Reddit mentions: The best stud finders & scanners

i'm not a fan of buying kits or any sort of bargain tool sets. you get what you pay for and those i have found are usually not worth thier weight.

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start with the basics. for pliers and screwdrivers i'd go for Klein Tools. thier 11-in-1 screwdriver is usually all I needed when going to figure out a problem in a tenant's apt. they even make precision screwdrivers. a pair of linesman plier and needlenose are both super handy. an adjustable wrench is a great tool to have. always helpful to not have to go digging for the right size. pump pliers are prefect for any stuck valve or even to get your garden hose on and off. i'd also get a voltage tester. if you do anything with electrical wiring before you zap yourself you can test if the power is on or off.

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for a tape measure you can't go wrong with a classic Stanley. there's lots of options in this department. stanley also makes decent saws. for general purposes the SHarptooth will work. hack saws are for cutting any sort of metal. a general socket set is also good to have. if you're working with any sort of wood you'll need a good block plane. same goes for for chisels. if you're nailing on trim you'll need a nailset so you can hit the head of the nail and not the wood around it.

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there's lots of types of utility knives available too. Stanley still makes thier classic model. Dewalt recently released a snap-off blade knife that's all-metal. i have a half dozen already, they feel good in your hand and it's easy to get a new sharp edge. Milwaukee makes flip-open utility knifes that are pretty handy too. or you could go for a classic Olfa. that metal tail doubles as a paint can opener.

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a good pair of Aviation Snips will do a lot for you. they're great for cutting sheet metal, siding, metal fencing or even some plastics.

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i buy all my Squares and Levels from Empire Tools. start with a torpedo level. they're the most handy and most often used in my kits. from hanging paintings to leveling your stove to building a workbench.

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i've had lots of hammers, currently use Stiletto ones but a good Estwing will last you a lifetime. they also make the best small pry bar.

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good paintbrushes are easy to find. Wooster makes a few. just make sure you clean them well after each use and store them either in the original packaging or wrapped in newspaper so you don't ruin the bristles.

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clamps are always handy in and around the house and shop.

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a good caulk gun like this Tajima is last you a lifetime.

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if you're doing any sort of furniture making get yourself a kregjig. it's a pocket hole jig. worth every penny!

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want to get fancy? get a stud finder. ditch the battery ones and go for a Studpop. it finds the screws or nails already holding up your drywall.

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don't know if you're considering cordless power tools. personally, i'd get into the Milwaukee M12 line. you can start with a basic set and expand from there. it's one of the largest lines of 12V tools and they're as powerful if not more powerful than some 18V tools. i know a plumber who uses them exclusively because every power tool he needs is run of the same battery. you can always add tools or bigger capacity batteries as you need them later from their full line.

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let me know if you want more info or ideas or need help sourcing particular tools. my brother used to run a tool and hardware store so i've been looking for the best of the best for years.

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Sturdy step stool ($40) - not the rickety tubular kitchen chair ones, I mean one where you can stand on the top. a Buy it for Life item, not inexpensive, but safe. https://www.amazon.com/Louisville-Ladder-AS3002-6966014-2-Foot/dp/B00182TWL2

Leatherman multi tool (around $50), which i keep in the junk bowl because I can never find a screwdriver fast enough. Pricey new, less expensive when you buy it second hand or in a pawn shop. they don't really break, but you do have to clean and oil them once a year. https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-Wingman-Multitool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B005DI0XM4/

Cordless drill (under $50), mine basically has the screw driver bit in it 90% of the time. the rest of the time I drill lots of pilot holes. pay attention to the battery... if you can get one with a battery that is shared by other tools in the line, then it is easily replaceable and if you buy another tool in that line you can swap batteries. I like to have 1 battery in the charger and one in the device. https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Cordless-Driver-BDCDD12C/dp/B0111N8L7I/

Spirit, bubble or torpedo level. (under $10) the Hanging kit usually contains just the wires and hooks, but you need a small spirit level for hanging pictures and shelves evenly. doesn't matter the brand they all work the same https://www.amazon.com/WilFiks-Leveling-Resistant-Different-Visibility/dp/B07M62GJYP/

Small tool boxes vary in quality. I don't know if this is for you or someone else. But don't buy anything unless it's a NAME BRAND, cheap metal tools bend and can break with too much torque. Even the Stanley line that Walmart sells isn't fabulous, but it's better than a nameless brand. I don't like SETS of tools, but you need to start someplace, buy GOOD tools one at a time, I love finding $$$ tools at thrift stores. https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-94-248-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/(i bought a cheap socket set 4 years ago to replace my stolen ones and they already have rust)

