Reddit mentions: The best stage & studio cables

1: That's just a controller. It doesn't have sounds of its own. I would suggest considering something that does have sounds of its own (such as a synthesizer, a piano, or something more like a normal student keyboard like this) so that you aren't tethered to a computer+software any time you want to practice. That said, you can still get by with a controller only and your laptop. Whatever you get, you probably do want Midi so you can use it with your software. (Unless it's a real 88-key piano, which is probably the best for learning IMO). For the "portable keyboards" with midi support, like the one I linked, Yamaha and Casio make some pretty good ones. A little pricier than the one you linked, unfortunately. 32 keys might feel a kind of limiting, but maybe not. You can probably find a 61-key one with MIDI on craigslist pretty cheap. (Yamaha PSR series is pretty good, nice sounds)

2: Learning some music theory is definitely a helpful tool, and that generally means studying an instrument. It's pretty much essential for collaborating with other musicians, since you'll need to speak "the language of music." (Keys, chords, etc.) One thing I've always enjoyed for learning is going to guitar chord sites (like ultimate-guitar.com), looking up some songs I know, and playing the chords on piano. If you don't know how to play a chord, look it up. You'll start noticing patterns (how to play a major chord, minor chord, 7th, maj7, etc). That combined with practicing scales can take you pretty far, and give you some tools to explore when writing songs. /r/musictheory seems to be a good community for resources, too.

3: Piano is so fun. I played other instruments before picking up piano, but learning piano has improved my understanding of other instruments (and theory in general) dramatically. So I think you definitely have the right idea looking at keyboard instruments.

4: If you do get a MIDI controller that doesn't have built-in sounds.. I noticed that the one you linked doesn't have any pitch bend or modulation wheel. I'd consider getting one that does. Pretty handy when working with synths (including the ones in your DAW). Another nice thing to have is pads for banging out drum beats. Much more intuitive than using the keyboard. Neither are essential, but they're fun, and something to consider. M-Audio Axiom series is a good one with both of these features. Oxygen series, too.

5: Interestingly, Keystation 49 II is the same price on Amazon as the Keystation MIni 32 you linked. Out of the two, I would definitely go for the 49. More keys, and real pitch bend+modulation wheels. (The pitch bend buttons on the mini look kind of lame IMO.) Unless the more portable size is just super important to you.

6: If the keyboard you get has traditional (round) MIDI I/O ports but no USB port, then you'll need a MIDI interface for your computer. They're cheap, and you don't need anything fancy. Something like this is fine. You can also get an audio interface that has MIDI built-in. If you go with an audio interface, you should do more research, as a good audio interface (unlike an expensive midi adapter) does make a big difference in the sound that gets recorded. But that's probably farther down the line if right now you're just trying to learn and get better at composition. At that point you'll be looking at good monitor speakers and/or monitor headphones, too.

No hard and fast rules, here. Just a few things to consider.

/u/libvideoguy - congratulations on stepping out on your own! A few thoughts on your B&H list (Silver Panasonic G7, Rode VideoMic "Pro", Polsen VHF wireless mic, Benro S6 tripod, GoPro Hero 4 Session):

Camera and Tripod

The silver G7 is a great starter camera, but I would [get it for $597.99 with the 14-42 lens and a $100 gift card] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FIPCDMCG7SG.html) - and use the gift card to get a [$99.95 3Pod V3AH] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FFP3PV3AH.html). That will save you $299 over buying the Benro separately - which you can use to buy better mics.

Audio

I would avoid VHF wireless mics - I have a couple of them (from Azden and Audio Technica) and they have serious interference problems.

Instead, you might want to consider a [$179.95 Boya BY-WM6 UHF wireless setup] (http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Omni-directional-Microphone-Continuous-Operation/dp/B01BY1IT24/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

Here is an in-depth test of the Boya's range and susceptibility to interference from nearby cell phones [starting at 4:20 in this video] (https://youtu.be/Cb39csJwR6I?t=4m20s) - this mic does a great job out to over 200 feet, which is pretty darned good for a UHF mic in this price class.

I would also avoid consumer mics with 3.5mm unbalanced outputs (such as the Rode VideoMic "Pro").

Instead , I recommend a battery powered pro XLR mic such as the [$229 Azden SGM-250 with a free hot shoe/shock mount] (http://www.amazon.com/Azden-SGM-250-Professional-Powered-Microphone/dp/B00XWG2YBW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [$20.95 Hosa MIT-156 XLR to 3.5mm adapter/impedance matching transformer] (http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MIT-156-Impedance-Transformer-XLR3F/dp/B00FC4YR58/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

I also recommend you invest in a [$38.99 mic boom] (http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PMKSB06-Microphone-Telescoping-Extending/dp/B011FOMA02/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and 20 feet of [$5 XLR cable] (http://www.amazon.com/CBI-MLC20-Microphone-Cable-Foot/dp/B000VJJQUU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) to get the mic off the camera and closer to your subjects.

With the addition of the GoPro, this setup will cost you $1270.88 - and give you more value for your money.

When budget permits, you should add a ~$200 [external preamplifier] (http://www.amazon.com/Saramonic-SR-AX107-Channel-Transformer-Adapter/dp/B00SSLCON4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) or a [external recorder] (http://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-DR-70D-4-Channel-Audio-Recorder/dp/B00OY6718K/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) plus a set of [high quality monitoring headphones] (http://www.amazon.com/Senal-SMH-1000-Closed-Back-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00ASWZO6U/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) to improve the quality of your sound.

You will also need to think about lighting.

But for now, this setup should get you started.

Hope this is helpful and good luck!

Good monitors are huge. Headphone sound is fine, but you want to mix using unbiased reference monitors so you know what things are going to sound like. Then you make sure it sounds good through headphones, in the car, etc. Even something like these will make a huge difference. If you've got some extra coin, go for something better. I found a pair of Mackie HR842 monitors on eBay for $250 (the old ones, not the new mk2 model). They're amazing.

You don't need more inputs than what you're actually using. If you're trying for a cheap home studio, your Apogee will work just fine. Just switch cables/inputs when you're recording something new.

But anyway. Here we go. What I would buy (of note, these are all Amazon affiliate links):

Mics:

• Shure SM58 - $100 (for vocals)
  
  
• Shure SM57 - $100 (for guitars/vocals)
  
  
• Sennheiser e609 - $100 (for guitars, so you can double-mic)
  
  
• 20' mic cable - $7.50 (2 for $15)
  
  Monitors:
  
  
• M-Audio Studiophile AV 30 - $85
  
  
• Auralex MoPAD monitor pads - $44
  
  
• OnStage SMS6000 monitor stands - $100 (if your desk isn't large enough)
  
  Bass:
  
  
• Tech 21 SansAmp Bass Driver DI - $200
  
  I've been out of the "assorted percussion" game for a while, so you'll have to use your best judgement for that.
  
  All that I've listed is $744 off of Amazon. You can DEFINITELY find cheap used mics and the Bass DI. Look for Gear Talk: Classifieds on Facebook, for example. This is all stuff that you can use today to get your home studio off the ground and functional. You also have $256 to spend on other stuff that you might need (percussion, surdo, etc.)
  
  Logic and Pro Tools are built from the ground up to be recording suites. Ableton, while certainly being a live-sound-first option, works just fine. Nothing wrong with getting your feet wet using Ableton, and switching over to a bigger/better suite later. I recorded my first EP using GarageBand before making the transition myself.
  
  Start with the basics. Start with what you NEED to record, not what you want. While what you already have is basic and not feature packed, it works and will get you in the game. (Related: stay away from plugins until you know how to really mix well with the basic compressor and EQ your recording suite comes with.)
  
  Hope that helps!

Alright, here's what I've put together for you:

1. Turntable: Rega P1 ~$450
   
   
2. Speakers: JBL LSR308 - $500
   
   
3. Phono Preamp: Pyle-Pro PP444 - $10.49
   
   
4. Passive Preamp (volume control): Schiit Sys - $49
   
   
5. RCA-to-XLR cable (to connect speakers) 10' - $9.50
   
   Total: $1,018.99
   
   
   Logic:
   
   
   Turntable:
   
   Rega turntables are some of the best in the world, and their quality extends all the way down the line. I have the step-up mode, the P3, and love it. $400 is roughly the entry point for a "good" turntable, which I think is a solid investment given your budget.
   
   Speakers
   
   The JBL LSR series is very well regarded on r/audiophile. They are generally considered to be the best powered monitors on the market. Being powered means you don't have to buy a separate amplifier, saving money. If you want to save some money, you can drop down to the LSR305, which has a smaller woofer. It will not have as much bass power as the 308, but it costs $200 less for the pair (NOTE: The Amazon link is for a single speaker, not a pair)
   
   Phono Preamp
   
   You'll need one of these, because the signal coming out of the tone arm on the turntable is very low voltage. The phono preamp brings it up to a level that is powerful enough to be amplified further by the speakers. You can spend more, but you don't need more than the Pyle (I have one at home that I'd honestly mail to you, but Amazon Prime is probably cheaper than the cost of shipping for me :P)
   
   Passive Preamp
   
   This is a volume knob and a input switch. That's all. Volume knob because the speakers have the volume knob on the back, and have separate knobs per speaker. Didn't think you'd want to mess with that. Two inputs so you can hook up your turntable and your computer, or your phone, etc.
   
   RCA-to-XLR cable
   
   Because the JBL monitors are targeted at pro recording studios, they use "balanced" XLR cables instead of traditional RCA. The reasons for doing so are irrelevant, but you will need an adapter cable.
   
   If that's too much money
   
   As I said earlier, you could drop down to the JBL LSR305 (again, link is a single speaker, not a pair). That would bring the total down to $818.99. If you wanted to save money, this is where I would do it.
   
   Another option is to switch turntables to the U-Turn Orbit. It starts at $179, but I'd definitely add the cue lever for $40. I wouldn't spend more on other options though, not worth the money. If you go this route, treat this turntable as your starter, then replace it later.
   
   If you tell me your local craigslist, I can look around and see if there are any good deals, but the above is going to be pretty hard to beat.
   
   By all means, feel free to ask me any and all questions. I love doing this kind of research for people, so it's no skin off my back. I want to make sure you enjoy Ride the Lightning in all it's rifftastic glory :D

I teach music production as a side job and from what I have learned, the hardest (in terms of most confusing, not time consuming) yet most important part of getting into music production, is to fully understand the DAW itself.

So don't give up, there are tons of others who have been in your situation.

Personally, I usually approach two things: signal flow and user interface. You'll want to fully understand what gets send where and how to find that place in your software.

