(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best sports & outdoors cycling

Truth is, the best preparation you can do is to acclimate by riding in the cold weather - you'll get used to it.
Having said that, I use certain pieces of gear that really help me out. Here are a few key pieces...

Pogies - insulated bar mitt covers. The go over your handle bars and cut the wind, but are also insulated. You still wear a glove, but this is far better than just a glove or mitt.
Check this site out...
https://bikepacking.com/gear/pogies/

Next, you need to have good head covering.
I use OR Windstopper Balaclava
https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/en/sonic-balaclava/p/2435420001006

Ski goggles are a must.

Wool tube scarf for your neck.

For your torso and chest, you need to layer:
Base layer - I choose merino wool. There are basically 3 thicknesses to choose from.
Wool keeps you warm even if you sweat, dries well, doesn't stink.

Next, insulating layer or layers.
Something warm like a shirt + Polartec jacket - again, 3 different thicknesses depending on you and how cold you get.
Long johns / fleece pants.

Last layer is a shell with at least a wind panel on the front. Gore Windstopper is my #1 choice, but I have many different jackets. I prefer jackets that have pit zips (zippers in the arm pits) so I can ventilate excess heat.

My cycling pants have a wind panel on the front to stop the wind.

Wool socks.
Darn Tough, a Vermont company, guarantees their socks for life - if they ever wear out, they will replace them for free.

Good boots, nothing too big. If you use a cycling shoe, there are insulated covers available for winter use or even winter cycling boots.

Whatever you do - don't let yourself sweat.
You need to find the balance point of being warm without sweating. If you sweat, you will become cold.

It all becomes an attempt at equilibrium - finding that comfortable warm spot without overheating & sweating, or allowing yourself to get cold.

Protect exposed skin especially your face, nose, ears, & cheeks.
Goggles keep your eyes warm, your lashes free from frost, and prevent your eyes from tearing. The polarised lenses help you see better.

As for your bike.
Studded tires - check out Schwalbe tires - actually may help, otherwise a winter tire with a winter rubber compound should do the trick.
Do you necessarily count on your knobby MTN bike tires doing a good job, the rubber may become too hard to properly grip the road or ice.

Lights...go with something detachable that uses a standard battery. Bring your light in to keep it warm.

I'm currently using:

Rear light: Portland Design Works Danger Zone Tail Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00435IPFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-uj5CbV3JHJA6

And a Planet Bike Blaze Front light X 2.

Www.PlanetBike.com

Keep your bike clean - wash the salt off regularly.
CLEAN AND LUBE YOUR CHAIN AND DRIVETRAIN.

At the end of winter, give your bike a deep cleaning.
Change your cables.
Undo your headset, crank, wheel hubs, clean the bearings and repack with new clean grease.
Tune your derailleurs.
Check your chain for stretch and replace if needed.
Check you rear derailleur hangar.
Spray done tube saver in your down tube and you're ready for summer.

Check out these sites for gear.

Www.MEC.ca

Www.Rei.com

Www.Bikepacking.com

on YouTube: GCN & GMBN

Hope the info helps.
Cheers,

There's a lot of good info here, but I disagree with some of it.

• Don't get slicks if you're commuting in a city. You will get flats and it will be a giant pain in the ass. The improvement in handling and efficiency isn't worth it for commuting. Get something a bit thicker and with some decent tread, and make sure they have kevlar linings. Studs are for snow, not rain. Glass, rocks, metal bits, etc. all penetrate slicks very easily (I'm not sold on gatorskins - I've seen them get many a flat). I commuted on slicks for awhile before I got fed up with flats every week. Don't bother getting separate tire liners. Go to your local bike shop (LBS) and talk about this with them.
  
  
• Not sure what "half clips" are, but if you're referring to clipless pedals, I completely agree. You don't have to spend a lot of money though. These Shimanos took me across the country and I use them every day on my commuter. I've put 4,000+ miles on them with 0 maintenance and no issues whatsoever. The tension is super easy to adjust with a hex wrench, meaning you control how hard it is to unclip. The downside is that they're too small to use comfortably if you're not wearing your bike shoes, but I don't find it to be much of an issue. Also, mtn bike shoes have a recessed cleat, which makes them a hell of a lot easier to walk around in when you're just going to the grocery store or running errands.
  
  
• I also commute in normal clothes, but when I go for serious rides I definitely wear lycra. Once you ride a few hours in any sort of heat, you'll understand. Trust me, I don't think it looks good either, but not being drenched in sweat and full of saddle sores at the end of a long ride is absolutely worth it. This is sort of an aside though - don't worry about it for commutes less than 10-15 miles or so.
  
  
• You don't necessarily need a bike-specific rain jacket, but they sure are nice, and not necessarily more expensive. Look for at least 2 layers if you want water proof, and ventilation is really nice. 1 layer will seep water onto any cloth that touches it. I've come in to work a couple times with soaked sleeves (my jacket has 2 layers, but only 1 layer sleeves - getting a new one soon).
  
  
• Leather saddles are 100% worth the money. Just get a Brooks B17 (Imperial if you're a dude) and a jar of proofide, and call it a day. It will literally last your entire life. Don't ride it in the rain though - cover it with something.
  
  
• WRT a strobe light, pick up a Planet Bike Superflash. There's a turbo too, but I've never actually seen it in person. The Superflash is extraordinarily bright, dead simple to use, and tough as a rock. This is another piece of gear that survived my cross country trip. In fact, just the other week my saddle bag broke and the light went crashing to the pavement as I was doing ~20mph, bounced around a bunch, and kept on blinking with only superficial scrapes. Highly recommended. My headlight is a POS that I inherited from my road bike's previous owner but seems to get the job done (keeps me visible), so I can't really make any strong recommendations here.
  
  
• As to helmets, go to your LBS and get whatever's comfortable, inexpensive, and looks decent (I'm convinced no helmets look good). I spent $60 I think on mine, and it's just fine. More expensive helmets don't necessarily protect you better, but they will offer more ventilation. Not a huge deal for a commuter. The most important thing with helmets is to make sure it's properly positioned and adjusted. That is, it should be forward on your head covering your forehead, and the strap should be quite tight around your chin. You should be able to shake your head around without the helmet moving much.
  
  Good bike gear will last a very, very long time, especially if you're only commuting, and can make a huge difference not only to your enjoyment but also your safety. If you're using it nearly every day, spend the money once and get high quality stuff. And head over to r/bicycling to talk to people who know a lot more than I do. Also talk to the guys at your LBS. Enjoy and good luck!

>Running errands: Right now, I take my bike to the grocery store 60% of the time. But an average bike right off the sales floor isn’t equipped for hauling even a small amount of groceries, and if you don’t want to ride back home with your knees banging the shopping bags hanging from your handlebars, you’ll need to add some accessories to your bike before biking your groceries home isn’t a gigantic pain in the ass.
>
> Rack: Pretty simple. Putting a rack on your bike massively extends its utility. You can hang a pannier (more on them later) from the rack instead of using a backpack, keeping your back sweat-free. With the addidion of a bungee cord or more permanent strap system, you can hold things on top of it. If your bike has disc brakes, you may need a wider rack to accommodate the extra wide axle. Also, some bikes with unusual geometry may require extra-long bars for installing the rack. This and the folding basket below are probably the trickiest accessories to install, and where you might be better off having them professionally installed.
>
> Folding basket: This was a major piece of the puzzle for me. I didn’t want my bike permanently widened out with a pair of baskets off the rack. But I also wanted to be prepared to stop and do some shopping on my way home without worrying about how I would carry everything. The folding rack was the perfect solution. When I need it, it unfolds in a couple seconds and I can put stuff in it. When I don’t need it, or space is tight, it folds up quickly and it’s more or less unnoticeable off the side of my bike. It means I can make unexpected stops while on my bike to pick up a few things without having to double back in my car later. I have this Wald one, and it’s very nice. It was quite a pain to install though. Be prepared for a bit of frustration if you go the DIY route. This was the one part of these accessory installs that I used a power tool.
>
> Pannier: I mentioned this one a bit under weather. The one I have and love is this Banjo Brothers waterproof pannier and backpack. It nearly effortlessly turns from one to the other and since it’s waterproof I can take it every time. The first time I biked to a shopping mall, locked my bike up, and turned my pannier to a backpack and went shopping, I felt like a goddamn superhero. This flexibility takes a lot of anxiety out of running errands on my bike.
>
> Water bottle cages: Pretty self-explanatory. Carry water with you when you bike. I have 2 mounted, one on the down tube at a diagonal, and one on the seat tube vertical. I can carry my coffee mug in there without spilling too much. You shouldn’t have to sacrifice your second cup of coffee just because you want to bike in.
>
> Compact shopping bags: Not really sure what to call these, other than the brand name I know, Chico Bags. They fold up into a small size and unfold quickly. You can get sling ones to go over your shoulder, or the smaller ones easily go into the folding basket. Just a good thing to with you for unexpected stops.
>
> Kickstand: A lot of people are surprised when bikes don’t automatically come with kickstands. And for a lot of people, a kickstand doesn’t make sense for the kind of riding they do. I am using my bike to commute, and am more interested in convenience than weight. I got a two-legged kickstand for added stability. Keep in mind, not every single bike will accept every kickstand. If you get one with a top plate like this standard one that every bike store carries, it will work for 90% of the bikes you would expect to take a kickstand. If you bought a $5,000 tri bike with areo bars and bladed spokes for reduced wind drag, you’re not going to get a kickstand on there, sorry. Also, kickstands come in a set length and may need to be cut down with a hacksaw to fit your bike. You should be able to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right without the bike falling over. If you don’t feel comfortable measuring and cutting a kickstand, consider taking it to a bike shop.
>
>Clothing/comfort: A pair of cushioned bike shorts makes a ride a lot more enjoyable. But they’re also a lot less comfortable for anything else you’re doing. Unless you’re going to bring a change of clothes with you, bike shorts aren’t a practical piece of attire once you step off your bike. It’s not necessary to get spandexed up to ride the bike, but casual clothing does present some barriers to biking. Here’s a couple common issues and how I address them.
>
> Comfortable saddle: We’re not talking about a carbon fiber road bike with skinny tires and aero bars here, we’re talking about a commuter bike. Hopefully you figured that out while installing the fenders, rack and folding basket. Saddles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. And second only to making sure you have the right sized bike, this is the single most important element for your comfort. Find a saddle that makes sense for the type of riding you do, and if that means it’s a gel-cushioned saddle, then go for it. Find one that doesn’t rely on the cushioned posterior of bike shorts to let you ride comfortably.
>
> Pedals/Shoes: This is a big one. If I had to stop and consider what kind of shoes I’m wearing when deciding to ride or drive, it would cut down my biking drastically. Here’s a secret: most bikes are sold with the cheapest pedals available. Even fancy bike shop bikes are shipped with cheapo pedals. Some, like $5,000 road bikes, aren’t shipped with any pedals at all, because they know that pedals are one of the first things serious riders replace. That means if you haven’t installed new pedals, your bike is probably equipped with cheap pedals that aren’t designed for the kind of riding you do or the shoes you will wear. Sometimes, just upgrading to a pair or metal pedals with more grip might do the trick. There are also systems with toe cages that will let you strap your feet in. I find these to be more of a pain than they’re worth. If you’re not going to strap your feet in for every ride, they’re a hassle as the added weight makes the cages naturally hang upside down. There’s also clipless systems, but those involve special shoes and cleat systems which are more complicated than the type of riding we’re discussing here. If you’ve ever seen someone in biker gear in the store or coffee shop and they click with every step like they’re wearing horseshoes, those are clipless shoes.
>
>What I recommend is a platform pedal like these I have a similar pair on my bike. They work and feel just like a normal bike pedal. Designed for winter adventure biking, the large pins grip effortlessly onto every kind of shoe for an effortless connection. I can ride my bike while wearing my heavy-duty safety toe boots without any problems. Some of the ones I saw on Amazon are just as cheap as any other pair of pedals. I would recommend at least getting metal ones.
>
>Pedals come in two standards, ½” and 9/16”. This measurement is the diameter of the spindle that screws into your crank. Kid’s bikes and BMX bikes are usually ½”, adult bikes are almost always 9/16”. Make sure the pedals you get are the correct spindle size. Swapping out pedals is fairly easy, every pedal I encountered will come off with either a 15mm wrench or 6mm Allen wrench. One thing to watch out for is the left pedal is reverse threaded. It will unscrew to the right and tighten to the left. Remember it with this simple mnemonic: Your left foot goes on the left pedal and it tightens to the left. Any pair of pedals you get will have the left and right clearly marked. Double-check it before installation to avoid an expensive problem.
>
>* Outerwear: Naturally the weather will be a bigger impact on your day if you’re biking rather than driving. Nice days are nicer, bad weather days are worse, and even the moderate days can be a bit challenging when you’re kitting up for some bike-based errands. If it’s one of those days where you can’t decide on short or long sleeves, biking can make these decisions even more difficult. Chilly days get chillier once you start pedaling at 10-15 miles per hour, but bundle up too much and you can overheat. The real problem here is the wind of your own passage. A fluffy sweatshirt can keep you warm when you’re walking along, but wind can blow right through it. I recommend a light windbreaker like this one I found in REI’s Outlet. It will keep the wind off, but is light enough to keep you from overheating on those days where the sun is playing peekaboo. An added benefit of paying a bit more for bike specific gear is they’re often designed with high-visibility stripes for extra safety. It’s far from fashionable, but you can get a hi-vis vest pretty cheap. They’re lightweight to not really impact your ride and can be easily stowed if you want to stop catching everyone’s eye once you step off your bike.
>