Bucket organizer. (around $15) If you buy a SET of tools, take the plastic blow molded container and put it in the recycling. You will never bother putting the tools back in and when you get more tools they won't fit. Bucket Organizers are pockets that fit around a 5 gallon bucket. You shove your tools into the pockets and everything else in the middle. And keep it in the bottom of your closet and carry it to where you need the tools. https://www.amazon.com/Bucket-Boss-10030-Bucketeer-BTO/dp/B00GK4TOWK

Tack Hammer. (under $15) You won't need a big 22 oz hammer, but a smaller 16 oz one with a normal handled and then a Tack hammer, these have a narrow head and sometimes are magnetic and hold the nail in place. Tack hammers are easier to use for hanging things exactly where you want them. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-54-304-5-Ounce-Magnetic-Hammer/dp/B00002X1XD

Stud finder.(under $20) uses a battery, and lets you know where the studs are behind drywall. BEST PURCHASE EVER. https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Stud-Finder-Wall-Detector/dp/B07VLDTVFQ/ any brand will work fine.

Digital Infared Thermometer (under $20) Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun - ALSO BEST PURCHASE EVER... works in the kitchen for food and oven temp, fridge temp, and for locating drafts and cold spots around doors and windows. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G

Toilet Plunger - the sort with the extra bit on the end. https://www.amazon.com/Get-Bats-Out-Plunger-Bathroom/dp/B00ODD5MD0 you do NOT want to be waiting around for someone to unblock your toilet. It may be disgusting but scoop out some of what's in the toilet before you start plunging, it's less disgusting than having to mop it off the floor. You want the plunger that makes a seal around the bottom.

BUCKET. (under $10) mine is constantly in use, i keep it in the tub and toss wet things into it. I have gone through EVERY TYPE on offer...I was so sick of plastic buckets, that warped and stained, where the handles ripped out. But the BEST and cheapest one I have ever found is a flat back duraflex bucket for watering horses. Not kidding. Made of a hard polyethylene these things are designed to be flung around and stepped on by 2000 lb animals. https://www.amazon.com/LITTLE-GIANT-Flat-Back-Dura-Flex-Plastic/dp/B000HHLHPS/ these are cheap if you buy them in a feed store, but even with the shipping on Amazon it is WELL WORTH the money. You will need a bucket when you empty the back of the toilet tank to change the flushing flapper or gasket, and you will need it when you empty the commode itself, if you have to change out the wax seal underneath.

Blanket hangers. (6 for $27) yeah this is obscure, but when I moved I lost a LOT of storage space. These saved my sanity. I use them to hang up quilts and sleeping bags in the back of the closet OFF SEASON. I also use them to hang blankets, sheets curtains and stuff once they come out of the laundry aren't quite dry. I didn't even know there was such a thing before now I wouldn't give them up. https://www.amazon.com/Stock-Your-Home-Comforter-Organization/dp/B00EUG51JU

Flashlight. ($30-50) I've written about these before. Until I bought a GOOD one, I had no idea how bad the others were. Cheap flashlights are great to have scattered about in the cellar, or in the junk drawer. but if you really want TO SEE, get a great flashlight. I gifted myself one for christmas one year and I love it. It hangs by the door and if I am going to be out very late or the weather is bad, I shove it in my bag. It will also illuminate Well past the end of the porch and into the yard if I hear a noise. https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Carded-SabreLite-Flashlight-Yellow/dp/B01CKAIYV4 any very good brand will do, but I found Maglites to be dangerously useless.

Lots of others have mentioned great projects, so let me give you a general overview of what you should know, and then you can tackle just about anything.

For every project:

• Watch youtube videos for whatever you want to do until you're pretty comfortable. Make sure the person looks professional. "This old house" is a great resource.
  
• ALWAYS take off jewelry and things like wallet chains. Wedding bands are especially notorious for electrical accidents or something awful called "Degloving." Google if you want to be horrified or have an iron stomach when looking at gore.
  
• Most projects are "Safe" if you know how to disengage and engage the shutoffs and what to watch out for.
  
• Assume whatever you're using is going to spread everywhere (sawdust) or get on things you'd never expect (spray foam on the nice rug 10' away). So cover them or move them.
  
  Electrical:
  
  
• Buy a non-contact voltage tester. It'll tell you if you're about to shock yourself or not. Check it every time you walk away and come back. I also put masking tape over breakers I'm working on just in case somebody walks by and decides it needs to be flipped.
  
• Always work with your right hand only (even if you're left handed). This is to keep a shock from traveling through your heart, which is on your left side of the body. Don't work on a wet/damp surface. Wear thick wool socks and shoes or boots with lots of rubber left on them.
  