You'll want to have a basic understanding of what MIDI data is and what the difference between MIDI, an analog audio signal and a digital audio signal is.

Oversimplifying a little bit MIDI is a data protocol that sends information - usually information like notes being played, at what velocity etc. or controller data (MIDI CC). This data is not to be confused with an audio signal. The Akai keyboard for example uses the MIDI protocol to communicate with Reaper.

Now since MIDI does not contain any audio, but you want to make music, there is something needed to make an audio signal out of the MIDI data you can play on the Akai keyboard. For this, you can use any soft- or hardware synth, sampler etc. These programs/hardware will use the incomming MIDI data to trigger oscillators or play a sample - usually at a certain pitch, depending on the MIDI note's data.

It looks like you already figured some of this out, but didn't quite understand how it worked. Now, the software synthesizers work exactly how you imagined: They are loaded into Reaper as Plugins (usually in VST-format, but can be JS, AU, or other). For this to work, you'll have to tell Reaper where to find them. So I suggest you install them into a common folder and tell Reaper where to find that. (Options->Preferences->Plugins->VST->Add folder via "Open", than "Rescan".)

The octapad can output both, MIDI and audio. Now it really depends on what you want to get from it. Do you want to sounds from the octapad? Or do you just want to use it as a controller to trigger some sampler plugin in Reaper? Depending on that, you'll either need a MIDI to USB interface or a audio to USB interface. There are also interfaces that do both, audio and MIDI. And also interfaces with more fancy features like

• multiple inputs (audio for synth/mics/guitar or MIDI),
  
• (multiple) outputs (to attach speakers to)
  
• zero-latency monitoring
  
• phantom power for condenser mics
  
• better pre-amps for less noise when recording
  
• etc.
  
  Your computer probably even has an audio interface built in without you ever having thought about that. It'll probably not have many features, will not support phantom power, will have not gain adjustment for incoming signals etc, but it could work with your octapad if it has a line-in.
  
  I'm happy to help, but your questions are very vague. Just try to tinker. Experiment, create basic rhythms, work with audio and with MIDI, explore ever feature of Reaper, bit after bit, and you'll soon feel much more comfortable. Getting comfortable is the most important step, since you'll want Reaper to be your laboratory, your tools, an empty canvas. At that point, you'll be able to truly focus on the music. So take your time :)

If you have to use that device as if it's a soundcard device on the laptop, but wireless, the only way I can think of to do this is with some "network USB hub" gear. This will basically extend your usb cable over your LAN (wired or wifi) to allow your laptop to connect to your SE22 as if the USB cable was plugged into the laptop.

Unfortunately, these are hard to come by these days. Belkin made one that I had very good luck with back in like 2012 (used it for professional applications), but although they are still available on amazon, they are discontinued and YMMV getting it to work with Windows 10. There's also this one which I cannot vouch for and it's a bit expensive. Finally, there are software options which you may be able to wire up with another device of your own; perhaps like a raspberry pi or some such. It might be an adventure in learning!

All of these solutions will require a rock-solid fast wifi connection, probably won't handle any communication breaks well, and will introduce a bit of latency into the equation. If you're just trying to play music for listening, this shouldn't matter. But if you're trying to do sound editing or whatnot, it probably will matter. Again, YMMV.

EDIT: Another thought, if you just want to play music through your 8020's ...why do you even need to use the SE22 at all? Just get yourself like a Chromecast Audio (discontinued, yes, but easy to find) and get yourself one of these cables and plug the chromecast directly into your 8020's.

Hi /u/griel1o1 - it's taken me several years and a lot of trial and error - but I have put together a little studio that works. Using what I've learned, you can put together a complete production studio for less than $1000. Here is what I recommend [Referral Links]:

CAMERA:

• [Panasonic DMC-G6 camera with kit lens - $710] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=201073493366&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg). This is the best value for money large sensor, interchangeable lens camera with a video-capable viewfinder, hours of continuous recording and a mic jack below $1000. Links below the equipment list show what this camera can do. DSLRs such as the Canon T2i/T3i/T4i/T5i have viewfinders that go blank when you switch to video mode (blocked by the mirror, which is useless for filmmaking). This forces you to use the LCD for composition and focus - which can be a chalenge outdoors, where the LCD can be washed out by bright sunlight. Many Canon shooters buy expensive LCD viewfinders or Electronic Viewfinders (EVFs) to shoot outdoors. The G6, on the other hand, has a built-in EVF - so outdoor shooting is not a problem.
  
  DSLRs are also limited to 12-30 minutes of continuous recording before they have to be restarted. The G6 can record for hours continuously, without interruption. This can be very helpful for long interviews and speeches.
  
  This camera is also compatible with power zoom lenses, when you can afford them. There are no affordable power zoom lenses for low-end Canon DSLRs.
  
  SUPPORT:
  
  
• [Ravelli AVTP Professional Tripod - $130] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00139W0XM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00139W0XM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). I own this tripod, and it is professional quality, with a 75mm bowl - which allows you to level the camera without adjusting the legs. A huge time saver.
  
  AUDIO:
  
  
• [2 Rode Smart Lavs to plug into iPhones - $120] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=181244511796&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) With the [free Rode Rec LE App] (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/r-de-rec-le/id590021166?mt=8), you can plug these mics into iPhones, sync the audio tracks in the editing suite, and have a pro quality recording solution without buying an external recorder.
  
  
• [SmartLav to camera adapter - $17] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L6C8PNU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00L6C8PNU&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). For shots where you need to plug one of the lavs directly into the camera.
  
  LIGHTING:
  
  
• [LimoStudio 3 point Umbrella Lighting Kit - $50] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005FHZ2SI&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  TOTAL STUDIO COST:
  
  $1027
  
  Here is the image quality this camera can produce:
  
  Documentary:
  
  http://vimeo.com/97274302
  
  http://vimeo.com/73561266
  
  http://vimeo.com/87978429
  
  http://vimeo.com/78507820
  
  Narrative:
  
  http://vimeo.com/78037118
  
  http://vimeo.com/81339712
  
  Music Video:
  
  http://vimeo.com/88584840
  
  http://vimeo.com/84436275
  
  Slow Motion/Sport:
  
  http://vimeo.com/76503135
  
  Travel Video:
  
  http://vimeo.com/88543042
  
  http://vimeo.com/86145944 (shot with a power zoom lens)
  
  Compared to the $3000 Canon 5D Mark III: http://vimeo.com/82318903
  
  There are many more examples on the Panasonic G6 channel I moderate over on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/groups/dmcg6
  
  It's a pretty good still camera too:
  
  https://www.flickr.com/groups/lumix-g6/pool/
  
  https://www.flickr.com/groups/2217639@N20/
  
  Hope this is helpful and saves you some time and money!
  
  Bill
  

My current go-to in this price range is a mix of a Yamaha MG10XU mixer or Scarlett Solo interface with a Shure SM57.

SM57 is a really nice sounding dynamic mic for $100, and sounds pretty much equal to the SM7b and 58 in some videos I watched. This fuzzy thing will also act as a nice pop filter for it and is pretty cheap. I've got one of those big round mesh ones and it still lets some heavy Ps and Ts through, so look at some videos if you go that route.

I personally like to tweak with things in hardware, so i'd go with the Yamaha board since it has a ton of features, but if you just want to plug in the mic to something nice then the Scarlett is also fantastic. I've also been using this Neewer arm for about 6 years, and it does the job.

Headphones wise, I've used the AudioTechnica M50x a few times before and honestly they're the best headphones I've ever heard myself. I also see a lot of people praising the Beyerdynamic DT 990s too.

Keep in mind that if you want to upgrade to a higher-quality microphone or bigger setup, you may have trouble integrating USB gear into that setup, and a better USB microphone will cost much more than an equivalent analog microphone. So, if you see yourself upgrading to a better microphone in the future, or getting a more "professional" sound system, you may want to stray away from USB. If you go for an analog microphone and an audio interface, you will usually have better sound quality at the same price points as well.

With that said, I would go with the MXL 770 and a Focusrite iTrack Solo. I use a Focusrite product myself. These are very capable and well-regarded budget home recording devices.

Now how do we get this in budget? In audio, it's not a bad idea to go used or open box. For example, you can grab a Focusrite iTrack Solo from eBay right now for for $70 or less. Buy the MXL 770 from Amazon, a Neewer boom stand, and a XLR cable, and you've got yourself a very capable and easily upgradable kit for $165. Then, if you want to upgrade in the future, you can jump up to a more pro-level microphone and still support it on the iTrack, or if you need to plug in more microphones or instruments, you can get another interface and still use the MXL 770.

TL;DR I would highly recommend going for a non-usb microphone like the MXL 770 and a budget audio interface. With an extra $25 and some smart shopping, you can get some equipment that sounds better AND will save you money with future upgrades.

Feel free to ask me any questions you have.

Source: Amateur radio producer, person who spent too much and thought too little on his initial audio purchases.

Tascam user here, DR-40 and DR-60D, though I've been wanting to upgrade to the DR-70D. It's like a slightly better 60D.

Anyway, what you'll need is three cables to cover your bases, there's no telling what board the DJ has:

1. RCA to XLR (I use a stereo set, just to be safe)
   
2. Your standard XLR cable (Guitar Center has cheap ones since you don't have time for Amazon)
   
3. Basic 1/4 inch cable (again, Guitar Center will have these cheap)
   
   My RCA has only been used a couple of times, but when they were, I was glad they were in my work box/bag. You never know what someone else is bringing, so there are all the ports you'll have to contend with.
   
   Now, the unit itself. You want to use the XLR ports, either 1 or both 1&2 depending on what cables you get and the DJ's output. I wouldn't worry about stereo here, he's likely working in mono, so we'll focus on input 1. I'm using my DR-60D for refference, but Tascam generally uses similar menu systems for all of their devices, so it should be close.
   
   First, go into the [Menu] and select [Rec Mode]. Use the scroll wheel to select and click on [Rec Mode], then scroll to [Dual Mono] and click the wheel. Make sure the source is Ch 1. What Dual Recording does is it records the same file twice, but one has reduced volume. I have mine set to -12dB. This has saved my ass more than once, especially on mics I have set up that I can't access once the ceremony has started.
   
   Back in the [Menu], select [Input Setting], and make sure the settings are up for Ch 1. Set gain to Med. Make sure to get a level test before recording and leaving it be, you may need to switch it to Low.
   