>Running errands: Right now, I take my bike to the grocery store 60% of the time. But an average bike right off the sales floor isn’t equipped for hauling even a small amount of groceries, and if you don’t want to ride back home with your knees banging the shopping bags hanging from your handlebars, you’ll need to add some accessories to your bike before biking your groceries home isn’t a gigantic pain in the ass.
>
> Rack: Pretty simple. Putting a rack on your bike massively extends its utility. You can hang a pannier (more on them later) from the rack instead of using a backpack, keeping your back sweat-free. With the addidion of a bungee cord or more permanent strap system, you can hold things on top of it. If your bike has disc brakes, you may need a wider rack to accommodate the extra wide axle. Also, some bikes with unusual geometry may require extra-long bars for installing the rack. This and the folding basket below are probably the trickiest accessories to install, and where you might be better off having them professionally installed.
>
> Folding basket: This was a major piece of the puzzle for me. I didn’t want my bike permanently widened out with a pair of baskets off the rack. But I also wanted to be prepared to stop and do some shopping on my way home without worrying about how I would carry everything. The folding rack was the perfect solution. When I need it, it unfolds in a couple seconds and I can put stuff in it. When I don’t need it, or space is tight, it folds up quickly and it’s more or less unnoticeable off the side of my bike. It means I can make unexpected stops while on my bike to pick up a few things without having to double back in my car later. I have this Wald one, and it’s very nice. It was quite a pain to install though. Be prepared for a bit of frustration if you go the DIY route. This was the one part of these accessory installs that I used a power tool.
>
> Pannier: I mentioned this one a bit under weather. The one I have and love is this Banjo Brothers waterproof pannier and backpack. It nearly effortlessly turns from one to the other and since it’s waterproof I can take it every time. The first time I biked to a shopping mall, locked my bike up, and turned my pannier to a backpack and went shopping, I felt like a goddamn superhero. This flexibility takes a lot of anxiety out of running errands on my bike.
>
> Water bottle cages: Pretty self-explanatory. Carry water with you when you bike. I have 2 mounted, one on the down tube at a diagonal, and one on the seat tube vertical. I can carry my coffee mug in there without spilling too much. You shouldn’t have to sacrifice your second cup of coffee just because you want to bike in.
>
> Compact shopping bags: Not really sure what to call these, other than the brand name I know, Chico Bags. They fold up into a small size and unfold quickly. You can get sling ones to go over your shoulder, or the smaller ones easily go into the folding basket. Just a good thing to with you for unexpected stops.
>
> Kickstand: A lot of people are surprised when bikes don’t automatically come with kickstands. And for a lot of people, a kickstand doesn’t make sense for the kind of riding they do. I am using my bike to commute, and am more interested in convenience than weight. I got a two-legged kickstand for added stability. Keep in mind, not every single bike will accept every kickstand. If you get one with a top plate like this standard one that every bike store carries, it will work for 90% of the bikes you would expect to take a kickstand. If you bought a $5,000 tri bike with areo bars and bladed spokes for reduced wind drag, you’re not going to get a kickstand on there, sorry. Also, kickstands come in a set length and may need to be cut down with a hacksaw to fit your bike. You should be able to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right without the bike falling over. If you don’t feel comfortable measuring and cutting a kickstand, consider taking it to a bike shop.
>
>Clothing/comfort: A pair of cushioned bike shorts makes a ride a lot more enjoyable. But they’re also a lot less comfortable for anything else you’re doing. Unless you’re going to bring a change of clothes with you, bike shorts aren’t a practical piece of attire once you step off your bike. It’s not necessary to get spandexed up to ride the bike, but casual clothing does present some barriers to biking. Here’s a couple common issues and how I address them.
>
> Comfortable saddle: We’re not talking about a carbon fiber road bike with skinny tires and aero bars here, we’re talking about a commuter bike. Hopefully you figured that out while installing the fenders, rack and folding basket. Saddles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. And second only to making sure you have the right sized bike, this is the single most important element for your comfort. Find a saddle that makes sense for the type of riding you do, and if that means it’s a gel-cushioned saddle, then go for it. Find one that doesn’t rely on the cushioned posterior of bike shorts to let you ride comfortably.
>
> Pedals/Shoes: This is a big one. If I had to stop and consider what kind of shoes I’m wearing when deciding to ride or drive, it would cut down my biking drastically. Here’s a secret: most bikes are sold with the cheapest pedals available. Even fancy bike shop bikes are shipped with cheapo pedals. Some, like $5,000 road bikes, aren’t shipped with any pedals at all, because they know that pedals are one of the first things serious riders replace. That means if you haven’t installed new pedals, your bike is probably equipped with cheap pedals that aren’t designed for the kind of riding you do or the shoes you will wear. Sometimes, just upgrading to a pair or metal pedals with more grip might do the trick. There are also systems with toe cages that will let you strap your feet in. I find these to be more of a pain than they’re worth. If you’re not going to strap your feet in for every ride, they’re a hassle as the added weight makes the cages naturally hang upside down. There’s also clipless systems, but those involve special shoes and cleat systems which are more complicated than the type of riding we’re discussing here. If you’ve ever seen someone in biker gear in the store or coffee shop and they click with every step like they’re wearing horseshoes, those are clipless shoes.
>
>What I recommend is a platform pedal like these I have a similar pair on my bike. They work and feel just like a normal bike pedal. Designed for winter adventure biking, the large pins grip effortlessly onto every kind of shoe for an effortless connection. I can ride my bike while wearing my heavy-duty safety toe boots without any problems. Some of the ones I saw on Amazon are just as cheap as any other pair of pedals. I would recommend at least getting metal ones.
>
>Pedals come in two standards, ½” and 9/16”. This measurement is the diameter of the spindle that screws into your crank. Kid’s bikes and BMX bikes are usually ½”, adult bikes are almost always 9/16”. Make sure the pedals you get are the correct spindle size. Swapping out pedals is fairly easy, every pedal I encountered will come off with either a 15mm wrench or 6mm Allen wrench. One thing to watch out for is the left pedal is reverse threaded. It will unscrew to the right and tighten to the left. Remember it with this simple mnemonic: Your left foot goes on the left pedal and it tightens to the left. Any pair of pedals you get will have the left and right clearly marked. Double-check it before installation to avoid an expensive problem.
>
>* Outerwear: Naturally the weather will be a bigger impact on your day if you’re biking rather than driving. Nice days are nicer, bad weather days are worse, and even the moderate days can be a bit challenging when you’re kitting up for some bike-based errands. If it’s one of those days where you can’t decide on short or long sleeves, biking can make these decisions even more difficult. Chilly days get chillier once you start pedaling at 10-15 miles per hour, but bundle up too much and you can overheat. The real problem here is the wind of your own passage. A fluffy sweatshirt can keep you warm when you’re walking along, but wind can blow right through it. I recommend a light windbreaker like this one I found in REI’s Outlet. It will keep the wind off, but is light enough to keep you from overheating on those days where the sun is playing peekaboo. An added benefit of paying a bit more for bike specific gear is they’re often designed with high-visibility stripes for extra safety. It’s far from fashionable, but you can get a hi-vis vest pretty cheap. They’re lightweight to not really impact your ride and can be easily stowed if you want to stop catching everyone’s eye once you step off your bike.
>

>Running errands: Right now, I take my bike to the grocery store 60% of the time. But an average bike right off the sales floor isn’t equipped for hauling even a small amount of groceries, and if you don’t want to ride back home with your knees banging the shopping bags hanging from your handlebars, you’ll need to add some accessories to your bike before biking your groceries home isn’t a gigantic pain in the ass.
>
> Rack: Pretty simple. Putting a rack on your bike massively extends its utility. You can hang a pannier (more on them later) from the rack instead of using a backpack, keeping your back sweat-free. With the addidion of a bungee cord or more permanent strap system, you can hold things on top of it. If your bike has disc brakes, you may need a wider rack to accommodate the extra wide axle. Also, some bikes with unusual geometry may require extra-long bars for installing the rack. This and the folding basket below are probably the trickiest accessories to install, and where you might be better off having them professionally installed.
>
> Folding basket: This was a major piece of the puzzle for me. I didn’t want my bike permanently widened out with a pair of baskets off the rack. But I also wanted to be prepared to stop and do some shopping on my way home without worrying about how I would carry everything. The folding rack was the perfect solution. When I need it, it unfolds in a couple seconds and I can put stuff in it. When I don’t need it, or space is tight, it folds up quickly and it’s more or less unnoticeable off the side of my bike. It means I can make unexpected stops while on my bike to pick up a few things without having to double back in my car later. I have this Wald one, and it’s very nice. It was quite a pain to install though. Be prepared for a bit of frustration if you go the DIY route. This was the one part of these accessory installs that I used a power tool.
>
> Pannier: I mentioned this one a bit under weather. The one I have and love is this Banjo Brothers waterproof pannier and backpack. It nearly effortlessly turns from one to the other and since it’s waterproof I can take it every time. The first time I biked to a shopping mall, locked my bike up, and turned my pannier to a backpack and went shopping, I felt like a goddamn superhero. This flexibility takes a lot of anxiety out of running errands on my bike.
>
> Water bottle cages: Pretty self-explanatory. Carry water with you when you bike. I have 2 mounted, one on the down tube at a diagonal, and one on the seat tube vertical. I can carry my coffee mug in there without spilling too much. You shouldn’t have to sacrifice your second cup of coffee just because you want to bike in.
>
> Compact shopping bags: Not really sure what to call these, other than the brand name I know, Chico Bags. They fold up into a small size and unfold quickly. You can get sling ones to go over your shoulder, or the smaller ones easily go into the folding basket. Just a good thing to with you for unexpected stops.
>
> Kickstand: A lot of people are surprised when bikes don’t automatically come with kickstands. And for a lot of people, a kickstand doesn’t make sense for the kind of riding they do. I am using my bike to commute, and am more interested in convenience than weight. I got a two-legged kickstand for added stability. Keep in mind, not every single bike will accept every kickstand. If you get one with a top plate like this standard one that every bike store carries, it will work for 90% of the bikes you would expect to take a kickstand. If you bought a $5,000 tri bike with areo bars and bladed spokes for reduced wind drag, you’re not going to get a kickstand on there, sorry. Also, kickstands come in a set length and may need to be cut down with a hacksaw to fit your bike. You should be able to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right without the bike falling over. If you don’t feel comfortable measuring and cutting a kickstand, consider taking it to a bike shop.
>
>Clothing/comfort: A pair of cushioned bike shorts makes a ride a lot more enjoyable. But they’re also a lot less comfortable for anything else you’re doing. Unless you’re going to bring a change of clothes with you, bike shorts aren’t a practical piece of attire once you step off your bike. It’s not necessary to get spandexed up to ride the bike, but casual clothing does present some barriers to biking. Here’s a couple common issues and how I address them.
>
> Comfortable saddle: We’re not talking about a carbon fiber road bike with skinny tires and aero bars here, we’re talking about a commuter bike. Hopefully you figured that out while installing the fenders, rack and folding basket. Saddles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. And second only to making sure you have the right sized bike, this is the single most important element for your comfort. Find a saddle that makes sense for the type of riding you do, and if that means it’s a gel-cushioned saddle, then go for it. Find one that doesn’t rely on the cushioned posterior of bike shorts to let you ride comfortably.
>
> Pedals/Shoes: This is a big one. If I had to stop and consider what kind of shoes I’m wearing when deciding to ride or drive, it would cut down my biking drastically. Here’s a secret: most bikes are sold with the cheapest pedals available. Even fancy bike shop bikes are shipped with cheapo pedals. Some, like $5,000 road bikes, aren’t shipped with any pedals at all, because they know that pedals are one of the first things serious riders replace. That means if you haven’t installed new pedals, your bike is probably equipped with cheap pedals that aren’t designed for the kind of riding you do or the shoes you will wear. Sometimes, just upgrading to a pair or metal pedals with more grip might do the trick. There are also systems with toe cages that will let you strap your feet in. I find these to be more of a pain than they’re worth. If you’re not going to strap your feet in for every ride, they’re a hassle as the added weight makes the cages naturally hang upside down. There’s also clipless systems, but those involve special shoes and cleat systems which are more complicated than the type of riding we’re discussing here. If you’ve ever seen someone in biker gear in the store or coffee shop and they click with every step like they’re wearing horseshoes, those are clipless shoes.
>
>What I recommend is a platform pedal like these I have a similar pair on my bike. They work and feel just like a normal bike pedal. Designed for winter adventure biking, the large pins grip effortlessly onto every kind of shoe for an effortless connection. I can ride my bike while wearing my heavy-duty safety toe boots without any problems. Some of the ones I saw on Amazon are just as cheap as any other pair of pedals. I would recommend at least getting metal ones.
>
>Pedals come in two standards, ½” and 9/16”. This measurement is the diameter of the spindle that screws into your crank. Kid’s bikes and BMX bikes are usually ½”, adult bikes are almost always 9/16”. Make sure the pedals you get are the correct spindle size. Swapping out pedals is fairly easy, every pedal I encountered will come off with either a 15mm wrench or 6mm Allen wrench. One thing to watch out for is the left pedal is reverse threaded. It will unscrew to the right and tighten to the left. Remember it with this simple mnemonic: Your left foot goes on the left pedal and it tightens to the left. Any pair of pedals you get will have the left and right clearly marked. Double-check it before installation to avoid an expensive problem.
>
>* Outerwear: Naturally the weather will be a bigger impact on your day if you’re biking rather than driving. Nice days are nicer, bad weather days are worse, and even the moderate days can be a bit challenging when you’re kitting up for some bike-based errands. If it’s one of those days where you can’t decide on short or long sleeves, biking can make these decisions even more difficult. Chilly days get chillier once you start pedaling at 10-15 miles per hour, but bundle up too much and you can overheat. The real problem here is the wind of your own passage. A fluffy sweatshirt can keep you warm when you’re walking along, but wind can blow right through it. I recommend a light windbreaker like this one I found in REI’s Outlet. It will keep the wind off, but is light enough to keep you from overheating on those days where the sun is playing peekaboo. An added benefit of paying a bit more for bike specific gear is they’re often designed with high-visibility stripes for extra safety. It’s far from fashionable, but you can get a hi-vis vest pretty cheap. They’re lightweight to not really impact your ride and can be easily stowed if you want to stop catching everyone’s eye once you step off your bike.
>

Posting pictures of the bike would be helpful. If you decide to do this, make sure to post a few high quality shots of your drivetrain which could show us if there's any critical wear.

However, before you post the pictures, it would be helpful to clean the bike. Get a bucket of soapy water, find a sponge or rag that you don't mind sacrificing and get to cleaning your mountain bike. Dry it off, and then post the pictures (that will make any critical deficiencies more obvious).

As others have mentioned, you'll most likely need to remove the chain. Here's a video from one of the best cycling channels on Youtube, Global Cycling Network (GCN), that shows you exactly how to do that. GCN and its sister channel, Global Mountain Bike Network (GMBN) offer a number of fantastic maintenance videos in addition to a variety of other content. If you're wondering where to get a chain tool, I would just spend a bit of extra money and get a good multi tool like the Crank Brothers multi tool which already comes with one.

Pump up the tires to see if they still hold air. If they do, fantastic. Nothing more needs to be done. If not, you'll need to get new tubes (most likely your mountain bike will need 26 in X 1.9-2.125 in tubes). Here's how to install a new tube.


As a bike commuter, you'll need a number of things to stay safe and make sure your bike stays in your hands. Here are the essentials:

1. Front and rear lights. I use this flashlight for my front light, and a rear light similar to this.
   
   
2. A helmet. From your posting history, you seem to live in Australia. All helmets sold in that country are required to meet the same safety standards so in all likelihood, spending more on a helmet will not make you safer. Buy one in a store and you're set.
   
   
3. A great bike lock. Read this to learn the proper way to lock your bike.
   
   However, staying safe is only the first part. You'll want or need a number of other items to make sure that your commute isn't frustrating. Here are some of the items off of the top of my head.
   
   
4. Bike pump. If you're going to mostly ride near gas stations which have air pumps that can inflate a tube, you probably don't need to carry around a mini pump on your rides. However, everyone should own a floor pump.
   
   
5. Degreaser. The cheap automotive kind is fine as is WD 40. This is used when you need to clean the drivetrain.
   
   
6. Bike lube. Stick with a bike specific one.
   
   
7. Disposable poncho. When I lived in an area where it often rained, I always had a dollar store disposable poncho in my backpack. It's just super handy if there's an unexpected downpour.
   
   
8. Fenders. I personally don't have them, but I live in a relatively dry climate. If you live in a place where it always rains, they're super helpful.
   
   
9. Bottle cage. A cheap plastic one is fine.
   
   
10. Tire levers.
    
    
11. Rear rack. Assuming you don't have a full suspension mountain bike and instead have a hard tail (here's an article if you're unsure), get a rear rack. Do not get one that is only mounted to the seat post like this Ibera, but rather one that connects to the bike frame. If your bike does not have any bolts that can attach, you can use P clamps to secure the rack. This post describes how to do just that.
    
    
12. Some way to transport groceries. While I use a milk crate that I ziptied onto my rear rack with bungee cords on top of the crate (similar to this setup), many others use panniers to transport groceries and other goods. This has the benefit of more storage, better center of gravity, and can be water proof. However, they are usually much more expensive unless you go the DIY route.
    
    
13. Bike bell. Cars won't be able to hear you, but if you ride in areas with lots of pedestrians or other cyclists, it's useful.
    
    
14. Spare tube. Fortunately 26 in tubes are cheap and super easy to find. Any department store with a bike section will carry them.
    
    /r/bikecommuting can be a helpful resource if you have other questions.

Hey there! I ride that leg very frequently - it is R38 / South Dakota Ave. Yes, it is dedicated shoulder riding, but the shoulder is widened more than a usual highway's would be. I would recommend it over gravel for one major reason: drivers expect bikers to be there. During a good summer day you'll encounter 5-10 bikers in the 10-mile stretch; all regular drivers in the area will be aware that bikes are on the shoulder.

Must-have #1: get a good helmet-mounted mirror (I use this one) and continuously assess the situation area you. Be especially vigilant about people passing other cars. IMO having you, a car, and another car all in a line together is a great way to die. If I see a car swing out to pass another car near me, I usually give a very clear "stop" hand signal to indicate I want them to wait until they are clear of me. Some oblige, some don't.