  Plumbing:
  
  
• find your whole-house water shutoff, and the shutoffs (if they're there) for the sink or wherever else you're working.
  
• Also, if you do anything with compression fittings, under-tighten them (never over-tighten). Turn the water on (just a bit) and if it's dripping, do a quarter turn and wipe dry with a towel. Repeat until it's no longer dripping. If you overtighten them, they'll leak and you can't undo it without replacing the fitting. It took me 5 trips to Home Depot to learn this...
  
  General:
  
  
• Never climb a ladder without somebody else around. Always take the time to go down it, if you have to fiddle with changing drillbits or something, or have the helper-person take care of it (and hold the ladder when needed). It doesn't matter how good your ladder is, if you're pushing against a wall with a drill, you can easily destabilize yourself.
  
• Buy a deadman's switch that plugs in like an extension cord, and swap it to any saw or cutting device you are using (even the dremel). Alternatively, spend a few more bucks and get a variable speed foot pedal.
  
• Don't do anything you don't feel like you "know" enough to do, yet.
  
• Learn how blades buckle in saws, and about kickback, before using power saws.
  
• Use a GOOD stud detector before going into the wall. If you hit something hard and you aren't sure what it is, back the drill out and take a look. You could be hitting a water pipe, an electrical cable, or are just unlucky and hit a nail in the stud.
  
• Use goggles and hearing protection. Your ears don't feel pain. Power tools are louder and more damaging than they sound like.
  
• Working with chemicals? Use a gas mask (I like a full painter's mask that incorporates eye protection, because they don't fog like goggles can with a mask on).
  
• Working with dust, use a dust mask or gas mask.
  
• If you have gas mask, you have to seal the cartridges or they go bad fast.
  
• Go to Walmart (because it's much cheaper) and buy a gallon of their solvents before working with chemicals. Know which solvent works on what. Buy low VOC mineral spirits (if available), and acetone. Mineral spirits is going to be for exterior/oil paints, shellacs, and stains. Acetone is going to be for spray foam, certain adhesives, etc. Get an empty tin can with a lid for storing the "used solvent." Btw, I reuse my solvent several times, basically as a "prewash." The sediment falls to the bottom.
  
• If you're working with something creating sparks (angle grinder) be aware of where those sparks are flying, have a nearby fire extinguisher, and if you can, dampen the area first (like mop your garage floor). Angle grinders combined with dust, sawdust, and/or scrap wood has started fires.
  
• If working with oil based products/mineral spirits, learn how to properly dispose of things like brushes and rags, they can spontaneously combust if left in a heap!
  
• Be aware that on high-end drills, there's a button that can lock them into "always on" mode.
  
  Tool List
  
  
• Non-contact voltage tester (and other useful items)
  
• 3M Full Face Gas Mask There's cheaper chinese knockoffs. You have to buy cartridges (get a set for dust and at least one set for VOC - aka gasses like mineral spirits and ammonia)
  
• Variable Speed Foot Pedal Can be used like a deadmans switch by fully depressing.
  
• Water/leak alarms for peace of mind or sudden failures
  
• Stud finder with live AC and metal detection
  
• Hearing Protection
  
• Goggles (observe where the vents are and if it looks like dust can easily fall into them) or just use the face mask
  
• Acetone
  
• Mineral Spirits
  
• Metal, lidded, disposal bucket. A paint bucket with a lid also works. Note that paint buckets are a different kind of plastic specifically made to resist solvents.
  
• A large pack of disposable gloves (make sure they aren't something you or a helper are allergic to, eg latex).
  
• Inspection Camera
  
  Projects to avoid as a beginner
  
  
• Major reconstruction (wall removal)
  
• Retaining walls over 1' tall
  
• HVAC
  
• Tile
  
• Traditional wood plank flooring (BUT engineered/click-lock is super easy)
  
• Plumbing that isn't compression fittings or threaded (aka, plex/sharkbite/welding)
  
• Anything on the roof
  
• Anything attached to the outside of your home (where you might inadvertently create leaks or rot in your exterior walls)
  
• Precise woodworking (altering your cabinets in your kitchen)
  
  Projects I'd always recommend hiring out
  
  
• Tile with real stone, metal or glass
  
• Granite anything
  
• Decks (probably, although make sure the deck builder knows how to properly attach to a house. 70% of decks in the USA aren't and are causing rot and damage)
  
• Structural engineering (wall removal/additions, tall retaining walls)
  
• Most HVAC
  
• Solid wood plank floor or refinishing. (Refinishing is possible, it's just a good 10 hours of work per 50 sqft, or more, super dusty, and makes the house pretty unlivable. Easy to screw up. Best to get an experienced pro in to do it quickly).
  
