Reddit mentions: The best stereo 1/4 inch & 1/8 inch jack cables

Okay so I've got a solution for you.

https://www.amazon.com/KOTION-Over-ear-Gaming-Headphone-Headset/dp/B00Z924M58

My girlfriend got me this headset about 2-3 years ago for my birthday, and it's still in perfect working order.

I DID have to buy a cheap little audio/mic converter dealy so that it would connect to my DS4. I think it was like $10-$15 at my local Best Buy. BUT if you find a similar converter on amazon and bundle the two together I'm sure you'd get free shipping and it'd be around 40-50 dollars EDIT: I am bad at math and it actually would come out to around $30, check the links I posted!

These are meant for PC so to me they feel like high end headphones, sound quality is great and the mic is very clear and has pretty good noise cancellation. I have my mic set to a little above normal and people still really can't hear any noises in my room other than me.

But you said yours don't fit over your Psvr, these ones adjust and fit VERY comfortably. I have a pretty large head, too. Plus, they match the colors of the PS4/Psvr!

I hope this helps! I can update with some pictures if you'd like, too!

Edit: I found a cable adapter that even matches the headsets cord pattern! There's another one that's all black if you don't like the pink/teal default jack colors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_2/153-3904418-5173344?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9BBC6Q12TQQMD0V7V7J1

So with the headset and this adapter, it comes out to around 30 bucks. And I can attest to the quality. They are amazing headphones!

When you record with MIDI, you don't actually record any sound at all, you record which keys you press and when you press the sustain pedal and so on. All your actions, but no sound.


If you want to get the sound from the piano, you can use a cable from the headphone output on the piano, to the microphone input in your computer with a standard 3.5mm jack (unless you have a 1/4 inch in your piano, in which case you need the little transformer).

You will need a cable like this, but you'll most likely have one somewhere, it's a very standard cable.

Now you can just use any audio recording software you want. Audacity was mentioned, which could easily do it. I believe Windows has a built in sound recording feature, which could do it as well.


If you want to get a REALLY good sound, you should still use the MIDI format, but you'd have to get a good piano sound too. Here's a collection of good sounds. It's quite expensive though. You can edit your track with software too, I don't know if Audacity can do that, it might, but I use something called Reaper. If you made a missplay or something went wrong, you can remove a note, add notes, change velocity, everything. It's quite good and not that difficult at all. With the piano sound software (Komplete) you can use it in real-time too, to make your piano sound like the grandest of all the grand pianos, for an amazing sound, though I'd suggest you go for Synthogy then which, to me at least, has the superior sound.

Whelp, I went out on a tangent here, good luck OP!

EDIT: How do you like your piano? I have the Privia 850 here next to me, just waiting for christmas to set it up.

> or is there something I can download on my laptop that can just record the audio from me playing it?

Yes, assuming your laptop has a functional microphone you can do the following:

1. Download Audacity for free from http://www.audacityteam.org/download/windows/ and install it.
   
   
2. Launch Audacity and click OK to hide the tip window.
   
   
3. Select Edit > Preferences from the top menu and then under Devices > Recording make sure that the drop-down next to "Device:" is set to your laptop's microphone. Then press OK.
   
   
4. Click the red Record button at the top. You should then see blue waves when you make noise, indicating the microphone is working correctly.
   
   
5. With Audacity recording from the microphone, play the tape from the cassette with the volume loud enough that the waveform nicely fills the bar like this. Make sure the sound isn't flat-lining or clipping at the top/bottom of the bars or else the volume is too loud.
   
   
6. When the tape (or side) is done recording, hit the yellow STOP button at the top.
   
   
7. Select File > Export Audio. Give it a name and navigate to where you want it to save to, such as the Desktop. Under "Save as Type" select either "WAV (Microsoft) signed 16-bit PCM" or "FLAC" so that the audio does not get compressed or lossy. Then click Save. You don't need to enter any meta data, just click OK again.
   
   
8. Upload the exported WAV/FLAC file(s) either to Soundcloud (requires a free account) or https://mega.nz/ (no account required).
   
   
9. Once uploaded, you will be able to share a link. This is what you can post to Reddit :)
   
   > But I only see holes for "6V/DC, ear spkr, MIC, REM". Am I going to need some kind of cord
   
   If your laptop has a "line in" or "auxiliary" port then you can run a 1/8" standard audio cable from the EAR SPKR port on your cassette recorder to this port on your laptop. Then you can follow the same steps above except in Step 3 you may need to change the sound-in device to "Auxiliary" or "Line In" whichever shows up. A lot of laptops have mic/auxiliary combined into one, and when you plug in a device it will ask if it is a microphone or line-in device. Select line-in device. You can look up your laptop model to see what audio input ports it supports. Then you can record in Audacity and follow all of the steps above and the audio will be a direct copy from the cassette. But the first method is certainly acceptable as well!

I see this question asked a lot and I have a very cost-effective solution that I notice a lot of people aren't aware of. I was thinking of doing a video guide of it though there are similar methods/walkthroughs on youtube.

DISCLAIMER: This may not be the best method for your specific setup. My method is not the neatest/simplest of setups, but it is cheap. Also, with this setup, your party members' voices will be recorded/streamed with or without their permission, so you should probably inform your party members before you start recording/streaming.

This is my setup for my Xbox One (should also work with PS4, though you may need different cables because IIRC Xbox One uses a proprietary 3.5mm socket):

Things you'll need:

1x 3.5mm splitter that splits mic and speaker.
This is the one I use (may need a specific one for PS4): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTIOY9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2x 3.5mm to 3.5mm audio cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1x PC-compatible headset and microphone, preferably USB. (I use Astros A50)

STEPS:

1. Plug the 3.5mm splitter into your controller.
   
   
2. Plug 1 3.5mm cable into the speaker that was split from your controller and plug the other end of that cable into your microphone input on your PC.
   The speaker audio coming from your controller is all the sounds you would hear if you had a headset plugged into your controller. What we're doing here is routing that sound into your PC's microphone input so your PC reads it as an audio input device.
   
   
3. Plug 1 3.5mm cable into the mic that was split from your controller and plug the other end of that cable into the speaker output on your PC.
   The mic split from your controller is the microphone input that you would normally use to speak to your party if you had a headset plugged into your controller. What we're doing here is making it so that sound coming out of your PC is now being routed to the controller and therefore to the party/game chat.
   
   
4. Plug your PC-compatible headset/mic into your PC.
   
   
5. Right-click the volume icon on your PC and click on Recording Devices.
   
   
6. Right-click the headset mic you plugged in during Step 4 and set it as Default Device and Default Communications Device, then Right-Click it again and click on Properties. Now click the Listen tab. Click the dropdown menu that says "Playback through this device:" and choose the speaker output that goes to your controller (see Step 2). Check the box that says "Listen to this device" and hit OK. Now any audio that is picked up from the mic on your PC headset will get forwarded to your controller.
   
   
7. While still in the Recording tab of your Sound window, right-click the microphone input that came from your controller (see Step 3). Click the Listen tab and under the dropdown menu chose your PC headset as the "Playback through this device:". Check the "Listen to this device" box and hit OK. Now all the sound coming out of your controller (ie party chat) will get forwarded through your PC's mic input and to your headset's speaker. NOTE: You may also have to change the volume of this under the Levels tab.
   
   And that's pretty much it. Phew. You will need to tweak some things based on the PC mic/headset you have.
   
   Things I recommend using with this setup:
   
   Adobe Audition to add filters to your mic for improved audio quality on your mic (you'll need VAC for this).

Sorry for the delay.. I forgot to reply.

I'm sure you already got the adapter and cable. The adapter is perfect and the cable might be OK. I would look for one that is only for audio (red and white connectors only, not the yellow video cable.) This one would be good - https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483627337&sr=8-4&keywords=rca+audio+to+3.5mm

With your budget in mind I highly recommend the $180 U-Turn Orbit Basic turntable. I have one that I got with an upgraded cartridge (Grado Black) and it is a superb table. https://uturnaudio.com/collections/all

Speakers... hmmm... That's tougher. Used ones on Craiglist can be great. Just be sure that the foam surrounds are in good shape (this is the foam ring around each driver) and check some online reviews. For new speakers, I think these look like a great option for the price - https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-14M-Reference-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00MGQAH2M/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1483627753&sr=1-1&keywords=bookshelf+speakers&refinements=p_89%3AKlipsch

OK, I will mention that the volume of standard audio and the calling app is stored separately and you may literally have to turn up the volume on the iPhone during the call even though music is fine.

What I think is happening is you are trying to connect an unbalanced device to a balanced jack.

The only 1/4" stereo jack on your interface or mixer is labeled Phones or Headphones. Other than Insert jacks, which I won't cover, all other 1/4" jacks are mono and able to use balanced or unbalanced connections.

RCA and 1/4" TS cables are mono cables. They are also unbalanced cables.

XLR and 1/4" TRS cables are mono and balanced.

Insert cables are special, as are headphone cables. These are 1/4" TRS connections but they are different. They are unbalanced.

OK, unbalanced cables are what you are used to. Nothing special.

Balanced cables are three wire cables. The connector can be XLR or a TRS plug, usually 1/4" TRS. There isn't actually anything special about the cables or connectors per se. The jacks you plug them into are special.

If you take a piece of professional audio gear (your mixer and interface for example) and connect them with a TRS cable, that cable will carry a mono signal. It will also be somewhat immune to radio interference from lights, refrigerators, and compressors kicking in, most anything that would cause interference in a long audio cable.

What happens is the Tip and Sleeve pair carry a standard mono audio signal, just like on a TS cable. The Ring Sleeve pair also carry the same mono audio signal, but this signal is 180 degrees out of phase with the other copy.

What does that mean? Let's say the voltage in the cable is varying up and down between 1 volt and -1 volt. At a given point, say the five-second mark the TS copy of the audio is at 1V. At that exact time, the RS audio is at -1V. Other times the two signals will be at -.2V and .2V and every other value, but always with a different sign except at zero. If you looked on an oscilloscope, the waves made would be mirror images.

Why would anyone do this? Immagine you have an old refrigerator or big AC unit nearby and it kicks on. This can cause interference in the various lines nearby. Usually, it doesn't matter. With audio, it does. You could hear it kick on, or a rumble in the background on all the cables or lots of weird effects, all bad for the audio.

Let's look at that five-second mark, again. An AC unit kicks in and imparts electrical noise of +0.2V to the signal. That makes the TS signal 1.2V. It gets added to the RS signal as well but makes that signal -0.8 V (-1V + 0.2V = -0.8V). Both signals were affected the same.

Here is the magic. The balanced jack that sends the signal sends the TS signal as normal and inverts that signal (makes it 180 degrees out of phase) for the RS signal. The receiving balanced jack reverses this, adds the signals together and divides them by two. SO the interfered with TS signal of 1.2B is added to the inverted RS signal, now 0.8V to get 2.0V which is divided by 2 to get 1V, the original, un-interfered with value.

Balanced cables aren't affected much by interference. Great, right? What's that to you? The only way the jack knows there is a balanced or unbalanced signal is if the cable is TRS, and assumes it's balanced. The jacks just aren't smart.

Now, consumer equipment rarely understands the idea of a balanced cable so if you plug in a TRS cable into the iPhone, it thinks stereo and outputs a stereo signal. The interface sees a TRS plug and assumes mono balanced signal and does weird stuff to the signal. A call is mono, so both copies of the signal are the same. using the 1V at a five-second example, the interface takes the TS 1 V signal, the RS 1 volt signal. Inverts the RS signal to -1V which gets added to the other and you get 0V. Divide that by two if you want but 0V is silence. This happens for all the audio making the call effectively silent. Anything you do hear is because it's an imperfect system or the two outputs are not quite in phase when generated.

If you place a stereo sound, say music with a big stereo separation, you should get really weird distortions. The signals won't be perfectly canceling each other out like the mono signal.

So, what does this mean? Use TS cables on the interface or mixer side. A Y cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C/

or a cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-310-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3I/

or maybe this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D/

Any questions? Sound like what you have experienced?

!

So, lots of information there, you've got some god questions.

In regards to the headset, you're right that a 50Ω set really shouldn't need an amp on its own to power them to a sufficient volume out of a computer. The reason to get a DAC/Amp would be to get cleaner sound from a discrete piece of hardware. If you aren't looking for ultimate sound quality out of your headset, you're probably fine with the outs on your PC (As unpopular as that opinion is around here, it's true). You can always try the headphones out without an amp, then if you're hearing hissing or lack clarity with your PC headphone out, then you can get a separate DAC/Amp and split the mic out using something like this.

In regards to the surround sound, I would probably save some cash and go with two sets of LSR305s rather than a set of those and the Logitech system. This way you can tune the speakers for your room individually, and I'm certain that the 305s are much higher quality than the Z906, even without the sub. The only hitch there is that you won't have a center channel, but many of us here use a phantom center provided by the front mains rather than a dedicated center channel.

You might need some fancy switchgear to have your audio interface connected at the same time as your surround sound, and all of that, but if you can sort that out, I think having quadraphonic 305s will sound better than the Logitech system.

