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Reddit reviews: The best spring clamps

We found 91 Reddit comments discussing the best spring clamps. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 61 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top Reddit comments about Spring Clamps:

u/SquaresAre2Triangles · 2 pointsr/RocketLeague

You can take them apart by just drilling out the rivets, and I just use spray paint for the base color. You can use some kind of paint stripper (can grab some from your local hardware store or walmart, but something like this) to remove the paint that is on there if you want, but it's not completely necessary, just make sure you do light coats of spray paint so it sticks nicely.

For the details I use paint pens but you could probably use any paint with fine paint brushes.

Then i finish with a glossy enamel clear coat spray, and just be careful not to spray it on too thick or it can make the paint run or bubble up a bit.

Aside from just "how to do it" some tips:

  • It's easy and even if you just want to paint it a solid color it's totally worth it. I haven't done any hot wheels mods before this and my first couple still turned out great.
  • You can always strip the paint again and start over if something gets screwy
  • Wait like a full day between the main painting steps (base coats, wait a day, detail work, wait a day, clear coat) just to make sure it's all good and dry
  • Use gloves when you are doing the detail painting so that oils from your hands don't mess up the base paint
  • I use some clips like this to hold them up. What works great is putting one of the posts from the body of the car into the round hole on the clip, and then clipping it onto a toilet paper tube. Works great as a little handle and stand.
u/vikashgoel · 2 pointsr/subaru

This is actually a cheap fix if all you want to do is replace the front main seal and are willing to put in a couple of hours. I would, if I were you, because I wouldn't want want burning oil fumes coming in through my ventilation system.

You have to remove the timing belt and then the crank sprocket should come off with a little bit of wiggling. The main seal is right behind it and will take a little work to get out (I get them out with dental picks, miniature pliers, and judicious use of a small torch to burn the rubber), but the new one just presses in after you lube it.

You can get an aftermarket seal from RockAuto for $3 plus shipping.

The instructions in mklimbach's link are pretty good, but your car will actually be way easier than that because it has a SOHC engine -- take a look at these instructions for something that's going to be more like your car.

A couple notes:

The tensioner on your car mounts differently from the ones in both of those writeups, but you'll figure it out just fine.

Also, I find it helpful to use a soft plastic spring clamp to hold the belt in place on the cam sprocket.

If your car has a manual transmission, that really simplifies tightening and loosening the crank bolt, because all you have to do is put the transmission in 5th gear and set the parking brake, and the engine won't be able to turn.

Finally, if you don't know when the timing belt was last changed, you might consider replacing it in this process. I don't remember whether your car's timing belt replacement interval is 60,000 miles or 100,000 miles, but either way it seems to make sense if you're hoping for another 100,000 miles from it. If the timing belt breaks the engine should survive (because it's a non-interference design), but you'll need a tow, which may well cost as much as the parts. Consider the water pump too. It's all easy to get to in this process, and RockAuto has pretty cheap prices. You could probably do it all for around $200.

You and your friend can do this. This is one of the easiest cars to replace the front main seal on.

u/zabbed · 4 pointsr/Coachella

The 99 Cents Store usually has big plastic clamps that are perfect for hanging sheets. I've tried using the biggest binder clips I could find but they're slippery and my sheets would always slide right out when the wind picked up. You could also try wrapping the sheet around the pole and safety clipping the sheet to itself. You'll also want to secure/weigh down the bottom of the sheets so they aren't always billowing in your/your neighbor's campsite.

Battery powered string lights are great for lighting up the whole campsite. Mister bottles and big battery powered fans are fabulous in the afternoon. Having lots of water is nice because lugging water back from the refill stations is a pain unless you have a wagon. I bring a few cheap water jugs with spouts that work perfectly as a sink and I also leave one on top of the car so that I have hot water to rinse off with. Bring as many battery packs as you can! I went through my one battery pack in a couple days and it sucked going to the charging station and waiting in the sun for a couple hours since the charging was so slow. If you don't want to keep buying $10 bags of ice, use a second cooler with a layer of dry ice on the bottom and only fill it with ice and whatever food/drinks you want to be frozen. It'll stay frozen the whole weekend and you can transfer ice to your main cooler as needed.

It's nice to have some kind of place finder so you can easily spot your campsite from the end of the aisle when you're coming back. A lot of people have flags but I've used inflatable dinosaurs duct taped to the roof of my car, a giant pizza slice pool floatie tied over my windshield, and solar-powered color-changing lawn lights staked in front of my car. The dinosaurs worked the best!

u/iDingo91 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

  • Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  • Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  • Gundam Marker Value Set
  • Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  • Bamboo Skewers
  • Alligator Clips
  • ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  • Styrofoam Blocks

    I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.