• Anything near your "mains" that feed into your breaker-box (the part coming from the electrical company). Such as replacing the breaker box itself.
  
  Home improvement is very satisfying and not all that hard. Most people have a story of being lazy once or twice and having a near accident. I've been shocked by 120v (like in your wall)... twice. I've had saw blades break. Just be safe for that 5% of the time you're using something dangerous, and never get too lazy to grab the safety gear.

Assuming you had an inspection done you really don't have any tests to do as they all should already have been done. (Toxins in paint and such)

Locate your main water valve, main gas valve and meter, and breaker panel. Just so you know where they are. Open breaker panel, identify which breaker controls what. Hopefully they are marked.

Get a pair of bolt cutters. I've used mine many times for random jobs around the house. Speaking of tools, a basic $100 toolset comes in handy all the time and you'll never regret investing in a quality battery powered drill.

Change the code to the garage door opener.

Change locks on doors.

Take a lot of "before" pics. It's fun to look back and see how much your home has changed.

Look into rebates that are offered by your local utility companies ( electricity and gas). They'll usually give you free LED light bulbs, or great deals on random things like that. And where I live they'll even come out and do different audits for free to make sure things are running smoothly in your home.

Look into Sonic Internet in your area. I've heard good things about them lately.

Home improvement can quickly become overwhelming. Expect to get overwhelmed. Then expect to get inspired again.

Back to tools, get a quality stud finder. Not a hyped up beeping led one. Just a solid magnet one. Like this one. http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451979365&sr=1-1&keywords=stud+finder

Before you attempt to fix something, always just check out a video or two on YouTube. They will point out things like why you should not over tighten the bolts on your toilet. (I learned that one the hard way). Since then I always try to watch a video before fixing something. They will usually point out safety things and other "gotchas" that you should be aware of.

Can't think of much else right now. Good luck and congrats!

Command strips is definitely the way to go, but I find for some things the piece of it that holds the item is too big and fat for some things.

Nailing is an art. The first thing you would do is get a stud finder to make sure you're nailing something into a board and not just your wall and air. Your wall can hold most light things but if it's something like a heavy mirror or even a heavy picture frame you definitely need to find a stud. This stud finder is magnetic and will find the nail in the stud.

Then you would want to get your drill with a drill bit that is smaller than the nail is. Drill a hole into the wall just slightly downward, or just go straight it if you're not confident with your angles. Only drill in a couple inches. Do not try to drill or nail right where the stud finder found the nail, considering that there is already a nail there. Up and down the entire length of the wall where the stud finder sticks to is fair game to nail things, and there should be another stud every X feet or so (it depends).

Now you can hammer your nail in, just go easy with nice even soft strokes. And hold the hammer all the way up by the metal part for accuracy.

This all probably sounds tedious for this one project, but if you plan on hanging up more and more things it's a good idea to practice your household handiness. good luck!

It's not too terribly difficult, honestly. I enjoy it. There's a bunch of ways, but here's some tips that I have figured out.

• Label your cable ends (either use a label maker or just get one of these booklets).
  
• Two people make it go more than twice as fast. Buy pizza for a friend.
  
• Leave the cable box at the source, pull cable to the destination.
  
• Get a set of fish sticks for sending wire down/up walls. Buy a couple of rolls of electrical tape, too, for taping wire to the fish sticks.
  
• Measure to the same height as the electrical outlets in the wall for a clean look. Get the same color faceplates and keystone jacks as the electrical system already has.
  
• Make sure you use a stud finder with AC electrical alerting before you cut.
  
• When you are ready to cut a hole in the wall, take a wall box eliminator, flip it backwards, and trace the inside with pencil. Then cut with a utility knife. I find that a dremel saves time but creates a LOT of dust, and really isn't that much easier.
  
• Pull the cable (or fish stick) through until you've got a good 2-3 feet sticking out of the wall. If you think you're EVER going to need more than one jack in this room, run it now (it is easier to buy two boxes of cable than one, and run two cables simultaneously).
  
• Put the wall box eliminator in the wall, and fold the tines back / screw the holders in (they all basically have some mechanism of "grabbing" the wall, to give you a hole in the wall with the two faceplate screw holes like an electrical wall box has, but without the box - which is safe because it's low voltage (don't do this for real electrical work!!!))
  
• Cut off the first 6 inches or so of the cable with your dikes, because it might have been fucked up being taped to a fish stick and rammed through the wall, etc.
  