   Next, make sure the input for Ch1 is set to Mic Input. My unit has a switch for this, but yours doesn't seem to, so it's probably in the menu, maybe in [Input Settings]. Mic is for general inputs (like a sound board or a lav mic receiver), Line is for things like amps (I don't use Line much), and Mic+Phantom is for mics that need power, like shotgun mics or voice-over mics.
   
   You should be set to record. MAKE SURE THE RECORD LIGHT IS SOLID. MOST TASCAM MODELS ALLOW FOR PRE-RECORD, WHERE YOU CAN MONITOR AND THE LIGHT BLINKS. IF THE TIMECODE IS NOT MOVING FORWARD AND THE LIGHT ISN'T SOLID, IT ISN'T RECORDING. Next, flip the [Hold] switch on the side so no one accidentally stops the recording (it's the same as a hold switch on an iPod, restricts input). You can still adjust levels while in [Hold] mode, since you have dials, but you won't be able to cut or make adjustments. I find it handy to idiot-proof it, or make sure my hand doesn't slip.
   
   Have fun, and use your H1 as a backup ambient mic. Always have one or two backups. And get a Rode VideoMic pro if you already haven't, saved my ass on more than one wedding.

I got this one. Works great 👍

It just takes a regular 3.5mm trs (Tip ring sleeve) cable like everything usually uses and it converts it to 3.5mm trrs (tip ring ring sleeve) which some devices like iPads and iPhones and tablets and such need in order to know that it’s an incoming signal and to be able to record instead of like when you plug in a pair of headphones for example, which the phone senses as outgoing and will then push audio.

Movo MC3 3.5mm TRS (Female) Microphone Adapter Cable to TRRS (Male) for iPhone and Android Smartphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9CJDVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-X3tDbRJ8HNW7

It’s worth the investment. I use mine al the time for quick recording sessions for music ideas. Sound quality is much better than the built in mic on the phone. Do some reading, it’s fun to learn. It’ll definitely do you good and if you need better quality you can get into different interfaces and stuff. It’s not difficult to learn, it’s just a lot of little things,
just take it in pieces and have fun with it 🙂

You need a very specific type of cable - known as a "DJ splitter cable" - to do this.

Regular headphone splitters plug in to an output which has L and R channels, and it splits both of those channels to both sockets. So each socket gets a copy of L on the L-wires and a copy of R on the R-wires.

A DJ splitter cable sends L only to one of the sockets and R only to the other. They're either mono sockets or the signal is bridged across what are normally "the L and R wires".

This means software can send the "finished mix" out of only the computer's LEFT channel, your headphone/cue track out of the RIGHT, and the special splitter cable sends those sides to entirely different sockets plugged in to different devices. Typically, speakers for the finished mix and headphones for cueing.

You don't absolutely need an external soundcard, but moving forward that is certainly a better solution. It's far easier if you get a controller with in-built soundcard, as that will take care of it for you (and won't require an extra box and USB connection and complication).

Something like this one by Native Instruments or this one by Griffin is what you're looking for. If the description doesn't talk about "Allows separate headphone cue and master output" or "Wired to enable Split Output mode" then you probably aren't looking at the right sort of cable.

These cables are often sold as iphone/ipad accessories, as they are very valuable if using ipad DJing apps to give you the split-mode output. But they work just fine on general computers - they're just a special configuration of wires and plug/sockets.

Go to a music shop or guitar center and play with some guitars. The first thing I over looked was the mass of the neck, they very slightly. The Ibanez SR's and a many others have a thinner "fast neck," which is fantastic for me. I managed to buy a guitar and a bass that had thicker necks and were uncomfortable for me to play starting out, it would not be in a traditional posture while you're trying to learn.

Then talk to them about finding you something used. You can get a used guitar for 1/2 to 1/3 the MSRP. It's really awesome..

I just picked up my Ibanez SR800 today and am euphoric.. It was $265, came setup, new strings and excellent intonation, no buzz or action. So I didn't have to do much other than tune it in, which it was just off. Very little cosmetic scratches, no dings or bad scratches, fantastic condition. :)))))))))))))

So going used you may have some extra fees like doing a setup at the store or buying strings and intonation, but you still save a fortune. Learning to do it yourself is imperative, that's a few bucks in tools. Pro's will set up your guitar strings within a millimeter, probably not, they're supposed to though. The tuning key's for intonation are like $45 for the set.

Amps (10-20watt is fine for a bedroom, I had a 100w too)and phones and things are a bit trickier used. They can be blown or have other electrical issues.

Most amps come with headphone jacks 1/4th inch or 3.5mm, you can get a 1/4th adapter for a few bucks for your 3.5mm headphones. I haven't seen much USB. Oh, types of headphones.. Regular stereo is fine, but you will want "monitor" headphones like Audio Technica A31's or something like that. These are for audio production, which have various higher and lower frequencies than ordinary stereo phones, so you will hear every imperfection in audio, they aren't for ordinary listening. x_x

Also, Instrument Jack to USB Cable, these are 16 bit and sound terrible but you can hook up directly to your computer.

Make sure you have a return policy with your gear!

I am also playing you the software "Yousician" (1 free lesson a day, $9.99 a month) it's like "Rocksmith" they're fun games and you will learn a lot!

Steam's a legit service. It's the most used client/store for PC gaming. If you don't trust Steam you could use Uplay as well, which is Ubisoft's client. I'm pretty sure Rocksmith's on Uplay. It doesn't really matter which you get it from if playing a PC game's like a one time thing for you. A second hand copy will work on a console but there's no second hand when it comes to Steam and Uplay. FYI you'll need a 1/4" to USB cable if you get it on Steam or Uplay.

Rocksmith on Steam

Cable that should work

Official cable

Apart from being able to learn some select songs on Rocksmith, one sorta cool feature on it is session mode which lets you jam with the game itself. You choose what instruments you want to be playing in the background and it'll play certain riffs and shit according to what you're playing. Another cool thing about the game is you can learn bass guitar as well. Only downside to the game imo is the DLC's expensive. Some song that ain't in the game by default's like 3 or 4 USD. Also take a look through the song list of the game before buying to make sure you'd be satisfied with their selection.

Well, here is a Hosa Pro 5 foot HMIC-005 cable

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-HMIC-005-XLR3F-XLR3M-Microphone/dp/B004TP4IZU

and a 10 foot HMIC-010

https://www.amazon.com/HMIC-010-XLR3F-XLR3M-Microphone-Cable/dp/B004TPDBGC/

which is a common length election since you didn't suggest what you wanted.

The audio on cheap cables is likely the same but better cables have better shielding which is nice but not a huge deal for short runs at home, and better connectors with better strain relief so they are less likely to be damaged and need to be replaced. There are better cables but they are three or more times as expensive for little gain. And Hosa Pro have a lifetime warranty.

!

For the JBL LSR305, I obviously know I will not need an amp since they are powered speakers, but I was wondering what the best solution would be to connect them easily to an ipod, computer etc...

I'm imagining a 3.5mm to xlr such as the one listed below, however I am not too sure since I've never had speakers with these types of inputs. Please help me out with the best cost/performance cabling option for these speakers, amazon preferred.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-XVM-110M-Right-Angle-3-5mm/dp/B000K6B2DI/

That's not really going to get you much as far as usable audio goes, and leaves you nothing for a boompole/cables/etc.

I'm guessing your short films have dialogue? The on-camera (which camera are you using?) mic will not work. Sorry, it sounds like absolute shit 90% of the time. You'll want a boompole (which you can make yourself- look online).

You're going to want to buy used. I'll copy-paste a reply I wrote elsewhere:


On the cheap, will exceed your budget though:

Tascam DR-40 or DR-05. You should go for the 40. Built-in mics for ambiance (probably shouldn't use these to get dialogue unless you absolutely have to). Decent recorder, takes AA's, and can be found used for around $150. http://used.guitarcenter.com/usedgear/index.cfm has one for $150, search for "tascam dr40" and it'll pop up. Talk 'em down on the price, too.

I haven't used the DR-05 so I can't vouch for the quality of it's inputs, but at this price you won't be getting class A preamps. It is what it is, but read the reviews and find which cheap recorder is the most usable for this purpose.

Audio-Technica AT835B. It's AA battery-powered so you don't need phantom mic power on your recorder. One used will run you from $1-175 Here's one on ebay for $165 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audio-Technica-AT835b-Shotgun-Mic-w-clip-windscreen-cable-prior-to-AT8035-/290759720787?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b2a13f53

Build a boom pole. There a lot of tutorials on the internet on how to do it for free or cheap, depending on what you have around your house.
Build or buy a shockmount for the mic. A basic shockmount starts at around $30-40.

Buy/acquire/borrow an XLR-1/8" cable. The mic output is XLR female and the input on most recorders in this price range is 1/8" (otherwise known as "headphone jack-sized"). $7-10. Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-XVM-110M-Right-Angle-3-5mm/dp/B000K6B2DI/ref=pd_cp_e_1 (if you're booming it you'll want at least a 15' cord)

Headphones. You might have some around. Ideally I'd say borrow or use the best ones you can get. Don't use ones with "super bass" or anything. You want them as flat-sounding as possible.

And finally: do some studying on audio. Practice a lot. And don't forget to clap to sync your audio track and video track for post.

It's gonna be hard to get it in under $75, but in your position here's what I'd do:

Get one of these Audio Technica cardioid lavalier mics. While it's designed to be a lavalier mic, it is directional and can be used on a boom when needed. This mic requires "plug-in" power and will work with most DSLRs. (Check your camera first). You can record on a smart phone with this adapter.

You'll also need an extension cable. While a headphone extension cable will work, one made for a microphone will be shielded and less likely to pick up noise. Since this is an unbalanced microphone, you should be careful to keep the cable away from any kind of power cord.

Because this mic is so lightweight you can use almost anything for a boom. I have used an old fishing pole, but a broom handle or even a straightened coat hanger will work. Let the mic hang straight down from the boom, leaving about 6-10 inches of cable. Hold it just above the people's heads, just in front of them, as close as possible without being in the shot.

I have used this mic on quite a few films and commercials (including a film that's now on Amazon Video) and the quality is remarkably good. Working on several films in Europe where it was essential to travel very light, this mic was a lifesaver.

That's about as close as I can come to $75!

Hope this helps.

The headset that broke was the G35 headset from Logitech which goes for about $90 these days. It's a great headset but this would be my 3rd set in 4 years. The mic quality is average and often requires fussing with in post but overall it's a great headset.

While rocking this backup setup I've been using ear buds and I quite like it compared to the closed ear noise cancelling headset so I don't think I want to go the headset route again.