    So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?

    Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?

    TL;DR:

  • Are the items I have listed a good starting point?

  • Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?

  • Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?

  • Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?

  • Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.

  • What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?

  • What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?

u/justatest90 · 5 pointsr/GayKink

Hangers with clips (Either alone or on the hanger). On the hanger is fun because you can usually slide them towards or away from each other, and the tension will hold them a bit in place.

Vice grips - the weight can be really satisfying

Binder clips - even better are the ones with the magnet on the end!

Alligator cilps

Jumper cables, but probably need some heavy padding.

Chopsticks and tight (small) rubber bands.

Almost anything with "clip" or "clamp" in the name. So, for instance, if you have those heavy-duty clamps that get used to hold down a tablecloth at an outdoor picnic, that can be fun. Or woodworking clamps.

There are also things you can do to up the intensity even with gentle things. Ex: after the clothespins have been on a while, turn them 90 degrees. Or go more for the edge of the nipple rather than the base. Or get a spatula/paddle and slap your nipples to get them tender first.

You can really have fun with anything that squeezes. I remember as a kid using two clipboards. It was tough to get the nipple in, but was a fun sensation.

Hope that gives you some ideas!


u/DrTacosMD · 2 pointsr/boardgames

Yes, no problem. I use ones like these or these. Please note, those links are for type of clamp only, not saying to buy those specific items. The first one is sometimes called a ratcheting clamp or bar clamp. The second one is sometimes called a ratcheting spring clamp.

So with the size, with the question you've asked you're actually missing a part of the instructions. It sounds like you're clamping the cards directly. Do not do this. Yes you would need a rather large clamp foot, but I would still worry about bending or indenting the cards. That is why I say to put two pieces of wood on top and bottom of stack, a bit wider and longer than the actual stack. I have also used my kid's board books to great effect (the ones that are the thick cardboard for every page so kids cant destroy it). You still need two though, you use them exactly like two blocks of wood. This helps to distribute the force of the clamp evenly. Absolute best practice would be to clamp really strong in the middle of the stack, and then secure the 4 corners with more clamps. I typically am lazy, and just do two clamps, either covering two diagonal corners, or two in the center in line with eachother. Do not put anything in between the wood and the cards, to cushion it or whatever, this will cause problems. And make sure the wood itself is flat and true. Any warping of the wood will translate to the cards.

Your goal is to clamp the cards down as much as you can, but you need to make sure you're not bending or warping the cards because of uneven pressure from the clamps. So look at the stack you're trying to clamp, the size of your wood blocks, and that will tell you what you need for clamps.

Let me know if you need clarification on any of that.



u/leeeeebs · 1 pointr/architecture

Thank you! The first 2 pics are from one of my final models from my grad school thesis. The 3rd pic is a closeup pic from this model for an earlier grad school studio.

The thesis model probably took a roughly a week working 16 hours days to finish it. The second model took closer to 2 weeks x 16 hour days (that one took longer because it was earlier in my career and I wasn't quite as efficient). In both cases there was some amount of design going on while I was building. The more complete your design is before you start building, the faster the modeling goes. Of course, as any architecture student will tell you, you don't always (ever?) have the luxury of a 100% complete design when you start on your final model.

Also, general tip: if you're proud of your work, never underestimate the value of good lighting and photography equipment when documenting it. If your school has a photography studio, use it. If think you might want to use your work for a portfolio someday for applying to school/job, make sure you have the best quality images possible.

The clamps shouldn't be too hard to find. Look for "plastic spring clamps". Here they are on Amazon. I've also seen them at Harbor Freight in the past, in case they have that in your area.

I think I cut sheets of acetate for the windows. It comes in different thicknesses. You definitely don't want the thinnest stuff as it's too flimsy (unless you're trying to curve it). Basically you want it to be as thick as possible as long as it's still manageable to cut with an exacto knife. I'll echo what others have said though in that most of the time it's better to just leave windows open rather than putting something in them to represent glass. In the case of my thesis model, the distinction between indoor and outdoor space was very important to define, which is why I opted to model the glass. Random tip for when you DO use sheet of acetate to represent glass: if you rub them with sandpaper, it looks exactly like frosted glass and it's freaking sweet.

u/astrofrog · 2 pointsr/GripTraining

I'd like to make a contraption like this (the one on the left):

I live on campus and don't own a car, so while I could probably make it out to a hardware store eventually, the easiest thing for me would be to just order the parts I need online, so I'd like to go that route if possible. I'm wondering if anyone here has made something similar, and if so, if you happen to know some of the specifications for the materials I would need. I guess the parts list would look something like (along with my questions associated with each):

-Pony clamps. These look like the right ones. Is the hole in the handle that you screw the plates into already there or do you have to drill that yourself? Assuming it's already there...

