivetrain stuff is 9-speed, but you can find the 10-speed equivalents rather easily. In your case, if you're not setting off across the country or across the world on your LHT, I'd say go for a set of brifters. If you want to go 9-speed, I'd look for an older set of Ultegra shifters. For 10-speed, I'd keep it 105 or above...or Rival or above for SRAM. SRAM has a lot more tactile feedback on the shifts while Shimano tends to be smoother. I prefer SRAM, but to each their own. Bar-ends are great and low maintenance, but not being able to shift from the hoods can get a little annoying after a while.

As to online retailers, a lot of parts can be had reasonably from Amazon. I also use Jenson USA. They ship fast, have free shipping on orders above $50, and price match on parts. I use Nashbar occasionally, but their shipping department is woefully slow and I avoid buying from them whenever possible.

Sure! Honestly, I don't see any headlights that I'd buy but the Cygilite 2W is pretty good. For a headlight you could do really well getting a high lumen light from Amazon. I use a rechargeable one that I've used for over a year now and it works great. Similar to this one.

I realized I need to buy some stuff to maintain my bike, and was looking for some input on what to get for the 'essentials'.

I need a repair stand. I was thinking about this model from Amazon. Seems to have decent reviews. I have a step-through bike so I guess I just hold it by the seat post and that's fine?

I also wanted to adjust my saddle position and the seat post length, do I need a torque wrench for this? I found this one. Should I just get a fixed torque one? Or just use normal hex keys and save my money?

For cleaning the chain and drive train, is it worth getting one of those special chain cleaning tools and cycle specific degreaser or can I just use "LA's Totally Awesome" cleaner and degreaser from Dollar Tree and a couple of floor scrub brushes held together? The Dollar Tree product I have already because I use it diluted as a general cleaner. At full strength it can soften certain plastics and remove some paints so it's pretty strong.

Is there any other stuff that I'm missing that I need for basic maintenance that I'm missing?

Everyone has a favorite chain lube. I use Finish Line. Honestly, it doesn't make too much difference which lube you use, as long as it's one specially formulated for chains. Some are designed for wet conditions, which is good for some people.

For cleaning, pick up some automotive degreaser. Bike-specific degreaser is expensive and isn't really much better.

To clean the chain, you can usually just use a rag and some degreaser. A chain cleaning tool (the ones with three internal brushes) is handy, but not required. Always lube after cleaning, which should be done every 100-200 miles.

If you really want a clean drivetrain, I highly recommend an ultrasonic cleaner. Very effective at cleaning the cassette and chain, with almost no effort. Just remember to relube the chain really, really well after cleaning it.

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

I recommend getting a U-Lock along with an extension cable. You want to put the U-Lock somewhere through the rear triangle like this.
This locks the rear wheel and the frame. Then you want to loop the extension cable through the U-Lock and put it through your front tire so it is also secure. Kryptonite, Abus, and On Guard are all good lock brands. Something like this lock would work fine, but there are more expensive options if you want to be more secure. I personally use this lock. All locks are about buying time because an angle grinder can cut through any lock in a few minutes. I suggest parking it to something secure, something public, and well-lit. Also, make sure to register your bike through TAPS because if someone steals your bike or puts a lock on it, they won't be able to help you. Good luck!

I got 2 of these lights: http://www.amazon.com/Best-Rechargeable-Lumen-Bicycle-Light/dp/B00GJZ015Y/

Slightly more expensive at $40 each, but is one of the best reviewed "Magicshine 808 clones" on Amazon and the seller apparently has some of the best customer service (I haven't had to deal with issues yet, but they did send me 2 wide angle lens for FREE after I emailed them).

Real world test is probably nowhere up to claimed 1.2k lumens, closer to 800-900, which is enough for me now. I might grab another one so I can mount 2 on the handlebars side by side.

Note that many of the higher 1.6-3k lumen lights, even the $100-200 MagicShines, have heat issues when running on high for long periods of time, which could affect component lifespan.

Biking in the rain isn't very fun. It's not too bad, but your tires can slip on some surfaces (usually metal). I had to cross some railroad tracks on my route and the tires could easily slip on the metal surfaces.

Also, in the winter, you'll want to wear gloves, otherwise your hands will get pretty cold from the cold air.

Develop a system to make sure you packed your clothes. I've left a few times for work without packing a shirt.

You may want to invest in a bike horn. I have one like this. It helps to alert cars to your presence, but will probably scare pedestrians, so be careful.

Also, you'll probably want to wear sunglasses, otherwise debris can get into your eyes.

I'd invest in a decent quality road bike. Mine was a $1000 Trek, but that's maybe a slight step above entry level. A good quality bike will cost you over $500. Road bikes are so nice. I was able to consistently go around 20 MPH. with bursts up to 25-30. I actually used to take a lane in rush hour traffic when I lived in my downtown area. I could keep up with the stop and go traffic and it was a great workout.

Wear a helmet!

Get lights, especially for winter when it gets dark earlier.

Visibility is key when riding near traffic, get reflective tape for your bike and reflective ankle bands so cars can see you.

Bike defensively. Worse accident I got in was when I was going by an alley and a car came out of the alley and didn't see me. Luckily I saw them so was able to avoid too much damage.

Either learn to do the maintenance yourself or take your bike into a shop to get maintenance every year or so.

Anyway, good luck! I enjoyed biking into work. I need to get back into it, but it takes good self discipline to wake up early enough to bike into work. I was lucky enough to have a locker room and showers at my workplace, and a bike locker. I really have no excuses other than the fact that driving is so much easier.

I love my Topeak Alien II multitool since it has every tool I and other cyclists need. I've helped out a number of people on the bike paths who've had mechanical issues with this thing, as well as used it to do my own on the fly maintenance. If that has too many tools, go with the 19 tool Crank Brothers multi tool.

You also need a patch kit with glue (the stick on ones are garbage), one or two spare tubes, tire levers (get Pedro's since they can handle any tire without breaking), and either a mini pump or CO2 cartridge canister/ CO2 cartridge. I will say that I don't carry the latter items on me when I'm commuting, if only because I invested in some of the most puncture resistant tires out there so I almost never get a flat. On road and mtb rides, I always have these items.

To clean my various bikes' chains and gears, I have two wire brushes, some spray on engine degreaser, a rag, and all weather bike lube. I also keep a tube of marine grease on hand which helps with involved tasks (hub servicing, etc) and swapping out some parts.

GCN on YouTube is the best resource for bike maintenance if you ride a road bike. For help with hybrids and mountain bikes, check out ParkTool and GMBN on YouTube.

Pedal: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000WYAENC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395772017&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

There are other options, but those are the most common, they're cheap, and use the same cleats as the bikes at spin class. You can always upgrade later if you find a reason not to like these; pedals usually come with cleats and most or all MTB cleats use the same 2 bolt mount so they will work with your MTB shoes.

Shoes: go to LBS and try some on. All MTB shoes should be good for walking, but different brands fit differently. Or order online from somewhere with free returns in case they don't fit; the Shimano M-088 are a good start, I love the ratchet buckle.

I recommend checking out /r/bikecommuting. Although it sounds like you have already been commuting by bike, so I apologize if you already know what I'm saying. I'm assuming because you are asking about what you wear for winter cycling that you do not regularly commute in winter/have a short commute.

You will need to get lights for commuting, especially as winter approaches (assuming that you are in the Northern hemisphere). I have the Cygolite Expillion 350 and the PDW Danger Zone. I once read that a blinking rear light is good for being noticed but a solid light is good for driver depth perception, so my helmet has a red light in back that I keep solid in the evening/night. I will eventually get a second real rear light.

As for clothing - what is your climate going to look like this winter? I was commuting in upstate New York and wore generic winter running tights, wool socks, UA coldgear shirt, a down vest, gloves, and a thin scarf that went around my neck and over my head under my helmet. When I wore thick wool mittens over my gloves, I was toasty in that down to 14 F. I never got goggles/glasses, but they would have been nice when it sleeted.

I don't have any cycling specific wear. I re-purpose what I already have or buy things that will work for multiple activities.

I wash my bike (or at least rinse it off) after any ride where salt from the road was kicked up. Last winter I had a toothbrush and would gently scrub my derailleurs to get off the ice and would use a damp rag to wipe it down. Again, I was biking in upstate New York. I have since moved south and don't yet know what this winter will mean for biking. I'm assuming a lot less ice and a lot less salt.

This is the current "best headlight for the money" winner at Amazon :

4 Mode 1200 Lumen CREE XML T6 Bulb LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Lamp Flashlight Light Headlamp

It doesn't use USB for charging, but that's kind of a good thing as its charger puts out more power than a standard USB port does so it charges faster.

As for a tail light, the winners aren't so clear, but so far I'm fond of the $5 Planet Bike Super Flash clones at DX.com -- get two of those and I'm set.

I wouldn't get a brooks. They are pricey because they become super comfortable after some use, but the downside is that they are theft magnets. If you get one, lock your saddle with a cable, or take it in with you, but these things go missing on my campus all the time. I'd just ride the stock for a while, when you want to upgrade, go into your LBS and nab one from them.




