Reddit mentions: The best straight, spiral & trim bits
We found 137 Reddit comments discussing the best straight, spiral & trim bits. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 80 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Router Bit Set- 24 Piece Kit with ¼” Shank and Wood Storage Case By Stalwart (Woodworking Tools for Home Improvement and DIY)
- DURABLE CONSTRUCTION – Stalwart’s carbide tipped router bits are built to last and are constructed using high quality materials. Along with the sturdy wooden case, this durable router bit set will allow you to complete all your projects with confidence.
- MULTIFUNCTIONAL SET - With 24 included pieces, this kit is great for multipurpose uses. It is perfect for woodworking, edging, trimming, grooving, veining wood projects, and ideal for carpenters and hobbyists of all experience levels. This set also includes an allen wrench for removing bearings.
- EASY TO STORE- The included wooden case is sturdy and makes storing the high-quality router bits convenient while in-between jobs or DIY home improvement projects. The case also helps protect the bits while traveling to work on the go or remote site locations
- SET INCLUDES- 1/2 mortising bit, 1/2 combination bevel bit, 3/8 dovetail bit, 1/2 dovetail bit, 1/2 90 degree V-groove bit, 3/8 round nose bit, 1/2 round nose bit, 3/8 trimming bit, 1/4 panel pilot bit, 1/4 straight bit, 3/8 straight bit, 1/2 straight bit, 3/4 straight bit, 1/2 flush trim bit, 1/8 radius round over bit, 3/16 radius round over bit, 1/4 radius round over bit, 3/8 radius round over bit, 1/4 cove bit, 3/8 cove bit, 1/2 45 degree chamfer bit, 1/4 Roman Ogee bit, 1/4 slot cutter bit, 1/2 rabeting bit, wood case
- Router bit bits set tongue and groove wood doors flooring shaker door routers panel shank joint 1 2 storage kit holder for cabinet sets inch case box plywood tool tools accessories DIY home improvement
Features:
Specs:
Color | Wood |
Height | 14.25 Inches |
Length | 0.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 24 pc |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 13.5 Inches |
2. Freud 1-3/4 In Diam by ¾ In Double Flute Straight Router Bit w/½" Shank (12-194)
Ideal for general stock removalFeatures Freud's TiCo Hi-Density Carbide cuts for maximum durability, long life and a flawless finishCuts all composite materials, plywoods, hardwoods, and softwoodsUse on CNC and other automatic routers as well as hand-held and table-mounted portable routersUnique she...
Specs:
Color | Red |
Height | 0.51 Inches |
Length | 6.25 Inches |
Size | One Size |
Weight | 0.55 Pounds |
Width | 0.82 Inches |
3. Whiteside Router Bits 401 Basic Router Bit with 1/2-Inch Shank
Whiteside Router Bits are made with Premium CarbidePrecision ground for proper balance at high RPMIndustrial Quality
Specs:
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Width | 8.5 Inches |
4. Roman Carbide DC1261 1-1/2-Inch Bottom Cleaning, 1/2-Inch Shank
- A = 1-1/2 Inch Cutter Diameter
- B = 7/16 Inch Cutting Length
- C = 2-1/4 Inch Overall Length
- 1/2 Inch Shank Diameter
Features:
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1-1/2" |
5. Freud 1/2" (Dia.) Top Bearing Flush Trim Bit with 1/4" Shank (50-102),Red
- TOP BEARING FLUSH TRIM BITS
- Ideal for lettering and other template work
- Overall Dia. (D) 1/2", bearing Dia. 1/2", carbide height (h) 1", 1/4" Shank
