Reddit mentions: The best standard electrical outlets

First off, welcome -- it's a fun ride!

Re: Dimmers/Plugs/Etc
Caseta is nice, I have a couple of switches and they work great. Especially if you want to create 3-way switches without wiring. What I mean is that you can just replace one hard-wired switch with a smart switch and then use the Caseta Pico for the secondary location (which just adheres to the wall).

Just some thought starters as you explore further -- for hardwired switches, in addition to Lutron, I have had a ton of success with the GE/Jasco Z-Wave switches.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479395673&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+smart+switch

I have the generic on/off switch, dimmer switch and fan switch by them (more on the dimmer function later).

For my plug-in switches, currently I have a couple different ones I use for Christmas lights, and a couple of lamps and a floor fan.

My favorite is this random one I found by Inovelli or Show Home (not sure -- looks like Inovelli is a distributor or something):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Z-Wave-On-Off-Smart-Home-Plug-Control-2-Outlets-w-1-Module-Works-with-Alexa-/361826630198

I like it because you can control two outlets individually vs just one like all the other ones and it's around the same price too.

I also own a Leviton plug-in which works great too, but only controls one outlet -- still no complaints:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRPA1-1LW-Capable-Appliance-Module/dp/B00JFF1WP8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1479395904&sr=8-6&keywords=leviton

Ok, now on to your question about blog/forum/guide, etc...
Here's a good place to start:

http://wiki.winkathome.net/Main_Page

I also enjoy reading the Wink Group comments on Facebook -- I can't remember the name of the group, but if you just search for Wink Home Automation, I think it shows up. That group has been awesome for learning new things. It's a fairly large group too.

Lastly, I think I understand what you're asking, but if not, I apologize. How the GE Dimmers work (and I'm assuming the other ones too) is that you can use the switch manually like any dimmer switch -- hold up and it gets brighter, hold down and it gets dimmer, tap the up button and the light turns on to the last setting you left it at, tap the bottom button and the light turns off.

You can also set the percentage (or approximate, I don't recall it having actual numbers -- it's more a sliding scale) you'd like it to go to from within the Wink app (ex: have your light come on to around 75% at 8pm, then dim to 50% at 10pm).

Make sense?

Hope this helps.

Just for a precursor, I'm attempting to setup the ultimate man cave. I'm more than happy to shell out the extra cash for a product that flat out works, however as were all aware sometimes you pay for a brand.

I feel like Alexa may be a bit of a disappointment compared to google in many aspects as well as comparability. When I originally began my research I was thought I was set on Alexa. Prime member for years, Amazon card holder, ext. I believe the Echo show is an amazing product(In the right direction anyway), would you happen to know if google plans on realeasing a tablet such home as the Echo? I would really love the ability to use both voice and hand control commands all in one, so I've looked into the Logitech harmony as well. Shoot even if the voice is limited(as I expect it to be, I would be perfectly content being able to control everything with one remote and some voice features being a bonus) Which I believe the Logitech may be able to as it has its own hub.

Side note I'm also trying to load up on some smart wifi outlets, there's several different brands and I'm confused as to if each will require a different app.

For example I love this product if it works in theory!

Geeni SURGE Smart Wi-Fi 4 Outlet & 4 USB Surge Protector, No Hub Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R9N4Z7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w90JzbVZPK7AP

However I will also need some smaller units smart outlet units for a single item here or there. If the previous link works, am I limited to only products correlated with their brand(Geenie I believe) to control through just one app? I've read great reviews for Wemo, TP-Link, and Etekcity as well. They just all have slightly different options I may or may not prefer, and it would be frustrating having 6 different apps.(Which is why I was wondering if the Eharmony may resolve that issue). The Smart surge protector seems really awesome to me. I could have my lamps on each side of my bed, aroma therapy, an extra outlet, and the 4 ports supposedly work individually for the price of most of the other wifi single plugs. As well as the snazzy extra USBs that always come in handy.

Sorry for the beginner question.
The solution to me is to get all of the same brand, but I always love to hear others expierences and recommendations!

While you can do that, I might share some additional thoughts:

• The EVSE link you provided will charge at a rate of only 16A, which is one-half the capability of your Clarity (and nearly all new cars). From a cost/labor perspective, I wouldn't bother pulling a new 20A circuit if the goal is to support EVs.
  
• Plugging and unplugging your EVSE daily (I'm assuming you'd have to do this so nobody steals it from the common parking lot) will put a lot of wear and tear on the NEMA 14-50R, so be sure to use a commercial receptacle ($75), not one of those cheap ones ($8) at the local big box store.
  
• For a wall-mount EVSE, a new, dedicated circuit is effectively the same material and labor cost no matter what attaches at the end of it, whether a ChargePoint device vs NEMA 14-50 all weather receptacle. If there is a pedestal or dual charger solution then, yes, there is more consideration for a concrete pad, etc. (And the ChargePoint requires a cellular control module, but that provides a huge benefit if the desire is a managed charging solution.)
  
  Of course, every garage and parking lot is different, so many of us can only speculate as to what is best for your particular case.