As for locks, U-lock+Cable in conjunction will be best. If you pick one, do a u-lock. Kryptonite is well-recommended. They have a few models:

The New York is the big boy, nigh indestructible lock. But probably not necessary for a windsor the hour.

Here's what I use, but I sort of regret it. It feels cheaper (because it was cheaper) than other kryptonite locks I've used. The lock itself is fine, but I have trouble with my key after a few months of use (have to jiggle it around for a bit for it to disengage). If you're on a campus or in a smaller town, it'd be fine.

Just ordered this. My buddy has one and it's brilliant. Super light and small (smallness is actually a benefit as far as security). Can fit in your back pocket.

Also: http://sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

People downvote me because I'm a little weird, but some of these are good, they have the capacity of being clipless, but still having the option of using regular shoes if you feel like it. If you want to save the weight and use only clipless these are good, they're simple clipless pedals, both are rather inexpensive, and if you feel like spending more money

I've had some close calls. You can see in the stats that isn't particularly safe but I enjoy it and do my best. I got one of these for my bike and it helps to blast cabs and j walkers. much more effective than a bell, which I still use for passing etc

To narrow down your search: I purchased a Camelbak MULE last April along with a Topeak Alien II multitool. Both of these items were fantastic purchases, and I'm so glad I bought them.

If you're interested in gloves, I bought a pair of Fox Inclines a while back and am happy with that purchase as well.

Congratulations on your new bike! You are going to enjoy it.

Personally i like the M-530s better. Especially for a first time clipless rider. While they may be a tad heavier, they have more of a platform. This comes in super handy in many "oh shit" scenarios and in regular use. The 520s can flip over easily when trying to clip in, and especially getting started in a technical section or an uphill, that can be frustrating as hell. The outer platform of the 530s prevents them from rolling or flipping. Also if you, cant quite get your feet clipped in, at least you have something to stand on until you get a chance to clip in correctly. Also, when you just want to hop on your bike to go to the store, or test ride some new tweaks, in your regular shoes, you actually have a pedal and not a nubbin under your foot. Lastly, if you have weak shoes that dont have a stiff sole, you might feel a "hotspot" on your foot where the small 520 is. I had cheap flexy spd shoes and found my feet to be pretty sore after long descents.

The 520s are great but i definetely like the 530s way better for all around use. Espcially since they are under 40 bucks on amazon right now.

good luck!

I just ordered this bright eyes one:
http://www.amazon.com/Bright-Eyes-Rechargeable-Headlight-taillight/dp/B00GJZ015Y?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

A guy I work with has one and loves it. The bright eyes brand is supposed to have much better warranty and support than other similar knockoff brands. The battery on it is supposed to be better as well.

Only thing is he said you probably need a diffuser as the beam is pretty narrow as it. His came with a diffuser, even though the listing doesn't say it does. I'm waiting for mine to be delivered before I order one.

I do all my riding at night but mostly paved trails. I did a ton of research before buying my lights.

Front:

MagicShine 872 - This is what I use. For Price per lumens you can't beat this thing. It's crazy bright. I have it on 50% most of the time sometimes lower. For distance it's about the same at 50% or 100%. 100% is just much brighter immediately in front of you.


I would actually recommend the MagicShine 808 though. It's a little cheaper and all my research showed the side by side comparisons the 808 actually throws light out a little father. It's just not as bright in the first 25 feet. Since I leave my 872 on 50% it wouldn't matter and I would get a little more distance.

http://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-MJ-808U-Bicycle-Improved-1100-Lumen/dp/B009GSLUR4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409954087&sr=8-3&keywords=magicshine+872

Both have an external battery pack and don't use a USB charger though. Which for some people is a problem. I don't mind strapping the battery to my top tube.

Edit to add: Neither of these has a flashing or pulse feature. They do have an adjustable brightness level though. 872 has last for roughly 2 hours for me at 100%. The power buttons illuminate to give you a rough estimate of battery level. After a 2 hour ride with it on 50% the entire time it will show that it has more then 50% left. They say it will last 3 hours at 100% but reviews I read said it last 2 1/2 at 100% then dropped its self down the 75% then 50 > so on until it completely died at 6 hours. I've not actually done that myself though.

Rear:

I use Light & Motion Vis 180 - This thing is ridiculously bright and I love it. Full 180 degrees of visibility from the amber lights. It's very expensive though for a taillight.

http://www.amazon.com/Light-Motion-Tail-Silver-Moon/dp/B00LH1W9AU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=light+and+motion+180

My research pointed to Cygolite Hotshot 2W USB being the best bang for your buck. I would have bought this but my LBS didn't carry it and I needed something that night for riding so i got the Light and Motion.

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409954733&sr=8-1&keywords=Cygolite+Hotshot+2W+USB


Hope this helps.

your price is just about right for shoes + pedals. Most new bikes dont come with a pedal so unless you know otherwise about the bike you are getting you will probably need to purchase a pedal and if you are purchasing pedals you might as well purchase shoes :] right? if you give a cyclist a bike, hell want pedals, if you give him pedals, hell want shoes... :P Also im a big fan of just splurging on what you can and enjoying the full package. This is all dependent though on your budget.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO

this is the pedal i ride on my commuter. its a good dual duty pedal and the platform feels solid. Its a bit bulky so i dont ride it on my nice bike but if your planning on clipping in only sometimes i would suggest this one. If you are planning on riding clipped a majority then i would suggest a pedal without the platform.

Here are the differences in clips. (i think they are called the cleat but i am going to continue calling them the clips)

road clip

road clip shoes notice these have 3 holes where you screw the clip into the shoe in a triangular pattern.

spd clip

spd clip on shoe

notice the spd clip is smaller and recessed. This makes the shoe feel more like a normal shoe and you dont notice the clip as much

road v spd, road on left

road v spd clips and pedals

As a late disclaimer, I have never used road clips but this is the information i gathered in the process of purchasing. Road clipped shoes also usually have a stiffer sole, i believe.

As far as your question goes. I cant imagine long rides anymore without being clipped into the bike. You feel and are more attached to your machine. Your pedaling will most likely be more fluid, you can pull the pedals on the upstroke, your feet wont pop off the pedals on hard shifts letting you pedal through the shifts (something i couldnt do so well without clipless), and you have to learn to trust your bike because your stuck in it :]

That said, I did ride without clipless shoes for quite a while and didnt have any problems but if you asked me to go back now i wouldnt do it. I think if you cant swing a set of shoes and pedals right now, you wouldnt die because of it, but i would suggest investing in them if you are looking to be more serious about riding.

I hope this helps your decision and doesnt make things even more confusing :P

heres my setup for reference.

shoes $100

pedals $70

if your not sure how to use them. You slide the front of the clip in and then start pedaling and push the back of the clip in and it will click in. To get out you twist your ankle away from the bike and the clip will pop out. After i get my pedals i always loosen the spring on the pedal to the loosest setting, then tighten to preference. Looser settings will allow you to still twist your foot side to side while clipped in. Also i think spd clips will give you more side to side play than a road clip.

EDIT: i changes the road clip picture, it was a bit confusing before

The conversion isn't worth it, but it's a good deal for the bike anyway, so I would just get it and ride it as is to get used to shifting while you save up for a proper road bike. If you're really set on mounting drops, I'd go with something like these. They're drops that fit like standard MTB bar-ends. I would consider getting more narrow flat bars in conjunction with them, but it's not a big deal.

I've built lights, modded lights and generally tinkered with them since the generator/bulb days, but these days I just have a super-bright Chinese flashlight like this, a clamp to hold that to the bars and a lens to scatter the light in front. Bright enough to soften paint, cheap enough to lose (mostly) and rechargable. Probably not quite enough for serious off-road riding, but easily as bright as a good small motorbike light.

The other bike has one of these though with higher output than in the ad - even cheaper, AAA batteries, quite bright.

I have one just like that from Amazon. It's definitely not really 1800 lumens, but you also definitely don't need 1800 lumens. The build quality is about what you'd expect for that price, but it does work and is bright. If you get it, you'll want to find a difuser like this for it so you don't get a super-bright spot and no spill. I've ordered one but it's not here yet.

For tail lights, check out my blog post on the subject - last year I reviewed about a dozen tail lights and posted my recommendations. Rechargeable rear lights cost a bit more, but you save a lot more long-term on the battery costs. I'm working on a front lights review but it's taking a while. (Anyone in Oregon have an integrating sphere I can borrow? That's the hold up!)

Naiveté.

Moved from a suburb (where I could have left the bike unlocked in the back of a truck for 2 hours without a worry in the world) to a city for work. Brought the Giant Escape 2 my Dad had given to me, but only had a cheap cable lock and hadn't been given access to my work's bike cage yet.

3rd day of training, my start group and I were headed to happy hour. I walked outside and the bike was gone from the rack outside the office.

I was able to look at the security footage; some dude literally walked up, cut the lock discreetly, and walked away like it was his.

Filed a police report, and went to happy hour. Then I bought the Escape 3 and a Kryptonite U-lock and didn't bring the bike to work until I had bike cage access.