- Features Freud's TiCo Hi-Density Carbide cuts for maximum durability and long life
Features:
Specs:
Color | Red |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
6. Freud 1/2" (Dia.) Bearing Flush Trim Bit with 1/2" Shank (42-116)
- FLUSH TRIMMING BIT
- FLUSH TRIMMING BIT
- FLUSH TRIMMING BIT
- FLUSH TRIMMING BIT
- FLUSH TRIMMING BIT
- 1/2-inch diameter, 2-inch height, 1/2-inch shank
- Ground carbide with titanium for long life
- Anti-kickback
- Computer balanced for vibration free operation speeds over 22,000 RPM
- Impervious to chemical attack
Features:
Specs:
Color | Perma-SHIELD Coating Red |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Weight | 0.27 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
7. Amana Tool - 45487 Carbide Tipped Flush Trim Plunge Template 1/2 Dia x 1/2 x 1/4" Shan
- Diameter (D) 1/2
- Cutting height (B) 1/2
- Shank (D) 1/4
- Overall length (L) 2
- Replacement collar 47724
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.7 Inches |
Length | 4.6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1/2 Dia x 1/2 x 1/4" Sh |
Weight | 0.06 Pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
8. Freud 1/2" (Dia.) Double Flute Straight Bit with 1/2" Shank (12-128),Red
- End of bit relief allows for fast plunging
- Cuts all composite materials, plywoods, hardwoods, and softwoods
- Freud straight bits cut smoother than other bits because of the precise shear and hook angles
- Overall Dia. (D) 1/2", Carbide Height (h) 2", 1/2" Shank
Features:
Specs:
Color | Red |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | One Size |
Weight | 0.21875 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
9. HQMaster CNC Router Bits, 10 Pack Router Bit Single End Mill Set Milling Cutter Tungsten Steel Engraving Carving Tool Kit
- Range of processing ---- for carving/cutting/engraving/milling in materials like density board, wood, acrylic, PVC, PVC expansion sheet, plastics, MDF etc.
- High efficiency ---- these bits own sharp edge which is able for fast engraving that makes high efficiency; durable, high precision and not easy to break; it is smokeless and burr-free while processing
- Perfect cutting ---- the design of flute, larger spiral chip space and mirror polishing of CNC Router Bit makes non-stick crumbs, smooth cutting and fast chip-removal
- Dimensions ---- shank diameter: 1/8" (3.175mm); cutting edge length/flute length: 12mm; overall length (OAL): 38.5mm
- Package contents ---- 10pcs tungsten steel upcut bits assorted in a storage case
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.3543307083 Inches |
Length | 2.1653543285 Inches |
Size | 3.175 x 12 x 38.5 mm |
Width | 2.0078740137 Inches |
10. Whiteside Router Bits SC28C Flush Trim Bit with Solid Carbide 1/4-Inch Cutting Length
Whiteside Router Bits are made with Premium CarbidePrecision ground for proper balance at high RPMIndustrial Quality
Specs:
Height | 3.5 Inches |
Length | 2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
11. HQMaster 10Pcs CNC Rotary Burrs Set End Mill Engraving Bits PCB Milling Bits 1/8'' Shank Titanium Coated Tungsten Steel Corn Milling Cutter Tool for SMT Mold Plastic Fiber Wood Carbon Insulation Board
- Shank diameter (SD): 1/8"(3.175mm); Cutting edge diameter (CED): 3.175mm
- Cutting edge length (CEL)/Flute length: 12mm
- Overall length/Total length: 38.5mm approx.