Also, you can probably use your audio interface for whatever second set of headphones you go with, save a bit of money there. If you do go with a separate DAC/Amp for the second set of headphones, I've really come to appreciate the price/performance value of my Modi2u. I've returned higher priced DACs because I just couldn't tell the difference, or thought they sounded worse. It's a matter of preference, though, so demo what you can.

Hope that helps!

Hey, I am also using a set of the MK1 version of the LSR305 with a PC. I think everyone is spot-on about the ground loop isolator. If you are looking for a cheap fix, try that first.


Beyond that, like many have suggested - the on-board audio from a PC can be noisy. An external DAC is also a good suggestion, but also a more complicated one, in terms of what all you will need to buy. If you wish to go this route, I will make a recommendation that I can confirm works very well (noise-free, even at high volume) with the LSR305's:

1. Lexicon Alpha - Currently $59 (regularly $49, track price on camelcamelcamel.com if you want to wait.) Yes, technically is a DAC, but is considered a USB recording interface. Think of it as a USB sound card. It is designed to be used with powered studio monitors like the LSR305's - and will take advantage of their balanced audio input capability to cancel out noise. Bonus capability - a physical volume knob (no reaching behind the JBL's, or trying to get to PC soft mixer while in a game, etc), and adds an aux input - you could connect your phone and mix phone+PC audio at the same time.
   
   
   
2. 1/4" TRS balance audio cable - get 2, one for each speaker, in the length you prefer. See the 3 contacts (between the 2 black rings)? Each speaker will get a balanced signal from the Lexicon Alpha - a positive audio signal, negative audio signal, and ground. The negative+positive balanced signal cancels out noise.
   
   
   Either way don't stress over it - the LSR305's are a great choice.

You actually have one of the best android devices for that second to the LG v20. It supports Bluetooth and USB microphones. Otherwise get a splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486925540&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Headphone+mic+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41p4oX5fWXL&ref=plSrch

Go to the galaxy apps store and get the stock voice recorder it works great. It'll record with dynamic gain so no matter how loud it still won't distort. You can scream into it and it'll sound fine. It's amazing.

There are also great Samsung pro audio solutions too that'll let you do professional 24 bit recordings with live processing

The LS305 are nice speakers, I think they hit well above most of the 5 inch budget studio monitors out there, but that is just my opinion. Studio monitors are great for computers becasue they are designed for nearfield listening. Most studio monitors have XLR inputs, it's kind of standard. The JBL LS305 can be connected via XLR or TRS. which are just as good as RCA cables. You really need to decide wether you want an external DAC or to run off your computers Audio. The cheapest DAC route I would consider is the Behringer UCA202 At $30.00. It takes the music signal from the computer via USB cable to the DAC and provides RCA outputs. You can spend a lot more on a DAC but this will work. I bought one for my girlfriends laptop and it works well. This really comes down to your budget for the DAC. Most of them will be able to connect to your speakers and some may require an adapter cable. The Benchmark DAC1 I use has balanced outputs and RCA outputs. I have tried them both with the JBL's and can not really hear a difference.

If you have a source with rca outputs something like this cable will work to connect the JBL's.
RCA Cable to TRS

If you want to output from your computer something like this should work.
Mini jack to TRS

My friend owns a pair of these Dayton B652-AIR bookshelf speakers which I think sound really great for the price. I've heard good things about the cheaper model as well. AFAIK, the only difference between these two speakers is the tweeter, and I gather that it's worth the extra money, but I haven't heard the low-end model myself. The AIR model is definitely worth it for the price.

You can power these with the little Lepai 2020 amp, or (even better) a second-hand home theater receiver if you can find one cheap. The Lepai has both a Treble and Bass knob for basic curve tweaking, and a pushbutton "pass-through" that disables them. Most receivers are likely to have more features, more power, and better tone control.

All you'll need then is an appropriate amount of speaker wire (It doesn't need to be anything fancy) and a decent 3.5mm to RCA cable

Presto Dunzo!

I know that you wanted to keep it to $80 for a new system, but if you get everything through Parts Express and it breaks $100, you'll get free shipping. Check out the cart I built.

I'd guess that it's not possible unless you have the music stored on your phone (not streamed). Most cars (at least from my experience) that don't have "cutting edge-ish" technology like Android Auto/Apple CarPlay don't see it as a phone, they see it as a media device to look for music on. Thus, they won't stream music playback, they will look for the files and try to play music from them. That's what it sounds like is happening with your old iPhone too.

The best shot as far as playing media that exists on device storage is looking for an option that might appear when you're charging the phone that says what it connected to your car as. It sounds like your phone might be connecting for charging only, i.e. no data connection. If you tap that notification or go into the developer settings (tap build number 7 times or so in about phone in settings), you might be able to change it to something to make your car actually recognize files on your phone.

Bluetooth is a different story, because your car treats it like an audio input like auxiliary input. Speaking of which...

Does your car have an auxiliary input (might be labeled as "aux" or "aux in")? If so, you can get a 3.5mm auxiliary cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK and just plug it in like that. If your only concern is audio quality, the cable should fix that. Just plug one end into your car, and the other into your phone's headphone jack.

Not sure where your aux jack would be, it might be inside the armrest (mine is in my '19 WRX). If not it might be next to your 12V DC out (cigarette lighter port), wherever that is, or next to your USB port.

Also, I'll add that using the aux jack is probably your best bet here, and will give you the same audio quality as if you were to plug headphones into your phone (at least, as close as your car's audio system can come to a pair of headphones, at which point it's the car, not the connection). Also those cables are super cheap.

If you somehow don't have an auxiliary port, there exists a weird gadget that plugs into your cigarette lighter port and has an auxiliary cable at the other end. You turn on your car radio and set the thing to the station you're on, and it'll play music through that. It's odd, but it does work (as long as you have a good station to use it with). Like this one, although that specific example is out of stock.

So... very good news! I took a chance and this cable fits and works perfectly:

AmazonBasics 3.5mm Male to Male... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73MUQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I also picked up these just as a test and they too fit and work perfectly if you’d prefer to use a different cable:

Josi Minea x 2 Pcs 3.5mm Gold... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCKU7YI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Very happy!

You are talkin' to Mr. Cheap-o his-self... I don't have any expendable moolah, so I try to keep everything as lo-bux as possible!

What I use is Audacity, a free audio editing program that's fairly easy to figure out. With it you can record as many tracks as you want (one at a time) and clean them up, add effects, pan 'em left-n-right... then with the equally-easy-to-install LAME MP3 Encoder you convert your work to MP3 format.

If you have Movie Maker or something similar on your PC you can align the video with the MP3, save it as a WMV and go from there.

I have a cord that is 1/4" on one end, and the other end fits the "mic" input on the side of my 'puter. I can record directly to Audacity that way, or I can hook up a microphone in front of a cab. I even have an old "Guitar Hero" USB mic that works in certain situations. (Two bucks at GoodWill!)

Hope this helps!

> Sennheiser HD 280s

Ow, those are indeed not bad at all. But the X1's will very likely surprise you. I mean, I currently on the HD 598s, which are very neutral / balanced headphones, designed for instrumental, classical, vocal music. Despite that, even with these headphones and a pretty budget sound card (don't buy a sound card!) they do sound pretty good when listening to electronic music, but they lack in the bass department, I mean.. it's obviously there, but it isn't very punchy.

The X1's don't even need to get an external DAC/AMP. I mean, they don't technically need an AMP at all, so you could consider to simply use the on-board audio for a start and see how you like the sound.
Note the X1's do need about a week of burn-in. This means that they will start to sound a bit better after a decent amount of usage.
Also I just read that the stock cable isn't that great, since it's a pretty high impedance cable. Which does affect the bass.
Cheap solution to fix this right away.

I also just read that you don't want to have a big head. If you do, they might be a bit tight / clamping.

---

Source
This is a big list, but you can simply hit "ctrl + f" and search for X1 to get a nice detailed review for these headphones in terms of build quality, comfort, design issues, sound stage & amping.

Haven't played the game myself so I don't know if this would suffice, but you could just hook up an audio cable to your computer and record via analog. It's not 100% accurate (compared to digital), but you probably won't be able to tell the difference unless you're an audio engineer by trade.

If your PC has a microphone jack, you can use a double male 3.5mm audio cable, also available from your local electronics store. Audacity is a free and fairly powerful audio editing program you can use to record and clean up the samples, if needed.

If you don't have a mic plug, you can buy a cheap USB adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2USB-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B00I6ILPPC
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO

I don't know if microphone jacks are necessarily made for this though, so as a precaution you'll want to keep your PC's microphone auto gain controls and stuff all disabled, and keep your Vita audio very low at first, record, then work up from there. I doubt there'd be any overload problems, but at the very least you want to keep the audio volume from clipping, and you can always adjust volume and such in Audacity.

Unless there's some export function, the only other way to get the music out perfectly would be to download the ROM and hack into it, but that's probably more trouble than it's worth.

As far as copyright goes, as long as you own the game, nobody's going to really care if you do this for personal use.

Hey everyone!

I was wondering if anyone has any experience hooking up a Crack with their Xbox One Controller. Last year I was running my ATH-M50 (with a Modmic) directly though my controller and that worked with no issues.

However, after building my Crack and getting the HD650, I've just tried to plug in the Crack into the 3.5 jack in the controller - but get no audio. Plugging the HD650 directly into the controller does work though - but obviously then they are not amped.

Anyone have any suggestions? I am cross-posting on /r/XboxOne and on the Bottlehead forum as well.

Please save me from resorting to using them unamped lol

Here's the RCA Cable I am using from my Crack: which works perfectly fine through my laptop and phone

Deleted my separate post as I realized it was not in accordance with Rule 3.

I love Amazon but those cheap $2 ones didn't last long for me.

I've bought a Monster one (because I was feeling extra risky and felt like throwing my money away) that didn't last for 6 months.

I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406677494&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=medialink+aux

and it's still running strong for over a year.

Good luck!

I have the 1204USB which is slightly different than your mixer, but I am pretty sure you were on the right track with the "FX send" port -- on my mixer it's the "AUX send", and it's what I use.

You need to pick up a Mono 1/4 ->3.5mm cable like this one. This will take the mono signal from the "FX send" and put it into a stereo signal (Which will just be the mono signal in both ears, but that's fine for a microphone). Then you'll create a mix minus by putting all the red "FX" channel knobs to -infinity except for your microphone's channel, which should be at "".

Hopefully that works for you!

I'll explain what I have today, but i'm hoping to swap it out for a full sonos connect:amp setup. Also i'm not sure how much detail you want, so i'll describe all of it.
 
I have in ceiling speakers in every room except:

1. the bathroom where I have a Sonos Play1.
   
2. the living room where I have a Marantz SR5008.
    
   The in-ceilings are hooked into a NuVo Concerto 8 zone audio amp. That provides both power and signal distribution.
    
   I have a different version of these baluns which allows for 2 different audio signals over a single cat5. I have one in the living room, the other in the central wiring closet (where the NuVo is).
   On the Living Room side, one red&white L/R pair is plugged into a Marantz source, the other red&white L/R pair is connected to a 3.5mm->analog adapter cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1473619743&sr=8-6&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca .
    
   On the NuVo side, I have a Sonos Connect as one source, and the second pair from above (3.5mm cable) as a second source. The first pair is connected to an unpowered zone output.
    
   This allows me to plug a phone/laptop into the living room 3.5mm, send the signal back to the NuVo, and play wherever I want. If I want to also play in the living room (which i almost always do), I turn on the NuVo unpowered zone, turn on the Marantz, set to the "NuVo source" setting on the Marantz. The signal travels from the laptop to the NuVo then back to the Marantz. Yes thats taking the long way, but that way I can play the same song in every room of the house synchronized.
    
   re:Do these work over a switch: These particular ones do NOT, they require an end-to-end connection. If wiring is an issue, you could get a bluetooth receiver/transmitter. I've also got that but for a totally different purpose & location. I got a cheap one and regret it, as it often loses connection with the central wiring closet so I need to repair it.
    
   Hopefully that wasn't way more detail than you wanted.

u/astallasalion, if you're willing to help I could use a bit of advice for what cables/splitters I need to get these running.

I've never bothered with quality sound before or external speakers. At the suggestion of a colleague, I picked up two MkII 305's a couple of weeks ago and now I'm in a bit over my own head. I'm using them for my new PC build, which I'm about to buy the parts for. I'll likely be using an Aorus X570 Master motherboard in the build.

Since I'm running two 305s, will I be good to go if I buy a set of cables, like these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062QPERU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, and just plug the Right/Left TRS jack into the 305s and then the 3.5 jack to the motherboard? Or is there something more/different I need to do? If it's just the y-splitter cables, are the ones I linked good enough for this purpose? (They were linked in this thread, which is why I mentioned them.)

Thanks for your help!

People may argue with me, but you can have great results going from you computer's 3.5mm unbalanced output to the 1/4-inch inputs on the speakers. You'll need a splitter cable like this (and maybe a 1/4-inch extension). Unless you have long cable runs to the speakers (more than 10 ft or so) there will be no quality difference. I'm assuming your computer has a decent sound output. If it's a Mac it probably does. The DAC you linked to would need RCA to 1/4-inch cables (NOT XLR to 1/4-inch cables cables) but that would also work.