I have a version of this wrench. Mine I got from Nashbar and it's Nashbar branded, but it's the same wrench. Its been a lifesaver, one of the best thing's I've bought tool wise.

https://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8

Depending on your location and school, having a gun in your dorm may not be illegal, but merely against the university rules.

If you are going to leave the firearm in your car, I suggest you disassemble it and take the complete upper (slide, barrel and recoil spring assembly) with you. Those components are not considered a firearm, and it leaves the receiver in your vehicle much less valuable a target for theft.

As for securing it in your vehicle, cheapest and most effective option is running a quality U-lock through the mag well and attaching it to a car seat frame (leave it underneath the seat).

This is a good U-lock:

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417384536&sr=8-2&keywords=u+lock

I am wrong and you are right, but the market is still dominated primarily by two types: SPD and SPD-SL. OP, I still recommend you do your own google research and LBS research because everyone has different preferences on pedals and cleats. I ride SPD on my road bikes, yet these are considered mountain bike pedals. Talk to someone at your LBS. As far as cost (and the reason I ride SPD), these are some of the most affordable/cost effective pedals on the market. If you are new to clipping in, you can get nice mountain bike style shoes that will allow you to walk around comfortably also. Also, I apologize, I didn't intend to sound condescending, but I do think a google search will give you more info faster than reddit.

Anything mid-range is fine. Ultimately, unless you want to lug a 20lb chain around, any sort of U-Lock or mid-range chain lock is sufficient for temporary lock-ups.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496868581&sr=8-3&keywords=kryptonite+u-lock

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUCSV7C/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00PUCSV7C&pd_rd_r=FZPWAHQ8MTTBST4PJ2P0&pd_rd_w=ngc6h&pd_rd_wg=RU5PQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=C0QCXJ2M8NZ33CV8HY47&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop

I've used both of the above at places like Bradford Beach, restaurants downtown, and Bay View on pretty nice bikes without ever having a problem. Make sure you lock up your front wheel as well, I see a ton of pretty average bikes sitting there without front wheels cuz somebody just used the quick-release and walked off with it.

That's awesome! You're definitely free to come by shop hours and ask advice and use the tools there. We've got all the bike tools you'd need for sure.

I'm sure if you post the picture on our Facebook page you'd get lots of helpful suggestions. To start you off, I'll recommend an Airzound horn. They're ridiculously loud and refillable with your bike pump.

I got a couple of cheap Bright Eyes Headlamps off Amazon. They're not the best head-lamps in the world, but more than good enough for riding, and the price is right.

Night-riding is the best way to beat the heat, and also gives you a nice perspective on the trails that you ride. I really like it - it kind of strips away a lot of distractions, and leaves just you and the trail.

It keeps me riding through Australian summer, and through the heat in Houston.

> Are there any other PCBs that have hotswappable sockets? (That isn't the GK64 because I don't like the non-standard stagger, ortho is fine but a completely new stagger that isn't used on any other keyboard.

Bare pcbs? I know lfkeyboards has a few now. Pricey but unique.

> Can I buy any 60% keyboard case for the XD75RE? I want to see if I can get a wooden case. The reason why I am asking this is because on the product page it says that it's possible to use any GH60 case with the pcb in using their shim conditions and I don't know what that means.

Technically it has the mount points but getting it in there is a clusterfuck that results in either a wobbly board or having to shim and cut switches. IMO its way too much work and you are much better off going with a case designed for the board.

> I want to have the layout that has the longer spacebar keys but this is the only plate that I found: https://kprepublic.com/collections/xd75re/products/stainless-steel-plate-for-xd75re-60-custom-keyboard-mechanical-keyboard-plate-support-xd75re and I'm pretty sure that this is only for the only 1u layout. Is there another plate available that I haven't found yet?

What do you mean longer spacebar? Like 6.25? Not going to happen with this grid layout. Some people use point of sale style keycaps as spacebars which is one 2u or 3u keycap that occupies multiple switches. It obviously makes it harder to press because you have resistance of multiple switches.

> Will this keycap set be fine for the XD75RE? https://novelkeys.xyz/products/blue-grey-xda-keycap-set If not, can you recommend a different keycap set for it?

If you are ok with legends not matching for modifiers its ok. Otherwise seek out ortho specific sets and build on them with something like a numpad or blanks.

> What kind of cable does the XD75RE need? It doesn't specify it on the product page.

mini usb

> Do I need stabilizers if I find a plate for the longer spacebar layout? If so will a standard cherry stabilizer kit cover it? And is this lube fine for stabilizers? (I will probably buy it anyways for future builds) https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B002L5UL92

XD75re doesnt use stabilizers.

> Is there anything I'm missing? I already know I need a case, plate, pcb, stabilizers (if necessary), lube for stabilizers, switches (I already have a bunch of loose switches), keycaps, and a cable? Sorry if this was really long, this is my first time buying custom parts and I don't want to mess it up.

Make sure the switches are all new and have never been previously soldered because that can harm the sockets.

As for a headlight, I have one like this. It's extremely bright and has three settings: high, low, blinking. I feel extremely comfortable with this on my bike and it lasts forever. I also opted for the wide angle lens that I think works great for riding on roads as it doesn't shine directly into the eyes of vehicle drivers.

For a taillight, I have this one. Again, it's got a few options for blinking/solid lights/etc, and the blinking option is super bright. I rode at night once and turned around to see if I could tell how far it was casting and I could see it reflecting off a stop sign about 1-2 blocks away.

One suggestion for a helmet (I don't know your budget), but I backed the Lumos Helmet on Kickstarter and received mine last month. It's awesome, and I feel way more visible with it than with a normal helmet. Plus the turn signals are a major plus!

Honestly, I'd say start riding, and the knowledge of common damage/ repairs will come through experience. This will also help on the customer service side of things because you will be able to relate to the customers. Sure, the LBS can train you on some more niche skills (such as installing a bottom bracket for bike build up), but 90% of the issues with bikes you will be able to see first hand (flat tire, poorly indexed gears, etc.), and how to resolve them, if you ride. As for tools, a good multi-tool (I use this one) will have the tools to be able to fix most problems, though the shop will have much better proper tools, which should be used if available.

I had shimano on both of my bikes. That's as far as I can go for recommending something. They both lasted without issue, and the shoes lasted thousands of miles as well. Shimano makes good stuff. I wouldn't spend more than like 50-60 bucks. Unless you're going for super light weight on a road bike.

[these are what I had on my mountain bike, and they were great, and would work for a commuter or road bike as well] (http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464887791&sr=8-1&keywords=Shimano+PD-M530+Trail+Mountain+Pedals)

The wiki has a great section on shoes n pedals.

Swapping the pedals out is pretty easy. Just be careful to not cross thread. The right and left pedals screw in opposite.

There are a couple of dual clip options in the wiki that have look on one side and spd on the other.

I personally use these and love them.
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-149319-PD-M530-Mountain-Pedals/dp/B0052XXW32

One of the things I like most about living here is not needing a car. There are certainly some places I avoid biking to/through, especially at night, out of concern for my safety. If I need to go there, I just use lyft, or get a ride from a friend.

Someone else mentioned that there are no bike lanes - this is not true. There are bike lanes on some roads, but not as many as I personally would like. That said, there are a lot of pretty narrow streets, especially in the quarter/marigny/bywater that simply don't have room for bike lanes.

One recommendation I would make is to get a bike airhorn for the moments when drivers aren't paying attention/don't care about bicyclists/aren't exactly sober, which seems to happen a lot here. This has saved me on quite a few occassions.

Yeah, any other non-road bike pedal will be more than enough. I have these on my Felt, and they're not true road or mountain bike pedals, more like commuter-esque/urban riding pedals. A lot of people like the Shimano SPD pedals because they are really great value for the price point. These ones are the most common and are very versatile.

Unless you're pro-cyclist level, there really isn't a huge gain (at least imo, ymmv) between the two. Comes down to preference really. I have noticed in a few bike shops that road shoes/cleats tend to run a little bit more as well, but I also wasn't really looking into those, so obviously there's going to be variation.

Yup, I wear those to bike and 4-5/7 days of the week at work. Really not complaints at all - very sturdy shoe, good design, and the vibram soles work great in any wet/non-ideal conditions.

It sucks to say, but you are definitely going to eat shit at least once while getting used to clipless pedals. Just a part of the initiation into biking culture!

I picked up this Topeak Alien II but it doesn't have pliers or a knife but I do have an small leatherman which does. I figured a 26-function would cover most of things that could come up but I'm interested in what you dig up.

Edit: You're awesome. Thanks, man!

That's an airzound. (Or a knockoff... Does anyone make a knockoff?) I have one but the can is starting to rust out, and I'm genuinely unsure if I'm going to replace it or not. (Don't like the idea of a rusty pressure vessel!)

Here's the thing... when you need one, it's great to have. But the problem I have is that the actual trigger mechanism is so fucking huge that there's nowhere to place it on my bike that's within easy reach. As a result it's wayyy off-line for my thumbs so that I have to deliberately take my hand off my bars, search for the mech, and then push it. The upshot is that I'm only able to do that when I have a few seconds warning that I'm going to need to use it (this video would be a good example); it's definitely not something that you can place to reflexively hit in an emergency.

