A rifle: I personally suggest the Classic Army KM10, but the KM12, Delta 10/12, EC1/2, and ISSC MK22 are exactly the same internally. G&G Combat Machines, like a G&G CM18 are also very nice and popular starter guns.

Extra mags: My personal favorite are G&P High RPS. They're pretty tight in most guns but are well priced, look nice, and feed well. They fit well in Combat Machines, but I've never tested with Classic Army. Some others that fit in Combat Machines, and probably Classic Army, are Ares Ameobas and PTS EPMs. For mid-caps you'll need a speedloader. For high caps, it's not needed.

Battery: I'd suggest a 7.4v Lipo or 9.6v nimh. If you're going Lipo, buy from Hobbyking. They sell decent batteries for cheap. I'm not sure the exact dimensions of the stock each uses, but this 7.4v 2000mah 15-25c would probably fit in both and run them fine. It has a huge capacity so it'll last a while. For a charger, the Imax B6 will do everything you need it to (Charge, discharge, some other stuff) and the price isn't bad. I'd also suggest a Voltage checker for Lipos. The Classic Armys will come with a 9.6v nimh and a shitty charger. For those, just get a new smart charger. The G&Gs have a battery bundle that'll give you a 9.6v nimh and smart charger.

Head protection: For eyepro, I love Pyramex. Pyramex I-force are my personal favorite, and the V2G-XP are very good as well. They're also rebranded by Valken and are known as Valken Zulus and Sierras. The One Tigris mesh mask is by far the best lower face protection I've used. Hard cover where you need it (teeth, nose, lips) and still covers your cheeks. It's also very comfy and lets you get good cheek weld, so you can see down your sights easily. I also wear a hat and Howard Leight impact sports

Gloves: Hand shots hurt. A lot. Some nice gloves like Mechanix M-pacts are a god-send in game.

chest rig: If you want to carry extra mags, the Condor Rapid Assualt is a nice and cheap way to carry them. 6 M4 mag pouches and a lot of MOLLE to attach other pouches. It's also super adjustable and can fit almost every body type.

BBs: I almost exclusively use Elite Force .28g Bio. They're just the best BBs I've used and aren't crazy expensive. You'll have to find a weight that's best for you (Maybe buy a sample pack?) but .28s are generally best in stock guns.

Camo isn't that important, but I love my LBX Combat Uniform. The shirt uses a thin-ish material in the chest and back which is great if you're using a plate carrier or chest rig, while the arms, and pants, are made of a thick material that really takes away the sting of BBs, but still leaves enough that you can feel hits. I also like having an outfit specifically for airsoft. The pants also fit knee pad inserts. All that being said, jeans and a hoodie are perfectly fine.

1. Tent: Eagles Peak II Two person tent - http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=50802926
   -This was generous gift from my SO's mom. It may not be the best tent out there, but at free it can't be beat.
   
   
2. Sleeping Bag: Marmot Aspen Minimalist 40 - http://www.trailspace.com/gear/marmot/aspen-40-ultralight/
   -Got this for its small size and light weight. Future winter camping trips are a possibility, in which case I plan on snagging a wool blanket of sleeping bag liner.
   
   
3. Sleeping Pad: RidgeRest Classic - http://www.amazon.com/Therm-A-Rest-6433-Parent-RidgeRest-Classic-Mattress/dp/B00HZ13OYG
   -Simple basic sleeping pad, I've been using these since scouts and have wanted for nothing more, especially because of its light weight.
   -In the event of winter camping, is this enough to insulate from the ground? If not, what could be added to my sleep system to keep me insulated from the ground?
   
   
4. Cookware: Pot Pan stackable combo - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQZEYWE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
   -Lightweight and simple, these were cheap and seemed straight forward.
   -They stack with the majority of either piece's empty space facing each other, allowing for decently dry storage for matches etc. inside.
   -Comes with a tight fitting mesh ditty bag
   
   
5. Small Camp Grill - Coghlan's Camp Grill - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OPHA0S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
   -Another straight forward and cheap piece,
   -This is really an optional piece, I plan on bringing it along on trips with big groups or when cooking meat is in the cards.
   
   
6. Plates x2: Coleman Enamel plates - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009PUSPI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
   -These are the camping gold standard in my book, been using them since scouts.
   
   
7. Stuff Sacks x3: REI pack of 3 Ditty Sacks 2, 3, and 7 liter. -http://www.rei.com/product/795047/rei-ditty-sack-package-of-3
   -Came in a decently affordable combo pack, plan on using them for food/toiletries storage and bear bags.
   
   
8. Knife: Morakniv Companion Straight Knife - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TNWD40?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
   -Love this little knife, cheap but durable and was a shaver straight out of the box.
   -Came with a super thick plastic sheath
   
   9)Hatchet: Estwing Hatchet - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TNWD40?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
   -Heard this was a classic, people say they've still got the one's their grandfather's used. It's heavy, but I'm happy with the tradeoff.
   -Got it sharpened well enough to cleanly slice through paper at the moment
   
   
9. Axe Sharpener: Lansky Dual Grit Sharpener - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8FW0Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
   -Great sharpener, pretty much the go to field sharpener from what I've gathered.
   -Only took a couple minutes to learn how to use, the only hard part is consistently following the bevel through each stroke, but it gets easier.
   
   
10. Camp Towels x2: Microfiber quick-drying towels - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8FW0Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
    -Very great, medium size towels with their own tote
    
    
11. Collapsible Water Jug: REI 2.5 gallon collapsible water jug - http://www.rei.com/product/402099/reliance-fold-a-carrier-water-carrier-25-gal
    -Seems great, picked it up at REI physical store then read reviews and got spooked, we'll see though, a minority of the reviewers swear by it.
    -Just in case it sucks, any suggestions for a collapsible water container of equal size/price?
    
    
12. Water Bags x2: 33 oz Bag style canteens - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010OLZ3E2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
    -These came free with my water filter, and they have many good reviews. If they do well, I may buy some extras.
    
    
13. Wine Skin: 2L - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CN4RN42?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
    -More showing of my primitivist ass, and I thought I could take some weight off of my SO by carrying enough water for the two of us.
    
    
14. Pillows x2: Field and Stream - http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=33581126
    -Got these a long time ago when I knew less, they are pretty bulky and my first item I want to replace
    
    
15. Pack: Kelty Redwing 50L Black
    -SO's mom gifted this this Christmas, so amazing and thoughtful, one of the best gifts I've ever gotten and I love the color
    
    
16. Shoes: Skechers Trail Runners - I found these at the thrift store for a stunning 12 bucks and they fit perfectly
    
    
17. Lighting: Outlite Lantern -http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01178FLM0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
    -Pack of flashlights (might not bring all four) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V639BNC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01
    
    
18. Extras: Tarp as groundcloth, some extra stakes.
    
    Items not shown:
    -Always a tin or bag of Drum Tobacco and papers
    -Kindle, old generation one
    -Collapsible trowel
    -Paracord
    -Burlap shoulder bag for gathering kindling etc
    
    Items still wanted (suggestions greatly appreciated):
    -Knife for SO
    -Work gloves
    -Plastic flasks for booze
    -Belt pouch
    -Higher quality tarp
    -Knife Sharpener
    -Sleeping bag liner or wool blanket
    -Any food suggestions!
    -Rain cover for pack
    -Smell proof food bags
    
    I don't have much experience outside of scouts, so I'm very open to critique of my setup. I will warn that I am very much into primitivism, and camping for me is a gateway to a backcountry, esthetic lifestyle I one day I hope to live, so some of my gear choices may not always be the most efficient. Any advice from a primitivist or purist standpoint is doubly appreciated.
    
    

Buy yourself a decent bolt action .22 or a shotgun, a good 3-5" fixed blade knife, a blaze orange hat or vest, and a decent little first aid kit (don't forget a tourniquet).


Step 1: Take a hunters safety/education class.

Some states have classes exclusively for adults. This will give you some basic, but good info on gun/bow safety and state laws pertaining to hunting. In addition, they should have pamphlets that will outline the different hunting seasons, game animals, invasive species, and state/federal hunting areas.

These classes might also help you meet some more experienced folks who could bring you along or offer some valuable advice.


Step 2: Learn how to use your gear.

Your ability with your gear can mean the difference between success and failure on the hunt--and in some cases life and death (especially pertaining to your med kit).

Let's start with the rifle. I like bolt action .22's. You can get a very accurate gun and learn how to use it for very little money. Using a bolt action .22 with iron sights forces the shooter to learn the fundamentals of marksmanship, building a solid foundation for the future.

I like the Savage MkII and the Ruger American.

With either rifle I'd recommend adding a peep sight and a regular 2 point sling.
Both are accurate and inexpensive rifles that you can shoot day in and day out for years.

You should be able to find a range with at least 50 yards to sight in (aka zero) your rifle. If you need guidance here, there are plenty of online resources, however, you'd do better to ask an experienced shooter for a hand. Be sure to use the same ammo for zero and hunting.

For shotguns you can't beat the versatility of a Remington 870 or Mossberg 500. Get either gun in 12 or 20 gauge. The beauty of these two is that you are always a simple barrel change away from being able to shoot birdshot (birds small game) or slugs (everything else).

With a good .22 and a good shotgun, you should be able to hunt most wild game in North America. There are better calibers and rifles for specific hunting applications but those two will do it all.

What I don't recommend for hunting rifles/shotguns and why:

1 I don't like scopes (at first). Forcing yourself to learn on iron sights means you develop a firm foundation in the fundamentals. I remember wanting a scope for my .22 so bad, so my dad made me a deal. I had to kill 100 red squirrels or starlings and 10 groundhogs before he'd let me add a scope. It took me the better part of a summer to accomplish this but I walked away from that summer being able to put lead on just about anything within 150 yards of that little rifle.

2 I don't like autoloaders (at first). Simply because shooting a bolt gun means you have one, maybe two shots to get the job done. You learn to make ever shot count. Once you are proficient, go wild.

3 I don't like tactical/tacticool rifles for beginners or really hunting for that matter. They are usuallly auto loaders (see #2), heavier, and more expensive. You don't feel so bad taking your $230 Savage through brambles, tripping over roots and dropping it, or leaning it up against a rusty fence post. If you don't trust me, look at what the professional hunters use.

Extras: buy a quality, brass rod cleaning kit and some decent gun oil (or CLP) for deep cleans. Keep a [Bore Snake](.22 .223 .25 CAL Bore Snake Cleaner Kit Cord Rope Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JKSNVTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XRfGzbN7P8Z58) in an extra pocket for the times you get dirt or debris in the barrel.


Get yourself a good knife. I always have my pocket knife (a CRKT M21-02G) and a skinner when I'm hunting.

For a pocket knife use what suits you. For a skinner I really like knives like the Schrade Old Timer 158 for general skinning and this blade from Ontario Knife.

You also need a good way to keep your knives sharp. I've had a lot of luck with the. [Lansky System](Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_85fGzbBRJDH6K).


Last, please get yourself a decent med kit. Too many people have died in the woods due to a knife accident or gun accident that could have been easily treated.

You can easily make yourself a basic kit or buy one like [this](Ever Ready First Aid Meditac Tactical Trauma IFAK Kit with Trauma Pack Quickclot and Israeli Bandage in Molle Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAAMS2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iagGzb76NGQZJ) pre-made.

This kit has everything you need except for a tourniquet like [this](Tourniquet - (Black) Recon Medical Gen 3 Mil-Spec Kevlar Metal Windlass Aluminum Lightweight First Aid Tactical Swat Medic Pre-Hospital Life Saving Hemorrhage Control Registration Card (1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ETMVQOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fcgGzbSAMKAWS) and an Israeli Bandage like [this](Ever Ready Bandage Battle Dressing First Aid Compression Bandage, 6 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DPVERM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1cgGzb9C9H5WP).

You can learn to use all this stuff over the course of an hour via YouTube. You would do better to find a nurse, paramedic, or Navy Corpsman to give you a crash course in the use of the contents of your IFAK. If you can find a Corpsman, they are probably the best for this kind of thing. Lots of good tips and tricks for field use...plus you can pay them in beer.

Don't forget to add extras like any medication you might need, chapstick, Bayer aspirin (good for headaches and heart attacks), a little tube of antibacterial ointment, and a couple fabric bandages.

If you won't carry this on your person, keep it in your vehicle.

For good practice I like squirrel and rabbit hunting. Makes you consider a lot about safety, a lot about taking only the good shots, plus they are easy to clean and good to eat.


Last learn how to use what you kill.

If you are hunting varmits, that is one thing. I shoot invasive species (when legal), and varmits that are causing a nuisance and that is reason enough for me.

If you are hunting anything else for exclusively for sport, please use it. You can use some of the books referenced earlier to learn about skinning and field dressing. I like to watch shows like Meat Eater, to learn better ways to use the meat I've harvested. Once you get into cooking game meat, you will wonder why you ever went to the store for meat.

Just don't forget that hunting is about stewardship and learning. It's a lifelong pursuit that is very rewarding.

Always be safe, always be ethical, always be responsible, always have fun.

Edit: If you ever find yourself in south central or southwest Michigan, I can help you with anything I've outlined above. I'm a lifelong hunter, a lifelong shooter, a small arms instructor in the military, a certified combat lifesaver, and a decent game cook.

It's definitely enough for a nice knife, though you might want to go a bit higher for a great knife. The KaBar BK2 is actually designed with things like batoning (hammering the knife through wood as a kind of faux hatchet using another piece of wood against the blade of the knife as the hammer itself) or chopping. It's a bit over $60, currently available for $69 to be precise, but as long as you don't flat out abuse it (prying heavy things, for example) it'll serve you well and quite possibly for the rest of your natural life.

At a lower price, you can get the Condor Bushlore, which at $35 is a perfectly valid choice that will serve you well indeed.

For an even lower price yet, the Mora Heavy Companion is from one of those few cheaper knife companies that does incredible work. I wouldn't baton with it, honestly, but even if you did it'd probably hold up just fine.

At a more expensive range, the Ontario Rat-5 is an amazing bushcraft knife. The Fallkniven Pilot Survival Knife is also an amazing knife. The Benchmade Bone Collector is spectacular knife made in D2 tool steel, one of the better steels available at that price. Another amazing knife is the Spyderco Bushcraft made in O1 tool steel. Finally, the Benchmade 162 is a pretty amazing knife.

One thing you'll notice about all of these knives with the exception of the Pilot Survival knife and the BM 162 is that they're all carbon steel knives. Carbon steel is a lot tougher than stainless (with a few very, very rare exceptions I'd never trust a long knife to be stainless steel) with the trade off of being a lot more of a hassle to take care of, since it needs to be regularly cleaned and oiled.

If you want a fire starter, carry a magnesium fire starter. With the carbon steel knives, you can probably strike it against the back of the blade to create the sparks you'll want and if not (like with some of the coated ones) you'll be carrying the striker anyway.

For sharpening, you'll want to get a decent sharpening setup and start stropping. A couple of easy sharpening systems would be the superior Spyderco Sharpermaker (usually available on Amazon around the $50 mark) or the Lansky Sharpening system which while cheaper isn't as good. You could take the time to learn how to free hand it, but most casual users don't care that much because it takes a long time to get proficient at freehand sharpening. Stropping is running the blade against something like smooth leather (usually smooth leather, actually) to remove burrs along the blade of a knife made by use and sharpening and the restore a blade to a better edge without removing metal. Stropping allows for a level of sharpness unachievable by sharpening alone and extends a knife's lifetime by allowing sharpness to be achieved for longer without removing metal from the blade. To learn how to strop, watch videos on YouTube or check out guides from the sidebar of /r/knives.

Finally, if you want a whistle, just carry a whistle. If you want a mirror for signaling, carry a small signaling mirror or mirror polish the knife you buy (a process where you sand the blade with increasing grit level sandpaper until it shines like the sun and you can see yourself in the blade).

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

Congratulations!

• Personally I would recommend either a Remington 700 over the 783. There's nothing wrong with the 783, but the 700's fit, finish as well as the overall quality is just superior and I'm a firm believer in the "buy once, cry once" philosophy, especially with firearms. If you buy the 783, my bet is that as you get a little more serious about shooting, you'll end up buying a 700.
  
  
• With all that said, if you're not hell bent on buying a Remington, I personally would go with a Tikka T3 (there are many, many models). Overall it's about the same as a Remington 700 in terms of quality, but the bolt action is just silky smooth and the trigger pull is wonderful. I'm biased because I'm a bit of a Tikka fan, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
  
  
• In regards to the .308 calibre, again I'm a bit biased because my rifle is in .308 but regardless, I think .308 is the way to go. It's easily found, and comes in a variety of weight from (approximately) 120gr to 200gr so you have a choice of choosing a lighter bullet for smaller game or a heavier bullet for larger game.
  
  
• To pass the time while your PAL/RPAL is being processed, I strongly suggest buying high quality safety equipment You don't have to break the bank, but don't skimp. Apart from that I'd say buy a good soft case, and later down the road you can buy a hard case (my personal favourite is the Pelican 1750). Here's a little list....
  
  
• Ear protection: Howard Leight Impact Sport and Howard Leight earplugs (Personally I use both-- you only get one pair of ears!)
  
  
• Eye protection: Smith Aegis Arc (DS Tactical is a great company to deal with)
  
  
• Hard case: Pelican 1750 (Production Case is a nice Canadian company with prices way better than anywhere else and great customer service)
  
  
• Bipod: Harris Engineering (widely considered the best bang for your buck product-- I use the 9-13 inch because I'm a bit taller, but most people like the 6-9)
  
  
• Soft case: Cabela's drag bag-- great product at a great price.
  
  
  
• Torque wrench: VERY important in my opinion, as I see way too many people over-torquing their gear (i.e. scope mount screws) and messing things up. Wheeler Torque Wrench-- this is what I use. It's reasonably priced and I use it all the time when I'm working on my rifle. I know plenty of people say they're not necessary, but they'll save you from major headaches in the future.
  
  
• Bonus: When you buy your scope, DO THIS to level it. I've tried all kinds of methods, but this by far the best (assuming your rifle is levelled first). It's so simple, but so effective.
  
  
  Anyway, I hope this helps. I'll check back in a little bit (studying for finals right now) if I think of anything else.
  

I'm just going to use this space to write a potential post and then copypasta it to the mods, see if they wanna use it.

Hello! This is sk8s's guide to the holidays!

You're probably here looking for gift ideas for the gun enthusiast in your life. Now, each individual person is unique and preferences, but here's a little launching pad to get you started.

Here is a list of stocking stuffers for the shooting enthusiast in your life, in no particular order.

• Ammo - Can't shoot a gun if you don't have ammo for it. Know what caliber (size) of ammo to get. If it's a handgun or a rifle, most guns won't be terribly picky about what brand it is. Depending on the caliber, the prices can vary greatly. A box of practice 9mm (50 rounds) will be in the $10-15 range, whereas a box of practice .45 ACP (50 rounds) will cost about $20-$25. Whether it's bulk practice ammo or a box of match grade ammo, it will be enjoyed immensely.
  
  
• Eye and ear protection - I have a pair of these in my bag as a loaner pair (and I use them frequently if I forget my nice pair). Lucky Gunner has a fairly comprehensive guide for eyepro. As for hearing protection, Gunnit recommends the Howard Leight Impact Sport electronic earmuffs. I have them, I love them. A pack of regular foam earplugs is great as well for doubling up at an indoor range.
  
  
• Targets - Gotta have something to shoot at. A pack of paper targets makes a great, cheap stocking stuffer. I like the Shoot-n-see targets for when I'm shooting with friends, and these for when I'm trying to shoot the best I can. However, there can be something quite satisfying about hearing the ring of a bullet hitting steel. If the person has a .22LR, this is an incredibly fun target. My buddy and I have shot well over 2000 rounds at his, and it's just as fun every time. For a centerfire handgun or rifle, check out MOA targets for some great steel targets.
  
  
• Range bag - gotta take all the crap to the range in style! The most recommended range bag here is the Midway USA compact competition range bag. My favorite bag that I've seen (and will probably buy soon) is the GPS Range Bag, but that's because I'm anal about organizing my crap.
  
  
• Range membership - Range fees can be very expensive. A range pass or membership allows the shooter in your life to go whenever they want!
  
  
• Concealed weapons permit class - Has someone in your life been in a situation where they wished they had a gun to protect them? Is someone looking to have gun to prevent that situation from happening? Pay for them to go get their concealed weapons permit. They may or may not carry, but if the state allows it, it is never a bad idea to have such a permit. You know, just in case.
  
  Now, these are all just some generic questions and are not intended to be a one-size-fits-all solution (though I'm of the opinion that nobody will turn down ammo). Feel free to comment if you have any questions and we can help you out! Happy holidays!
  

