(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best spray paint

TL;DR -- I did not use a primer, and I did completely paint the inside and outside of both panels. No fitment issues, only issue due to extra thickness from the paint was the screws struggling a little bit during re-installation.

Satin Black

Satin Clear

Those are the paints I used. I did not use a primer. I went with satin on both because I was after a matte look like the main black body on the stick. I didn't want them glossy like the original white panels. I did paint the entire surface of the panels. The only thing I noticed was the screws struggled a little bit during re-installation but that was to be expected and really wasn't an issue. I didn't and haven't noticed any other fitment issues from the paint.

For preparation, all I did was wash the panels to remove any dirt/oils and then used the finest sandpaper I had on hand to sand/scuff up both panels to help the paint stick better.

If I remember correctly, I did two (maybe three? sorry it was a while ago) coats of each the black paint and the clear top coat. You will want to spray a good distance away from the panel you're painting, at least 8-10 inches, and nice smooth motions, you kind of want the paint to fall onto the panel lightly, if that makes sense. It helps to avoid runs and imperfections.

I used a paper clip in the screw holes to help me manipulate and hold the panel up as I was spraying so I avoided finger prints and also keep it propped up during drying so it didn't stick to the cardboard box I was using. Between coats check the entire panel for runs or clumps and if there are any, wet-sand those areas smooth with the finest grit sandpaper you have before you apply the next coat.

Once I was satisfied with the look/finish, I let it dry for 72 hours. I just wanted to be sure that everything was DRY before securing them back on the stick. Obviously, you can still use the stick during this, it just looks weird without the panels.

Doing it this way was not 100% ideal or correct I'm sure, I'm not a painter and haven't had much experience with it to be honest. There are one or two imperfections, which I suppose I could wet-sand and repaint, but I don't notice them. They are small, and i don't feel like doing that process again for one or two small imperfections. I am very happy with the look and outcome of the little project and happy I did it. They look so much better black than they did white.

Hopefully this post is of some help. Good luck, you will be very happy you did it. It is worth it, the stick looks so much better.

GW sprays have a very high cost, and people have had numerous complaints about how runny they are.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470015a&prodId=prod1200064

It's always been suspicious that GW is very reluctant to ever call their sprays "primer" even though that's the advertised intent of the sprays. They call them "spray paints" and "undercoat", but never primer... even on the bottle itself.

Even more odd is that their sprays used to be labeled "primer". They dropped that ever since they revamped the cans. The White spray they have on their site is an image of the old can, you cannot get sprays that have that labeling anymore:

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470015a&prodId=prod1200062

Again, opinions of course. If you want inexpensive yet good, I've heard good things from Krylon primers:

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-51315-All-Purpose-Interior-Decorator/dp/B001B73WCO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367785170&sr=8-1&keywords=krylon+primer

If you want expensive yet (arguably) great, I use and love Army Painter primers. The nozzle never clogs, and the spray is really really strong and clean. I've found that even when I spray too closely and seem like I've obscured the model details, the paint dries and everything is fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Matte-White-Primer/dp/B004VEO5FM/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1367785212&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=army+painter+primer

Yep, this.

• I do 120 or 150 grit to keep a smooth base so no sanding marks make it through the paint.
  
• Wash with soap and water and let air dry over night before starting to paint.
  
• Get a decent primer that says it works on plastics -- I use Rustoleum primer and it's a general use + plastic primer.
  
• Adhere to your dry times religiously. If it says recoat within 1 hour or after 24 hours, don't cheat that. At all. There's a reason it has them. Spray paint cures in part by having curing chemicals mixed into the paint evaporate. If you spray an extra coat before those chemicals have evaporated much at all, it's fine. If you wait for them to completely evaporate, great, they're gone and the paint is cured. If they're in the process of curing though, you'll mess up the coat beneath. It's awful.
  
• I would also highly recommend a top coat of some kind. I really like Rustoleum Clear Gloss Automotive Enamel It's the toughest top coat I've ever used and offers a glossy finish that's not mirror-sheen glossy like you'd get from Krylon Triple-Thick Glaze Put two light coats, then the last one till it looks nice and wet and it's fantastic. Let it cure for a day or two so it hardens -- full hardness in a week as stated on can.
  
• A single-pass light sanding with 600-grit (450+ would likely work) between base coat and top coat can also help adhesion of the top coat. Just be really light with it. Optional.
  
  Here's my QFR that I painted. It has a fair few process pictures.

Honestly, you already know what you could have done that you didn't. That said, they're pretty good for a first timer. If you're going to paint Reaper minis, priming them is key. I have used the Master Series paints that are designed tip work with the Bones line, and even though Reaper says you don't need to prime, you do. I use their black paint on primer, and I have good results. I wish I had a decent camera to take pics of my work.