- Coatings: titanium; Material: tungsten steel; Quantity: Pack of 10 (coming with storage case)
- Rang of processing: PCB, SMT, CNC, Mold, Engraving, plastic, copper, stainless steel, other precision metal parts processing
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.35433 Inches |
Length | 2.16535 Inches |
Size | 3.175 x 3.175 x 12 x 38.5 mm |
Width | 2.00787 Inches |
12. BQLZR 20 Degree 0.1mm Carbide Engraving Bits CNC Router Tool For PCB Board Pack Of 10
- 20 Degree 0.1mm Carbide Engraving Bits
- Router Tool For PCB Board
- Razor blades permanently enclosed in a cartridge or housing with less than 2mm of blade exposed. The bladed product is not use for people under 18 years. The item is only use for industrial /engraving, not hazardous article.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 0.00393700787 Inches |
Length | 1.27165354201 Inches |
Weight | 0.0881849048 Pounds |
Width | 0.12598425184 Inches |
13. SKIL 91030 Carbide Router Bit Set, 30-Piece
30-piece carbide router bit setVariety of popular cutting profilesSolid wood felt lined case
Specs:
Color | Multi |
Height | 2.25 Inches |
Length | 16 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | One Size |
Weight | 3 Pounds |
Width | 8.75 Inches |
14. JKM NEMA17 0.9 Degree 42 Two Phase Hybrid Stepper Motor 40mm 1.68A For CNC Router
Specs:
Weight | 1 Pounds |
15. CNBTR 1/4 Inch Shank Dia Silver & Red Carbide Woodworking Straight Router Bit Set Pack of 7
16. CMT 806.690.11B Flush Trim Bit with Double Bearing, 2-Inch Cutting Length and 1/2-Inch Shank
3/4-Inch Diameter, 4-5/16-Inch Overall Length2 carbide cutting tips for long-lasting performanceDown shear design allows for clean smooth cuts on many materialsNo need to flip or move your tool if you need to ride it from either direction to the other sideExcellent for routing curved elements along ...
Specs:
Height | 0.75 Inches |
Length | 4.31 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.4 Pounds |
Width | 0.75 Inches |
17. Yonico 14169q 1/2-Inch Hinge Mortise Flush Trim Template Router Bit 1/4-Inch Shank
Flush trim templates and patterns for a wide variety of projectsPremium C3 micro-grain tungsten carbide blades for a sharper & longer lasting edgeFor use on table mount and handheld routerSilver induction brazing for maximum strength and durability
Specs:
Height | 0.5 Inches |
Length | 2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.22 Pounds |
Width | 0.5 Inches |
18. Vermont American 23161 1/2-by-1-Inch Straight Router Bit, 1/2-Inch Top Ball Bearing 1/4-Inch Shank
- Razor sharp cutting edge diamond honed for smooth cuts
- Triple tempered shank for maximum durability
- Industrial micro grain Carbide for smooth cut
Features:
Specs:
Color | NA |
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 2.6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Width | 1.5 Inches |
19. uxcell 1/2" Dia Straight Router Bits Double Flutes 2" Flute Length with 1/2" Shank
- Industrial quality straight router bit, high hardness, long service life and nice cuts
- Cutting Diameter: 1/2-inch; Flute Length: 2-inch; Shank Diameter: 1/2-inch
- Tungsten Carbide cutters; Solid Hardened Steel (45# Steel) Bodies with Anti-Kickback Design; Individually computer balanced
- Cuts all composite materials, plywoods, hardwoods, and softwoods (Color of router bits will be shipped at random.)
- Can be used with handheld, table-mounted and CNC routers. Rotation Speed (suggested): 22000-24000/Min, feed Speed (suggested): 3-5M/Min
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.79 Inches |
Length | 8.27 Inches |
Size | 2 in |
Width | 5.91 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on straight, spiral & trim bits
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where straight, spiral & trim bits are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Gladly. I bought 1"x4"x8' clear-heart redwood boards. I also borrowed a router and router bench and bought a [tongue and groove set] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM2AIS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and ran all of my boards through the router. You can definitely buy wood already tongue and grooved which is a lot easier, but I was really specific about the wood I wanted to use so I had to do it myself. If you're going to do it yourself and haven't done it before, definitely test it out on some throwaway wood to practice before you start cutting into your stock.
Once they were all t&g'd I started mounting them against the plywood walls and they just stack on top of each other. I cleaned off all the wood sticking out past the walls with a router template bit. I used Lexel to seal the edges between the redwood siding and the plywood, then cut some 1/8" plywood as trim to cover the gap, you can see me clamping the trim on here. I also had to cut out my doors/windows, etc.
For the outer roof and hatch, I used 1/8in Marine grade plywood. It's super durable, and bent easily over the frame. For the inner roof I used 1/8in maple plywood, and in-between both those layers I filled it with insulation. You can kinda see the process here.
I finished the siding and redwood with Waterlox Sealer & Finish. It's a tung oil sealer, and the finish is marine spar varnish that protects against water, UV...etc. The best part is if it ever needs a new coat you don't need to sand, you just add on a new layer and it kinda 'burns' in.
