Reddit mentions: The best steering & suspension tools

http://www.tooltopia.com/mayhew-tools-29910.aspx

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6295.aspx

Both of those are a little cheaper on tooltopia and you don't have to pay tax (or at least, I don't, idk what the rules are for who does and doesn't) or shipping on orders over $75.

For long term use, I'd probably trust Astro Pneumatic's brand name over Ztech. I've always had great luck from AP tools, and they have an identical looking kit for $9 more on Amazon. Many years ago, I bought a cheap (holy crap, just looked it up and I paid almost $50 for that shipped) piston kit from ebay, it lasted about a year. The pin on the main plate sheared off. But that was a long time ago, maybe they're cheaper and better now?

Something to keep in mind with that inner tie rod tool, it doesn't have a lifetime warranty, and the mechanism will break at some point, and it's $52 for the replacement part. I have one, but I rarely use it. It's usually easier to just turn the wheel all the way and use some Knipex Cobra pliers.

I do most of my tool shopping between Amazon, Tooltopia, and eBay anymore. Between the three, you can usually find a pretty good deal.

I certainly trust OTC tools, I've never really had any problems and have a lot of them (and a lot of them that are rebranded as Mac/Matco/Cornwell).

These are the spring compressors I have, only problem I've had is that the little nub on the pin that prevents flying parts if it slips? That thing sometimes is too large to fit over the spring.

I have a Mac EM710 multimeter, and a Fluke 77 IV also. I like the Fluke better because the Mac turns on in AC for whatever freaking reason (srsly, it's a multimeter primarily marketed at auto techs working exclusively with DC, made by a company that almost exclusively sells to auto techs, but the damn thing turns on in AC every single time. wtf.), but I like the Mac better because the body is more square so it'll sit on it's side easier.

Power Probe's are also super duper handy, you can quickly check if something has power and ground without having to change the other end of your test light, and you can quickly apply power to check if a component is functioning. And they're super cheap on Amazon these days. That makes me sad, I paid like $200 for my PP3!

Having had a VW of that vintage, straight cash is best.

In all seriousness, this is useful in a couple of ways, other wise a gift card or something from the VW (Jbugs and the like) catalogs would be awesome, since it's unclear what the van will need.

Oh wow thanks for letting me know!!

Are these ok?
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Motorcycle-Hardened-Protector-Sheaths/dp/B073RQB3H2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=kenway+tire+irons&qid=1562799310&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I need to use Amazon bc shipping is fast and I need this scooter for work!

Assuming you're talking about square taper, my favourite way is to use what I call the pickle fork. Remove the crank bolts first! Slide it behind the crank arm and smack it with a 4lb sledge hammer. I wouldn't use this method on a crankarm I wanted to save but it doesn't always damage the crankarm. I find it best to the bike upside down on the ground, keeps the hammer away from the rest of the frame.

This is the Shankly set, but it shows as currently unavailable. I’m sure other people make a similar set though.

Shankly 3 Piece Ball Joint Removal Tool and Ball Joint Separator Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0718SQWRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JMSDDbAN4P16M

This is the other set (looks like the price has gone up a good bit since I bought it)
UTOOL Quick Change Interchangeable Ball Joint Remover Puller Tool Set Tie Rod End Separator Remover Puller 20-30mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BHH1RQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4QSDDb7ZER9YX

Some gift ideas (disclaimer, it's my website): http://truckdrivergifts.com


Personally the gifts I would love most to receive would be either a Sta-Rat Tandem Release Tool or Audible.com gift certificate.

Well assuming your power steering pump and gear box are working correctly then hell yeah an alignment will do that. Even if those aren’t working it should center up at the very least.

Drag link and center link are pretty easy to do if your going to tackles those, a ball joint tool similar to this can be rented for free at autozone. It makes life way easy.

https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=asc_df_B003YVWHOE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241975700326&hvpos=1o8&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14180979640211089708&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031442&hvtargid=pla-382391363739&psc=1

If you end up doing this lemme know how it worked out!

It's pretty much a c-clamp with additional parts for proper clearances of everything. Like this. There are different kits of varying quality and number of parts to fit different vehicles.

*linked tool is for reference and not necessarily exactly what you need.

So I replaced one of my knuckles years ago and I suspected something wasn't quite perfect. I usually replace pads or rotors separately as they wear out so the issue showing itself in the form of uneven thickness wearing of the rotors (commonly mislabeled as "warping"), took a long time to appear if at all. But this summer I went on a road trip and put brand new rotors and pads on at the same time, stretching the calipers/slides to their max. By the end of the trip, the front right had noticeable dust buildup and there was steering shake under braking.

I've been accumulating tools for a while so it was time to tackle this without replacing the hub.

Tools I used:

• Dewalt DCF890B Impact plus rare 21mm deep 3/8 socket made removing and installing the lugs over and over easy. A bit of lube on the threads helped too. I opted for the slightly larger 21mm socket over the 13/16" because it fits the lugs on the Miata better.
  
  
• Fowler 72-520-757 Rotor and Ball Joint Gauge Set
  
  
• Ampro T29771 1/2 ratchet my go to breaker bar, which I can fairly accurately torque things to ~90lbs by feel.
  
  
• NAPA 3 thousands shim or NAPA 6 thousands shim you can get these several places but I wanted to be able to easily return them if needed. I used the 6.
  