I've always wanted to go the XLR/Mixer route. This would allow me to manipulate any volume/noise issues with the mic on the fly and not touch it at all in post. I never settled on a solution that was afforable and always went with what I knew the G35.

This is the goal. It's not much more expensive than the G35 headset but is the correct tool for the job :Þ

• Audio-Technica AT2020 XLR ^USB ^version ^exists ^too
  
• Behringer Q502USB 5-Channel Mixer
  
• XLR Microphone Cable
  
• Microphone Suspension Boom
  
  A few notes about these choices. The 5 channel mixer is total overkill but this one functions as a USB audio interface meaning when you plug it in to your PC it shows up like a USB mic would. Behringer makes a 3 port USB mixer but I don't like the way it looks lol.
  
  Not all mixers have the ability to function as a USB device. On NON USB mixers you would have to run the output of the mixer into the input on your soundcard on your PC.
  
  I prefer the audio device approach. You plug your XLR mic into the mixer which is acting as the USB audio device. This allows you to control on the mixer what the computer hears on the audio device interface.
  
  Totally a long and involved answer but some might find it useful if in the market for audio upgrades :Þ

I hope I'm posting this in the right place.

I'm looking for a low-end solution for recording vocals, connected to a PC.

I have absolutely no experience whatsoever with audio hardware. My wife loves to sing - and though I am of course biased, I think she's pretty good at it - and so I want to get her a gift of some recording equipment.

I'm not looking for anything high-end; I'd like for it to be "decent", but it doesn't have to be professional level hardware. I'd like to be able to get everything for somewhere between $300-400 if possible. So, specifically, I'm looking for...

1. A microphone for vocals (with a stand, or stand separate)
   
   
2. A way to hook everything up to the PC (for use with something like FL Studio or Audacity)
   
   I assume there might need to be an amp in there somewhere? I don't know, I don't know anything about this stuff.
   
   Would anyone please be willing to give me some recommendations on parts, and what specifically I will need? Thank you.
   
   Edit: Okay, what about this?
   
   AT-2020 Mic
   
   Scarlett Solo USB Interface
   
   Mic Stand
   
   Pop Filter
   
   XLR Cable
   
   Seinnheser HD280 Headphones

Copy/paste of a budget setup I've been putting together lately:

• 1 x Pile Pro PDMIC78 for snare
  
• 1 x CAD KBM412 for kick
  
• 2 LDCM's for overheads, AT 2020 is a classic, but you can certainly go cheaper with some no-name condensers.
  
• Behringer UMC404HD for an interface. It has 4 mic preamps, which will work much better for drums than the 2-in AudioBox or the Scarlet 2i4 that always comes up on these threads.
  
• 4 x mic cables
  
• 1 x low profile boom stand for the kick mic
  
• 1 x mic clip for the snare mic
  
• 2 x Boom stands for overheads
  
• Download Reaper, use the free trial
  
  I think all told that runs you about $400, but you can use that to set up a solid Glyn Johns set up. If you want to multitrack the rest of a band, the Pyle will work well on guitar cabs, you can DI the bass and use the kick mic on the cab, and condenser mics will do pretty much anything else. I have a better setup for doing final takes, but this is more or less my current setup for demos.
  
  Also, if you're really strapped for cash, you can start with just the interface and one condenser mic, although it won't be great. From there, get the kick and snare mics, then a second OH when you have the money.

I tried a mic last fall after launch. No go. I asked for support for this by email and in an early AMA. It wasn't really acknowledged. Someone else asked in a much later AMA (Spring maybe), Essential said "good idea" but haven't seen anything of it yet... I haven't tried again either.

Thing is, if using a 3.5mm jack, make sure you're using the proper plug. You may need an adapter like this one - https://www.amazon.com/Rode-SC4-inches-Microphone-Cable/dp/B00L6C8PN0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539095571&sr=8-3&keywords=rode+smartphone+adapter

​

Notice the "pins" (or separators in the jack). There's 3 black lines that separate the connections in the jack. I don't remember the order, but each section is for left audio out, right audio out, mic in, and ground. If you don't have all 3 sections on your jack, then the sections aren't lining up properly to the phone's jack connection / adapter. Mic In might be being treated as an audio out or ground instead.

You can test mic recording support with standard headphones with inline mic. Tap the inline mic while recording. The audio should "pop" when you tap it if it's recording through that mic. If it's recording through the phone's mic, it won't hear that tap since you're not hitting the mic that's recording.

I'm not sure why it worked on the S7 or how you're connecting your mic(s). It's always possible Samsung might have implemented a dynamic 3.5mm jack that can change from output to input like a lot of modern laptops. I don't believe that's built into stock Android.

Also, I want to add that just because the Essential camera app doesn't record from an external mic doesn't mean a 3rd party camera app can't. I don't know of one to recommend, but something to explore.

Regarding USB-C mics, I'm not sure if/what will work. Same for Bluetooth. I'd assume they'll work, but again it might not with the stock camera app.

Hey, just wanted to follow up on this. I got this working using a standard stereo aux cable and a TRS Female to TRRS Male adapter. I got mine at a local shop, but I'm pretty certain this is the exact same one. though I only paid $5 for mine.

So, yes, the iPad Mini 2 has a mic input in the headphone jack (TRRS), you just need to convert the signal from TRS to TRRS.

Thanks for everyone's help, I might still pick up one of these iRig adapters, but this is the smallest and cheapest I can find.

Bought these for my kids Sennheiser GSP 600 Professional Gaming Headset

Overall, pretty good. Comfortable, FAR above average fidelity for a gaming headset, mic is probably one of the best mics I've ever used that is part of a gaming headset. Again, my kids like them.

I personally don't like gaming headsets.

My personal gaming rig does not use "gaming" headsets.

I use regular low end audiophile headphones paired with a mixer + mic.

• beyerdynamic dt990 pro I prefer the open back headphones for the wider soundstage. VERY comfortable for long play sessions.
  
  
• FiiO E17K (E17) Alpen 2 Portable Headphone Amplifier USB DAC
  
  
• Yamaha MG10XU 10 Channel Mixer
  
  Again this is solely for gaming and not listening to music.
  
  For music it depends what I'm listening to but I have two primary set of cans.
  
  
• Sennheiser HD 800 S Reference Headphone
  
  
• Beyerdynamic T1 2nd Generation
  
  This is my primary amp for music:
  
  
• Sony Signature Series Audio Component Amplifier
  
  I caught the "headphone" bug so I've got tons of mid range cans too e.g. Sennheiser HD660, HD700, a couple of tube amps etc.
  
  Hope it helps.
  
  
  
  

Well, by cheap I dont know what your budget is. But if you want a good sounding microphone for talking, find a one that is a studio/condenser microphone. It will require a usb powered pre-amp audio interface or a simple usb adapter for computer use because it comes with an XLR connection. Best bet would be to go to music stores and search for studio microphone you like depending on the price, and then buy the usb preamp or adapter separately. Also buy a pop filter.

If your budget is 7-10K, I would recommend MXL company ones and then buy usb adapters like this. MXL last very long. If you have extra budget then buy a usb preamp audio interface(make sure there is an xlr connection). The reason why the audio interface is so you have a direct hardware monitoring. They don't have any delays if you plan on hearing live through headphones.

This was my setup MXL 2008, M-Audio Fast Track. I used this for guitar and song recordings.

I can be your google: direct from Native Instruments or from Amazon. They’re cheap and great for newbies, as well as awesome super emergency backups or minimalistic “I don’t feel like using other gear and my laptop soundcard is good enough” events.

Mics:

• Cascade M39 Stereo Pair Small Condenser Microphones = $160/pr
  
• Blue Spark Large Diaphragm Condenser = $200/ea
  
• GLS Audio Professional Microphone ES-57 - 3 Pack = $85
  
• Total = $445
  
  This gets you enough versatility to capture everything you listed and be able to get choosy with tone.
  
  Interface/Software:
  
  
• Focusrite Scarlett 8i6 = $250
  
• Cockos Reaper = $ Nothing, really until you want to spend the $60 on the full version
  
• Misc plugins = just Google and read around about good free plugins to start with (if that)
  
• Total = $250
  
  The Scarlett gets you 4 tracks of simultaneous recording. If you can get even decent drum sounds out of 4 tracks, you'll be a boss when you step up to 8 or 16 tracking. As for the software, I'd start with Reaper and see if you like it. In the meantime, get demos of various other DAWs like Cubase or something and see if it makes any sense to you. If you find a DAW that seems appealing to you, try it. Even if you have to pirate it, give it a go and see if it's worth the money to you.
  
  Monitoring:
  
  
• A pair of JBL LSR2325P Monitors = $400
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-M50S Headphones = $160
  
• Total = $560
  
  Those JBLs are nice. Do not use the headphones as a crutch, only to reference when mixing or for close (or isolated) listening when tracking. All will be good.
  
  Accessories:
  
  
• GLS Audio 25ft Mic Cables (XLR/XLR = $15/ea (let's say get two of them) = $30
  
• On Stage Stands Stand = $30/ea (again, let's say two) = $60
  
• A pair of Live Wire Balanced Patch Cables = $16 ($7.99/ea) - for your monitors
  
• A pair of GLS Audio 25ft Mic Cables (XLR/TS) = $30
  
• Foambymail.com Monitor Isolation Wedges = $10
  
• Total = $146
  
  I disagree with djpeef about getting a MudGuard. It's very unnecessary unless you plan on doing voiceover work.
  
  Subtotal = $1401
  
  With $99 bucks left you can get a MIDI controller if you'll be needing one.
  I think that about covers it...

>Both have the small bar on the cord with the volume up and down buttons.

Well, I'm not too familiar with these, so I'm not sure if that's where the microphone is. The best way to make sure is to see if the cable end you're plugging into your receiver looks like this - or if it looks like this. If it's the latter, you'll run into the problem I've described earlier. You'll could obtain a cable from Bose for a hassle free solution, or experiment with adapters - I say experiment because pinouts can vary.

This is my megaboard from last week. Still working on the cable management. Hoping to use some of these to clean up the looks here soon. I replaced my FAB chorus on it with my Ibanez PC10, and I'm loving having a wet/dry flanger in the mix. Will post more audio clips at request of anything on here (Check my post history for a clearer photo of this thing).