I have something that's $15.22 but I'll still show it anyways because it's super cool :D

They sell these things on amazon, that allow you to plug your usb cables directly into your electrical outlets, as opposed to plugging in the bulky chargers etc.

Maybe I'm just a super nerd but I think it's really cool :)

How about a power strip with built-in overload protection?
Something like this with built-in 15Amp circuit breaker (overload protection) and GFCI (ground/short protection). I think a GFCI is a good idea in van 120v systems since we can't properly ground our inverters.
(And here's the specs for that specific power strip)

I don't see any problems with using an induction cooktop if you can support. I've seen multiple people use them with good results.

Also, this is a really clean mockup! What did you use to make it?


EDIT: I'd also like to point out that there's a difference between surge protected power strips and overload protected power strips. They don't all have both. Also if you wanted, you could get a regular overload protected power strip and use a standalone GFCI adapter.

I put these USB outlets in a few areas around the house where I typically charge my phone or am sitting for awhile - near the beds, at the kitchen island and drop zone, by the recliner and bar, etc. Make sure to get ones that provide a high-mAh output. Mine put out 2.4mAh at each port, not total. I didn't bother with QuickCharge compatible but you could.

I just built my house a few years ago and had Cat6 Ethernet wired to each room along with RG6 coax. I do wish I'd have had the contractors put in conduit to make running future lines easier, so you could consider that. (Home theater down the line? Run conduit so you can hide your cables and receiver elsewhere! etc.)

If you're handy or run power tools in the garage often, consider a subpanel for the garage with some 20A circuits. I trip my 15A circuits once or twice a summer when I have a shop vac, table saw, and maybe one other device running simultaneously, and when I eventually get into welding I'll be limited by my lack of 220V out in the garage.

If you want security cameras outside, you could think about running Ethernet out to some soffits and using PoE compatible cameras.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. Good luck!

TP-Link’s kasa line seems rock solid in my apartment— many switches and plugs etc. HS105 is a simple smart plug (no energy monitoring) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/

Anyway there are reasons why you may not want all wifi devices. When I recently did a house, I went for Lutron Caesta for many reasons, which is hub based.

BTW— I think SmartThings is great, but really doesn’t sound like what you need... it would complicate your setup needlessly.

Lastly, an Echo Plus or equiv. has a ZigBee hub inside, otherwise, you may be hard pressed to support your current smart plug.

I think it's a very nice plug, no question. I'm not sold on the usefulness of having a fuse in an individual cord. I can count on one hand the number of times that I have actually had a circuit breaker or fuse pop correctly, and it seems like fuses go bad for no reason more often than they go bad for a good reason. As evidence of this, think of how many times you have just replaced a fuse without having to fix anything else - that's a sign that the fuse shouldn't have blown in the first place.

In the US, we do have plugs now that require both prongs to be inserted simultaneously, making it similarly impossibly to stick a screwdriver or whatever in there (http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5320-W-Resistant-Receptacle-Residential/dp/B0015R9M2Y/ref=sr_1_131?ie=UTF8&qid=1421376706&sr=8-131&keywords=safety+outlet). As I understand, these are code for new construction in some places. I view these as the best of both worlds - safe, but no ground prong required when not needed.

The final thing is that the UK plugs have nonconductive prongs except at the tips. I am not sure if this is doable with the US plug as it is much more narrow, and any plastic may break. It would be really nice if we could have that too.

So I'd call that a 1 point advantage and the UK plug still wins.

My son gave me one for Christmas. Truly the most amazing appliance. Well worth the money.


Editing to add that if you change your outlet for the one like this one you should probably be fine.

Already good comments here, but TBF the best remote things are outlets and wall switches. That way if/when you hit a switch to turn something off the 'old' way it will still respond if you want it on.

Also, you need a hub. Smartthings or Wink.
The rest are worthless (Hue hub and all the other hubs). IMO Philips Hue is lame. If you want colored bulbs go get Sylvania lightify (cheaper, less crap in your house since it doesn't need its own hub).

Ideal starter setup would be an echo dot $50, a hub $100, two wall switches ($30ea) (for unswitched outlets) and a couple wall paddle switches ($30ea). That much hardware would set you back about $270, but would add a fair bit of fun and convenience.

First time home owner, just passed the 1yr mark.

• I don't care how much you have saved up... kiss that money goodbye!
  
  
• Pay for a home inspection, it's wonderful peace of mind, also pay to have your sewer line (if applicable) scopes. Should cost <$200 or so, and will tell you if shit is going to hit the fan (plus you can negotiate it before you buy)
  
  
• I prefer unfinished basements, because then you can do what YOU want with the place.. rather than adapt to what someone else wanted.
  
  
• Get the seller disclosures from your realtor before you bother going. I found a house that was priced decent for the market, didn't look bad... got the disclosures after the fact... oh, look, MOLD!
  
  
• I would carry around one of these guys to spot-check the electrical in a place. If it didn't pass even as simple of a test as that, I treated it as a warning sign. Ground will depend on when the house was built, of course
  
  
• Lawn/Snow service is wonderful. One less thing to think about after work.
  