Enjoy the hobby, and nothing else. Your free time and money just found a new place to go...

**oh! Nearly forgot. If you decide to go the route of spray on primer, I've used with great results, Krylon primer. Buy it local, it's cheap.

thank you!

It was pretty simple. I used painters tape + an exacto knife to mask the underside, and used two coats of my go-to spray paint.

Blue ring is just as bright as before. I took great care to not directly spray into the crevice, and I think it worked well!

After two weeks, I’ve measure a mean signal loss of 1.2db. In the same timeframe I’ve pushed 6TB of data through it and haven’t noticed a difference.

I’ll most likely be doing this to a few more in the near future and can post a more detailed process with pics, if anyone is interested.

I’m also curious about, and me being me, will likely experiment with aerosol rubber, and vinyl.

I actually just sprayed my Thomas helmet with Rust-Oleum Bright Coat Metallic Finish and, while it didn't come out nearly as good as a chrome would (I wanted to be sure that it would be done by halloween), it does look pretty good. Here's what it looks like with that metaillic spray paint without any sanding which would have done a world of help (don't zoom in too far, I had to crank up the iso since my apartment is so dark, so they're pretty noisy).

Here's the full build album, if you're interested. I've still got a ton more work to do, such as finishing fiberglassing the inside and applying bondo to the outside.

For your first BJD, I'd recommend saving a little longer and buying one with a faceup. A lot of times it can actually end up cheaper than buying all the materials. A lot of sellers have layaway, for example Soom, Denver Doll and Alice's Collections. If you're buying used, some sellers also offer layaway.

If you feel like trying it yourself though, there are lots of tutorials here. You do need sealant (Usually Mr. Super Clear) and special elastic. The elastic is round and very strong, not like elastic meant for sewing. Sometimes really tiny dolls are strung with monofilament, like fishing line. Dolls normally come strung though, so that shouldn't be an issue. Dolls are occasionally sold as kits, but it's not common at all.

I'm not sure why a lot of BJDs look sad; I like to have dolls with a variety of expressions. The great thing about BJDs is that there's so much variety, you can find (or create) any expression you like.

You'll want to use a primer! Don't worry, it took me forever to figure that out. Basically acrylic paint isn't made to stick on plastic, and it'll come off super easy. Primers are paints made to stick on things like plastic. That means that you're coating your model in a material that accepts your acrylic paint better than plastic. You can get primer from any home improvement store, but here's some links to some on amazon. They all work just fine, you just need to make sure it says "primer" somewhere on the can.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249846-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWOS94/

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG/

https://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Colour-Chaos-Primer-Undercoat/dp/B000A5CHHE/

This is how it looks currently. Just replaced the head gasket, rockers, water pump, etc and all that good stuff. I'm gonna paint the trim, bumpers, flares, grill and head light housing, and the thing with the light in it that is over the license plate. I'm also going to remove all the badges and replace them with black ones, including the front "Jeep" badge. However, they don't make a Sport badge like the one I want so it's going to have to be a vinyl decal.

My plan is to take all the trim off, remove reside with goo gone or simple green, sand then clean everything, let it dry and mask it all off with blue tape and brown paper or plastic sheets and go to town on it with a few cans of this. I'll remove the grill and headlight covers and do them separate. As for the red stripe, I'll tape it off and do it with blood red Montana Black spray paint.

Few questions for you guys that did similar jobs already:

• What do I use to seal it?
  
• Do I need automotive sealer?
  
• If so, what brands?
  
• Where is a good place to get new badges (or is it ebay)?
  
  Next upgrades;
  
  
• New front & rear bumpers (suggestions? Don't want a stinger or anything too bulky, needs to have recovery points)
  
• Red LED for the interior dome light
  
• Lund Moon Visor or similar (Polish one on ebay?)
  
• Roof rack (or roof tent?)
  
• Camper conversion? I measured out the cargo and passenger area, after I move my spare I think I'm going to build out a platform and get a memory foam pad so I can camp right in my XJ.
  
  Thanks for reading!

going by what this product page says their clear coat is acrylic based, meaning that in theory putting enamel based products over it should eat it away and ruin your paintjob. However, not all acrylic products are chemically the same. for example Pledge floor care is an acrylic varnish and when applied via aribrush or brush over gunpla it acts as a good gloss coat for the enamel wash.

Your best bet is to go with a lacquer based gloss coat to put your panel line wash over. don't worry as these won't affect your paint underneath as long as your paint has cured. brands that are at the top of my head are tamiya and mr. super clear.