  
• Gorilla 70027B (12mm x 1.25 thread)(21mm or 13/16" external) open ended lugs
  
  Most of my purchases were through Amazon Warehouse Deals and I paid 50% - 70% list price, some times with the help of camelcamelcamel.com

i replaced mine at 170k miles after a money shift. saw no signs of wear, but it made me sleep better at night knowing they were replaced. i used one of these tools to make the job easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-S2000-Spring-Compressor-engines/dp/B00J144A66

Buy a ball joint separator and save yourself some headaches....


[OTC AMAZON BALL JOINT SEPARATOR] (http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369198064&sr=8-1&keywords=ball+joint+separator)

Tighten it up real good. Take a hammer and tap the ball joint. BAM! It pops off. Kind of scary at first but it does the job nicely.

Btw my ball joint was a bitch to remove as it had some salt corrosion in it due to driving in snow. And compared to cheapies i've tried, this has a large opening so it fit nicely inside of my largest control arm.

THIS TOOL WILL NOT TEAR YOUR BOOTS!

[Ebay - Sunex 2 - 9/64 ball joint socket - $16.97 +$4.95 shipping]
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunex-10214-3-4-Dr-2-9-64-Ball-Joint-Impact-Socket-/390904357769?hash=item5b03b72389&item=390904357769&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr)

[Amazon - $21.68 + possible free shipping if you don't like Ebay] (http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-10214-64-Inch-Joint-Socket/dp/B003EZZUNU/)

It took me longer to type this than it did to find them. Google is your friend.

A strut spreader would be nice to help with the job

https://www.amazon.com/ITEQ-Suspension-Spreader-Dismantle-Volkswagen/dp/B07KK8ZQD1/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=strut+spreader&qid=1574871653&sr=8-3

I could be wrong, but I wonder if a set of adjustable camber bolts or camber plates would help? A camber plate basically goes on the outside of the camber mount to allow more adjustability than stock. By having a big washer on each side it could make up for your torn-up chassis part.


http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/replacing-camber-caster-bolts.252389/

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k100055

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80065-Camber-Adjusting-Kit/dp/B000C59Z68

If you have a puller the right size, use that. If not, some auto parts stores will loan tools for this kind of thing. I have one of these, works great.
OEMTOOLS Tools 27308 Ball Joint... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7TJ61S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

We started using these:

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010

It's labeled as a ball joint tool but it'll also pop out tie rod ends. Makes life far, far easier.

I am amazed you can get such a tool anywhere near $200.

This is what my local shop has.

Amazon link
This has been around for awhile. Mercedes have the same setup in inner hub seals that have to be pressed on. You find out which ones pretty quick when you tap them in with a hammer instead of pressing them

I used to use something like this if I wasn't replacing the joint https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KNCRDZJJ1QFV8D70J70W if I was replacing it I used a pickle fork and an air hammer.

Definitely not an electrical hole punch set. Automotive wheel bearing removal and install set. https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-23-Piece-Adapters-Replacement-Installer/dp/B01FLVOAZI/ref=asc_df_B01FLVOAZI/?

It could still be the intake gasket. Your mechanic does not under stand basic science or cars for that matter. When you car cools off the pressure in the cooling system drops and creates a suction so it pulls in oil from the intake gasket if its bad.

I just replaced a intake gasket on a customers car and he had no signs of coolant in the oil (I bet it may have shown up on an oil analysis, but not the naked eye). After changing no oil showing up in the coolant anymore.

Also make sure to buy this tool it will save a lot of time...

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-48300-Push-Rod-Remover/dp/B00DBMLY8G

My ball joint "claw" tool...

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1479163236&sr=1-3

It makes popping them out so much easier. After I failed to get the ball joint out on my old Grand Prix I went out and bought one of these things and got it out within 5 mins of opening the package.

It doesn't like this tool would work for your situation, but some sort of [Ball Joint Separator] (https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Joint-Separator/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519659123&sr=8-3&keywords=ball+joint+separator) might be worth picking up.

moog camber adj bolts they work well
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C59Z68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's correct- to replace the studs, you must replace pull the hub out of the bearing.

UNLESS, there is a spot where you can cut and bend the brake shield out of the way so you could bash the old lugs out and new ones in. Ericthecarguy has a video where he does this exact thing--he replaces lugs without pulling the hub.

I use this wheel bearing press. It makes easy work of almost any job without removing the whole knuckle.

OrionMotorTech 23-Piece FWD Front Wheel Drive Bearing Adapters Puller Press Replacement Installer Removal Tool Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLVOAZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wf3-BbMHRGCRQ

this tool made me a lot of money back when GM 3.1 engines were coming in every week for leaking intake manifold gaskets. It lets you remove and install the push rods without loosening all of the rocker arm nuts. That easily saves about an hour on the job, which really adds up over time.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-48300-Push-Rod-Remover/dp/B00DBMLY8G

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-48300-Push-Rod-Remover/dp/B00DBMLY8G

As a mechanic, we use something similar to test which side of wheel bearings has the speed sensor pickup.

At least it's not masquerading as a precision tool.

http://www.amazon.com/Fowler-72-520-757-Economy-Brake-Rotor/dp/B000R6VTZC

Reconnect the control arm to the frame, spray penetrating oil into the joint, apply downward pressure on the arm with a large prybar, and hit the side of the joint (on the steering knuckle) with a large hammer. It's important that you hold as much downward pressure as possible while hitting it with a hammer.

Or buy something like this, though you will probably still need to reconnect the other side of the arm.

The ballpoints are notoriously difficult to separate, you'll want to get one of these: GearWrench 3916D Universal Ball Joint Separator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YVWHOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gcZ5xb1FBKMBA