Most people will probably recommend an AR-15, a 12-guage pump shotgun, or a 9mm pistol; but I've actually been moving away from those types of guns after I started to learn more about how much permanent damage firearms do to your hearing. If you ever shoot an AR-15 or a shotgun indoors without hearing protection, you'll probably rupture your eardrums and hear an annoying ringing sound for the rest of your life. So, I'd prefer to avoid that if possible. That's why I recently bought a 9mm carbine (a 9mm rifle with a shoulder stock and a 16-inch barrel) as my new primary home defense weapon. Yeah, you lose out on some terminal performance (killing power), but 30-ish rounds of 147-grain 9mm Federal HST should be enough to deal with 99.999% of home invaders.

An AR-15 chambered in 5.56x45mm NATO will create about 167 decibels (anything above 140 decibels will permanently damage your hearing); a rifle chambered in .308 Winchester will create 170+ decibels; a 9mm pistol with a 4-inch barrel will create about 160 decibels; a 9mm carbine with a 10-inch barrel will create about 156 decibels; and a 9mm carbine with a 16-inch barrel will create about 152 decibels. I haven't been able to find reliable information about how many decibels a 12-gauge shotgun creates, but it's probably in the 160s.

152 decibels still isn't hearing safe; but the difference between 152 decibels and 167 decibels is huge since sound doubles in strength every 3 decibels. 152 decibels will still hurt your ears and cause permanent hearing damage if you hear it repeatedly; but it won't completely destroy your ears like a 5.56x45mm rifle or a 12-gauge shotgun will.

And the reason why I went with a 9mm carbine over a 9mm pistol is because carbines are much easier to aim, you get much quicker followup shots, you get a little bit more bullet velocity (and thus foot-pounds of energy and terminal performance), and there's still a large sound difference between 152 decibels and 160 decibels.

As to which specific 9mm carbines I recommend, I'll give you 3 different options to choose from.

The cheapest option: The Kel-Tec Sub-2000 Gen 2 ($500-ish but hard to find). I'm personally not a fan of Kel-Tec quality standards and aesthetics, but the Kel-Tec Sub-2000 is one of the few firearms that Kel-Tec makes that the vast majority of people in the gun community agrees is a good gun. I'd get the version that accepts Glock magazines and stick a 33-round Glock magazine in it. Glock magazines are widely regarded as being the best magazines in the world; and the 33 rounders that they make are widely regarded as being reliable.

The mid-tier option: The CMMG Mk9LE ($900-ish). From the research that I did on AR-15s chambered in 9mm, the ones made by CMMG are highly regarded as being reliable. I recommend using the 32-round Uzi magazines from IWI. Based on your criteria, this would be my top recommendation for you.

The high-tier option: The KRISS Vector GEN II CRB ($1,300-ish). This is the option that I personally went with. I chose it because it's reliable and because it looks amazing.

I also want to go out of my way to rule out a popular option: The CZ Scorpion EVO 3 S1 Carbine. The "pistol" version is wildly popular; but I've personally seen way too many horror stories about all-polymer magazines stretching and breaking their own feed lips after being stored loaded for a long period of time (which is what you'd be doing with a home defense weapon). So, until CZ upgrades their polymer magazines with steel-reinforced feed lips (like Glock does), I'd personally stay away from their products that use those types of magazines.

And I know that you said that you didn't want to add accessories, but a light is a mandatory accessory on a home defense firearm in my opinion (so that you can positively identify your target before you shoot and therefore hopefully avoid accidentally shooting a loved one). The Streamlight ProTac 2 and the INFORCE WMLx would be my top 2 recommended lights for long guns.

As to which bullets that I'd recommend, I already mentioned them: 147-grain 9mm Federal HST (standard pressure). The 124-grain 9mm Federal HST (standard pressure) is also extremely good. I wouldn't hesitate buying and using either of them for home defense. This website will help you find them in stock.

I also highly recommend this accessory in order to make loading your pistol magazines much, much easier.

As to bullet overpenetration, all major rounds will zip right through several of the kinds of walls that you'd find in a typical home. The only "safe" option is birdshot (used in shotguns), but birdshot doesn't penetrate deep enough into the human body (you want 12 to 18 inches of penetration according to FBI tests) to reliably stop a home invader (and therefore birdshot obviously shouldn't be an option for home defense in my opinion). Don't listen to the people that will tell you that the 5.56x45mm NATO round is safer to use because it tends to tumble and fragment when it hits a wall. It will still penetrate through several walls. You just have to be careful about how you angle your shots. That's really your only way to avoid hitting innocent people.

And if you're not as worried as I am about permanently damaging your own hearing while defending your home, then the Smith & Wesson M&P15 SPORT II would be my top rifle recommendation (I recommend pairing it up with 30-round magazines from Lancer); the Mossberg 500 series of shotguns would be my top shotgun recommendation; and the full-size Smith & Wesson M&P9 would be my top pistol recommendation. And I'd pair them up with this electronic hearing protection if I was you.

As to ammo recommendations for the 3 options that I listed above, I recommend Hornady 75-grain BTHP T2 TAP (8126N) or Hornady 5.56 NATO 75-grain BTHP Superformance Match (the .223 version that Hornady makes is also fine); this Managed-Recoil 8-pellet 00 buckshot from Remington (it patterns very tightly); and the 147-grain 9mm Federal HST that I already mentioned above, twice.

And if you go with a pistol, then I recommend the Streamlight TLR-1 as a mandatory accessory.

As to lubricant, you can't really go wrong with Break-Free CLP.

5 knives

Above is a link to 5 folding knives that may or may not fit what you're looking for and 4 are well within your price range of under $120. One is slightly above at 139.00 on Amazon, but the Chrome extension called Honey is currently allowing a $10 discount. All are made by Kershaw/ZT.

1. The ZT 0350 is the top knife with the curvy ergonomics to it. It's probably the most basic ZT folder and is currently the only ZT knife I own. It is good for larger hands, it's very sturdy (and heavy) and technically more than $120 but only barely.
   
   
2. The Kershaw Fatback is next to it and has a more triangular appearance. Relatively newer offering from Kershaw, I think, but is certainly proving to be popular. It's as long when closed as the ZT 0350 but is thicker from one scale to the other on the handle AND is lighter. The actual specs for this and all the knives mentioned can be found by Googling them. This knife is currently under $25.
   
   
3. The Kershaw Skyline is probably the most well known knife, I wouldn't be surprised is this has its own lore here on r/knives. It's popular for a reason being lightweight, and well tested as an older, mainstay model from Kershaw. As you can see, mine is showing wear and scratches compared to the other knives! Amazon is currently listing the basic version of this knife for $46.
   
   
4. The next one is the Kershaw OD-1 which is DISCONTINUED. I didn't know this when I took a photo of it for you and started this list. This means the price is higher than you'd pay normally and isn't really available on Amazon or in stores. You can find it on the link provided (I think) which is to one Stop Knife Shop, you can also try Ebay or Bladeforums to find a used one. The link provided appears to be offering this knife for $53, but I don't know what condition that's in. The one I bought on Amazon back in like 2013 or whatever was ~$30-$35. I actually have two of them, but I'm not sure where the other came from. They are cool knives, fun to play with, but not tacticool.
   
   
5. The last one pictured is the Kershaw Cryo and is currently available on Amazon for ~$19. It is the smallest of the knives shown, smaller than the Fatback with the triangular handle by what looks like 2 inches when open. This would be a great beater knife, something that would be a fine flipper and used briefly but would not be comfortable for extended use, especially in large hands. If memory serves, there's two different Cryo models with 2 different sizes, but I have only the one you see. Could be the smaller of the two models.
   
   NOT PICTURED but I do also have the Kershaw Blur which Amazon is listing at ~$35 currently which is HIGHLY recommended even though it doesn't have a flipper. It's spring assisted opening and a very comfortable grip for larger hands. That price is so good, they're normally $55-$60 that I'm grabbing one of them again as an extra.
   
   I could list like 4-5 more Kershaw knives but my comment is too long already. If you would prefer more variety in recommendation, Spyderco has some solid options but if you want to go BALLS DEEP into tacticool, one of my most valued knives because it was bought for me as a gift was the Cold Steel AK-47. This knife is quite a bit larger than the ZT shown but is nearly the same price at ~$125-130 on Amazon. You might be able to find it cheaper on Ebay. Be careful though, there is the regular and mini version!

Traditional SAR, the teams you will find around the country operate in a whole different world than the military. For the most part you can sort of look to volunteer firefighters as an analogy, even then they tend to be more regimented than SAR. There are some SAR teams out there that have more of a military structure to them, but most of what you will find will feel more like SAR clubs (think chess clubs, hiking clubs, etc). My unit meets once a month, we have a business meeting with the whole review last month's minutes, reports on events since the last meeting, old business, new business, etc. After that we conduct a classroom training session on topics like Lost Person Behavior, Medical Techniques, Navigation, etc. We also conduct regular field trainings to bring it all together. We don't have ranks, we have a list of skillsets and we are each typed according to our ability in each skill. Our unit and all the units I know don't work with weapons, sure we carry knives, but the biggest blade most of us work with is one of these, not some giant thing that rambo would carry, no machetes, no hatchets. If there is a situation where SAR skills are needed for say a fugitive, we stay home. We have done evidence searches for things criminals have tossed into the woods, but they were already in jail.

SAR in the military is their own thing and while we can and do work together on missions they are a unit that stays a unit. When we ask for military assets we indicate what needs to be done and they tell us what they are sending and what it will do. If I show up on a mission with 5 other people from my unit we might be on a team together or I might get put in with members of a different unit.

When it comes to the actual searching it is simply a lot of covering ground. We walk, and we walk, and we walk. 99% of the time we get nothing, there are only so many clues out there. There is one really awesome clue (the person or thing you were out to look for) and tons of acreage to cover. We often start from a last known point and try to move that further along in time. An example we were out looking for a mushroom hunter, when I showed up they new where he started into the woods, we then found a clearly picked mushroom and a couple of boot prints. That advanced the last known point a few hundred feet and gave us a second breadcrumb to work with. It takes a certain type of person to do that effectively. I have seen plenty of people bow out because they had been on maybe a dozen searches over several years and never found a thing. One of our radio operators has been on 8 missions, each ended in a recovery. My hope when I got in was to find a clue at some point, and Oh Boy my first time out I got the find, I found the 24yro woman who had hanged herself. We don't have an obligation to respond to one call or another, but you also don't get to decide who gets lost and when. You also have to get along real well with the others on your team. I've been on all sorts of teams and there are people that I know I don't want to go out with, and certain combinations of people that I won't go out with.

With every one of your responses I feel more and more that SAR wouldn't be a good fit for you now. Most units welcome visitors, I would say that you might consider finding one of the local unit's meetings and checking it out. Attend a few meetings before even considering applying, and talk to the people there and be honest about what you are looking for. Once you get started into it there is a substantial investment in time, energy, gear, and training on the part of you and your team. It isn't worth it to go through a bunch of training and getting geared up to not be a productive member of a team (remember finding nothing is something). I'm not sure what exactly you are looking for, but I don't think SAR is it. There is always a "who knows?" aspect and if you spend some time around a unit you may find that it is a good fit, or that your outlook might change. Our mountain rescue unit has people "hang out" around them for several months before offering them an application, in their world they have to trust their lives to their team. While the regular old SAR doesn't require the same standard it is very easy for someone (as good at it as they may be) to be more of a distraction than a help.

TL;DR
I don't think SAR is going to get you what you want. If you do feel like continuing down this path talk to the people in the unit(s) in your area, be honest, and don't take it personally if they tell you "no".

Hi! Happy to respond!

Well the high cost is a bummer - I'm not sure about water purity in NZ but what is the cost of tablets? Usually they last forever and you only need one for a liter or so of water.

First-aid kit - you don't really need to buy a premade kit. You're going to want some first aid items in case of emergency: bandaids (do you guys call them plasters?), antibiotic ointment, anti-itch cream or bug sting relief capsules (if needed, I don't know NZ insects), some painkillers (aspirin, Tylenol, whatever), some benadryl (anti-allergy relief) at the least are things you should include in your kit. Those are the minimum items you should bring and you probably own most of them already. You don't need to bring a whole box or bottle of each, just a handful will be fine. If you were to add anything else to that I would bring some gauze tape for larger cuts or wrapping joints as well as some moleskin to help with any blisters you might get. Put all those items into a plastic zip-loc bag (waterproof!) and that's your budget first aid kit with everything you'll possibly need. And you should already know how to use all those items.

Rope - I'm a big believer in the many uses of rope. You can hang your food to keep animals from getting it. You can tie your tent or tarp down in bad weather. You can cut some off and tie your camp shoes (see camp shoes below) to your backpack if necessary. You don't need a lot of rope but for the cost and weight it's can be nice to have. I honestly use the cheap rope people buy to use on clotheslines. But this isn't necessarily a must-have, especially if you don't need to tie anything down. This reminds me that it's good practice to bring some duct tape (not a whole roll) in case you get a rip in your tent or something.

Torch - I personally like a headlamp best. The one I have is lightweight and cost about $25, it is bright and it has a flashing option. I like the headlamp because it keeps my hands free to do other things. I don't usually hike at night but it is easier for me to pee if I have both hands and don't have to hold a torch. But really any torch will do - the key is finding one that is bright (casts a wide beam so you can see around you), durable (in case you drop it), long-lasting (doesn't eat through batteries quickly), and lightweight (priority in that order). You'll mostly want it around camp at night - cooking, getting up to pee, pointing it in the direction of a scary sound. It doesn't need to be expensive or very nice.

Multi-tool - Your mileage may vary on multitools. A lot of hikers are rabid about them but I just carry a small knife. I carried a multitool a few times but the only feature I used on it was the knife. If I'm in the woods I have no need for a screwdriver or a pair of pliers or a can opener - that's just extra weight. Is there any feature of a multi-tool you think that you'll be using besides the knife? Think about that before committing to a possibly expensive and heavy multitool. You might be better off with just a small knife. Check your local laws regarding knife sizes though.

Camp shoes - I didn't remember it before but in case you hadn't thought of these, grab some lightweight shoes you can wear around camp at night. Your feet will be happy to be aired out of the boots for awhile and it'll be easier to put on in the middle of the night if you have to go pee. A pair of cheap rubber thongs is probably fine. Bonus if your camp shoes are waterproof - if you have to do stream crossings it's nice to change into them instead of getting your boots drenched :)

Firstly, some unsolicited advice. If there's a low chance of the knife getting confiscated for whatever reason, I'd say save up a little more scratch and get something a little nicer. Alright, now that I've said that, I'm going to assume that you're going to completely ignore it. (Which is fine.)

Ontario RAT 2 always comes highly recommended. You pretty much can't go wrong here. It is a liner lock, which will be a little easier to use one-handed than a lockback. Though maybe only if you're right handed.

I think if I were going for a Spyderco in that range, I'd go with the Ambitious instead. (Right under $30, blade is 2.25 inches.) Or, save up a few extra bucks and go with the Persistence (Just under $35, blade is 2.75 in). The Byrd line is designed by Spyderco, but made by other companies under Spyderco's direction. I'm sure they are a decent value, but if that's what you want, I think you'd probably be better off, and happier, saving your money and getting a Delica 4.

You may also want to look into the Buck Vantage. It's a flipper, so easy opening is there. I think it's a liner lock as well. The steel is okay, but expect to be sharpening it fairly often (maybe once a week if you want to keep it razor sharp).

Another option is the Ka-Bar Dozier. It uses AUS-8A steel, which is pretty good for the price range (in my opinion). Thumb stud, lockback. This one's $20, so a little below your budget actually. Could use some of the money saved to get some sort of sharpening system (DMT Card maybe?)

Blue Ridge Zancudo, designed by the same people behind the RAT series. Pretty much the same idea, but I think the blade shape on the Zancudo is a little better if you need to be able to pierce things.

Last one, the Kershaw Shuffle. A little smaller, at 2.4 in blade length. But has a bottle opener, if you're into that sort of thing. Also, cheaper than any of the rest of the options here. I also think that this one probably has the best blade-shape, in my opinion. It's almost all belly.

Personally, I have found that having the longest knife you have is good, but a lot of the time most of that edge isn't put to good use. Sometimes it's too long, which makes it cumbersome. If you're mostly opening boxes and mail and stuff like that, something closer to a 2.5 inch blade might be more the ticket. I find that it makes it easier to make precise cuts.

For the record, I feel the same that the Cryo is too slippery - which is why I'm super glad Kershaw released a G10 version of it last year.

I also agree that the Tenacious is just a bit too big for EDC - and they do make the Persistence, which is a shrunken version of the Tenacious, with a 2.75 inch blade vs the Tenacious' 3-3/8 inch blade. If you wanna go even smaller, the Ambitious has a 2.25" blade. All 3 knives share a similar design (though the Ambitious is small enough that the proportions might look a little weird to some).

A few other knives of note that are standouts in the sub-$50 price range:

• CRKT Ripple - Ken Onion design with a more-traditional drop point blade, IKBS, 8Cr14MoV. Usually on most people's "Under $50" list.
  
  
• Kershaw Leek - Again, a little slippery and still Speedsafe but a slightly weaker torsion bar so not as forceful. Some people have issues with broken tips since they're a little thin, but this thing was the best under $50 when it came out.
  
  
• Ontario RAT 1 - At $25 this thing is a pretty great package, if not a little big. 3.5" blade, but it's AUS-8 if you don't like the 8Cr China steels (even if they are pretty similar).
  
  
• SOG Flash II - again, a 3.5 inch, AUS-8 blade. Assisted opening, but much less forceful than Speedsafe.
  
  
• The Kershaw Emerson CQC-6K has blown up since it's release and a lot of high speed low drag tactical types love it for EDC use. $25 makes it a pretty appealing choice and rock solid under $30.
  
  
• The Spyderco Delica 4 is just a touch over $50, averaging about $60, but it's also a go-to knife in the $50 for many people. VG-10 steel on this one is a big selling point.
  
  
• On the same hand, the Kershaw Blur is usually available for about $60, and for those looking for a big folder (seriously this thing is large) it's a great choice. Sandvik 14C28N as standard steel, also available with S30V for about $75.
  
  A few notes here
  
  
• You'll see a lot of sub $50 knives using 8Cr13MoV or 8Cr14MoV. The main difference is a little more Chromium in the 8Cr14MoV, leading to a little more corrosion resistance. A lot of people loved the Skyline, but there were a few issues with minor rust spots on the knives, leading to many companies switching to 8Cr14MoV for some of their knives (most of the budget Kershaws are 8Cr14MoV now).
  
  
• Kershaw has many many options for budget folders under $50, for all kinds of aesthetic tastes. The Chill, Thermite, Link, Oso Sweet, etc. I've owned a handful of Kershaws, and loved all of them, especially for the price.
  
  
• The 8Cr steels (13MoV and 14MoV) are pretty much on par with AUS-8, especially from CRKT, Spyderco, and Kershaw who all do a good job on their heat treats. There's a slight difference in hardness (3 to 4 HRC difference by most counts), but really they're nearly identical for all intents and purposes, mainly sharpening and edge retention. Some people just prefer AUS-8 because they don't like so called "China steel."
  
  
  ETA a few more links and some clarification of my still-awake-at-5am rambling.

I'd actually start a little lower if I were you, then work your way up. I started with a Spyderco PM2 ($125ish) and then actually went down to some more budget friendly knives. You can get some TREMENDOUS value out of a few budget blades available right now. Here's a few that I HIGHLY recommend.

Top Pick: Sanrenmu Land 910+ or 9103. I'd choose the 910+ because it's got nice grippy scales and is easier to open/close than the 9103.

Compact, Lightweight, and Classy: Kershaw Atmos. Fantastic action, well known designer, nice and compact.

Workhorse: Spyderco Tenacious. This thing is built to cut. Nice and thin blade stock with a full flat grind, cuts like nothing else. Carries really well too.

Those are three of the best started blades on the market IMO. There's a lot more value in these than in some of the other commonly recommended blades like the Ontario Rats. If you do want to spend your full $100 budget, I'd just pick up all three of these. That way you can figure out exactly what you like before committing to one expensive knife purchase. Plus, once you do, you can hold onto the budget blades for backup knives or sell them over on r/knife_swap.

I hope you find the right knife for you. Good luck!

first and foremost, find a hunter safety class and take it. there is an online option now but I really recommend going to an in-person class. I did this when I was 11 or 12 and remember some very experienced old timey hunters explaining everything. we even got hands-on experience with some old 22's and got to shoot them at a range.

they will cover most of your questions, and will go over gun safety and how to hunt safely (identifying your target, whats behind your target, etc). They should also cover the basics of field dressing (removing the organs out in the field).

If you want to hunt deer you're going to want a rifle of at very minimum .243 caliber (preferably higher, i hunt with .30-06). Hunting rifles as of this moment cannot be semi-automatic although there is a real possibility this will be changed by next hunting season. (Even so the most common AR-15 which is .223 caliber is too small for hunting deer.) A .270 is a common whitetail caliber, big enough to take down a deer but not going to kick as hard as .30-06 or .308.