A little late to this, but get some clear spray lacquer https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1906830-Lacquer-Spray-11-Ounce/dp/B0009XCKGA, Home Depot or Lowes will also carry it.

To apply, spray a light coat, dry, 2000+ grit sand paper very light. Repeat 5-10 times. Then use a polish like Novus Plastic Polish -- will only need 2 and then 1 for this use, 3 is for heavy scratches -- https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU to clean up after the last coat.

Glad to answer any other questions

If I do ABS (which I doubt...PETG is fine for what I do) I will vent the fan through the wall into the garage as well as sealing up the cut outs. The fan sucks out the back. For the paint I went with spray cans...2 of this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B73WCO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and three of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ6LYFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It is more of a satin finish than semi gloss which I prefer and I lightly sanded between coats. Thanks for the compliment and happy printing!

For those interested I loosely followed this guide. Getting the rubber coating off was a total bitch but the end result was worth it! Since all I had available was glossy paint I opted for a matte clear to achieve the look I was after. The pain used was Rustoleum 2X Gloss Grape and Rustoleum Matte Clear Coat. I'm happy to answer any other questions about the process as well!

Personally, I use something like this. I have the flat white not the Ultra Matte version, but similar.

​

> Why can you use Chaos Black as a primer, but not Leadbelcher.

For an army like Necrons or Grey Knights, Leadbelcher might be a great choice.

I would probably find a lighter grey metallic for classic Grey Knights, but for the classic Necron color scheme, Leadbelcher would be a great primer. If you're doing lighter colors or have a lot of flesh in your army, I wouldn't use Leadbelcher, since it would be annoying to have to go over those parts with a lot of layers to get good coverage.

There isn't a way to do it without having seam lines, and you, being the one that made it, will always see them. Some people may not notice them for a while, but upon close inspection they will become obvious.

All props that I have made have peen printed, assembled, finished, in that order. If you want to keep the stainless steel pla visible, there isn't really anything I can think to do. In terms of part assembly I trust nothing but Krazy Glue. It dries in about 10 seconds, and another 30 seconds or so and the bond is stronger than the later bonds of PETG, which is known for its layer strength. Absolute nightmare if you mess up. If you do mess up, or are not confident on the seam, separate immediately.

If you're looking to go the painting route then I would assemble it, fill the gaps with some Bondo. Wait for it to dry, sand it flush, use some Filler Primer, then spray paint it. Once painted, cover in a Clear Coat so the paint doesn't rub off.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask and I'll get back to you.

Acryllic paint used. Acryllic colors work best on fabric. This converse sneaker uses canvas fabric.

Steps for the artists over here :D

*Shoes must be brand new or crisp clean before painting*

1. Remove shoe laces. Tape the unwanted areas like the sole border on bottom and the rubber toe part with masking tape to prevent accidental paint drips.
   
   
   [Step 2 is required if your base color of shoe is non white. If it's complete white then you can start painting directly. ]
   
   
2. First apply a base coat of white two times over the complete area you are planning to paint.
   
   
3. After base coat start painting stuff you want like colors and stuff.
   
   4)Paint the leaked edges, borders or mistakes you made while painting by covering them with black acryllic paint again. (black used here since the color of sneaker is black so it hides after drying)
   
   5)Once you're happy with the paint, coat it with a sealent spray 2-3 times to prevent the paint form getting exposed to dirt and stuff. Make sure the sealent has matte finish or you shoes will turn out glossy lol. I used this spray sealent
   
   
   EDIT : Added instruction for white sneakers @ step 2
   
   EDIT : Added sealent spray link.

If you’re looking for a matte sealer, maybe you could try Mr. Super Clear?

It’s a very popular sealant in doll customization, I’ve heard good things:

It’s on amazon

I'm not a master artist, and I like to save money where I can, so I've been using Rust-Oleum Specialty Clear Matte Spray ever since I started, and I've been very happy with the results.

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4

That is what is currently being used. I don't see how this helps all that much to be honest. They have been doing this for years though.

We also handling the boards to much imo. We get them from our supplier then program them, test them, spray them then mount them. Ideally it'd be nice to find a company that could send them 100% complete to us. If you have any recommendations that would also be appreciated.

Quick question, as a complete noobie to Gunpla, I was wondering if these would be the appropriate sprays to use for top coating, both for the gloss, so I could pannel line, and then do the decaling and weathering and obviously then the matte coat.

So would these work for the gloss and matte coats, or are there better options out there. Obviously price isnt to much of an option, as long as its the best bang for the buck.