  
• Before you jump into any particular project, make a list of ALL the shit you want to do, price it out, prioritize it... what can wait, what is best done before moving in? Took me three months and over $10k just to get the "pre-move" shit out of the way..
  
  Now, on a side note... I don't know what the market looks like there, but for a starter home, $250k-350k is a bit on the "whut?" side. If you can afford one of those, a piece of advice I'd offer is "go smaller". I could afford a 300k place, but I bought a 150k place. As a result, I've got plenty of spending money to do what I want, rather than invest it in a habitat with gobs more room than I needed. (and still got more room than I'm using)

Blocking the socket is fine if you have it suspended above by magnets. Technically it's not even a permanent installation that way.

Yes you would need to install a new box, but you would need to anyways if you were looking to put the tablet at the right height with hidden power. And the box I linked is good for new work or old work so you could easily retrofit it into an existing wall. If you have a place to rats nest a transformer then you have a place for this.

Even better than a transformer is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C

Then just lay a thin QI mat on top

I would be looking at a issue with the power, measuring voltages, sometimes when there are wierd issues I use a voltage data logger over the weekend to see what the power is doing...but that's not a normal thing for people to have access to lol
On the cameras I install to be extra safe(as they are computers) I replace the electrical outlet with one that contains a surge protector like this:
Leviton 15 Amp Commercial Grade Tamper Resistant Decora Duplex Outlet with Surge Suppressor, White
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Commercial-Grade-Tamper-Resistant-Decora-Duplex-Outlet-with-Surge-Suppressor-White-R00-T5280-00W/206126043
Leviton 5280-W 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Decora Plus Duplex Surge Suppressor Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Self Grounding, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iFVYDbF9FGRF0

It's a small investment that will help protect the cameras from surge and cant hurt

You need to find one that supports 3 amp charging. I have one of these and it works great. Something like the TOPGREENER brand outlets might be better if you are charging tablets.

I bought this two years ago and it’s been great. I’m not affiliated with the company, I am just passing the link to show you what I have.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019SPHSYI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GJ3EAbM3BMK8K

I installed it in my kitchen at the end of the counter where we usually charge phones, iPads, etc. It’s been nice not having to have charging bricks everywhere and it does a good job with charging the devices quickly. It’s been worth it for me and my family so far.

This is interesting, and good information to know, but now I have some follow up questions.

• Do you have a link to the pull chain with with the outlets? Also how hard is it to re-wire one? I've re-weird like 30+ outlets and switches.
  
  
  
• According to law the dumb switch light bulb has to stay dumb? But if I have the (smart) LED light plugged into the new fixture, it can be smart?
  
  
  
• So you made the outlet smart with something like THIS?
  
  
  
  
• Another question, I have a 3 way switch that controls the light bulb on my stairs leading into the basement and a setup that you just talked about (pull chain with fluorescent light). Can I switch out one of the 3 way switches with a Smart 3 way switch? Pull the pull chain to "off" and just let the new smart switch control the Stairs light, and the fluorescent light?
  
  
  
• One more thing, what LED shop lights did you go with?

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: like this one


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

1. I custom ordered blinds from Home Depot because I have floor to ceiling windows. I ended up not being happy with them. I ordered from a local window place and they made me custom ones that were a lot nicer, cheaper, and included installation. The cheaper sounding option isn't always.
   
   
2. I made the following electronic wiring upgrades myself (really easy to do):
   
   USB ports for friends who come over and want to charge their phones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZIU5Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
   Timer for the shower fan so you don't always leave it on: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BJULYS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
   
   Motion activated lights everywhere, esp the closets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
   
   Edit: formatting

It takes about an hour for 2000W to increase 6 gallons of water by 100F. I'd predict that you're going to need about 2.5 hours to get to temp.

I've been mashing and brewing with a cobbled together system that includes a 1500W heat stick and 1000W sous vide and some big hop screens that act like brew bags. I actually run the sous vide in the mash and boil (works great until the volume drops and the sous vide propeller starts sucking in air). At those wattages though, it takes awhile to get to the desired temps. Recently I got another heat stick and a pump to recirculate and ran power over from another circuit. I think it'll be a little closer to using propane now.

BTW 2500W is too much for a 15 or 20 amp circuit. I happen to have a 25 amp breaker on the circuit where I brew. And don't forget GFCI:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UOU6OVU/

Can't speak to the HA part, but I'm in the process of replacing my receptacles with tamper-resistant (TR) Leviton decoras (link) for child proofing. I believe TR receptacles are required by code on homes made after 2008. Might be something to look into for any standard outlets in your home.

Leviton makes a ZWave-compatible one but those run about $50 each (Amazon) and don't offer the feature you're requesting. I understand the need to childproof but I'm not sure if I'd want an outlet that can be disabled via network without an override; you know there's someone in this world that would wind up plugging their network or HA gear into that outlet and not be able to get it back on. :)

Yea, my room in my apartment only has a northeast-ish facing window and a northwest-ish facing window, meaning some of my plants that need a lot of light were pretty unhappy for a while. Highly recommend investing in some plant lights. I found some relatively cheap LED grow lights on Amazon the other day for $16 that seem to cover all the necessary wavelengths that plants need. Get some timers (or smart outlets that you can put on a schedule) and BOOM never again is there a cloudy day in your apartment!