When you buy your hunting license, it comes with one tag to harvest an antlered deer. The rules of what makes a deer count as "antlered" vary from region to region but for most of PA it requires at least 3 points on one side. The paperwork you receive will also have a form you must mail in to your county treasurer to apply for a doe tag. The doe permits are limited and the earlier you apply the better your chances are. A doe tag is only good for the zone you applied in.

If you want to hunt rabbits and birds such as pheasants or turkey you'll want a shotgun. Most people would hunt with a 12 gauge but if you've got a smaller frame you might want a smaller gun (16 or 20 gauge). Turkey requires a tag similar to a buck, which are included in your regular hunting license.

Ducks require a special stamp you can buy when you purchase your license, and there are rules about the metal in the shot shells when you hunt waterfowl (it can't contain lead).

if you're interested in squirrel hunting you can use a shotgun, but the more challenging way to do it is with a 22 rifle. This is a very small and inexpensive bullet.

If you've never handled a gun you're going to be nervous carrying it around with a shell in the chamber. The best thing you can do is take it a range (such as these) and go through a few boxes of shells practicing. A State Game Lands range is free to use as long as you have a hunting license. The one by me usually has a game commission officer there who would be happy to answer questions. Just practice, learn where your safety is, be aware of where the muzzle is pointed, and keep your finger out of the trigger guard. Also protect your hearing! You will need hearing and eye protection at the range!

you need to wear orange on your head and chest/back for most seasons in PA, the exception being some archery/muzzleloader and turkey hunting. Just get a hat and vest and you'll be fine.

Other gear: knife (I prefer a small fixed blade knife to a folder for cleaning deer; less places to get hair and gunk stuck), lighter, maps, emergency whistle, emergency blanket, drag rope (to get the deer out of the woods), rubber gloves (so you aren't a mess after cleaning a deer), and I bring a spare phone battery.

Like any other adventure in the wild make sure people know where you're going and when you should be home.

If you can time it right and catch the 795 on sale, you can save a decent bit of money. I hadn't seen them on sale, so I bought my fiancee a 795 and spent about $175 on it. I recently got the tech sights for both her rifle and mine. For an appleseed event, you'll want two ten round magazines. Since they are hard to find in a brick and mortar location and I was going to be paying shipping anyway, I ordered two 10 rounders in addition to the one the rifle came with.

Costs as follows:
Rifle: $175
Tech Sights $ 69
2x Mags $ 28
GI Sling $ 10
Swivels $ 12

Total $294

That total does not include shipping charges, nor does it include any further equipment costs such as:

• Eye protection (I splurged and got my lady the Smith Ageis Arc because I like her eyes and it looks like they rated very well for the price in The Lucky Gunner Eye Pro Breakdown. Fortunately, I have some older glasses that offer sufficient protection but I will be buying myself some newer eye protection before we do our appleseed event at the end of the month.),
  
• Ear protection (you'll want to double up and get plugs of some sort and muffs, especially if you're shooting at an indoor range at times. I got us the Howard Leight Impact Sport electronic muffs which are pretty highly recommended) or,
  
• Ammo (if you can find 22lr at a reasonable price)
  
  You can go less expensive on the ear an eye protection. The first few times I took my lady shooting, we had good ear plugs and less expensive eye protection (at an outdoor range) and I saved up for a while to get the better stuff.
  
  I feel like it was worth it to get the extra stuff and rifle so that we can attend the appleseed event together. Much of the value in it, I think, comes from all the range time you get. If One of us were to go without the other then try to teach the other, it would probably take significantly longer to teach the second person unless you later dedicated an entire weekend to shooting. I think it's better to knock it out in on weekend, rather than spread out over weeks or months. You two can develop together as shooters.
  
  As I've been educating my fiancee and guiding her into being comfortable with guns, this is something I've given a good bit of thought to, and something I had and have been saving for for a few months. Buying shooting gear can be a large-ish initial outlay, but the headphones, eye protection, and firearms acquired are something that will serve us well for many years to come, so that is something to bear in mind as you weight the options, buy initial gear, and possibly later acquire replacement gear of higher quality.
  
  

As you may or may not have recognized, this is the Condor Bushlore. Its blade is .125” thick made from 1075 carbon steel. The handle scales are walnut and the pins are brass (I think). The sheath is leather with stainless pins. These pictures are what it looks like after a weekend of extremely hard use in very damp conditions—I’ll talk more about this later. I took the pictures right after I cleaned it back up, and re-sharpened it.

I have been collecting knives for a while, and have quite a few, but did not own EVEN ONE fixed blade. I had a camping trip in the Finger Lakes region of NY, so I decided to pony up a whopping $31 and order one off amazon. When it arrived, the overwhelmingly positive reviews for the sheath were confirmed (it feels very high quality) as were the so-so reviews for the fit and finish of the knife itself. If you are looking for a fixed blade knife that is great to look at and fun to fondle, this might not be the knife for you. There is noticeable staining on the uneven handle scales, the pins and lanyard holes have grind marks on them (but are smooth to the touch), the grind is not a true Scandi (the blade had a secondary bevel when I received it, but it’s not a big deal, because I re-profiled it anyway), and the primary grind is actually uneven (this was brought out when I re-profiled it, one of the pictures shows this), and it came incredibly dull (hence the re-profiling).

So, how did it perform in the field? Very well! On two consecutive nights, in very damp conditions, it batoned through logs almost as thick as the blade is long, split about 9 bundles worth of wood (no-one had a hatchet) and performed other, less strenuous tasks like making wood shavings for kindling, carving tent stakes, and opening food packages etc. It was very comfortable to use, and held a good working edge for all of this. Now because it is carbon steel it did develop some significant surface rust, but that cleaned up very easily in just a few minutes.

In closing, this is a great camp knife for an incredible value. If you can get past the cosmetic imperfections, it’s an awesome little knife.

Let me know if you guys have any questions!

If he had been carrying a Swiss Army knife that's probably the style he prefers, Opinel makes single bladed knives that open in the same way his old SAK did, and leatherman makes amazing multitools, I would recommend checking all these brands out.

Opinel knives are usually extremely cheap and run about 20$/£, their most popular knife is the No. 8 for about 12$/£, it comes in other colors and wood types as well. No. 8 is a bigger model and it might be a little bulky for someone use to a SAK, the small the number in the name ex. No. 7, No.6, get smaller as their number designation does. I have the No. 8 Trekking knife in slate and its a pretty great knife for its price (18$/£).

If he likes Swill Army Knives, there are quite a few more options to look at, they can get a little pricey for their size at times, I own the Tinker, this was my first knife and I have found that looking at the tools on these knives would behoove you. I do not need an awl in the knife I carry every day for instance. There are many many options to chose from, and through a little sifting you may find one that you feel suits him best. Victorinox (the brand that makes swiss army knives) also makes knives that are a little closer to the opinels I mentioned earlier, a few of their models (like this one) are simply one or two blades. I would look into local laws however, I know some places do not allow blades that can be opened with one hand like the one I linked you to.

Leatherman makes wonderful multitools and a few pocket knives. Nearly everything they make have blades that lock as a safety feature, although very few can be flicked open, so I would check the specifics of this law, I doubt a multi-tool is illegal. This is the Micra, it appears to be a smaller version of a leatherman I own that I cannot find on their site. This one has a blade that opens in a way that is legal for sure, its blade does not lock either. If you find that some locking blades are allowed, the Skeletool is a favorite of mine, it may look a little outlandish but it has always had the best combination of essential tools out of any of my multi-tools, and it is one of my favorites. The Style is a smaller version with slightly different tools ( I don't think it has screwdrivers), but it's blade does not lock. The skeletool is about 70$/£ I think, and their smaller tools like the micra and style are under 30$/£, this brand has quite a bit more I didn't touch on, if you think he would like something like this I would check out site, I hope you find something that works, I know I'm always thrilled when my girlfriend gets me a new knife.

Lol, alright for example:

• Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.
  
  
• Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.
  
  
• Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.
  
  
• Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.
  
  
• Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.
  
  
• Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.
  
  
• Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.
  
  
• Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.
  
  There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...

OK, i looked into your sharpener a little more and it is not as bad as i thought. the way yours works is it has a spinning diamond coated wheel and the plastic housing guides the knife at the correct angle against the diamond wheel. This style of sharpener won't destroy your edge like a carbide sharpener will. However diamond is very aggressive as an abrasive material. This means that you are probably taking off way too much material from the edge of your knife than you need to. This means you are shortening the life of your knives. This sharpener also only has two stages of sharpening which means you are not getting much of a polish on your knife edges. The higher the polish the more of a slice you are getting as opposed to a rip. This is both good and bad. cutting some materials requires a more 'toothy' edge to the knife but if you are slicing meat you don't want a toothy edge.

In short what you have is adequate for the average kitchen. if you want better results you will need to upgrade to a better sharpener.

The work sharp is basically a miniature belt sander. by having replaceable belts you have a sharpener that basically has an unlimited life, those diamond wheels will eventually wear down. by having replaceable belts you are able to change the abrasiveness of the belt. when sharpening a knife you want to move to progressively finer grits. this grit progression will ensure that you are not spending longer than you need to on finer grits and it will get you a highly polished blade edge. the work sharp belts are flexible which means you will also get what is called a convex edge. so instead of being a perfect V the V will be bowed out slightly. this provides a much stronger edge due to the shape. the wheels in the chef's choice will grind to a concave edge or what is known as a hollow grind. a hollow grind provides a much thinner edge. thinner edges tend to be sharper but they also tend to chip and not hold their edge as well as a convex edge.

amazon has the lansky sharpening system for $36 http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406820039&sr=8-1&keywords=lansky+sharpeners

the lansky system will provide you with similar results to the work sharp in terms of edge polish and sharpness but it will give you the standard V edge. these clamp style sharpeners are very popular because they work really well. with a clamp style sharpener you will spend much more time on a single knife than with the work sharp.

>Do I need to get ear protection for a .22? If so, any suggestions?

Yes! .22 still produces noise loud enough to damage hearing, especially long term use. [These] ( http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-R-01526-Electronic-Earmuff/dp/B001T7QJ9O) are a great value for the money.

>What eye protection is the best? (What do y'all use/what's your favorite pair of goggles)?

Nothing fancy, as long as it's rated for shooting.

>How long should I wait before getting a scope?

Until you have a need for one. If you get into longer range shooting and you can't see the targets naturally.

>Should I store it vertically? (Corner of a closet)?This is my first gun, so I don't have a safe, would under my bed work? (I did get a case for it)

Vertically is fine, though you should find a way to lock it up. If you can't afford a safe right now look for a cabinet you can lock and bolt to the wall. It won't stop a determined thief, but it'll deter curious house guests, children, and smash and grabs.

>Can I plink in my backyard? (Harris county, Texas)(I'm pretty sure this one is a no, thought I'd ask anyway)

I don't know your local laws, but unless you have several acres and a solid backstop it's not safe regardless of whether it's forbidden or not.

>I'm a first generation gun owner in my family, I'd like to be responsible with firearms, if I missed anything important, please say, I'd love to hear suggestions on how I can be responsible with guns.

Look in to Appleseed shoots. They're an excellent way to improve your marksmanship.

>I don't know if it matters but I got 1 box of CCI .22lr and the Ruger BX-25 with it.

Your 10/22 will love CCIs. Other brands work, too, but CCI is usually consistent.

>Hmmm, under 10?

> This Essie top coat that makes all glossy polishes matte.

Sweet Jesus where have I been to not know of these things...

> This Too Faced "stuff" that makes eyeshadow a more permanent eyeliner.

Awesome suggestion. Never knew this existed. Perfect as it's impossible to find a good white eyeliner in my area. Plenty of white shadows in my collection plus this item will help greatly XD

> This pepper spray!

I love it. And it's my favorite color. PINK XD

> This beautiful hanging lantern.

>:)

Had to add that simply because of the prettiness awesome factor.

So for reference, I have a Nikon Buckmaster 4.5-14x40 and it's been a fine scope. I've also used someone else's Nikon P-223 scope and it was good too, so you probably wouldn't go far wrong with either of the ones you linked. But, adjustable parallax is something I probably wouldn't get a scope without anymore, especially for .22 where the range can vary from across the room distance to 100+ yards. The key words to look for in the scope specs are "adjustable parallax", "adjustable objective" (AO, when the parallax adjustment is done by twisting a ring around the objective lens at the front), or "side-focus" (when the parallax adjustment is on a turret on the side of the scope).

If you want to stick with Nikon, it looks like they're making an inexpensive adjustable parallax scope now. The tech specs on that site say it adjusts down to 50 yards, but the mark on the adjustment ring in the picture says 10, and Amazon also says 10 yards minimum, which is good for .22.

On the lower end of the budget, I also have a number of inexpensive Leapers/UTG/Centerpoint scopes (3-9x40, 3-9x35, 1.5-4x32, and a couple others) and have actually been really impressed with them for the money. Their main market seems to be air rifles, which many people take less seriously, but air rifle scopes have to be very rugged, and typically can adjust their parallax to much closer than scopes meant for rifles. And the prices are pretty damn good for the features. This UTG 3-9x32 has almost 2000 reviews and still 4.5 stars on Amazon, is very compact, comes with a sunshade, caps, and QD scope rings (I just got a set of UTG QD rings for another scope and they seem OK so far, .22 isn't very demanding), adjusts down to 3 yards, and is under $80. Amazing what they're doing in China these days. There are a number of similar models from other brands with various features and zoom ranges, probably all made in the same factory in China. I'm not sure if any of them are notably better quality than any others, I mostly stick with UTG for my cheap scopes because I have experience with them now.

One I saw just now is this Bushnell 2-7x32, and looks like it might be a good alternative.

On the higher end of the budget scale, Vortex has a 4-12x50 and a 4-12x40 that are adjustable. That's also more magnification though.

The Smith & Wesson M&P9 is the best overall pistol currently available in my opinion. It had zero gun-caused malfunctions in a 2010 ATF test. And yet it's still very reasonably priced at around $450. This website will help you shop for them online (if you order it online, you'll need to find a local FFL dealer for them to deliver it to and pay a transfer fee). Any Federal HST cartridge should perform well in it. Since that ammo is hard to find, this website will help you find it in stock online (and yes, ordering ammo over the internet and getting it shipped directly to your home is perfectly legal). Here's my favorite inside the waistband holster. And here's my favorite outside the waistband holster. I recommend buying this hearing protection and this hearing protection (yes, you should wear both at the same time. And yes, you'll still be able to hear everything perfectly fine if you put the volume on maximum). Here's the safety glasses that I recommend. And here's the lubrication that I recommend.

Open carry is legal in Virginia. You don't need a permit. You do need a permit to carry concealed.

Yeah, in that case, one good chef's knife is the way to go.

At the sub $100 price range, here are my standard recommendations:

• Victorinox Chef's Knife. This is a western style chef's knife, probably what you would imagine in your head if you said chef's knife. The blade geometry is great. Its a very easy knife to care for - its 100% synthetic handle doesn't mind getting soaked and the steel is very stain resistant. The steel is pretty soft, so its easy to sharpen to a serviceable edge. The down side - its steel is pretty soft, so you will need to sharpen it more often to get good performance out of it.
  
  
• Tojiro White #2 series These are Japanese style knives (and made in Japan). They are entry level for hand forged knives. The fit and finish isn't the best (not terrible) but this is to kitchen knives what a Remington 870 is to shotguns or a 10 year old F150 is to trucks. Look at the Santoku or Gyuto style blades. Upside - I believe its hand forged, so warm fuzzies on that if it applies to you. Hard steel takes a better edge than the victorinox, and will need sharpened less often. Downside - You need to commit to caring for this knife. Its not difficult to do, but neither the handle nor the blade like water. The handle is wood, it will warp, swell, and rot if you leave it soaking wet. The blade is not stainless steel. This means you must wash and dry it right after use, or else it will rust. But its pretty easy to do. Once you are done with your cutting, walk to the sink, give it a quick rub with a soapy rag, dry it on a towel and you are done.
  
  Then, spend the rest of your budget on sharpening stones. No matter what knife you get, you need to sharpen it to keep it functional. This is a reasonable system if you don't feel like you want to learn how to free-hand sharpen. This is a reasonable stone to get if you do Youtube will be more than happy to show you how to use either one.

I recently got my NC CCW and a Glock 19 with a vedder light tuck. I’ve been to the range to practice a few times but the ear pro they have for rent tends to be a hit or miss. As a result i’m looking to buy my own EarPro but and caught between the decision between Pro For Sho’s passive ear protection and Howard Leight’s Impact Sports electronic ear protection. If this would be better for /r/guns let me know.

Here’s a quick of comparison of each:

Pro For Sho
Price: $18
NRR: 34dB
Weight: less than half a pound

Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Sho-34dB-Shooting-Protection/dp/B01FPWTJBI


Howard Leight Impact Sport
Price: $35
NRR: 22
Weight: slightly under a pound

Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Amplification-Electronic-R-01526/dp/B001T7QJ9O


The Pro For Sho is lighter, about half the cost, and has a way higher NRR. I usually double up with foam ear plugs which would help make up for the Howard Leight’s lower NRR. The NRR difference isn’t the biggest concern, however, my existing opinion is that more is better. Indoor gun ranges can get loud. That being said if for whatever reason I forgot or ran out of foam earplugs I’d feel comfortable with the Pro For Shos but not the Howard Leights.

The biggest differentiator then would be the price and the electronic element of the Howards. Is the benefit offered by the electronic component really worth twice as much money and significantly less NRR? At a range the only time I’d really need to hear is when taking instruction in a class or talking with friends but if I’m by myself doing my own practice which is most of the time I feel like I wouldn’t need it. Yelling also works to account for higher NRR.

Another argument I’ve thought of is situational awareness being hindered by the passives; but the ranges in my area are all indoor with one or more rangemasters.

My biggest question to the community here is how worth it is the electronic hearing aid of the Howard Leights? I know that to some of you the price difference might be negligible but for me it matters.

On an unrelated note I stumbled across these: https://www.range365.com/sightline-replacement-pads-for-howard-leight-impact-sport-earmuffs

They look like a solid upgrade to the Howard pads. If I went with Howards I might get these later down the road when I have a bit more money to spend.


Thanks for taking the time to read through my long post!

If you're sharpening a fine, expensive blade, I can't stress enough that you should do it yourself. I used to send my knives out for sharpening with a handful of services, some of which were expensive and had excellent reputations. Sometimes they would come back great, sometimes they would come back absolutely BUTCHERED. One time it looked like they had sharpened it on the machine they used for lawn mower blades.

Anyway, there's no substitute for a good, multi-stone sharpening system. If you've got a lot of commodity blades to go through (like if you run a restaurant kitchen), by all means use a service or use a motorized sharpener like the Work Sharp (I own one and use it regularly).

But if you want the finest edge you can get and you want to really take care of a nice, expensive chef's knife; sharpening in a way that won't mar the appearance or take off too much metal each time (like the Work Sharp is known to do), a multi-stone kit is the way to go.

I've always used the Lanksy kits and absolutely love them. Here's an excellent general-purpose kit: http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4

And don't worry, it's super easy to get the hang of. The guide included will take care of the angle for you, which is the hardest part. And there are short videos out there that detail the process, if you need them.

What do you use the Skeletool most for?

If you use the knife on it constantly and daily, then yeah, get a good knife. If the stuff that you do cut makes you nervous with the Skeletool then definitely get a dedicated knife.

If you use the bit driver or pliers on the Skeletool the most then you probably don't need to carry a dedicated knife.

Give the Sage 5 a good look as well if you are considering the Para3. I'd also strongly recommend finding a Spyderco/Benchmade/Zero Tolerance dealer and fondling a bunch of knives before making a decision on which knife to buy.

If you have never carried a dedicated knife before it would be a good idea to buy a cheaper knife or two before spending $100+ on a knife.

Could try something like the Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara 2:
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Cara2-Lightweight-black-PlainEdge/dp/B0049AYJP4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1499523866&sr=1-1&keywords=Byrd+Cara+Cara2

The Ontario Rat I/II
https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knife-Sp-Black-Folding-7Inches/dp/B00BBPAOCW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523684&sr=8-2&keywords=ontario+rat+2

https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523956&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ontario+rat+1&psc=1

Kershaw Cryo
https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1555TI-SpeedSafe-Folding-Knife/dp/B0074FI28Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523664&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+cryo

CRKT Squid
https://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Knife-Tool-Folding/dp/B00TFY39EQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499524020&sr=1-1&keywords=crkt+squid

Try some under $30 knives, pick one that looks like something you would like to carry, and pick something that is dang near the polar opposite. It will let you know what you like in a knife much cheaper. Differences in blade size, blade shape, handle shape and how they are used might change your opinion on what you think you need in a knife after using a dedicated knife for awhile. After that you can make a truly informed decision on a high-end knife.