I guess if you had a cruiser with a coaster brake or a fixie that wouldn't be a problem. But I have a gear shifters and brake levers on both sides; there's absolutely no place to fit this giant butt fucking monstrosity on my bars within easy reach.

I'm going to assume Philadelphia is a lot like NYC ( where I live) when it comes to bike theft, so I will give you the same advice I give people that move here. Get a Kryptonite u lock. This one is the absolute cheapest that you can go with, but you'd be mush safer going with this. Lock thought the front wheel and frame. I would suggest getting at least a cable lock for the back wheel. Anything quick release will be stolen unless locked down. Best to replace anything that is quick release. No locking method is 100%. Whatever lock you have, there is a tool that can break it. The only thing you can do is not make it worth the effort. So don't go locking up a super nice bike. Lock it whenever you're out of arms length. If someone jumps on it and goes, you'll never catch it.

Sounds to me like you'll be after either a cyclocross/gravel grinder bike or a commuter. Both styles have clearance for wide 700c tires and (usually) mount points for racks and fenders, which are invaluable commuting accessories. The cyclocross/gravel bikes have drop (road style) bars, while the commuters have flat (mountain style) bars. Both are equally at home on pavement or gravel roads, but will struggle with true mountain biking.

Here are a bunch of new commuter bikes for ~$500:

• Kona Dew
  
  
• Trek 7.1 FX
  
  
• Scott Sub 40
  
  
• Giant Escape 2
  
  
• Specialized Sirrus
  
  
• Cannondale Quick 6
  
  
• GT Traffic 2.0
  
  
• Diamondback Insight 2
  
  Most of these can be had with better components for a few hundred more.
  
  Cyclocross/gravel bikes:
  
  
• Surly Cross-Check
  
  
• Surly Straggler
  
  
• Niner RLT 9
  
  
• Kona Jake/Jake the Snake
  
  
• Specialized Tricross Series
  
  
• Trek Crossrip Series
  
  Of all those, the one I'd be most likely to buy is the Straggler.
  
  Another thing I'd recommend investing in is clipless pedals. For rides of more than a few miles they make a huge difference. These are what I use on my commuter because they allow use with bike or street shoes.

That's definitely a steal. Have heard good things about these Tubus racks.

However, anyone have experience with an Ibera PakRak:

http://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-IB-RA4-Frame-mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458744660&sr=8-4&keywords=tubus+rack

Looks like a good deal. I'm looking for a rear rack that can accept panniers.

Right now, I have this Topeak Explorer rack on my Schwinn Varsity:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIE3WI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

My bike is a commuter but I am planning on taking it on some short weekend / week-long tours this summer, hopefully going for a month long tour at the tail end of summer.

Thanks for any insight, everyone! Cheers!

I have that exact bike. It's a great entry level road bike! Done around 2,500km on it and it's still going strong. I've used it as a commuter with some security quick release skewers (so your wheels don't get stolen easily) and a Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini (possibly the strongest U-lock you can buy, other Kryptonite locks are worth a look too though, for less money).

I have this rack for it. As long you're physically able to climb the hill then the bike will. ;-)

The feedback sports stand(s) get a lot of love.

But some friends and I have this Bikehand one from amazon. Pretty well reviewed and has worked fine for me over the past year:

https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/

Hey sorry for the very late reply /u/gbchk! I have been really busy with a lot of stuff these last 2 weeks, and hence haven't gotten the chance to properly reply to you.

With regards to a good dry lube, I mentioned in my build log that a Dry PTFE lube should be good for the ALPS switch. I personally used the WD-40 PTFE lube, though any other Dry PTFE lube should work as well. As you can see from the build log, I referenced a [youtube comment] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=msOYzgb1IT4) that mentioned another dry lube that you might be able to try, the Finish Line dry film PTFE lube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IDZXRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Also, I have updated my main comment with the link to the album which showcases how I lubed my ALPS. Hopefully this will serve you well as a guide.

Sorry again for the late reply, and have fun with whatever project you may have now!

If you plan on commuting year round, I would consider keeping the Giant. Maybe look into getting new tires that are narrower. Kenda makes some 26x1.5" 100 PSI tires that are popular that the shop I worked at. The shifting is probably better than that Schwinn and should have a lower end gearing for any hills or heavier loads. Tires and tubes should be well under $100 if not $80.

From my experience, Crank Brothers pedals are great, other parts or accessories not so much. This Topeak tool is awesome and has everything you should need including tire levers.

Lump it with the Giant for a while until you save and find a bike that is within your price range and that fits you and your style of riding well.

My $30 tail light Cygolite Hotshot 2-Watt USB Rechargeable Taillight with USB Cable by Cygolite that was recommended to me on Reddit. Its like Ron Jeremy the Hedgehog. IT just goes and goes its small but mighty but smells better than Ron. . I charged it once and it lasted approximately 42 hrs of use in warm weather.

Link: https://amzn.com/B005DVA57Y

also my REI Flash 22 pack for $33.93 is awesome you have to love the dividends.

If only the Urban lights and motion 200 was as good its a total piece of crap in cold weather it lasts one ride before needing charging in hot weather it needs charging every 5 hours. Their claim of 12 hours on low pulse is bull crap

hotshots are good, built in battery, and really bright if you want them to be ( adjustable settings )

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y

Not good for aero seatpost though

Cygolite has really good customer service too, i've contacted them on two separate times about replacement rubber buttons ( lost one in a crash, the other during my ride ) And they mailed me some at no cost.

My headlight from them is kinda poopy, but these taillights are great, mine is going on 2+ years with tons of use and never had any issues and battery still holds fine. Really easy to turn on/off while riding the bike too.

I have a Monster cable lock now and just read the reviews on the brand for the first time. Definitely need to upgrade. I am thinking about something like this. U-locks are supposed to be great, and the cable would help keep the wheels safe.

good questions. this mini u-lock combined with a cable [to secure front wheel, too] is what is now used by most who are serious about securing their ride.

and these two rack designs are typically preferred in the u.s.:

new york city rack - nyc is making this their "city approved" rack after a thorough design contest. bikes can lean against it to be stable; can lock the front, rear, and frame easily; and it looks very clean from a design standpoint

typical "u" tube: these are found a lot and function very similar to the nyc rack. aesthetically they're not as nice but a lot cheaper and good function. you can see how the yellow bike can secure both wheels and the frame.

btw - what country?

This is a tough bike. I have one that's about forty years old. It doesn't take much care.

Besides tires and tubes, you also need new brake pads. Cheap but very important.

In order of increasing cost/benefit:

Clean the drive train (all the gears and the chain) with rags and a degreaser. Old toothbrushes and dish brushes can help with this. You want to remove all the black, caked grease and clean the components to the bare metal. Once they are clean, let them dry and lubricate them.

Have a LBS replace the brake and shifter cables and housings. You probably have the original ones. Replacing these greatly reduces the risk of snapping a cable or two on the road, something that can render the bike unrideable. It will also make shifting and braking much smoother.

If your LBS tells you your chain is worn out, they are probably right. This is also a cheap fix. It will make shifting smoother and protect your drive train from excessive wear. It also lowers the risk of a broken chain on the road, which again makes the bike unrideable.

Enjoy!

I only have two legs and I rarely fall over.

Seriously though, unless you're being careless they are plenty sturdy. I'd recommend this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I've heard good things about the Aldi stand if you want to go super cheap.

You should definitely get a torque wrench. I've been happy with the Nashbar branded one.

• [Crank Brothers multi tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Bicycle-19-Function-Silver/dp/B0012Q41HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418363910&sr=8-1&keywords=crank+brothers+multi+tool)
  
  
• [Topeak saddlebag] (http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364745&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+saddle+bag)
  
  
• [Cygolite Metro 400 Headlight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-400-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00LXTOT6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364255&sr=8-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+400)
  
  
• [Cygolite Hotshot Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y)
  
  
• [CatEye Wireless Bike Computer] (http://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-CC-VT220W/dp/B004RE783W/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1418364327&sr=1-16&keywords=cateye)
  
  
• [Finish Line Chain Lube] (http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-4-Ounce-Squeeze/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting)
  
  
• [Genuine Innovations CO2 Inflator] (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2628-Ultraflate-Inflator/dp/B002AGI1QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420015344&sr=8-1&keywords=innovations+co2+inflator)
  
  If you're looking to up your riding game, everything listed above will save you from any trouble you have on the road. Cycling computer is always neat to have too!
  
  Cygolite Metro 400 and the Hotshot are brilliant. The lights definitely pack a strong punch. I'll tell you right now, unless the lighting in your town sucks ass or you go off road riding, the metro 400 is a great light and you don't really need to go much higher than that.
  

I just found that this lube is cheaper than the super lube, and pretty widely used. As for the stabilizers, this stuff seems pretty good.

Here's a video of me cleaning and putting the whole thing back together. And, yes, it still works.

The two plastic body pieces were soaked for 24 hours before scrubbing it down. The lube used in the video for the plastic contact points as well as the trackball rollers is Finish Line Extreme Fluoro.

A big thanks to my friend /u/jfgorski for the Alphagrip iGrip! Read his opinion on the device right here, he's been using these things for years and has much more insight than I could ever provide. Also, thanks to /u/ripster55 for letting me post this here.