The first one I've found is the gloss its by Mr.Hobby, called Mr.Super Clear Gloss and the second one was the matte final coat by Tamyia Color called Tamiya Color TS80 Flat Clear

Mine is 22 years old, purchased by my dad new and given to me and still going strong. I work from home so I’m sitting in it 6-10 hours a day 5 days a week. I had to replace the lumbar support bar, the foam pad near the bottom of the seat and the meshing on the seat itself part but otherwise it’s been a dream.

Also, for anyone that has the dark gunmetal gray “base” (is that what it’s called? what the wheels are attached to) the Rust-Oleum in flat metallic soft iron is a perfect match for the factory paint. I have a tendency to put my feet on that part and wear the paint off. Every few years I take it outside and give it a touch up.

I bought this necklace from COS a while back and the gold finish is rubbing off the chain and it's getting a metallic smell. Does anyone have a great solution for this? After about 30 seconds of research I ordered this Krylon spray but I was wondering if anyone knows of a better solution before I spray it down.

Thanks! For the Thomas helmet, I started with a chrome motorcycle half helmet as the base. Then I used chrome (mirror) vinyl to cover the visor and stuff (that's the really shiny part).

The chrome spray paint I used on the ear pieces can be found at any hardware store (rustomleum, krylon, etc.--something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7718830-Bright-Metallic-11-Ounce/dp/B000Z8DGXK)--but it's not as "mirror" like as the helmet or the vinyl. It's more "silver" than chrome.

Hope it helps!

I used fusion black satin and it came out great. Dries super fast.
here

I am looking for a white wireless mechanical keyboard with RGB lighting (I prefer software control for increased customization). I would be aiming for in order of preference TKL > Full > 60% with arrow keys (65%?). I have been surfing some of the resources but the sheer quantity and lack of brand knowledge is daunting so if anyone has time to help that would be amazing.

My current board is BlackWidow Chroma Ultimate 2014 which while I like the RGB and switches, I really don't love the color scheme/massive cord/size.

I'm not extremely concerned with the switch type but I currently use green switches so I believe the non-razer alternative is blue? So blue would be consistent with what I'm used to.

If what I'm asking for is not possible or completely nuts level of expensive I am also looking for paint brand suggestions for painting my current one white, I was looking at these: Rustoleum Matte White and Rustoleum Matte Clear (top coat) but wasn't sure.

Thanks!

This is what I used specifically.

I’m still considering the top coat. I’ve read a lot of people used the Rustoleum crystal clear enamel and then there’s an automotive clear enamel. I’m gonna research that a little more tonight. It has to be good enough that UVs aren’t going to turn it yellow.

Rust-Oleum 271473 Universal All Surface Spray Paint, 11 oz, Flat Metallic Soft Iron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F87S31I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pMLIAbSW0RBNR

This build will be able to play anything at 1080p 60fps high settings:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor | $79.44 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B250M PRO-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $54.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory | $65.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Windforce OC Video Card | $216.89 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $34.97 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $605.05
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $595.05
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-07 00:58 EDT-0400 |

If you want 4k 60fps high settings, you're going to have to significantly increase your budget:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $124.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card | $514.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design - Define Mini C with Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $72.98 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1148.69
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $1138.69
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-07 01:01 EDT-0400 |

Edit: Here is the stuff you'll need to paint your case orange:

https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Assortment-Automotive-Furniture-Finishing/dp/B01MZALAD9/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502082191&sr=8-5&keywords=sandpaper

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-280715-Primer-American-Accents/dp/B00KZ6LLZW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502082223&sr=1-1&keywords=white+primer+spray+paint

https://www.amazon.com/280698-American-Accents-Orange-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LVUW/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502082246&sr=1-2&keywords=orange+spray+paint

https://www.amazon.com/Oleum-280702-American-Accents-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LYMM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502082271&sr=1-1&keywords=spray+paint+gloss+finish

You might try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1906830-Lacquer-Spray-11-Ounce/dp/B0009XCKGA

Krylon brand also makes lacquers like this, so really any clear-drying one i think would work. But test it out on a random perler creation you signed yourself first, and see how you like it.

The vinyl has to be clean. So washing it to removed dust and debris is a good thing. You can use a pressure washer, but a stiff bristle brush and warm soapy water will also do the job nicely.

To make your chosen paint stick there are two ways to go: use a bonding primer, or use a paint made for plastics.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KILZ-Adhesion-1-Gal-White-Bonding-Interior-Exterior-Primer-L211101/204763136

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02321000-Plastic-Aerosol-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YUDJM

I did it on my old snowboard that was not gonna last the whole season.
-Hand Sanded the board with 120-160 grit paper. (my board has originally more of a matte paint on it then the typical glossy coats).
-I cleaned the top of the board throughly.
-I taped with painters tape all around the sides, I cut Q-Tips in half and put them in the binding screw holes to make sure that paint didn't go in.
-Spray painted with black matte with 2 layers.
-I made stencils out of foam paper, I spray with whatever other colors for the stencils
http://www.michaels.com/creatology-value-pack-foam-sheets/M10287634.html .