And yea just to reiterate what the other guy said, water based on when the plant needs it, not on a set schedule. You generally want to water them very thoroughly and then let the top of the soil dry out about a centimeter to an inch down. You're trying to mimic the plants' natural conditions, which for most plants means that they expect a thorough bout of rain to come and drown everything in water, followed by a dry period of no rain for maybe a week or two (but again, it's nature, so this isn't a set schedule), followed by another thorough bout of rain, and so on. Succulents of course require less water, while some tropical plants really like being a little more moist all the time. Good luck!

You might try something like this instead https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-SmartlockPro-Combination-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B017KUEWCO/ if you need a better dimmer with good CFL/LED support.

Make sure you use the Enerwave dual z-wave relays, and not the Monoprice ones. The Enerwave relays work great with Wink. Lots of reports of issues with the Monoprice ones. I had one explode inside the gang box

Also, if all you want is for the controlled outlet to be the bottom one, then there are a few choices that work with Wink:

• GE z-wave outlet
  
• Enerwave z-wave outlet
  
• Linear/GoControl z-wave outlet
  
  These are cheaper than using the Enerwave z-wave dual relay to make two controlled outlets, although the latter is more useful in many situations.

Sure, I'd get this receptacle instead http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C

p

Normally a fan of Cooper, but like this receptacle for USB. You can actually fit something in all sockets on it at the same time as long as you are not using a bulky ac adapter.

Not sure why you were down voted.

Anywho, these are the ones I installed around my house:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easy to install, too. You don't really have to have an electrician do it although you can if you want to be safe. You can always watch a few videos on youtube on how to install these as long as you follow simple rules like "pretend the wire is always hot" (kind of like pretending the gun is always loaded, even when it's not).

Basically, shut power off at the breaker for the plug you're working on, take off faceplate, pull wiring out, take note of cables, colors, etc and connect them to new plug. My wires were white, black, and no-color (copper, which was ground/neutral).

Use an IEC splitter cable with a clip-on ferrite. The IEC splitter allows you to neatly wire up all of your power supplies from a single cable. You can fix it in place on your pedalboard, so you'll only need to plug in a single power cable to run all of your Pedal Power units. The ferrite will help dissipate RF interference coming from the mains wiring.

While you're at it, get yourself an outlet tester and a GFCI - it could save your life.

Seems like the lesson there is to get a high quality receptacle designed for multiple insertions. The first thread recommends the Hubbell HBL9450A, which is pretty pricey. I find it hard to believe a Leviton one would be fine since that is commonly seen at RV sites.

Also proper installation/wiring is key. All connections must be good so nothing gets hot, and cables should be of the proper thickness for the current drawn (6AWG in this case).

Also a of grease or dust getting onto the plug as that can reduce the contact area and cause heat.

(And amps can equate to heat if wiring is inadequate and thus overloaded.)

Smart Plug Compatible with Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT for Voice Control, Teckin Mini Smart Outlet Wifi Socket with Timer Function, No Hub Required, White FCC ETL Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVST9YN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JL3VDb8NJB308

What I use. Works wonderfully.

It looks like [these are 2.1 each] (http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7745W-BOX-Combination/dp/B00B1GHC58/) if that helps any.

EDIT 1: On further reading, that is incorrect. My apologies.
EDIT 2: [These are rated at 4.0 (2.0 each)] (http://www.amazon.com/ENERLITES-Charger-Receptacle-Tamper-Safety/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=pd_cp_hi_2) which seems just about your speed.^1

1: And mine, they're going in my wish list.

OP, make sure you install a surge protected outlet like this one. Lowes and home depot will both carry them

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280-W-Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B0006I33Y6

Wire your charging stand so the switch is in the stand, then you'll have the one cord from the stand to the outlet and you don't have to try to find the outlet made of unobtanium.

Or, if you want, you can hide this for best aesthetics, and use the master switch or the individual switches as you wish.

Or try this device or this sort of switch at the wall.

No you won’t ruin an LED Light by turn it off and on or unplugging it while its on.

Personally I love the Wemo smart plugs. They have timers and can be controlled via your phone.

If you have use for multiple timers in one location like for your lights, power heads, CO2, bubbler or what have you there is a power strip on amazon
Geeni SURGE Smart Wi-Fi 4 Outlet & 4 USB Surge Protector - No Hub Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R9N4Z7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n5MGAbHC8Q7XS

Thanks, that helps a lot. It's weird though, I see items on Amazon that aren't on the list, but claim to support Google Home. For example: https://www.amazon.com/EMISH-Wireless-Required-Function-Anywhere/dp/B073R7LLJW/

You can get them at any Home Depot or Lowe's. This is what they look like). They are very easy to install, just make sure you've cut power to the outlet by turning off the respective breaker/fuse.