This is the best advice here. As for a pump, if you're going to go with a regular pump this one is what seemed to come up the most when I searched this sub and it's served me pretty well. It does kinda rattle a bit when riding, though. Down the line you'll probably want to get a regular floor pump, too, something like this maybe.

I'd also agree that gloves aren't necessary. Also agree with two cages and two water bottles. I started with just one bottle but quickly realized that I need two. Any old cage will do, and Camelbak Podium bottles are a popular choice. I got the clear one so I can tell at a glance how much water I have left.

Hey there! I wish you the best of luck in your training and thanks for the contest!

My item is a bike lock. I'm going to be needing a one come Fall when I start school.

I have a Ulock and looped flex-cable. Chains are heavy, and easier to break.

For ulocks, you want to get the smallest one possible that will still let you lock to a pole. That extra space is what lets thiefs get a jack in there to pop it.

My ususal three links I give out to people on theft prevention:

Chicago Bike Blog article

CDOT

Chicago Ambasador's PDF

Also, remember to keep you bike locked someplace safe overnight like in your apartment, or in your buildings storage unit, especially until you have a good feel about how safe your area is at night for your bike.

I have like 4 of these. They're super bright and battery lasts a long time. You can find them on eBay every now and then for $20.

Edit: A year ago I switched to a USB version of the light above. I got mine on eBay for $12, but can be found [here](
http://www.lightinthebox.com/zhishunjia-waterproof-3-mode-1xcree-xm-l2-u2-high-power-bike-lamp-900lm-usb-5v-gray-red_p3984844.html?currency=USD&litb_from=paid_adwords_shopping&sku=429_6917) for around the same price. I use it with a USB power bank, like this. I just put the battery pack in my frame bag. I can charge my phone and light my path at the same time if I want. It's really a great setup!

I have a Cygolite Metro 1100 and Light & Motion Urban 650. Both are enough to see with and ride around 20mph on paved surfaces. They are supposed to last ~1.5hrs at peak output. After dark, I ride with both.

I find that the typical advertised runtime on 500+ lumen lights doesn't go past 2hrs without an additional battery pack (not all have swappable batteries). Only the cheap lights aren't weather resistant.

Other brands such as Nite Rider, Lezyne, and Cateye make some really bright lights. I wouldn't go below 500 lumens if you ride with any pace.

As for taillights, a Cygolite Hotshot and Light & Motion Vis 180. I think I go a good week before recharging. I ride with both after dark and one all the time.

As far as flashing and constant, I do one of each in back when in traffic, constant on trails. Headlights are always constant and I turn off the super bright one on trails.

I use this heavy ass lock. A hacksaw can still cut through it, but it takes more time.

I also use a cable to secure my quick-release front wheel.

There's no sure way to secure your bike, all you can do is use good locking stratagy. Lock it to something solid in a well lit place where people are more likely to notice a theif holding a saw or bolt cutters.

I highly recommend Hako Clears.

The tactile bump is very clear and high, giving a topre-like feel and a nice meaty cushion at the bottom.

I upgraded from cherry browns and it's like night and day, especially after I lubed both the stems (with [finish line extreme flouro teflon grease](Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease, 20g Syringe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L5UL92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0TYtDb4EZ5ED3)) and the springs (with [dupont silicone lubricant](DuPont Teflon Silicone Lubricant Squeeze Bottle, 4 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCVXUVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ESYtDbT85X5A5)).

The extra work is 100% recommended for the smoothest tactile action I've ever felt.

1. Lights yes. Drivers here suck. Pedestrians here suck. Hell, most of the other cyclists on campus and around Berkeley suck too if I'm going to be honest... You want everyone to see you, and you also want to be able to see, especially the potholes and pedestrians.
   
   It's winter so lights are a super worthy investment, especially because they last a long time and you'll be able to use them for years before you run into battery/durability issues.
   
   You don't really need the lock posted in the comment you replied to. I mean I have one myself and all, but I don't carry it normally because the value of my campus commuter isn't worth the weight of the lock (that bitch is heavy.) I only use it if I happen to want to ride one of my nicer bikes around, or if I'm going to be parking my bike at the BART station or downtown for a whole day- that kind of thing.
   
   IMO the Evolution Series 2 U-lock plus the cable is going to be fine for most on campus usage as long as you're not leaving the bike unattended for a whole day, or overnight. Biggest thing when locking up is doing it properly. Make sure the u-lock gets the frame and your rear wheel both, and use your cable for the front.
   
   
2. It's a pretty meh choice. A popular bikesdirect road bike is the Windsor Wellington, but I wouldn't recommend it either. The money you save on the bike itself is not worth the frustration from riding a poorly assembled and adjusted bike. You'd pay $100 at any of the local shops to have them assemble and adjust it anyway, and riding an improperly adjusted bike is an un-fun PITA. Doing the assembling and adjusting yourself is "easy" but doing it right takes some tools you may not have, and some finesse that takes a while to learn. That being said, the cheapest road bike from one of the LBSs (Local Bike Shops) here will run you at least upper 600s IIRC, so take your pick.
   
   If you think you'll be riding regularly though, as transportation and recommendation, I highly recommend you go with an LBS option because people who know what they're talking about will guide you through your choices.

Road bikes are great lighter the easier it is to ride, it might be worth getting slime tyres to stop punctures, I have a triangle bag that goes inside the frame that I put a small pump and a multi tool in + my lunch on a weekday.

I would recommend two thick D locks to use when parking, I thread the 'D' through the bag buckles and keep the keys and lock in the Bag.

for weather gear you need a rain layer warm layer and sweat layer to keep out the cold. waterproof gloves, goggles or eye protection.

Fenders would be a good choice as well to stop mud flicking up.

Don't get a mountain bike, really not very easy to ride and heavy. Also lights

If you're not averse to heading across to Kirkland, this one is a solid option for $50: https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/6172493923.html - 17" should be right for 5'6" and at that price you can add $20 fenders, a $20 rack, $20 in lights (front and rear!) and $40 on a u lock with auxiliary cable - bike theft is pretty rampant in Seattle and campuses are often hit. If everyone around you has sad cable locks and you've got the bother of a u-lock and a cable, your chances of the bike making it through the year in your possession increase greatly. (Hot tips on how to actually lock up once you have said lock - http://www.sfbike.org/resources/theft-locking/ )

Alternate options: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/6164879482.html - up in shoreline and $155 but this Specialized Hardrock should be a good fit at 16" and still has a bit in the budget for a rack/fenders/lock/lights. Plus it looks to be in good shape.

Last year I got my first "real" bike and decided to take the plunge and get some clipless pedals, after about 2k miles I will never look back. A friend in the cycling industry recommended Shimano SPD pedals, they are cheap and easy to exit, (road specific pedals and shoes tend to be more expensive) and also tend to have a recessed cleat. I have Shimano shoes they are comfortable, and relatively inexpensive (as far as bike shoes go) you might be able to find some better deals on nashbar or other sites like that though.

I am about to order some Shimano PD-A520 which is more of a touring pedal, it has a bigger platform which will reduce hotspots on long rides (which wasn't a problem until recently, probably due to shoe wear.) You may also want to check out these which give you the choice to use clipless shoes or just regular shoes.

*sp

Bike originally retailed for $1,129.99 source

He does say that the shifters need replaced, which is going to run you about $40-$50 for the parts, if you can install it yourself.

I'm a fan of the pedals on the bike, although they aren't that expensive to pick up, about $40. If he isn't selling cleats with the bike, and you don't have cleats, they are going to cost you about $16. I can't tell what kind of bike computer is on there, but low end bike computers can be had for $10-$20, so they usually don't drive up the bike price.

It is nice that it was overhauled recently, but the items listed sound like the bike has not been used gingerly, however that is the norm for mountain bikes. The bike seems reasonably priced, but if you are looking to talk him down I would quote the "scratches and stuff", shifter replacement, possible lack of cleats, and the fact that the drivetrain is previous generation 9 speed, not 10 speed. From the unwillingness to ship and the overall state of the bike, especially the lack of cleaning prior to picture taking, I would bet that the seller is largely trying to get rid of it, as he quoted, "I am buying a new bike & do not have room for a lot of bikes".

My personal strategy, were I negotiating on this bike, would be to cite the problems with the bike, give a lowball offer at $300, and be happy if you were able to scoop it up for $350, though $400 does not seem unreasonable considering the equipment.

Overall I have found that X-7 and X-9 perform well, and personally do not mind running 9 speed kit in my mountain bikes. I have had a lot of success picking up older bikes on craigslist / ebay, and the huge cost savings far outweighs the fact that your bike isn't as shiny.

>http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M545-Downhill-Clipless-Pedal/dp/B000XNXUUG

I wouldn't recommend those for riding any distance in normal shoes as the clip mechanism is by necessity proud of the platform.

My brother used to have M545s on his hybrid but got rid of them for that reason he's much happier with the M324 pedals he switched to instead. Getting the wrong side some of the time when you set off is preferable to having no right side. The new [A530 looks even better](http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1397424911&sr=1-2&keywords=shimano+hybrid+pedals
) with a really nice big platform on the clip free side.