As for cost....I'm not sure, I stopped keeping track :P - Redwood can get expensive, but I really liked it so I splurged. You can get just as beautiful a finish with pine, which is much easier to find already tongue and grooved. Pine is great as long as you seal it.
Here's some photos of the process and the finish. Please let me know what other questions you have!
Yes, that's what that description means. I wouldn't get that router bit though. What you want is a top-bearing pattern bit. [Something like this, though it doesn't have to be this exact one.] (http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim/dp/B0000225XQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457217370&sr=8-1&keywords=router+pattern+bit+top+bearing) As far a brands, I like Whiteside, Amana, or Freud. It's fine to go with something cheaper, you'll just get less life out of the cutters.
You need to make yourself a template the exact size of your mortise and plunge in with the router. The template will look roughly like this. The cleat on the bottom of the template in that image is not strictly necessary; it's fine to just clamp your template to your work piece. Any scrap piece of plywood is fine for a template. MDF works well too, but is softer, so I wouldn't recommend it if you want to use this template a whole bunch of times. It can also be a good idea to make two templates - that way if you mess up and run your router into the edge (which can be pretty easy to do), you have a back up.
I've been trying to find a video of someone doing this, but all i'm seeing are people doing things that are way over-complicated. If you're interested in proceeding like this and you want more help feel free to message me with questions. Good luck!
I’m using Kool Mist for just about everything and I’ve been happy with it. It’s cheap, works well and doesn’t leave a huge mess. If I could run a proper flood coolant system I would, but due to being an open machine I can’t.
The bath is super easy, it’s just a bit more involved to set up. If I had an enclosed machine, I’d be inclined to run it with flood coolant every time, but I’d be worried about that getting into the machine. Getting that powder on your ways is fucking terrible and can destroy a machine pretty quickly if you’re not cleaning everything after each time you cut CF. I think the extra time for setup is worth it, but I’m not running production or having to hold super tight tolerances in most cases.
I’ve mainly been doing 3mm CF using 1/8” end mills. I’m pretty sure I’m using what you’re describing. I get the coated carbide diamond pattern end mills from Amazon. (HQMaster 10Pcs CNC Rotary Burrs Set End Mill Engraving Bits PCB Milling Bits 1/8'' Shank Titanium Coated Tungsten Steel Corn Milling Cutter Tool for SMT Mold Plastic Fiber Wood Carbon Insulation Board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G3Z5FJ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G7YTCbMCMRXQ1). They’re incredibly cheap, last pretty long and give a surprisingly good finish. It doesn’t feel right that they work so well.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ppmfdrz532wbtu4/Photo%20Apr%2017%2C%204%2054%2020%20AM.jpg?dl=0
Here’s the part I cut last night. I’m very happy with those end mills. Especially considering I was using a 400 watt spindle slapped onto the Fryer’s head ahah.
> How much play in your motor shaft is there? How much runout is there on the bit at the collet? How much at the end of the bit? How much at the front and back of the collet pocket?
Enough that I can move it about .5(?) mm side to side with my finger. When I try to make a dot on my copper clad board I get a circle that's roughly the same diameter. What's a collet pocket?
> Ideally there should be zero play in your shaft, but on cheaper stuff that isn't always the case. (Like, literally zero: bearings should have some preload from installation.)
Yeah, this is a super cheap motor. I'm using one of these.
> Other possibilities: Are you using the right size and type of collet, properly installed? Is everything clean and free of dirt, dust, debris, etc.?
Yeah, I'm sure I'm using the proper collet, but I've ordered another set just to be sure. This is the collet set I have, and and these are the bits I'm using. I know these have been successfully used by others. I chose my parts off this home brew machine, but actually designed my own setup.
Sure!
A planer is essentially just a really big two flute router bit with removable blades that can also be adjusted.
Get yourself a two flute straight edge plunger bit, (something like this), and put it in your router. Make sure your bed is setup properly to mimick a jointer setup, then hold the board flat to the table, and push into the router wall a little bit, and you'll get a clean edge suitable for jointing.