Kasa's smart plugs are 2 for $39 currently. I put my outdoor walkway and spot lights on their built in sunrise/sunset timer. Also using one for the Xmas tree (soon).
A bit over your price, but one for you, one for them! :)

When it comes to fans, the highest CFM versions are what you are looking for. High CFM, a light, and also quiet? Sorry, not for $200. You need longer blades, a higher blade count, but a lower fan speed setting if you want to hit all your criteria. This is one that could do it:

http://www.ceilingfan.com/Minka-Aire-Slipstream-XXL-Ceiling-Fan-p/maf889-orb.htm

At max speed it can move 11,000 cfm. You'd never run it there. At half speed it will still move 5500 cfm, but be almost silent.

As for the USB outlets? I've tried several, and all all work pretty much about the same. I installed quads, with a conventional duplex outlet on one side, and one of these next to it:

https://www.amazon.com/TOPELE-LD-U002-Charger-Electrical-Receptacle/dp/B019SPHSYI

"Normal" depends on what outlet you buy. My outlets put out 4.0a total. Phones usually take 1.0a. Tablets usually take 2.1a.

TOPGREENER TU2154 4.0 Amp Smart High Speed USB Wall Charger Outlet, 15A TR Receptacle Free Screwless Wall Plate, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7GiSybK0SDJPM

If there is an on/off switch on the coffee pot that actually switches it on and off. And it's not a spring-loaded toggle. In other words, as soon as it has power it comes on:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07N3CK3MM/?coliid=IUD48VO2ALRXA&colid=2OTHI4Q5DKXP3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

or

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ6W63H/?coliid=IW9WF1WA6CRX8&colid=2OTHI4Q5DKXP3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Otherwise, SwitchBot is the only thing available now.

Of course, if you're feeling brave, open up the coffee maker and wire it to be 'always on', bypassing it's internal switch.

There should be no issues. I was just looking into this myself and I found these guys at Amazon for a pretty good price:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3PMU4C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

[Leviton 5280] (http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280-W-Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=pd_cp_hi_1) I have used these in a number of projects and they are by far the best option in tight spaces.

I understand what you're asking for, u/vm_x2a_nix. To clarify for other users: the wall box in your room is installed horizontally so the nightlight is sideways, and you want a switched receptacle in your daughter's room.

This will handle the receptacle in your bedroom, and this is your solution for your daughter's room without having to run any new Romex.

Hope this helps.

I've got a set of these coming today. They use the "Smart Life" app but I would think can be integrated into ST or another app. I don't have much experience with time-based routines but maybe there's a repeating setting or maybe an IFTTT routine could help. At least these are cheap plugs you can use.

I have a few of these installed and they work great! Link

Yes

First you'll need an outlet that connects to the internet. Something like this.

Then you can name this device "the dabs" or "e-nail"and when you say "Alexa turn on the dabs" or Alexa turn on the e-nail, she'll turn on your e-nail for you

I would put a GFCI in the wall where you plan to plug this in. Then, get a standard sized outlet, but one that has the two USB ports and is Tamper resistant. Like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZhD5Bb0TBC6NZ

Or you could go for the straight 4x USB. The call is up to you. Having a standard receptical means you can upgrade or switch as your needs change.

Edit, forgot the box. Get a metal, gangable box for use with NM/Romex. You can also get a metal, old work for use with NM/Romex and just take off (or even use) the old work clamps. Sorry I can't link it now. But you'll see why it will work. Just wrap the ground from your extension around the wire, then go to the receptical.

This one works well with me. Well worth the extra price for the form factor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LEWQYPI/

This might help, this brand almost literally helps power NYC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_GEtIDbR6AGP4M

There's socket/switch combinations like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5625-W-Combination-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B002LSI72M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485300619&sr=8-1

You can wire it to act like a normal wall switch for a ceiling light or whatever, or be a switch for the integrated socket.

Most of the plug-in modules I've found are a bit large to fit inside the most common "in use cover" products.

Can you replace the electrical outlet itself with a "smart" outlet, like TP-Link Kasa? There are also various Insteon/Zwave/etc models, many UL-Listed.

> I'd like to run an AC

Does the A/C have a safety plug (Test/Reset)?

If not, add a plug in one from Amazon (or eBay). Typically less than $15. Or you could replace the wall outlet with a GFCI but you have to be careful if it feeds more outlets.

Tower Manufacturing 30439005 3-Wire Portable GFCI

You've got a ghost living where your camera is mounted.

Jk, I've never seen anything like this on my IQ outdoor. Since it happened to the last one too - maybe check the power outlet itself. Use a multimeter and make sure you're getting correct voltage. Turn off the breaker to the outlet and check the connections or maybe even replace it if it's old. They also sell receptacles with surge built in like this. Power surges or undervolting are just the first things that come to mind if Wifi connection has been ruled out. Did they replace just the camera portion or the power supply puck too?


Speaking of wifi, do you have it on 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz? A lot of people have been having issues with 5Ghz. I'm actually thinking about buying a second access point to run on a different 2.4GHz wifi channel dedicated to my cameras/IOT to take some of the load off my main network.