While correctly configured XLR cables are less likely to pick up noise, that's not likely where your noise will be coming from. Your key word is setup. The correct way to set up any powered speaker is to turn your computer (or whatever source you're using) volume all the way up, then set the volume on each speaker to be as loud as you normally listen. When you turn the volume down at the speakers, that turns down the noise, too. When you turn it down at the computer, the noise stays. That's why this is the best way to do it. These speakers have a sensitivity switch, too. Start with +4 dBu. If that isn't loud enough, change to the -10 dBV setting.

You can use an app your phone to measure the volume. About 90 dB at your listening position is about as loud as you should listen for any extended period of time.

Hope this helps.

Yeah best bet and still pretty cheap is to go to good will and get a stereo deck cassette deck, they usually are only 5 to 10 and get a cheap wire on Amazon thats a headphone jack to AV. Here's one for 6 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A7J1ANA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519364428&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3.5+to+av&dpPl=1&dpID=51hPVy4zynL&ref=plSrch

Plug the 3.5 in your phone the other end in the cassete deck and it'll Probably sound perfect

Hii everyone!

I am absolutely new to the high end headphone scene and would love it if you help out a noob :)

I recently managed to get on the drop for Sennheiser HD6XX from Massdrop and can't wait for it to arrive!

I'll mostly listen music from my MacBook Pro. I know I need a good amp/dac to get the most out of this pair of headphones.

As such, I just ordered a Schiit Magni 2 as I had a limited budget and could only spend on either a DAC or an AMP.

Now my question is, is there something else I need to purchase to make this a complete setup? And, will the cable in the link work for me to connect the amp to the laptop?

Thank you in advance! :)

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Oh I have no idea what cord the H151 has. I've never used it, but sometimes people miss out on it so I thought maybe that option would of help. So is it just one usb that works both as mic/sound. Or is it like aux output thing where it's mic/sound in 1. If so that's your problem(2 in 1 cord non usb). Although it's an easy fix just pick one of these up https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483076629&sr=8-2&keywords=mic+and+headphone+splitter

only laptops as far as I know besides phones have the ability to use 2 in 1 cables. Since most desktop's don't include it. You can do that or go USB choice is yours :)

A KVM is possible, but the big advantage of a KVM is that it not only allows you to share a screen across two sources, but also an attached keyboard and mouse. Unless you intend to use a keyboard and a mouse with your Switch, I'd go for a far less expensive, 2-port HDMI switch. That's all you need if you're only concerned about video. Plus, I'd argue it has more future utility. It'll be smaller, because it has less ports and the ports it has are smaller. You could bring it with you when you travel and hook multiple things up to HDTV's at hotels or friends' places. Plus, most newer displays have HDMI ports. Buying a DVI KVM (or even a DVI-only video switcher) is going to be more expensive and clunkier.

Here's an example of stuff that would work. I am not endorsing these products at all, I'm just picking the first well-reviewed looking hit from my search results (on Amazon):

search terms: "2-port HDMI switch"

looks good: DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-Direction only $8.. You won't get anywhere near that with a KVM.

and then, with search terms "HDMI to dvi", you could probably use 1 or 2 of either these:

HDMI to DVI (cable)

or these HDMI to DVI (adapter)

If you have a ton of extra hdmi and/or dvi cables, you might prefer the adapter, otherwise you could use it on its own in cable-form. Keep in mind that in a typical setup, the Switch's audio is going through the HDMI cable as well, and whether you used a HDMI switch or a DVI KVM/switch, the connection to your monitor is going to have to terminate in DVI, and that DVI won't carry the audio. Does your monitor even have speakers? Even if it did, you most likely won't get any audio over DVI. I haven't tested this myself, but I just did a little research and found you can use the headphone jack on the Switch, while docked, to get it's audio, so depending on what's going to be playing your sound, you might need one or more things from this list:

stereo miniplug cable (male to male) - for going from Switch to portable speakers or anything with a line-in

miniplug couplers - handy if you need to plug the above into another male cable

miniplug to RCA adapter cable - for going from the Switch to a stereo system or similar

​

​

Here is the exact cable I have used before in the past. You want to make sure your gain stages are set correctly; Because the mic inputs on phones and tablets are pretty hot, and are designed to add gain passive mics. You'll more than likely have to turn the volume down going in to make sure your not clipping it..

I’m impressed with how fast you responded! Thank you :) ya I’m fine with soldering and was planning on having to do it. Curious, if you don’t mind answering, can any 4 pole 3.5 mm wire work? Like this one from amazon? (I would strip one end off and then solder.)

Zeskit 6 Feet Premium Audio Extension Cable, Nylon Braided, 3.5mm TRRS 4 Poles Jack (Male to Female) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1R7F2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yhVDCbDRKMNHD

I own a pair of these, they're phenomenal for the price, especially this sale price. Extremely comfortable, great mic and great drivers. I recommend ditching the USB dongle it comes with and using the 3.5mm jack (you may or may not need a splitter).

> So there really isn't a term for something like a bookshelf speaker that has an amp?

"Powered studio monitor" should get you pretty far, and the JBL LSR305 is a great one for the money. I had just assumed it was too large and ugly for your needs - I was under the impression you were still looking for something like this.

EDIT - to ensure you get both audio channels, you'll need some sort of mono converter, something like this

The MDR10BRT will only pass the mic input over bluetooth. In order to get audio through the headphones, you have to make sure that the bluetooth headphones are the default audio output/playback device. The reason why the mic works over bluetooth is likely because it's the only mic input that your PC has connected.

For the record, if you try to hardwire the headphones into your PC, they will only work as headphones (there is no way for the headphones to pass the built in mic input over the 3.5mm wire). The wire with inline mic will work, but you need a specific splitter. I use this Maeline splitter for my setup (SteelSeries flux and this boom mic) and it works perfectly. Also, I highly recommend the boom mic that I referenced above. You'll get much better recording quality than those inline mics.

they are a little bigger of what I had in mind, but I have to admit that the Sys is beautiful

I had something like this in mind:

something like:

• https://www.amazon.com/Volbox-Adjuster-Stereo-Control-3-5mm/dp/B00XDKKQ9E
  
• http://www.instructables.com/id/Digispark-Volume-Control/
  
• http://es.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-zx
  
  
  
  

Amplifier

PA horn

CB to Amp cable (standard 3.5mm aux cable)

You’ll need speaker wire to run from the Amp to the PA and you’ll need to power the amp somehow. They sell an AC to DC power supply but if installing in a 12VDC vehicle you can run 12v to it directly but you’ll just need the barrel connector / plug end. You can buy those on amazon as well or if you have access to electronic scraps or spare laptop power supplies you can hack one off there and wire it to your system.

To use the speaker without the amplifier, not sure how loud it would be, probably not very because the CB can only put out like 12-15 Watts on PA, you can use this cable to hook the speaker to the CB

Hope that helps.

Yes, so the easiest thing you could do to hear both at the same time is connect the headphone jack on the piano to the audio input on your MacBook (depending on year, this might be a separate plug, or it might be the same as the headphone plug). You'd use something like this: https://amzn.com/B00NO73MUQ

The Mac should automatically send the input from the piano to the speakers on your Mac (if it doesn't you may have the output muted, you can change this in the sound system preference on the "input" tab. Make sure the device isn't set to microphone, but to line in, and the output isn't muted at the bottom.)

Now the cool thing is you can play garage band and you should hear both the piano and garage band coming out of the speakers on your Mac. Since you probably don't want to listen to it all through your tiny Mac speakers, you could then plug some nice amplified external speakers in to the headphone jack of your Mac. This should do what you want!

I'm guessing it's a cube or something? Either way, I'm sure it has a line out or headphone jack, right?

You can get a cable to plug in from there to your computer's line in or microphone jack (line in is better if you have it), and record with decent quality. It won't be the best and it's not a very good way to record, but it's better than nothing.

if the line out on your amp is quarter inch, you could either go quarter inch male to 3.5mm adapter female -> 3.5mm cable -> line in or quarter inch cable -> quarter inch female to 3.5mm male adapter -> line in. It just depends on what you have I guess.

If your line out jack is 3.5mm then all you need's a 3.5mm cable.

Be warned though! If you turn your amp up too loud you can damage both of the components. Start with no volume, and slowly raise it till it's audible. Don't worry about it being too low, that can be adjusted later when editing the clip. This is absolutely not the best way to record, but if you're broke like me, then yeah. I used to do this for a while, and it worked okay. The better more official way to do it is with a USB interface, which you can get for around $30. I don't have enough experience with any one to recommend one though. but if you must:

http://www.amazon.com/inch-Stereo-Female-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B001TKABX6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1330916050&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-inch-3-5mm-Female-Adapter/dp/B000V1R92U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330916008&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-AUD-1100-06-6-Feet-Stereo/dp/B000SE6IV8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1330915986&sr=8-2

everything you need for <$5!

Oh, and for the actual recording, you can use a free program like audacity.

Thanks for the info. Sounds like I need to decide on the type of mic I want.

​

I'm assuming I could theoretically purchase an extender if I went with a desktop mic? Would this work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73MUQ?ref_=ams_ad_dp_ttl

​

I'm trying to make sure I have everything covered.

Thanks for the help man!

Yes this is possible, you will need a headphone/microphone & headphone splitter as well as an aux cord. Here are links to both. I'm sure this can be done with a different splitter, but this is what I use and it works great! If you are looking for a cheaper one, make sure it is headphone/microphone & headphone splitter, because regular ones will not do the job.

http://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW010-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T637G8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK?ie=UTF8&keywords=aux%20cord&qid=1465280604&ref_=sr_1_4&s=electronics&sr=1-4

If you can, get a pair of headphones and a separate microphone. They will blow any "premium gaming headset" out of the water. Gaming headsets are typically closed-back headsets, which limits your sound stage. You'll want a piar of open-back headphones. They also have to cram a lot more inside the headphones which typically results in something being of lower quality.

It seems you're on Xbox one, so you'll need one of the controllers with a 3.5mm headphone jack.

If you're on PS4, you can use the same items I have listed, and if you're on PC you don't need the splitter.

One of the best pair of headphones you can get is this one. The Audio Technica ATH M50x.

Then get an antilion modmic. It attaches right to your headphones with no hassle.

Then get this thing so you can use the headphones and microphone on your xbox one controller. (Yes, it works on Xbox One.)


All you have to do is plug your headphones and microphone into the splitter, and your splitter into your xbox one controller. Way better than a gaming headset, and way cheaper too.

You can even get better earpads for better comfort, if you want.

I recommend getting a dedicated 1/8" Stereo to 1/4" Mono or dual 1/4" stereo cable. If you're running from the stereo main 1/8" out on the Boutique to a single 1/4" mono in its good to convert from stereo to mono (more details: http://sound.stackexchange.com/questions/25577/stereo-and-mono-cables-and-jacks-what-happens-when-you-cross-them ). And, I was using an adapter for a while myself, on the end of a normal instrument cable, so there was this big relatively heavy thing hanging off a single 1/8" jack (on a $400 box) that I began to get paranoid about breaking. Get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-105-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3F with its nicely flexible cable and small, light 1/8" jack and never worry about that again.

I think I figured out your problem. If you have a Mid 2010 iMac, then you should have a Mini Display port in the back to hook up an external display. You're also probably using something like this from your computer to your HDMI cable. If so, then the audio will not work. The reason is because the Mini Display Port supports video only and has no way of sending audio through an HDMI cable. The Thunderbolt Port, which was introduced in the Mid 2011 iMacs, on the other hand supports both audio and video and can send them both through an HDMI cable. So for your situation, you need to hook up a separate audio line from your iMacs headphone jack to the TV with a 3.5mm to RCA cable. But since you said you're hooking it up to a Toshiba, their audio in ports are usually a 3.5mm audio jack (headphone jack) that says "PC/HDMI 1 IN (AUDIO)" above/on the side of it. That audio line input will only work with whatever PC port and HDMI port it's joined with. If you have a headphone jack instead of an RCA audio port on the back of your TV, then you'll and a 3.5mm to 3.5mm auxiliary cable like this. You can also get something like the Kanex iAdapt 51 Mini DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter that will take the video out (Mini Display Port) and Audio Out (headphone port) and merge them together so you only have one wire going to your TV. Hope that solved your problem. :)

Edit: I was doing some more research on the matter and found this. So according to Apple, some Mini Display Ports support both audio and video output but it all depend on the a) model mac you are using and b) if you have the right connection between your Mac and TV (I believe this is were "Kyeetza" got his answer from). So follow the links and see which model iMac you have if you're not certain and yeah. Hope it helps.

The very worthwhile new improved X version is the Audio-Technica AT-LP60XBT $149. However you can save $49 for the overpriced Bluetooth module by getting the Audio-Technica AT-LP60X $99 and a 3.5 mm Male to Male Stereo Audio Aux Cable, 4 Feet $5 to connect to the Aux input on your Bluetooth speaker.

Or a better turntable, Teac TN-300SE, $129 with coupon code SPIN and a 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 4 Fee $6 to connect to the Aux input on your Bluetooth speaker.