It's effectively a planer on its side. I really like it because I prefer the motion of pushing compared to a planer but that's just me.
Sadly, using this method, you're bits will wear uneven over time and you'll start to notice that your joints aren't perfectly 90, so you'll have to replace the bit. But in all honesty, planer blades wear too (people just don't notice as easily since you can't pick up the blade and compare it to a straight edge compared to a bit) and they're probably the same cost as a new bit to get sharpened professionally or replace.
There are router jigs that are really cool you should google. I don't use them but i really want to try them out. They help remove a lot of the pressures and help give you a straight edge to work with.
Youtube is your friend!
I would agree with the previous replies - good value router bits will be inherently good quality. Poor router bits will be a nightmare to work with and not last nearly as long as the higher quality ones.
My personal favorite is Whiteside and if you're looking for a set you might start with this. I've also heard good things about Freud and CMT. If you're on a tight budget you may consider something like Woodriver or Grizzly.
As others have said, you probably want to buy bits as you need them instead of a full set you may or may not use. I'm not sure what specific bits you're looking for in terms of radius etc - you'll have to see if it's more cost effective to purchase individually or as a starter set.
One final comment - I would strongly recommend getting 1/2" shank bits instead of 1/4" shank bits if possible. They'll last longer and provide smoother cuts through improved heat capacity and reduced vibration.
Edit: If you're willing to do some reading, check out this article. It's a torture test of the most popular brands and discusses their performance in several different woods and cutting scenarios.
Good idea for the spacer. I actually had to make my router sled two sided. One side had rails that were one layer thick, the other had two for the thicker stock. So if the boards were too thick for the side with one layer, i could take it down to that size first.
The sides were supposed to be about .065 to about .080 inches thick i was closer to about .055 to .060 in thick. Thin enough to bow out a bit eventually, even though bending adds structure. This was the first thing I did so I didnt quite have the technique down. I found the key was to take small even measurements, as well as to measure often and since i hot glued the pieces down, i had to remember to take into account the dofference that makes, as well as having to sand/scrape away the striations left by the router. I also found that running the router in line with the plunge handles and in very shallow passes helped minimize this.
The back of mine is about 3mm, and I was shooting for about 2.5 final. The front should have been about 2mm, and that ended up about 2.5 the last I measured, but while finishing i actually stripped all the finish off and scraping a bunch to remove gouge marks so I think i emded up closer to my goal anyway.
Forgive the mixture of units, but my calipers went between the two easily and different sources said different things.
This is the bit I used. I boughr it for this project and I have been more that happy with it. If you do make the uke, be sure to practice on scraps for everything you havent tried before. Using the router, you will want to get a card scrapper, it takes care of the srriations in no time.
Another point of reference -- I'm assuming you're using the standard 1.5kw/2.2kw spindle. I've been doing 0.9mm DOC, 1000mm/min at 12000rpm using single-flute 12mm CEL cutters in 6061. The shorter flute length is key -- I went through a pack of 17mm CEL cutters on one part, but then cut almost 10 pieces with slightly more aggressive settings using the shorter tools.
Another very important thing is to evacuate the chips in deep slots. I was mostly doing 1/4" aluminum, and I ended up using an air compressor pointed at the cut to blow out the chips reliably at the bottom. I had to use a ton of WD40 to flush out the chips, which is not economical. Standard isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) actually worked just as well, if not better since the evaporation carries away more heat.
Another thing I've been meaning to try is trochoidal milling for cutting out aluminum plates like that. Should save a lot on tool life.
One last hint I forgot -- you need a VERY STIFF machine to go this aggressively! On my little X-carve clone, the best settings I got was 0.25mm DOC, 800mm/min, 20krpm. The "chips" were basically just aluminum dust. The new machine I'm using is an old retrofitted CNC router with linear rails and servos, and actually cuts nice solid chips at these settings.