When cleaning a knife, don't use abrasives that will scratch the surface. Use water and soap and a towel, dry it completely with a dry towel, than use a good lubricant (WD40 is not recommended) to completely lubricate all of the moving parts of the knife. Be careful not to use too much lubricant or gunk will build up. Put some lubricant or oil on the blade to protect it from rust.
Next, you will need to know how to sharpen. Most of the people around here use either the Lansky Sharpening System, the Spyderco Sharpmaker, or freehand sharpening stones.
I use a set of free hand sharpening stones and a leather strop with a polishing compound to polish the edge. This is the edge of a knife I just sharpened today http://i.imgur.com/rU9xiiB.jpg
As you can see, the edge is a mirror and is razor sharp. I taught myself how to sharpen and it is kind of hard to explain it in words because each of those systems for sharpening above use different methods of sharpening. Because you seem to be a beginner, I would recommend buying the Lansky System http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000B8IEA4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421722347&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51w1Ufl-%2BUL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40 because it is less likely to mess up your edge than if you use free hand stones. Also, if you buy the Lansky, buy the stand for it as well.
After sharpening, oil the edge once again to protect it from rusting.
Remember to always keep as much moisture and liquid off the knife to prevent corrosion and always clean it with soap and water if it gets dirty.
Also, if you are interested in a leatherman, I recommend the Charge http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0031Q8N40/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421722507&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41K-6jvKBjL&ref=plSrch because even though it is pricey it is known as one of their best models.
I hope this all helps you!
EDIT: I also forgot to tell you not to use a knife outside of its intended purpose. It sounds like you tried prying with your previous knife, which ended up bending its tip. Never pry with a knife, next time it may break. Don't cut metal wire with a blade, use wire cutters. Don't use the edge a a screwdriver, that cause damage too. Remember to always use the correct tool for the job, which is beneficial for you because the leatherman will have many small tools.

Electronic hearing protection will not only amplify your surroundings so that you can hear your game better but it'll prevent hearing damage.

Howard Leights are great, you can get gel cups for them for more comfort and better sealing. The HL's often dip below $40, but even at $50 they're a great buy.

I personally use MSA Sordin Supreme Pro X's and 3M ComtacIII's depending on the occasion. They're both pretty great. The MSA's amplify a little more than the ComtacIII's, but they cut off all volume during gunfire. The ComtacIII's don't amplify as much, but have slightly better directional awareness and are perfect for communicating during gunfire since they reduce the volume instead of completely shutting it off.

You have a lot of good choices available within the $50 range. My personal two top choices for a small, inexpensive but well built folder would be the Ontario RAT 2 and the Cold Steel Tuff Lite. Both are under $30, easy to carry, and very capable. If you want more of that traditional look, go with the best Case model you can afford. Great Eastern Cutlery is really nice too for traditionals, but a bit more pricey. Another option might be an Opinel, classy and inexpensive.

Okay here are some suggestions

1. Wallet. I have not ordered it yet but [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P4Y9EW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A28SBX2GB3VZCT) cigarette case could work.
   
2. Knife: [Spyderco tenacious] (http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Tenacious-Handle-Folding-Plain/dp/B001EI7578/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1370136756&sr=1-1&keywords=spyderco) is $32 and a little more than 3 inches or the [Spyderco ambitious] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MMSDHO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) which is a baby tenacious with a 2 1/4 inch blade and $29.
   While they are not tactical opinels are really nice and are near $10 and come in lots of sizes.
   
   
3. Pens: I have a [zerbra 701] (http://www.amazon.com/Zebra-F-701-Stainless-Ballpoint-Retractable/dp/B002L6RB80) and a [Fisher space bullet pen] (http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Space-Pen-Bullet-400/dp/B000095K9D/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1370136956&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=fisher+space+ben). For the money the zebra is excellent, the bullet pen is nice but there is a tutorial on how to mode the zebra to take space pen refills which is the best of both.
   
4. I know you got the wave but I suggest getting a small mt like a sak or a leatherman ps4 or micra. The victorinox classic sd is good and about $10
   
   Also with all the stuff you want to carry, It might be wise to invest in a maxpediton micro pocket organizer which is about $15
   If you got any questions just ask.

If you really want a monster sized knife, sure. But I'd definitely get the carbon steel version that some others have suggested as well. It sounds like their quality isn't too bad.

However, I don't know if I'd really want to take something that huge hiking. Maybe SHTF-type hiking I suppose.

A couple of knives that I'd think would be similar priced or less (and have proven reputations) and would slightly more practically fall into the "only 1" category:

• Ka Bar Becker BK2
  
• Ka Bar Becker BK16
  
• Condor Bushlore - there are other Condor models that are great values as well, but might need a little touchup love.
  
• Morakniv - there is even one with a firesteel built into the handle
  
• ESEE 4 (this might be a tad more expensive)
  
• Ka Bar Becker BK7 or BK9 if you really want a huge knife, but I would definitely consider something smaller to piggyback on the sheath.
  
  Good luck regardless!

I just installed the GunVault SV500 on the desk in my bedroom. Ideally I'd have something more secure but as an apartment dweller/renter this setup works for my impermanent living situation. It was pretty easy to install and program and since it screws into the side of the desk I felt like it was more secure than some other pistol safe locked with a cable to the bed. It fits my glock 19 perfectly, though the foam inside would allow for many different handgun sizes. I do wish there was a space for an extra magazine but overall I am very satisfied with my limited experience.

Bit late but I didn't see this full face 3m linked. I've had this for quite a while now with varying beard lengths, down to the middle of my chest, half way down my neck, and just short. It does suck a lot with a full beard (and it leaves a pretty hilarious outline imprint). It probably also doesn't 100% work because the hair leaves more air gaps than the rubber/skin contact would.

However, I'm often also extremely lazy about getting eye pro, ear pro, lung pro on every time. So being able to toss this thing on with these is really handy. I thankfully haven't had anything kick back into my face but it is generally nice to have all a lot of the dust and crap also filtered out pretty well from your eyes too (it isn't perfect but it's better than glasses or nothing).

The cartridges are also really easy to replace. They're also really confusing as to what filters you actually need to be using. Some are rated for dust, dust + fumes, dust + fumes + ebola, dust + fumes + ebola + nuclear fallout. I've also been admittedly a bit lazy about the filters as well. I'll typically replace them when I notice the flow is starting to get really bad, which also seems to fog up the mask a bit.

My only real gripe with it is that static / aerosol over spray (whatever, basically anything) can cause crap to cling to the mask. So I'll go to start working on something only to discover I need to go track down some windex and a clean rag. Not a huge deal. I just grabbed a rag and tossed it in a ziplock and put it on a shelf next to a small bottle of glass cleaner stuff.

And for the ear pro stuff, those are seriously amazing. I use them for shooting and have always loved them. One day I thought "huh, I wonder what a table saw sounds like while wearing these". Turns out pretty not bad. I normally end up just turning them on super low with earbuds in and they're comfy.

I've had a lot of luck with the Lansky Sharpening system. I also recommend the little spindly mount if you don't have a vice. It isn't really necessary, but I find it makes sharpening a lot easier.

There are a lot of videos out there, but this is the one that helped me the most. I know it's not recommended to sharpen a knife by moving the stone backwards (from tip to handle) but I've tried to replicate his methods and had fantastic results.

That said, it takes some practice to develop a feel for how much pressure to apply and what motions to use. It took me about a month of not-really-sharpened knives to realize that I wasn't using anywhere near enough force with the coarser stones to form a burr. This guy outlines how to feel a burr pretty well (the whole video is a bit long, but definitely helps with some little tricks.) I also run my nail along the length of the blade to feel for a fully-formed burr.

Other than that, just keep practicing and trying new techniques, and find what is most comfortable and efficient for you.

okay, so... as far as cheap sharpening goes, stay away from pull thru sharpeners they give a mediocre edge and take years off the steel.
a cheap-ish way is to get a stone but learning to free hand sharpen is a pain and can take years to truly get the hang of. also chosing grits and a good stone that wont crumble and scratch the shit out of your knife.

you can get a lansky for 35-40$

or you can get a spyderco sharpmaker for 50-60$

i use one of these for rough stuff, really bad edges and reprofiling. i would recommend this because if you arent going to be sharpening often and dont need a razor edge itll be fine.

a good strop can get expensive but honestly you can just pick one for 15-20$ and some buffing compound for 3-10$

you can also use one of these to get a mirror edge, closer to finishing, freehand sharpening again has a larger learning curve, practice on a crappy knife. seriously. you will fuck up at first. you should see my first knife, gross...

if you decide in the freedom of freehand sharpening, check out atomedges guide in the sidebar. pretty helpful.

I respect your position coming into this and the responses you've given; very level overall and a nice reprieve from the folks that 'really want a karambit' for 'self defense' and 'because it looks cool'.

I'd say you should still take a look at the sidebar for knife choices if you'd be interested in carrying one. While it is an inferior self defense tool in many cases compared to a lot of alternatives (pepper spray + tied laces), it's still a fantastic tool for a bunch of crap that's significantly more likely to happen than you needing it for self defense. I've carried a knife on me daily for over half my life and at this point leaving home without one is like declawing a cat - I just feel like I'm missing something key.

If you're looking for a smaller sized knife there are a good amount of options, but the Kershaw Chill is a great knife overall, even moreso at a $20 price point. If you're ok with spending a bit more, the Kershaw Skyline is another well-loved, low-impact carry. You can also look at Spyderco's Ambitious, or the slightly larger Tenacious. A Tenacious was my first Spyderco knife and I still love the thing. Some other alternatives are the Ontario Rat 1, the smaller Rat 2.

Hopefully this helps - if you have any questions at all, please feel free to respond.

>Have you ever taken a self-defense class?

This is great advice. Especially if you're at college, you can likely take self-defense classes for free or for a very low charge.

Since it sounds like both you and your roommate are on the small side, I highly recommend you take something like Brazilian jiu jitsu, which teaches you how to defend yourself without having to be particularly fast, strong, or big.

You can probably look up martial arts courses on your campus web-site. Don't feel intimidated. I've gone to a few different martial arts courses and they're extremely safe.

It's sexist, but because you're a girl, you'll probably be treated with greater "care." That does NOT mean YOU won't learn what you need to defend yourself: feel free to go "all out" when practicing with the men in the course. I understood why sometimes I'd hit the mat hardest when squaring off with the few women there.

>would you consider carrying mace?

Mace is likely to be available at a sporting goods stores. You can also purchase it online from Amazon. If you've signed up for the free Amazon Prime service for students, then you can have it in your hands in two days for no extra charge.

This is the pepper spray I got for my girlfriend. Right now it's less than $8 and comes with a keychain. You can shop around on the site and find something you like.

Good luck.

Depends on many things... and once you get to high quality knives, preference is a huge thing.

I enjoy ESEE-3MIL

They have one of the best warranties, but the price also reflects it.
it's 1095 high carbon steel, easy to sharpen and maintain, but can rust if you don't keep it clean.


You probably don't need a large knife for most things.

If you want to spend more on something fancy you can get a BUSSE




as everyone said... can't go wrong with mora for the price.. i'm personally not a fan though. I wouldn't say overall it's high quality, but the blade, where it matters.. is.


It's not too difficult to find a good camp/hunting knife. Like I said, mostly preference.

Just make sure you go with a good knife company or maker.

You can even find some real nice custom fixed knives for cheap from up and coming knife makers if you search around a bit.

Also, you could just get a folding knife.


if you want a super inexpensive one that's as legendary as the mora there is opinel no 8 - also carbon steel



or the Ontario Rat


anyhow, tons of options.

First of all - congrats!

Second of all, IMO the best knife to get as a present for groomsmen is the Buck 110 Folding Hunter:

• Good looking, easily recognizable classic knife.
  
  
• It's made in the US.
  
  
• Could actually be used and will not fold during normal use (good strong lock).
  
  
• Comes with a good quality leather sheath.
  
  
• Well within your budget.
  
  Plus you could get it engraved and make the present even more special.
  
  Cheers and good luck!

Papa Johns worker with Irma right around the corner.

Top Row (from left to right):

Oakley SI Half Jacket 2.0: $72 with knockoff polarized mirrored lenses bought on amazon here for $20.

Leatherman Pro Wave: Not a special edition of Wave, just bought through Leatherman's Pro program. $55 with the clip found here for $5.

Timex Ironman Classic 30: Great $30-$40 digital watch that through everything has yet to hiccup, let alone fail, once.

iPhone 7: Matte Black. I'm one of those people who actually doesn't love or hate apple of android. I just happen to have a macbook and an iPhone, and that works for me.

Otterbox Symmetry Series: Wanted a $35 case to match my phone and got one. Lint and dust all over the port openings and inside the case?! Works great, just likes to get dirty.

Oakley SI Flak Beta Prism: $117 through Oakley's standard issue, these are the steel frames thanks to some confusing customer service calls. Polarized lenses with their mumbo jumbo technology actually make colors pop a bit.

Middle Row:

Black Leather Wallet: I don't know, probably found at Kohls or something. Nothing special, just gets the job done.

Field Notes Expedition: Awesome $13 notebooks that use a plasticy paper for writing in any conditions. Finally halfway through my first book, as I like to use all of the real estate available on each page. A bit worn, but character, right?

Amazon Special Wristwatch: There's so much conflicting branding everywhere, who knows who makes it. Anyway, have had it for a while and it seems to tell time. The band is a bit weird, but what would one expect for $16?

Car Keys: RIP me. I drive a minivan. sigh. Oh well, it's what I got.

Bottom Row:

Spyderco Tenacious: Perfect $40 knife if you don't want a beater and also don't want your wallet to scream in agony. I just need a good whetstone set to be able to do it justice.

Bose Soundsport Earbuds: Stay in my weird ears. I exercise regularly, but that doesn't mean I like it. Music helps me forget the lactic acid burning my muscles. They don't make the audio-only ones anymore, so here's a $99 pair for apple devices.

Wristbands: Air Force Academy in blue and Domestic Violence in purple. I wear these because I don't want to expose myself to the world of "Etsy." yikes.

Chrome Fisher Space Pen Bullet With Clip: ~$20 and so damn slippery. Awesome pen for being a pen, but I need something more practical for greasy hands. Any ideas? Not looking for anything more than like 30 bucks.

Kizer Vagnino Velox 2: A beautiful flipper on ballbearings. HOLY cow this thing flies out with vengeance and feels like a million bucks. A true gentleman's folder. However, I am not a gentleman... I see some ugly grip tape in it's future to make up for impracticality of no serrations on the back of the blade or handle for grip. Before anyone tries to complain about a 17 yr old with a $200 knife, I found 'er on Massdrop for $82 after shipping. Would I say it is worth the 13 hours of work needed to pay for it? Yes. Yes I would.

Links to materials:

• Plano 2-3700: amazon ~$9.08
  
• Feldherr FS010B: amazon (5pcs) ~$15.99, amazon (10pcs) ~$16.99
  
  

  About the container:
  

  
  Using a fishing stowaway tackle box and some foam, it's really easy to make a neat little container to hold all your TTRPG stuff. You can stack more or less layers of foam inside divisions to make it easier to reach (the potions have 3 layers) or to make more room for bigger things (the d20s only have 1 layer). Half-divisions hold standard 1-inch base miniatures perfectly (the fairy lady is a metal mini printed off Hero Forge).
  
  The tackle box used is one of the larger sizes Plano has to offer, but if you don't have as much stuff to stash, the Plano Prolatch 3600 or the Plano Prolatch 3500 are smaller options that also work great. These sizes are better for players who want a case like this or DMs with nothing else but a couple dice sets and some minis.
  
  Keep in mind that there will be a lot of foam left over. The 2-3700 only required two or three sheets of foam to triple-stack the entire container, and I got myself a 10-pack. If you need to get rid of the extra foam, getting a couple 3500's for your players is a nice gift, considering they only run about $4 each. I got a four-pack of the 2-3700's since most of my players also DM, so hopefully that uses up the rest of the 10-pack of foam.

First of all this is the item i think you will purchase with this order - http://amzn.com/B00006IE7L

Now for my list.... prepare to get wood ;)

1. http://amzn.com/B003373NCO - Marble Wood, occasionally known as Cake Wood.
   
   
2. http://amzn.com/B00C3UQZVS - Osage Orange wood, orange like simon's hair.
   
   
3. http://amzn.com/0670759074 - Book, what wood is that?
   
   
4. http://amzn.com/B004TNWD40 - Swedish made Mora knife. would cut through a steak as if it were water
   
   
5. http://amzn.com/B008X2ZFG6 - Camelthorn wood, named after an animal.
   
   
6. http://amzn.com/B0032YUTP2 - Cocobolo wood, has streaks of purple when freshly sanded.
   
   
7. http://amzn.com/B005H59GN0 - Pocoyo Racing, a game I've wanted to buy my son for a long time.
   
   
8. http://amzn.com/B008GUSPB2 - Masturbating to my most favorite wood species should be considered a guilty pleasure.
   
   
9. http://amzn.com/B005G2G4D4 - A tool, this was easy
   
   
10. http://amzn.com/B009FBJ7WM - From my childhood, Nike high tops.
    
    
11. http://amzn.com/B009ZD6D1I - Carving set with organized display case.
    
    
12. http://amzn.com/B00123YCQC - Carving knife set, for my hobby
    
    
13. http://amzn.com/B00DXNYWLO - Kiridashi Kogatana blade, nerdy.... because ninjas.
    
    
14. http://amzn.com/B007AS3PPW - Ancient Bog Oak wood, naturally black from being in a swamp for 1000+ years
    
    
15. http://amzn.com/B004JTTWWK - Spalted Tamarind wood, sometimes known to contain streaks of pale green.
    
    
16. http://amzn.com/B00465DUVG - Nike skate shoes, something you wear.
    
    
17. http://amzn.com/B006HFU6HY - Macassar Ebony wood, funny because it smells like B.O when you cut it.
    
    
18. http://amzn.com/B004JTQDM2 - Hackberry wood, comes from a flowering tree. Without bees it could not reproduce.
    
    
19. http://amzn.com/1551052741 - Book about trees and shrubs, could potentially be used to select ornamental species for a garden.
    
    
20. http://amzn.com/B009ZD6D1I - Deluxe woodcarving and palm tool set by Flexcut, My most favorite Item.
    
    Thank you so much for the contest, I had alot of fun putting this together. Happy Happy cake day /u/ask_seek_knock! and good luck to everyone!
    
    
    
    

• ~$7-8 Sanrenmu 7010/710 - You can find these at Gearbest for cheap as hell when they have sales but they're absolutely $30 worth of knife
  
• ~$10-20 Opinel no.6-12 - Depends on blade size/steel/handle wood. #6 is under 3in blade if that kind of thing matters.
  
• ~$20 CRKT Drifter
  
• ~$20 Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara2
  
• ~$20-25 Ontario Rat II or Rat I
  
• ~$30 Victorinox Cadet Alox
  
• ~$30 Kershaw Cryo
  
• ~$35 CRKT Ripple
  
• ~$35 Spyderco Persistence
  
• ~$40 Kershaw Skyline - Often on sale in the ~$30 range
  
• ~$40 Kershaw Leek - Same sales as with the Skyline \^^
  
  Honorable Mention: Case knives. Traditional lockbacks. Hard as nails and pretty to boot. True pocket knives. Your grandfather (possibly great grandfather) had one. Good stuff the lot of them. $25-50 will get you a legacy knife that you can carry and use and then pass to your kid.
  
  You don't need to spend $200 to get a quality, durable, reliable knife. I've owned all of these knives at one time or another and loved every one of them. Sure they needed sharpening more often and sometimes something a little more drastic (Sanrenmus are often cheaper to replace than fix) but the value is insane. Plus, lets face facts; we're much more likely to break out our Cadet when we get box duty than our Sebenza.
  
  Knife enthusiasts (brothers) if there's a weighed and measured cheapo that I forgot, let me know.

I'm not an expert either, just sharing some things I do.

Oils from your hands are technically bad for the steel, but it's not the end of the world. Wipe your knife with a cloth with a little bit of WD 40 every once and a while.

For sharpening, I like the Lansky Deluxe Sharpening System. I didn't think it would see much use, but now I sharpen my knives all the times. General consensus is that it's awesome for smaller knives, but sucks for big ones (anything over 5" in my opinion)

To get the little rust spots you mentioned out, just use some steel wool.

EDC knives are tools. They get used. Don't worry about if it's pretty or not. I use my SOG Trident for random things about every other day, and I have since I got it over a year ago. The Kershaw Skyline is an excellent knife.

Google "EDC Knife Care" and I'm sure you'll get tons more answers.

> But what else should I get her? Ammo, sure. How much ammo is enough to practice for a bit? I really have no idea.