Hummm this is my shopping list for the cheapest usable equipment I could find, the interface is for 8 people so don’t get that lol and the prices are for 4 people but this is about the best I can think of (they’re might be cheaper stands and getting a shorter xlr cable might be a good idea but this is kinda a baseline)

4 Microphones $80https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=pd_aw_sim_267_1/134-4918017-9581726?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002KZAKS&pd_rd_r=67247d59-873d-11e9-b9fc-e96a8f51671e&pd_rd_w=rl713&pd_rd_wg=YUNRU&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=43C56ST8VNKF3SY65G3P&psc=1&refRID=43C56ST8VNKF3SY65G3P

4 Pop filters $40https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Stabilizing-Recordings-Broadcasting/dp/B01N21H9WY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=pop%2Bfilter&qid=1559702707&s=gateway&sr=8-4&th=1&psc=1

4 XLR cables $40 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003JJQMD8/ref=psdcmw_11973421_t2_B00018CXV0

5 Microphone stands $60
https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Upgraded-Adjustable-Microphone-Snowball/dp/B07F82BPLV/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?keywords=microphone+stand&qid=1559703326&s=gateway&sprefix=microphone+st&sr=8-20

Audio interface $150
Amazon.com: BEHRINGER Audio Interface, 4-Channel (UMC404HD): Gateway

Total: $370

Hi /u/The_Movie_Kid - congratulations on your new camera. As a start, here's a great tutorial on microphone selection from Wistia: http://wistia.com/learning/choosing-a-microphone

Sadly, your T3i has noisy preamps that will degrade your sound quality even with an external microphone.

The least expensive solution is probably to buy a [$50 mic with a TRRS jack] (http://amzn.to/1v6obcz) or a standard mic with a [$20 TRS to TRRS adapter] (http://amzn.to/1wwaBSR) and plug it into your phone. If you have an iPhone, you can use [Rode Rec LE] (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/r-de-rec-le/id590021166?mt=8) (free) to record your audio and match it to your video in the editing suite with software like [PluralEyes] (http://www.adorama.com/RDGSHOPLURD.html?KBID=66297), which is about $179 for a non-student version.

Good luck!

Hey I heard someone say dynamic microphones are better for noisy enviroments because you have to have them closer to you, right? I have no experience with xlr, but would this setup work?

Mic: Shure SM 58
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AQRSU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Mic Holder:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EEHM8U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A311BEHFUHRLQM

Mic Stand: Rode PSA1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D7UYBO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (I think since the mic is dynamic, I don't need it right?)

Phantom Power ?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XUUXB8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

XLR Cable ?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RYE5Y6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AD6O342M484G6

XLR to USB cable ?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6WZGHS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1155GBV4DPEXU (If I don't need phantom power, I just need this cable right?)

Generic wind screen:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002GXF8Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I know this isn't ideal because I need like a mixer or something, but would it work decently? I would prefer if the price stayed the same, this is pushing my budget a bit.

Oh, and do I need an adapter for my microphone to go into the stand, stuff like that.

A standard 3.5mm male to female extender but it needs to be TRRS (4 pole)

I bought this one for my car and it works perfectly http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4FU52C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm waiting to get this one to keep in my wallet in case I need it at a friends house/party/etc
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX8XIDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You're going to need a mixer, to take the audio from the microphones and the karaoke backing track and then put out the final version (also some people sing louder than others so you'll need to be able to adjust individual volumes).
This means you'll also need an amplifier, as most TV's don't have an audio in connection.
This means you'll also need speakers.

You could look at getting some decent amplified speakers, you only need one if you're doing this in a home.

Lastly, look into something like Karafun initially as the software. You can take out a 48 hour subscription for about £5 and then you have access to all their songs. Just read about no internet at farm, not even wireless data that you can tether via mobile phone?

So to recap, you need to purchase:

• Microphones (those KAMs will be fine)
  
• 2 XLR cables to connect microphones to mixer (two of these for instance http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-High-Quality-Microphone-Cable/dp/B002YUAK54/)
  
• Mixer (only needs to be a small four channel one, something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Input-Bus-Mixer/dp/B000J5XS3C/)
  
• Cable to connect audio out on laptop to the mixer (this needs to be a stereo 3.5mm connector to dual mono 1/4" connectors like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMP-159-3-5mm-Stereo-Breakout/dp/B005HGM1D6/)
  
• Either an amp + speakers, or, a powered speaker (something like this http://www.whybuynew.co.uk/speakers/qtx-sound-paj12a-paj-12a-active-speaker.htm)
  
• A cable to connect the mixer to the speaker, or amplifier, so a 1/4" to phono cable (make sure it's a long one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-STC3PCM-Twin-Phono-Cable/dp/B0030LWZDG/
  
• A long HDMI cable for your laptop (I'm assuming based on your post that the laptop has HDMI out)
  
• Software, look at Karafun, it's likely to do what you need and has all the songs
  
• Look at http://KaraokeDownloads.ca, it works out about £0.62 a song if you buy a 75 song credit pack from them
  
  Random question, I gather you're UK based, are you anywhere near London?

You need something like this. A TS instrument cable to USB with analog to digital converter built in.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Guitar-Cable-Adapter-Recording/dp/B00834KJ60/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481562843&sr=8-3&keywords=guitar+usb+cable

It's generic there are lots of them rebranded but essentially the same.

https://www.amazon.com/VAlinks-Interface-Connector-Instruments-GarageBand/dp/B01EV0V58A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481562843&sr=8-2&keywords=guitar+usb+cable

For regular Rocksmith 2014 on PC you just need https://github.com/Maxx53/NoCableLauncher

The launcher switches the hardware ID for your interface so Rocksmith thinks its a rocksmith cable. I have one of those but prefer using my interface. That will let you use the $10 with rocksmith.

The neewer cable in the first amazon link has the review I did on my wifes account with the screenshots of bias FX and the settings I used in ASIO4ALL which is why I linked it.

To get low latency you just need ASIO4ALL drivers which are free. ASIO is a low latemcy Audio streaming standard for the PC developed by steinberg and is what all the high end interfaces use. The ASIO4ALL drivers let you use ASIO4ALL with any kind of input.

http://www.asio4all.com/

The PC specs don't have to be too high since the cable electronics takes care of converting the signal to a digital one. You just need an ok CPU to handle the modeling amp and effects software. Your I5 and onboard sound should be fine assuming it has some kind of realtek audio chip on the motherboard.

Ah right, absolutely then. yes, you can use your keyboard to control any software instrument, most of these are called VST instruments.

You will need either a midi interface like this:
http://m-audio.com/products/view/midisport-2x2-anniversary-edition

and a midi lead
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068NTU/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_boEpr_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=R6PNXDH5RM040WAQNS86&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=99ef2030-b386-50e5-bf67-36b72f770aed&pf_rd_i=11973431

or an all in one solution like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ACGMOA6/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_boEpr_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=QQCDXH8WPKS6ZHCWB6TS&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=99ef2030-b386-50e5-bf67-36b72f770aed&pf_rd_i=11973431

you could start with FLstudio, there are loads of tutorials and a good unlimited demo

http://www.image-line.com/downloads/flstudiodownload.html

FL studio has its own instruments, but you can get a whole load of VST instruments for free

http://bedroomproducersblog.com/free-vst-plugins/

Get the cheapest keyboard you can, imo. I think the money would be better spent on monitors (speakers) or headphones, depending on whether you have any already. If you have decent listening devices already, then don't splurge for sure and just use what you have. By decent I basically mean not the earbuds that came with your phone, or speakers that can relatively play everything in the frequency range from ~50 Hz to 20,000 Hz.

The DAW (Digital Audio Workstation.... i.e. FL Studio, LMMS, Ableton, or whatever you choose) is going to be where the real heavy lifting is done. The keyboard will basically be a controller for using the software. You could make the same stuff without it, albeit you would have to draw the notes in.

So, my opinion would be to go as absolutely cheap as possible. I have one of these and I just plug it into my roommate's ~$100 keyboard he got from Costco when I feel like it. Basically, my advice is to get the USB-to-MIDI converter and find a keyboard with MIDI outputs on the back.

You said you play piano? On, like, a real piano? If it is electronic you might just be able to use what you already have. Look on the back and see if it has a MIDI OUT port.

I purchased an FX Audio DAC-X6 a couple years ago based on this review. It's a good value pick and has been great with my Beyerdynamic DT 770 80 ohm headphones. It has an optical input that I use with my PS4 and a USB input for my PC with a switch to toggle between the inputs. If you don't get this one, just make sure you find a DAC/amp with optical input.

As for your microphone, most budget DAC/amps don't have an audio input or relay so you still need to run your mic into the controller, or get a USB microphone adapter. I got this TRS/TRRS adapter and plug the boom mic attached to my headphones into it.

TL;DR

Headphones > FX Audio DAC-X6 \> PS4 optical out

Microphone > TRS/TRRS adapter \> PS4 controller headphone jack

EDIT: or you could just get this: https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blasterx-g5

Hey thanks so much for the help! Just for clarity, would something like this allow me to run 2 speakers connected only to my controller? (that way I don't need a mixer?)

https://www.amazon.com/Stagg-STC3CMXM-Male-Twin-Cable/dp/B003SOR6UC/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0CSYMG319ZZ5KGDXQ0G7

I'm not using any TS or TRRS connectors for the sm7b, it connects via usb. This is the xlr to usb cable I bought. It's used to connect the arttube to my pc. I believe I configured it correctly, with or without the phantom power running, the hiss is still there. I should definitely try taking it a friend's house though, thanks for suggesting that.

The only solution I can think of would be to find a weird female USB to TS and hope it works like my combination headset. Or perhaps this cable?

Unfortunately I'm no expert in the area.

You'd probably be better asking in something like /r/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Getting a mixer second hand is probably your best bet, but off the top of my head you'd need something like:

• Behringer 802 - 8 Input 2 Bus Mixer
  
• Dynamic XLR Microphones x2
  
• XLR cables x2
  
• Dual 1/4 inch jacks to 3.5mm Microphone Jack cable
  
  But please ask some experts, I've no idea if that setup would actually work. You'll be needing those 6 things though (1x Mixer, 2x Mics, 2x Mic Cables and 1x 3.5mm Mic jack to Mixer connection cable), maybe not those specific models though.

Thanks for this!. I just actually contacted Zoom directly (have a contact) and figured out that I can use a Rode SC4 (or similar) into my smartphone, and then a 3.5mm male to make into the H6 to get the audio from the H6 to play through smartphone. I purchased these two products.... Should these do the trick?:


Movo MC3 3.5mm TRS (Female) Microphone Adapter Cable to TRRS (Male) for iPhone & Android Smartphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9CJDVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8nh3Cb2W23310

DuKabel Top Series Long Audio Cable 26 Feet (8 Meters) - Shielded Aux Cable Cord 3.5mm Male to Male Stereo Auxiliary Cable Cord/Crystal-Nylon Braided / 24K Gold Plated / 99.99% 4N OFC Conductor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PHSR9T2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Doh3CbF8FZ03H

Ah - okay, I read your original question a little closer and yeah you could get a MIDI -> USB cable to run your Volca directly into the computer. But the latency may still be a thing.