• Strip off the outer jacket of another 4-5 inches using your cyclops stripping tool.
  
• Terminate into the rj45 keystone jack using a punchdown tool.
  
• Even though, technically, as long as the jacks have the same wiring pattern on both ends, in America, we use EIA/TIA 568-B as our wiring standard. This will be displayed on the side of your RJ45 jack.
  
• In your wiring closet, leave a loop of 6 feet or so (for future upgrades/troubleshooting), and then terminate all the cable ends into a labeled patch panel.
  
• Pop your RJ45 jack into the keystone hole in the faceplate. (tab down, you don't want dust to settle into the wire contacts), and screw in your faceplate. Label it, if you can do so and it looks nice ("Living Room 1", etc) so it corresponds to the patch panel in the basement/closet/etc.
  
  Congrats, you've run a cable! It's female at both ends, so you can just use a patch cable to run from the wall to your PC, and from the patch panel to your switch, to your modem/router, etc. This wire is now a part of the infrastructure of your house - you won't have to cut anything out when you leave, you just unplug the wires and leave the infrastructure for the next person.
  
  Hope this helps.

If you have about $60 you could just buy them and have some tools that will serve you well as a renter and then you could help out your friends (and maybe get free beers or food off them).

I think you mean a stud finder.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/

It's less than ten bucks.

An adjustable wrench is about the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-23002-6-Inch-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B00FFUPS98/

For a cordless rechargeable you're talking about $40 for this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-Variable-Position-Masterworks-MW316/dp/B07CR1GPBQ/


I know you said borrow, but if you're renting it's good to have some basic tools for stuff like this and it's an investment to be honest. If you honestly can't get anyone to help, I already have the stud finder (metal detector), and wrench. It would be an excuse for me to finally get a drill. Let me know if nothing else works out.

There's kinda one like that.

Just to be clear, I have absolutely no idea if it's any good, please do your research before you buy one!

https://www.amazon.com/Walabot-Imager-Android-Smartphones-Compatible/dp/B06Y29NXKK

If it works as advertised, it should help with routing. You won't be able to just point it upwards, but you should be able to look at a given segment of wall, make sure it's clear, and then go upstairs to the corresponding segment of wall and do the same. Repeat until you've found a suitable path through all stories.

Please note that unless your house is an ancient deathtrap, there will be firebreaks between the floors that you'll have to drill through (be sure to use fire-rated foam to seal it back up!) regardless, so don't worry too much about finding a place with no top or bottom plates that you have to get through. Those should be everywhere.

You might be able to find walls above you by looking at the joists through the ceiling, but I imagine that'll take some practice. You might have better luck using a measuring tape and drawing a very accurate floorplan.

1. Buy a good stud finder, it can detect other stuff as well, and check for clearance. This is the best and easiest to use stud finder I have ever used. Here
   
   
2. If you have the proper clearance, then cut the wall with a drywall hand saw.
   
   
3. Use some 2x4 or whatever cheap wood you have available to nail the support beam. You can easily shoot a nail at an angle to connect it between 2 studs. Do the bottom support and top as well.
   
   
4. Install the cabinet and secure it with screws. You really only need 4 screws. 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Or if you're flush the the studs on the side, you can screw it to the side. That's the easiest route.
   
   
5. Now finish it with drywall joint compound to fill the gaps. Then caulk the gaps. Paint.
   
   Now if you don't have the clearance. Your only way to do it is is to build a frame around it so you hide the unfinished part. But personally, I'd just get another one that's in in-wall.

the buy it for life crowd will always argue for superior quality and buying a good tool. However another random redditor once summarized a different pragmatic:
"Buy a cheap tool, if it does the job you win. If you use it enough to break it you now are justified on buying the good version that might last you a lifetime."
I love harbor freight for economy cheap hand tools.

My exception is buy a good drill/driver. My current house might be close to 50% held together by work from my Milwaukee at this point.

Other tools no one mentioned that will come in handy: Outlet tester/live circuit detector, A stud finder, a set of allen wrenches.

If you're willing to spend some money and you think you'll have more use for a good stud finder that actually works, get one of these.

I went through several finders in my 1940 brick colonial before finally trying the Franklin. I love that thing. It's not magic, but it finds so many studs that no others could. Just the way it lets you visualize the object it's detecting is immensely helpful in quickly determining whether you've got a false positive.

I can't promise you it'll help you sort out that wood paneling wall. But if any finder can detect the studs, it's the Franklin.

Good luck!