I just got this and this and run the phone without turning it's screen off. Gets the job done perfectly, also got a free GPS app that works great (Waze).

That cable looks pretty plasticy. I had a pretty bulky and plasticy cable like that hooked up the SHP9500 and it was uncomfortable when hitting my shoulder. It also passed a bunch of vibrations to the headphones which wasn't pleasant.

Most will recommend VMODA: https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-Extended-Audio-Cable-Black/dp/B00MYTR7KQ/

I have the aux cord from ANKER and it's pretty decent. Should come in a longer length as well: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK/

I'll also point you to the aux cord from status audio: https://www.amazon.com/Status-Audio-Headphone-Universal-one-button/dp/B01F2NT3TS/

Like

4x amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC

And 4x amazon.com/dp/B00NMUE2P4

And 1x amazon.com/dp/B002HPNDDW should be good

And 4x parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651

And 1x amazon.com/dp/B00AF88BRG

I think that would sound pretty great, PC and all

There are MULTIPLE ways to resolve this:

1. Splitters. Send your computer output into a reverse splitter. This means your computer audio will go out (so you can hear donations, music, etc). It also means your game audio will still go into your headphones by plugging in a 3.5mm cable into the other part of the reverse splitter). However, with this solution you'll likely need a 2nd microphone (which often is better anyways because headphone microphones generally are terrible), or you'll need to do another type of splitter that allows for 2.5mm > 3.5mm and it just turns into a mess.
   
2. A lot of headphones have a mixamp that will let you do exactly what you're looking to do without all of the hassle. I still recommend a 2nd microphone (or something like a modmic with a splitter), to get the best sounding stream.

My tips:

Things to bring

• Bring a USB Cigarette car charger - Link
  
• Cell phone dash holder - Link
  
• Headphone cable - Link
  (Listen to your jams while driving)
  
• Some snacks (stop at Trader Joe's or similar store)
  
• Bottle water
  
• Map of the region (Yes we have internet.. but not everywhere)
  
• Plastic bags as you acquire them (at the grocery store, gas station, etc.. work great for garbage)
  
  
  Tips for Rental Cars
  
  
• Don't get the insurance
  
• Don't get the insurance
  
• Get there 20-30 minutes early and be nice to the guy/gal. It's going to be a busy time for them and they will have a lot of angry people. Usually if you're nice they will upgrade you to a large vehicle because they have too many reservations and not enough stock on lot.
  
• Don't rent from the airport, always go to a lot off site.
  
• Be sure to do the walk around, it's as much for you as them.
  
• Do not pre-pay gas. Just fill it up to where it was before dropping it off. I always keep an eye out for the closest gas station before I leave.
  
• Double check you got all your stuff. Even if you have to make a list. I've found all sorts of stuff in cars that even the detailers missed.
  
  
  I travel/road trip quite a bit; If you've got any other questions, please let me know.
  

Any 3.5mm male trs to 3.5mm male trs cable will work. There's a ton of them available. Here's an example.

You can get them in a variety of lengths, a variety for materials like just straight rubber or cloth braided, and you can get them with either a straight plug or a 90° jack at one end. So keep in mind any of those particular features you might want.

If you want one with an inline volume control, it's still a t-r-s jack at both ends. If you want one that has an inline microphone, it'll have a t-r-r-s jack at one end like this one - that would be for use with something like a single-jack laptop or phone.

I know in the post you submitted in the other subreddit that someone mentioned you should look for something with a slim barrel. That's not really something you need to worry about with the MSR7. For example, the 3.5mm cable I use for all my headphones that have the 3.5mm jack at the cup is this one which, if you notice, has a pretty fat barrel at the jack. It's works just fine on my MSR7 's.

>Hello, I've not been into hi-fi audio before but since I got hold of some decent pair of headphones I'm interested in beefing them up.

Is volume insufficient from your onboard audio?

>I've heard good things about the Atoms Amp but I'm not sure how to hook it up to my PC, and from what I can tell it does not come with any cables?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019D048XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M0kVCbKQ4CHN6

>My motherboard, Strix Z370-E I heard has decent enough onboard sound so I don't need an external dac but it apparently also has an onboard amp that I don't want running through. Would the Atoms bypass it or do I need to disable it somehow?

You don't need to disable your motherboard's op-amp. You'd need a dedicated DAC if you wanted to bypass your onboard audio completely.

Welcome! And, just in case, one thing you need to consider when shopping for a laptop to be used with skype/discord, or whatever, is what kind of headset or headphone/microphone setup you plan to use.

Quite a few modern laptops have a single combination 3.5mm audio/mic input. If this is the case (like with the higher-end ThinkPads), you may need an adapter/splitter like this to use a standard analog headset that has separate audio/mic cords.

Some laptops still have separate audio/mic jacks. Standard headsets or a headphone/microphone setup with separate audio & mic cords will work fine.

If you use a USB headset you don't have to worry about any of this, as they'll work as long as you have a free USB port.

Personally, I use a pretty cheap (but decent!) headset here that has separate audio/mic cords. My smaller X201 laptop has separate jacks, but when I use the headset with the combo jack on the T430S laptop I just use a splitter.

Just FYI!

I'm pretty sure you will need a splitter similar to this one.

If it were me, I would try plugging them into the headphone port and trying it, but I'm pretty sure you would not be able to use your mic that way. The audio out should work fine though.

That's a headphone splitter, my friend. Not at all what you want to use for speaker hookups. This boils down to the difference between balanced and unbalanced cables. Unbalanced cables have two conductors; one carries the signal, the other is the ground/shield. A balanced cable has three conductors; one carries the signal, another carries a polarity-flipped but otherwise identical version of that signal, and the last pin is the ground/shield.

Your speakers are looking for a balanced input on the TRS cable, and what it's receiving is two unbalanced signals (i.e. due to the headphone splitter, each speaker is receiving the left side signal on one conductor and the right side signal on the other). That means that each speaker is taking both sides of the signal, flipping the polarity of the right channel, adding them both together, and then amplifying the results. Yikes. That results in no stereo image, no frequency content below ~200Hz, a crazy messy top end, and all of your center channel information disappearing (because it's the same in both channels, therefore the polarity flip cancels it all out).

In order to solve this conundrum, you need to acquire a cable that splits the 3.5mm stereo jack into a separate left and right plug. Such a thing can be found here. Note that each side is an unbalanced cable, but that's okay; your speakers can handle that just fine, it just won't be quite as loud as a balanced setup (6dB quieter, to be precise). I ran my monitors off of a cable like that for a long time before I got a real interface.

Good luck! Let me know if you have any other questions. Electrical issues are a funny business.

Does your laptop or computer have a 3.55mm speaker or microphone input? If so, you could pick up one of these and connect your bass directly to the computer. Then, you can use a program like Audacity to record your playing and play it back with ease. Your mileage will vary, but for practice it's simple and cost effective solution.

Another option even is getting two connectors like this and a regular rca to 3.5mm cable and you should end up with the same thing functionally, I'd personally go with this option.

Oh btw Monoprice.com is great for getting stuff like this, cheap and good quality.

On the back of your Xbox, there should be a a plug where you can plug in standard headphones (a 3.5 mm audio jack). Get an audio cable with two male 3.5 mm ends like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522676285&sr=8-3&keywords=male+to+male+audio+cable

Plug that cable into the back of your Xbox and the other into the audio "line in" plug in the back of your computer. Usually you will see three audio plug on the back of your computer for a plug this size. One plug for a mic, one for headphones and one for "line in". Plug it into the line in.

Now right click on the speaker icon on your task tray and select the "Recording Devices" option in the popup. In the resulting window, make sure that the "Recording" tab is selected. Then double click on the "Line In" option in the list. This will open another window. Choose Listen tab, check Listen to this device. Choose playback through Default playback device and click Apply button. You may have to then play with the audio levels in Windows but it should now work.

Good luck.

Hi u/InfamousSea - I dug my old Audio Technica Pro 88 receiver (pictured here) out of the closet and saw that it has a mono output, not a TRS stereo. Your problem might be that your Rode SC4 TRS to TRRS adapter is only sending a single channel to the phone.

I used this Cables2Go mono to stereo adapter when I needed to plug the Pro 88 into a TRS stereo input and it worked fine.

If that doesn't solve the problem, you probably need a preamp. I recommend a Saramonic SmartRig II preamp for iPhones plus a 3.5mm mono to 1/4" mono adapter so you can plug your wireless receiver into it.

Hope this helpful and good luck!

yeah, that's about the only thing I'm not a fan of. I have a pair of Audio Technica M50s and the plug-in jack is too wide to fit in the headphone jack, but I don't really use those with my phone too often anyway.

The thing that did cause an issue was trying to use the AUX jack in my car, to listen to my music. I owned 3 male-to-male audio cables and all of them had really wide jacks just like the headphones. I had to buy a specific cable to fit the case properly.

This is the cable I bought from Amazon and it fits perfectly. In case anyone else has a similar problem.

While I agree that an XLR microphone is a better all-around choice to a USB one unless you need a direct connection to your computer, since you've already got the microphones, I would also point out that the mic you're using has a headphone port. It may be worth getting a mixer (most XLR mixers will also support 1/4" jacks, so if you upgrade to an XLR mic in the future you won't need a new mixer) and pick up something like this to patch it through.

You could try if you have a straight male-male 1/8" cable lying around to record it through your computer's line-in or microphone jack to see if the quality is still good first.

I'm looking for a Bluetooth sound system. I've been looking at different soundbars and those look like the best option for me, maybe one with a subwoofer. I'd primarily use it for my 32" TV to play my PS4 and stream music through my phone, iPod, and Chromecast.

Budget, I'd like to keep it cheap. Probably like $125 is my max, but cheaper would be better.

I was looking at this Vizio, refurbished. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the quick reply...Yeah that's a good idea I just need the basics right now nothing fancy. I never thought about adding more stuff to it later on but I definitely want to do that once I get more $ coming in.

Would getting a sound bar be similar to what you are saying?

Maybe something like this? It says it comes with a subwoofer.


link

So for those of you who wanted a parts list and a cost breakdown here it is...some of these costs might be a little rough but I'll get close.

• Parts Express Overnight Sensations Kit---$138.00
  
• Sonic Barrier Sound Dampening Foam---$13.25
  
• SMSL Q5 Amp---$129.99
  
• C8 Power Inlet---$10.16
  
• C7 Power Cord---$4.61
  
• 3.5 mm Cable---$4.99
  
• USB Cable---$8.99 (for 2)
  
• RCA Cables-need two---$9.18
  
• Digital Audio Cable---$1.69
  
• M3 by 30 mm Bolts---$9.65
  
• #6 Wood Screws---$8.37
  
• High Density Foam Tape---$5.60
  
• 24 AWG Red Wire---$9.55
  
• M6 by 40 mm Hex Bolts---$4.66
  
• Threaded Inserts---$4.55
  
• RiteAV Custom Wallplate---$26.33
  
• 1/4 inch Plywood---$5.77
  
  I don't think I missed anything, so that should be about it. I already had the glue, stain, Deft and tools to complete the project which was pretty great. Not to mention free wood so for any of your projects factor those things in. For those of you asking about the crossovers and those component they are included in the Parts Express kit along with detailed instructions. The total came to $395.34 but I had some materials left over for use on future projects so I would actually say its a little less. Additionally, I found the SMSL Q5 on sale from Parts Express so it came out to only $84.00 so that cut costs a lot I just couldn't find a link with that price, this build happened about a month ago.

Okay. So if I understand correctly your cable only has one 1/4" connector, right? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36 ?

If so, the issue is that you're trying to connect your PC's stereo output (meaning it has two channels, left and right) into a balanced input (a more advanced for of a mono one channel input. Look up balanced signal if you want to learn more). The mixer input is not designed to handle a stereo signal, so it won't process it correctly.

Ideally, you should use a cable that has two 1/4" connectors (one for the left and one for the right) like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3C and plug them into 2 separate channels on your mixer.

It highly depends. If the laptop supports a 4 pole 3.5mm jack, which supports mic and headphones on one line like some phones, (the 3.5mm jack with 3 rings rather than two) then you can get adapters specifically for that such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_lpo_23_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DZFJAETDEWF87EPDPD5R

However, if the headphone jack only supports a 3 pole 3.5mm jack (standard for stereo headphones) then plugging in an adapter like this won't do a thing.

EDIT:
HOWEVER, a standard 3 pole to two 3 pole type of splitter WILL NOT WORK. Only thing that'll happen is you'll wind up blowing out the microphone's diaphragm as it tries to function as a speaker, which it's not designed to handle.

Nothing on that page would do what you really want.

The things that are labeled "stereo to mono" imply that they are intended to mix a stereo signal into a mono signal. Unless they have some internal resistors (like that home made cable -- which they certainly do not have) then they would simply short the left and right outputs together to connect them to the mono side. And as mentioned it's not really good to short outputs together in general. But even it were OK to short the outputs together it still wouldn't work because the mono side of those adapters will only connect to the tip of a plug. So you'd only get the mono mix in one side of your headphones.

Those "stereo to mono" are really meant to take a mono output and send it two both sides of a stereo input. For example, to send a mono source to both sides of a stereo recorder.