Must have #2: set up a safety rule and follow it. Mine is that I watch for an approaching car and if at any point their tire touches the solid white line into the shoulder, I hard brake and remove myself from the road. Thankfully, that's only happened once, and in that particular case the driver did start moving towards the center line as he approached, though I had already begun stopping.

Must have #3: get a very bright flashing rear light and use it during the day while on the highway. I have to admit to you that mine isn't bright enough, but reading this made me realize I need to get one purchased before the season starts back up, so I think I'm going to give this guy a try.

If you do the things above I think you'll find the ride up very enjoyable. Good luck and stay safe!

Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.

So parts list of stuff to buy

Cassette:

https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-Nickel-Plated-Cassette/dp/B00DI65HGU

Chain:

https://www.amazon.com/X8-99-Bicycle-Chain-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B0013BV540

You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour

Tires:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Crossmark-Black-Fold-Tires/dp/B00GHTQ7Q4?th=1&psc=1 (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)

Shifters:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SL-M360-Acera-Shifter-Speed/dp/B001ON6VIW

(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)

Brake pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)

New cables:

https://www.amazon.com/JAGWIRE-MOUNTAIN-SHOP-KIT-Derailleur/dp/B01DJGUEE8

You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.

Tools:

You could get a tool kit like one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrelli-Bike-Multi-Tool-V19/dp/B06XGWMGB9

And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Freewheel-Sprocket-Lockring-Maintenance/dp/B07GSRJGP3

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-1847-Bicycle-Tire-Levers/dp/B000UAQL6C

That might be the way to go.

That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.

Apologies for using amazon.com links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from

Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.

But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...

• cheap tool set ($40) (total $40)
  
• torque wrench ($50) (total $90)
  
• chain cleaning tool ($10) (total $100)
  
• cable cutting tool ($35) (total $135)
  
• maybe chain pliers? ($10) (total $145)
  
  At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools
  
  
• some nice metric hex tools ($15) (total $160)
  
• some torx equivalents ($11) (total $171)
  
  Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier
  
  
• tire levers ($9) (total $180)
  
  If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.
  
  
• Portable multi-tool ($25) (total $210)
  
  I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)
  
  
• work gloves ($20) (total $230)
  
  There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.
  
  And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.
  
  Best of luck
  
  edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!

I was terrified too OP, I actually made a post myself not to long ago. I'm really happy I went through with it, the fear never goes away but it does get better. So far I've not had any accidents nor gotten hit. Like everyone says, make sure you're visible and you are predictable. Know the hand turn signals, get a reflective yellow vest and wear it every time you ride, same with lights. Consider a review mirror that attaches to your helmet or glasses. I was skeptical at first, but it is really helpful and does help a bit with anxiety. Make sure to still look over your shoulder though.

It might be good to start out small too, ride some bike paths if you have any near you (and if you can take them to where you need to go, do so. I find them better myself, I'm lucky that most of my commute to school is on a bike path. Wish my work commute was the same way).

Good luck and have fun! It's been a lifechanger for me, I'm feeling better, getting fitter, and I think I might be loosing weight even. And it's a lot of fun.

This is my do everything bike, a 2015 Trek Crossrip Comp.

Performance-wise, it is stock, with the exception of the tires. I swapped out the Bontrager Hardcases that came with the bike and put on a pair of [Clement PDX cross tires] (http://clementcycling.com/pdx-clincher). There are lots of gravel trails around my area, and I wanted some grippier tires to handle them. They roll a little bit slower on pavement, but the difference off-road is incredible. This thing absolutely flies on gravel and dirt.

Some other additions include:

-[Ivation Bluetooth Speaker] (http://www.amazon.com/Ivation-Super-Portable-Rechargeable-Bluetooth-Speaker/dp/B00HVMIL1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409072570&sr=8-1&keywords=bicycle+speaker)- I like listening to music while riding, but earbuds make it difficult to hear what's going on around me. This speaker is a great alternative. It attaches to the handlebars with a stretchy strap, and is very secure. It has an aux input and a micro SD card slot, but the Bluetooth feature is really nice since I don't have to worry about wires getting tangled or where to put my phone.

-[Portland Design Works Danger Zone Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Danger-Light/dp/B00435IPFK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409072793&sr=8-2&keywords=portland+design+works+radbot+1000)- So cars don't run me over at night. Mounting it is super easy, and the light is extremely bright. It also quickly unhooks so I can take it with me and not worry about it getting stolen.

-[Diamondback LED Headlight] (http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=41624036&kw=diamondback+headlight&origkw=diamondback+headlight)- So I can see where I'm going at night, and so cars can see me. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but it seems pretty bright, and the price was good.

-[Blackburn Frame Pump] (http://www.blackburndesign.com/pumps/mountain-air-anyvalve-mini-pump.html#.U_y_7twWxO4)- So I can inflate my tires when needed, and because I like the look of a frame pump.

This is my first bike that isn't from a box box store, and I absolutely love it so far. It's my commuter, my cruiser, my off-roader, and whatever else I need it to be. I highly recommend the Crossrip line to anyone that is interested in it.

Hey guys I am looking for input on my current build. Tried to post earlier but it got removed without telling me why.

I originally bought the basic parts in fall of 2018 which included:

19" GT Agressor Pro from Dick's Sporting - $295

27.5" Conversion Kit 35MPH from LeafBike.com - $508.13

52v 14s9p-pf 25.7AH Triangle Battery Pack from EM3ev.com - $827.4

Rear Cargo Rack from Amazon - $25.99

SKS Velo Snap-on Fenders from Amazon - $21.65

BikeHand Toolkit from Amazon - $49.99

Shimano HG41 from Amazon - $16.70

Torque Arm from Amazon - $16.50

Park fr52 from REI - $7.15

Tire Liner from REI - $17

Tubes from Walmart - $20

Total $1825.51

Hot Damn! Never actually did the math that is quite a bit more than i thought it cost, I'm a little embarrassed I've been telling people that it cost around $1300 lol boy the shipping and tax just kills you!

Anyways it all arrived without issue (Thank goodness) and I put it together (minus the pedal assist due to a crank removal fiasco) with some difficulty as a number of things required modification to work. That rear wheel is an absolute biatch to install. I have had an absolute blast with it both on and off road since then. Only major gripe is with the controller, hella loud and super weak regen breaking.

Just recently decided to do some additional tweaking with the bike. Went on another spending spree over at Aliexpress. Ended up buying the following parts:

Pedals - $21.45

Longer Handlebar - $8.80

External Bearing Bottom Bracket and Cranks - 32.66

Four Pairs of Brake Pads - 5.29

3-Button switch - $27.49

Handlebar Grips - $2.66

Torque Arm - $8.35

Left hand thumb Throttle - $5.67

Lights DC 12v-48v - 20.89

42 tooth Chain ring - 17.60

Pannier - 30.51

1xSchwalbe MTB 27.5 2.25 - 50

Total $231.44

Already installed new bottom bracket and pedal assist (with some modification lol) and its amazing!

I am about to start getting into the electronics so i figured i would ask for advice before i solder everything up in case you guys come up with a better way to do things.

Anywho I am getting rid of those handle grips with the twist throttle in favor of a left handed throttle, this will allow me to shift on the rear cassette a lot easier. Then its on to replacing the super cheap switch (cruise, regen, reverse) with the Aliexpress switch (cruise, horn, lights, gonna short regen for always on) and add lights. Considering adding another on/off point for security but cant think of a great way to do that... Right now i have the BMS on/off at the battery itself (momentary switch) and the power on the LCD display itself.

Also anyone have a line on a cheap controller with strong regen breaking and sin wave fets? I see the ebikes.ca but looks like that requires cycle analyst v3 for pedal assist which doesnt seem to display information nicely plus itll cost around 265 for both...

Most bike lights concentrate the beam straight ahead or behind and don't do much to make you more visible from the side, and when navigating city traffic it's often quite a good thing to be seen from the side. Wheel reflectors are good, and I really think are advisable on both wheels though I prefer spoke reflectors such as these they shine up brighter than most reflectors in headlights but are probably less noticeable than reflectors in daylight.

An even brighter alternative is wheel mounted lights, I recently tried one of these and liked it enough to get some more from my wife and brother. Pretty small and light and surprisingly bright, really makes you much more visible from the side. The best feature is that they turn on automatically when it's dark and they sense movement so it's one less thing to remember to do when you set off. Only had them for a few days so can't say anything about reliability but for £6 I'm happy to risk it.

I'm riding this: http://i.imgur.com/Q1SewUi.jpg (Giant Defy 3)

I was lucky enough to get it on clearance, but it was in your price range and has all the mounts for a rack. Taking the rack and U-lock off makes it a pretty nice weekend warrior for longer rides, too.

I'm not using them, but I've heard nothing but good things about Ortliebs. If I ever have to buy new panniers, that's what I'll go with.

I use a Night Rider Lumina Micro 250 for my front light. It works fine, I just have to make sure I charge it. This is the tail light that I use. I can't confirm that either is the "best" but both work fine for my 7 mile morning commutes.

Other things that you might want to look into:

• A good U-lock, depending on what the situation is at work and whether or not you'll use the bike for anything else. Don't depend on a cheap cable lock, trust me.
  
• A cycle computer. I use a pretty cheap wired one, mostly so I can keep track of the time, but I like to try to keep my speed up, too.
  
• A seat bag for your spare tube, CO2, patches, tire levers, spoke wrench, and multi-tool. If you need extra storage space you can add one of these.
  
• Mini Pump (Yes, I keep CO2 and a pump on my bike)
  
• Water bottle cage and water bottle. (Depending on the length of your commute. I live in Phoenix, so this is pretty vital.)
  
• You might also want something waterproof for your phone. Where I live this isn't vital, but in some places it would be.
  
  
  I think that's all I use.

I would use a cable on the seat and wheels but to be honest with something over 1K I would get a better lock. Mainly the Kryptonite NY Standard. Just because the bike is going to be a bigger target to thieves. But it is your bike and your money.

You should look at getting a GPS in the frame, as you can find your bike and it acts as a deterrent.

Depending on how much you care about/need the bike I would also look at bike insurance. I use Velo Insurance, and they are pretty nice. The CEO will answer the phone they are a small company with great reviews.

Although the New York series of locks from kryptonite also offer insurance free for the first 3 years as /u/GoonCommaThe mentioned. Although make sure and read the restrictions carefully.

For just commuting and stuff I'd say go with a AA or AAA flashlight. they won't be as bright, but they will be much more versatile. Get some eneloops and you'll have a great system for years.

Personal favorite flashlight in the AAA dept is the Nebo Redline.

I know most people here like the Twofish Lock Blocks for holding the flashlight.

Or you could get the two as a combo.

That should be a good and easy to use system that's brighter than you really need for a price that's affordable.

btw, I'm leary of DealExtreme...they look fairly shady and there's not even specs for things like lumen output on a lot of those lights. Often you get what you pay for, and I'm guessing on those lights it's not worth the $8 you'd save.

For the pedals you currently have, it's going to be hard to find cleats, as these are rather old.

If you replace your pedals, you can even use mtb pedals (spd cleats) and mtb shoes. These are usually easier to walk on, but have the disadvantage of being less efficient for pedaling, but only slightly. If you go with proper road pedals, you're probably looking at 3-bolt patterned cleats, so your shoes should accept 3-bolt cleats. Of course, there's also 2-bolt patterned cleats for road bikes, like eggbeaters and spd (non-sl). And yes, you can get shoes that accept both type of cleats. The good news is that pedals usually come with cleats, if you're getting shoes at the same time, make sure they're compatible.


As for the bonus, check your tires, bar tape, maybe even the saddle. Definitely get your drivetrain checked, but that would have come back as recommended upgrades from your LBS.

Swapping pedals isn’t difficult, but would definitely be a tedious chore to do on a regular basis. One of the first things I did when I got my bike this past weekend was swap the pedals out for some Shimano SPD-SL pedals. They’re not very expensive and work great on the bike, but your mileage may vary.

As with all bike components there is a strong correlation between weight and price, the lighter an item the more it costs. If you decide to go the pedal route, don’t buy something top of the line. The weight doesn’t matter on a stationary bike like it does in an Ironman.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Here’s a link to those pedals if you’re interested:

Shimano SPD-SL PD R-540 - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P9TOHQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

No way 700c would fit.

I replaced the pads in the back and it's all good now, will do the front later so brakes are taken care of. I will probably get a SS chainring 48+ teeth for the front. Cleaned up the derailleur and its much better now, but I still gotta get it tuned by a shop (shifts great but skips 5 and 8)

Also, since my rear rack is taped on right now I was looking at getting this. From reviews a fender should fit underneath it. I've got the hole between the seat stays to mount a fender, but do you know of one that fits on disc brakes?

I haven't been able to find a rigid fork that has the correct axle to crown length, from what I've researched mine is 480mm and would shoot for a ~450mm fork. Would I need to get a 700c wheel and smaller fork to offset it? After that I'd look into a different handlebar or better bar ends, as the ones on it are 10 pounds and from a huffy.

Thanks for the help all, looks like I can salvage this.


This is my bike on bikepedia

It's an Origin 8 rack. It's alloy, so it's pretty light for the size of the platform. It's supposed to mount on a solid axle, but I figured out that chainring bolts fit inside the mounting holes perfectly, and the inner diameter of some allow an m5 bolt to fit perfectly. Works great this way.

Grab a pack of these https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

These invisible during the day, but super bright at night. Combine them with some reflective tape on the frame, bright lights, maybe some tyres with reflective sidewalls when the time comes to change them, plus bright clothes and you're super safe!

If weight is not an issue, you should get the Kryptonite New York Lock. I have it and have never had an issue with it. It's pretty much as secure as you'll get with a bike lock, without resorting to incredibly huge, heavy, unwieldy solutions. I live in Philly too, which has a ton of bike theft.

This looks to be even thicker and more secure, but I can't tell from the picture how large it actually is.

For the most security, the lock should be small, but big enough to put through the frame and back wheel, while still having room to accommodate the front wheel (which you should take off and lock with the back wheel and frame, provided it's a quick-release wheel- if it's not a quick release, then get one of the cables or an extra, tiny u-lock to lock the front wheel to the frame).

Take some time to look up the most secure ways to lock a bike. It doesn't matter how long you've been riding for- if you're unfamiliar with how to securely lock up a bike, having a better lock won't mean much. How you lock it up, where you lock it up, and what you lock it to are all important considerations.

And just know that there's no perfect solution. If somebody comes along with an angle-grinder, your bike is getting stolen no matter how many locks you have on it. Exercise good judgement in how long you keep it locked up in one place (as in, don't just leave it out overnight in a high-theft area if you can avoid it). And even having a great lock won't prevent somebody from taking your seat, handlebars, headlight, reflectors, fender/mud guard, water bottle, or anything else that might be on your bike but not chained down.

Yeah, basically always lock your back wheel and frame with a U-lock to a sturdy, stationary object (There are plenty of bike parking racks. NEVER lock your bike to just itself or another bike). That's bare minimum. That's usually sufficient if you're going to just be in class for an hour or two.

In Davis, cable locks are just a visual deterrent. They're essentially useless, especially if you have a nice bike.

If you have quick-release, either swap them out for regular wheels or be very vigilant about locking both wheels with U-locks.

If you have a nice bike, never park it outside at night on campus. Also, try not to leave your bike outside if you're going to be away (going home for the weekend, winter break, etc.). There are people who go hunting for bikes and bike parts at night and especially during breaks when nobody is around.

It's also a good idea to take a short chain/cable and thread it through your frame and bike seat, just so that's secure too.

Contrary to popular belief, bigger is not better when it comes to U-locks. You want the thickest, fattest, smallest U-lock possible that fits your bike. For example, this mini U-lock would probably do better than this standard U-lock. The idea is, the longer the U-lock, the more space it gives thieves to use for leverage to pry open your lock. I'm not sure if you buy into that, but mechanically it makes sense, and the smaller ones also happen to be cheaper too. Some of my friends with really nice bikes (think $500+) have two small, fat U-locks and they do their job well.