Its definitely cheaper than getting a new Audio Interface to get the cable - but at the same time I personally would want a one box solution.


And an 80s sci-fi movie prop? Dang, that exposes my aesthetic preferences, lol.

Really, you dont absolutely need a mixer to run these from a phone, computer, ipad or whatever. Those speakers are self powered and have RCA inputs so you can get one of these cords and hook it right up to the first speaker and then get a couple of these XLR cables and link the next two speakers in a chain from the first.

If you really just want a mixer for more control over the EQs and volume, literally, any mixer will work. You don't need a 12 channel live sound mixer or anything fancy like that. I'd just get a, cheap, two channel DJ mixer. Search amazon and I'm sure you'll find one that looks good for you.

There is absolutely no reason to have a wireless headset for the PS4, because the controller has a headset hookup right on it, which works great. Save yourself $75 to $100 and buy a nice wired headset. All you need to hook it up to the controller is something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D6NPH88/

If the wire sticking out at the bottom of your controller bothers you, you can also pick up this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX8XIDK/

Okay, thanks a bunch. So for example this for the chromecast and then this for the xlrs? Also maybe a dumb question but how does the chromecast work with everything, like where do I plug it in? Wouldn't I have to plug it in to all three to get it to work for all three or is that not how it works? Again, thanks.

Hmm, it seems that Amazon is listing a new unit for nearly $200. That is EXPENSIVE. I bought mine for half that price -- the controller really isn't worth more than $100 to be honest. So you might wanna search around, and get a better controller + this NI cable that will help separate master output and headphones (so you don't have to invest in a sound card)

https://www.amazon.com/Native-Instruments-Traktor-8-Inch-iPhone/dp/B00E411NG6/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1467807772&sr=8-21&keywords=Traktor

You need quite a bit of help getting started, take your time to read the manuals. Providing a link to your keyboard would help greatly.

• Modern MIDI devices almost always come with USB and not MIDI interfaces. Typically you plug your keyboard in USB directly to the computer
  
• Vintage MIDI devices require a round circular 5 pin DIN connector
  
• The Audio Interface that you bought doesn't have one of these 5 pin DIN connectors!
  
• It's not a really big deal even if you do need to use vintage MIDI DIN. You can buy a separate USB to MIDI DIN and not use one with the audio interface - it doesn't really matter. These adapters are cheap!
  
  You would probably benefit greatly from taking a class before you get too far. Go to Coursera and sign up to audit this Music Prodcution class. It will cover all the basic ins and outs of how to get started with computer music production.

How old is the old controller? I know that you haven't gotten a response in 3 months, but your most likely problem is that the new controllers have a cheaper alternative for the headphone port. The 4-pole connection shorts out when you try and use higher voltage items like headsets with in-line mics.

You basically will need to simply get an adapter or extension cable. This is one some people have had success with: click here.

Any 4-Pole 3.5mm Female-to-Male adapter will work, however. You'll just need to attach the adapter first, wait 3-5 seconds, then attach your headphones to the jack. Should work after that. If not, you might have a bad controller.

Good luck!

Sounds like a fun project!

 

I'd be concerned about timing and performance. If I was tasked with this project, I would be looking at the audio recording device very closely, cheap usb audio adapters might not cut it as quality and latency is a primary concern with recording real-time audio loops. FYI the Raspberry Pi audio jack is output only.

 

If you have the cash I would check out the [Pi-DAC audio card](https://www.tindie.com/products/IQaudIO/iqaudiocom-pi-dac-audio-card-with-headphone-support-for-the-raspberry-pi-b/
) by IQaudIO, it is made for the Raspberry Pi. If you are on a budget then you could try this cheap USB guitar audio adapter.

 

You'll need to install Debian for Raspberry Pi and ALSA

 

If your using USB audio and USB keyboard for trigging the recording you will need a small USB hub. External power supply might be required too.

> M MAKA Patch Cables

Sweet :) thanks.

fixed the link for you
M MAKA Patch Cables

No worries man! JBL>TRS to RCA>Schiit Sys>RCA to 3.5mm>Laptop. Plug the XLR connection into each speaker and then plug the other end of the XLR cable which is an RCA connection into the Sys output. Then plug the rca to the sys's input. Then plug the other end of the RCA input cables which is an AUX aka 3.5mm plug into your laptop. Another note is to make sure you have a long enough power cable for the JBLs as the one it comes with it quite short. Monoprice makes good cheap power cables such as this. Let me know if you have any other questions; I'd be happy to help!

The JBL LSR305 expects line level inputs via balanced XLR or 1/4" TRS connector.

The SVS SB12-NSD expects line level inputs via stereo RCA connectors, and can pass through line-level and high-pass outputs via stereo RCA connectors.

The AT-LP60 has phono and line outs through stereo RCA connectors.

Your laptop probably has a 1/8" stereo TRS connector.

Working backwards from your JBL, you can use a stereo 1/4" TS to RCA cable to connect the speakers to the line or low-pass RCA outputs on the SVS. Check your JBL manual to ensure that a 1/4" TS cable will not cause issues in its TRS jack. An alternative is to use an RCA to TRS cable.

In order to switch your signal source between your computer and your turntable, you'll need an RCA source selector. You can also use stereo receiver or pre-amplifier with source selection.

In order to get your computer's audio output from its line out to the splitter or receiver, you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA splitter cable. That cable will also work for a Coaxial SPDIF digital signal if you go with a receiver, and both the receiver and computer support Coaxial SPDIF. Your computer and the receiver may also support a SPDIF over TOSLINK, for which you'll need a TOSLINK cable. Note that TOSLINK cables and jacks come in two physically incompatible connectors.

The turntable can plug directly into the source selector.

The above Amazon links are to examples of cables and devices you could use with the relevant connectors. You could spend a lot more or less on each cable or device with different brands, colors, etc.

I'd look into the JBL 3XXMkII line.

Powered Monitors, I have the 306P and I love them. Good bit of customization for rooms too on the back.

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC

You can connect to the XLR with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Breakout-Double-Cords/dp/B07K58FTR8/

Also can add an budget Dac as an in-between (That's what I use)

Edit: Also a set of foam isolation pads to throw under them, bunch of options on amazon.

This is all you need to get the Bluetooth signal. You can leave it plugged in so that it won't run out of battery, but you may have to pair it again when you're away for a while as most Bluetooth devices will turn off automatically when disconnected and idle.

Then you just plug it into a cable like this and you should be good to go.

I'd recommend avoiding the cheap, no-name ones like this. Sometimes they just don't work at all, or sometimes they'll work for certain things (note-on) but not others (SysEx dumps, sequencer data, etc.). I actually had one that I connected to one of my synths, and it sent a bunch of garbled MIDI data that caused me to lose some patches.

If you can afford it, I'd recommend something like the $35 iConnectivity mio. I've had 3 different iConnectivity interfaces, and all have been rock solid and dependable. This doesn't require any drivers, whereas I think the equivalent cables by Yamaha, Roland, M-Audio do.

But in its current state you’re not supposed to be using it that way— you can use it with your phone through the Rode app in its current state but for everything else— like your mentioned computer input, SLR and audio recorder all require the TRS adaptor. Phones have the audio connection TRRS which is not up to the TRS quality. You need this adaptor if you want to use it with anything else besides a smart phone and that’s why you’ve gotten sub par results: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L6C8PNU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

It shouldn't be that hard really. if your computer does have 5.1 out (which the card you listed seems to. come out 3.5 mm to XLR

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CYX-403M-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068OEP/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459380451&sr=1-2&keywords=3.5+mm+to+xlr

that will plug into the INPUT of the amp you listed. then use

http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Cable-Patch-Cords/dp/B003JJQMD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459380540&sr=8-1&keywords=25%27+XLR (2 of those)

out of the amp to the but kickers. it will require being a little handy. You would need to cut off the female end of the xlr (the end NOT plugged into the amp) and attach positive and negative leads to the butt kicker pig tails. you can leave the ground loose, or run it to a metal part of the butt kicker frame..could help if you have a hum.

you shouldn't need a DI box as your PC already puts out line level. Those are really only needed for bringing mic level signals up to line level. (generally...not always..there are exceptions)

I would run the amp in stereo using each channel to run 1 butt kicker. If you wanted to run it in bridged mono (more power but be careful) you would have to use only 1 xlr cable, cut the female end off and attache both butt kickers to that one cable from the amp in parallel. thought it really wouldn't gain you anything. and keeping it stereo will give you independent volume control over each...should someone require more butt kicking than their movie watching counter part.

The cables I listed are just example, make sure you order the appropriate lengths. you can also go more or less expensive, but went kind of middle of the road but leaned towards budget friendly.

There is probably someone with more experience than I who can contribute more. I like the challenge of incorporating PA gear into a home theater setup.

Let me know how it works!

Edit: grammar is hard...

There are several models of Alesis USB powered monitors with varying connectivity options.

For example, the Alesis M1 Active 320 USB Powered Studio Monitors take USB or unbalanced RCA or TS inputs, and provides speaker level signal to the unpowered monitor through a TS connector.

The Alesis M1 Active 520 USB Studio Monitors take a pair of TRS balanced inputs, and provides speaker level signal to the unpowered monitor through a TRS connector.

Information about specific Alesis products is available at https://www.alesis.com. You may wish to refer to the manual of the specific Alesis USB monitors you are considering.

Most powered speakers that take balanced inputs will also take unbalanced inputs through an appropriate cable. There are many cables having one balanced end and one unbalanced end, for example:

https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Splitter-Unbalanced-Breakout/dp/B07DMWZPML/

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Connectors-Shielded-Oxygen-Free-Conductors/dp/B001UJH0XU/

Great, thanks for the information - I wouldn't have known. Sorry to trouble you further, but my reasoning for the DI box was that the 2i2 only has xlr inputs - do you know of a way around that? I think I'll use the RCA tape out from the receiver if that helps.

edit: google provided this which seems like it'd work unless there is some sort of balanced/unbalanced fuckery uppery involved that I am ignorant of

Awesome. Thank you very much. I think I will use the last route and run the RCA => XLR adapter. Also would you give a quick look and tell me if this is the cable I need?