Personally I'd go for Time Allroad Grippers because I like the float atac pedals give you.

A few bits of advice:

1. Don't lock it outside overnight. Keep it in your apartment.
   
2. Buy used. I don't know where the hell you can find a bike of any quality for $15, but you can get some for less than $100. Look on Craigslist, beware scammers, and please don't buy a bike from a bike thief.
   
3. Get a decent U-lock. This one is pretty good. Use the included cable to loop around your front wheel. The cable is a bit short, but it's long enough to get the wheel. Unfortunately it is NOT long enough to get both the wheel and seatpost, at least not on my bike. If you're worried about that, get a 7' cable instead. All locks are breakable, of course, but a decent U-lock will thwart casual thieves and encourage the pros to move on to the next bike that's less secured.
   
4. Don't ride drunk. Combined with #1, that means don't ride it anywhere if you plan on drinking.
   
   I've been riding an old mountain bike I got for $70 off Craigslist for a few years. It looks its age but it rides like a champ. Yes, it's silly that my locks cost nearly as much as my bike, but I don't care. I'm a little paranoid.

I have a similar pump, and I've been very happy with it. I really like the flexible hose; it makes the pump easier to use. Depending on what kind of bike you have, you might want the high pressure one (120 psi "pressure drive" vs. 90 psi "alloy drive").

I also have this multitool, which I've also been happy with, except the large hex wrench that fits over the smaller one isn't as secure as I think it should be (it's never fallen off though).

Yeah, they're definitely more 'theft deterrence' than theft proof. Basically whatever makes your bike less appealing to steal than the cable locked one next to it. Generally Kryptonite locks are well regarded, but the price reflects that. They'll have different ratings for 'medium theft' and 'high theft' areas. Vancouver's generally 'high'. This isn't their highest $100+ style lock but it's nice because it comes with a cable you can use to secure the wheels if they're quick release - http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2 For reference, because locks are only useful if used correctly, this is a handy guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryY-qMFLcfo

I'm a little late on your post, but as someone who only recently got serious about cycling and even more recently went clipless, I'll share some thoughts:

> more speed/acceleration

As others have said, there isn't a substantial speed increase. However, in my opinion, it does become easier to get up to speed if you pop out of the saddle and floor it. It also makes climbing feel far easier to me. The biggest advantage is the added stability in your feet. After 5-10 miles, I don't even feel the pedals so much anymore and it becomes a fluid process.

> But does this tire you out faster?

Not really, but if I'm being honest, "pulling" uses a set of muscles you may not be used to using, so your legs may get unexpectedly sore for the first couple of rides if you do that. Once you're past that (which was quick for me) there are no real downsides.

> Are they hard to get out of in a pinch?

This depends. There are different types of cleats/clips, and you can vary the tension on each, making them easier or harder to get out of. I've been using mine for about 6 months and have always been able to clip out in time, even once when a car cut me off and I had to get out in a split second.

> Are good/light ones terribly expensive?

Prices vary widely, but you can easily get a solid set of pedals for $50 or so. I have these pedals here, since I ride recreationally and also use my bike to commute in to work. Notice there are clips on one side and a flat platform on the other. They aren't the lightest, but they aren't super heavy, and the versatility is great.

Rather than standard tire levers, I prefer to use a speed lever for changing my tubes/tires. Though I think I want to pick up one of their speedier levers, because that knuckle protection looks pretty sweet.

For a pump, I'm a huge fan of the Topeak Road Morph G. Though on one of my bikes I forgo the pump and just ride with CO2 and a chuck since I flat so rarely and it fit is my seat bag (though I still always carry two tubes).

And as others have said I try to never go for a ride without my multi-tool an ID some cash, a bank or credit card, and my phone.

Not sure what your budget is exactly, but I went with this:

Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tDCNAbDC2DC6Z

It’s been solid, I’ve had it for over a year and have worked on all our bikes on the rack. It’s light but doesn’t feel flimsy. In the future I’d love to own something more heavy duty like a park tools one, but for now this is a gem.

Note: I’m not in any way affiliated with Bikehand, just a customer who would def vouch for the repair stand!

Last week, I bought the XT Trail PD-M785, which is about half the price ($80 vs $161) of the XTR and only like 10 grams heavier (398 vs 408) and I absolutely adore them. I've been riding clipless for a couple years now and I've used Time's and Crank Brothers mostly and these Shimano's are in a whole different league.

The platform is big enough to give you something to stand on if you want to clip out going down some techy stuff or if you need to do an uphill start. The tension adjust is also a really nice feature so that you can leave them loose when you're just starting out and then tighten the engagement as needed. Those pedals and my dropping seatpost are absolutely the best upgrades I've done to my bike recently.

EDIT: If you're looking for something even more reasonably priced, there are the Shimano PD-M530, which is the same style of pedal, just $40. I'm looking into a pair of these for my girlfriend right now. I haven't ridden them personally, but people say really good things about them.

I'd recommend the Shimano A530 pedals, they're pretty great imo and got plenty of good reviews, you got SPD on one side and platform on the other when you don't feel like using your cycling shoes.

Do you want them to see in the dark, or to be seen?

These are the best:
http://www.dinottelighting.com/

They are not cheap.

Here is a much more affordable tail light:
http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1372712157&sr=8-4&keywords=cygolite+bike+lights

In my opinion, any of the super cheap blinky lights (e.g. Knog, ~$10) are a waste of money. They won't make you more noticeable. I don't know how much you care, but there are plenty of youtube videos demonstrating how bright some of these lights are. Without knowing your budget, it's hard to recommend something.

I use SPD clipless pedals, along with these shoes. I prefer MTB clipless shoes because they have a recessed cleat and are much easier to walk in than road-oriented kicks.

The difference you notice when using a clipless system is astounding, and I would never go back to platforms/cages. So much more efficient and natural feeling.

I have two bikes, one I bought from Century Cycles, and another I got off craigslist for super cheap. The one from craigslist is my favorite, and there were a ton more on there that I loved. The one I got on craigslist goes for around $700 brand new, but I got it from the guy for I think around $280ish.

I also live in an apartment, and I bought one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UUEF7E/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 holds both bikes just fine, and they are both large sizes (for someone around my height - 6' 2")

EDIT: also get yourself a nice bike lock: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_4?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1374593601&sr=1-4&keywords=bike+lock

Speaking of limited means, people will steal a bike that's only worth $100. $100 can be a lot to someone with limited means. If they lose their bike and have trouble getting into work, they're out even more.

That sounds obvious, but I'm getting somewhere with it. The argument of "they should protect their stuff better" falls flat when you start talking about people of limited means. A "decent" lock runs about $35-40. That's a lock you're going to be able to break quickly if you have an angle grinder, or even just a long enough pry bar. To get really good (note: not impenetrable) security, you're looking at about $100. And that lock doesn't even include a cable like the $40 one did, so you're spending even more to make sure you don't get a wheel stolen.

So suddenly the person on the $100 used bike has to spend somewhere between an additional $40-100 to have a hope that their means of transportation won't get stolen. That puts an even greater burden on people with limited means.

Just my experience but I went with Bontrager Solstice shoes and absolutely love them. I have a wider foot and they have rubber on the bottom so not terrible to walk a short distance in.


For pedals I went with Shimano A530 pedals. A solid pedal that can be ridden as a flat as well. Not the lightest pedal but very practical for me.


Total cost $130.00. Might be an option for you.

I've been using this one for quite a few years, and I love it! Really awesome small solution with great replacement parts for the whole unit. It's another pump that a lot of people swear by (including myself, but I am fallible like the rest)
http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395611696&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+road+morph

A decent repair stand. One with quick release clamp and a solid tool tray. Something like this stand would be awesome. It makes doing bike maintenance SO much easier if you have a good stand. I bought a cheap one and I regret it every time I use it.

Agreed, its a good idea for folks who already have a shoe with different cleats. I already had SPD compatible shoes and didn't want to spend the extra $ on the Peloton shoes. Did something similar but with Shimano pedals:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MZ2AGO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Allows my 15 y.o. daughter who does not have cycling shoes to take advanced beginner rides and a couple of friends who have been curious have also been able to try out the bike.

1. Airzound. It mounts to your bars, a bottle holds the compressed air and goes in your wsterbottle cage. 115db horn. Can be purchased many places, but here is where I got it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_wfksDb98VW2V7
   
   
2. Yes, often the framerates, passing speeds, angle, water drops on the lense, etc can render the few frames of the plate being visible as unreadable. Letters can be harder to define after the fact. Usually in all the whole plate, but ibwas trying to read the trucks plate before the trailer passed. I was also gassed as I had just been sprinting. Note the speedometer... this is added afterwards using GPS data.
   Learn your phonetic alphabet as well. I'll typically call it out quick then phonetically "A, B, C; 1, 2, 3, 4... Alpha - Bravo - Charlie".
   
   
3. Yes, rear camera tells more of the story. How close was the car, how fast did they come up on you, how close were they, how long were they behind you?
   By mounting it rear facing off of your bars at an angle like mine is, it also shows perspective of close passes. It captures the rider (me), my bike, road position and the overtaking vehicles pisiton. Sometimes it can also capture the drivers face, but usually angle/glare dont yield good results on this.
   I like to have my 7 on my helmet so that if I look at someone, it looks where I do (like when I stopped to try to educate this gentleman.)
   