For ammo you'll want two varieties: defensive ammo and training ammo. Quality defensive ammo usually comes in a 25-round box, priced around $15-$20. You'll probably want 2 boxes of this, one to practice with and another to keep loaded in the actual/ready magazine for defensive use. There's about a dozen excellent brands on the market, I like Critical Defense by Hornady, but all contemporary 9mm defensive ammo is pretty good.

For training ammo you can buy it online. Just look at gunbot.net and sort by price. There's 3 general types and they'll all work fine: steel case, reloaded/remanufactured, and bulk. You just gotta keep an eye out on the internet regularly and find whatever deal looks good - be aware of hidden fees in shipping rates. Generally ordering ammo online is cheaper than the store, but check with your local gun store as they might sell cheap stuff. There's some puritans out there who claim issues with different types of training ammo, especially steel case - this is because they're confused and think that modern steel case 9mm is corrosive like old WW2 bulk steel case ammo was corrosive. TulAmmo and BrownBear and Wolf should all run mostly fine in your wife's Glock.

Quantity is going to vary - but you certainly can't have too much. At least 200 rounds for the first outing is good. Have her start with the cheap ammo, then before the day is over switch to the defensive loads and fire a magazine or two - this is mostly to ensure if functions in her pistol, there's not a huge difference in how it handles.

If she goes to a class the instructor will recommend or sell the ammo.

> Does it require a case or anything? A cleaning kit?

Generally a "case" for a pistol is the holster. Your gun store will sell some cheap types of holsters, and just start her with a really cheap one. When she moves to concealed carry she'll probably upgrade to one that fits her preferences of how she wants to carry and where to carry.

For cleaning you'll just need a bore brush for cleaning the barrel and a general cleaner/lubricant. Your gun store will sell some, I'd recommend Break Free CLP; it's an all-in-one spray. You actually don't really need to clean Glocks until after ~500 rounds, that's when you'll have malfunctions due to a dirty gun.

> What else is absolutely essential to buy with this gun?

Hearing protection. These Howard Leight ear muffs are extremely popular - they'll work fine for training purposes - they also amplify quiet sounds, so if there is a thump in the night you can throw these on and hear someone breathing in the next room. I've never seen someone disappointed in these ear muffs. If she's spending a long day at the range she'll also want inner-ear plugs as well.

Dear OP, since it seems you are honestly curious for discussion, I will provide a thorough and honest breakdown as to why Jim's presentation on gun control can be considered, at best, low-blow hyperbole and satire that is not constructive in the discussion of gun control in the USA.

0:00~1:30 - Jim states government mandates on guns have worked in Australia and acknowledges some general cultural differences in the US. Jim dismisses high profile shootings that have happened in Australia post mandate (granted it is not nearly as bad as what happens in the USA)

Pt.1, 1:30-5:00 - Jim states the only argument for having a gun is that one likes guns, that they increase risk of domestic tragedy, and are not a viable solution for home protection. In examining the possible (and very unique) benefits of having a gun, it's more than just simply "I like guns" (and I promise I will elaborate on that later). In regards to suicide, the USA is not a statistical leader; countries with stricter controls such as France, Japan and S.Korea have higher suicide rates. In regards to responsible storage, there are solutions that lock guns away from curious children while allowing quick access should they be required.

Pt.1, 5:00~6:45 - Jim mocks the suggestion that armed staff at schools could reduce the damage from school shooters, describing staff as lacking qualification or incentive. Some school districts have regular police officers to be security at schools, often carrying their duty weapons while fulfilling their regular duties.

Pt.1, 6:45~7:15 Jim reels it all back saying not everyone agrees with him, but this is just a stand-up routine, so don't get all wound up. Well, thanks Jim! It's not like gun control supporters are going to take you seriously and share this link on social media to make their case, compelling me to write a serious response to your admittedly not so serious comedy routine. But you do take this seriously, as the ratings for this video are disabled, and you delete any comments containing thoughtful and honest disagreement.

Pt.1, 7:15-7:45 Jim addresses those who disagree with him, saying they're upset because he has "good points." No you don't, you dishonest hyperbolic gaslighter. If good comedy is about making light about the hard truths of life, please do better with your facts next time.

Pt.2, 0:00~2:15 - Jim is right that the first amendment protects him as he criticizes other amendments, and that they are not sacred as they are amendments, after all. So, here's what it takes to change the constitution, specifically in regards to repealing the 2nd as other amendments have in the past. Easy!

Pt.2, 2:15~3:00 - Slavery strawman. Slavery is antithetical to the ideals of human rights and freedom. Firearms have unique qualities in promoting freedom (again, will get into that, I promise).

Pt.2, 3:00~4:00 - Jim says it's the negligent 1% that screws up what responsible people should be allowed to do. Generally, that is the case. Gun control in the USA, for the most part, has been expanding for the past 100 years, most of it failing due generally to a lack of enforcement.

Pt.2, 4:00~5:00 - Unfunny and unproductive sidestep into Descartes foundational philosophy; moving on.

Pt.2, 5:00~6:15 - Jim says guns are too easy to buy (and that they can be delivered, which is mostly false). Jim jokes at the idea of a black market, saying crazy people won't have as much access to them. This may be true, but like with the prohibition, this incentivizes organized crime. And with enough guns to arm every human in the USA, manufacturing capabilities such as machining and 3D printing, all of which has a better shelf life than moonshine, a black market is a very real possibility.
Muzzle loaded guns can be shipped through the mail

Pt.2, 6:15~7:50 Jim makes fun of the idea that a militia can resist a government force that is technologically superior. Funny enough, this is used as an argument for why either a) the power of the federal government be limited (legally and militaristically) or b) that militias should be allowed to own more than just rifles. Vietnam and Iraq prove that guerrilla militias can exhaust the US military. If the government does become tyrannical, they would need to break significant red tape to deploy the full capabilities of the US military on the homeland (see the Posse Comitatus Act, restricting such deployment). Militias would likely be lead by veterans to fight against what remains of the US military that can be deployed and has not defected over unconstitutional orders. A tyrannical government that would break through this red tape would effectively become delegitimized, fragmenting the US into civil war. As terrifying as this sounds, the 2nd Amendment helps ensure that an emerging dictatorship cannot easily exploit the resources and people of the union. The better armed a populous, the more expensive and exhausting it will be to keep them under the boot.

And before I go, I'd like to cash in on some identity politics because it often seems to be all the rage with those who support gun control. I'm a 2nd Gen immigrant to the USA, and my parents were refugees escaping a tyrannical regime. Their generation had to take up arms to buy time to escape. Those who were not so lucky were imprisoned, forced into labor and worked to death, buried in mass graves. I find it tragically ironic that gun control advocates are quite often the same people who would call Trump the 2nd Hitler, because if that is the case, then get ready to be the 2nd Warsaw Ghetto uprising. I understand there's a preference to more peaceful measures in making a more perfect union, and we should keep it that way. But if limited only to free expression and protest, change might not happen at all. Just ask the thousands of students who participated in the 1989 Tienanmen square protests. Oh wait, you can't.

If you made it this far, thanks for taking the time. If not, hey, I'll save this the next time someone shares this unproductive rambling from Jim as if it carried sound wisdom. **edit: formatting

Welcome to one of the most expensive hobbies you'll ever get into. It's addictive. I recommend selling blood and semen. Mixed. Doesn't have to be your own. I'll answer your questions numerically.

1. When you go to pick up the gun you'll have to do a few things. Show ID to prove it belongs to you as well as fill out the 4473. The 4473 is the paperwork required for the NICS background check. It's easy to fill out and if you have ANY doubts or questions while filling it out, ASK QUESTIONS. Most gun stores would rather you ask questions than screw up the paperwork and have to use another copy. Hell, tell them it's your first time. Most places will help you.
   
   
2. The gun, if it's brand new (and sometimes used), will come in a box. You don't need a case for it. Depending on your state, they might require you to bring a lock, but more than likely, it'll come with one. Some states do not allow the factory lock because they're garbage and the state law is dumb. For most long guns though, you typically won't need it to take it home.
   
   
3. You can absolutely find low recoil slugs. There are other options, but that's just an example. Fiocchi does make good ammo.
   
   
4. If you're going to an indoor range, I HIGHLY recommend you double up on hearing protection. That means foam plugs properly seated into your ear canal AND over ear muffs. It's good to invest in a good set of electronic ones like these. They allow you to hear but when there's an audible noise above a threshold, they will muffle it. When putting in your foam plugs, make sure you roll them in your fingers then push them INTO your ear canal. Too many people just push them into their ear while they're puffed up and that does not create the seal required to protect your hearing.
   
   E. If you go to the range, do not be afraid to ask a range safety officer for tips or to help you. MOST RSO's are knowledgeable. Most.
   
   
5. You also want eye protection. Regular reading or sun glasses DO NOT COUNT. You want glasses rated for impact. If indoor, you don't want darkened lenses. I suggest regular ol' clear lenses. Affordable option.
   
   
6. ALWAYS obey the 4 rules of gun safety.

I have a basic arkansas stone that works very well at what it does... but I'm not necessarily a pro at what I do. Hand sharpening on a stone requires you to hold the knife at a very constant angle while working it through a relatively complex motion. Very difficult to get a good edge but if you practice and get the skills it's the cheapest and most versatile method of sharpening. Most people (definitely myself included) also need a decent preexisting edge to sharpen as they can 'set' the knife on that flat. Much harder if the existing edge is crap.

What I have for quick and dirty sharpening is a Lansky set. A bracket clamps to the knife and holds a rod (attached to the stone) at essentially a constant angle to the blade. It has some issues so I don't use it on the knives I really care about but it's good for really quickly bringing a beat knife back to a decently usable edge. I use my Lansky set on kitchen knives.

However, if you're willing to spend a bit more money, the Spyderco Sharpmaker is a very well reviewed product. I suppose this is my 'Everest' tip as I don't actually have one but I'll buy one eventually, when I have a particularly profitable feeling month. The idea here is that it's much easier to hold a knife vertical than at some obscure angle like 27 degrees. The put the sharpening stone on the angle then essentially do a 'chopping' motion along the stone to bring an edge in. It solves a lot of the problems of the Lansky but doesn't require as much skill as just a stone. These are rather well regarded in the knife community, though those guys still go after hand sharpening.

After about 25 years of not owning anything except a bolt-action rifle and a breach-loading shotgun, I jumped into the AR-15 world nearly two years ago, and now I'm well-and-truly hooked. I'm still a huge nub, so don't take my advice too seriously.

There's a lot to learn just in one platform. But, don't let that keep you from getting both an AR and an AK.

Learning AKs feels overwhelming for completely different reasons than ARs. That said, I am always impressed with how well my AK performs, and how comfortable it is to shoot.

If you haven't already, head over to /r/ak47 and check out the buyer's guide so you don't make a big mistake early on. The oft recommended WASR 10 is considered the best starter AK for the money. Lurk /r/gundeals for a shot at getting one on sale; they've been seen for less than $550 recently which is better than they were pre-election.

I do have to caution you: Accessories and customization for an AK is a completely different game than ARs. You might find that your "cheap plinker" rifle ends up costing you more to trick out, resulting in the same net cost-of-ownership as an AR shooting slightly more expensive ammo. If you end up happy with a stock AK, though, it's a great investment, and a welcome break from sending .22 cal downrange.

All that said, I think if you're picking a semi-auto purely on the basis of budget and having fun hitting targets, this is what I would highly recommend (after wasting a lot of money on stuff I didn't like):

• Rifle: Ruger SR556 or S&W M&P 15
  
• Optic: Bushnell TRS-25 RDS (skip the rear flip-up sight)
  
• Magazines: 10 Magpul Gen M2 PMAGs
  
• Sling: Little Creek Trading Stupid Simple Sling
  
• Supplies: 4oz bottle of G96 CLP, old toothbrush, paper towels
  
• Targets: stapler, staples, paper plates, and a Sharpie
  
• Safety: Glasses and Muffs
  
• Ammo: 1000 rounds of .223 Wolf Polyformance
  
  This is all you need. Just have fun. You'll quickly discover what you like/dislike, and be more informed about upgrades and accessories.
  
  Edit: Fixed a link.

Storage - This is also useful for transporting bits boxes or models and the top is great for tanks or modelling supplies. I would suggest going to your local outdoor shop and buying there so you can get the size you want. I ordered from Amazon without thinking to check the size and now I have an adorable little tackle box. It's great for bits, but not so excellent for army transportation.

Brushes -
I generally use the smallest I can find of the filbert, spotter, and angle shader. I also have a deer foot, but that was because the lady at the art shop was too good at her job.

GW Paints - The new line is pretty excellent as a new painter. I haven't dealt with Vallejo but I know my LGS sells them and a couple people use them. I hear they're much better with airbrush.

Plastic Cement

And whatever superglue you like.

And of course you'll need sprue clippers, an exacto, a toothbrush, and files, but it doesn't really matter which of those you get.

$150 is plenty of budget for a good knife. This one is just slightly over that budget but will last you the rest of your life. It's kind of my dream survival knife.

The Fallkniven F1 is very popular as well and right in your price range.

Currently I use this knife which is also very good.

If you want to go a little less expensive still, Becker makes some good ones such as the Bk16. I know the Becker doesn't look anything like "hand made", but I have the BK2- I used paint remover to take the black coating off the blade, replaced the plastic handles with micarta and stained it to look more like wood, and built a leather sheath for it. It's a beautiful knife now. Too bad it's so goddamn heavy.

You could also go with something like the Mora bushcraft. I have that one also, very decent knife.

You could even just get a regular Mora or a Condor bushlore which are even more economical options.

If you're planning on spending more than $150 just save your money and save up for a premium optic like an Aimpoint, EOTech, Leupold, or Trijicon. If you're looking in the 100-150 range, Holosun makes a great solar/battery powered red dot that holds zero well and has a 30-50k hour battery life(when it's actually in battery mode). If you're looking for a more traditional optic, Bushnell and Nikon have good 1-4x optics. If you're looking for more magnification a Leupold
is within your reach. Vortex has strong offerings in both red dots and traditional optics if you're willing to spend a just bit more. If you're looking in the 50-150 range I'd look into a TRS-25 or Primary Arms for a red dot. For a traditional scope i'd stick with a fixed power optic like this Bushnell, you're going to be hard pressed to find a decent magnified optic with good glass in this price range, fixed power scopes are simpler in construction and offer at least better durability but i'd consider sticking to a non magnified optic under the $100 range. If you're trying to spend even less than $50 there is apparently a very well made $20 Fieldsport which is worth a search on youtube. I wouldn't consider anything magnified under $50 but this is a good range for a cool carry handle with elevation adjustment and retro look. Shooting irons can be more fun than using optics sometimes.

The delica is a pretty great option for whittling. It's a high carbon blade, so it holds up to wood fibers and hard use pretty well. It's got a solid lockup and zero blade play, so control and safety are taken care of. But honestly, it's a better EDC tool than a carving knife.

Another good option I'd throw out for you are high carbon mora blades.

You might also dig this. It's specially made for wood work.

I'm also a new shooter for about a year now. I try to go at least once a month to the nearest outdoor place for rifle and hand guns shooting. So far, many of the other replies have done a great job so i'll just chime in with my recommendation for the ears protection. Right now, i'm using these 3M Peltor Combat ARms Earplugs. They're working well for me ever since I got them as a gift from a friend. I bought 3 more just so I have backups. I have one on me at all time, one in my range bag, and one in my car. Before that, I also use the Howard Leight R-01526. The Howard Leight earmuff are also great for its price. However, I don't like it for long session because of my big head that get squished too tightly if they're on for 20min or longer. It also gets in the way when i'm aiming down the iron sights. Other than comfort wise, the Howard's are fantastic in its operational purposed. If you can, try them both then decide which system works better for you. I have them both and most prefer the 3M more because it's has less profile while in use.

Well, I prefer a lighter EDC, so i'd recommend the

• Kershaw Skyline
  
  This one is a very nice EDC for most people who use a knife for lighter tasks such as box cutting, opening packages and the like. I would not recommend this for someone who tends to use their knives for "heavier duty" tasks.
  
  
• Kershaw Leek
  
  Pretty much the same recommendation criteria as the Skyline, but this knife is both spring assisted, and has a more "delicate" point.
  
  
• Spyderco Delica
  
  Probably one of the most recommended knives for someone who wants an overall solid EDC at the price point with a lot of versatility and good overall durability. I own one myself, and this one is great for EDC.
  
  
• Ontario RAT 2
  
  The Ontario knife company really hit it out of the park with the RAT series, the Ontario RAT model II is a better choice for EDC over the RAT model I, mainly because the knife is a bit smaller putting it at about 2.75" blade and less "intimidating" for someone who needs for EDC.
  
  
• ESEE Izula
  
  I really like the Izula as a fixed blade EDC knife, it's a fucking tank and you can be sure you can rely on it everywhere, but it does lose some versatility and convenience because it isn't a folder.
  
  --------------------------------------------------
  
  Please keep in mind that these are just my suggestions and reviews, if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask me anything.
  

It's really important that you get a tool that's right for you. As you notice, I don't recommend planes, the other guy did.

I have reasons but they are mostly my own. For eexample I wouldn't recommend planes because they will only work when working on straight grain. The moment you encounter a knot, you'll be struggling. And on top of it, planes are expensive and only the expensive ones are worth getting. A cheap drawknife or rasp works fine but a cheap plane is gonna make you cry.

Now, you were saying you don't wanna file for 10 hours. I think you're a little bit mistaken about rasps. You will probably be surprised how quick a good, coarse rasp is. They can devour wood. The reason why you need a rasp is because there will be spots in wood where the grain is running off. A cutting tool will struggle to cut when grain runs off but a rasp will still work.

Alright, I recommend the following. Get yourself a rasp. I have no particular recommendation. Check out ebay and see if you can get one there. If not, get one from harbor freight. Look for a big one. Possibly these 4-in-1s.

Then, get a Morakniv knife. The company is famous for making high quality bushcrafting knives. These knives are absolutely amazing for working on wood.

And a knife is better than a plane or drawknife if you don't have a workbench. Just place the wood against the ground and your foot and use the knife.

On Amazon for $14, the companion. https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40

It's one of their cheapest and great. They come with a scandi grind. It's the best grind for woodworking and easiest to resharpen.

> I can't really recommend any cheap walkie talkies, but i can help with some of your other questions. The helmet rails are called ARC rails, and some things you may want for a helmet setup are any push to talk button with kenwood style pins for the baofeng, a set of hearing amplifiers/ comm headset like howard leight impact sports, and any 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable to connect the ptt to the howard leights so enemies can't hear your comms blaring out of the radio.

Thanks that helps a lot. I'm wondering though even without a license is anybody really going to care / would it even be a problem just using it for games every other weekend? Not like I'm gonna get a knock on the door from the cops about something like this am I? Won't other people in the games be using the same setup?

These helm attachments + Headset = yes? And just any radio really for example = all good to go?

You gotta be more specific in your original questions buddy.

First of all, there are 2 reasons to remove an animal from a trap. To rescue (and minimize harm to the animal), or to harvest (and minimize damage to the trap). Here in bushcrafter land, I wouldn't usually assume you aren't planning on eating what was caught in the trap.....

It does sound like you are looking for the rescue side of things, and this is for a film, and you are looking for realism..

A swiss army knife or basic folding pocketknife are fairly realistic options for what a typical person might have with them with just a general plan of being 'prepared'. Something like 4-5inch Condor Bushlore is a decent approximation for what a more bushcraft oriented person might have with them in a wilderness setting. Someone who is going out intentionally to rescue animals from traps though, that is an entirely different question! For that you'd want a blunt tip, the type found in rescue knives, and/or EMT scissors.

For realism, most of us here know enough about the various types of knife that we could likely give you good answers - but you really should explain what kind of realism you are actually going for.

Average outdoorsy person with basic 'preparedness' is likely to have something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Army-Huntsman-Leather/dp/B000IOI0NC/

Or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Spine-Fixed-Blade-Camping/dp/B07DDCG3HD

Average Joe who has no idea of what makes a knife good or useful is likely to have something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Tac-Force-Police-Assisted-Tactical-Rescue/dp/B01LZ0T3N9



Average bushcraft subreddit user probably has something similar to:

https://www.amazon.com/Condor-Tool-Knife-Bushlore-Hardwood/dp/B002CC6BPM

but wishes they had:

https://www.amazon.com/Benchmade-162-Bushcrafter-Drop-Point/dp/B00B0E1MB6

Someone going out with them intention of rescuing persons or animals would probably be carrying something like this though:

https://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Rescue-Tool-Pocket-Fluorescent/dp/B000PX0LKG

https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Assist-Orange-Handle-Rescue/dp/B0012G6KI2

https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-832590-Raptor-Shears/dp/B07N6P2RCB

https://www.amazon.com/DGX-Titanium-Coated-Stainless-Shears/dp/B01B2YF0AM

And then finally, I'll say this - pretty much anything sharper than a butter knife can be used to safely rescue an animal from most situations. Hell I could probably do it with a can opener or nail clippers. So just decide what sort of situation you expect your characters to have intentionally been prepared for, and go from there.

https://www.amazon.com/GI-P-38-Can-Opener-5-pack/dp/B005EAIXAU

If you want a knife, take a look at the Kershaw Leek it's an awesome, medium sized folder, it is a great value for what you get. Amazon puts them on sale for sub $35 sometimes, so keep an eye out for that. It also has some different colored handle scales if you want to personalize it more to your liking.