I've also heard that you do want two different types of locks (U-lock and a thick cable, for instance), because that means thieves have to carry two different tools to break the two different locks. This is up to you, and I still think two U-locks are fine.

You can call any bike shop and they'll help! It's worth a try at least. Good luck!

Well, so far people are just throwing out bike models. If you plan on touring, it is probably better not to get a pure road bike. Something like a cyclocross bike or one of Soma or Surly's options may suit your needs well. The only problem with that stipulation is that it severely cuts down your used options and your budget options for new bikes. It may be wise to broaden the options to "endurance geometry" road bikes, as many of those have rack points and longer chainstays to get the load weight closer from being behind the rear axle.

As for choosing a bike model, pick the reputable manufacturer's bike that fits you best. Different manufacturers have different geometries (e.g. Italian bikes tend to have shorter top tubes proportionally). It can be useful to scour the internet for sales. We're a little out of the "sale season" though, which occurs during fall as new model year bikes are coming out. Check performance bikes anyway (their business method is "always having a sale") along with the other internet folk that sell reliably good bikes.

Something like this, perhaps. Keep in mind if you want a rack, that one doesn't have rack points, but you can use something like the Axiom Streamliner Disc or P-clamps to get a standard rack mounted on there.

Edit: Ah I forgot, you may look into something from the "gravel" genre. Think a less-snappy cyclocross bike with rack mounts. If you like any of Surly or Soma's products (e.g. the Double Cross is probably the best frameset I can think of for your purposes), a build for one of those wouldn't be too bad. ~$500 for the frameset, get a 105 group from probikekit for $380, build a wheelset on a 105 hubset, and find some bits like stem, bars, saddle on sale and you're not looking too much over a thousand at least. Though you are looking at assembling the bike yourself, which requires some tools.

Pick up one of these brackets: Taillight Bracket

Then get any compatible light, such as: PDW Danger Zone or Nightrider Solas

The PDW Danger Zone is a better light, and cheaper, but the Nightrider is USB rechargeable. The PDW is better, because you can easily pair it with rechargeable AAA batteries. This allows you to replace the batteries as they wear out, toss a non-rechargeable battery in in a pinch. When used a couple hours a day, decent rechargeable batteries last over a full week. IMO rechargeable AAA > USB rechargeable.

Or, if you find a light you like with the standard CatEye-style rear light mount, there's this bracket that fits those: CatEye Rack Bracket CatEye mounts are square with small indents on the back, like this: CatEye Light (best picture I could find).

That said, depending on where you live, I'd really recommend looking into a dyno hub and dyno lighting. Lithium batteries really work poorly in the cold, and NiMH work only marginally better. With long, cold days coming, not relying on batteries is really nice. At the least, I'd recommend against lithium batteries if you live somewhere cold. Rechargeable NiMH aren't really that much bother, especially if you buy extras and have them in a charge-rotation...always fresh batteries.

Not to mention you end up momentarily taking your eyes off where you're heading in the time it takes to turn and turn back. It's remarkable how much "nervous energy" is saved from not having to check back as much as I used to. Of course, I still do shoulder checks before changing lines but it's very useful for situational awareness (just think of the number of times you've approached other cyclists and pedestrians like a ninja).

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/mirrors.html

http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/cyclingmirrors.htm

http://bicycletouringpro.com/blog/selecting-a-mirror-for-your-bicycle-tour/

http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26

Just a few links I went through before ultimately deciding on the "Take A Look" (compact) after comparing the reviews to see what would suit me (I ended up getting mine from ebay for what it's worth).

The 3rd link has one that attaches on your sunglasses lens, which I think is pretty neat (and not dorky) - but unfortunately, I don't wear sunglasses. I've also heard of ones that fit on the end of drop bars rather discretely. I wonder why the Tour de France pros don't make use of it in a poker-face sense - perhaps UCI has it banned??

Having a mirror allows me to "take the lane" so much more easily particularly when I know there isn't a car gaining up on me before I hear it through the rush of wind in my ears. Also handy for using up the whole narrow bike path without getting in anyone's way for greater visibility around bends, etc. And I haven't even mentioned silly commuter racing yet. ;)

You have a square taper bottom bracket. It's a common standard, they'll fit. Your biggest concern will be making sure the crank length is the same (probably 175mm, you'll want to measure though) and the same or similar tooth count on the chain rings, although if you wanted to change that up to bigger or smaller rings now would be the time. To know what size your current chain rings are, just count the teeth.

If you do the work yourself, you're going to want a crank puller - there are cheaper versions of this tool, but I've not had good luck with them. You'll also need a 15mm crescent wrench to get the other pedal off, a set of hex keys or metric sockets to get at the crank arm fixing bolts, and a torque wrench to set the torque on the bolts when you reinstall (if you're in the US, an auto parts store like Autozone will loan you the torque wrench). And watch a couple Youtube videos to get oriented, I like RJ The Bike Guy.

Two options to replacing it yourself are to take it to your LBS, and if you do that then probably just best to take them the bike and let them order the part. OR, and this is my favorite, find your nearest Bike co-op. In return for a small donation of time and/or money, they will likely have the correct crankset in their used parts bin for cheap or free, and a fully stocked repair station for you to use and somebody to show you what you're doing. Bike co-ops rock, if you're lucky enough to have one near by.

Just one, I had bought a bunch of light up junk totally unrelated for a silly race, and it happened to fit perfectly around the board. Well, perfectly around my board, with those particular bash guards on.

I folded the light strip in half, marked it, taped it center front (just to hold it in place), and put the bash guard over it to lock it into place.

With the hot glue gun, I did one small section at a time. One squeeze of the trigger worth, and then pushed the light strip into it all the way, so it made good contact with the board. Don't try to smooth it like caulk, it'll get weird.

The light strip ends just as it reaches the rear bash guard with about 1 cm space left on each side. So whether or not it looks even depends on how well you centered the whole thing.

With the head and tail light on, it looks pretty good, I think. I Prime Now'd the same Blitzu bike tail light from another post on here that I can't find at the moment. And then ordered the headlight that I figured might fit on the front truck. It does. Barely. Sort of. If you turn hard, you might into some issues. I have yet to really test that before I get a second one. The neat thing is that the headlight(s) now point into the direction I'm turning.

A few more photos of various angles.

>Here, it says that a brake sensor is recommended.

It's a good idea on mostly any ebike, but PAS more then hand-throttle. It's because you really don't have a super amount of control over the motor output and it's easy to accidentally trigger a bike by moving the pedals around and getting read to go at a stop light. That sort of thing.

A torque PAS is more typically going to combine a cadence sensor and torque sensor into one thing. This is done to improve responsiveness as the controller can be aware of pedal movement immediately and give a starting boost. It's hard to balance out responsiveness so that you eliminate the 'laggy' feeling, but not so much that the bike jumps out by mistake.

​

>I don't want to use a throttle, but I want to have the temperature sensor installed.

I am pretty sure the temperature sensor people talk about goes into the motor and is independent from the throttle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wb8Omk6e7GI

But I suggest getting a low profile thumb throttle unless there is some sort of legal prohibition against it. You can put it on your left side of the bike, which is a nice setup since you won't need your front derailleur controls anymore and it won't get in the way.

It's less useful then on a hub motor (which can help you get going if you are in the wrong gear), but you'll find situations were it's handy to have.

​

>Should I keep the nylon blue gear until it fails, or should I replace it with a brass one right away?

Keep the nylon gears. They are very tough and help make up for some of the sloppy tolerances in the bike motor.

If people are regularly stripping them it's more then likely because they are allowing the motor to get too hot. A overheating motor won't get hot enough to melt the gears, but it'll get hot enough to get the nylon soft.

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>How do I figure out which tool I need to remove the existing bottom bracket and cranks on my bike?

The main thing you'll need is a crank puller. Otherwise getting the crank off is a nightmare.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20/

You'll need a chain breaker tool as well to size your new chain to your bike. Some multi-tools have one built it. They are pretty cheap things.

Bottom bracket tool is probably needed, but it depends on your BB.

https://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-22

https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-Bicycle-Bracket-Removal-Remover/dp/B07MFLJJBZ/

You don't necessarily need it 100% if you are creative... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKWWwhRH3cg But it'll make the job a lot easier. Get down and look closely at the BB, though, and make sure that yours is that 20 spline style. Most are.

And watch a couple videos on it. The drive side is reverse threaded which can be confusing.

​

>What is the more resistant and weatherproof connector for the battery? XT60 or XT90?

They are both the same connector, more or less. Xt90 is just physically larger and handles more current, but otherwise the same.

I use Xt90s for the battery connector (the S stands for 'anti-spark'). Otherwise xt60's are sufficient for your bike.

Hey nice bike! If I were you I would add a saddle bag with some tubes, tire levers, and maybe get a small pump, and since you're just commuting the whole "it ain't aero" thing doesn't really fucking matter in my opinion ;) I would recommend this and these and this. Also read up on sites like Sheldon Brown for basics, and also I would recommend the GCN youtube channel for repair and maintenance. Also as far as locks go get a U-lock like this for most security and use this locking method. Have fun and stay safe, and feel free to ask any questions to me or any of the other people on this sub!

You're in the same boat as me! Kinda.. I ride a 2003 Giant NRS3, my first ever bike and likely the only bike I'll own for quite a while.

Granted it's a full suspension, not a hard tail, but from what I've found, it's pretty hard to do little upgrades to such old frames. When I wanted to replace the fork, RockShox only had two new offerings with rim brake compatibility, otherwise I would've had to buy disc compatible hubs which would've been much more expensive. There wasn't much selection left for rear shocks either, and most tire manufacturers have moved their best stuff away from 26" wheels.

Basically, with these older bikes, there really isn't much choice left in terms of making them nearly as competitive as modern bikes.

I've bought wider bars, a shorter stem, new grips, new pedals, new tires, and new brake pads, and that's just about the most you'd be able to do with most of these old frames in terms of changing your riding experience.

If you're looking for better brakes though, these have worked great for me. Converting to discs was way out of my budget, and these are much more powerful than standard pads.

Im so sorry this happened to you. I cant give any better advice than has been given, however, I have advice on how to prevent your next bike from being stolen.

I REALLY hope that cable lock in the picture isnt the lock you used. Using a cheap $20 lock to protect what I'm guessing is a $600 or more bike is asking for trouble. For your next bike, get locking skewers to protect your wheels. They make it practically impossible to remove your wheels when used right. Then get a U-lock, and use it anywhere on the frame. If you only protect your frame and not your wheels (aka if you dont get the locking skewers, or use a cable lock for your wheels), then you're looking at paying around $200 per wheel in aftermarket parts.

Locking Skewers:
http://www.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B001Y9X328

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-MinPin-3-Piece-Locking-Skewer/dp/B00773XY9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286334&sr=1-2&keywords=onguard+skewers

or the best:
http://www.urbanbiketech.com/Pitlock-Locking-Skewer-Sets-s/1.htm

For U-locks, any is pretty good, but the higher-end you go, the better, and DEFINITELY sign up for the insurance the lock comes with! Here are two of the best:
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Standard-Bicycle-Transit-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286741&sr=1-2&keywords=new+york+lock

http://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-Sing-Bicycle-U-Lock/dp/B00470OYE2/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286786&sr=1-2&keywords=blackburn+u+lock

I had on of these, it was great. There are a bunch of different brands but here is some on amazon. Definitely get the extra lifts that allow you to raise the front of the bike for more resistance. If you are in shape, you will want those for sure. Have fun! I had to get rid of mine when we moved into a smaller place. A great buy though if you have the space.

Magnet Steel Bike Bicycle Indoor Exercise Trainer Stand by FDW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004I576SM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bvYrzb40MGHWR

I'd say plan ahead for your move back to Cambridge now and get a proper bike lock like the Kryptonite Evolution Series. No bike lock is 100% secure, but that one does a good job balancing weight, security, and price. It will deter casual thieves with simple tools (like a hacksaw or crowbar), which is about the best you can hope for and should be totally fine for your grocery trips.

The link I posted goes to a package with a U-lock and cable. This GIF shows you how to use the two of them together to make sure that the frame and both wheels are securely locked up. U lock goes around the seat stays (or rear wheel inside the triangle) and the bike rack, cable wraps the front wheel, downtube, and U lock.

What tools do you have? Those are a one time investment, but can get pricey. I started with this kit and built from there: https://www.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Bike-Bicycle-Repair-Tool/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1493144648&sr=8-5&keywords=bike+tool+kit

I'd definitely clean and repack the hubs and headset, replace the chain and all cables, then see where a good clean and lube gets you. You can get chains and cable kits on Amazon for pretty cheap as well.

The biggest difference between cranksets is roundness, a more expensive crank is going to be rounder which means there's a smaller difference in chain tension which means it "absorbs" less energy is more silent. Expensive cranksets are also stiffer, but unless you're putting out 3000 watt that isn't really an issue.

That conversion kit looks like a bad idea, it's a bunch of the cheapest components being marketed as "hip".

They're called riser bars, as long as you find a bar with same diameter (probably 25.4 or 26 mm on older road bikes) you can keep the stem and headset.

Park makes super nice tools, and that stand is a great choice. But I'd really consider buying tools along the ride, instead of shelling out big time for this huge set. Since you are a tool guy you probably already have a good part of those wrenches and keys, so it'd be better to move a bit of that budget towards your bike.

For this conversion you'll need these tools:

• Chain whip
  
  
• Pedal wrench
  
  
• Chain tool
  
  
• Tire levers
  
  
• Crank puller
  
  
• Chain cleaner
  
  
• Bottom bracket tool
  
  This totals about half of what you'd pay for the complete set, so I'd go for the complete set if you need all the wrenches, but otherwise you can put an extra $100 into your conversion.

Tools. Most people don't have proper bike tools, so that would be a great surprise. You can either get a decent multi-tool (get one with a chain-breaker and tire wrenches) or a variety of Park Tools. Here are some Park Tools that I find invaluable: 3-way hex, chain cleaning tools, pedal wrench, and/or a chain whip

This bar tape is amazing 3mm Fizik performance. Tape should be replaced semi-regularly, but most people don't, so it would be a great surprise gift. Black looks good on almost every bike.

#1 Get real lights--both headlight and taillight.

#2. Mounting a headlight low helps define potholes and other road issues. If your light is aligned with your eyes, say mounted on your head or high on the handlebars, you don't get any shadows. But a low mounted headlight--say fork-mounted--really casts some shadows and allows you to see those potholes.

Personally I like a low and a high headlight, not a low light only. There are too many situations when the low light is hidden from an oncoming vehicles. But low + high is a good combo.

LED lights are so good anymore there is not reason to not ride with something sufficiently bright. Like 1000 lumens or more up front and at least nearly that many in the back. I ride with relatively cheap CREE style led lights (something like this, though that's not a recommendation for that particular brand/style as I haven't tried it) that are like $20.

I've been running these taillights for a while, 3 watt CREE. That particular one isn't available any more but it gives you an idea of the wattage needed to be truly visible. Just for example, one of the 3 watt CREEs will very clearly outblast 3 of these. Also it has a battery that will actually last a while vs lights powered by AAAs to save a few grams--but last only a couple of rides at best.

Anyway, when you have enough lights on, front-, rear-, and side-visible, you'll be surprised how much room you get from motorists. I generally enjoy riding at night more than the day.

Panniers are by far the best option, but if you're short on cash you can do what myself and others have done: I had the planet bike eco rack with a milk crate zip tied to it and liked it. Just changed it to the origin8 classique front rack w/milk crate and LOVE it. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Oversized-Aluminum-Pre-installed/dp/B000SPMU9Q
https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Classique-Cargo-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510021748&sr=1-1&keywords=Origin8+classique

If you're looking for better brakes but can't go with discs, there's large contact patch soft compound ones you can get.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KJD7XL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These have a 25% larger contact patch, and they're softer than most stock brakes. They'll grip the rim much harder.