I actually started out with a bit set from Skil, that I got on clearance at Lowes. I think I paid about $80 and it had 30 different bits in a nice little wood and glass case. they aren't super high quality and can't do everything, but it allowed me to learn and make quite a few really cool things without breaking the bank. These aren't my "forever" bits, but the cost savings was huge and I still use quite a few of them. as I find things I can't do with that set, or one gets too dull to continue using I just buy a quality one.
I know that goes against the normal advice in this sub, but it worked very well for me so I have to recommend giving it a try.
edit: a quick search on amazon yielded this, which is the same set I have. none of the bits have broken though many did dull rather quickly. I have a drawer full of higher quality bits now, but each one of them costs about a third to half of what this set did. The set was a better value for a beginner, IMO.
the 8825 really shine on big motors at 2A. If you are aiming for 1.5A the 8825 is not really going to be ultra efficient. I agree that 1.5A is a good power level for a Hypercube. You should use .9 degree motors as they are really better suited for that AMP range. They will cost slightly more, but really negligible (maybe 1-2$ extra per stepper). Aim for something like these https://www.amazon.com/NEMA17-Degree-Hybrid-Stepper-Router/dp/B077372DHP/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1518064001&sr=8-5&keywords=.9+degree+stepper+motor Obviously you can find them cheaper. You want your steppers rated slightly higher then you intend to run them for. Dont overthink it. 2A steppers will work well too. When in doubt its always OK to get a bigger motor then what you need.
to expand on this.
you'll want to buy a cheap powered router, a straight bit, a couple of clamps and HEARING and EYE PROTECTION.
i can't stress those last two enough.
once you've done that,
i recommend practicing on a bit of extra wood. get the idea down and then do it on your final piece.
1/2" is definitely better than 1/4".
As far as router bit sets - I'm generally not a fan of the big sets. You'll get way more than you need, and the bits aren't very high quality.
Do yourself a favor and invest in high quality bits for the basic profiles. Whiteside's 401 set is a great place to start: https://smile.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-401-2-Inch/dp/B000AM31QI/
I've used a similar setup to finish end grain slices and gotten best results from a 1 3/4” Freud straight bit. Shallow passes with the bit's big cutting area leaves a pretty smooth finish. Minimal sanding (think 15 mins with ROS) to get rid of faint lines.
Also, make sure the wood itself isn't moving at all. That can produce gouges.
Freud 1-3/4 In. Diameter by ¾ In. Double Flute Straight Router Bit with ½" Shank (12-194) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rtZHzbA2T2QG2
If you get a good spiral bit like this or a smaller spiral bit it will probably help, but you still might get tear-out. A two-bearing (top and bottom bearings) bit like ElPolloRico suggested would help as well. I would avoid the big CMT bit on Amazon, though, because I've had a hard time limiting tear out, regardless of feed or grain direction.
I'd start with one of these, one of these, and add on this one.
That should have you pretty well covered for about $40.
I also heard good things about Infinity router bits, but i haven't been able to bring myself to spend the money on them. They have a slight downcut angle to the cutting edge instead of being totally straight, so they cut cleaner and easier from having a shearing effect going on instead of just brute cutting force.
Assuming you don't have access to a milling machine, which is truly the right tool for this job, I would think a router table with a long enough straight edging bit is the ticket. Something like this.
I would recommend making a jig to allow you to control the workpiece while you move it along the router bit.
I was curious, so looked up some prices.
$24 - Jigsaw
$70 - Router (fixed base)
$5 - Flush trim bit
$15 - chamfer bit
$40 - Circular saw
$30 - Drill
$61 - Shop-vac
$40 - electric hand planer
$285 for major tools used, brand new. Chuck in another $25 or so for tax, and that's $310. Didn't include table saw, because really it's unnecessary for this particular project. Didn't include router table for same reason. Let's add another $90 and make it an even $400 to include miscellaneous tools that may be needed. That's honestly not bad starting from absolutely nothing.