OK (just in case anyone gets any bright ideas), you could connect one of these to the headphone output. Then plug one of these into the first adaptor. Then plug the headphones into the second adapter. That would short (kind of mix) both sides of the output to both sides of the headphones. But don't do that! Because it does short the outputs together and they aren't meant to be shorted together that way. I only mentioned it in case someone saw some potential there and wanted to give ti a go.

This is just a knob with in and out

A headphone DAC / amp combo would have more features and act like an external soundcard. The Micca OriGen+ or the Schiit Fulla 2 are great options if you want something really nice.

Edit: added links

I use

• a converter
  
  
• an hdmi to hdmi cable (one end into the tv and one end into the converter)
  
  
• and a 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack audio cable (one end to the tv, one end to the macbook)
  
  Works like a charm when I change the tv input to hdmi.
  
  edit:
  Thanks to nalc, looks like OP could use:
  
  
• Mini DVI to HDMI adaptor
  
  
• an hdmi to hdmi cable (one end into the tv and one end into the converter)
  
  
• and a 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack audio cable (one end to the tv, one end to the macbook)
  
  
  Depending on the devices used, the audio may or may not be transferred through HDMI. With my Macbook and tv, I need to hook up the audio cable separately (there is a jack next to the hdmi slot on my tv).
  

I assume you are talking about a very common 2xRCA-Male to a Stereo 3.5mm jack.

While the cable you suggest will work, perhaps a bit better cable would be in order. Though that is purely up to you and your budget.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC%C2%AE-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468636951&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468636951&sr=1-8&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm+

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468636951&sr=1-10&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

Make sure the cable you buy is long enough. Typically available in unit of meter or feet. 6ft or two meters are very common. In my case, a 2 meter cable between my computer and a Stereo amp came up just a bit short, so I had to add some extension, though I had the extension laying around.

This is really a very common cable, and you can get similar at Radio Shack, Warmart, Best Buy, Home Depot, and Menards, or similar.

Yes, just a mini amp - pick up this - (its a clone of the original Tripath Lepai that's not made anymore, and has a great power supply)

• https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-ORIGINAL-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT
  
  and use the 3.5mm headphone output from your TV to either the RCA inputs or the 3.5mm input.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/
  
  or
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/
  
  BOOM, you're done. It will drive those Polks just fine! I bought one just for fun and had it hooked up to both sets of my Polk floorstanding monitor 70's and monitor 60s and it had no problem!
  
  

Items used:

Battery SAE Connector $6
SEA connection that has 4 plugs. If I need to hook up a battery charger or air compressor it's nice.

USB Power $10 I used one for the phone itself and one for the hub, however you only need one. I just didnt not want the amplifier taking power away from charging the phone. Redundancy is nice too. Extra USB ports for whatever.

USB Hub $7 For all the gadgets.

USB Phone Power Cable $5 This is the real weak point in the setup. I've gone through a lot of these. monoprice.com is good for really cheap cords.

[Phone Audio output(between phone and amplifier)] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9KUF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
$7 Quality cord here. Purchased for the right angle plug.

[Amplifier]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HJWWW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $28
Amplifier output connection: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $30 After not being able to hear very well with no amplifier, this greatly improved the experience.

Helmet coil cord $5 With this cord you never know the cord is there until you get off the bike and it will break away.

Helmet speakers: $10 I found a great deal on ebay for some "hoodie" speakers and I epoxied them in the helmet. You could always use this setup with earbuds too, but I was never fond of getting them pulled out while riding.

Phone mount $35 I would trust it will an $800 phone.

Total Cost w/ Phone Mount: $ 115

Well, you should need a male mono 1/4" to female stereo 1/8" jack adapter to plug into the guitar.

Then you need a male to male 1/8" stereo patch cable to go from that to the computer's 'line in' or single audio jack.

OR, just something like this cable here that's the same thing all in one piece.

Then you need to configure your MacBook's audio port to be an input instead of an output as described here.(if you don't have a dedicated 'line in' jack)

After all that, you should be able to select your macbook's input jack in Logic, and pluck away.

This is a direct line in. Your guitar should be powered. Make sure ALL your guitar's/interface's volume/gain knobs/sliders are set to their minimum before jacking in and playing. The best case scenario if you don't is major distortion in your signal. The worst case is that you could blow out your macbook's audio device. I don't know how the macbooks handle overload. It shouldn't be a problem, but just to be safe, always set your guitar's levels to min first then bring them up during your first tests; play normally.

You may not have to manually change your macbook's audio jack. It is auto-sensing. I included the step just in case. If your macbook only has one audio jack, obviously, you won't be able to listen through external speakers or headphones while your guitar's lined in. It'll have to be through the internal speakers. This iMic is a cheap workaround for only having one audio jack. Google for more 'audio interface' devices.

In a nutshell: plug your guitar into the computer directly, set the software to use that jack, and go!

I've had great luck with my Mediabridge cable, purchased from Amazon 2-3 years ago. It lives in my car, gets constantly pinched by the lid to my center console, and has never once crapped out. It's got pretty sturdy construction and I honestly don't know how you could destroy this.

Yeah, I got a stereo to mono adapter to effectively merge the two channels into one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I got this to hook up to my xbox: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plug that into the xbox via optical (since primary audio went through HDMI and I couldn't easily split that), then the adapter above to merge channels into mono and then into the buttkicker. Works great for consoles.

Okay... so I just need to repeat these are probably not the best options... #1 is probably the worst option and may or may not work... and I can't guarantee you will get the best sound quality out of either but here ya go:

(1) If you only have a 1/4 or 1/8 out, you can run a cable with two male connectors from the stereo to your computer's mic input. They would either be a 1/4 to 1/8 cable or a 1/8 to 1/8 cable.

(2) For RCA output, you can a RCA to 1/8 cable into the computer mic input or run a regular RCA cord with this RCA to 1/8 adapter.

None of this is ideal, but for under $10 it might be worth giving it a try and messing around with it if you have the time and patience. Hope this helps. If none of this works... sorry...

Depends on what you want.

This is for a PC right? So you're listening close up. That's a factor because the JBL's are designed for that.

JBL's with a $100 Dayton sub will sound great, be balanced, and provide more bass than any pair of bookshelf sized speakers on their own.

I'm guessing they mean because the JBL's are powered (they have amplifiers inside of them) then if you want to upgrade you just have to sell them and buy a new system. If you get an amplifier and speakers then you can upgrade the speakers or the amplifier separately. I'd add that the JBL's probably have more resale than Elac's or something like that if you consider upgrading a factor.


Don't worry about the XLR inputs if you don't need them - use these

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=stereo+breakout+cable&qid=1563309739&s=gateway&sr=8-3

They will plug in the little green audio output you can use for headphones.

For the subwoofer - does your PC have an orange 3.5mm audio output? If so hook that up to the subwoofer using these kinds of cables:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3.5+to+rca&qid=1563309802&s=gateway&sr=8-5

The brands I'm linking don't matter, just the type of cable they are.

What speakers are you using? You can use the Micca Origen G2 for headphones and powered speakers, but if you are using passive speakers, you will need a separate amp for that.

To connect powered speakers that already have RCA cables, you just need a dual female rca to single 3.5mm male cable adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Gold-Plated-Copper-Shell-Heavy-Duty-Adapter-Extension/dp/B077DNG83N/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1537383619&sr=8-14&keywords=dual%2Bfemale%2Brca%2Bto%2B3.5mm&th=1

or just a dual male rca to male 3.5mm like this to go directly from your speakers to the DAC/Amp:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537383727&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=dual+male+rca+to+3.5mm&psc=1

​

So basically, you want audio from PS4 and PC? If your headset is like mine, buy a Y-splitter.

From there, use an external amplifier/soundcard like the Astro Mixamp Pro.
You connect the optical cable to the back of the PS4 for game audio, then using the Y-splitter connect your headset into the mixamp, then use a 3.5mm to 3.5mm stereo cable and plug that into MP3 port of the amp and your audio port on the PC. NOTE - Whichever source you plug the USB to power the Mixamp, will be where your mic is assigned to.

TLDR; Headset and Y-splitter go into an amp, optical cord goes into PS4 for audio, USB goes into PS4 for microphone, 3.5-3.5 stereo cable goes into mixamp and audio port for PC/laptop. This is my current set-up and it works beautifully.

A simple way, a solution I am using is connecting the piano headphone audio output to your computer audio input with a male to male audio aux cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ and then set up audio playback in your sound settings https://imgur.com/a/T0Qxbfo.

Now you are able to listen to the piano and computer sound with your default pc audio output. If you set the audio input you used for your piano in discord, your friends can listen to the piano and you can hear their reactions. But because the piano is a different audio input you can't talk to them and you have to switch your audio input back to your mic to talk to them again.

If you get a lot of static noise while the piano is connected it very likely that a ground loop noise isolator will help. (I use a ground loop isolator and I have a roland fp 10. I still get static noise only when the piano is turned off because the power cable is still plugged in. I usually mute the sound in the volume mixer on my pc)

I used this setup to play the audio from my nintendo switch through the pc and listen to both my pc sound(mainly discord while playing smash) and switch sound on my headphones.

To go even further you can install a virtual audio cable https://www.vb-audio.com/Cable/ and route your mic and piano audio through the same audio line and playback this audio source to listen to the piano through your default audio output. A big drawback I noticed is that the music is very delayed this way and you hear your voice delayed which is messing with your brain a lot.

I hope that helped. I'm sure there are other solutions with audio interfaces, audio mixers or with midi. This is just a cheap solution which works for me.

I’ve been working on my display and wiring setup for a while now and I’m finally happy with it so I thought I would share it with r/mini. Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated. This is one of my first posts so if I messed up, that’s why.

Links:

Ultragauge: http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/

Aluminum GPS Mount: http://www.cravenspeed.com/mini-gps-mounting-kits/

AUX in: http://www.minicarparts.net/Instructions/M3367_Instructions.cfm

Phone/ipod holder: http://amzn.com/B009GMKT0Y

Charging cable: http://amzn.com/B000EFVGV8

gold plated AUX cable: http://amzn.com/B004LTEUDO

Antenna: http://www.cravenspeed.com/products/The-Stubby-Antenna.html

Inverter: http://amzn.com/B004MDXS0U

Lights: I don’t remember exactly, but if someone want the link then I can look more. They were like $25 total.

This sounds a bit ridiculous. Don’t spoil your kid this way (I know you’re not breaking the bank, I mean it more like caving in to his every demand.)

First, what does a condenser mic look like?

Exactly. They come in all shapes and sizes.

Don’t buy anything for appearance, prioritize quality.

Secondly, the streamers he wants to emulate are, in a lot of cases, running pretty sophisticated setups with a lot of unseen equipment off camera.

If your kid is going to stream via the built in functionality on an Xbox, then compatibility comes to the fore, since USB mics need a bunch of extra stuff to work.

So where does that leave use...

Assuming they’re streaming via Xbox without a computer/capture card involved, then the first thing you need is a TRRS mic/headphone splitter cable like this.

That plugs right into an Xbox controller, and allows you to connect standard stereo headphones and a standard mic with a ⅛” plug at the same time.

It really opens up compatibility options.

The problem you’ll run into is that quality mics are expensive, and most of them require some sort of power source that complicates things.

A decent lapel mic (which won’t meet his appearance standards) will cost around $20.

A Blue Yeti (one of the most popular and versatile mics for Youtubers/streamers/podcasters) costs $100 by itself.

$300 mics are not uncommon.

So, between your budget and his desires, this may not work.

I can’t tell you enough how much serious research you should do before buying anything though.

Like the others said, a splitter or usb adapter would work. I'd recommend a splitter like this one over a usb adapter, because the sound card on your motherboard is probably better than the one in the usb adapter. Plus it's a bit cheaper. Unless you don't have a mic input on your motherboard, or if it's not convenient or something.

I have the same Turtle Beach, Justin, so let me see if I can help you out. The 50x contains a 4 channel plug, so that is ground, left, right, and mic. With some laptops, they include a 4 channel port, like the kind found in most phones. If your laptop has one of these you probably just need to change your input settings on your control panel.

If your laptop doesn't have one of these ports, you can tell because the mic/headphone ports will be separated like this. If that is the case, you can get a splitter so the channels can be accessed separately, something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469219555&sr=8-3&keywords=mic+headphone+splitter) will work.

I got this one, its pretty average but sounds good, also you can hookup sound thru either HDMI or Optical audio, the Xbox supports both, most sound bars use optical audio.

http://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-S3821w-C0-38-inch-Wireless-Subwoofer/dp/B00CO07C5U/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417374884&sr=1-6&keywords=sound+bar

You might be looking for this.
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_13
Your headphone goes into the female end, and you've got one mail for the piano and another for your computer. Of course you'll probably need some extensions to reach each of the devices, but you can figure that out. Good luck!

>Question is, how do I hook the Blue Yeti up to the One S (more specifically, via the controller)? There's a lot of videos of how to do so through the original One, but that controller is different from the S' controller.

I'm not sure what videos your watching but the only difference would be the need for the headset adapter on the older controllers. That's not needed on those controllers with the built in port. They are identical otherwise.