Or save a lot of money and do what I did for my MXL 990 condenser mic. Buy a Phantom Power Supply and the XLR to USB cable. I am using this combo myself and it works perfectly fine! The only problem is that it takes up more space.

Something like this could be a possible workaround if it's wired correctly?

Edit: I used a somewhat related method to add mic capabilities to my Fidelio X2's:

Product 1: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTEPUIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - this will work on the Nexus 6P if your headphones has a detachable jack.

Product 2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y4663GG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This will split the headphone and mic signals from the above cable into separate channels. In my case it was required for computer use since I use an external DAC for the headphones (which does not support TRRS) and had to split the mic into a separate cable. Works like a charm (you'll lose the button functionality here but that's to be expected) :)

This one should do just fine to make you wish you had something better.

M MAKA Patch Cables

I bought a bunch and they are awesome.

Edit: if anyone knows a make-alike that are available on not Amazon, please let me know!

Edit2: trying to fix my but reddit is messing it up, thanks for fixing below

Yeah my mic has an XLR output.

http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Female-Microphone-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00B6WZGHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419045567&sr=8-1&keywords=xlr+to+usb

Can I get away with that instead? Might be too late at this point but trying to save money...

I currently have the jbl lsr 305s and I'm looking to add a subwoofer. I play solely off my iphone 6 via google chromecast audio.

What gear do I need to make the jbl lsr 310 (the subwoofer) work? Do I just need XLR cables? Here are the ones I'm looking at: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Plated-Microphone/dp/B00KO8VYMG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ

Will I need an audio interface?

Thanks in advance

Haha, no worries, we all start off somewhere! A cold shoe expander like the other one linked, or like this would work. Then you need a cold shoe adapter (the official Zoom one is way overpriced).

You can plug the Takstar into your phone with something like this. You can also get a TRS to TRRS adapter cable, but make sure you get one specifically for phones (like this). Not all regular cables will work.

Yes, I've done exactly as your describing and it works well. You have to have a powered ethernet hub though.

Here's what I've had connected, including the required cables:

Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter (required)

AUKEY 3-Port USB 3.0 Hub with 10 / 100 / 1000 Gigabit Ethernet

Focusrite Scarlett 2i2

FCB1010

midi usb cable

powered usb hub (you can't just use the hub w/ ethernet above because it's not powered, if you find a powered one that should work, but that was not how I had mine setup)

I believe I've had some other things plugged in here or there, but this setup listed definitely works. It's not simple and clean, but it works.

Currently don't have any speakers mate, i was considering getting a pair of 598's i think ill sell my current microphone after i buy the new one and save for a pair of 598's.

I believe the AT2020 can come bundled with one, This i believe?

Thank you for all your help. I appreciate it, ill throw you some gold on your OG comment !check

A USB dynamic microphone, Similar to this one. Dynamic microphones generally are more directional than condenser microphones.

You could even pick up something like one of these guys and pair it with this cable.

Here is a review of the Knox and one for the PD Mic58.

Sounds like you need an audio interface with usb and line in input to work with the laptop and your cell phone. I would go with the interface for the computer. As the USB will send a cleaner signal vs the 3.5mm

Or get a cables like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_25?crid=2ZG6HGWDZ4CLF&keywords=audio+interface+with+line+in&qid=1555876216&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=audio+interface+with+lin%2Cmi%2C236&sr=1-25

​

https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Splitter-Unbalanced-Breakout/dp/B07DMWZPML

You can try it of course, since you'll use it after. It will depend on your laptop, but a lot of built in microphone inputs have very noisy preamps and they're pretty much useless.

An alternative solution is to hook it up to your phone. A lot of people plug lavalier microphones into their phone with an adapter and get good results. I don't think this would be much different.

Hey! Not sure if you found an answer to this yet, but I've been researching this recently as I want to use a better mic to record my bands' practices.

​

From what I found, you need some type of small sound card, or a TRS to TRRS converter with a 3.5mm to USB C adapter. Phones can take mic input, but by default, they won't recognize that it's an input signal. The options I listed should force the phone to recognize the mic input.

​

I am still waiting on mine in the mail to test it out, but I would guess the TRS converter method will produce higher quality audio since it wouldn't be running through a $7 sound card.

Define cheap? For 100 bucks new or 70 used, a Focusrite solo does the job pretty good.

https://reverb.com/p/focusrite-scarlett-solo-2nd-gen

Or for 10 bucks, you can just get a quarter-inch jack to usb cable, which did the trick for me for awhile.

https://www.amazon.com/Interface-Connector-Instruments-Recording-GarageBand/dp/B01EV0V58A

Exactly what controller is it? We are trying to determine if a splitter cable is even viable.

The easiest way to use a splitter cable is to use your laptop sound card and configure the Left side for Headphone Monitor and the right side for Main output. This reduces you to Mono outputs but can be enough to get you by.

The Traktor DJ cable does just this and is on special.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E411NG6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1421957955&sr=8-3&dpPl=1&dpID=41vqx-AWvIL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

So the S2 Mk3 had aux and rca out and the speakers have TRD and XLR in so any of the "in" to "out" combinations should be fine. I'd recommend RCA to XLR, like this

Hi there,

seeing as you already tested our alpha - we've pushed the latest beta to the alpha channels, so you should be able to pick it up immediately.

Here's how to switch versions on Quest:
https://www.tribexr.com/switch-versions-on-quest

We've fixed performance mode (you can now output mono audio using a splitter cable), but you will need to buy a $9 cable (or similar):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Native-Instruments-Traktor-Cable-iPhone/dp/B00E411NG6/

It's imperfect, it would be better to use both Jacks, but we can't find a solution to that yet.

Cheers, Tom

I have one of these and its pretty ok. I think it would suffice for recording your ideas onto the computer.

What gear are you connecting the iPad to? But like u/slujj-vohaul said, you need the Camera Conection Kit and either connect directly to the USB port of your synths or use something like this.

You need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Stagg-STC3CMXM-Male-Twin-Cable/dp/B003SOR6UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496390296&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+xlr+cable

And yes, that should be the only cable you need, aside from the power cables, of course.

A midi thru box just takes incoming midi and splits it to many outputs... so if you already have a midi adapter like this that plugs in to your camera connection kit, the answer is yes.

The iConnect midi is essentially combining the camera kit and midi adapter into one product.

that Perception120 on Amazon is an XLR plug my camcorder only has a 3.5mm audio jack there is a conversion dongle? If so would that effect the noticeable quality?
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-XVM-110M-Right-Angle-3-5mm/dp/B000K6B2DI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415654239&sr=8-1&keywords=xlr+cable+to+3.5mm Something like this? right?

Your audio interface should have an input for a standard audio cable.

Also, your PC should have a mic/line-in input that would take a cable plug that looks like a headphone plug. Alternately, you could use a USB audio cable like this:
https://www.amazon.com/VAlinks-Interface-Connector-Instruments-GarageBand/dp/B01EV0V58A

Yup this is why I always have a few of these around https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L6C8PNU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thing is Deity claims their mics like the D3 will adapt itself either TRS or TRRS however I've found this only works with certain equipment.

Hi,

​

Does anyone know why my external microphone (a Saramonic SmartMic https://www.amazon.com/Saramonic-SmartMic-Microphone-Devices-Black/dp/B0142ASNY8) which is a TRRS plug, when plugged into my TRRS to TRS adaptor (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-SC3-3-5mm-TRRS-Adaptor/dp/B00L6C8PNU), and then the adaptor plugged into my iPhone 6S Plus' headphone jack (a TRS I believe), my mic does not seem to be working.

​

The voice memos and all my video recordings are still using my iPhone's internal microphones and not my external mic. I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask, but is there any fix for this? I really do need to get an external mic working on my iPhone.

​

Thanks!

Thank you very much. Its quite confusing for me since the AVR has 2 connections, for which I can only use one and the sub also has 2 :/ Theres barely any cable here with mono male RCA to male XLR in Germany though.

Can I also use something like this and just use one rca connection and cover the other and use both XLR connections?

https://www.amazon.de/Stagg-STC3CMXM-Serie-Twinkabel-M%C3%A4nnlich/dp/B003SOR6UC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1538578233&sr=8-6&keywords=cinch+xlr

Or maybe something like this is better, and I just cover one rca?

https://www.amazon.de/Cables-ProCab-Serie-REF703-Instrumentenkabel/dp/B004BR2VJ6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1538578233&sr=8-9&keywords=cinch+xlr

This is a TRRS mic for iphones and other smart phones

You want a TRS mic to work with your gopro.

You can just buy a TRRS to TRS adapter and it should work fine.

Get Amplitube software and one of these and some decent headphones. You will get the joy of all the effects without having to deal with neighbors.

Then it may be your monitors. The older revision of these monitors was known for these issues, but they were supposed to have fixed it with the new revision . Are your monitors still within the return period? If so, just get a new pair. If it persists, then you most likely have a ground loop issue. It could be that your BX5’s just have a way of mitigating the noise.

The way I fixed my issue was with a cheap Mpow ground loop isolator from Amazon. Check it out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019393MV2

You will also need cables like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Y-Splitter-Breakout-Unbalanced/dp/B07K58FTR8

Looks like this isn't what OP wants, though damn close! The top review describes exactly what this does, and then identifies the cable OP is looking for, a "DJ Splitter"

Here is one such example

Hopefully this is what OP's looking for

You could get a RCA>1/4" or RCA>XLR adaptor and use it with pretty much any USB interface.

I havent personally looked too far into it myself yet but it appears you have a few options

either use the 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable from the switch to the nano patch (rca side in the switch, 3.5 into the stereo input on patch)
or

use something like this cable. (rca on switch side, XLR on patch side).

Then use the included cables to connect the speakers to the nano patch. which appears would be TRS on nano patch side, XLR into speaker.

I could be off on this if anyone else wants to jump in. When i purchase mine ill probably go the rca to xlr route on the switch -> patch side of things.

the more im looking at this, after buying the required cables and the kit youre looking at a hundred bucks for convenience. In the grand scheme of things (and budget) it may be something that could wait.

You're using this midi cable? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ACGMOA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480133451&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=midi+usb

I couldn't get that working with my nitro kit. Instead use a straight midi-midi cable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068NTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480133662&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=midi+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=31zDPrrUTfL&ref=plSrch

You might be able to find it cheap at monoprice as well.