   
4. You didn't ask, but hey... I always try to control my temper and be respectful. My purpose is to attempt to educate the driver as to why I was riding like I was, and give some insight. Usually that fails, but ocassionslly I get through to someone. That makes it worth it.

> http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Drop-Ends/dp/B0013G6PB8

definitely save up your money and get a nice Tiagra or 105 road bike when you can afford it. Way better than getting a $750 bike that you'll want to upgrade in 2 years.

Honestly it takes more time to patch a tube than it does to install a new one, it's the same amount of work. I'd highly caution you that you should learn some basic bicycle maintenance before taking off on a weekend trip because that list isn't overkill...it's bare minimum. It takes one time being stranded to really wish you had learned to replace the simple little things like a spoke or chain link on your bike.

Everything I mentioned can be fixed with a simple pocket tool like THIS

It's not the distance - you're right, 100 miles isn't much in a weekend. It's just generally making the decision to put yourself at risk for being stranded. Loaded touring will put stress and weight on bike parts that normal city riding won't.

But again, if you think it's overkill just go do whatever. Eventually on a trip you'll break something and be far enough out that you'll learn to fix your bike when you get back. I'm trying to help you safely enjoy this trip, if you want to go about it your way go for it....there's just no reason to take the risks you're about to take.

Oh man, besides the pedals I'm not sure these are upgrades as much as they are 'add-ons' but hey I'm done working so I'll pretend by being on Reddit:

Got this light from my LBS with my bike, love that it was bright as shit and rechargeable...I emailed the company about some the band and different sizes since we have the interrupter lever, they were awesome and sent me some to try out

This tail Light because it was also rechargeable and crazy bright...people behind me have rolled up and asked what kind of light it is...me likey

These panniers because the good reviews, minimal looks, and the waterproof aspect..I use these guys along with a random rack from REI everyday....love it..I also got this backpack thingymajig that makes the pannier a backpack

Got these pedals because they allowed me to rock normal shoes when I'm not wearing these, I like that I can tool around with just normal shoes on without worrying about foot placement.

And riding through town with the oblivious drivers/tourists around downtown I'm picking this horn, we'll see how it goes..and maybe a gopro......

that looks like the exact same stand I bought from amazon, rebranded as bikehand. It came with the tool tray. Works pretty well, and folds up easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3AHQXDOA1095F&dchild=1&keywords=bikehand+bike+repair+stand&qid=1574355588&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=bikehand%2Csporting%2C143&sr=1-4

Just gonna paste an email I sent a friend with a similar question:

On the bars:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/
With:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B004WLCLQY/
And:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AAQOV5E/

The wide angle thing is important for bar lights, otherwise it's too much of a spotlight and when you turn your bars you can't see the trail. With that big battery it's good on high for 3 hours.

My old light just broke and I replaced it with this. I've only used it once, but the specs looked good and it worked well. I don't know if it's good for 3 hours though:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B00C2MHNJK/

The battery is claimed to be 6400mah, but it's much smaller than the big 6600 mah battery I linked above. Not sure who's lying on their specs.

All-in, you're at about $70. Not too shabby, 'specially considering it used to be 4 bills for a 2-light setup.

Can always run it on low to keep from blinding folks.

What is it about drops that you want? If it's a more aggressive riding position then yes go with a road bike. But do know those slimmer tires will not be as forgiving over bumps as something with a bit more volume.

If its just that you want more hand positions for the ride there are a whole variety of bar ends that you can add for little expense. Some of these will stretch you out more, some will just reorient your hands, and these mimic drop bars.

Plus v-brakes are probably the best rim brakes for a commuter (powerful, easy to run fenders, etc etc.)

The R530s are on sale for $39.99 on Performance:
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product2_10052_10551_1108401_-1

Pretty sure these are the pedals I have on my Peloton, $29.99 on Performance:
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product2_10052_10551_1167364_-1

And these are the pedals I have on my cross/town bike. They have a platform on the flip side, $42.45:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MZ2AGO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The clip for the SPD style cleats is smaller - much smaller and harder to clip into than the LOOK style. But once you get used to it, they are really easy. Overall, I'm glad I made the switch.

I just bought this Cygolite Metro 360 head light and this Cygolite Hotshot tail light a few days ago. They are well reviewed and seem blindingly bright when I look at them inside. Several different flash modes and are both USB rechargeable.

As for other products which can save your life, a cell phone and a credit/debit card will be useful if you're stranded somewhere. Wearing a Road ID will be helpful to emergency personnel if you're unable to communicate.

To answer your first question in terms of areas where bike theft happens more, I'd just say avoid areas that are hidden or away from every day pedestrian traffic. Don't lock it up in an alleyway that people never go down.

I have a bike that is about the same price as yours. I've been commuting all over Columbus for five years now and I've never had my bicycle stolen.

I would HIGHLY suggest that you get a good u-lock. That's all you really need. If you're concerned about someone running off with your wheels you can also get one of the u-locks that also have the cable for your wheels. Here is the U-Lock that I bought I've had that lock the entire time and I've had no issues with it.

Also, make sure you lock it to something sturdy. Preferably a good bike rack that you can get your bike lock through the frame of your bike. I prefer to lock it through the back wheel and the and the top bar that goes from the seat post to the back wheel.

Also final word of advice is definitely do not leave your bicycle out over night.

Additional stuff. If you have any stuff on your bicycle, like a light (you should probably get one if you plan on riding at night, and get a nice 550 lumen one), make sure you take them off when you've locked your bike up.

It depends on the route and season. If it's going to be a wet ride with 14 hours of no sun, then I run a dynamo hub with lights. The S&P hubs are relatively cheap. And I pair it with a IQ2 LUXOS U, though I am looking into an Exposure Revo MK1.

For speedier rides in the 5hr zone, I'll strap on one of these. The beam is a bit narrow for road use and it is symmetric so you have to be careful about blinding drivers. A spare battery is also pretty cheap, so you can have 10hrs of for $60 which is probably the best deal anywhere.

Finally, if I am doing something short like a 300/400k (well some 400k anyways), I'll throw on an Nightrider Lumina 750. The 5:30hr rating may be a bit optimistic, or my lights are getting a bit old.

As for lux... yea it's a German standard thing. I always wiki it (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux) and look at the examples they have. You can also see an example of that beam here: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp

It looks about the same output as my Nightrider at 200lumens.

I went this route from day 1 of my commuter purchase. I love them: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO

I reduced the tension nearly all the way, and it's super easy to clip in and out. You will fall. Know that right now. You'll forget and you will fall.

The nice thing is having the platform pedal on one side so you can wear street shoes when you so desire.

On Amazon.com the Most helpful Customer Comment for the Topeak Joe Blow Sport II Floor Pump at the top of the page has only two stars:

>186 of 191 people found the following review helpful

>cheapo materials

>By iiigoiii on June 17, 2011

>there's a couple of problems with these pumps, as other reviewers have pointed out for this pump and the original sport.

>- the head can be difficult to get a seal with, especially on the presta side. it may take several tries before being able to get air to flow,

>- the dual head is large, making it difficult to get onto smaller wheels with closer spokes,

>- the hose material is a cheap plastic, not rubber - it quickly starts to crack wherever it's bent (near the outlet and where it's stored over the handle) and soon blows out.

>their support company, todson, refuses to warranty the hose even though it's a material defect. instead of paying them a third to half the cost of a new pump, get 3/16" fuel line from your local auto parts store. fits perfectly, will last a lifetime, and only costs about two bucks!

This review, and the 186 people who agree with it, gives me cause for concern, particularly with the small Brompton wheels, hence why I am on here looking for input. :-)

Then you'll lose the lubricant again, unfortunately :) There are dry lubricants that can help, while avoiding attracting dust/grit.

There is a bike lube that I like for stuff like this, Finish Line Dry Lubricant. It goes on as a clear liquid, and dries dry, which is really nice. It's handy for a range of things around the house, it doesn't leave a mess like oil, and it doesn't attract grit.

This is the liquid version, there is also an aerosol can type:
Finish Line Dry Bicycle Chain Lube with Teflon - 4oz Squeeze Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vivxDbKQY3FYN

Just remember that the best lock is one that looks better than the one next to it - it's a deterrent first and foremost (though the fuhgeddaboudit lock has a good track record).
And of course, if you can, try to keep your bike indoors or in a lockup if you're not on it!

If you know of any cycling clubs (or are already a member) you'll be able to get insurance cheaper through them usually. Ask your LBS - they'll know the ins and outs.

Pob lwc!

Not on the body, but this is what I use on my almost nightly rides. The frame bag has two nice pockets that make gear easily accessible. Room for my wallet, phone, and repair kit too. I also have a powerful 1200 lumen light that lets me see what's happening farther ahead.
http://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup.asp?igpk=2126186169&TID=367&gclid=COza-7O2g7gCFZBaMgodVQUAtA
http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4

i have some hybrid pedals. they are shimano spd and are flat on one side. my daily commute is about 1 mile, so it is really not worth putting the bike shoes on, but when i ride for pleasure i like to go 10-20 miles. then it is worth it.