>There's a way to connect them so that I can both listen to in-game audio via headphones and also speak at the same time, right? If so, how? Any extra cables I might need?

Yes, you'll need a mic/headset splitter to ensure that the rings are mapped correctly to what's expected in the controller. For example, this one which claims to work with the console -

https://www.amazon.com/ENVEL-Convertors-Smartphone-Microphone-Simultaneously/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=pd_day0_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M0T6PSF&pd_rd_r=DQCJC77XDRCE62CWJM1Z&pd_rd_w=cg4lW&pd_rd_wg=A5xwE&psc=1&refRID=DQCJC77XDRCE62CWJM1Z

Alright, so first you need to confirm that your subwoofer is capable of powering speakers. It has a cord that plugs into the wall right?

Next, you'll need a way to get the signal from your phone to the subwoofer. To be flexible, you should buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Speaker-Female-Adapter/product-reviews/B00G352P2C/

The wires will plug into your subwoofer on the "input" connectors. It looks like the outer 2 of the 4 wires plug into the black tabs, and the inner two wires plug into the red tabs.

Then, you need this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/

Obviously one side plugs into your smartphone, and the two round connectors plug into the first product.

Finally, you need to hook up two of your speakers to the subwoofer using the speaker wire. Each speaker connects to the red and black tab pair on either side of the "Output" text.

Let us know when you have it all set up and playing music!

Not sure if something like this is what you meant, but for 8 bucks you could get a 6 foot extender from zeskit. Good quality and feel. I have one that I use with my superlux HD-668B's and I really like it.
Edit: the link didn't show up, here it is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1R7F2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q2F1xbBJAEHYX

You can find the male-to-male audio cable at any electronics place - Radio Shack, Fry's Electronics, or tons of places online... Amazon.com for instance. Here's one.

The radio should have a setting for "AUX" or auxiliary input. Use that setting. You will need to experiment with the volume of the phone's music player app and the volume of the speaker system to find the best setting for playing the music clearly at the level of volume you want.

I love it. I personally have the black pair. Be prepared for that cable to break though. Here is a link to a good one just in case. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's what you're looking for on the U.S. Amazon web site. It's available in 3, 6, 10 & 15-foot lengths.

Hopefully, you can use the information on this page to find it on another country's Amazon site.

This appears to be the same product on the UK site.

This appears to be the same product on the French site.

This appears to be the same product on the German site.

OK, I'm done.

Thanks for the help!

Anything like this or this would work then, I assume?

Been looking into the same stuff since mine isn't as clear when using USB. Anyways, you can get a splitter cable and an extension cable. From what I read, you'll need 2 extensions, 1 for mic and 1 for headphones. I got one that came with my old Steelseries headset, but I couldn't find any similar ones.

Good luck, let me know how it went!

You need something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OUJWAb2EM4HFD
To be the long term solution. In a pinch if you have two headphone sets you can use and have one be your mic and the other be your dedicated headphones that should work as well.

I have a Vizio 42" sound bar with a subwoofer. Amazing sound quality when hooked up through optical through my TV so all of my consoles sound superb.


http://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-S3821w-C0-38-inch-Wireless-Subwoofer/dp/B00CO07C5U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405598259&sr=8-2&keywords=vizio+sound+bar

Plugging in the black jack will only work as headphones, not microphone. This is more or less what you're looking for. I would heavily recommend reading reviews, because I've purchased some that weren't very durable. If I can find my spare set from some Audio Technica headphones I bought a while back, I can let you know and send them for free. :)

yes im doing this on my Turnigy 9x tx: https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3kaul2/anyone_know_of_a_us_shop_that_sells_the_rc_usb/

All you need is a headphone cable plugged into your 9x(http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones-Stereos/dp/B00R124LAK), and then into the mic/line-in port on your computer. And then some fancy, free software that converts that into a controller that simulators can use!

This is actually very similar to the setup I currently have, and you have 2 options here to get the console audio into OBS (assuming that's what you use).

1. Just take the audio from the HDMI cable through your Live Gamer HD, it will appear in the mixer when you add the Live Gamer HD as a source.
   
   
2. This is what I'm currently doing. If you want to explicitly control the console audio through the mixer, I use a 3.5mm to dual mono 6.35mm cable (like this) that goes from your monitor/TV headphones out port to one of your mixer's line inputs.
   
   Hope that helps! If you have any other questions just reply to this comment and I'll try help out.

What does the adapter look like? I'm not sure what civilian plane jacks mean - do you mean the ones you plug into on regular flights for the in-seat entertainment?

If you can get another adapter to a stereo 1/4" plug, at $25 this would be in your price range with change:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultra-Compact-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482162286&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+amplifier

The stereo 1/4" plug would look like this (the one on top, the smaller one on the bottom is your regular headphone plug for scale): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36

I guess it's technically a converter and not a splitter.

It changes the audio from digital (from the console) to analog (for the vest).

EDIT: You may need one. It doesn't need to be that one. Any digital to analog audio converter should work. I'm not 100% sure but I am trying to figure that out for you real quick.

https://www.amazon.com/EAKAI-Digital-Optical-Converter-Licensed/dp/B01H4XC3DC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1505351717&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio+converter&psc=1

There's one for under $15 on Amazon. There are plenty more available for the 15-20 range.

EDIT 2: It looks like you will need one as the vest says it needs a 3.5mm input. I don't see where it includes the required cable even if you buy the vest bundle from them. You'd need to pair this converter with an RCA to 3.5mm cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505351978&sr=1-1&keywords=male+rca+to+male+3.5mm

You'll probably need something like this: http://www.taiaudio.com/hosa-stereo-3-5mm-male-to-dual-mono-3-5mm-female-y-cable/

Then you can plug your headphones into the left channel, and get another cable to go from the right channel to the PA. I don't know what type of input your PA has, but if it has a 1/4" input, you would need something like this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D

Note that with the above setup, you will only get audio out of one side of your headphones. If you want it to come out of both sides, get one of these as well. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/888539-REG/CablesToGo_03174_3_5mm_Stereo_Female_to.html

Sorry for picking cables from 3 different sources. I just used Google and picked random links. But you can probably get everything from Amazon.

Solution 1: Keep 3DS volume low-ish. Discord's input sensitivity option helps with this.

Solution 2: Two pairs of headphones. I usually do this with earbuds plugged into whatever is running the voice chat, and then headphones over that plugged into the game.

Solution 3: An audio splitter, something like this. One plug goes in 3DS, one plug goes in PC/phone/whatever, both sources come through one set of headphones.

My guess. Mic plug is mono and input in a stereo plug.

You can try getting something like this http://www.amazon.com/Cables-40634-Stereo-Adapter-Metallic/dp/B000O7AW98

My guess with the other people being able to hear you in both sides is that most voice chat is mono.

Good luck!

Yeah, for aux, you'd plug something like this into your phone:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Stereo-Audio-Cable-Meters/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=1%2F8+inch+cable&qid=1568299407&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTjJLRDNRT0tTNDM5JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDM3NTQ5Uk1FQ0lXWDdVSElHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0OTE0NTVRUjgyN1VNTU9XNzcmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

I've been using bluetooth with the Samson speaker I linked above and it's been working nicely. But a backup aux cable wouldn't be a bad idea.

Thanks, didn't realize the sale joke =)

I currently have a FiiO E12 (portable amp), so I'm thinking about upgrading. I still need to sit down and really listen to them, which I'm so pumped about. I'm guessing I'll just need one of these to connect my Macbook to the Valhalla?

Here is how I can hear both my computer sound and Yamaha P71 sound through my headphones.

1. I bought this device on Amazon.
   
   
2. I bought this cable on Amazon.
   
   
3. For the cable, the stereo end goes into your keyboard, the two RCA plugs go into the device above.
   
   
4. The device above connects to your computer to a USB port.
   
   
5. Your headphones plug into the device. You can then hear your keyboard and computer at the same time, like if you wanted to play along to a backing track on YouTube or something.
   
   Hopefully that is helpful. Took me a while to figure out but it works really well.

Sure thing! Here's a pic for reference - you'll want a balanced TRS cable like the one on the left in the image. If you don't have any on hand, here's a link; get two.

Thanks for the suggestions! I ended up finding and buying this a few hours ago: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seems like it will do the same job, just with different input/output. Will it matter that this uses Stereo in and out? I am planning to run a Male to Male 3.5mm Stereo from my Center/Sub port on my Motherboard, I will plug that into the device IN. Then I will run the 3.5mm Stereo from the device out to the Subs Mono Port for LFE. This should work fine right? Will I still get the full signal?

Oh I'm so sorry, I forgot about that.

Get two of these splitters.

Now use the F2F and M2M couplers and wires to split the headphone mic and connect it to a splitter that connect to the phone.

There, you have a bunch of wires, but it's cheaper then the other solutions.

Better yet, use this splitter on the headphone end and the former splitter on the phone end.

Total cost for my setup is $27, could be less depending on how you mix and match the wires.

Now, solved.

The SMSL M3 is a good, clean DAC. Warmer & brighter sound than the FiiO E10k, and with RCA full line out instead of 3.5mm, it makes connecting to a speaker amp a breeze. I have it running entirely on USB input right now, volume at 50%, front 1/4" output running to the LyxPro 4-channel headphone amp you see there & back output going to the SA60. My only gripe with the M3 is that its front output is controlled by an analog volume knob, which means enough turning and you'll get channel imbalance eventually. To avoid this, I use the LyxPro 100% of the time when using headphones, as it's much cheaper to replace and doesn't degrade audio quality as far as I can tell (just dulls the highs a little, a personal plus).

The SMSL SA60 is great, powers my Micca MB42s (unpowered speakers, of course) very nicely. As far as I can tell, it's nice and clean, and has enough features for most users. Bear in mind this does not have a sub out, so in my opinion it's best for light setups like the one you see pictured (2.0 setups, as opposed to 2.1 setups).

Things I like about the SA60:

• Bass boost (called "volume compensation" or something, if I remember correctly) can be enabled by pressing in on the volume knob, turning even bass-light music into wubby goodness.
  
• The volume knob is digital, meaning no channel imbalance. It remembers your volume when the unit is powered off as well (by pressing the Input button once).
  
• The banana plugs I have in the back are secured very tightly, as well as the RCA cables I use. One less thing to worry about.
  
  Things I dislike about the SA60:
  
• When plugging it in, it may spark. Just Chinese manufacturing, I suppose. I plugged mine into its power strip first then the unit (sparked at the unit), and has been running fine since.
  
• The front input (switched by holding the Input button to the left of it) hugs cables tightly. You have to hold onto the unit and tug before the cable comes out. To circumvent this, I have that right-angle connector in there instead, which easily rotates in the port and cables can plug in/out of that easily. Adapter found here.
  
  My headphone cable of choice is this 1/4" to 3.5mm cable by Hosa (the 3ft version). No gold plating, but the quality is comparable to other high-end 3.5mm cables (I've compared it to this Anker cable, for example). I have a personal vendetta against adapters, which is why I use this cable and not a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable with adapter -- I like my sound to be as clean as I can get it, and adapters only run the risk of degrading that AND adding more points of failure should something go wrong. The only adapter I use is the one connecting my M3 to the LyxPro, as for some reason its TRS input switches left and right channels… but not the RCA input. The TRS cable I use is very high quality, and the RCA adapter has gold plating on either end, so hopefully it should be fine. I haven't noticed any quality loss when using it.

> I also have one and they're the best of the three boutiques imo.

i agree, though i'm close to getting a jp-08 to complement it.

> You will just need an adapter 1/4" female to 1/8" male, you can get these just about any electrical retailer nowadays.

it would be recommended to get a stereo to mono summing connector though, since the ju-06 (all boutiques) output stereo signals. like this.

I'll second the 58x. It's what I upgraded to after using the 598's since the XBOne came out.

You'll need a microphone and a splitter, I use a Modmic with a Mic/Phones breakout. I'd buy two of those and keep the spare handy, as mine seems to give up the ghost every 6-12 months. I don't know if other splitters are better, but the one I linked is the 3rd one I've tried and it's the best so far.

EDIT: This probably should've been its own comment but whatevs.

I really like it, the desk especially just need to tidy up those cables. Maybe buy some nice headphones like the ATH-M50x or HD598se? Or just one of these aux cable extensions (3.5 mm M/F extension cable) so you can tuck your earphones behind the desk

It really depends what you are connecting to. The newer GoPros ONLY record audio through the USB interface. That makes it pretty much impossible unless you buy an expensive cable. If no GoPro or an older GoPro you can use any cable like this...

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449143682&sr=8-1&keywords=3mm+to+1%2F4+inch+adapter

I also suggest getting a splitter if you don't want to take up a jack just for audio recording. It will allow you to plug in a headset along with it.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449143815&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+splitter

All in all yes its very cheap. The link Haykinson posted is a little overpriced although it contains everything you need.

To be more precise about what I've done:

From the audio out on the back of my PC, I plugged in the 1/8th inch inline ground loop isolator like what I linked above. Into the socket end of that I plugged in a 1/8 to 1/4 inch Y cable (or a splitter cable), then the ends of this Y cable plug straight into the JBL monitors. I have used something like this as the Y cable:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/

Does that make the set up a bit more clear?