If you're on a low budget a Zoom H1 and a Rode Lav mic will work great, with that mic you'll need an adaptor as it is designed to work with phone ports

I'm looking to get a QSC amplifier with a built-in crossover. It takes a mono RCA/XLR signal in this configuration. I will be using a phone or chromecast audio as the source. My plan is to use this connector to convert from 3.5mm stereo to XLR mono. Will this work alright? I'm still not entirely certain about balanced/unbalanced loads and I want to make sure that this is a clean stereo -> mono conversion that won't have the channels cancel each other out. Thanks!

No if you don't want to get phantom power you should be able to plug in directly into your computer (because it comes with the XLR to aux cable) IF your computer provides enough power, if not then it would need phantom power and a female to male XLR cable like so.

This is in the product description:
>NOTE:

>1.The Condenser Microphone only works with the device that could provide enough power(Voltage Required:5V) for it.
When connected with desktop computer, the Microphone could be used alone;
When connected with laptop computer, please connect the laptop to electrical outlet, or use a 48V phantom power to get enough power if the sound is not clear and high enough.

>2.If your device could not provide enough power(when used with Amplifier or Mixer, etc.), the sound volume recorded might be low, and please use a extra 48V phantom power adapter to connect it.(phantom power adapter is not included).

>3.The microphone can not be used with mobile phone and tablet computer. *NOTE: It cannot work with Mac.

>4.If you want better sound effect, a sound card should be used.

>5.When recording, please put the microphone away from the amplifier to prevent recording noise due to amplifier.

this and this Looks like the 1075 has RCA out so you could just buy this if you want to plug your chromecast right into the projector

Maybe. But.....

1. We don't know whether the microphone needs "plug-in-power" as typical for a condenser mic.
   
   
2. Nobody seems to make a simple 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter that would be appropriate for this connection. The Apple iPhone uses the "CTIA" pinout where the mic sgnal is connected to Sleeve, and the ground is connected to the second Ring.
   
   Idealy you could just connect these to the 6.3mm jack straight across. But I can't see anyone selling this simple adapter. Perhaps because few people have a need for such a thing? Or perhaps because it doesn't work (for whatever reason)? Maybe that is why vendors like IK can sell their iRig2 for a rather premium price.
   
   You could try something like this, but I would get from some place that allows you to return it if it doesn't work.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Movo-MC3-Microphone-Adapter-Smartphones/dp/B01N9CJDVE

VicTsing USB IN-OUT MIDI Cable Converter PC to Music Keyboard Adapter Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACGMOA6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_NnU1wb9K42S5P

It's the first one that comes up pretty much.

Unfortunately, $300 for a 4 person set up is going to be hard to make work well since you're basically starting from scratch. That's not to say it can't be done. Unfortunately, I'm going to give recommendations based on what I know is cheaper from a reputable name and hope none of these are right out terrible.

Behringer Q1202USB 12-Channel Mixer. 4 mic inputs, USB connection, $100.

Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Dynamic Vocal Microphone, Cardioid 4 at $20 for $80. Alternatively, BEHRINGER ULTRAVOICE XM1800S is a pack with 3 mics for $40, with one from the last link, gets you 4 mics for $60.

Cable Matters 2-Pack Microphone Cable (Mic Cable/XLR to XLR Cable) 6 Feet 2 packs of 2 at $15 for $30.

NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand 4 at $12 for $50. Alternatively AmazonBasics Tripod Boom Microphone Stand if a desk mounted stand is not ideal or possible, 4 at $20 for $80

I'm also not sure the diameter of those mics but I recommend whichever one of these fits. On Stage MY325 Dynamic Shock Mount Microphone Clip or On Stage MY330 Wireless Shock Mount Microphone Clip both about $10, so $40 for 4.

Depending on what compromises you're willing to make, this is a pretty budget 4 person set up at $280-$330, and I'd recommend saving the last $100 or so you need for it.

would something like this work?
https://www.amazon.com/VAlinks-Interface-Connector-Instruments-GarageBand/dp/B01EV0V58A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487882667&sr=8-1&keywords=guitar+to+pc

something like this can help. The DJ Algoriddim has a split output option
The cable will let you plug headphones on 1 jack and output main speakers on the other
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E411NG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So then this:
http://www.amazon.com/Valley-Female-Headphone-Microphone-Adapter/dp/B00AX8XIDK
ought to work as well, right? Maybe better for in-pocket use because there's no second connection six inches farther up; just at the phone.

Don't get that sub. Get a JBL 310s. It will make your life 30000% easier. Get a TC Electronics Level Pilot. x2 RCA to XLR converter. Dual XLR to Dual XLR cable.

TT > RCA to XLR converter > Level Pilot > XLR Cables > JBL Sub > XLR Cables > JBL Monitors.

x2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O4G/ (turntable outs to Pilot in)
x2 (4 cables): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KO8VYMG/ pilot to sub and sub to monitors.

Yes, I am using this cable

Yes, look for a 3.5mm TRS to TRRS adapter like this

Make sure you buy the following extras with that mic bundle, or your PC will not pick up your voice:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/BTSKY-trade-Condenser-Recording-Microphone/dp/B00S0QAA5Q/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1G35WAVXSJRHN5J34VWG

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-High-Quality-Microphone-Cable/dp/B002YUAK54/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1G35WAVXSJRHN5J34VWG

You'll probably have to build yourself a stage unless you want to buy your own, but that can be pricey.


You'd want a mixer, XLRs, microphone, microphone stand, and speaker

It was the second one. I think I understand what you're saying now.

Would something like this work to just have 1 volume knob or would I be in the same boat as before? Hosa XVM-110M Right Angle 3.5mm TRS to XLR3M 10 Ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K6B2DI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_A4QNwb330PDSW

I would recommend a couple Neewer NW-700 new on eBay my NW700 review ($30 each with a boom stand). Behringer Q802USB mixer and a couple of cheap mic cables

You do. It's usually integrated within multichannel receivers or the subwoofer itself. After reading your post it seems like your sub does have high pass filtered outputs (please state your model when asking for tech help). You'll have to connect your source directly to the sub's input and then its output to the receiver. You'll need some XLR/TS to RCA cables or adapters to do that, these for example: One and two.

You can't just plug a USB cable into it and have MIDI work. You need something like this.

You could buy an external sound card, or something like this and route your audio accordingly.

Correct, OP needs a DJ splitter cable, like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Native-Instruments-Traktor-8-Inch-iPhone/dp/B00E411NG6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1450782382&sr=1-1&keywords=traktor+dj+cable

The he purchased is just a normal splitter cable which duplicates the output. A DJ splitter cable takes the left and right channel from the tablet and makes two mono channels out of it, thus "creating" a two channel soundcard.

You'll need a 1/4 jack to XLR (both male). Like one of these.

Then on the backplate of the sub there should be an XLR OUTPUT. So you'll need an XLR Female to XLR male to your speakers,

Not without an adapter.

You'd need something like this.

You may need an adapter like this;
https://www.amazon.ca/Rode-SC4-inches-Microphone-Cable/dp/B00L6C8PN0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Neewer Mic Stand
$15 ish

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_cu8Zxb1WCA7N5

AT2020 $88


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006H92QK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_kv8ZxbDDA21QD

Scarlett Solo $100

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_3y8ZxbHHPDGMC

Hosa XLR cable $12


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TPDBGC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_sC8ZxbZJZGRXD

This is almost identical to what I used for a while, besides us having a gen 1 2i2 instead of a gen 2 solo. You can upgrade the microphone down the line without upgrading the interface.

Whether or not you can get free shipping will probably impact shipping a lot, we have prime so I'm not sure how much shipping will cost.

I would recommend you to try the stuff out before buying audio equipment if possible. I feel like with this much money you shouldn't leave anything to a leap of faith, plus what mic suits my voice can be a lot different than what suits yours.

Edit: I forgot to mention: I hate the Neewer stand, but I can't possibly recommend the Rode PSA1 to someone with a 200-300 budget.

Yep. I got a cheaper XLR one. We'll see how it turns out tomorrow.

I see a pretty big range in prices for MIDI to USB cables, would there be a problem with getting a cheap one like this?

>Gold plating on wires is of dubious quality. It is only useful if both the connector on the gear and the wire is of the same material. If you have a gold plated connector on your cable and your equipment’s connector is a different metal it will cause galvanic corrosion. This kills the equipment.

Correct. I said elsewhere that I was full of shit, I didn't know what I was talking about with this. I'm not sure why I said the stupid things I did about gold plating.

>I will concede that Monster Cables have a great warranty. But there might be a better way. Take [2] this cable and [3] this cable. If you bought the monster cable and it broke, you could go back to the store and get a new one. (Provided that the store is still in business.) You could also buy 3 of the cheaper cables, have two backup wires, and still have half your money.

>Wires on stage are another matter as you mentioned, they are also made differently. Music production usually uses [4] XLR cables which has a balanced line construction. This makes any stray interference in the wire [5] common mode and much easier to deal with.

Yeah, you're right about this, but for XLR, Monster's prices are much more in line with an average priced cable.

I'm not saying that monster isn't a rip off for home audio/video, but for professional equipment, the extra price could be worth it after a single break.

Thanks for the suggestions about the volume levels. What isolation pads do you have?

I think these cables will work.

I also need one of these for my headset.

• 1. Don't bring any gear unless you are 1000000% ok with it being completely destroyed.
     
• 2. See #1
     
• 3. See #1
     
• 4. I use Traktor (app) on an iPad 2 (64GB) in this case, with packing tape covering all exposed holes.
     
• 5. I use this splitter for Traktor that plugs into the iPad to split the audio signal between my headphones and to the main audio board/rig whatever that art car/stage is using. This way I can get my next track ready while the current one is playing.
     
• 6. I then plug this 25' RCA to 1/8" cable into one of the outputs on the splitter, and run it to the main audio mixing board
     
• 7. I pack a pair of these RCA to 1/4" plug just in case the audio board/mixer, etc doesn't have RCA inputs.
     
• 8. Bring a sh!tty pair of decent headphones (see #1)
     
• 9. If all else fails, I've used my iPhone running Traktor in a plastic ziploc bag with an RCA -> 1/8" cable plugged into my headphone jack to keep a party rocking all day on an art car. The iPhone can sense your touch inputs through the plastic in a ziploc bag, keeping it relatively safe - but see #1 again.
     
• 10. just in case you missed it...
      
      formatting

Your computer most likely has a USB port. Get a USB MIDI interface for your keyboard. MIDI Out from the keyboard into MIDI In on the USB MIDI Interface. Or if your interface has a MIDI input, just use that.

Here's an $8 one from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Cable-Converter-Keyboard-Adapter/dp/B00ACGMOA6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464819807&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+MIdi+interface