-Threaded rod (is that what they're called? All the ones I'm seeing online appear to be quite long) and hex nuts. Does anyone know what diameter I need for these?

-Those metal plate things. Not sure what they're called, but I'm guessing I can find them if I search for a bit.

-The wrap for the handles. What sort of material/tape is typically used?

-Rubber bands. Already have some. I assume there are no issues with them sliding down?

I'd like to experiment with different training methods in order to improve my pinch grip for rock climbing, as this tends to be the hardest grip position to train using more traditional climbing methods. This seems like a potentially cheap, no-tools-required-to-make device that is also compact and portable (unlike, say, pinch blocks and weights). It also seems very versatile as I can not only train dynamic pinch, but static pinch too at varying widths by placing an object of the desired width in between the handles.

Thanks for any help!

u/MidnightCreative · 3 pointsr/DungeonsAndDragons

Sharp pencil and metal ruler, maybe a triangle ruler too. And draw out a plan first with measurements.

A mitre saw set like this is super useful for cutting 45 degree angles.

Good wood glue (I like Gorilla glue personally).

You need to keep pressure on corners when you're glueing up. Masking tape is a good, cheap option, and this video gives a pretty good tutorial on how to do it.
But if you don't mind spending the money then this thing is literally built for the job.

Sandpaper. Low grit for taking a lot of material off quickly, high grit for a nice smooth finish.

How you actually want to finish it off is up to you, between paint, lacquer, wax, etc. For these boxes I used a premixed beeswax/turpentine rubbed in with a cloth.

Most important thing this is to take your time. Measure twice, cut once.

u/Yeargdribble · 14 pointsr/piano

If you're hunting for a recommendation, this is my solution. I initially got the idea from a guy I gig with. It's great for outdoor gigs with a lot of wind.

But it's also amazing for fighting even the most stubborn, huge, and new books. The book I actually grabbed to snap this picture doesn't even need it any more because it's gotten broken in from heavy use and being clamped overnight at different spots so often.

I got my clamps at a dollar store (for a buck each) but you can also find them online (at a slightly higher price) or probably at most hardware stores. They are just simple spring clamps. The feet swivel and hold flat at any angle so they won't damage whatever they are attached to. They are also pretty easy to take on and off quickly.

And if you're working out of a book in a very specific location (most people using books of actual tunes), flattening the book and putting them on tight overnight for the first and last page will pretty much break in that spot in your book.

u/Shankafoo · 1 pointr/Twitch

This is the one I picked up. - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UOOTCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Probably more than you need, but I've been thrilled with the value considering I use it for youtube videos, site commercials, and of course, now Twitch.

You could probably just get away with this - http://www.amazon.com/6x9-Chromakey-Backdrop-Background-Fancierstudio/dp/B001PCQTDO/ref=pd_cp_p_3

Make sure you have something to set it up with, either a wall, piece of foamboard, or get a frame like this - http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-Support/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_y

If you get the frame, don't neglect the spring clamps - http://www.amazon.com/Cheaplights-PCS-3-75-Spring-Clamps/dp/B0019SHZU0/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z though I got mine (metal and more robust) from Home Depot.

u/tranteryost · 1 pointr/architecture

I’m in US so names of things might be different:

X-acto: Getting the nicer knife (with a cushioned grip) and a couple different styles of blades is so helpful!
I found that having The Chopper a miter box, and this thing kept my cuts square.
Now I have a mini miter saw and it’s pretty awesome but pricey.

A self healing cutting mat that you use only for cutting (don’t get glue etc on it).

Sandpaper to clean up messy cuts.

Glue: tacky for most things - let it set up a little on a scrap piece before applying, things won’t move around as much. cyanoacrolyte (non gap filling is better) and an accelerator are godsends when you can’t hold pieces together to dry.

mini clamps or mini clips and a square that you can clamp to (you can make this out of foam board and line it with parchment paper to keep glue from sticking) so you don’t have to hold it while it dries. The gentle painters tape also helps.