Sure, just get a switch with the gfci combo. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-SmartlockPro-Combination-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B017KUEWCO

This outlet has a zwave switched receptacle and always on receptacle:

https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-Z-Wave-Wireless-Resistant-Receptacles/dp/B013RYRP8U

The switched receptacle looks like it provides energy usage.

The leviton outlets are only $19 stateside, we don't need electricians to replace existing outlets (though some people are more comfortable having a professional do it).

That said, the newer 'C' specification tends to be inherently more expensive, so I don't foresee outlets with full 'C' power delivery being that inexpensive.

It sounds like you have a hot-to-chassis fault in your computer's power supply. It is likely that your TV is grounded (either through the plug or via the coax cable) but your computer is not, so when you connect the HDMI current flows from the faulty computer power supply to the TV over the cable.

Can you try connecting a different computer (before replacing the TV) to see if the same problem occurs? If it does not spark with a different computer then you need to replace the power supply in your computer.

If possible, I would also recommend plugging both the TV and computer into the same power strip/surge protector. If the wiring in your house has a hot/ground reversal somewhere then it's possible that you're creating a fault path through the HDMI cable.

If it is indeed a problem with the wiring (i.e. a different computer doesn't fix the issue) then I would highly recommend getting an electrician to come out and assess the situation. There could be a major fire/shock hazard present in the home's wiring.

Finally, I would strongly recommend getting an inline GFCI protector like this one to put before your equipment. It sounds like you do not have working ground at this receptacle, so you there may be significant risk of electric shock. This will provide some protection against it.

nice build, one thing though, get rid of that chinese receptical, its a fire hazard, they werent even bothered to clean up the edges around the "TR" letters in the mold, who knows how there quality control is of the actual electronics. get a Leviton one instead, they come in every colour

Odd request but here you go:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015R9M2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1394316241&sr=8-3

It's really nice because it has a really shallow design so that it doesn't take much horizontal space

For your fish and your own safety, you should put the aquarium on a GFCI. You can buy adapters like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-3-Wire-Adapter/dp/B00UOU6OVU/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31s4w5u8lnL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160SR160%2C160&refRID=0B0YTWYAT9NVYTY8QP3T

If there is any current leakage into the water due to faulty equipment it will shut off the power.

CHEAP OPTION: Find a USB powered speaker you like and is in your budget and just get a cheap 2 port USB wall plug. I wouldn't mess with splitters/adapters when you're talking about power. It won't sound great because you really can't get a whole lot of power through USB. It only runs 5V at 2A which is 10W.

WHAT I DID IN MY KITCHEN: I bought one of these outlets to run 2x 120v plugs and 2x USB plugs. This solves your problem if you're handy. you get the 120v for a nice speaker and USB integrated to run your dot.

BETTER OPTION: Figure out a budget. If you're looking for under $50 I'd get the highest reviewed portable speaker that has a headphone jack on it. Get a 2x usb wall plug and 2 cables that are the same length and a 1' acc cable.

I used this one

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ

You can control it remotely from your phone, setup schedules etc. Very useful.

Very nice, could've gone with these outlets tho for more USBness: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C

If your dropping new power or if you have an outlet up there for your projector already grab a normal short surge protector and swap out the outlet for a protected one Leviton 5280-W 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Decora Plus Duplex Surge Suppressor Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Self Grounding, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GH0zxb01Y2BET
If you've never messed with power before grab an electrician, as far as the tv boxes generating heat separate them and out them behind the exhaust of the projector

Tada!

TOPGREENER TU2154A Smart Ultra High Speed USB Charger Outlet 15 AmpTR Receptacle | Screwless Wall Plates, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k4NxzbVXBY9RE

This or any other smart switch, combined with a setting in your bios called "auto-on with power" or w/e and you're golden.

Comments on this one show it delivering 2A to both ports:

TOPGREENER TU2154A Smart Ultra High Speed USB Charger Outlet 15 AmpTR Receptacle | Screwless Wall Plates, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N75xzbE2XC9A1

Geeni is listed as a possible brand that the GH can connect with and they have a 4-outlet + 4 USB smart strip.

Whoa. That's scary. Not to hi-jack the thread, but any issues with these?

Teckin smart mini smart outlets. I just needed any-old smart outlets for turning some extra garage lights on and off via my phone when needed. There is a bedroom above the garage- so the thought of a fire is scary.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVST9YN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this one. Works like a charm. You can assign each outlet its own name. USBs are grouped, but I don't really need to turn them on/off anyway


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R9N4Z7?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

You should get a replacement outlet with USB power outlets. Something like this:

TOPGREENER TU2154A 4A High Speed Dual USB Charger Outlet 15A TR Receptacle Screwless Wall Plates, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QStNxbDM025FE

something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280-W-Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B0006I33Y6

One of the Leviton versions of this is $22.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3PMU4C

You're buying 4 of the same type thing for less than the price of two Levitons.

Buy a real product from a real company that actually has assets to protect from liability claims arising from burning down houses from cheaply made garbage which incents them to make something that won't actually burn your house down.

Maybe skip the brick and get something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_iy4nybNHD8GA4

These reviews aren't all that mixed... These are ones I like personally.

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425660653&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+outlet

I have one of those by my chair in the living room.