If you want something a little smaller than the Leek, you could take a look at the Spyderco Ambitious, which is also a high value knife (less so than it's $35 bigger brother the Tenacious).

If you want an even smaller blade, take a look at the Spyderco Ladybug, it sports a 1.94 inch blade, so very inconspicuous and not "scary looking" at all. It'll look even more fun if you get yellow handle scales on it. They also have a purple version.

These are just a few options for you to look at, it really is only the tip of the iceberg. These are low cost, high value for what you get, I'm recommending the lower cost knives specifically because someone who isn't into knives might not value them as much (and thus not willing to pay higher amounts of money) compared to a person who is into knives. A lot of people think "What do I need a knife for?", well buy one, carry it on your person for a month and get back to me, you will see what a useful tool it is after carrying one for a decent amount of time.

Everyone can recommend you a bunch of items. How much are you wanting to spend?

He probably has hearing protection but if he just has buds, get some howard leight pros for $30. Also there are some generic bore snakes on amazon.

Howard Leights

.45 Pistol Boresnake

Shotgun Boresnake

and Midway has a really nice bag for a good price. They make different variations too if you want to look around.

That's all about $100 but it's a nice bag, ear protection, and some useful cleaning stuff but he'll still need patches and a cleaning kit. The shotgun would honestly be fine with just the bore snake especially if it's a pump at least for the time being unless he shoots a lot. Get something more pistol specific to keep that running nicely.

I've come into this late and don't know if anyone's suggested these things yet, but just in case they haven't been I'll go ahead.

I'm glad to hear you've called the police and that they'll be patrolling your area more. In the meantime, you can buy a door brace to ensure your door stays shut while you're home, and pepper spray to keep by your bed. I would also recommend purchasing a pepper spray to keep on your key ring so that you have something on your when you are walking to and from your car.

You could also buy a taser gun, but I have no personal experience with them and could not vouch for them personally like I can for a door jam and pepper spray.

I'm sorry you're going through this. It's really scary to not feel safe, especially in your home, which should be a source of comfort for you. Take steps to make yourself feel better protected, and continue to call the police if anything else occurs. Do NOT hesitate to call them. I hope this situation gets taken care of quickly for you.

Depends on how many things you have.

I started with this Plano 3700, but out grew it pretty fast. I have several additional pro-latch boxes of various layouts to hold the added content.

But thats just for storing at home, or (when i play HotAC) allows me to pick the 4 trays i need, put them in, with all the large ships in the top section (with pluck foam to hold them), and carry that.

Now if im just taking a couple built lists to my FLGS to play for a day, i put my play stuff in this Frabill Softbag that holds plano 3600 size trays.

In that, this tournament tray fits to hold my range rulers/maneuver templates and such. (They also make the tray to fit in the 3700 size as well)

The plano trys are good because the compartments can be adjusted to fit the size of the ship to reduce the amount of space thats wasted. I also go a bit further and add some cotton in to protect the ships paint and so they dont rattle around too much.

Here are some (rather old) pics of my collection in it.

So, it's not hard for a knife to be BIFL. In fact, I have some $10 knives that probably are. What you pay for with a knife is edge quality, geometry, balance, and handle. In a lot of ways, having something to sharpen said knives with is the most important thing, as otherwise your knives will inevitably end up just as dull as your grandmother's.

How much time and effort are you interested in putting into your knives? There are a variety of options. Purists tend to prefer a sharpening stone, as it offers the greatest control. If you want to nerd about your knives, this allows you to control the edge angle and exactly how much material you remove from the knife. It's also the hardest though, and the one you're most likely to slack off from. The Lansky System offers nearly as much control and greater ease of use, and many people like this option.

If you know that both of those options are realistically not going to happen, get a pull through. It'll take a bit more metal from the edge when you sharpen it, but it's worth it if it's what you'll use. I got my parents one, actually. If you get a Western knife, you can pretty much get any pull through. If you get at least one Asian knife, get this pull through so that you can control the angle, as Asian knives are generally sharpened to a more acute angle.

As for knives? You can get really nice ones like Tojiro and Shun, you can get well reviewed ones like Victorinox, and as long as you don't get the super cheapo micro serrated knives, you'll probably be fine. I've got some Tramontina knives from Costco that are quite reasonable, and some Kom Kom knives which I adore and which are stupid cheap. Don't stick wood handled knives in the dishwasher (in general, the dishwasher dulls knives, but it also really is not kind to wood handles), and full tang knives are much better when you're talking wood handles, because they add extra stability.

Don't bother spending a ton of money on bread knives: they're incredibly difficult to sharpen, so it's really not worth it.

Its sad how many "professionals" out there are just morons with a belt sander.

Assuming that your trying to only spend whats on that gift card you looking at the lansky clamp system or one of the chinese edge pro knockoff sharpeners.

the lansky is a decent sharpener but can be a little bit fiddly to work with. however its capable of leaving a mirror polished perfectly flat edge once you know how to use it properly.

Lansky

The edge pro clones are going to be various levels of quality as they are chinese clones of an actual quality product. And if you do decide to get an edge pro knock off please get real edge pro stones or aftermarket stones made fro the edge pro the ones that come with the chinese clones tend to be garbage.

fake edge pro

I know you probably want to spend the money on the amazon gift card but you can also find knife sharpeners for relatively cheap on things like craigslist or here on /r/Knife_Swap

If your willing to spend more than the $50 on the giftcard there are a few more sharpeners that become available such as the spyderco sharpmaker, a real edge pro (cheaper varients apex 1,2 or 3 dont buy the version thats $700) a KME, wicked sharp, and a few others.

If you do decide to get the edge pro I would highly suggest getting the real thing if you can afford it. The edge pro stock stones are perfectly servicable but many of the aftermarket stones for it are way better.

Though if you are on a budget for this you could also get the chinese fake and get some either stock or aftermarket edge pro stones.

The only systems I have personal experience with are the edge pro and the spyderco sharpmaker though the rest of the ones I mentioned come highly recommended often.

I am definitely considering this cheap Simmons .22 mag scope, but I'm wondering if it's worth spending a little more for something like a Nikon Prostaff for almost three times as much.

Hadn't seen the RAR in wood. They look super nice, but the durability of a plastic stock is definitely a bonus. Not so much the flex you mentioned... The Savage B22 could also be interesting in a very similair price range.

>This is excellent, thoughtful and rational response.

I'm glad I was able to find the right words. Plenty of the people who own guns are rational people who put a great deal of thought into their decisions, and don't take owning a deadly weapon lightly. The next time you hear someone making sweeping generalisations about gun-owners, I hope you'll remember that a great deal of us are actually rational individuals.

>I would personally add into the mix a cost benefit ratio - how can I keep the gun secure while having it accessible enough for there to be any point in having it. (The under-bed gun safe struck me as particularly brilliant.) I probably didn't have to say that aloud to you, but I wanted the observation next to what you said.

I think that depends, partially, on the person, and the situation. If you live by yourself, then as long as you lock your doors/windows, I don't think there is particular need to lock up your home defense gun. Same if you live with your significant other, and trust them to handle it responsibly. (If you think that your significant other would shoot you, or themselves, if they had access to a gun, then I think you have bigger issues to worry about than home defense.) In these cases, people might just buy a holster, and bolt it to the back of their nightstand, or just keep it in the nightstand drawer. Those planning to use a long-gun (rifle or shotgun) for home defense might just keep it under the bed.

If you live with roommates, or have children in the home, then there are a lot of quick-access safe options. Here is one example, which could be bolted to the back of the nightstand, or the side of a desk. There are many more quick access safes that can be bolted to a drawer. These safes aren't perfect, but they'll keep your kid from getting the gun.

I've actually seen some under-bed safes, and they are pretty cool. And don't forget, the quick-access safe only needs to be large enough to hold the gun (or guns, if you want to arm yourself and your wife/husband/life partner) you plan on using for home defense. You can always have a big, refrigerator sized safe elsewhere in the house where you keep your other guns.

It's definitely a good observation to make. Some people are in situations where a gun would need to be secured against people who need to be in the home. In those cases, you need to include the cost of adequately securing the gun in your cost-benefit analysis. Even so, as long as you only need to prevent children from accessing it, you're only looking at around $100 of additional cost.

And for that $400 (+ $100, if it needs to be secured) the gun does offer something that other security measures can't. A great lock, a solid door, and shatter-resistant glass can all slow down someone that means you harm, but a gun can actually stop them. But there are responsibilities that come with owning a gun, and so each person needs to assess whether or not they're responsible enough to benefit from owning one. There are some people that would be better off owning one, and some people that wouldn't.

Palmetto has free shipping right now. This means they may have raised some prices on certain things so check the price histories over the last few months if possible. The absolute cheapest way is to build yourself. As in buying all of the parts, not just a complete upper and complete lower. Sometimes this can be pretty negligible, though. The way to ultimately build it cheaper by buying piece by piece would be to do it over time, where you opportunistically look for the best deals. I tried to piece together one for you below. It is cheaper than a ptac and blackhawk! build from palmetto, but not by more than 30-50$. But you have more options, can spread out the cost, and you will know the system and how it works much better.

Lower 60$

lower parts kit 35$

Buffer tube/ stock assembly 27$. check around for Sportsmansguide coupons

Blem upper 41$ plus 10$ flat rate shipping. You could combine your magazine purchases from Cope's with the shipping on the upper.
like this 8$ GI mag or this deal for 10 pmags for 107$.

Bolt Carrier Group 80$

Gas Block 17$

Gas tube 13$

forward assist 16$. You may could find this for a few dollars cheaper elsewhere.

Ejection port assembly 9$

free float quadrail 22$ or regular m4 handguards 19$ but you would need this [9$ delta ring]. or the Magpul MOE handguard for 28$

(http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/dpms-ar-15-m16-delta-pack.aspx?a=369258) to go with it.

Bear Creek Barrel, 16" 70$ plus shipping.

Reliable red dot, TRS 25 for 80$ shipped.

and/or iron sights A2 front 18$

Rear sight 22$

So after FFL transfer on the lower (10-30$ depending on location) and shipping on everything you are looking at between 460$ with iron sights, quad rail, and a mag or around 550$ with a red dot and multiple mags.

Cheapest ammo. and at Sportsmansguide where you could ship it with some of the other stuff and potentially use some of their coupons.

you might want to pick one of these wrenches up at 18$ to do the installs.

I know you might only be beating Palmetto prices by around 50-100$, but if you really are on a budget that could make a difference. These prices aren't the very lowest I've ever seen, but they are some of the best I could find in about 5-10min of looking around. Plus, you get the added benefit of buying your rifle in parts, which could help with your budget limitations, and also, more importantly, you can be really familiar with your firearm and its components.

What kind of knife?

I agree with the comments about learning to do it yourself, but freehand sharpening is a skill that takes time to learn, and you'll want to do on cheaper knives at first.

I usually recommend a lansky constant angle sharpener for most people. It's easy to use, and will give you a perfect edge, much better than most people get freehand.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000B8IEA4?pc_redir=1404306988&robot_redir=1

If you still need it sharpened in a week or so,
Send me a PM, I'm in Brea, and could sharpen it for you if you like. (Knife making is my hobby)

I have this micro safe. I like it cause the fast access, internal battery, holes on bottom for mounting and it comes with a half decent security tether. Of course some bolt cutters could probably cut it. But it is pretty nice.
http://www.amazon.com/Gunvault-MV500-STD-Microvault-Pistol-Safe/dp/B000TG9RCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370903819&sr=8-1&keywords=micro+safe

But for your case I'd recommend
http://www.amazon.com/Gunvault-SpeedVault-SV500-gun-safe/dp/B006OGNLKA/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1370903880&sr=1-2

Fast access and you can bolt it to a stud. I just prefer the fast access for if I'm home during a burglary. There is not going to be a safe that is cheap and portable that is going to prevent a determined burglar So like other users said I'd secure the apartment better as well.

>so i just want to be able to not have to spend absorbent legal fees defending myself.

For sure, the best solution would be to change the storage requirement laws, like how the storage requirements in Washington DC were recently struck down by our supreme court because they prevented people from legally storing guns accessible for self defense.

I'm just talking about your options for now, without any change to the laws.

>unlock your safe

Is there a requirement of what type of safe? Can you use the rapid unlock handgun safes, like this?

>(mag must not be in the gun during storage)

Do they inspect your storage periodically, and do you have warning of when such inspections will occur? I can't see how that could possibly be enforced in the US with our right against unreasonable searches. If you have a warning of when the inspections will occur you could make sure you were complying with the storage requirement just for the inspections, and if you have to use the gun in necessary self defense just lie and say it was unloaded.

>of course both of those options take time which as you know is very precious in a home invasion

Indeed, which is precisely why I'm suggesting you should break the law and be prepared to lie about it because they will be unable to prove you broke the law. We have a strong spirit of civil disobedience in the USA, and we consider an unconstitutional law to not be a binding law at all, we often simply ignore laws we don't agree with and are prepared to defend ourselves in the court of law from the consequences later if necessary.

A fixed blade would be perfect. Mora knives are excellent inexpensive knives that are quite commonly used for camping. They make some with wooden handles, composite handles, stainless blades, and carbon blades. My understanding is that their stainless blades don't hold an edge quite as well as their carbon blades, but carbon blades have the disadvantage of being susceptible to rust. So for an outdoor camping application where you're likely to be running around in dirt and mud and rain and lakes and streams and not likely to have a supply of rubbing alcohol, clean cloths, metal polish, and mineral oil, a stainless blade with composite handle would probably serve you best.

On the other hand, Cody London, that hippy dude from Dual Survival pretty much exclusively uses classic Moras with wooden handles and carbon blades. On the other other hand, he also doesn't wear pants or shoes.

Here are a few to look at.

What's your budget?

You can ever go wrong with ammo. A package of some good defense ammo like Federal HST or Speer Gold Dots makes a good stocking stuffer.

Since he'll need to go to the range for practice (I sure hope so), get a good pair of ear protection like the Howard Leights.


A cheap range bag to carry ammo, gun, and ear/eye protection is a good gift too. Walmart has them for cheap.


Upgrades like night sights from Trijicon would be good on a carry gun. A good holsters and a proper gun belt are essentials as well.

This answer assumes 1) you want a few knives to cover different uses and 2) you can dig in the couch cushions for $3.53 or you can wait for Amazon's prices to fluctuate just a little bit. The price on the Kershaw jumped $3 just while I am typing this up...

EDC: Kershaw Blur, $54.17. I'm a little goofy, and I like the serrated tanto even though it looks like ass. I assume for most people, they'd prefer the straight blade. I've had one for a few years, and it works great. Just the right size, comfortable grippy handle, and I love the opening mechanism.

Camping knife: Condor Tool and Knife Bushlore 4.375-Inch Drop Point Blade, $36.41. The QA on fit and finish is apparently an issue with this company, but I didn't notice any problem on mine. It's not going to win a beauty competition, but its a hard worker. One of the comments on Amazon says it's the AK-47 of the knife world. I'm inclined to agree.

Inconspicuous Folder: Opinel #8, $12.95. I don't actually own one of these, so caveat emptor, but they come highly recommended by the hive mind. It's a classy looking folder that you could carry around in your suit's jacket pocket or your briefcase.

I use "3M Peltor X-Series Over-the-Head Earmuffs". They work great, they're comfy, and $30.

• When I shoot outdoors, I use the X4A (Chartreuse, 27dB).
  
• When I shoot indoors, I use the X5 (Black, 31dB) or X4A with 3M Classic Earplugs, medium size.
  
• When I'm working on turbine engines, I use the foamy ear plugs and/or MSA HPE Cap Mounted Earmuff. (In case you want a hard hat mounted option.)
  
  ​
  
  I've tried a bunch of different earpro options. The most important thing is that the muffs seal around your ears... as best they can while wearing safety glasses. I always wear a baseball cap and Smith & Wessson Magnum 3G safety glasses. (Hot .22 brass inside your glasses really sucks.) For ear plugs, most people like the long skinny kind that you roll and stuff into your ear canal. They really bother me, so the only ones I like are the 3M classics. I even had some custom ear plugs made and they did not work at all. (And it's only a matter of time before you lose them.) Also make sure to clean reusable plugs between uses.
  
  ​
  
  I'm not a fan of electronic ear muffs, especially Howard Leight Low Profile. The speakers inside the muffs stand on my ears and they don't seal for crap. One of my buddies was using these and had a terrible flinch. I gave him the X4's his flinch was gone. I haven't tried any of the mid-range electronic ear muffs. The high end MSA Sordins are very nice and pretty effective, but I haven't got around to picking some up yet. The only time you really want electronic muffs is when you're doing a shooting class, and you need to listen to the instructor. (Or for hunting, I suppose.) For general BS'ing during shooting or listening to the Range Safety Officer, I can hear just fine.
  
  ​
  
  Another point about PPE (Personal Protective Equipment), don't take it off! Leave your ear plugs in and your glasses on so you don't lose or damage them. Ear muffs are easy to take off during cease fires.

Sorry for the long wait but here it is

Right strap yourself in this is probably going to be long one. It will help if you have some electronics knowledge and soldering skills. But don't worry if you don't, most of this it very basic, but a bit fiddly.

Also to note this is going to be based around the Kenwood style connector, this is what you find on most BeoFeng radios. If your radio uses a different type then you'll have to do some reverse engineering to find the pin out of that, you may find getting a speaker mic that useful for this, as they normal have a PCB inside thats labelled.

​

Parts list:

- Howard Light Impact Sports

- Antlion modmic 4 without mute

- 3.5mm audio Aux cable (length dependent on your setup, also get one with rubber insulation rather than a braided sleeve,it will only give you more problems later on)

- Wire strain reliefs (the correct size for your Aux cable & Kenwood Cable, I belive that I use 4mm)

- Zip ties

- Belt spring clip + screws and nuts to mount (Just M3 pan head screws & nuts will do, the included poppers are crap)

- Momentary on button

- Small electronics box

- Speaker mic or anything that has a compatible connector for your radio (I used a BaoFeng speaker mic as the kenwood connector is used on my rectervis radios).

- Breadboard

- wire

​

This will come to about £100 so it's defiantly cheaper to go with a reproduction unit, but I had a lot of these parts already and its a fun project.

First take a set of Howard Lights and pop off the black plastic piece that holds the foam padding over the driver on the side that has the 3.5mm aux socket.

Next cut a notch in the main body for the mic to sit in and and not block the black plastic piece. cut the wire on the mic down to size so that would reach the 3.5mm Aux socket but so you could still move it about to make soldering easier .

Then strip the insulation to expose the wires on the mic, these are excessive thin and have a coating on them that you will need to strip. I advise that you practice on the off cut so that you get a feel for it a few times as you don't want to find your mic wire being too short.

On the Aux socket you'll have 3 wires attached to that, ground(black), left audio & right audio(red & white, I never bothered to figure out which was which) . Desolder one of the audio wires and solder it on to the other. This means that any audio from the Aux socket will play through both ears but will only be a mono signal, which for this will be fine for us as the audio from the radio is mono anyway,and this won't affect the sound pass through of the headset.

​

**you're going to need a multi meter for this bit**

If you didn't know already audio jacks are normal spilt in to 3 or 4 sections these are called TRS & TRRS respectively, we should be dealing with the 3 sections kind, they are spilt up in to the Sleeve(S), Ring(R ) & Tip(T), inventive right.

A Kenwood connector is made up of 2 TRS jacks 1 3.5mm & 1 2.5mm. Fortunately I've done the hard work of figuring out how the pins are wired:

​

||2.5mm|3.5mm|
|:-|:-|:-|
|T|Speaker||
|R||Mic|
|S|Ground|Push To Talk|

You will need to check how you've wired your Aux port to know what wires need to go were, just plug in your Aux cable and do a continuity check for the tip and ring and the sleeve will be ground. For me I had the Mic wired to the Ring and the Speaker wired to the Tip.

Here is what my wiring layout looked like.

You want to strip down the insulation on the Kenwood cable and reveal the wires and find out what colour wires are which. You also want to measure out how long you need to leave your 3.5mm Aux wire and not cut it down to size leaving enough slack for your head to move and enough length of wire to solder and strip back the insulation and test to find out which wires are linked to which.