Wash your hands constantly! Have a ‘clean area’ for cutting and assembly and a ‘dirty area’ for glue ups.

Edited to add that I wouldn’t buy a styrofoam cutter off the bat, most schools have them and they’re just for concept massing models. Check YouTube for videos, the guys that make scenery for model trains etc are amazing.

u/Tcarruth6 · 1 pointr/Vive

EDIT: I think the success of the design show above is reliant on the very exact shape and size of the clip holding the rod. It leaves the rod exactly flush with the top of the vive controllers which maximises stability. Most of the links to clips I've seen (including mine below) don't meet this requirement. We need an exact part number!

A Canadian alternative?

https://www.amazon.ca/TOOL-STORAGE-SPRING-TERRY-CLIPS/dp/B0070PSXQ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473276026&sr=8-5&keywords=tool+clip

Its a 3/8" version but I think you could successfully bend out the clip to fit a wider pipe.

Here is a 5/8" version but these are thinner so won't be as precise longitudinally:

https://www.amazon.ca/SPRING-TOOL-TERRY-SPRUNG-STEEL/dp/B00R2MB3YG/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1473276194&sr=8-38&keywords=tool+clip

It seems a pseudonym for these things is a 'Terry clip' or perhaps even slicker a 'roller jaw clip':

https://www.springmasters.com/sp/roller-jaw-clips.html

u/My_Empty_Wallet · 2 pointsr/gopro

clip-on mount, good for backpacks, music stands, belts, anything similar. It does a pretty good job.

Spring clamp. Stick a curved adhesive mount on it and you've got yourself a great clamp mount. A hell of a lot cheaper than the GoPro branded version.

A GoPole or similar. I've got an extending version that I snagged from Best Buy. It does a nice job and is probably the most useful accessory I've got.

Brunton All Day battery. Only fits on a few cases, is not waterproof, but has a ton of battery life. Also, you can charge your phone from it.

I'm sure there's more, but I use these almost every time I use my H3+

u/mark8992 · 2 pointsr/scuba

Depends on the boat a bit - if you are on a Blackbeard's trip, you need to pare it down a lot, because you won't have any place to store much personal stuff.

On the other hand, if you are on the AquaCat or the Juliet, you will have more space and more room for your stuff.

I like having 2 bathing suits so I can swap a dry one for a wet one. I also learned to bring spring clamps like these. You can hang your wetsuit, towel or wet bathing suit from the railing or rigging and not worry about losing it in the wind. If you forget, check the sand under the boat when you dive - I've recovered quite a few and put them back in service. People drop them into the water frequently. A dive site that gets visited 4-5 times a week will probably have some lost items in the sand under the mooring site.

Really, a couple of bathing suits, a couple of t-shirts, a pair of 'convertible' pants with zip-off legs that convert to shorts should be all you will wear on the boat.

November can be 'iffy' in the Bahamas. It will most probably be in the low 80's, but it's possible to get a cold front that drops the temps into the low 70's or even high 60's. NBD, but you might want a light jacket or hoodie to take the chill off after a couple of dives on a cooler day.

Bring a book to read during surface intervals. Reef-friendly sunscreen, a ball cap, sunglasses, and a pair of compact binoculars are nice to have on board. Non-marking deck shoes are ok, but sandals (i.e. flip-flops or thongs depending on where you are from) are the only footware I use on-board.

I've done a few live-aboard trips in the Bahamas and the Turks and Caicos. PM me if you have any specific questions.

u/Charlieuk · 2 pointsr/rawpetfood

Some dogs are gulpers, some are chewers. I have two small (8kg) dogs. One gently and slowly chews everything he eats and the other inhales food and gulps it all down. With the gulper, I feed partially frozen to help slow her down. You can also buy plastic clamps like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Am-tech-S2955-6-Inch-Plastic-3-Piece/dp/B004TRQJVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502140551&sr=8-1&keywords=plastic+clamp to hold onto the food. This will make them take their time, tear and chew :)

u/Hexxman007 · 1 pointr/Guitar

heres two of the biggest, Duct tape, and crazy glue. trust me.
on a less personal experience note, id recommend extra cables as many as you can carry, or a cable kit if you make your own. any adaptors in bulk you may use and store them in two separate places. when stuff goes missing its great to have a backup box of emergency stuff. actually id recommend also if you are planning any outdoor gigs, plastic drop cloths and larger golf umbrellas if you have room.