I also recommend them for kitchen counters or wherever you rest your mobile devices.

I have and like this outlet a lot. Bit more streamlined than that outlet cover.

http://i.imgur.com/ZnToBim.png

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=nosim/appleink

A apologize for my confusing question. I hope this helps:

Out of battery, in to dc-ac inverter (linked above).

Out of AC-side of inverter. Into the back of a wall plug like this one. This will be installed into a wall and used to power stuff.

Here was my solution.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ouISybSQ422WN

I don’t know of one.
But just wanted to make sure you were aware of the outlets that has USB integrated. just one example

We have several [Smart Life power plugs] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVST9YN/), they do not require voice recognition -- anyone can say "Hey Google, turn off the kitchen fan" and it will turn off.

You seem to assume other people have had little or no experience with consumer electronics and networking. Perhaps you should rethink that assumption.

19% of Wemo smartswitch purchasers on Amazon give it [one star] (https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Enabled-Google-Assistant-HomeKit/dp/B01NBI0A6R/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wemo&qid=1565543795&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews) - 1 out of 5 people. Kasa's [one star] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=kasa&qid=1565542758&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews) are only 6% of reviewers. That is a major difference that's too big to be accounted for because some people are "vocal" about product problems.

Nor was it a "technical issue with something in the implementation on your premises." Nothing in any environment should be able to cause a Wemo switch to come on at random times each day without being programmed to do so. Nothing in the environment should be able to cause it to just lose it's ability to connect to the router until it's reset.

I've tried these switches in multiple homes, with multiple ISPs and multiple routers. Same flaky issues.

By contrast TP-Link switches in these same environments work perfectly. Wemo products are too unreliable to be sold as consumer devices.

Bell box is a brand of these

In use cover that is lockable orientation matters. This is a vertical cover for vertical box, get a horizontal cover for horizontal box.

Use a GFCI outlet

What you proposed won't work the Wi-Fi signal will not escape the metal box. If you can't remove the box in question consider getting a close nipple and join the two boxes and run the wires in between.

I'm using this lamp cord with this grow light and these smart outlets for my monstera. Granted its a new addition so I dont have time to say if it works but I dont see why it wont. I have it around 2-3 feet above its upper most leaves and fashioned a shade out of black paper my wife had (its VERY bright). The outlets let me set a timer or turn it on and off remotely for whatever reason.

Also buy one of these, useful not just for testing GFCI, but for seeing if the outlet is wired correctly.

I have already purchased this for the GFCI issue. I hadn't thought about the current capacity of the cord though.

At my work we have some nifty recessed receptacles but they seemed a little out of my price range for this project. The cheapest I could find was this but what I did has much more functionality for a similar cost.

Upgrade to tamper resistant outlets. They are now code in many states, and are quite cheap. They work by having a gate over the top two holes, that only moves IF both prongs are being inserted.

Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Assistant-Control-Function-Required-Upgrade/dp/B07FVST9YN/

​

I already have this setup to control some LED light strips in my house but have to use it's app or alexa to control it. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079239CYM/

Also have a EUFY vacuum I haven't looked into yet - but I know it's in Alexa...

I just bought two of these off amazon. They charge faster.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_H9TbVFDANxL7s

Amazon sells a version with two outlets and two USB ports for about $12 each.

https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU2154A-Charger-Receptacle-Screwless/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502483762&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+outlet+plug

It would probably be a lot more generally useful and future proofed to just get regular AC voltage outlets with built in transformers and USB outlets.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C/

That way as standards change (USB-A won't be around forever and USB-C can already handle significantly more watts than A was originally specified for) re-doing your charging infrastructure is as simple as changing out an outlet instead of having to mess with pintouts and potentially re-running wire.

Just check the specs. But since they are drawing from the wall you can get some solid juice. They usually tell you which standards they are compatible with. For example at the bottom of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3PMU4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it has a comparison chart.

Replacing a few outlets with USB outlets. Just plug in and charge, never have to worry about finding the adapter again.

I just tried charging mine with a couple different USB chargers.

1. 500 mA brick: didn't recognize it while on, but when I turned the tablet off and replugged it in, it started to charge.
   
   
2. 700 mA USB outlet: recognized it as AC charging. Not sure how long it would take; I suspect a while.
   
   I'd say if you need a charge and you don't have the supplied 2 amp brick, turn off the tablet first and you should be good.

Sorry for not being clear on this.

It's currently a single unit with two outlets in it (like this).

One of the two outlets is "always on", the other is controlled by a switch (so you can plug in a lamp or other light source that is then controlled via switch at the door vs on the light).

I was hoping to swap the existing unit for one that included USB ports. I wanted to maintain the 1 outlet always hot, 1 controlled by switch configuration I already had.

According to /u/trekkerscout they do not make a receptacle unit that will allow that so I'll have to choose to have the whole thing be on the switch or the whole thing always on.

As far as the safety warning, thanks for the reminder. I always kill the power at the circuit breaker (and I make sure I do it myself, I know a few guys who have had issues because their buddy/dad/colleague killed the wrong breaker so I take extra care to make sure it's right) but it's a good warning anytime you deal with exposed wiring.