Now once you have figure out what colour wires are which you want to cut down a section of breadboard to the right size, if your a bit of a novice with a soldering iron, you will probably want to cut a larger section as it will make things easier for you. Then just solder all the wires on to the correct place, just to note it doesn't matter which way round the push button is soldered on. and you'll end up with something that looks a bit like this

Now you can just zip tie the ends of the wires inside of the box to stop them from popping out and move the point of stress to the insulation of the wire rather than on the solder joints.

I would suggest doing a continuity test from jack to jack to ensure that nothing is shorting (wrong point to point) and that everything is connected to were it should be.

We should be good now to plug it all together and give it a test, it should all be working, you should be receiving audio in both ears of the head set, and when the push button is depressed you should be transmitting from the microphone.

Once your happy with that and only when, cover all your solder joints with a bit of hot glue to again stop anything from bouncing around and causing a short on it, in particular on the Aux port on the head set and the breadboard. we also want to fix the microphone in place with some hot glue and make sure the hole is filled so no water can get in. I also added some foam to the headset just it increase the noise deadening effect.

all done, you should have something that looks a bit like this also I have seen a video on youtube that shows you how to add rail mounts to them so you can mount them on a helmet which I haven't tried yet but will be soon hopefully

Full Album Of Reference Photos

Congrats on starting the journey that is bushcraft and woodsmanship. It's such a rewarding pastime. Since you seem to be loading up on gear I have on huge piece of advise for you. I beg you BEG YOU to invest a little bit of money on a good belt knife. Nothing to fancy. Some thing like an Old Hickory butcher knife or a good quality Mora . Both are relatively inexpensive and quality products. When I started out I bought a cheap "survival knife" which wasn't worth the cardboard packaging it came in and then eventually upgraded to the Bear Grylls ultimate survival knife which promptly broke after about 3 overnights of use. Budget bushcraft is fine for most things however spending 15 dollars on a mora you will have to replace MAYBE every 3 or 4 years if you take care of it certainly beats spending 10 dollars 3 or 4 times a year on junk. Good luck and remember... in the famous words of Ray Mears "If you're in the woods and you're 'roughing it' you're doing something wrong"

The bottom line is, all of these safes are designed to keep honest people honest. A determined crook will be able to get your guns, no matter what you store them in.

Your best bet would be to get the best safe that you can afford, then figure out a way to make it invisible. Thieves won't try to break into your safe if they don't see it.

I have 2 handgun safes. One is this one. It's bolted to a heavy nightstand, 2 feet from my head while I sleep. There is only a gun in it while I'm asleep. Its whole job is to keep my gun out of my 2 year old daughter's hands while I sleep, yet give me pretty quick access if I need it.

My big safe is bolted into the concrete floor in my unfinished basement, hidden behind a false wall that I created from 2x4's and plywood. If you didn't know it was there, you'd never find it.

Here is what would use for $100 USD. All prices are via Amazon/Wal-mart

Pack: OutLander Lightweight Day Pack - Cheap, Lightweight and would get the job done for a GHB ($18)

Cutting: Morakniv Companion - Cheap and Mora makes some of the best knives ($12)

Combustion: Storm Matches ($6), All-weather matches($0.75), 2 Bic Lighters($2), and some Wetfire($6)

Cover: 3 Emergency Blankets($2)

Container: Back pack listed above, 6 bottles of water ($3), Single layer stainless steel bottle($7)

Cordage: 100 Feet of 550 ($6), Duct tape ($3)

Candlelight: 2 LED Lights ($4-12)

Consumables: 6 Cliff bars ($6), 3 %-Hour Energy ($6), Bag of trail Mix ($6)

Clothing: 2 Extra Pair of socks ($2), 2 pair Gloves ($7), 2 Hats ($10)

Communication: 3 Road Flares ($6) Signaling Mirror ($3)

Cash: $40-100 is recommended but this is optional.




Everything I have there (Cash excluded) should cost around $120. You can save money by making your own Wetfire with cotton balls and petroleum jelly. And the food can probably be replaced with cheaper items. I just put stuff I am comfortable with. Same is true with the flashlights, you could grab 4 of the $1
Wal-mart lights they are great for short term use and would cut out another $8.

Buy stuff in bulk when it is available too this will cut down cost.

Something every car should already have, but it worth the extra $10-20 is a small first aid kit or 2.

The man that sharpens my knives locally, explained to me that all dish washing detergents have abrasives in them to clean your dishes better. Abrasives are bed for a keen edge. Personally I have been using
Morakniv Companions as steak knives. I chose these knives because my buddy who is a survival instructor and search and rescue personnel swears by them for anything, outdoors or indoors. The blade lasts forever and the edge on the carbon steel lasts longer than stainless because carbon steel is harder. I bought three and they are pretty amazing. They are carbon steel, so they will acquire their own amazing colors as you use them.

EDIT: Find them here: http://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1408767946&sr=1-1

Did you notice the part where they have microphones that amplify all the sounds that aren't gunshots? Howard Leight makes a set like that, but they're fifty bucks. The set you linked aren't really comparable.

That said, the $50 HL set are pretty good. I'd recommend some foam ear plugs and cranking the amplification all the way up. You can hear people talk and feel pretty safe about your hearing.

If you go up to $30-40 you can find a lot of great american made knives in that range like a Kershaw Skyline ($35), Salvo ($30), or Buck 110 Paperstone ($30) Classic ($35), Vantage Avid ($34)
BTW, a good pocket clip shouldn't be uncomfortable in your hand. None of the pocket knives I've owned have dug into my hand at all. The Buck is a nice option if you don't want a clip though.

Oh for sure! What's your price range?

For under 40$ some great options would be the Kershaw Leek , the Kershaw Cryo (the Cryo II is a bit larger for almost the same price if you prefer) or anything Kershaw really. You could also look for Sanrenmu knives, they're good for the price.

If you're really serious and you're looking for better quality, I recommend the Spyderco Delica (smaller), the Spyderco Endura (larger) or the Benchmade Griptilian (mini or full size, your choice). I own a mini Griptilian and I love it, I really recommend it if you can justify the price.

I'll second /u/super_octopus 's post! I've got the Sharpmaker and it works great for all my knives, from my Buck 505 with a 1.875" blade to my custom Bowie and Kukri both with over 6" blades. The system is pretty affordable (under $60).

Alternately I've heard really good things about the Lansky system, either the three stone or five stone sets, both of which are even more affordable (under $40).

I've also got a few diamond coated whetstones for freehand sharpening, which work great too, but you just have to be prepared to go slow at first and learn how to hold your blades at the proper angles and sharpen them evenly. DMT makes some good diamond coated whetstones.

So definitely watch a few youtube videos, read the sidebar guide /u/super_octopus pointed out to you, and if you're still unsure on technique, once you get something to sharpen your knives with, try to practice first with some old beater knife or cheap blade that you might not mind having to sharpen a little extra in case it takes you a while to get it right.

Blade steel is fine for an EDC, and handle material looks close to G-10, which I would say is the best handle quality for grip. 3 inch blade, looks like it can be opened one handed from thumb stud.

Before making a purchase, check out the cheaper brands from Spyderco and Kershaw, they have $25 EDCs on sale, with same or better quality blade steel.

Here's a few that might be worth a look:

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Onion-Chive-Pocket-Knife/dp/B0009VC9RW/ref=pd_sim_sg_4

http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Ambitious-Black-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B004MMSDHO/ref=sr_1_10?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1313769769&sr=1-10

http://www.amazon.com/Magnum-Folder-Black-Handle-Blade/dp/B0017KTOV8/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1313769793&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-31-000674-MP450-Compact-Paraframe/dp/B003LY43FA/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1313769825&sr=1-5

Good luck with your purchase :)

I found a shallow one off of Amazon. Also found the black plastic tray I've heard mentioned, but the shipping on that thing is non-trivial to make it worthwhile. Looks just about perfect for the ship upgrades though.

I'm thinking one of those plastic boxes might be good enough for now. Surely it'd be better than throwing a bunch of these tiles in plastic bags.

If I remember, /u/ProdigyLightshow is a huge fan of kases so he would give some good insight. My friends who use them like them, click responsiveness is particularly good for conjuring and color changing easily so it might be directed towards a style. And for the lights shape, I switched from eDot to micromax recently (long story, but I don't usually use eDots :P) and it still felt weird and bulky. So it might just be an adjustment thing. If not, grab some micromax as well. All cases are pretty cheap anyways.

With your storing problem, you might want to invest in a box such as a fishing box or small storage box with separate containers. This is the one I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E39T50/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Essentially, it'll help keep your collection organized as well as helping store lights so they don't get pressed on or anything. I've also heard keeping gloves in hard shell eye glass cases work well too.

Sure! Here is what I originally started with. It works great once I have an edge, but setting the edge took a lot of time on really dull knives so I bought this extra coarse diamond hone. I love it, it sets my bevel in minutes so I can go back and finish the edge with the fine stones. For a few extra bucks, you can buy the whole diamond set. I would also recommend getting the mount so you can safely attach it to a workspace.

And finally, I learned how to use the system from Aaron Gough in his video here

You get used to friction folders, but I understand your concerns. If you want a locking knife if would forget about them. Making it a locking folder is a pretty extensive mod.

It's something totally different, but the Ontario Rat 2 is a pretty popular knife over here. It locks, has good steel and is pretty affordable. But it doesn't have the looks of a higonokami.

Are those skull candy in-ear headphones?...sonic defenders are pretty great but normal foamie ear pods work better, whichever generic flavor you prefer (on a sound decibel level that is, but not for reuse) personally I love the impact sports ear muffs as they can let you hear range commands/whats going on around you while providing protection. Im sure you already know that though/for those looking into improving ear pro its something often over looked

I love my small forest axe. Best survival purchase i've made. I wouldn't stray from that idea, unless you decide to refurbish an antique hatchet. I've seen people fix up sixty year old plumb scout hatchets to gransfors quality.

For knives, i use my moraknive survival and the condor bushlore. The bushlore a hardy-ass knife and it's only about thirty bucks. I use the mora regularly. That particular one is what i have, i picked it up based on the thickness of the blade, but they have far cheaper ones if you don't want to throw down that much. I believe you can get an almost identicle knife without the firesteel for around 15 bucks cheaper.
Good Review on the bushlore

Machete-wise, i love my Condor Parang. It's giant, it sharpens well, it holds an edge, and it's tough as nails. The thing is 1/4 inch thick. It's big. It also comes with a sexy leather sheath of equally high quality and durability.
I've also played around with the full size bear grylls Parang by gerber. Thing cuts like you wouldn't believe, with great weight length and balance. I use the condor, my survival bud uses the gerber. They're about equal in different ways.

For storage I highly recommend this Plano case. I then have a roll of packing foam to help further protect my ships. I also use some of the leftover plastic packaging that the X-Wing models cam in as dividers to hold things like templates and such. That box will hold a massive amount of ships and everything else that goes with the game, for a long time I even kept my Armada collection in the same box. I also use a separate card storage box, but that's only really necessary if you have a very large collection.

For accessories a set of acrylic movement templates are very nice to have, but are hardly necessary as the cardboard ones hold up pretty well for a while. I've gotten two sets from Curled Paw Creatives and highly recommend them!

On my backup gun I run this Pinty reflex sight. It's cheap and gets the job done. The adjustable brightness is a nice touch if you're playing in a dark/light environment.

On my main gun I run the Bushnell TRS-25. Definitely the best bang for your buck. Great construction and a super clear and sharp reticle.

My husband maintains that karate is very effective. There are various styles. Researching them for yourself would be most beneficial. I studied Tae Kwon Do and some shotokan, which is good for my body type because I have horrid upper body tone, though i have tried bulking up before, BUT I also have very strong legs. TKD is a lot of kicks, though some is for show. I think the main thing I liked about my husband's school was that they taught what to do when you lose the upper hand and have to grapple, as well as what to do when you have your feet under you. I can't for the life of me remember the style he learned, but the school was Hsin Lu Dao... I'm fairly certain it was shotokan and go ju. He says the grappling was more jiu jitsu... multiple schools tend to cover multiple bases. It isn't exactly comfortable at first, but it does eventually become ingrained as reflexes. Husband says shotokan schools are becoming more and more tournament centered, so it's probably worth shopping around for an academy.

The keychains I picked up at an armory the last time my dad went in for ammo. Mine is black, but it looks like this one

It fits decently in your hand. And it burns like a bitch, because I have had some on my hands and rubbed my face on accident before. I wouldn't recommend that particular experience. The main thing is to make sure that you don't put your finger over the spray when you push. Haven't used, have practiced. I don't think it'd be good for more than a couple of bursts, though the packaging says something like 20.

For $200 I recommend this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AWB3DIM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

for $20 I recommend this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y3SZEJC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I own both, and so far both have been reliable, you'd think the $20 one would be a POS but it is surprisingly well built. And if you aim it at a mirror in dim light the red dot in the scope is almost impossible to see... meanwhile, the Votex one is very obvious, almost like you're pointing a laser towards someone, so for stealth the cheaper one is better. But for build quality and toughness I am guessing the Votex is superior.

Haven't used them with big guns, but the Howard Leight Impact Sports are pretty good.

Just got them, and in the past two times I've gone they're okay. I like doubling up with my in-ears in and the muffs overtop.

Just remember, your hearing isn't going to get any better, so going overkill on protection isn't a terrible thing.

I really really like a $13 Mora. Rugged, sharp as heck, solid...so cheap you don't feel bad really really using it and beating the piss out of it. A real been-there-done-that guy I know recommended them to me and after using one (and having lots of other fixed blades, I truly love it)
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Military-4-1-Inch/dp/B004TNWD40
They make a serrated also:
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Bushcraft-Serrated-4-3-Inch-Stainless/dp/B00K70MLK0/ref=sr_1_10?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1509940703&sr=1-10&keywords=mora+black


If I was going to pick anything maybe one of these:
http://www.jayfisher.com/USAF_Pararescue_Knives.htm

This with an aftermarket sheath:
https://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Snody-Handle-Included-Purple/dp/B00ILFNAYY


Actually what am I smoking. This: 100x this. If you've held it in your hand you know that it is the most comfortable knife I've ever held.

http://www.benchmade.com/bushcrafter-family.html

Although the Busse I'm evaluating now is pretty dope.... I still want a Benchmade Bushcrafter.

If it was for overall survival/utility I'd want a Himalayan Imports Khukuri.

For Search/Rescue specifically... give me a tanto-point, combo-edge...honking chunk of steel.
https://www.topsknives.com/knives/tactical/tops-pry-knife-ppp-tool
https://www.topsknives.com/knives/survival/smoke-jumper

Could be persuaded to try these
http://www.benchmade.com/fixed-blade-knives.html?blade_style_shape=861

something stupid and overbuilt (in the best way)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Axt6pJERJ38

1. First off, Get one of these to hold your spare parts and tools
   http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23600-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E39T50/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1408405176&sr=8-3&keywords=plano+storage+box
   
   
2. Get a set of Hex Screwdrivers. Just search amazon or your preferred online or local hobby shop.
   
   
3. RPM A-Arms. Those were the first things I broke on my Slash 4x4. They're about $10 for a set of 2 and you'll want to upgrade them all eventually.
   
   
4. If you're off-roading, get extra spur gears because a rock will eventually get in there and chew it up.
   
   
5. Miscellaneous set of hex screws and extra body clips.
   
   As for a charger and Lipo battery;
   I have a Duratrax Onyx charger. Not sure of the exact model. There are better more expensive ones, but this one gets the job done.
   
   I just ordered batteries from here http://spcracingbatteries.com/
   Only ran them once, but I've heard plenty of good things about them.
   
   I'm sure some others will chime in and give you some advice. Good luck and have fun with your new rc car!

Everyone here seems to be recommending whetstones, which is fine (great in fact), but I figured I'd post about an alternative to that.

I personally use the Lansky system, which has pros and cons relative to a set of nice stones but is perfectly fine for a single college student like myself, because it's cheap, easy-to-use, basically foolproof, and gives your knife-edge a very steady angle.

Pictured

On the left is my first long gun, a Ruger American Rimfire model 8301. It has a Simmons 3-9x32 scope on an Evolution Scope Base. It currently has no other mods. I've considered dropping in the Timoney trigger, but I feel like this firearm is AOK in the current configuration. This was the second time I have fired the RAR with the scope on it. The first time was about a week ago where I shot it off of bags to get it zeroed in. Today, I shot standing/unsupported. That was a challenge. I loaded 5 rounds at a time. I learned that doing an upper body workout a few hours before going to the range can make a light firearm feel really heavy. I think I'm going to try using the higher comb cheek riser to see if I can get a more consistent cheek weld without having to contort my neck so much. My focus this range visit was shooting with both eyes open, and getting as consistent groups as I could. I fired 50 rounds of CCI Blazer. Now it makes sense to me why people shoot prone, use a monopod, or a bipod. Shooting off hand made me realize how much I move when firing. It was a great training experience that will carry over to how I shoot my other firearms.


On the right is my most recent long gun (I picked it up yesterday), a bone stock Ruger PC Carbine model 19101 (non-treaded barrel with 10 round magazine version). This was my first range visit with the PC Carbine. I was extremely excited to get some range time with this one. Prior to this, I had only fired: .22LR, 12 gauge, and .223 from long guns. The .223 was when I took a rifle course at Sig Sauer Academy (loaner MCX).

First Impressions of the PC Carbine

To me, it had all the fun of shooting a 10/22 with a bigger boom.

I was skeptical about trying to use ghost ring sights. I have horrible eye sight, and could not get a sight picture with Tech Sights on a 10/22 to save my life. However, these were really easy to use. I'm going to wait a while before trying it with a red dot sight.

Recoil was fine. It is a 9mm, so it was not bad by any stretch.

Trigger feels pretty good to me as far as break and pressure. If an aftermarket company releases a metal trigger (the actual trigger component), I'd strongly consider adding that.

The only thing that felt a bit odd was the magazine release. I'm going to add the Taccom one.

The surprising thing to me was that it would fit in a cheapie bag that I picked up for my shotgun. So, I'm not planning on picking up a specific bag for this firearm anytime soon.

I'm on the fence about magazines for this thing. Pmags for Glocks are pretty cost efficient compared to the cost of the Ruger SR9 mags. So, I have some research to do.

Eventually, I'll throw a picture of my three Rugers up on here.

Not pictured is my Ruger 10/22 Sporter model 1102. I have made some tweaks to it. So far, it has the Ruger BX Trigger, Volquartsen auto-bolt release, extractor, and then I just got in the Surestrike firing pin and bolt handle. It has the same scope that I put on the American Rimfire but on a Monstrum rail. I still need to zero in the scope for this one.

​

Good idea but do keep in mind that different steels respond very differently to the stone. Really cheap steel will usually be quite soft, maybe even too soft to properly sharpen without it "smearing" or rolling over.

Maybe start with flea market junk, but consider something like a $20 Kershaw Cryo as an intermediary step. Its a lot better steel and will give you good practice, but if you really booger it up and can't fix it, you're only out $20.

On the other hand, if you find you can properly maintain the edge on that Cryo you'll have no problem with just about anything else you want to try, plus you've got a really good entry-level folder as well!

For shooting I recommend these two hear protection options. You don't need both but with both you cover pretty much every situation. From very loud, to a guest shooter to indoor and shooting prone with a rifle.

Over the ear with low level noise amplification | Howard Leight Impact Sport | $47.97 | Amazon

and

In the ear comfortable and cheap | SureFire EarPro EP6 | $13.99 Prime | Amazon

Although maybe not quiet BIFL they are pretty darn close. Both come very very highly rated. Both are loads better than the foam hearing protection.

>You need to come up with a decent (non UTG airsoft shit) rail set up too. Do you actually mount anything beside a VFG? Do you even use a scope?

As far as optics go, I have this BSA 4x30 scope which I have used off and on between my Saiga and my AR15. I also have this Eotech XPS2, and this Bushnell TRS-25 red dot came in the mail today. The Eotech mainly stays on my AR, but I am excited to try out the TRS-25 on my Saiga - I've heard these work well. The Soviet style side mount hasn't worked well for me (mainly because the mount I bought was a piece of crap), so I was looking for something I could mount further forward.

As far as UTG goes, I understand there is a lot of resentment towards their company - but it seems just like the same type of blind resentment people have against Sigmas and Taurus'... People hate on things they've never tried or owned. I'm not saying that's the case with you, but it is with a lot of people. Leaper's / UTG is most definitely not an airsoft exclusive company, the majority of their products are geared for hunting/real steel shooting (real steel/hunting scopes, mil-spec buffer tubes, charging handles, rifle furniture, things that wouldn't work on airsoft guns/only work on real firearms, etc...). Although Leaper's (UTG) makes Airsoft accessories and items, the Saiga 7.62 quadrail is made for real steel firearms. I'm not even sure if anyone out there even makes a Saiga 7.62 airsoft gun?