I used a 1 3/4" Freud straight cut bit. Something like a Whiteside WS1101 would provide 2” of cutting and be slightly more time efficient I suppose. On this slab the result was pretty good, although given the width of the sled and me leaning over it with too much weight at times, some routes were slightly different. Not much though, but I did give it a 60/100/150 grit belt sand before random orbiting. I used the same process on the maple bench you see in some of the photos. With a smaller sled and not having to lean over the work on the garage floor, the maple top came out damn near perfect and required only finish sanding (there were visible lines on the maple but you couldn't really feel them brushing around with your hand).
Needing quick advice on carbide bits, buying today
Which one(s) would you buy and a very brief explanation to why?
This is what I'm looking at:
Amazon:
Hiltex 10100 Tungsten Carbide Router Bits
CARBIDE ROUTER BIT SET - 35 piece 1/4 shank NEW BITS by EDMBG
Router Bit Set- 24 Piece Kit with ¼” Shank and Wood Storage Case By Stalwart (Woodworking Tools for Home Improvement and DIY)
Sears:
Craftsman 30 pc. Router Bit Set
Harbor Freight:
Carbide Tip Router Bit Set 12 Pc
Carbide Tip Woodworking Router Bit Set Pc
Note: I'm intentionally NOT wanting a $120+ starter kit, that's by design. I'm also having to budget for carving tips which are gonna cost about $25 each, if you have a favorite brand you use, let me know - I'm willing to go ahead and splurge a bit more on these bits as I tend on using them far more.
I like your method for trimming the veneer from the speaker holes, maybe kind of overkill though.
In the past, I've used this bit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2G69M
It only needs 1/8" clearance. https://i.imgur.com/BqDFW4i.jpg
As long as you let the router do the work and don't force it against the wood, it works like a charm.
Buy a cheap multi-bit set, like this one to get you started. As you work on projects over time, you'll discover which bits you use and which you don't. As you break/dull bits from use, you'll know which are the important bits and can replace them with better quality individual bits. Also, you'll discover that bits come in 1/4 and 1/2 shanks, so you'll need/want to purchase (if you don't already have one) a collet for the correct size bits.
It's difficult to route out a shape freehand, and keep nice, straight lines. You can either stay inside the lines, and clean it up with a chisel, or make a template and use a pattern bit. With a bit like this, you make the template the exact size of the cut you want to make.
Router sled.
Mine is very similar to this one, though you should probably start smaller to fit the sizes you would commonly work on.
You'll need a full size router and a wide flat bottom bit (I have this one). Wider bits for larger pieces to save time.
No you stick the laminant to the wood first then cut it to size and cut out the sink.
You will need a flush cut bit This allows you to cut the counter a little oversized, stick it to the wood then trim with the router bit.
I just did my first counter like this and it turned out great. I put oak trim on the side with a half inch round edge.
Here is the counter I did last year in my tiny house
And another
It has held up very well and I really like the look. Both countertops and with the wood, glue and the bit was about $120 CDN. Cheaper and way nicer than you can buy IMO.
If you need more detailed steps just let me know.
The roundover bit is the 1/4" one from this set.
The flush trim bit I used is this one.
The flush trimming was hard because it attacked the grain where it was weak. I ended up doing a lot of careful climb cutting to get around the issues, which is no fun. If I were going to produce lots of these, I might give something like this a try. In theory, the shear angle should be a lot friendlier to the wood.
I didn't make the dowel. I usually make my own, but my doweling plate only goes up to 5/8" and since the dowels aren't glued in, getting "close enough" wasn't going to work. I'm sure someday I'll talk myself into a doweling jig like this, but that's a lot to spend on a tool I would basically only use for odd jobs like this.
As it turns out, the commercial dowels I bought aren't that good. The walnut ones are perfect, but the cherry/maple are loose. I have cherry/maple dowel on order from Lee Valley that are supposed to be to tighter tolerances.
If I were doing it, I'd make a pattern from a 1/4 piece of MDF by:
it involves some specialty tools, but they are inexpensive and it provides a way to make a perfectly routed circle of very precise dimensions.
here's a video that shows how pattern cutting works with a router
The challenge for buying something for someone that likes woodworking is that you don't know what kind of tools they want/need. Not to mention tools tend to be quite a bit more expensive than the price point you mentioned.