-After significant drying, I spray painted with a satin clear coat for protection:
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526492540&sr=1-1&keywords=krylon+clear+coat .

Here is my result:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hZXQJhVugNizjNel1 .

I would have used perhaps a more glossy finish since the snow stuck on the top of my board more than before with the factory paint. It's not something I would do a newer board personally.

Here is a link to the original submission


http://www.reddit.com/r/GunPorn/comments/2dibda/noveske_spr_and_colt_6020_carbine_builds_xpost/


Here is a comment by the original submitter

• Right Side
  
• Left Side
  
• SPR Targets
  
• Album (all 3 pictures)
  
  
   
  
  Noveske
  
  Lower
  
  
• Noveske Gen 3 Billet Lower
  
• Geissele SSA-E Trigger
  
• Rock River A2 Stock, painted with Aervoe 8343 Coyote Brown
  
• Magpul MOE + FDE Grip
  
• Magpul PMAG 20 FDE Magazine (discontinued)
  
• Magpul Ranger Plate
  
• Magpul B.A.D. Lever
  
• Battle Arms Ambidextrous Safety Selector
  
• Seekins Precision Magazine Release Button
  
• JP JPS-OSC Centerless Buffer Spring
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Heavy Buffer
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T0 Buffer Spacer
  
• Harris S-BRM 6-9" Bipod
  
• American Defense AD-BP Bipod Mount
  
  Upper
  
  
• Rainier Arms 18" UltraMatch Shilen Barrel, 1:8 twist, ratchet rifling, with mid-length gas system
  
• Rainier Arms Low Profile 'Match Grade' Gas Block
  
• Rainier Arms UltraMatch Billet A4 Upper Receiver
  
• Geissele 15" SMR MKII Rail
  
• Rainier Arms Nickle Boron Finish Bolt Carrier Group
  
• Rainier Arms Raptor Ambidextrous Billet Charging Handle
  
• Lantac Dragon Muzzle Brake
  
• Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP MOA-MOA Scope
  
• Vortex SV-2 Switchview Throw Lever
  
• Vortex Bubble Level Anti-Cant Device
  
• Butler Creek flip-open scope caps, size 18, and size 43
  
• American Defense AD-RECON-30 Quick Release Scope Mount
  
• Knight's Armament Micro Flip-Up Rear Sight 200-600m
  
• Troy HK Style Flip-Up Front Sight
  
  
   
  
  
  Colt
  
  
• Colt 6920 M4 Carbine (started as a stock Magpul edition)
  
• Geissele SSA-E Trigger
  
• Battlecomp 2.0 Compensator
  
• Eotech XPS 2-2
  
• Primary Arms 3X Long Eye Relief Magnifier Gen III
  
• Primary Arms Quick Detachable Flip To Side Magnifier Mount (Standard Height)
  
• Troy Industries MRF-C FDE BattleRail
  
• Magpul MOE FDE Grip
  
• Magpul CR123X2 Grip Core
  
• Magpul CTR FDE Stock
  
• Magpul Enhanced Rubber Buttpad
  
• Magpul AFG2 Grip
  
• Magpul MOE Trigger Guard
  
• Magpul PMAG 20 FDE Magazine (discontinued)
  
• Magpul Ranger Plate
  
• Magpul B.A.D. Lever
  
• Troy Rear Folding BattleSight
  
• JP JPS-OSC Centerless Buffer Spring
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Heavy Buffer
  
• Streamlight TLR1S Weapon Light
  
• Badger Tactical Charging Handle Latch
  
• Noveske QD end plate
  
  xpost from /r/ar15

I seal my acrylic alters with two coats of this to prevent flaking or scratching. It does the trick.

If there is any increase in thickness, it's entirely undetectable.

Also, it gives the finished product a more even appearance. Transitions from non-painted to painted surfaces on the card are less noticeable when the light hits the card from an angle that might cause a glare. I think that's largely due to the matte finish of the spray.

Hope that helps.

If you want a custom color that you cant find in a shell, i recommend Wiggy's guide on painting.
https://rosecoloredgaming.wordpress.com/2013/01/01/wiggy-how-to-and-restoration-guides-2-lets-paint/
Its SUUUUUPER helpful, i suggest this type of paint for the actual color, works wonders.
http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02321000-Plastic-Aerosol-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YUDJM.