My pedal setup.

pedals

shoes

A lot of hand pumps are tough to get skinny tire pressures, but I've had really good luck with the Road Morph. The nice little hose lets you put the thing on the ground and pump against the ground like a little floor pump. 110psi no problem.

Got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00811WQT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 from amazon. It's a bit cloudy today, I will try to upload better photos tommorow!

Thanks for the help!!

Man, thanks everyone for the responses. I promise I was never trying to be a jerk with the flashing light. I'll not do that anymore (I of course knew it was bright enough to get noticed, didn't think about peoples' lack of ability to perceive motion from the flashing).

I'm going to try the suggested tip to aim the light from 50m at a wall tonight. Also going to see about finding a good and/or diffuser lens for my light. Between these changes, hopefully I'll have better outcomes.

I don't have to ride in the dark enough to buy a more exspensive light, but who knows, maybe Santa will come thru.

FWIW drivers are still jerks sometime, no matter what we do. BUT, hopefully I can be safer, make them more aware, and not ruffle their feathers (too much, a little can be productive! ᕕ( ᐛ )ᕗ).

For all those in the US that do so, enjoy your Thanksgiving! For the rest of you--enjoy your day anyway!

Yep, most visible-light LEDs have almost no UV. However, use good LEDs, no cheap ones. You want "binned" LEDs; those having a specific color temperature. There's more of a guarantee that there will be no UV.

I like Cree XM-L T6 (T6 is the bin code--warm white.) XM-L LEDs are very efficient, and can get very, very bright if pushed to their max. current. At high currents they do get hot, and require heat sinks to avoid burning out. You can find XM-L flashlight/bike light/head lamps that are real cheap when ordered from China. Wire the battery terminals up to a wall adapter, and they' can be pretty decent lamps. IKEA has some cheap-ish ($10,) but less-bright LED desk lamps. Right now I'm using 4 of those for my emulsion work.

Really frickin' bright bike light...

I agree with all of that.

I would just add that bar ends are an economical option for adding more hand placement options to an MTB, without having to swap handlebars/shifters/brake levers.

Most people would opt for a standard bar ends to give you that on-the-hoods/bullhorn hand position. Add a cheap set of foam grips, and install these angled up so that your wrist is straight when riding.

If you want the feel of riding down in the drops, then there are also drop bar ends available. These will require grip tape, and should be installed flat or angled very slightly up.

These XML T6 lights are amazing, I have three.

Make sure you also get one of these:

www.amazon.com/Angle-MagicShine-Gemini-Lights-Headlight/dp/B004WLCLQY/ref=pd_sim_sg_1

They make a huge difference to the beam, much nicer for a bike light.

I biked through Wichita Falls this summer on a cross country trip! Biking from Wichita Falls to Lawton, OK was one of my favorite days of the entire trip. Might not be the prettiest city, but some of the countryside north of there is great. (Also you guys have the Hotter Than Hell 100!)

For accessories you definitely want to get a hefty U-lock (this is a good one) and learn how to lock it up correctly. If you are going to be biking at night, get a front and rear light. If you are sticking to roads with street lights you need a "be seen" front light, if you are going to be biking in the real dark you'll need a higher powered "seeing" front light.

Funny enough... the pedals I have on there are SPD pedals that came on the bike I previously purchased. They're similar to THESE, which I found on Amazon.

The pedals I will be putting on soon though, are THESE, of which I am a massive fan. They've got SPD clips on one side and a platform on the other side, which means I can clip in when I am using cycling shoes, but can also just hop on with sneaker or any flat soled shoe that I could be wearing. Great for commuting if you don't have room in your bag to switch shoes!

I commute almost everywhere by bike so I have a few for different needs.

My main bike, the one I use for grocery shopping, camping, and commuting distances over 3 miles is a 90s Rockhopper mtb rebuild set up to run 700c-32 road wheels http://imgur.com/To82YWK or 26in-2.4 fatties http://imgur.com/T1RL9tg. I'll thank Paul V-brakes for the ability to switch rim brake wheels in ~5 min.

For quick, short, and minimal gear commutes I ride a Fuji Feather single speed. (I rode fixed for a couple years and while I love it, my knees like to coast). http://imgur.com/c5DgYhW

For travel, or when I want to ride somewhere and go home drunk, or when I get a ride somewhere and want to ride home, I have a modded Brompton. After being totally bummed out by the Brompton's gearing I swapped it out to an 11 speed IGH. Much better. http://imgur.com/8THV0Vu and http://imgur.com/6cbE1aS

All of my commuters are set up with an AirZound, a ridiculously loud compressed air horn you can refill with a bike pump. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdm_wom5wb03ET7M4

On Amazon US, this seems to be the best deal. I own it and it works pretty fine. It's also a must if you ever want to build a frame up from scratch.

I know some might disagree with me, but I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/VENZO-Bicycle-Torque-Wrench-Socket/dp/B00811WQT8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493642589&sr=8-1&keywords=venzo+torque

It seems to do a great job. I am not sure of its accuracy, but even if it is slightly off I am okay with that. If I torque something to 5nm, and it is actually 4 or 6 I think thats okay. My main concern before getting it was that I was torquing things that should be 5nm to 15nm because of not having a way to gauge how hard I was pushing. I think it only "clicks" in one direction so it is not perfect for torquing lets say my BB on the drive side that threads opposite. But for daily use it seems to be great and not super expensive. But if you have the disposable income to spend, get the park tools version.

I posted this at r/cycling with no responses so I'll try here since it seems more active.

I am in need of a light (soon).

I am starting to ride my bike to work, and with winter setting in I'll be riding in the dark when it's not freezing out. I ran across these two lights on Amazon, are they any good?

1st choice: http://www.amazon.com/Best-Rechargeable-Lumen-Bicycle-Light/dp/B00GJZ015Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1410199224&sr=1-1

2nd choice: http://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-LIFETIME-GUARANTEE-SHIPPING-INTENSITY/dp/B00GGR0XD0/ref=sr_1_3?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1410199224&sr=1-3

Those were the top two ranked so I'm not married to them, just trying to get a feel for what I should look at.

I'm riding on streets/frontage roads for 10 miles each way, about 40 minutes of ride time each way. I'm not opposed to an external battery pack. If it matters my bike is a Trek 3900 that is a few years old.

Thanks!

Ive been using these to great success: Shimano A530 Yet another half and half solution.

And an Airzound horn when a bell isn't loud enough. I started off with just an Airzound, but it scares the shit out of pedestrians and isn't really appropriate if you only want to announce your presence, so I bought this bell for $9 and save my horn for people with headphones, people blocking the path who don't react to the bell, and cars. The bell is very elegant, and most people seem to recognize two quick bell rings as a bicycle approaching. Yelling is still better than risking an accident by silently zooming by a pedestrian or cyclist who has no idea you're coming, but my rides are more pleasant with the bell.

I have one of these little wedge bags that goes under my seat, like this one:
http://www.rei.com/product/722362/topeak-micro-wedge-seat-pack

In it, I keep one of these little tools: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037N32VG

It has a lot of things you might need for a quick repair, including a chain-breaker.

I also keep a 3-set of tire levers and the same little patches that mnorri recommends (I think), like these: http://www.rei.com/product/742967/slime-skabs-pre-glued-patch-kit

I also have a couple zipties because you never know when you might need one.

My commute is only 3 miles, so I don't carry a tube, but I probably should consider it for longer rides.

And I had one of these on my last bike. I never had to use it, but it was small and fitted on the back side of my seat tube, just in front of the tire, so it didn't get in the way of anything: http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Update-Survival-Holding-Clamp/dp/B004ZDL2O6

For my general riding, I actually have a trunk bag on my rack and keep things like a first aid kit, eyeglass case and cleaner, sun block, spare batteries (for my lights), and now that the weather's turning, a rain jacket, and such. But the trunk bag slides of easily so I can take it in stores with me. The little wedge bag just stays on my bike.

Edit: I also carry a small pump, mounted on my downtube: http://www.rei.com/product/784569/topeak-peak-master-blaster-dx-ii-mini-pump

Clearly I'm not one of those riders trying to have the lightest ride possible.

Just lock it properly. Sturdy u-lock and a cable. The goal is to make it not worth a thief's time. So a more expensive bike requires more sophisticated deterrents.

Priorities when locking:

1. U-lock through frame, one wheel, and rack; cable through other wheel
   
2. U-lock through frame and rack; cable through wheels
   
3. Worst case scenario: cable through frame and wheels; u-lock to rack
   
   ---
   
   An example of the lock/cable setup can be found here: amazon
   
   Personally, I use a slim u-lock like this because it's lighter, but it has the draw back of being more difficult to find the right fit for some racks.
   
   If you would like to know more on the topic this video is a great resource.

I went clipless rather recently (yesterday). Go to your LBS, get an accurate shoe size and pick em up online cuz you have more choice and reviews. Good ones come at around 70-100. I bought these guys for 90 bucks and shimano m520's for 30 bucks. Good stuff. Just love them.