These are also pretty good albiet more expensive: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=sr_1_9?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1536557364

BTW you only need these for the front, because when the front gets more stopping power, its super easy to lock up the rear wheel.

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

I recommend getting a U-Lock along with an extension cable. You want to put the U-Lock somewhere through the rear triangle like this.
This locks the rear wheel and the frame. Then you want to loop the extension cable through the U-Lock and put it through your front tire so it is also secure. Kryptonite, Abus, and On Guard are all good lock brands. Something like this lock would work fine, but there are more expensive options if you want to be more secure. I personally use this lock. All locks are about buying time because an angle grinder can cut through any lock in a few minutes. I suggest parking it to something secure, something public, and well-lit. Also, make sure to register your bike through TAPS because if someone steals your bike or puts a lock on it, they won't be able to help you. Good luck!

your best bet is probably to find a reputable used bike shop and talk to them about your needs and what you're looking for. bike slug on bedford av. in brooklyn is an excellent place to go for that, as is frank's on grand street in manhattan. it'll cost more than getting a bike on craigslist, but you can also be sure that everything works correctly. the other reason i would suggest a used bike is that it's much, much less likely to get stolen in NYC. BUY A GOOD LOCK AND USE IT.

as far as bike type, the classic bikes for riding around the city are: (1) rigid mountain bikes like this one, because they're cheap, strongly built, and they're very fast if you replace the off-road tires with road tires. (2) road bikes from the 70s and 80s, which are similar: fast, cheap, and you can still get replacement parts if something breaks. it's pretty common to replace the drop handlebars with upright bars, which give you better visibility. (3) you could consider a single-speed, which is simple to maintain and easy to ride, but it'll be kind of a bitch climbing up the bridges.

those kinds of bikes will be perfectly fine for any ride under 10 miles. (that's basically the distance from chelsea, uptown to columbia, and back-- or the distance from prospect park to coney island.)

I love the 7.2 FX, it was my primary bike for about a year - a real "do everything" machine.

as you approach 30-40 mile rides, the seat gives you "hotspots", the grips give you blisters, the tires wear out after maybe 1200 miles, and the original eggbeater pedals squeek & fall apart.

I've yet to actually go clipless on my road bike (I know, I know), so I can't speak about that, but if distance is your primary goal then padded shorts, a new saddle, ergon grips, riding gloves & better tires are things I bought first, and I'd do it that way again. If performance is your primary goal or you already have those things, then yes - the next upgrade I would have made myself would have been the pedals.

I got 50-60 mile rides out of the 7.2 without clipless pedals, but that was mostly brute force rather than equipment. I don't mean to be a jerk, but honestly - it isn't a bike made for very very long distance. The 150-250 a good set of clipless pedals and shoes cost you can put you well on your way to a decent road bike much more comfortable on long distance rides. Don't worry, there are still plenty of excuses to go back to the FX for various riding. Just my experience, personally.


I picked myself up a pair of Shimono PD-R540's off Amazon before my morning ride just today - about 1/2 the price of the two LBS's I checked.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SPD-SL-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B000P9TOHQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1335742964&sr=1-1

• Try a dry run on the weekend
  
• Go in early in the morning, leave early in the afternoon, if your schedule allows
  
• What is your route like? Is there a shoulder? If it is wide enough, you could ride in it so long as it is clear of debris, but traffic may pass closer. Is the road 4 lanes? If so, this allows drivers to pass without changing lanes into oncoming traffic.
  
• Are the lanes really wide? If the lanes are wide enough that you feel comfortable with traffic passing you without changing lanes, then you can ride to the right. If not, then position yourself in the middle or left of the lane to encourage drivers to change lanes to pass. See this for more explanation: http://www.bikewalknc.org/2016/01/using-the-left-half-of-the-lane/ (note the chart near the bottom that shows the further right you ride, the less room cars give).
  
• Light up! Get both front and rear lights and use them even during the day. I really like this rear light and have been complimented on it.

I recommend checking out /r/bikecommuting. Although it sounds like you have already been commuting by bike, so I apologize if you already know what I'm saying. I'm assuming because you are asking about what you wear for winter cycling that you do not regularly commute in winter/have a short commute.

You will need to get lights for commuting, especially as winter approaches (assuming that you are in the Northern hemisphere). I have the Cygolite Expillion 350 and the PDW Danger Zone. I once read that a blinking rear light is good for being noticed but a solid light is good for driver depth perception, so my helmet has a red light in back that I keep solid in the evening/night. I will eventually get a second real rear light.

As for clothing - what is your climate going to look like this winter? I was commuting in upstate New York and wore generic winter running tights, wool socks, UA coldgear shirt, a down vest, gloves, and a thin scarf that went around my neck and over my head under my helmet. When I wore thick wool mittens over my gloves, I was toasty in that down to 14 F. I never got goggles/glasses, but they would have been nice when it sleeted.

I don't have any cycling specific wear. I re-purpose what I already have or buy things that will work for multiple activities.

I wash my bike (or at least rinse it off) after any ride where salt from the road was kicked up. Last winter I had a toothbrush and would gently scrub my derailleurs to get off the ice and would use a damp rag to wipe it down. Again, I was biking in upstate New York. I have since moved south and don't yet know what this winter will mean for biking. I'm assuming a lot less ice and a lot less salt.

P-clamps are a great solution for attaching a rack when you don't have eyelets.

Here's an excellent article (with helpful photos) on how to install a rack with p-clamps: http://www.bikecommuters.com/2008/07/19/p-clamps-are-your-friends/

Here's a good breakdown and Nitto branded p-clamp from Rivendell Bikes: https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-band-clamps-pair?variant=23336804161

Attach at the upper eyelets and then use 2 p-clamps (one on each side) to attach the lower points of the rack. Once you have your p-clamps, then any rear rack will do depending on your needs - I use the non-disc version of this (link to the disc brake version): https://smile.amazon.com/Ibera-Bike-Rack-Frame-Mounted-Adjustable/dp/B002T5H8MW?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 which is great and affordable (under $30).

Sure thing.

1. I have mid-range USB rechargeable lights: Headlight. Tail light. I will say that the headlight doesn't fit perfectly on the L Train's bars due to the bend in them. But it's plenty bright and lasts a long time. I had it on my old bike and just kept it. I also added Priority full fenders and front basket to make it more useful to me as a commuter. Both were tedious to install (like most fenders and some baskets) but are very solid and haven't given me any issues so far. Here's a link to a picture I posted the first day I rode it to work.
   
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2. I don't need any more gears. The seven are plenty for my rides in Chicago. If I lived in San Fran or Seattle, I'd probably want more lol. In my mind, a parking garage ramp is pretty steep, I wouldn't want to regularly climb hills like that with this bike. I know some people do though, more power to them. I can easily maintain speed while going up overpasses around here though.
   
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3. What I meant by 'spinning out' is that I could pedal faster than the bike was going. Basically, I couldn't speed up anymore, even in 7th. Again, that's only done the one grade on my commute and at that point, I'd guess that I'm probably going about 25-27 mph. No need to go any faster in my mind. On flat ground, I'm not strong enough to maintain top speed in 7th gear for long at all. I usually max out in 5th while commuting through the city.

For all-around utility and versatility, a hybrid/comfort bike is a good starter choice, as could be a used mountain bike (either of these types can handle light gravel and gentle off-road use). Try to avoid department store bikes—rather, companies like Giant/Liv, Raleigh, Specialized, Trek and others offer good quality. Riding around town, you don't need suspension (it reduces efficiency), so look for a rigid frame.

Around this time of year, many bike shops will be clearing out this year's models to make room for next year; see if you can snag something good there, as well as checking Craigslist.

With your height, you'll be looking for a Small frame (around 16 inches/40 centimeters—the height of the frame's seat tube).

I'd look for a good-quality basic bike—for example, here is Giant's entry-level $330 Sedona W—and kit it up with fenders and a rack at the very least. Fenders will run around $40, and a rack will cost $25-50 depending on the type. I'd also recommend getting a pair of folding baskets on either side of the rack, which will help you carry at least a full paper grocery bag on either side.

You'll also want lights; Serfas makes a good commuter light set that's about $40 for headlight and taillight.

You will also need a good floor pump with a gauge(you should go for a good name brand one from a shop, but in a pinch one from academy or wally world should work) and a pair of tire levers like these(doesnt have to be those exact ones, any shop worth a grain of salt will have some).

And if you need help fixing the flat itself, Youtube is a great resource.

Kool stop dual compound brake pads

OR

Kool stop salmon brake pads

You need the right pads for all weather conditions if you are riding in the rain. Especially heavy rain.

Regular black brake pads are truly for DRY conditions only.

Dual compound is for both. Salmon is for mostly wet.

Give a pair of these a try and not only will you have the best and strongest rim braking you've ever had, you'll have the best all-weather performance there is for rim brakes. It is absolutely worth the money and one of the best bike upgrades you can do for a rim-brake bicycle.

Make sure to toe in brakes to avoid squeaking and you're golden.

If this is for a commuter bike and rain happens here and there, this is a necessity for safety, not a luxury. The right brakes are just as necessary as a helmet.

3 out of my 4 bikes have rim brakes and these are the only pads I use or recommend. Getting the toe in correct for squeaking is a thing, but other than that they are the best brakes out there for rims. Hands down. Especially for rain and snow.

I find that they are always giving these away at bike events. I have gotten tons of free ones. Go to the urban cycling class - not only is there helpful info, they tend to give these away for free.

I always give mine away.

I am also a fan of spoke reflectors like these.
https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

Easy to install and nearly invisible in the day time.

Hey all -
Been getting more into biking and particularly upgrading/customizing my setup. I'd like to start doing more maintenance and repairs on my own. I purchased Zinn & The Art of Road Bike Maintenance, but my tools are currently pretty lackluster.

I'm hoping to snag something from Amazon (I have a gift card), and was looking at this toolkit. Does anyone have experience with this brand and know about the quality of these tools? Also, does this seem like a good start, or is there something glaringly obvious missing or something?

I cannot recommend the Rocket Ratchet enough for all-around, single tool efficiency. It's gotten to the point where I don't actually use the tools in my toolbox even when I'm at home. I just use the ratchet and it's way better. Any multi-tool with a chain-breaker will work, I've just had a really good time with that one.

After that a set of Pedro's. For my money, they're the best levers around. Great durability, can spoke-lock from both sides, and I've never ripped a tube with them, even on bullshit 23 tires.

After that basic patch kits, they'll use them all the time until they throw their hands in the air five years from now and scream "FINE I'LL GO TUBELESS."

Those are kind of the basics, and will allow them to work 90% of the stuff on their bike. The other 10% becomes more expensive and more specialized.

EDIT: oh, and a spoke wrench is the other cheap and highly useful item to have around.

Many of our users use either ellipticals or stationary bikes. It's the same idea, and while bikes are cheaper and smaller, the treadmill has some advantages for both aspects of gaming and exercising.

That being said the best exercise is the one you will actually do, we would love to have you stop by!

Edit: Here is a good stationary bike mod to turn your regular bike to a stationary one at the end of the day. Perfect to set up a monitor or laptop onto a TV tray while you finish your Assassins Creed 100% achievement.

The book Physics for Entertainment by Yakov Perelman

To go with a Moleskine you really should have a good EDC pen, like the Fisher Space Pen, though Lamy Safari fountain pens are fun and affordable if that's more your style.

You should also look into Field Notes notebooks.

And the thing I have to include just because I have to... ninjabread men cookie cutters because I really really want it! (well them)

edit: I forgot two 'spirituality' books i've enjoyed, Saltwater Buddha and Kook

edit2: TIL I can't follow directions :D $5 & $10

I agree with all this, and in addition I would recommend just getting some cheap sports clothing from your local department store. No need to spend all that money on specialty bike clothes if your commute is only 7 miles. A general sports tee (in the US, my local Target has some sports tees in high-vis orange and yellow for $8) and some sports shorts. Make sure they're made from wicking material or you'll be miserable in the warmer months. For such a short commute though, padded cycle shorts are not necessary. My cycle commute is about 8.5 miles and I've never needed or wanted specialty padded cycle shorts. Most of the year I wear some cheap cargo shorts, in summer it's wicking workout shorts, in the winter I wear lined tights under my work slacks.

Use the money you save to buy some good panniers and fenders.

Get some good lights-- you'll want them just in case you find yourself cycling in low light or if it's cloudy and dark or foggy. At the least, get a good taillight.

If you're worried about sweat and don't have a shower facility available, baby wipes are very helpful. Carry some extra deodorant in your pack too. Bike your route in advance a few times to make sure you've got enough time to get to school and get yourself dressed/prepared.

Not that particular one, but this one. I clipped it to the visor of my helmet rather than wear it on my glasses. It took some getting used to, but by the second day I had the knack for turning my head to see what I wanted to in the mirror with ease. It looks silly and is easy to knock out of adjustment if I do not pay attention, but I like it. Seeing cars come up behind me was actually a little intimidating at first...ignorance was bliss :-)

Something like this is usually recommended: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005YPK9VQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453278074&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=kryptonite+lock&dpPl=1&dpID=41QbAJlgf7L&ref=plSrch

You won't need the cable though. Get at least sold secure silver.

I have a 'gold' cable (better) , it's super tough. Saw a video on YouTube of someone cutting it like butter. That's why no one recommends cables. It is good to have two locks though,thieves need a way to beat both.

You want as small a ulock as you can get away with. The larger ones are easier to beat (they put a small jack in and pop them open).

If you do a bit of research you should be able to find a decent one in your area for a decent price. Once you know what you want, shop around.

As for a headlight, I have one like this. It's extremely bright and has three settings: high, low, blinking. I feel extremely comfortable with this on my bike and it lasts forever. I also opted for the wide angle lens that I think works great for riding on roads as it doesn't shine directly into the eyes of vehicle drivers.

For a taillight, I have this one. Again, it's got a few options for blinking/solid lights/etc, and the blinking option is super bright. I rode at night once and turned around to see if I could tell how far it was casting and I could see it reflecting off a stop sign about 1-2 blocks away.

One suggestion for a helmet (I don't know your budget), but I backed the Lumos Helmet on Kickstarter and received mine last month. It's awesome, and I feel way more visible with it than with a normal helmet. Plus the turn signals are a major plus!

The term clipless is kind of stupid, because you "clip in". I think a better term is "cleated".

Years ago, pedals were flat and had "toe clips", which was a cage that went over the toes. Now, pedals use cleats mounted to the shoes to keep your foot attached to the pedal. Helps you transfer power better, and utilize more of the pedal stroke than flat pedals can. Mainly, you can ride farther with less fatigue because you can utilize different muscle groups in your leg.

Some of the most popular for road bikes are Shimano SPD-SL pedals, or Look Keo pedals which are very similar. You can find an inexpensive pair of Shimanos for $30-$40.

There are also Wellgo pedals that use the Look cleats for a little less. Some people find the Look cleats easier to lock in and get out of.

Some people also use Shimano SPD pedals that are meant for mountain bikes because the cleats are smaller and generally the shoes have the cleats recessed so you can walk in them easier. For long distances riding however, road pedals are better and give better power transfer.

Here's a video explaining them and how they work

In the process of kitting out (or identifying kit for when I have the money) for my new (first full sized) bike and have settled on Cat Eye Rapid X (50 lumens).

You can get more powerful ones ( Rapid X2 and X3) but I'm generally anti bright lights as they're often too dazzling or even hurt my eyes when on other biked - pet peeve). Anyway I ramble, they attach by rubber/stretchy plastic band and come with a larger one for seat tube and smaller one to attach to seat stays or rack or anywhere else you fancy inc. one would assume the ability to orient them outwards/side ways for side viability should you want to (though they've got v v wide angle glow anyway).

Reckon I'd get a few for rack down tubes or seat stays each side vertically and and one horizontally to attach to the rear hanging light plate on the end of the rack to maximise the [strikethrough]Akira Neo Tokyo 2019 motorbike look[/strikethrough] visability (and a couple of front ones on the forks to sit either side of a Busch and Muller Eyro mounted centrally on the fork above the front wheel).