Edit* oh a just remembered, these little beauties saved me a hew times as a sound tech. https://www.amazon.com/Cheaplights-PCS-3-75-Spring-Clamps/dp/B0019SHZU0

u/StephenJonesUS · 2 pointsr/myog

I have a video I just shot heading to YouTube soon that should help. For now, the advice about using the notches is the best. I rarely pin. I use clips .

Basic outline:

  1. Clip at all known alignment points (edges and notches)
  2. Pull fabric straight between two clips, find center, clip again.
  3. Repeat until the whole seam is complete
u/SparklyOtter · 1 pointr/ElectricForest

Twin sheets are usually ~5ft x 8ft, so two of them hung side by side would work. Walmart has individual sheets (make sure they're flat, not fitted) for like $5. You can also get some sturdy spring clamps like these for holding the sheets up. Just make sure the jaw size will fit around your pole.

u/BOFslime · 1 pointr/Nexus7

These are the clamps I used. The GF can get a bit crafty, and had these already from something else she was making.

I used 2 clamps, with some felt so the feat didn't mark anything up. I pressed the screen down first by hand (and a microfiber screen cloth) to make sure it was down and there, then just let the clamps hold it. After an hour of heating up, I shut it off and left it overnight to cool (though you don't really need that much time, this was my replacement so I wasn't using it anyway).

My co-worker did his in 3-4 hours time total.

u/Freonr2 · 1 pointr/bonnaroo

I used this set this year:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0109K8F3O

Fine but the little tips tended to fall off. Still work without the tips but not as well. Plenty strong to hold up even heavy tarps.

I just ordered this set, look sturdier, should last years and has rubber coated tongs so it won't tear anything up:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7ZSPRY

I got them for putting up large heavy tarps to augment our canopies, though. Extra large (2") binder clips work fine for light tapestries.

u/O_sew · 1 pointr/myog

I forget about patterns sometimes, thank you!

These are what I use. The rubber helps on slippery material.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3XNLDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ky.QCbR5NCTWT

u/NessInOnett · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I'm a brand new woodworker also doing furniture/cabinet type projects and just loaded up on a beginner set of clamps. This is what I got:

From Harbor freight:

4x 12" quick release

4x 24" quick release

2x 48" F-style bar clamp

2x 60" F-style bar clamp

And this box of assorted spring clamps (they're decent.. not great) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0109K8F3O/

It was actually a good starter setup, I've used everything and haven't run into too many situations yet where I didn't have enough. I use the large spring clamps and 12" clamps the most by far, I need more of those. More often than not, I use the 24" clamps because I ran out of 12". And sometimes I use the 12's for small things that I'd prefer to have 6" clamps for, but I don't have any.. so I need some of those.

Whenever I do run out of clamps in the sizes I need, I end up cobbling together some kind of setup with scrap wood and work with what I have. Don't worry if you don't have enough, you'll figure something out to get you by and you'll know what else you need to get.

u/opteldo · 2 pointsr/videography

Here you go! Copypasted straight from the description:

> BONGO TIES - http://amzn.to/2AbscKt
>
Cheapest DIFFUSER - http://amzn.to/2Brkcml
> MUST HAVE CLAMPS - http://amzn.to/2iVhcHe
>
ND FILTER STEP RINGS - http://amzn.to/2hVX7Q4
>* GAFF TAPE - http://amzn.to/2BrkidT

^(aaand Matt's views massively drop)

u/VoyeurOfBliss · 1 pointr/sexover30

The prime lens camera is a Panasonic Lumix DMC-GM5 running a Sigma 350963 60mm F2.8 DN. Its mounted to a GFM MK-1, which is then perched on a microphone stand and held in place by spring clamps. A plastic bag on a string filled with a several cans of fruit provided to me by u/ImAddictedToPorn is hung at the end of one of the tripod legs provides counterweight for the weight of the outstretched camera. At the base of the mic stand are bags of rock salt inside custom bags sewed by u/username2201 .

The other mic stand also has the rock salt bags at its base, and the other end is adorned with a GPS bicycle mount, which uses the Gamin ball diameter that I've standardized on for over ten years. On the ball is a iOttie phone dock, and clipped in the mount is my work phone, a Galaxy S7 International running in pro video mode.

Wew. I need a cigarette.

u/jenjohnston80 · 4 pointsr/quilting

I use spring clamps llike these to hold the layers on the table. I got mine at a hardware store.

u/jaysohn · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

I use one of these. I clamp it to the tire or to the downtube and the handles keep the wheel from turning.