Not really. I have a Zircon, not sure of the model number but I'll get it to you when I get home. It's definitely the best one I've ever used, but as far as things go that's like being the smartest kid with Downs Syndrome. It's also super cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-Pro-SL-Deep-Scanning/dp/B000KL7TG2/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416506428&sr=1-5&keywords=zircon+stud+finder There's a pricier brand out there called Franklin that some people rave about but they're worthless for plaster.

Thanks for the reply! Using a studpop to locate studs.

So I can't screw anchors into that metal drywall corner correct?

And you're saying I can use toggle bolts wherever on the wall even if there isn't a stud? That's awesome. The shades are a bit heavy but I'm not going to be putting my weight on them. So if I can just put those anchors in anywhere I'd be pretty satisfied with that as a solution. Also as a sidenote, I also ordered this. There's nothing in here that can freely support the curtains and curtain rod right?

If you are driving alot of screws get a good driver with Torx or square bits. Phillips or flat head screws should be outlawed.

I have tons of 18 volt tools. But 90% of the time I use my 12 volt stuff. It is lighter and plenty strong enough for most all jobs I throw at it.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tools-2598-22-Hammer/dp/B077ZXR2GN/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=milwaukee+m12+fuel&qid=1563798041&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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Get a good tool bag, To keep all your tools organized.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DG5543-Inch-Tradesmans-Tool/dp/B001P30BO6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dewalt+tool+bag&qid=1563036747&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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This little screwdriver is my most used electrical tool.

It will take off a faceplate in seconds without scratching it.

https://www.amazon.com/Interchangeable-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-67100/dp/B003FC75YE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=klien+screwdriver+fast&qid=1563037724&s=gateway&sr=8-7

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This works great also.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-9-IN-1-RATCHET-BIT-DRIVR/dp/B07N2XRJKN/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3S4QWUWTNOHH0&keywords=milwaukee+ratchet+screwdriver&qid=1563797885&s=gateway&sprefix=milwauke+ratchet+%2Caps%2C216&sr=8-5

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These work great as stud finders, not sure how they build your houses but in america we have 2x4 wooden studs behind our walls every 16-24". This is a strong magnet that finds the studs by finding the screws that attach the drywall to the wooden studs.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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If you are moving any water lines or doing any plumbing look in to Pex, It is very easy to do and you can same alot of plumbing costs.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-Crimper-Stainless-Clamps/dp/B019DPYQZM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=LGQIZBR2PEXY&keywords=pex+crimping+tool&qid=1563798123&s=gateway&sprefix=pex+crimp%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-4

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If you are moving your toilet, look in to a wall mount. They are very modern and save you a lot of room.

Do yourself a solid and buy a stud finder. The magnet kind is too cheap not to. This one at Amazon is $7 and is great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479919614&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=magnetic+stud+finder

Also, it's smart to double check what your finder tells you before actually trying to screw anything. I usually use a finish nail to probe the spot and be sure that there is actually a stud where I think there is. You never know what craziness is going on behind drywall and if you were wrong, it's super easy to repair a finish nail hole.

Good luck!

Start small, do your homework, think the project through and then just do it! You will definitely make some mistakes, but see it as the price of learning to DIY. Just try and avoid potentially dangerous situations...

• Get a "stud finder" (something like this) to help you avoid drill holes in electrical conduits, water- or gas pipes.
  
• Use safety glasses and hearing protection whenever using power tools (or even striking tools like hammers and chisels).
  
• Wear a mask when creating dust and be weary of breathing in airborne particles. Some types (i.e. asbestos or even mold) can cause severe health issues.
  
• Whenever using a new tool, substance or material, be sure to read (and follow!) the instructions. Especially regarding ventilation, fire, etc.
  
• Stop working when you are tired, or mistakes will be made.
  
• Measure twice. Always.
  
• When in doubt, ask.
  
• Don't be too hard on yourself. If it looks good from a few feet away, it is good enough.
  
• It is good to have someone else around when you are working. Just in case things go horribly wrong.
  
• Be careful when using ladders, etc. Make sure you are steady. Doubly so when using power tools. NEVER stretch or reach when using power tools. And for the love of God, make sure you work piece is properly secured before applying any tool.
  
• Use your common sense and good luck!

Assuming it's mounted to an inside wall, it's probably not insulated, meaning it's extremely easy to feed the wires inside the wall.