I just have to ask you: have you even tried the UTG quadrail? I can understand hating on a company cause they've been branded as airsoft only but... you should really give it a chance before you knock it. It's light, it's sturdy, and it stays put. What else could be asked for in a rail? It's so tight, it hasn't budged a fraction of a millimeter since I put it on 3 years ago.

>Several good companies make Ace style stocks and once you have an internal ace adapter in place, you can mount all sorts of stocks, for example, mount a Magpul CTR stock and have it fold to either side. You will just never be able to go back to a standard AK stock.

>Also, this company makes decent AK folding mechanisms, which don't require you to cut the "tang" and are still nice and low profile:

>http://www.bonesteelarms.com/Saiga_c7.htm

I would love a CTR stock and one of those AR stock adapters, those look awesome. Forgive me for being forward here, but I just can't see myself anytime soon dropping $200-$300 on a stock & adapter for a rifle that originally cost me $250. I would love to do it, if I had the funds though. You can clearly see I made / converted this rifle on a budget :D

No problem.

Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)

Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)

Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)

Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)

Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)


Here is one above your price range

And one below your price range

I just put a leapers utg bug buster on my rifle. Fantastic scope and more advanced features than you'd expect for less than a bill. Illuminated reticle is also a huge bonus if you use your rifle for dusk hunting of rodents. I can't see using a scope that's more expensive than the rifle. Check out some reviews and videos. I should mention I have a takedown and the length is just right to fit in my bag. I had a simmons before that was waaay to long. Also included are a set of decent qd rings. Imo best value for the money. Went out to shoot it this weekend and it zeroed flawlessly.

UTG 3-9X32 1" BugBuster Scope, AO, RGB Mil-dot, QD Rings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UGIMNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gjMoDb8JQ22M3

It's a great knife for under $30. Strong blade, amazing grip on the handle.

Honestly Im not crazy about the fire starter as I keep plenty in my camping kit, so this will be redundant. But they didn't any Mora's available without it so I bought one anyway.

If you are looking for the fire starter/knife combo than it's great. other wise just get the basic Mora for half the price.

A knife is always a good gift. You can get a fairly nice knife for $30, or a pretty decent knife for $15. If you don't feel like shopping online, you could even pick up a Gerber Mini Paraframe for $10 at Walmart. They're really more affordable gifts than you'd think.

The best part is, they're good gifts for everyone. If they're a knife enthusiast, they'll always be glad for another knife, they can always use a cheap knife as a beater knife. If they've never carried a knife, they'll give it a try and realize how convenient it is.

I gave my girlfriend the Gerber Mini Paraframe after she kept borrowing my knife. She scoffed at first, but tossed it in her purse, a week later she thanked me, saying how often it's saved the day. 3 years later, she still carries it in her purse.

The Condor Bushlore is an inexpensive option, and weighs about 12.3oz. If you're planning on batoning wood with your knife, you'll want it thick enough to withstand the force, and long enough to be able to hit the tip-side of the spine poking out from the other side of the log. Since your budget is a lot higher than that, you might want to shop around for something higher-quality.

Check out the Blind Horse Bushcrafter or Woodsman. Not sure what they weigh, but I'd be happy to lug around the extra weight of one of those beauties.

EDIT: Also note that O1 tool steel rusts very easily. Be prepared to maintain those blades quite a bit. It's very tough, though, and decently easy to sharpen. I read somewhere that, when polled, most knifemakers would choose O1 for their personal blades. It's the same steel as in the Ray Mears Woodlore knife.

If you want a good budget fixed magnification optic, I really like Primary Arms stuff - their prism scopes run around $250-300 and are tough as nails with clever BDC/ranging reticles and pretty good glass.

For budget red dots I like PA, Holosun and Vortex.

If you're just looking for a decent cheap RDS that'll get you shooting and hold zero, the Bushnell TRS-25 can be had for $50 or so and will serve just fine. Add a UTG riser (absolute cowitness / lower 1/3 cowitness) for under $10 and you're in business.

Hi! And welcome!

The Buck Bantam is a fine knife. It is a very good value and will serve you well, I think.

I also agree with the suggestions for the Ontario RAT 1 or 2. The RAT is a spectacular knife value and should do everything you need it to do. And it opens like a greased rocket.

The Condor Bushlore is another great knife in the thirty-forty dollar range. Heavier and more robust than a Mora, but still a pleasant looking, non threatening blade. The leather sheath is a nice bonus too. I love my moras, but i can't help but think of them as a little disposable.

It's tempting to go for the big knives, but in my experience, unless I actually needed the extra chopping power specifically from my knife (for instance, because I couldn't spare the weight or room for a good hatchet or folding saw) big knives just weren't worth the extra weight and bulk because they're a lot harder to use for making feather sticks or any fine work that involved small cuts and even the best big knives don't chop as well as a mediocre hatchet. Case in point: Here's a picture of a log after 10 chops with the tiny (1.2lb) Gerber Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet ($35) and the Ontario RTAK II (~$100) which is supposed to be one of THE BEST chopping knives available.

Even when I traded up from the RAT-5 (which was already a big, bulky knife, to the Becker BK7, I used my Mora a LOT more often than the big knife. Now that I have the ESEE 4, I rarely ever touch the Mora anymore.

That being said, some people genuinely do benefit from the big knives but you're not going to know that until you get some experience. If I were to start over I'd probably get a Condor Bushlore, use the crap out of it, learn how to sharpen it and build the experience to know what kind of knife I actually need.

If you like kershaw you can get a blur with S30v steel for around 65$ on amazon if you still want a kershaw. I've never been too impresed with them since I find their build quality to be lacking. They seem to have an excessive amount of blade play and use average quality steels in most of their knives. The a premium steel that can hold a razor sharp working edge. The spyderco delica/endura line is also a great knife. They have full flat ground blades that come razor sharp from the factory with absolutlely no blade play. I personally carry a green delica as one of my edc knives. The dragonfly is also great if you want a knife that dissapears on your person. it is a featherweight knife, that cuts and handles like a much larger knife.

If you are looking for a knife that can take an absolutely harsh beating, I would have to reccomend an Ontario RAT 1 or 2 depending on you size preference. They are a bit heavy in hand compared to other knives it size, but perform just as good as any of my spydercos. It is also on the cheaper side at around 25$.

The benchmades are also a good choice, but I would also reccomend the benchmade mini-presidio.

Anyways, I thought I might as well just post some links to them:

S30v Kershaw Blur

Benchmade Mini Presidio

[Benchmade Griptillian] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9BOF0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Q6YQ3PL1NNYW&coliid=I1IO3PSF8569TW)

Benchmade Mini Griptillian (I prefer thumb hole openers, but both griptillians also are offered with combo edges and thumb studs.)

Spyderco Dragonfly

Spyderco Delica

Spyderco Endura

Ontario RAT 1

Ontario RAT 2

Always double up. Electronic muffs over earplugs.

Not only do you get better protection, but crank the muff volume up and you can hear basically normally and enjoy how funny everyone else sounds talking with earplugs in.

Howard Leight Impact Sports are only $36 at Amazon

Buy foam plugs in bulk they're less than $0.10 a pair.

You'd have to be a super mega cheapskate to blow your hearing over saving the cost of 1 box of ammo.

This Guy did - Who knows what would have happened if the knife snapped in half

Granted that is very low probability, but you still might need to rely on your knife to save your life. Even if you never need it, an extra $80 to save your life seems like a good deal for me. And thats ignoring the fact you can get a nice Kershaw for around $30

So honestly, I don't see the point in getting the Sanrenmu...

You might consider the Condor Bushlore, especially if he's just getting into bushcraft, or even at an intermediate level. http://www.amazon.com/Condor-Bushlore-4-375-Inch-Walnut-Leather/dp/B002CC6BPM

Edit: I also agree that the Mora Classic is excellent and at the right price point, but I think the Condor Bushlore is also an excellent value and is in a few ways a step-up from the Mora. Its full tang, larger, and has an excellent leather sheath.

It’s actually a cheap Simmons from Amazon. It surprisingly nice and clear! It feels pretty sturdy as well. It’s an awesome scope for the price!

I use a Lansky sharpener for sharpening my blades: http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376070549&sr=8-1&keywords=lansky

You could alter the filing jig to sharpen the knives too, but it's probably easier and more efficient to get the Lansky sharpener. If you're sharpening knives that have never been sharpened before (like ones you've made) then I recommend going with the diamond Lansky set, as the diamond stones are much faster.

Find something that's heavy at the end, heavier than your rifle, and shoulder it a bunch of times just like you would your rifle. Do this for a few weeks and you'll increase your strength.

As to hearing protection, I recommend doubling up with equipment like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001T7QJ9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DH65RI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll still be able to hear perfectly without doing damage to your ears.

Microstream The clip on mine is different but I think this is the same light. Love it.

Spyderco Tenacious Easily the highest value knife I've ever had/seen. I cut and pry the shit out of stuff with this knife on a daily basis.

You aren't, believe me. About six years ago I decided that I was going to learn to sharpen knives well. Yup. I managed to get a handful of blades passably sharp for routine kitchen work, but not reliably. I got a Lansky sharpening system and that helped to convince me that I am probably mentally deficient. I've made a little progress over the six years, but... only a little.

Keep at it! Eventually you'll be pretty good at it. You'll be really, really old, but... you'll get there. ;)

Sorry guys, I thought this comment would show up but it didn't so here's it again!

Info and such.

Picture one is my work (garrison, not deployed) EDC and picture two is my normal EDC.

1. IPhone 5 with LifeProof case
   
   
   
2. [Fisher Space Pen] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E103CY/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687602&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000095K9D&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1RKGZQWYCXZQTRK0TSEH) (This is my third one, last two flew off.)
   
   
3. Just a normal sharpie
   
   
4. Two diffrent types of Rite in the Rain
   notebooks
   
   
5. Gerber Flick Multi-tool and belt carrying case
   
   
6. Southord Jackknife lock-pick set
   
   
7. Kershaw Cryo knife
   
   
8. CREE LED flashlight
   
   
9. Keys with a TEC P-7, a tritium key FOB, and a 2 GB flash drive
   
   
10. ID tags
    
    
11. A very cheap Armitron sports watch
    
    
12. Carmex
    
    
13. A BIC lighter
    
    
14. Standard ear Protection
    
    
15. Standard tri-fold wallet (will upgrade soon)
    
    
16. Oakley Flak Jacket (These were given to me)
    
    
17. Standard issue gloves (do not buy these)
    
    So I do carry much more stuff with me while I'm working but I'm quick to shed it when I get back to the barracks.
    
    Hope you enjoyed and I'll be happy to answer any questions about my getup!

Day Packs are abundant. There are dozens that fit the 'hydro port' requirement. It really depends on what other features you need. Most specifically - size. You say 'day pack' slash 'one night pack'. In my experience those are 2 very different bags. A day pack is generally 15-30 liters, depending on how much technical gear you plan to carry (or how cold / snowy it gets). An overnight pack is generally 50-65 liters. I warn against picking an overnight pack based on the number of nights you'll be out. 1 night requires the exact same gear as 10 nights, other than food (which is generally 1 liter per person per day). So if you want a day pack, focus on that. If you want a overnight pack, focus on that. Trying to get 1 that does both jobs well will end up awkward both ways.

• Day: https://www.osprey.com/us/en/product/talon-22-TALON22_669.html
  
• Overnight: https://www.osprey.com/us/en/product/atmos-ag-50-ATMOS50S18_334.html
  
  ​
  
  Mora is a classic fixed blade bushcraft knife. Quality and cheap. $14
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-4-1-Inch-Military/dp/B004TNWD40
  
  ​
  
  Sleeping Bags are another BIG category. The most important factor is temp rating. What low temp do you plan to sleep in? 20F is what I normally recommend for the vast majority of campers. It will keep you comfortable down to freezing temps, which is when most people stop going out. You can open it up for warmer weather. If you'll only be out in summer conditions - a 40F bag is even better (cheaper, lighter, smaller). A quilt is another option compared to a traditional mummy bag. Once I went to a quilt for 3-season trips I never went back. Make sure you have a good sleeping pad too, you need insulation under your body.
  
  
• https://enlightenedequipment.com/revelation-quilts/
  
  This deal was posted yesterday, a steal at $90: https://www.campsaver.com/kelty-cosmic-20-sleeping-bag-600-dridown.html
  
  ​
  
  Life Vests from NRS are quality. I like mine.
  
  They also make a knife that attaches to the PFD. Mine is perfect.
  
  
• https://www.nrs.com/category/2547/life-jackets/
  
• https://www.nrs.com/category/2726/whitewater-kayaking/knives-tools

I started wearing [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-R-01526-Electronic-Earmuff/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417815860&sr=8-1&keywords=howard+leight+impact+sport) last year and love them.

They have volume control so I don't have to worry about being able to communicate with other hunters and they allow you to actually increase your hearing volume if necessary (can hear passing birds better with them on). As soon as you shoot, they limit the sound to 82 dB. Really a great option and they are not bulking. Added benefit is that they help keep your ears warm on cold days.

I have a 10/22 paired with this cheap Simmons scope. I am very happy with the setup. It's clearly not a top of the line scope but after dialing it in it holds well and has served its purpose pretty well for me. Should be good enough for the kids.

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335807629&sr=8-1

finish off with

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Super-Sapphire-Polishing-Hone/dp/B000B8IEB8/ref=pd_sim_sg_2

If you find yourself sharpening a lot of different knives you'll want

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Coarse-Diamond-Accessory-Silver/dp/B001KN3OTK/ref=acc_glance_sg_ai_ps_t_3

it moves the steel faster (for changing the edge the first time) and the stone holds up longer.

Long story short, it gives perfect consistency and has the super fine stones for giving that polished razors edge. It makes sharpening anything UNDER 6" a dream.

For knives LARGER than 6" I use

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/sanders/1-inch-x-30-inch-belt-sander-2485.html

with various ceramic belts from

http://www.trugrit.com/belts1.htm

It's also GREAT for doing convex conversions. Doing a flat grind on a concave edge takes a steady hand or a jig.

Practice on wood and scrap steel. You'll RUIN a blade in a HURRY with those coarse belts.

If the blade gets hot it will burn the steel and you will lose it's hardness. Dip it in cool water, dry with a towel, often. The tip is the most delicate part. Only grind for a second or two, then dip again.

i might get some flack for this, but i am extremely happy with the [utg 3-9x32] (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005UGIMNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TgFQDbGPDF4NF). the qd rings are great. a stick of loctite (blue stuff) will keep the threads from loosening. be gentle, vortex and leupold fanboys.

>Do I need to get ear protection for a .22? If so, any suggestions?

Yes absolutely. .22 will wreck your hearing. Howard Leight Impact Sports (and ear plugs underneath if you want) are awesome,snd worth every penny of $40. Plus unless you're out inda woods, you're likely going to have other people shooting near you.

>What eye protection is the best? (What do y'all use/what's your favorite pair of goggles)?

I wear $10 Remington's I bought at Cabelas. Just make sure the ear loop thing is flat so it slips under muffs without breaking the seal.

>How long should I wait before getting a scope?

Depends on preference and what you're doing with it. Scopes are not all that necessary on .22's if you have good iron sights like Tech Sights.

>Should I store it vertically? (Corner of a closet)?This is my first gun, so I don't have a safe, would under my bed work? (I did get a case for it)

Doesn't matter. Careful storing guns in cases, the foam can trap moisture and rust the gun over time.

>I'm a first generation gun owner in my family, I'd like to be responsible with firearms, if I missed anything important, please say, I'd love to hear suggestions on how I can be responsible with guns.

Haunt Wikiarms and Gunbot for cheap ammo, set a text alert if necessary.

Tech Sights, Uncle Mikes quick detach sling studs and swivels (you need the 1.25" set of swivels), USGI sling, 3 ten round mags.

Attend an Appleseed event to learn to shoot.

re: thumbstuds. That is where I give cold steel a nod, they make theirs removable, so when putting on a clamp style sharpener you can remove them so they do not get in the way.

But I agree with all this. Honestly, as well a great EDC blade for a low price in your budget that will serve you well, is an Ontario Rat II. They can be had for about $30 - $40 and are amazing budget blades. They are not assisted, but the deployment with the thumbstud are amazing. Well worth a try to purchase one.
http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knives-Model-Folding-Knife/dp/B00BBPAOCW

Good earmuffs will have 20-25dB reduction. Most handguns and shotguns go "bang" in the 160dB region, while 140dB is the general threshold for permanent damage. Note that you can stack hearing protection (wearing -22dB earmuffs over -25dB earplugs will be about -47dB reduction edit it's not additive, but it helps). For general indoor shooting sessions, a single set of -20dB ear pro should be sufficient, you can add more at your option.

The favorite recommendation around here is the Howard Leight Impact Sport. They're compact and slim, have excellent noise reduction, can amplify outside noise while blocking gunshots, and let you pipe in audio using a headphone jack. They're also like $50, which is great since most earmuffs this good cost $300+.

I have a Kellam, Helle is going to be my next puuko addition.

Pretty knife! I've found myself admiring my Kellam more often than using it.

Just as a tip, this knife has lasted me amazingly in the outdoors (I mainly do a lot of fishing and camping) and complements my wood-handled Kellam rather nicely for wet environments! Anyways, great gift.

Here are my personal essentials.

• Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  
• Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  
• Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  
• Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  
• Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  
• Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  
• Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.
  
  Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.
  
  P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.

I really like my Kershaw Cryo. Very inexpensive (<$25 online) and a great size for EDC. The blade is easy to maintain and came from the factory with an excellent edge on it.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1555TI-SpeedSafe-Folding-Knife/dp/B0074FI28Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417308519&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+cryo

It also has an adjustable pocket clip and speed-safe assisted opening which is a nice feature in a relatively inexpensive knife.

I'm in IT as well and perform very similar tasks. I use the Spyderco Tenacious for everything. It's easy as hell to sharpen and the flat ground blade takes a wicked sharp edge. It has stainless steel liners, but they're skeletonized so the knife is still pretty light. The G-10 is nicer than the stuff I've got on knives that are well past the hundred dollar price point.

As for draw speed, you can do a bootleg wave using zipties. Here's mine. Best $30 I've ever spent.

Everyone answering in here will give you a different way to go. You need to find what works for you. The biggest thing to think about in field vs home is, how long will you be in the field? If its for a weekend, then personally, I dont even bring a stone with me. I wipe down the blade before sheathing it, and I worry about it when I get home.

Now, I was raised by my dad (hunter) to treat your knives like you treat your guns when it comes to cleaning. When you get home, you do a full inspection, cleaning and sharpening. For the carbon knives, I use gun oil (Remington spray, yellow and green can). Spray it down, clean it up with a cotton towel, if there are spots, then put more oil on and rub (with the grain) it down with medium to light pressure using the RED scrubbie. Not the green, they are too abrasive, and the red ones have anti-rusting compounds. You can do the same for the stainless, you just wont need the scrubbies as often. If you are not going to use your carbon knives for a while (more than a month) then wipe it down with denatured alcohol to remove the oil, then put a coat of turtle wax (from the tub, not the bottle) and leave it sit. Do not store either in their sheathes, especially if the sheath is leather. Condensation is killer.

Then, before you head back out in the woods, do a check of the knife and a good cleaning and coat of oil (wiping excess off). Check for nicks, burs, folds, rusting and treat as necessary. It is really the same as for firearms. You cant clean them too often, and must clean after every use.

If you will be in the woods for an extended period of time, bring some oil and a couple different grit stones to hone while out. I use a Lansky 5-stone kit both at home and throw it in the kit now. Got a great demo and tutorial this past weekend with it, and it really works well with practice.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8IEA4

Treat even your cheap knives like firearms when it comes to maintenance and they will last much longer than expected.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002CC6BPM/ref=pd_aw_lpo_200_tr_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GR55ZR4H7T6DHD4B2NBN
Love this knife, great craftsmanship and just feels nice. Totally worth the 55$. Just keep the blade clean and wipe off any debris (it's best to oil it).

No.

But if you want one that just works, the red only Fieldsport on Amazon is great at $20.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3SZEJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-gUdBbBPA0SJ9

Next step up but still budget would be a Bushnell TRS-25. Less glass tint, and all around better quality for $50.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00200E0HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4hUdBbX0PJ5FY


Youll want this riser with either one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TX2BD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RiUdBbFKT6JE1

If you eventually want a quality real steel Optic, look for the Vortex Strikefire, Vortex Crossfire red dot, Vortex SPARC AR, or the Sig Romeo 5. All can be had for about 120 if you shop around. Vortex optics have fantastic warranties.

If you want some magnification, i eecommend the monstrum 3x prism sight. Let it be known though, that the sight adjustments work in reverse.

https://monstrumtactical.com/products/3x-ultra-compact-prism-scope-black?variant=6824042168366