Any type of promoter should work just fine, just read the directions, it took me about 2hrs to paint my DMG turquoise, and i let it dry for about 3 days.

Take it from someone who works with 2-5 RA surfaces all day... the finer the finish, the harder it is going to be to protect it - and without the use of liberal sanding or finishing it's going to be rough for you to churn out anything close to what a well programmed CNC lathe capable of 9000+ rpm can do. I use this - https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Flat-Spray/dp/B002DTL7ZS#customerReviews on my models, it holds up very well, I can't imagine it'd do any worse on a top.

I used rustoeleum spray paint. Sanded the body down first and then applied 3 coats. The black looks great. I also used a glossy red which hasn't held up nearly as well. PM me for a picture.

1" Wood discs + Black Primer = instant bases in bulk.

Use painter's tape and put it sticky side up on a cardboard mount - an easy way to do this is wrap painters tape sticky side out around an empty box so it also sticks to itself and stays on the box. Stick rows of wood discs on the tape, spray black. Let dry, flip discs, spray again, let dry. Remove discs, throw box away.

Glue Minis to bases with a couple small drops of crazy glue. Really simple, really fast, nice and neat looking.

Retroreflectives are fuckin cool.

Here's some spray if anyone wants to experiment with stenciling, but there's also tape and all kinds of stuff. Fun when everyone has headlamps.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-214944-Reflective-10-Ounce-Spray/dp/B000LNVC1M

i took the rim off of a 10 gallon tank i got from the dollar per gallon sale at petco. here is the picture. i used about 4 coats of this for the background and it worked flawlessly!

make sure to wear gloves and use some tools to help break the silicone bond

So Axon, just to be sure. I want to paint a certain part a flat Matte color. So I'll use a Flat/Matte Coat. If I paint other parts gloss/metallic I'll coat it with a gloss coat, correct?

Would this be a good brand for a flat/matte coat? https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Flat-Spray/dp/B000W30PIW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495418826&sr=8-2&keywords=gundam+matte+spray


And this for a gloss/metallic? https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Gloss-Spray/dp/B000W2YLGA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495418918&sr=8-3&keywords=to+coat+gloss+gundam

I apologize for all the questions and ignorance. I'm about to paint for my first time on an RG Aile Strike. :)

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-251574-11-Ounce-Bumper/dp/B005H5P5C6

has the jeep xj on the logo. I used it and loved the results, and it sticks. tried heat gun, this is easier and im more confident with it.

Ive had success with this spray but it comes off fairly easily.

My next project is to install a servo to a switch on the bars that just flips the plates up when going through them.

I don't think you're incapable. <3

But seriously, it's all really great! As for how to waterproof those boots, I don't know if this will work?

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457397610&sr=8-3&keywords=clear+coat+spray+paint+plastic

That's what I used, it seems to be holding up pretty well too.

You dont necessarily need to use Mr. Top Coat or Testors. I used a Rustoleum Matte clear and it came out just fine for me...my only gripe wasn't with the matte coat but me going to heavy with the Future clear and trying to correct it.

Krylon Fusion. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02321000-Plastic-Aerosol-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YUDJM

There is reflective spray paint available. I've been thinking about getting it for my foul weather commuter.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-214944-Reflective-10-Ounce-Spray/dp/B000LNVC1M

EDIT: another option is to use reflective glass beads. Process would be something like: paint, coat with beads while tacky, and maybe clear coat.

after removing the case I gave it about 8 light coats of this with about a half hour between coats, then after a few days I gave it a few coats of this. just make sure its clean before you do start and wait a couple days after you finish before you put it back on

Sure thing!

Lower

• Noveske Gen 3 Billet Lower
  
• Geissele High Speed DMR Trigger
  
• Rock River A2 Stock, painted with Aervoe 8343 Coyote Brown
  
• Magpul MOE + FDE Grip
  
• Magpul PMAG 20 FDE Magazine (discontinued)
  
• Magpul Ranger Plate
  
• Magpul B.A.D. Lever
  
• Battle Arms Ambidextrous Safety Selector
  
• Seekins Precision Magazine Release Button
  
• JP JPS-OSC Centerless Buffer Spring
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Heavy Buffer
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T0 Buffer Spacer
  
• Harris S-BRM 6-9" Bipod
  
• American Defense AD-BP Bipod Mount
  
  Upper
  
  
• Rainier Arms 18" UltraMatch Shilen Barrel, 1:8 twist, ratchet rifling, with mid-length gas system
  