You could consider purchasing them something that will come in handy, if not immediately so. Router bits, saw blades, drill bits, or wood project packs are all something that would see mileage.
Here's a couple ideas from browsing Amazon.
Rosewood Cutting Guage
[Crown Marking Knife] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9KOTQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=ILFECPNG7H6C1)
[Router Radi Guide] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040BNLRO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=I1EHDP8Y8SGNEO)
[A Flush Trim Bit for Patterns] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000225XQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1XH9ERR8QY3ND&coliid=I1TEA98C23FQ2D&psc=1)
Edit: I should point out that not everyone may agree with this list. This is just stuff that, in my experience, is either a Quality of Life type item or something that people have to buy as bits tend to wear out, etc.
I got this cheap set first (on sale for $30 now).
I'll purchase the more expensive Whiteside ones once I'm comfortable with routing.
I bought these ones, hopefully they are good? This is my first router.
Yeah, I second this advice. I used this bit with good results the last time I used a router sled. With a 1-3/4" cut, it's about 7-8 passes per foot depending on how much overlap each pass.
You could use a flush trim bit with a bottom bearing, like this one.
knife and then sanding could work, or something like this if your recess is 1/8" deep or more.
Which design is that looks like RS drivers?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_ztwGybJKHHQHK
My bits are part of this series:
http://www.infinitytools.com/routing/router-bits/carbide/groove-making-router-bits/dado-planer-router-bits
This low cost bit worked surprisingly well for me:
Magnate 2705 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_iNwGybJCQKMXB
Not too sure why you've ruled out a router. Here's a quick example of a straight bit that will go to 2.5" deep. While the flutes may not be 2.5" long, as long as the total bit length is around 3" or more it should be able to reach the full depth with 1/2 an inch being held in the collet. It is still a good idea to hog out the waste with a drill, and take light cuts with the router. The bit that I linked to has an overall length of 4 1/8", which would provide a comfortable amount of shank in the collet.
Cuttable area
Btw I am using the dual endstops I think that is critical for what I am doing
It makes it much easier to split up jobs or change a bit etc
HQMaster CNC Router Bits, 10 Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F35WQYG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are the bits I used so far
They measure 3mm with my calipers
This is the one I use https://smile.amazon.com/Freud-Double-Flute-Straight-12-194/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542225656&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+straight+router+bit+1+3%2F4
Or:
http://www.amazon.com/Roman-Carbide-DC1261-2-Inch-Cleaning/dp/B005W18EIW
You can use a larger bit and just take off less with each pass. Personallyy with flattening a workbench I'd rather be on the side of larger bit, less depth at one time. Here's a decent 1 3/4" flat bottom
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7CZ
I ordered these straight bits lastnight as they were cheap and the reviews are decent. At $20 I'm not going to be too upset if they end up being garbage, but at least I'll have something to practice on and get familiar with the router. I have this bit in my cart for order later today- this is the bit I'll actually need for the project I posted about. Is this one decent for the price? Mind you, as of now I won't be using these a bunch so I don't think I really need contractor quality bits that would see daily wear as it's not really in the budget currently.
http://www.amazon.com/Dia-Top-Bearing-Flush-Trim/dp/B0000225XQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/Trademark-Stalwart-Multi-Purpose-24-Piece-Router/dp/B000X47YDE
Most recommended reviews say they are cheap and possibly dangerous.
Take a piece of MDF, cut a circle in it with a hole-saw or a jig-saw. Use this type of bit in the router. The bearing follows your template.
I'm struggling with setting up a jib for cutting dados with a router.
I'm using 3/4" ply and want to cut a 3/8" deep dado. I followed this guide and bought this router bit, but it seems way too deep. What bit should I buy to make this work?
I used a 1 3/4 flat bit and took off between 1/8 and 1/4 per pass, sometimes more in particularly high spots. The slab started out very wavy!
Next time I would use longer rails, both for the sled to ride on and for the sled itself, I kept having to move the slab and rails around to get at different areas and it was a pain.