Also these wheel reflectors are a cheap and cheerful fix that I'll do, good at catching car headlights as lower down on the bike where they're generally pointing:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DNG8DSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6gZMDb3HDV559

https://youtu.be/_5xC7PI3dyI

Re: Cateye Rapid X, believe they were the first of their kind when they first came out quite a while back but the same/similar lights are sold by different brands. Cheap Chinese ebay jobs available too but not sure if the same or cheap lower quality copies, up to you if you want to risk.

Also going to get Tortec Mudguards that have a reflector strip which user reviews say is v good and helpful. Then some reflective rim tape to boot (and then potentially some 'diamond grade' reflective tape that's used on emergency vehicles to strategically place on points along the frame - yes I want my Neo Tokyo/Tron bicycle).

That's definitely a steal. Have heard good things about these Tubus racks.

However, anyone have experience with an Ibera PakRak:

http://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-IB-RA4-Frame-mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458744660&sr=8-4&keywords=tubus+rack

Looks like a good deal. I'm looking for a rear rack that can accept panniers.

Right now, I have this Topeak Explorer rack on my Schwinn Varsity:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIE3WI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

My bike is a commuter but I am planning on taking it on some short weekend / week-long tours this summer, hopefully going for a month long tour at the tail end of summer.

Thanks for any insight, everyone! Cheers!

That should work. Here's the one I have: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0012DZEBY.

There are other brands, but I can't speak to their quality as I've only used Wald's. I've had two (one stayed with a bike I sold) and they held up just fine for years, even in my rainy city. The one on my current bike was hard to attach (previous bike was super easy) but it was doable and makes it practically theft-proof.

Make sure it will fit your rear rack. It will be fine with almost any rack, but I've some really weird ones that don't seem like they'd work with anything, even pannier clips. You'd know if you had one already, though. 😀

I've never owned a real bike light. The Fenix-Store used to sell these TwoFish LockBlock flashlight mounts and I picked one up when I ordered a replacement PD30 after losing mine 5 or 6 years ago. Have used it on 5 or 6 different bikes with handlebars ranging from skinny CrMo BMX bars to thickly-wrapped, fat mag-aluminum road-bike bars, and with every light I own (except the 1xAAA ones, which I could probably just clip to the velcro loop if necessary). From the narrowest part of an SC52 to a fat plastic incandescent 2x123 light; it holds it securely and doesn't swivel or move even on slick, wet leather or metal. The rubber helps absorb a little bit of the road vibration, but that's an issue with all bike lights I'd imagine. Got left out in the rain/sun/snow for over 2 years while its primary home was outside of a college building. Hasn't started to dry rot or fade or anything. And it hasn't been stolen, which is a miracle in this city. The bungee cords on my pannier rack have been stolen three times, as well as the permanent, screwed-on mount for my taillight (when my taillight wasn't on it), but they never took my little rubber/velcro doohickey. Oh and the Us are different sizes so you can flip it around to accommodate thicker lights or bars. If you have a really thick light and wrapped handlebars you might be in trouble...

Kinda weird to give such a raving review of a piece of rubber with two u-shapes and velcro straps... but as both a flashlight enthusiast and a frequent cyclist, it's helped me cut back on my gear since I can just slap whatever's in my pocket on my handlebars and roll. And then I don't have to invest a bunch of money to have a durable, waterproof, multi-mode (without PWM) bike light. The situation is different now, I guess. Since I assume you can get decent-quality LED bike lights for cheap just like you can get a decent ThorFire flashlight for 9 bucks.

Oh and Zebralights are crazy efficient. I miss my SC52. Even running a measly 840mAh 14500 I could use it for everyday tasks for a few weeks. I'll be picking up another ZL sometime soon :)

All lights you purchase will have mounts included with them, look for USB rechargeable lights as opposed to battery operated lights.

On the frame in the rear

Ultra Bright Bike Light Blitzu Cyborg 168T USB Rechargeable Bicycle Tail Light. Red High Intensity Rear LED Accessories Fits On Any Road Bikes, Helmet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_TOF7radLPpoOj

Under the saddle.


LE Super Bright Bike Light, USB Rechargeable Rear Tail Light, Cycling Light, 4 LEDs, 5 Light Modes, Red, Cable Included, Fits on any Bicycles, Helmets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197X16BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_kdJj4Z6x6Tr61


There are much better lights available, I'm upgrading my front currently. So I don't have a link.
And apologies if the links don't work. Not that tech savvy.

Why lights? Safety. Night or day. Be seen, drivers will pay attention.

By far, the best cheap light I’ve found is this one by inbike I got it in a lot of amazon return stuff and I didn’t get the mount with it, so I can’t speak for whatever comes with it. The light runs on 18650 cells which are the way to go imo. Pick up a couple more and wall charger and you’re good to go.

I have a version of this one on a couple bikes as well. Same light just non branded. Bright and rechargeable. One has been coated in mud several times and still works fine.

I just wanted to remind you to position the saddle parallel to the ground, and to Google some basic bike fitting tips (correct saddle height, and positioning). It's simple to do and will make biking even more comfortable.

As for the tube, you're going to need some tire levers, try prying off the tire & tube from the opposite side of the valve. once you have the new tube in the tire, inflate it a little and attach the tire back to the wheel starting with the valve. work the tire gently onto the wheel, and use the levers to pry / push it all the way on. (be careful when using tire levers, they may pinch the tube against the wheel and cause a puncture in a new tube.) I'm glad you're getting back into cycling, have fun!

Rust? unless you have a cheap bike, like really cheap I would not worry about rust. A good quality bike is nearly all aluminum or some alloy.

Bike storage I kept my bikes inside my dorm room but when I was there you could rent bike lockers.

Cover your seat with a plastic bag that would not hurt.

Your chain, just keep it clean if you must buy this for lube use this.

If you are proactive with maintainence I would not worry about it.

Here's what I have-

Backpack: https://www.dakine.com/en-us/bags/backpacks/street-backpacks/mission-25l-backpack-17w/

Helmet: https://triple8.com/product/the-certified-sweatsaver/?category_name=skate

Shoes: https://www.vans.com/shop/suede-canvas-old-skool#hero=0

Pads: https://triple8.com/product/saver-series-3-pack-box/?category_name=skate

I only used all of the pads for about the first week or so, but I still wear the wrist guards-they've prevented serious injuries!

​

Board light (tail of the board): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Board light #2 (front of the board): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IFA03I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front Backpack light (goes on my backpack strap, or hooked to my jacket on my forward facing shoulder): https://www.olightstore.com/h1r-cool-white.html

Back Backpack light (goes around my backpack): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1SM2NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The board lights aren't super bright, they're mostly so people can see what I'm riding. The O light makes riding at night very safe, and my back light has great visibility.

As for tools, I carry my skate tool and a couple of hexes, and some spare belts. I have a charger I leave in my office and one in my backpack all the time.

​

Hope this helps!

Your best bet would be to take it to a bike shop. They likely have a crank arm in stock that would work, assuming they used a normal size and the classic square taper interface. If you can't get the whole bike to the shop, you can probably remove the crank arm using one of these, and take that to the shop:

https://smile.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20

They're pretty easy to use, you can find youtube videos that explain it in a couple minutes.

The new crank arm should not cost more than $30 at a shop. Online they are really cheap, and this one is a known good brand:

https://smile.amazon.com/SR-Suntour-Replacment-Square-Taper/dp/B00GHTQ7YQ

Instead of something that's simply heavier, I'd go with a U-Lock + cable combo. The smaller you can get the better! Harder to break if it's really tight to the bike. Here's a great mini version of the above lock style: http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-3-25-Inch-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1450290745&sr=1-3&keywords=kryptonite+u-lock+mini

Good luck finding your bike.

I have been slowly buying tools this year, based on what I need for basics. So far, this chain cleaner has got a lot of use. I also bought a gallon of simple green degreaser. This is concentrate so it should equal roughly 20 gallons as long as i dilute it. Also gets bar tape super white.

What you do is clean the chain, clean the cassette/crank with degreaser and brush, then lube the chain. The less grime in the chain, the longer the drive train will last.

I also bought a cassette sprocket and chain whip and will occationally (once every 1000 miles or so) take it off and give it a nice soaking and try to get it as clean as possible.

WT 2018 has lots more vehicles and modes with the same broken repetitive gameplay and worse grind.

That's not meant to discourage you from playing again as it can still be a lot of fun playing WT with friends on Discord.

You probably chose to leave for good reasons though so maybe you can merge the good mental/physical health parts of riding and gaming/socializing by combining the two?

Maybe get something like this and stream while you ride and play indoors? Or just ride indoors and chat online? Or grab a bike riding game like this?

IDK... just throwing ideas out there!

It's been about a decade since I was consistently cycling, and I want to get back into it. I have a ~800mile trip planned as a reward to myself if I am in shape by September 2016.

• Is this a realistic goal/timeline?
  
• I am not ready to train on the city streets yet, and don't have a car to get out to calmer roads. Any advice on trainers would be appreciated. Right now I am looking at this one on Amazon.
  
• Apps for training?
  
  Thanks

I use this one when on my road bike and love it. Real glass and good view : Bike Peddler Take A Look Cycling Eyeglass Mirror (Original) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C17M26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pfK7AbNJE12AJ

This one is installed on the bar end on my commuter. Glass, good optics, wide field of view: Mirrycle Mountain Bike Mirror https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BR4NIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ShK7Ab0A8YWC2

Mirrors have saved my bacon multiple times and I don’t ride without anymore.

Any lock can be broken given time, more secure locks take more time. There are various opinions and you can look at various tests people have done (Men's Journal/Gizmodo). However I tend to recommend a u-lock, the chains are very secure but heavy.

Example of a Chain

The Lock I Have

Every brand has various security levels, so you can research and see where your cost to security ratio is, but a cheap lock will be cheap and easier to get through.

My first:

Pedals - $50 when I bought at REI 3 years ago

Shoes - $65 when I bought them at REI 3 years ago

Jersey - $30, I absolutely love these cheap jerseys from Amazon, the zipper on the first one I bought finally gave out 3 years later. I will happily spend $30 on a new jersey every couple years.

Shorts - About $40 when I bought, I wouldn't recommend, they are hard to wear for more than an hour. This is one area where I believe it's important to buy nicer materials, especially for long rides. I have Pearl Izumi and Le Col bibs, they are fine but I am still looking for something that works better on long rides. I am trying theblackbibs.com next.

Let me know if you have additional questions as you get started, I took a relatively budget-minded approached when I jumped in.

You can (and will be the best way of cleaning it) remove the chain, but it's not that necesary. There are chain cleaning tools like this one that will do a great job without the need to remove it. As for the air compresor, like water, you should not use a lot of preassure on parts that have grease on them.

I've found buying from places like dx.com (basically a chinese distributor) to be really good for buying inexpensive lights. I currently use these:

http://www.dx.com/p/bicycle-bike-2-mode-3-led-red-light-tail-warning-safety-light-red-white-2-x-aaa-120031

which is a direct knock off of http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Blinky-eXtreme-Bicycle/dp/B000KBEH1W/

and

http://www.dx.com/p/singfire-sf-607-2-x-cree-xm-l-t6-2000lm-cool-white-4-mode-bicycle-flashlight-black-4-x-18650-230382

which while not anywhere close to the brightest headlight that they sell, is brighter than any bike light I've seen on the road at full power. (I typically ride around the city at the low or 1/4 power setting and ride on dark trails at medium or 1/2 power setting) At full power, I measured it at 15 Watts which is huge for an LED light (equivalent to a 60W lightbulb and almost as much as a car headlight).

It looks like there are eyelets for rack mounts so any rack like this should work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T5H8MW/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bEHOX_g468_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=ZWM7T83HJTAQ5WKKA7WP&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=4fa95ac1-9313-504c-a40b-72e9b9823f04&pf_rd_i=3403461

Panniers are can be a bit more 'sized'. Are your boots high tops? I'm thinking something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ET9W146/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Full disclosure I have a Blackburn rear rack and some large drawstring top Jaand panniers I found used.

If you have a bicycle in your household, something like this can be used.

I've used one over the years for indoor training and they are fantastic tools. Good luck!

Budget's too low to buy a quality lock. Just browsing Amazon.ca and the cheapest one I would recommend is this one.

There are some OnGuard ones too for less, but the reviews were mixed and some said that the locks freeze in the winter. You could check those out if you want but read the reviews because they do some sneaky things like making the U part thinner to save on weight (but it actually just makes it a easier lock to break).

I use this to lock the frame and front wheel to whatever I'm locking my bike to and this to secure my back wheel to my frame. I also fun a wire through the second one to secure my saddle.

Locking your bike up is all about deterrence. A determined and knowledgeable thief can get through any lock. The best way to deter a thief is to make sure other bikes are more attractive targets. A good thief could get through both the locks I listed - and any other lock - with an angle grinder, but the trouble of getting through one very heavy duty lock as well as secondary one will make a thief think twice when 90% of the bikes locked up are going to be easier to steal.

As far as other tips: DO NOT LEAVE YOUR BIKE OUTSIDE OVERNIGHT! Bring it up to your apartment or dorm. This isn't always possible but the chances of a bike getting stolen go up tremendously if a bike is left out all night in the dark. When your out and about during the day, try to lock it in a well trafficked area and if possible somewhere where there are other bikes which - as I said - will hopefully be easier targets for theft. Better them than you bro.

FWIW, I'm in the Pacific Northwest and commute all year.

I've been using this gear with great success and good relative comfort:

http://amzn.com/B00DQZ0S3K

https://www.showerspass.com/products/club-shoe-covers

http://www.columbia.com/mens-evapouration-jacket-RM2023.html

http://amzn.com/B00435IPFK

http://amzn.com/B008KUXRAW

Wear your helmet over your hood, and a pair of regular safety glasses. When it is really cold I add a balaclava and a fleece jacket. Fenders are a must to keep the dirt down, and I use this lube in the winter:

http://amzn.com/B000WYCD5O

I have an old pair of windproof campmor gloves that are no longer made. If you get cold just pedal harder. It almost never happens, I'm usually too hot.

Your bike depends on your distance, speed and budget. Make sure you get disc brakes, mandatory in my opinion for the higher speeds. This is my ride: http://i.imgur.com/bXXJkjS.jpg, just passed 1400 miles. It is BBS02 on a Kona Dew, I've since switched to Schwalbe Marathon tires. Cost about $1100 and has already paid for itself in gas and parking. 35mph for ~10 miles, 25 mph for 30-40 miles.

Oh, and fuck the snow and ice. Those are the days I drive or work from home.

This one I have - cheapish and pretty bright - Planet Bike Superflash bike tail light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KBEH1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J2p7BbMVMEARK

This one is a little more and twice as bright - NiteRider Solas 250 Tail Light Black, One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGGJGXJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_53p7BbTK9EEPW

This one is semi expensive but heavy duty. It's a bit on the big side too. I think it would work good on molle webbing. I have a tactical backpack myself and was thinking about picking it up. Blackburn Dayblazer 125 Tail Light Black, One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFRQNZL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f5p7BbDTNVG7G

Edit : These all work well for me with my tactical backpack but depends one what your rocking

I have a collapsible rear basket that is incredible! Keeps my backpack off my back (no sweat!) and perfectly holds a grocery bag for errands. Plus, it folds down almost flat, so easy to store & park. Best bike upgrade I've done!

Good point. I'll save for some saddle and wheels. My current Kilo TT seat looks brand new so I'm planning on replacing it when it wears out. I got a helmet, front brakes, and grip yesterday so I'm thinking I should get a lock first before I buy more parts haha.

I'm looking at this one right now!
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ?t=slicinc-20&tag=slicinc-20&ascsubtag=azbSmMjDEeKhJ47FIPa4tA0_2syZ3_USN_0_0

Do you use a lock? Which do you use?