• Rainier Arms Low Profile 'Match Grade' Gas Block
  
• Rainier Arms UltraMatch Billet A4 Upper Receiver
  
• Geissele 15" SMR MKII Rail
  
• Rainier Arms Precision Match Grade Nickel Boron BCG
  
• Rainier Arms Raptor Ambidextrous Billet Charging Handle
  
• Lantac Dragon Muzzle Brake
  
• Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP MOA-MOA Scope
  
• Vortex SV-2 Switchview Throw Lever
  
• Vortex Bubble Level Anti-Cant Device
  
• Butler Creek flip-open scope caps, size 18, and size 43
  
• American Defense AD-RECON-30 Quick Release Scope Mount
  
• Knight's Armament Micro Flip-Up Rear Sight 200-600m
  
• Troy HK Style Flip-Up Front Sight
  
  Obligatory target pic
  
  
• Handholds at 100 yards

Okay so would this top coat work? or maybe this one An extra question. Would I place stickers before gloss coat or after gloss and before matte?

Edited my previous comment with the link, but here's a picture of how my bike turned out

Picture

Link to the clear again just in case

Does anyone know if this would be a good finish to go over the paint?

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-11-Ounce-Clear-Finish-Aerosol/dp/B001HWCLK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422148850&sr=8-1&keywords=krylon+clear+matte

looked into this and buying replacements is stupid expensive. if you want the OEM molding look, you have to remove it, paint it and put it back on with double sided tape. this is the trim paint to use, even has an XJ on the can.

Rust-Oleum Automotive 251574 11-Ounce Trim and Bumper Spray, Matte Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H5P5C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mhSPzb1NAMDJG

This is on my to-do list as well, I personally like the look of the 97+ molding when it's not faded grey. it's also saved my door panels from parking lot monsters who don't look before they open their door.

You can also purchase a spray can or window filmer, like this. It comes off with acetone, not water, so you should be able to wipe it down while adding privacy.

Otherwise velcro seems to meet your requirements; stick one side to the molding, the other to your plexiglass. probably add a handle or two to make removing it easier. Can also cut holes in the plexiglass for finger holes and/or ventilation.

this would work better. The high heat needs really high heat to "bake" on and cure.

Cheap and easy waterproofing.

Just something like this?

Thank you! I've put some of this on.

It may come down to a difference in printers. Mine dries really quickly and isn't prone to smearing because I have a transparency print setting built in. Yours might use more ink or a different type of ink or something. If the ink continues to be annoying, I highly recommend spraying your sheets with something like this before you put them on the cards.

Perhaps a pattern in frosted glass? You can make a stick-on masking stencil (Modello will make you a custom one for the dimensions of your window) and then use a frosting spray to add the pattern. You can also use removable frosting-look decals. Use a pattern that you like or go crazy, frost the entire thing except "portholes" where you want to be able to look out.

If you are feeling architectural you can add window lattice. Painted garden trellises might even do the trick if you want to save money. How much space/land do you have outside the windows? You can mount the lattice immediately outside, or place them as a wall a few feet in front of the window if you have space. You should be able to see out, but it will be hard for others to see in.

This stuff is basically XTC 3D in a can:

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-I00500A00-12-Ounce-Triple-Aerosol/dp/B001144TJC

I think rust oleum has a "chrome" can.

Like this

How about something like this?

You can buy a spray that will make the glass hazy (like a bathroom window). It's removable.

But yeah, your landlord sounds like a piece of work. Have you asked him directly how he expects you have privacy and avoid being a target for break-in?

For building gunpla or models in general (including resin cast kits) people use stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Gloss-Spray/dp/B000W2YLGA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523076243&sr=8-4&keywords=mr+clear+spray

Look at Krylon's Fusion for Plastic. It is designed for stuff like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02321001-K02321000-Plastic-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YUDJM

This is what I've been using recently. (I get it for like $10 a can from Walmart)

http://www.amazon.ca/Krylon-Clear-Finish-Aerosol-11-Ounce/dp/B001HWCLK2

As for how it looks, my Duel & Buster were sprayed with it so you can check them out below

http://imgur.com/a/HmPeu

Rustoleom has been making this stuff for like a decade. http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-214944-Reflective-10-Ounce-Spray/dp/B000LNVC1M

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009X8LZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works well on cardboard and plastic, in my experience!

Here's black.

Make sure you get the "flat" colors (see the bottom right of the picture on the label).

Here's Krylon, it works too if you can find it.