> How is the setup on the surround ones?

For the 6ch (one channel is the subwooker) mode I'm using I just have 3.5mm to rca cables running from my computer to the receiver. For this particular mode it expects all of the set up to be done on the source device. So there's really nothing to do on the receiver except plug everything in to the right places.



IT SOUNDS AMAZING. totally overkill for a desktop set up lol.

Get yourself a nice little Amp like an SMSL SA-50, a 3.5mm aux cable to connect your TV's headphone out to the amp, and some 16 gauge speaker wire to connect amp to speakers. Bob's your uncle.

IF money is type, you can go with a cheaper amp, but the first one I mentioned is nicer unit that you can keep when you upgrade to a TV with an optical out.

Okay what you could do is use a headphone mic splitter like this (https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497882570&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+mic+splitter)
Then put the headphones into the amp and the mic into an extender that goes to the mic input on the PC if you're using USB for your amp or if you're using aux for your amp you can plug both your amp and mic into a headphone mic adapter like this (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497882834&sr=8-6&keywords=headphone+microphone+adapter) that will temporally separate the headphone and mic and plug only the headphones into the amp. I may be misinterpreting what you want to do but I hope this helps

I'd encourage you to at least consider other options before pulling the trigger on an LP120. At the price point ($365, assuming CAD, for a refurbished unit) is still too high for a used LP120.

If recording to your computer is something you'd like to do, you can always get something like this if your PC has a line-in/mic port (and if not you can pick up a cheap RCA to USB).

You're going to be paying more for that USB feature on a turntable when you could reasonably pull it off yourself with a cheap accessory or two.

The Starter set just includes volume control, cables, and isolation pads if you're putting the speakers right on your desk. It's definitely not necessary, just an easy all in one package.

Advantage of volume control is self explanatory, windows volume control isn't always perfect and having something physical to control volume is simply nicer. There's a lot of products that can do this, some with more features than others. I'll link a couple in different prices brackets.

• PAC - $10
  
• Volbox - $20
  
• Nobsound - $40
  
• JBL (Standalone) - $60
  
  Really up to you on how much you want to spend. Prices deltas are mostly due to build quality. If you have your eye on one let me know and I can tell you what cables you'll need, as each one will have a different set.

Some TVs have an audio line-in jack. So, if you want to just keep using VGA and your TV has one, all you need is a cable with both ends male 3.5mm jacks (example here.

Another alternative is to get external computer speakers. The sound should be much better than both your computer and your TV. Added bonus: you should also be able to hook them up to your TV and use them even without the computer.

I haven't used these myself, but I use a similar type (cheap computer speakers with a sub). Even cheap ones often sound much better than what is coming out of the TV.

Honestly though, if the Chromecast at $35 is too expensive, then you might be in the wrong game. (Good) Media equipment is not known to be cheap.

Those are active monitors so a receiver isnt necessary. They are powered already. If you go the monitor route the JBLs are much better speakers.

You'll need this cable at the least to start out
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0062QPERU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1453320297&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=stereo+trs&dpPl=1&dpID=41giV7MtWQL&ref=plSrch

OR you could find a receiver that has PRE-OUT outputs. Then essentially it's just a preamp. Id look for Denon AVR receivers or equivalent such as the 2105 since you can generally find them for pretty cheap. That way you bypass the noisy circuitry on your computer If there is audible noise AND be able to hook up a subwoofer through the receiver later.

Also be aware though. Monitors have a flat frequency response and that may sound "boring" to you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/

Isn't this what you want? pretty easy find on Amazon

Actually I never came across such a splitter, but that's just because I never look for cables or splitters, I solder all cables, adapters and splitters myself.

I guess I would start searching for something like "microphone headphone splitter".

EDIT: man I'm good at searching:
https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=br_lf_m_ceuun2nq7wpk4e9_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=wireless

Useful feedback, I'll mention it to the product people. PS, You can get a 3rd party one, it's just an audio-Y connector like this.

I think you'd need something like this, although I'm pretty sure it merges the Left and Right channels into Mono.

Edit: That actually probably isn't what you're looking for.

I beta-tested the /u/Biblos_Geek headphone and pretty much I found the same positive results listed by the other reviewers I just read here.

I will mention what I purchased to pair up the 2E1+Vibe to make it work. The headphone to me was free but I purchased these parts to make it work (costs may have changed on Amazon since my purchase).

Class D amp at $22

3.5mm audio splitter $5

3.5mm male to male cable $5

So my costs out of pocket were under $35 (give or take). Set up was fairly simple - no more difficult than wiring up a TV with external speakers. I am profoundly deaf in one ear and somewhat normal hearing in my other working ear. I would be willing to beta_test for this again if asked. So a positive experience over all.

The xDuoo XD-05 is a great portable and desktop amp for the price. It does have a fixed AUX out on the back which is meant for connecting to other amps.

Open this link and scroll to the bottom it will give you a connection diagram.

In order to use the AUX output with an SMSL speaker amp you will need to buy a AUX to RCA cable. Something like This and be using the USB input.

Then all you have to do to run your speakers is turn on and off your Speaker amp. The AUX out on the back is a fixed out so the volume knob on the front doesn't effect the output on the back.

So that speaker system has 3 inputs: 1 RCA (red/white) and 2 headphone jack. With your three devices, assuming your TV has no audio out, you can connect each device via RCA cable, headphone cable, or an adapter for one to the other, to those three inputs on the speaker system, for your cheapest possible solution. So a mix of these cables should do, hopefully? Let us know what you think:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=zg_bs_597566_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=zg_bs_597566_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V

https://www.amazon.com/MOCREO-Splitter-1-Mini-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B015J4OKZW/ref=zg_bs_597546_11?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=zg_bs_597546_19?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R

EDIT: and here's some extensions also, in case you grab any of the above and they're too short:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1481742465&sr=1-3&keywords=headphone+extension

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-6-Feet-Cblwhl-Extension-10R1-02206/dp/B000I1GZ0U/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1481742502&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+extension

EDIT 2: Can you send us the brand/model # of your TV so we can check out the inputs/outputs? Thanks!

You need something like this splitter to convert the Surface's 4-ring jack to a regular microphone jack.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF

I'll tell you this: you're much better off with a USB microphone.

Something like this will also give you a real mic jack: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8

Something like this

I use Volca Keys with Ableton and I use something similar. Works great!

I did some pretty extensive research when trying to find a way to transmit audio from 2 separate sources into a single bluetooth headset without interruption... Plenty of headsets connect to multiple sources simultaneously, but none will play audio from 2 sources at once. I ended up having to kludge together three things to make this happen:


BT Receiver/Transmitter
3.5mm Splitter
2x 3.5 mm cables


I'm not sure if this would help you... Maybe each of you carry a similar bluetooth receiver/transmitter connected to some standard 3.5mm headphones. Or, a combination of a couple of the receiver transmitters... But that's a lot to carry on a run...


Bottom line, I was kinda shocked to see the lack of multi-device implementations with bluetooth in 2018. I feel like there should be more of a variety for this type of thing..


Now, after reading your post, I did a quick search for a 'bluetooth splitter' and came across this. Looks like it only works with iphone...


BT Splitter


Hope any of this conglomerate of info helps you.

Most PCs have a 3.5mm microphone input like this, and it looks like the Nintendo Switch has a 3.5mm audio jack, so you should be able to connect the two with any 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable, like this.

You'll have to go into the audio mixer/sound settings on your computer (I think this is done by right clicking the volume icon in the bottom right of the task bar) and configure the audio input (coming from the Nintendo Switch) so it will be played back live.

I suggest using the volume buttons on the Switch to turn it's volume down very low at first, then slowly increasing it until it's loud enough. It shouldn't have to be turned up very much, because the audio input is meant for a low power microphone.

Then, you should be able to plug your headset's usb connector into your computer and have audio from both the computer and Nintendo Switch played through your headset.

Hey I know how to help with this! So you have to make sure the aux cord you have has three lines, one for left audio one for right audio and one for your mic.


If you look at the tip of the aux cord on the one you have there is probably only two black lines, meaning audio information from a mic wouldn't be able to travel through it.


You need an aux cord like this that has three black lines around the tip

Zeskit Braided Nylon 6 Feet Premium Audio Cable - 3.5mm, (Male to Female) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1R7F2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q16uCb6HPPQ8V

Are you sure the port is capable of stereo and mic audio transmission simultaneously? If your earbuds only have one trrs plug at the end, you will need a splitter to plug it into the separate stereo and mic ports. Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1520468195&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=trrs+splitter

I don't think any normal motherboards support that input but I did find a splitter that will allow it to work with any normal motherboard.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1466038715&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=headphone+cable+with+mic&dpPl=1&dpID=41cbMLBbOWL&ref=plSrch

I'm on mobile, hopefully that link works.

As kschange suggested. Something like this plugged into your phone and stereo aux port is probably best idea.

If your cable to your headphones isnt long enough, there are audio cable extenders you can purchase for a few bucks.

First result for audio cable extension on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-13787-Female-Extension/dp/B00007FGU7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415412878&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+cable+extender


So yeah, it even lets you buy longer cables as well for what appears to be a few cents more!


PS - This is assuming you are using a 3.5mm audio headset/headphones.

Edit: I see someone else already beat me to posting a link to a similar cable, oh well.

I do this to record my voice mails that I don't want to delete.

First, I use a regular auxiliary cord.

Then one end of that cord I plug into my phone, and the other I put THIS ADAPTER on it, and plug it into my Scarlett's microphone jack. Then I arm the track in Ableton and record like normal, as if I was recording anything else via my microphone.

Works like a charm.

The B112D's take 1/4" TRS inputs or XLR. The XLR connector on the speaker end is female, hence why you need a male cable (can't connect two female connectors!). I'm pretty certain by 2.5" you mean 1/4" (which is the same size as is used on guitar leads, and is larger in diameter than most headphone/earphone connectors). Unrelated but for future reference 3.5mm is often referred to as 1/8", which makes no sense since they're not the same diameter but shhh...

Of course, I imagine a 1/4" TRS to 3.5mm TRS cable should work just as well as the solution I posted, just connect the smaller, 3.5mm end to your laptop, and the larger, 1/4" end to 'Input 1' on the speakers. Then use the daisy-chaining technique I outlined in the parent post.

If you need stereo separation then that's a completely different matter, if it wasn't already complicated!

Yeah thats definitely a form of ground loop interference. Most likely coming from your GPU leaking voltage to the common ground.

Yes that is the mixer i was talking about. The only change i would make is to run the phono pre-amp into the "Line in 2/3". You'll need some RCA to 1/4' TS adapters. That way you have level control over it.

Also, you will need some balanced 1/4" TRS cables to go from the mixer to the speakers.

The S/PDIF port on your computer looks something like this:
http://www.electronicshub.org/types-of-computer-ports/#SPDIF_TOSLINK

It may also look like a 3.5 mm headphone jack. Check your computer manual to see which digital audio outputs are available on your computer.

The optical version of S/PDIF connects to the digital in on your xDuoo with a cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T8HWV62/

(The gold does nothing because it's an optical connection.)

The coaxial version of SPDIF connects using a 3.5 mm mono or stereo patch cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00R124LAK/

Choose a standard 1/4" instrument cable for the Circuit.
Plug one end into the L/mono input on the Circuit, plug the other end into one of the inputs on your audio interface.


Grab a 3.5mm and 1/4" cable like this for the Volca. Plug the tiny end into the headphones input on the Volca, plug the big end into another input on your audio interface.

Audio of both travels over USB. You can record into Audacity for free, or use whatever DAW you want.

If you want MIDI over USB, you'll need a different interface that has MIDI I/O.

You'll have to clarify the iphone and circuit question. I'm not sure it's possible to do what you have imagined.

My Presonus Audiobox USB only had one headphone out, so I got one of these for your exact purpose: https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=headphone+mixer&qid=1557174542&s=gateway&sr=8-9


just get a male-to-male TRS cable ( https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-110-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYH/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3QR9Z2RFJ35EW&keywords=trs+cable&qid=1557174680&s=gateway&sprefix=trs%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-3 ) to output from your audio interface into this mixer and then plug both headphones into the mixer and adjust the levels accordingly. Works great!

The cord on my good headphones broke, here's a nonbroken one I could use :)

Thanks for the contest!

If you only want mono you could go with something more like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D

It's that extra black ring on the 1/4 side of your adapter which is causing your sound quality issues so this one having the plain mono connector on the other side would take care of it.

....and going old school - an aux cable from the headphone jack into the microphone jack on your PC, then use Audacity to save it as a WAV file

https://www.cnet.com/uk/how-to/transfer-memorable-voice-mails-to-your-computer-with-a-simple-audio-trick/

(WAV files are uncompressed with no quality lost)

Like the other posters in this thread have said- the legality of recording this, or if the recording is legally acceptable in a court case is something for the company lawyer to decide on.

I use a ModMic 5 with my Sennheiser HD 650.

This adapter to split.

This cable to make it less annoying

The cable doesn't seem to be in stock anymore, but you get the idea.