The mirrors that you can attach to your helmet or glasses are much better. Bar mounted mirrors rely in part on the direction the bars are point, which may not be where you actually want to look.

A helmet/glass mounted system allows you the freedom to control you view, whether it be close behind or further away.

I mount my Take A Look on a pair of shooter / safety glasses.

If you're going to be commuting you should look at getting fenders (SKS are good) and a rear rack and pannier bag (you're better off letting the bike carry your stuff; you won't get a sweaty back from a backpack). I'd also probably recommend a chainguard (which lets you ride in jeans/regular trousers without worrying about ripping the shit out of the cuffs).

I have this one and really like it. It lets me transfer all the goods from one bike to another easily.

What I have in mine:

• CO2 canisters ex
  
• CO2 inflater ex
  
• Patch kit ex
  
• Tire levers ex
  
• Allen key tool ex
  
• Tweezers (I use these to get things like thorns out of my tire)
  
• Spare chain link ex (just be sure you get the correct one)

Matte white is definitely hard to clean. The hardest place of all is behind the chainrings, I don't think I'll ever be able to clean that right without removing the chainrings and cranks and I'm too lazy for that.

Here's my full cleaning routine:

1. Spray all over with diluted Simple Green
   
2. Clean chain using Park Tools chain cleaner tool, three sets of 30 revolutions, two with Simple Green and one with water to rinse out
   
3. Remove wheels, clean cassette with Park Tools brush that came with the chain cleaner and soapy water
   
4. Clean wheels, frame, fork, saddle, bars, and under fenders with hot soapy water using sponge, brushes, rags, etc
   
5. Put wheels back on, rinse with hose
   
6. Let dry, then lube
   
   I definitely recommend fenders, especially if you ride on wet roads. Sometimes I do hear rocks getting in but there's enough clearance that they don't get stuck.

I can confirm that the Tech EOS kicks ass. Battery life is impressive considering how small it is (I've ridden every day for around an hour for the past month and a half and it's still going fine). Bright enough that I can avoid potholes.

Also, the PDW Danger Zone is an awesome tail light. I've used it with the Tech EOS and it's still kicking as well. It's a really bright fucking tail light, and it looks sweet.

You have three options:

• shim the attachment point out until the support does not interfere
  
• bend the support until it does not interfere
  
• get a rack with narrower tubular supports. It looks like all Topeak racks use those same flat supports, but I have an Ibera with tubular supports similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-IB-RA4-Non-Disc-Frame-Mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/

Ah! Yes. Then you need brake pads for v brakes, linear pull brakes.

Kool-Stop Dual Compound Mountain Pads for Linear Pull Brakes Threaded,Black/Salmon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CLSWKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XFsKDb119BBTN

Anything like this. Personally, i like the pads that have removable inserts. They arent that much more and replacing shoes are a lot easier since you dont have to muck with positioning.

Kool Stop Bicycle V-Type Holder with Brake Pads (Dual Compound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T35RSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PHsKDbR6NBC2N

Velo orange make a set. Clarks. Avid. Really any brand has a decent product like this.

Justhavingacoffe, I'd be super interested how you have made the Topeak work.


DuranDourand, thanks for the pic, that's exactly the problem I ran into.

Just to double check, this is the rack you've used, correct?

http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2

Thank you?

This trainer has really good reviews and a favorable price. I don't have it, but I tend to trust reviews on Amazon.

I've found a front porteur rack (like https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Classique-Cargo-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE) is a much more convenient solution for hauling a messenger bag or backpack. Depending on the bike, a Wald basket on the front is an even more convenient solution.

Rear racks are great for long-distance touring with a good set of panniers, but using them with anything else (including makeshift panniers) is just not that convenient. Stuff on top of the rack can make mounting/dismounting awkward. Stuff on the side needs to be free of straps and dangly bits that could get caught (or very carefully secured). Heel clearance with makeshift panniers is another concern. Last, but not least, panniers pick up a lot of road grime. Even if it's easy to take your bag off the side of the rack and throw it over your shoulder at the destination, it may be dirty enough you don't want to.

I highly recommend a rack + panniers. I just switched from using a backpack to a rack + panniers on my commute and it's MUCH nicer.

I got these:
https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-IB-RA4-Frame-mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473272148&sr=8-1&keywords=bike+rack+and+panniers

and
https://www.amazon.com/Ibera-IB-BA8-Bike-Panniers/dp/B0044U8W3E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473272148&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+rack+and+panniers

For less than $100 bucks you'll be much more comfortable.

I use a Cygolite Metro 550 up front, and a Blitzu Blitzu Cyborg 168T on the rear.

I don't use turn/brake lights. I don't think they offer an added benefit, and are kinda fiddly to get them to work 100% reliably. If you're using a signaling device ... it should be 100% reliable. I think having a rear flasher is plenty as it simply says "See me! I'm a bicycle and slower than you!".

The cygolite is plenty bright for riding on unlit roads, and has multiple modes/brightness levels. I mostly use the "strobe" during daylight hours, and "steady pulse" mode after sunset.

The blizu offers a few brightness levels on "steady", as well as 3 flashing modes (strobe, bright pulse, less-bright pulse). The strobe mode is very fast ... like a strobe light in a disco. The pulse mode is sort of "normal" flashing like a car's turn signal. I use the "strobe" mode during the day for its attention-grabbing ability, and the less-frantic "pulse" mode at night to ensure it gets people's attention without inducing seizures.

Both are USB rechargeable, which was a big deciding factor for me. I hate having to buy/replace batteries all the time. A "desired" feature would be a design that allows USB charging with replaceable batteries (using industry-standard sizes) for longer outings, but these generally last long enough for most of my excursions.

I don't wear a helmet so I normally use the headstrap for cycling, but I also made good experiences with this double-strap-thingy on my old bike. I used it for a normal flashlight but I see no reason why it shouldn't work turned 90° with the Wizard Pro. Hope that helps.

Try a nice front rack. I have a '94 Singletrack as well that I turn into my commuter during the winter. I am wanting to get a rack and believe a front rack would work better. You can easily put your backpack on there and strap it down. Here: https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Classique-Cargo-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511010576&sr=8-3&keywords=front+bicycle+rack

Agree, Pedro's are the best.

They even handle my Marathons easily.

I commute to work at night as well. I use a Cygolite Expillion 350 headlight on the front and two Planet Bike Superflash taillights on the back. I also wear a yellow traffic safety vest with retro-reflective stripes.

I have been riding at night for more than a year now without incident. I have been told by a coworker who passed me riding to work at night that he could see me a half mile away, lit up and glowing like a Christmas tree. All of this stuff will cost about $100, but it could save your life.

This one is my favorite of the lights I use, and it's rechargeable:

https://www.amazon.com/Blitzu-Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511376731&sr=8-6&keywords=

This one also works great, and runs on 2x AAA batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Omni-Bike-Light-Rear/dp/B008QVXQ1K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1511376770&sr=8-8&keywords=

For the front, I use this thingy with any number of rechargeable (18650 powered) flashlights that I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Lockblocks-Flashlight-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511376885&sr=8-1&keywords=

I generally have to ride kitted out because I can't be in the sun for very long. I find my entire kit very comfortable though more so for being outside. If its a quick trip it isn't worth the time to change. Any more then that and I'll be physically cooler, and more comfortable on longer rides. I can't be outside for too long because of vitiligo without covering up anyways.

I use cameras for multiple purposes. To document interactions, to document idiotic actions -- even mine. Their main purpose though is to have a record in case of an accident and for that purpose I want to be able to clearly identify the driver and license plate. This requires good resolution front and back. I'm tempted to just use two generic go pro style cameras but then I'll have to remember to turn them on, charge them, etc. I'd like one battery pack at most and maybe one switch.

I have a very bright front headlight similar to this that runs off of a battery pack. We have a total of 4 battery packs that we use over 2 different bicycles. The backlights I have are AAA powered and I keep a backup (lights and batteries). I currently switched lights and I have about 6 of the new ones and maybe 3 of the old ones. I also typically care 2 or 3 cheap "to be seen" emergency lights.

Best experience is having a really crappy day at work and taking all the frustration out on the way home crushing my record. I'm just too physically exhausted to be upset. Then, after I've relaxed I perk up and realize that I just crushed my previous best travel time.

My worst experiences excluding being hit or nearly hit would be engaging with idiots that yell at me. Normally I let it go but sometimes I won't because I'm tired of it and I'll catch up to yell at them. For me to have the desire and ability to do this I've got to be pretty pissed which means I'm potentially running into a really shitty situation blind. I never worry about it in the moment, but after the fact in reflection I feel pretty stupid even if I haven't had anybody go physically psychotic on me.

I don't worry about getting injured while flying in an air plane, riding a buss, driving a car, or letting a co-worker who thinks she is the female version of Andretti drive me around. To me cycling isn't any more dangerous then any of these activities. Some of them its actually less dangerous. I try not to let fear paralyze me. I read what I can to learn how to ride the safest I can. I'll position myself in such a way that I'm the safest I can be based on experts and their research.

I'm not sure what would make me more comfortable on a bike. Maybe a bluetooth speaker that gives me several mounting options and has a quick release retention system so I can take it with me. Currently I'm using this I've modified it to work with a velco strap on its rubber mounting. I mount it on the stem just before the drop bars. I'd prefer other mounting options, and better battery life. Currently it only works for about 4-5 hours.

I put an Ibera Rack on my BikesDirect CX Bike without issues. I used the one for disk brakes. It can be installed at different angles, and I've never had a rattle or a squeak from it. I liked the way the Ibera looked, and it works well with its companion bags.

I only have the one bag, so the bike was unbalanced at a stand-still, but I really liked it. It has a shower-cap bag stowed in a bottom pocket for when it rains. I managed to put two 2-liters and my personal and work laptops in the one bag once. It was tight, but fit.

The TOPEAK bags and racks are much more popular, for sure.

If you have serious trouble with the screws squeaking, you can use split-washers to hold tension on them.

I agree, Lawrence has a bike line for a lot of it and is comparatively stress-free.

If you don't own a helmet mirror, I highly recommend getting one for the city. It gives you a little picture-in-picture of what's behind you, so you don't need to turn away from your path to check over your shoulder. I got a lot more comfortable biking in the city when I bought one.
https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1504314945&sr=1-2&keywords=helmet+mirror

I just posted pretty much the same thing about a week ago.

I ended up ordering this Two Fish Lockblocks Flashlight Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJXB5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0cY0xb9DM7MV3 to use with my Astrolux S1 and it works fantastically. But it took a while to get here so before that I was using a couple of rubber bands and a paper towel to protect the paint, haha.

Edit: the BLF A6, which is identical to the S1 is on sale right now on banggood.

Good catch. This one, then. And yes, on the seatpost clamp. Lots of them for like $5 from Amazon.

awesome, thanks man.

I went ahead and got this http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005YPK9VQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

So now i have a reg ulock, mini ulock, and the cable. As well as the pinhead nuts in the saddle/front wheel/steering.

Hopefully my bike will now at least be super inconvenient to steal.

I have this Origin-8 rack on the front of my Surly Ogre, and it has been amazing. It's just about the same thing for around $55 instead of $140, and it is super sturdy and light.

What's your price range? That affects the options quite a bit.

How dark is your area - are you looking for something to ensure cars can see you (i.e. do you have streetlights on your whole route) or are you going to need the light to actually see? That affects how much power you need.

For taillights, I love the PDW Danger Zone. Not that expensive, quite bright, and its variable flash setting is very attention getting. I have one on each of my bikes and never leave home without it.

For headlights, there are a lot of options out there. I commute down some dark bike trails at night, so I have a Niterider Minewt 600, which was the predecessor to their current Lumina 650. It's stunning - waterproof, durable, extremely bright (on high, I can go 20-25mph in pitch black with great confidence, and most of the time I just leave it on low or medium for fear of blinding people), very good battery life (I recharge it a couple times a month), and USB rechargable so I just bring it in at work occasionally and charge it there. It's not the cheapest, but if you're planning on bike commuting long term it's a solid investment (I've had mine for over a year and it shows no signs of dying any time soon).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DNG8DSY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those are the ones I got! Super easy to install, all they do is snap onto your spokes & you're all set!!

I have the bike peddler Take-A-Look mirror and like it. Easy to mount and easy enough to see out of.

https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ref=sr_1_1?crid=YBU3RDTRBIS7&keywords=take+a+look+bike+mirror&qid=1569019872&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=take+a+loo%2Csporting%2C194&sr=1-1

Pretty lucky to have gotten the bag that’s for sure! Rack is from Origin 8

Origin8 Classique Cargo HD Front Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B135SSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QDNSBbDF7YFCZ

I use one of these along with I really good CREE LED flash light and a Planet Bike Superflash tail light. I have the Planet Bike blaze, blaze 1watt, and blaze 2 watt headlights and find that they are just not bright enough for where I ride. (I ride on completely unlit roads). Although I do LOVE the mount on the Blaze headlights.

I use these, more than bright enough for road/ path use, easy to use settings, keeps me safe. I don't really feel like I need any more than what these have to offer, if I did come to that point, I'd got for a light with an external battery pack.

Front light is a Serfas elume 600: https://www.amazon.com/Serfas-Lume-Aluminum-Body-Headlight/dp/B01M24OTZ5

Rear light: https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Superflash-bike-light/dp/B000KBEH1W/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000KBEH1W&pd_rd_r=9445d122-5f86-11e8-8c7c-4dd2a68dec07&pd_rd_w=chLdr&pd_rd_wg=YID3e&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3914568618330124508&pf_rd_r=MHEJ7YYDSXNR3W7CW256&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=MHEJ7YYDSXNR3W7CW256

• Tubes: anything you find will work
  
• Patch kit: I like Einstein's patch kit because the patches are small, thin, and have feathered edges. Rema patches work too, but they're larger. I prefer small patches because the vast majority of tube failures are small punctures and the patch is already a zillion times larger than the hole. I dislike sticker patches and I don't trust them.
  
• Bike pump: The Lezyne pressure drive is small and dependable. Get the carbon fiber one if you want to save grams. I don't use a CO2 inflater because I think they are wasteful and of limited utility.
  
• Seat post bag: Really, anything will work
  
• Water bottle: Whatever you have lying around.
  
• Multitool: I like the Topeak Hexus II. It is compact, and has most of the tools you'll need for on-the-road fixes, including a chain tool.
  
• Pliers: There is NOTHING on your bike that you should use pliers on. Use the proper tools for the job.
  
• Tire levers: Any will work, but my favorites are the Soma steel core.
  
• Rear light: Anything will do. I like the Planet Bike Superflash.
  
• Front light: This totally depends on how often you commute in the dark, and what your environment is like. If you're riding on well-lit city streets, your needs will differ a lot from someone riding on rural roads or unlit trails. I use a SON generator hub with the Lumotec IQ Cyo and the combination is awesome. But not everyone needs that kind of setup.

I hear kool stops are pretty awesome. I know Comrades sells them and Amazon has them listed for roughly the same cost as those first ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

cygolite 350 worth every penny. You will BE SEEN and SEE everything. Don't skimp on lights, they could save your life one day.

this is a good rear light if you don't already have one.

I use the Planet Blinky taillight which is incredibly effective, and comes off it's base:

http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Blinky-eXtreme-Bicycle/dp/B000KBEH1W/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1377968714&sr=8-6&keywords=planet+blinky+taillight

I also use this flashlight for seeing at night, as it's really effective and still inexpensive:

http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Flare-Ultrabright-Aluminum-Flashlight-Gumetal/dp/B001LYYO10/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377968760&sr=8-1&keywords=nuflare+flashlight

With a handlebar flashlight mount which allows me to remove the light:

http://www.amazon.com/Como-Plastic-Bicycle-Flashlight-Holder/dp/B007SVEBKY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1377968782&sr=8-2&keywords=handlebar+flashlight+mount

Just search "v-brake brake pads" on amazon and most of those should work. I use this for my front brake because it doesn't squeak but it isn't that powerful. If you don't have a front wheel that squeals like mine then get these really powerful ones.