I don’t think you’ll need something special, just something that is rated for 15 Amps.
If it’s possible, I’d keep where the extension cable and EVSE connect off the ground, in case of flooding.
If you’re really worried, you could get a GFCI on the outlet that will shut off electricity to the EVSE.

Extension Cable

GFCI

Combination USB Charger

I want to list two more things, but RULESSSS Ughhh.

> LED indicator light glows to notify user that device is charging and will go off when a full charge is achieved

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7740W-K-Combination/dp/B007NC5GI4

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407732574&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+outlet

The plugs I have were $10/each so I guess it's cheaper actually?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/

If you wanna run bigger stuff off of them get the 15A ones though: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS105P3-Anywhere-Required-Assistant/dp/B07HGSRF1R/

Why not just replace the outlet with a USB outlet?

USB Outlet:
https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU2154A-Charger-Receptacle-Screwless/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499615819&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+outlet

Wall Mounts (3x):
https://www.amazon.com/Skateboard-Hanger-Vintage-Completes-Scooters/dp/B013F8H51U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499615873&sr=8-2&keywords=skateboard+mounts

And lots of velcro tape to hold the AC adapter to the wall behind the board.

Replace the outlet with one of these?

EATON TR7740W-K Combination Electrical Receptacle, 125 V, 15 A A, 1.9 x 3.8 x 5.9", White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NC5GI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9cR4Cb54KRGKS

4 for $30

Oh, I didn't realize. Hmm any of these is certified?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00SJ7Z7DQ
https://www.amazon.ca/TRC-90033-Shockshield-Portable-Protection/dp/B000XVG72G/
https://www.amazon.ca/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-Commercial-Auto-Reset-Grounded/dp/B00UOU6OVU/
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000MM3Z6C

http://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-Combination-Duplex-Receptacle-Charger/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422235047&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=leviton+usb+wall+receptacle

Install this:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C

Replacing the ceiling receptacle with one of these is also an option.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499740310&sr=8-1&keywords=leviton%2Busb&th=1 ?

For the price I find that they meet my needs.

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.amazon.com/Assistant-Control-Function-Required-Upgrade/dp/B07FVST9YN&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjQv7Hksb_lAhVpc98KHcaGBI0QFjAFegQIChAB&usg=AOvVaw0Mqy82KmdoOBWB2I1u6s48

The freezer cord plugs into the wall outlet socket mounted on the back side. this plus this.

That outlet is powered by the controller, which is powered through the cpu socket.

Or you can just take a rheostat or dimmer switch or whatever and and mount it in a wallbox inline with the AC and badabing badaboom your twenty dollar weller just got a whole lot fancier. The just use a thermocouple and sharpy to mark various temps around the dial.

This should do the trick. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00J3PMU4C?pc_redir=1409472304&robot_redir=1

That looks like absolute shit, like holy hell.

Couldn't even be arsed to align the damn things.

Like, for $20 you could accomplish exactly what he did, and retain your original outlets.

Also if you are unsure of how to replace an outlet, you can buy a GFCI outlet adaptor. Just plug it in.

https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-3-Wire-Adapter/dp/B00UOU6OVU/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00UOU6OVU&pd_rd_r=GQZ9YCVNQD0NK3CFP5TX&pd_rd_w=lm9kA&pd_rd_wg=vDC22&psc=1&refRID=GQZ9YCVNQD0NK3CFP5TX

Where is the outlet? Is the outlet itself accessible? You can buy a switch/outlet combo, wire the switch to control the outlet (they usually don't, but it's easy to do), cover with a suitable weatherproof enclosure, and then control the outlet and anything plugged into it with the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-SmartlockPro-Combination-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B017KUEWCO/ref=asc_df_B017KUEWCO

No I’m talking about in wall protectors

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280-W-Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B0006I33Y6

Seriously, they're $15 and stupid easy to install. Not to mention old hat.

If it's one of these then the black one is in a proper outlet too. The smh is that she used two USB power bricks instead of the USB ports, defeating the purpose of the new outlet.

The USB ports are too far apart I think to fit a pronged plug into them.

Why in Sam's hell would you link to an image when linking to the product would be easier for interested/potential customers:

• http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7745W-BOX-Combination/dp/B00B1GHC58/
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7740W-K-Combination/dp/B007NC5GI4

They look like this.

Here's an example of one with USB ports.

It's one of those things: There are probably more pressing issues in your house, but it's a relatively inexpensive and simple change. In my case, one of the outlets I'll use regularly is worn out, so I'm going to replace it with a USB-port outlet, since I often charge my tablet there. Over time we'll replace other switches and outlets in that room with the decorator style.

I actually put this one in https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3PMU4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It does not have a breakable tab though but thought I would show you one with a lower price.

This is the one I picked up prior to powering on my SpaceBucket and I haven't tripped a breaker. $10 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UOU6OVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note, prior to the SpaceBucket, in the place I am currently living (has bad wiring and circuits) and I was tripping breakers.

I never once tripped and i've been running my SpaceBucket(s) for over 2 months now.