Plug the cable into your controller, the splitter into the cable, the mic into the mic input of the splitter, and your headphones into the headphone input of the splitter.

Make sure any cables you get are 4-pole so it supports stereo audio plus the microphone.

The mic is detachable (magnetic) and looks like this attached.

Getting a set of T0s my self. :-)
Amazing little speakers and a sub out.

You need one of these and connect to the T0's analog input to the 6i6's line output.

I'm sure you can find other 1/4 to 1/8 cables, unless you really wanted a custom one like you said, sleeved. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36 And i'm sure you could pull off the 1/4 thing, might be a tight fix/awkward one.

I would recommend the Sennheiser Urbanite XL.
Just really good headphones with an inline mic for when you need it.

http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Urbanite-XL-Over-Ear-Headphones/dp/B00M3NZKA2/ref=sr_1_12?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1464997012&sr=1-12&keywords=sennheiser+headphones

and one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464996989&sr=8-2&keywords=sound+and+mic+splitter

> Can you connect the magni to a computer?

Yes, if your computer has a good oboard codec that is not noisy and features a line level output you can connect the Magni 2 directly to the PC with a cable like this

> is it worth buying the magni without the DAC

yes, for example if you have an onboard ALC1150 or already own a PCIe soundcard.

If you do not know how good the components of your PC are, just grab the Monoprice DAC/Amp combo unit.

Assuming that you are fine with using the right IEM earpiece in your left ear, your best options are:

• Convert all your audio to MONO using Audacity / ffmpeg / other alternative FREE
  
  
• Get yourself a 3.5mm Stereo Male to 3.5mm Mono Female Adapter $8

>If you look at the bottom of the mini mic and see port holes, you have the 2+.

So I need to get a cable like this and just slip into the green speaker input on the back of the motherboard input / output and then the other end into the mini mic?


In terms of sound quality would this be just as good as the phone clip bluetooth?


Also as far as the phone clip and bluetooth, could the phone clip also work with any bluetooth speaker?

Cool, thanks for the info. I think actually that this is the cable I need, I posted a question on amazon to see if it would work. I think the one you linked is to send a signal from say an iPod to your mixer. http://www.amazon.com/Y-Cable-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

Just you your PC/laptop connector? If your PC is in a hard to reach place, you can get an extender cable like this and route the connector to some other easy to access place when you can plug in/out the headphones from.

The 598s don't really need an amp if you have a PC with decent onboard audio stuff. You can still benefit from a lower cost DAC/DAC+AMP setup.

Hi bunting - I plug simple lavs with 3.5mm plugs into cameras all the time. Works fine. Here I am with a lav mic (pulled off one of my wireless transmitters) and plugged directly into my Panasonic GH2 (please forgive my head cold):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slRrwUiMGIw

consumer lavs with 3.5mm jacks cost from [$5 for 2 throwaway Neewer lavs] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIPQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005DJOIPQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link] up to [$18 for an Audio Technica ATR-3550] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HJ9PTO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002HJ9PTO&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link].

You should also get a [$5.30 Stereo male to mono female adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000O7AW98&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link]in case you run into a mono lav.

No need to rent an expensive mic and recorder.

Hope this is helpful!

Bill

I don't know of any good quality mechanical keyboards (in your price range) that come with a volume wheel or dial. Have you considered getting a standalone [Volume Control](http://www.Volbox.com/ Volume Adjuster Stereo Control Knob 3.5mm 1/8" Headp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XDKKQ9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SsC.ybGQQKYET)?

If you're OK with it, most recommendable mechanical keyboards have volume control on a layer, as in you press Fn + I for example to do Volume Up.

Yep, I think the PC37x are a fantastic choice. You'll likely need a Y-connector to plug it into your PS4 though.

Here's the cheapest on my list!

and

I wouldn't mind getting anything on my wishlist but if I had to choose, I'd choose this :D

Thanks!

I am copy-pasting the relevant portion from Help - Cosplay (from our audio recorder app which is for Android) - it relates to how to connect the earphone jack to an external microphone and external speaker - i.e. a setup suitable for cosplay (but will give you some idea of the options):

Quote:

Capabilities of the earphone jack on Android devices

The earphone jack on your device has pins for 2 channel (stereo) output, and 1 channel (mono) input. This is the case for both Android devices and iOS devices. That is, you can only have mono microphone input. This is why headsets have stereo earphones, but only one microphones (mono).

Here is a website with a good explanation of the earphone jack on your android device, and what the pins on the jack are used for (stereo out and mono in) - see the section - External microphone through the headset port.

Audio Recording With a Smartphone





Recommendations for Y-splitter cables and external speakers

For the external speaker, one with a wired connection will work, and these cost from 5 USD to 10 USD.

Y-splitters are also cheap (1 USD to 5 USD), but finding ones that actually work is more difficult (since headphone splitters look very similar, or the Y-splitter is made incorrectly).

Here is a combination of Y-splitter and external speaker that is recommended by cosplayers (the external speaker comes with a wearable directional microphone suitable for cosplay). These are costly, but known to work:



Manufacturer direct order links:

Rockit Y-splitter - Cost 11.95 USD



VoiceBooster MR1505 (Aker) 12watt Voice Amplifier - SKU: MR1505-12W - Cost 54 USD



VoiceBooster MR1506 (Aker) 10watt Voice Amplifier - SKU: MR1506-10W - Cost 48 USD




Y-splitters available on Amazon (we have not tested these)

ENVEL 3.5mm Jack Cable Adapter Kit Mutual Convertors for PC headset and Smartphone Tablet Earphone with Headphone/Microphone Function Simultaneously Y Splitter Audio 2 Female to 1 Male (Cable) - Cost 5 USD



StarTech.com Headset adapter for headsets with separate headphone / microphone plugs - 3.5mm 4 position to 2x 3 position 3.5mm M/F - Cost 7 USD

BEBONCOOL(TM) 3.5mm 4-Pin to 2x 3-Pin 3.5mm Headset Splitter Adapter M/F - Cost 6 USD



The same Aker speakers are available on Amazon:

VoiceBooster Voice Amplifier 12watts Black MR1505 (Aker) by TK Products, Portable, for Teachers, Coaches, Tour Guides, Presentations, Costumes, Etc. - Cost 64 USD



Y-splitters available on Ali Express (we have not tested these)

[Splitter Headphones jack 3.5 mm Stereo Audio Y-Splitter 2 Female 1 Male Cable Adapter with separate headphone / microphone plug - Cost 1.55 USD] (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-1pcs-lot-Gold-plated-Audio-Stereo-Plug-3-5mm-1-Male-to-2-Female/32339337262.html)

Splitter Headphones 3.5 mm plug Stereo Audio Y-Splitter 2 Female 1 Male Cable Adapter with separate headphone microphone jack - Cost 3 USD



The same Aker speakers are available on Ali Express:

Aker MR1505 Waistband Portable Loud Voice Booster Amplifier Speaker VoiceBooster Amplifier 12watts for MP3 - Cost about 30 USD

Aker MR1506 Voice Amplifier 10watts Black for Teachers, Coaches, Tour Guides, Presentations, Costumes etc - Cost about 30 USD

I’m not sure if the effects are stereo, but if you don’t care about going mono, you can use one of these: Hosa CMP-105 1/4 inch TS to 3.5 mm TRS Mono Interconnect Cable, 5 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MWqIAbCJBXKEC

Edit: But yes, a 3.5 mm (1/8th) TRS to dual 1/4 TS Y cable would work. Just don’t forget to hard pan each of the channels on the recorder.

Looks like your TV allows audio out through optical and 3.5mm ports, and your DVD system allows audio input for composite in the back. You should be able to get a 3.5mm to RCA cable and match those connections.

To expand on this, on page 30 in this manual for your DVD system, LINE 4 IN will allow you to connect an RCA/composite cable (the red/white cable) as an input, and on page 44 in the manual for your TV, it allows 3.5mm (headphone jack) connections as an audio output. You'd just need a cable like this to hook the two devices up.

Thanks. I remember the aux and phones output on my amp. So will something like this do ?

If the headphones come with a single cable (TRRS), you will ned a splitter.

Like that:
https://www.amazon.com/Maeline-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00PYZ2BT4

Also you will need an extension cable, since I dont think the fiio and your motherboard-mic-in are as close together as the splitter cable is short.

Other than that: you are good to go!

Can your drummer play to a click track? If not, don't bother because it won't come out very well.

If the drummer can play to a click track, then the cheapest way to do this is to create a stereo track with the click panned 100% into one ear, like this:

• Left Channel - Click track and bass track for drummer to listen to
  
  
• Right Channel - Bass track without click to send to sound board
  
  Then get a cable like this, put the left jack into a headphone amp for the drummer and the right jack into a DI box to go to the sound board.
  
  
  The not-so-cheap but more versatile way to do this is to get an audio interface with at least 2 outputs and use that with a laptop running Ableton or some other DAW to act as your click track and back tracks and only send the click to one output. This way allows you to mix the levels of the click and bass for your drummer.

So from what I'm understanding you want both your computer audio and your Switch audio to come through the a single pair headphones at the same time. That's do-able, but it's a bit more involved. The other option would be a mixer, but those are quite expensive.

So what you need to do is find the Line-In jack on the back of your computer. If you don't have one then you're out of luck and this won't work.

You'll need an aux cable, it looks like a headphone jack on both ends. This is a link to one if you aren't sure what it is. Plug one end into the headphone jack on the switch and the other into the Line-In on your computer

On your computer go to Sound Settings in the Control Panel. You can also use the search bar on your computer and search for "Sound".

In the main Sound settings there's a section for Input where you can choose your Input Device. Choose Line-In there.

Then click on Device Properties right below Input Device

Then click Additional Device Properties on the right

Now we're in Line-In properties, go to the Listen tab and check 'listen to this device'. Click on the drop down labeled "Playback through this device" and set it to your headphones.

You may also want to go to the Levels tab and turn up the volume coming from line in.

Press "OK" to close Line-In properties. You should now be hearing both your computer and the Switch audio through the same pair of headphones.

Instead of getting an audio adapter for GoPro (which doesn't let you record cockpit sound), I recommend buying a digital voice recorder with LINE IN (I have this one) and a simple 1/8in to 1/4in audio adapter cable. You plug the recorder into the headset jack and let it record your intercom, while your camera records the ambient noise. You can mix the two and tune audio levels in post-production. It costs about the same as the GoPro cable you linked to but gives you better results.

(I basically stole the idea from here.

I also want to point out that you can use this adapter with a 3.5 mm cable (Its like a male-male headphone cable) to play your ipod/mp3 through your amplifier. Assuming you don't have a line-in port.

Do you have earbuds for an ipod or phone? If so search couch cushions for change and buy this http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LDZ36 also available at best buy http://www.bestbuy.com/site/monoprice-6inch-3-5mm-stereo-jack-two-3-5mm-stereo-plug-cable/1310944923.p?id=mp1310944923&skuId=1310944923

HyperX Cloud Stinger

Steel Series Flux

And this cable

I have both and use them pretty interchangeably. Don't let the price $25 fool you on the Flux. It is an excellent headset (https://www.engadget.com/products/steelseries/flux/scores/).

Dude....six bucks on Amazon: Hosa Cable CMP105 1/8 Inch TRS to 1/4 Inch TS Cable - 5 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_z-Yevb0AE1WHG

I run my iPad directly into my 2i4 and it is great! However....this is a very sterile, digital approach (fine for quick demos)....now, to warm up the track, I run into a Studio Projects VTB1 - low plate voltage tube preamp: Studio Projects VTB1 Microphone Preamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E3NQC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rbZevb0WZPQSP

Drop a decent tube in, and all the sudden your guitar leaves the fizzy digital realm...

That Pre isn't bad for mics, either - just remember to run a 1/4" cable, not a mic cable in between.

I also bought the LSR305s and was getting a lot of background noise from my motherboard. I picked up a Behringer U-PHORIA UMC202HD for $50 on sale. Looks like you can pick it up for ~$100 on amazon or eBay right now. It has balanced TRS outputs and you can independently control the speaker and headphone volumes with the knobs on the right side.

Make sure you also have a pair of TRS to TRS cables. I use these.

Edit: I forgot you'd also need a 1/4" adapter for your headphones as they come with a 3.5mm one.

The headphone jack on the Switch is still active and works while docked. You could get an extension cable or two and sit comfortably away.

Not sure about the headset. It should work in the 3.5mm jack? Not sure why you would need the adapter. It either works with Xbox One or doesn't.

EDIT: Ooooh wait. That headset has 2 separate wires for headset and mic right? Green and pink? That won't work on Xbox One. You don't need the $25 Microsoft adapter you need a Y adapter that will turn your two wires into one. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M0T6PSF/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487042580&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=headphone+y+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=4149AcA4MLL&ref=plSrch

As for the extra hard drive you can get just about any USB 3.0 external drive and it will work. You could find a 1tb one for what looks like $50-60 on Amazon right now.

I use these for the mono Volcas. Works perfectly!

I did a little Googling and found a quick and dirty way to accomplish this:

Connect your optical line to one of these.

Then, connect one of these things to it.

Finally, hook up one of these guys.

Hopefully that helps!