Using a keyhole saw, cut a small hole behind the monitor. I suggest using a stud finder with A/C detection to make sure you're not cutting into a stud or wires. Then cut another hole somewhere directly below that hole and just run the wires in one and out the other. It's super easy. You can get nice bezels to make the holes look pretty too:

keyhole saw

stud finder

bezel

YMMV but I have one of these, and while it definitely will magnetize itself to a screw you have to have faith that the people who put up your drywall got all the screws nicely into the middle of the stud. The people who built my house definitely didnt. The studs arent all perfectly 16 inches on centre either. After using this while mounting a large tv and putting a bunch of unnecessary holes in our walls to find the studs we bought a sensor one it made sense for us to pay the extra for peace of mind because we were renovating and hanging a bunch of heavy things though

• Metal locking cabinet
  
  
• Stud Finder
  
  
• Some lag screws with washers
  
  Use the stud finder to locate a stud in your wall (closets can be a good place), mark it above the top of the safe. Take your safe, find the holes in the back (or drill some) Mark the top of the safe in line with the holes in the back. Line up both marks, getting the safe as close to the wall as possible (you might need to put it up on some plywood if there is a kicker board). Drive the bolts into the stud anchoring it in place.
  
  This is easy to remove and patching 4 or 5 screw holes in drywall is something that most apartment dwellers will be doing anyway.

As little as possible. The more crap you have, the more it weighs you down.
That said, every home needs some necessities to get by. For me those generally involve cooking, sleeping, and repairs. I just finished watching Parks & Rec and am in a bit of a Ron Swanson mood.

For the kitchen (all recommended by America's Test Kitchen):

Victorinox 8" Chef's Knife

Victorinox Paring knife

CDN Instant Read Thermometer

Lodge 12" skillet - cheap and will last you forever

Crockpot, 6qt - the one kitchen appliance I'd cheat with. Easy delicious meals. Toss in a cheap cut of meat (chuck roast, etc), salt, pepper, garlic, onions, carrots, whatever. Let it sit for 6-8 hours. Dinner for 3 meals.

Tools:

I'd probably just pick up a cheap set of craftsman stuff (screwdrivers, hammer, sockets, pliers). Splurge on the ratchet and any power tools you need:

Bahco 3/8" ratchet - same as snapon F80 at 1/2 the price

Other misc. tools that are quite handy:

Magnetic stud finder - in a new place you're going to be hanging pictures, installing shelving, and mounting curtain rods. These are dirt cheap and super convenient.

Multimeter - Flukes will last you for life. If you need to do any electrical work, these are great. If you don't want to splurge up front just borrow them or buy a cheap $15 one at home depot.

Bedroom:

Get comfortable pillows and nice sheets. Don't get all caught up in the 1000 thread count crap, it's a hoax. Just get at least 400tc or so, and preferably egyptian or pima cotton. My favorite sheets are actually a super cheapo brand that are 60% cotton 40% polyester. I prefer them because they feel more "smooth and cool" rather than "soft and warm".

Obviously get real furniture: dresser, bed with headboard, etc.

Electronics

I won't go into too much detail here, but consider cutting the cord (/r/cordcutters).

A cheap Roku3 + netflix + an OTA antenna can go a long way.

If you have a lot of pictures/media/etc, don't forget about backups. I'd look into an inexpensive NAS, or at least a USB harddrive. They are dirt cheap and worth the insurance.

Insurance

Lastly, don't forget renters or homeowners insurance. If you are renting, you can get rather good coverage for quite cheap. I just paid around $50 for 12 months of coverage on my apartment ($15k coverage, $1k deductible). I shopped around at 5 different places and Amica came out the cheapest by FAR.

Other than that, you don't need much. Buy less crap. Don't buy some $50 automatic electronic wine opener when a $1 wine key will do the job. Same for a can opener.

I have tried tons of different stud finders and magnets. The magnets do work, but I found a stud finder that works from Amazon and is the best money I have ever spent in my new house and there is a coupon to save 10% right now on it:

Stud Finder Wall Scanner - 4 in 1 Electronic Stud Sensor Wall Detector Wood Beam Finders Center Finding with Battery and LCD Display for Wood AC Wire Metal Studs Detection (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HF92JMR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GrGSCbEEEP281

Thanks for the diagram, that's interesting.

This studfinder uses super strong magnets to detect the screws/nails, and actually sticks to them through the drywall. It's this thing. Seems to work great.. and that's the only spot it picks up any metal.

The chances are very very small, but if you'd like peace of mind, get a stud finder that detects ac voltage. Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HTFHOEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KUbSBbA5Y5XNR

I purchased this guy .. but it wasn’t of much use to me.
I’m so terrified of not cutting in between the two studs and having a huge chunk missing. Do you have any specific videos to recommend?

Thank you so much for your help!

I recently bought a magnetic stud finder that runs purely on a pair of magnets rather than battery. I run it in an 'S' shape across my wall and it sticks to certain areas.