I used Rustoleum Pro line flat black on mine. No peeling. I don't know if that is what you are looking for though.
EDIT: Don't know if that is the texture you want, and it does chip after a while. Look into getting an etching primer before you lay down the bed liner, it might stick better

I always use primer. It really helps in all the ways previously mentioned. After some experimenting, I really like the Krylon range https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-51315-All-Purpose-Interior-Decorator/dp/B001B73WCO

Just hold the models about 1.5 - 2 feet away, and go in short bursts. Never let the can stay still while spraying. All you need is a very thin, even coat all over the model. Don't worry if it doesn't look good, the worst thing you can do is go overboard and start filling in details. Shake the can often between sprays as well.

Actually, Frosting Spray works just fine. Making a paper mask and sandblasting is another option.

I haven't tried it yet, but the artist who I've been following most closely as I learn about sculpting uses Krylon matte finish spray (this one I believe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWCLK2/ref=twister_B004JLA2OU?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1), and her stuff doesn't seem to be shiny. Her name is EmilySculpts if you want to check her out.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7578838-Professional-Performance-15-Ounce/dp/B000PIEWLA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1398391364&sr=8-5&keywords=black+spray+paint

Awww yeah

Use Rustoleum plastic primer and Rustoleum chrome or metallic silver. If you read the instructions and practice on something else to get the hang of it, you should get a really smooth finish.

This is it. It comes in black, white, gray, and red.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-251574-11-Ounce-Bumper/dp/B005H5P5C6

So basically this:http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458077276&sr=8-1&keywords=gloss+spray+paint

And this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CSXMDZM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Coyote Brown 12 Oz. Spray Paint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPH4SMU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Which one of these sprays should I get to coat it?

1. 2, or 3?

Reflective paint would be harder to prove if pulled over

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-214944-Reflective-10-Ounce-Spray/dp/B000LNVC1M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480431180&sr=8-1&keywords=reflective+clear+paint

just spray paint them

Is this new?


SportBike riders have been putting this stuff on their license plates forever. It makes it look normal all day, but when a cop tails you to get your plate, the camera (and cop) get too much reflection to make it out.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNVC1M/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=48510694836&hvpos=1s1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5358276887281050394&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_4wgq8zht8d_b

I don't really know that stuff either. This is what I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009X8LZ4/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485391722&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001144TJC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502415650&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=krylon+crystal+clear&dpPl=1&dpID=41MGd%2BvBXVL&ref=plSrch

I spray with Krylon clear, let set for 24 hours then finish with testors dull coat.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009X8LZ4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FF6DN4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clean your screen as good as you can. Cover everything but the screen and lightly hit it with this clear coat spray until you get a clean finish. It will fill in all of the cracks and give you a new finish. It will last for a couple months too while providing protection against further damage.

There is no way to permanently fix scratched glass.

Use spray paint that also advertises as a primer. It will make no observable difference if it blobs up or runs a bit.

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-51315-All-Purpose-Interior-Decorator/dp/B001B73WCO?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Don't get too hung up if it's flat white, gloss etc. That only has to do with the amount of diffused reflection versus spectacular reflection. It does not make that much of a difference if the light source is close to the plant. It will make a difference if the light source is further away from a plant where you would want a more specular reflection.

For very high reflectance use white paint with barium sulfate added. It will beat most all other white reflective sources.

http://www.triticeaecap.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Barium_Sulfate.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/Pyro-Chem-Source-Barium-Sulfate/dp/B00JGDLLR8

I did my research and found that someone suggested using this http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-Colormaster-Crystal-Clear-Acrylic/dp/B0009X8LZ4?th=1&psc=1

But im still hesitant because I don't really wanna ruin the IDs. I'm only hesitant because it'll take me a while to earn up that much money for another.

I made one but I decided that I was going to go balls deep and try one of the most difficult designed mau5 heads out, the disco head. Long story short it cost me about ~$300 to make, not counting 2 others that I messed up on.

Materials:

-Head

-Eyes

-Head Mount

-Mouth Mesh

-[2] Led lights for coloring the eyes

-Superglue for mouth

-[2] Plastic glue for Headmount

-About [6-10] Rhine stone glue bottles

-[3] bags of Rhinestones

-Foam Ear material ---> With Ear template

-Washers -[4] Threaded Rods -Wing nuts

-Chrome Spray paint

-Lastly, Insulation Strips [White]

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Stuff I had: Dremel, stubbornness, no life, sharpies, too much free time.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Use any of the above tuts to get the general idea.

The template for the ears, (mine are huge).

Once the mouth is cut and you accounted for the eyes (pop the eyes in half and trace them on.)

Spray paint the whole head chrome, in light mist layers. The more layers the smoother the finish.

Once that's done, enjoy the 90+ hours of putting each rhinestone on, one by one.

Profit.

1. Acquire this.
   
2. Tape some shit
   
3. ???
   
4. Profit