I just wanted to emphasize that you should get a U-lock and lights. The majority of bikes that get stolen had cables locking them.

This headlight and tail light are extraordinarily bright and well priced. It's worth your safety to spend thirty dollars for these, they're durable and easily attached and removed.

Werd, pretty much any rack will work if the brake is inside rear triangle.
If brake is mounted on back of the dropout, you need a disc specific rack.
There are two main types: the kind that is just spaced much wider, like this:
http://www.topeak.com/products/racks/explorertubularrack_discmount
And the kind that is set back further, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2
The set back kind gives you more heel clearance for panniers. But also mounts weight further back... tradeoffs.

Axiom DLX Streamliner Disc Cycle Rack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004094HY2/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_vJW0CbMTNBN21

​

Installed super easily. I'm only using it for fairly light loads. 15in laptop and a change of clothes (no shoes). If I was really going to load it up I'd probably change the top mount to one that clamps the seatpost.

guess it's this one? Still 1.1kg and quite small? However, seess like the best one so far...

Lol, thats the exact trailer that I have. I saw a rack on Amazon that looks like it's going to work. I guess I shouldnt really worry about bags till I have a decent rack. What do you think about this one? It's going on a mountain bike http://www.amazon.com/Ibera-Bicycle-Touring-IB-RA4-Frame-mounted/dp/B002T5H8MW/ref=pd_sbs_sg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=15ERRXQWVPB797C5PFR2

It's a 2013 Motobecane Gran Premio. Steel frame with Shimano 105 parts on it. There will be some slight white scratches on the left side of the top tube.

Everything you see in the first photo was on the bike except for the camelbak bottles. This includes [a Satechi Bikemate Slim Case] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006N0T674/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), a [Cosmos bike speaker] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WO7ECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), an Avenir Big Mouth bag, a Mirrycle bell, a Planet Bike Super Flash, and two Topeak black plastic adjustable bottle cages.

The bike was stolen near Johnson and Wales university. I previously registered the bike and serial with the police in my hometown and I will be able to recover the serial number tomorrow.

Thanks in advance for keeping an eye out!

Do you really need/want to replace your bottom bracket?

Looks like a square taper crankset. That should be easy to find and replace without touching the bottom bracket. You'll need a crank puller, something like this

My absolutely fav tail light. Bright, with a wicked flasher mode that is great even in the day.

http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Danger-Light/dp/B00435IPFK/ref=lp_2367799011_1_11?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1413947269&sr=1-11

I still own a car, but I live in the downtown area of Seattle and I've recently started biking a lot of places after my bike sat in my apartment for 2 years. It's been great, I no longer feel guilty about not going to the gym, and I don't have to buy almost any gas for my car. Also, I can get places a lot quicker than driving (and looking for parking in the city) or oftentimes even taking the bus. I bought a bike rack and some baskets and now I can go to the grocery store and carry everything home on my bike, even gallons of milk. It's great.

2 locks is all well and good, but very often overkill. Use non-quick release wheels and seat (just carry a wrench), then use small, tough u-lock like this one

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch-5-5-Inch/dp/B005YPK9C0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406144900&sr=8-4&keywords=kryptonite+u+lock

lock it through the back wheel, you dont need to actually lock the frame, as long as the back wheel is secured through the rear triangle of the frame. Cutting a wheel rim is impractical.

I like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Blitzu-Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC

They are USB rechargeable a decent form factor, moderately water resistant and bright enough to be seen. They make a front and a rear. I have a set on each of my bikes. They are long and narrow and you can change the orientation by 90 degrees so you can put it in line with your handlebars or turn it 90 to be in line with your seat post so they blend well in daylight.

Some lights and a helmet are top on my list. Any recommendations on lights? I've got Prime so Amazon makes sense to get something quick and likely cheaper than a local shop. This is what I'm leaning towards. Areas I'd ride at night are pretty visible, so definitely just need something to alert surrounding cars.

Rear light

Front light

Nothing wrong with the reflectors. But if you want something nicer looking, spoke sticks are a good candidate and are highly visible at night.

With the right BB, Yes. Take the R-der as well, you can use it for parts. Looks like a square tapered BB.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Tool+for+removing+square+tapered+BB&qid=1562026322&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-2

This the tool to remove it

Thanks so much for all of the feedback!

I ended up purchasing VENZO Bicycle Bike Torque Wrench Allen Key Tool Socket Set and BIKEHAND Bike Bicycle Repair Tool Kit with the addition of cable cutters.

Last night I watched this guy assemble a bike which allowed me to see which tools were needed:

How to Build a Bike Series

I will keep everyone posted on my progress. All the necessary parts and tools should be delivered by March, 20th! Stay tuned.

Yeah I really like it, it's single speed though (but not fixed gear) which may turn some people off. But it's easier to take care of myself than a geared bike is.

In most cases you'll be fine leaving it outside during the day for a few hours. If you have lights, you'll probably want to get in the habit of taking them with you though when you lock it up.

When you do lock up, you're gonna want one of these Kryptonite locks to lock the frame to the post and the bendy chain thing to wrap around the wheel and the U-lock. You could also get these Pinhead locks to lock your tires in a set it and forget it sort of way. You can get these at most bike shops.

I don't know anything about bike alarms. The key to not getting your bike stolen is don't be lazy about it.

Seconding the road bike + trainer route - I've had good luck so far with this cheap trainer from Amazon.

I use one of these guys on my glasses. Had a lot of isues with helmet-mounted ones not staying stuck, and wound up super-gluing the last one to my previous helmet so needed a different option when I bought a new one.

Some people think they're dorky, but 'eh. I like it, and IMO its safer than turning my head 180 degrees to look behind me.

You should get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Unlimited-Flashlite-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E

I use one and it works great, plus your light is easily removable if you park in a less-than-safe neighborhood.

I have the older version of this light.

It has seen over 7,000 miles of use, all sorts of weather conditions , and is two and a half years old now. It' still working although the USB port cover came off and the charging cable needs to put it and wiggled to get it to charge so I'm not expecting to get much longer out of it.

For the $15 I paid, it's been great value for money.

I HATE seatpost racks. The problem is with only 1 attachment point, they tend to swing around behind you a little. They also don't carry much.

They do make racks for bikes without rack mounts though.

A cheaper one is the Axiom Streamliner Disc:
http://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2/

A lighter but more expensive one (that is designed to be a rack solution on full carbon bikes as well as others) is the BONTRAGER BACKRACK LIGHTWEIGHT:
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/equipment/cycling-accessories/bike-racks/bontrager-backrack-lightweight/p/08214

They both work the same way - at the top they attach under the rear brake bridge. At the bottom they attach via the wheel skewer, putting the weight of anything on the rack right onto the wheel axel (same place your bodyweight goes).

P.S. I see someone else said something similar and mentioned some of these racks below as well.

Other users have mentioned lights and vests, so I'll mention a very cheap, useful visibility enhancement: spoke reflectors.

Put these on the spokes of one half of each of your wheels. (By that, I mean for example on all the spokes of the top half of the wheel when it's at rest.) It will improve your visibility to drivers approaching from the side, and you will be immediately recognizable as a cyclist. The drivers will see reflective strips moving around in circles and immediately think "wheels".

(If you get these, take them off your bike when you clean and re-lube your chain. I learned the hard way that when they get oil/grease on them they lose a lot of reflectivity.)

Well, you can have something like this - http://www.amazon.com/Steel-U-Lock-Bike-Motorcycle-Lock/dp/B007Z4WE8U/ref=sr_1_4?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1420609090&sr=1-4 - which is technically a U-lock... or one like this.. http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Standard-Bicycle-Transit-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_cy_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KK8C2HG9ZJ4V9ANHZVK

As far as a lock goes, your best bet is a U-Lock with cable (similar to this - try to buy it locally!) AND to take it up to your apartment when you're home. There is absolutely no reason to leave your bike outside your apartment, even on the balcony. If you can fit it into your apartment that will be the best way to prevent it from getting stolen, and also keep the components from corroding from the humidity.

$150 for two locks. A nice U-Lock and a nice cable lock presumably. She probably overpaid, but maybe something like this and this.

Yeah for just a platform rack, you could even look at the Origin8 CargoHD. I have one on my around towner and I love it.

You didn't say what your budget is or what you'd consider a great deal but here is a good option

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SPD-SL-Road-Pedals-Black/dp/B000P9TOHQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1374857472&sr=1-5&keywords=shimano+105+pedal $40

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-apparel/2013-lake-cx200-shoes-37546.5.1.html $52

You need something like a crank puller such as

(assuming its a square taper or similar)

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Puller-Square-Cranks/dp/B001VS1M20/

to remove the old crank. Depending on the prices of your local bike shop, its probably cheaper to buy the tool and DIY.

It should be a fairly straight forward job, assuming that you are fairly handy. The key thing to look out for is making sure you put the cranks on tight enough, but not overly so that it cracks the crank. Then there are some other minor adjustments that you might need to make. E.g the front derailluer/shift probably need to be adjusted, it might be as simple as to playing around with the cable and limiting screws, or you might need to adjust the height of the derailleur.

If you are new at this, you probably need to spend a good afternoon to swap it over.

So it depends on $$$$ vs time.

I bought an inexpensive tool kit (not from Park Tool) for $50 a few months ago when I needed a chain whip and a Shimano cassette lock ring tool, which would have cost nearly as much to buy separately, and the kit gave me a bunch of other tools, as well. Some of the tools I already had, some I haven't used, some tools are of mediocre quality (e.g., the pedal wrench and spoke nipple wrenches both work, but they're not well-designed for ergonomics or leverage), and there are some tools that I use frequently which weren't included (notably, a cable cutter). On the whole, though, it was a good purchase that quickly paid for itself in terms of savings over the cost of making individual purchases of all the tools I've used from it.

Park Tool makes tools that cost a bit more, and for that you get the peace of mind that it'll be reasonably well-designed and solidly manufactured. For many tools that you aren't sure you'll need, you can get greater value -- more kinds of maintenance and repair you can do off the bat for less outlay -- by buying them in a cheaper kit and supplementing them with tools it didn't include or better tools for those that you've found to be of inadequate construction or poor design.

How about Axiom Streamliner disc. Inexpensive and works quite well.

https://www.amazon.com/Axiom-Streamliner-Disc-Cycle-Black/dp/B004094HY2

I have a road version. I think that Diverge's rear spacing is 135mm so the road version requires to widen at the rear dropout. So, yes, you could use any rack but disc specific prob. is easier to install.

I use this on my rear rack and LOVE it! https://smile.amazon.com/Wald-Folding-Bicycle-Basket-12-75/dp/B0012DZEBY/ref=sr_1_23?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1469217876&sr=1-23&keywords=bike+basket

Any rack should do, you will just have it sit higher. You can also get adjustable height tack like this one.

​

Edit: this one has a better adjustment for top connection.

I use this Kryptonite lock in SF, but 75% of the time I don't have the cable with me. I do have security skewers though. The lock is smaller but will secure the back wheel to parking meters and leaves minimal space.

One of the best investments I made was a full set of tools, and a how-to book. YouTube is useful, but the book works well for me.

Here are some deals I've seen and when they come up or shut down. (All times are Pacific)


USB Rechargable Bike Tail Light on sale at 3:45

Foam Rollers go on sale at 4

Kryptonite 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock, Black Goes on sale at 3

Revolights bicycle lighting system Midnight

Womens Pearl Izumi Shorts

Pearl Izumi Jerseys 4:00

Different pearl izumi bibs

Pearl Izumi shorts 5:45

Pearl Izumi bibs as shown below 4:45

Canari womens shorts

Brooks saddles bicycle bar tap 2:45

Yakima DoubleDown 4-Bike Hitch Mount Rack 4:45

Very compact sleeping bag 4:30

Compact first aid kit 3:00

Kryptonite Evolution Mini-5 Bicycle Ulock 3:35

headlamp 5:30

Polar Heart Rate Monitor 3:30

LED Strobe Lights 2:30

Youphoria Sport Towel ends at 3:15ish



Sram Bar Tape ends at 2:50
Kryptonite NY Standard on sale 6:50

https://www.amazon.com/BIKEHAND-Bike-Bicycle-Repair-Tool/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504546888&sr=8-1&keywords=bike+tool+set

This a pretty good tool set for all basic repairs. Use youtube to learn how to use the tools and make any basic repair.

Does she have a U lock? The nice and thick U locks can be somewhat expensive so I think it'd be a good gift.

Also a nice multitool is crucial for serious cyclists to fix stuff on the go and to just have an all in one tool for working on the bike at home.

nice!

try out these. look much better and are way more visible

https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

Ok, I assume you have a very, very low budget so here are some options for you:

• Find someones couch to crash on for now. Preferably someone with an internet connection
  
• Build some Kitty Litter Panniers for now or a back pack (you will regret only having a back pack) ($15-$30) - see if you can make 4 of them provided you can take a front rack. Two if you can not.
  
• Get a camping hammock with a rain fly or a bivy tent (I have no ideas if either of those are good, I'm just going cheap) ($50-90)
  
• Get a sleeping pad ($30)
  
• Get two racks if your bike can take them. One for the front and one for the back ($60)
  
• Get a small tarp (I am sure you can find better than this, perhaps even locally) for those days with REALLY bad weather. ($7)
  
• Get a pancho or other cheap rain gear ($15)
  
• Get some bungee cords ($5)
  
• Get camping pans ($15)
  
• Get a lighter ($0.50)
  
• You could build a camping stove but I can't vouch for how well these work. You might want a proper one ($5-$50)
  
• Get a pump (follow the recommendations others have made) $20-$50
  
• Get a tool kit and some spare parts (I really like the Survival Gear Box) $50-75
  
  So maybe $275-375 total cost before food and water? Man, that's still high...

Yeah, definitely go with a solid U-lock. Cable locks can be cut in less than 30 seconds. I recommend the Kryptonite Mini-7 w/ cable or the Kryptonite New York u-locks. They both come with theft insurance (provided you register the locks and the bikes they'll be locking within 15 days of purchase).

Edit: or check out the gear Wiki

Check out the Origin8 Front Cargo Rack, it's much more solidly build and has double the rated weight capacity.

https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Classique-Cargo-Front-Rack/dp/B00B135SSE

I used mine fully loaded up for a 2 week offroad bikepacking trip which included a good bit of rugged singletrack and it held up great, and that was after using it for two years to haul myself and all my stuff around the city on my commuter.

It doesn't work with thru axels but will work okay on fender mounts if you use washers.

I bought this Oneinitially and then got a cycleops one second hand from a friend. Other than being slightly more awkward to take the bike on and off of, the cheap trainer is just as nice/quiet.

I have a fitness wish list, and have never really had to lose weight.1

This would be good, it converts a regular bike into a stationary one for indoor fitness:

http://www.amazon.com/Magnet-Bicycle-Indoor-Exercise-Trainer/dp/B004I576SM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1459382064&sr=1-1&keywords=indoor+bike+stand

I bought one of these for my normal bike and just spin while I play ssb. My ability at both of these activities has markedly increased.

Make it go completely flat first to make it easy and pry a section of the tire away then just squirt sealant in. Get yourself a couple of these to make it easy.

I too was in your position OP. And I researched about portability comfort. Use of ingress and egress and style and price! My recommendation after 1yr of service is the mother fucking Wald folding basket. This thing is this shit. Here's why: it's cheap. Less than 30$. It looks good folded up! I can drop my backpack in it with my 16" laptop and a few books with ease. All that content being in my back pack. Once I get to school I just take my backpack out of the basket and folded it up if I want to or I just leave. It's awesome! http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012DZEBY?pc_redir=1410667964&robot_redir=1

They're nice and durable. I've placed 40lbs of stuff in it no prob. And all this ortlieb stuff is nice but way too fucking expensive if you ask me. And some of it looks weird as a backpack. Then the hooks That connect to your rack are running against your back and just ugh. This allows you to retain your original book bag

I ride with these and I absolutely love them. They do everything I want them too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P9TOHQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1