Now here's the problem: What do I even do with that information? I want to hang some heavier things up (say, a mirror or something) and as far as I know you're supposed to hammer into the stud but like... if the stud finder is attaching to the metal in the frame then won't me hammering a nail into it endanger the frame? Wouldn't I be clanking right into the metal already in there? What if the thing I'm hanging needs to be attached to more than one stud and they're not close enough?

Should I mark an inch below / above / next to the spot that the stud finder attached to? How am I supposed to know that that's still part of the frame?

Ftr, this is the stud finder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/

I'm sure this is all supposed to be very obvious... google seems to think so since I can't find any real resources aside from 'stud finders help you find studs'.

Thank you!

I'm assuming you have drywall with wood studs. All you really need is the wall mount, a drill, and a stud finder. A pencil would be useful aswell for marking stuff out.

You'll need to locate your wall studs. You can do this using a basic stud finder. Use the stud finder to locate and mark a stud close to where you want the screen to be. You might not get it exactly where you want it because studs are only placed every so often, 16" on center is common. Then after your sure a stud is there (I always knock on the wall and listen to double check) you can start to mount it. You'll need to buy the actual mount. I use this basic wall mount for one of my screens and it is quite adjustable. Align the wall mount along the stud to where you want it then drill pilot holes for the screws. After you drill the pilot holes just screw the mount in. Try pulling on it a bit just to make sure its stable and secured into the stud. Then (if you bought the mount I linked) you just screw the plate into the back of your monitor and slide it in. If all goes well it should be mounted solidly to the wall.

+2 on this... These are great and the HDMI cable is nice... I also recommend the Magnet Stud Finder... I have one of these and love it... It sticks to the drywall screws used to hang drywall to the studs and hasn't failed me yet...

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408654238&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+stud+finder

From the pic it's hard to tell what those walls are made out of but I still wouldn't chance just putting it anywhere and hoping for the best. Suspect that it's not the answer you want to hear but the right answer is to buy a decent studfinder. Seems like a lot for just this project but if you own a house you will use it again in the future.

The low tech route is to tap your knuckle against the wall and listen for the solid spots.

Love my Franklin.

https://www.amazon.ca/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=stud+finder&qid=1558914670&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Two downsides: battery cover could be redesigned as it can come loos pretty easily, does not indicate live power.

Buy this Franklin Sensors stud finder or something higher, nothin lower. You will have it for life. I own one and it's the tits.

Also buy a roll of paper drywall tape. That mesh stuff is crap. You need to rebuild those holes with paper and gypsum (spackle). Any will due.

Clean holes with stiff bristle brush. Try to save any chunks that have intact, contiguous paper that are flapping around, they will increase strength.

Fill, mud and tape. Let dry. Light wet sand (wet dish rag). Let dry. Mud again if you see edges. Let dry. Wet sand. Dry sand. Paint. Dry times are 24 hours to be safe.

It is the only way!

Reference: Parent of 2 children under 5.

For the future, grab one of these stud finders. Run it along the wall and it will hang on the screw heads that were used to secure the drywall. Also works great in lathe and plaster houses. It's really just a strong magnet.

OMGOMGOMGOMGOMG. Best $10 I ever spent. I love this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

I was a telecom installer/electrician for many years, and none of that "we'll just run the phone wire under the carpet/staple along the baseboard" nonsense. My boss was insistent about putting wire inside walls. Over the years we'd tried just about every stud finder available. The classic Zircon is about as good as they get... but that's not saying much. They work fine with drywall of uniform thickness, but if you're looking at older mortar/plaster on lathe or button-board walls, forget it. Believe it or not, the stud finder we used most often was a 10 inch piece of stainless steel spring/piano wire, .030" diameter I think, though maybe larger. Basically the smallest we could securely grip with the cordless drill chuck. Clip and file the end into a roughly symmetrical spear point, and run it into the wall where you intend to install a box or MPLS ring, or where you intend to anchor something to a stud. Most studs are 16" on center, so you can guesstimate a likely starting point by measuring from the corner of the room. We used that plus the Zircon to choose our starting point. If you're installing wire and hit a void, you start sawing a hole for your box/MPLS. If you hit wood and want to anchor, drill again 1/2" in either direction to find the stud center and anchor. Now, if you hit a stud and want empty wall, or hit empty wall and want a stud, start drilling more holes horizontally, about every 3/4" until you find what you want. The advantage of drilling with thin piano wire is that it's trivially easy to fill the tiny holes.

I have a Zircon I picked up on Amazon for pretty cheap. Nothing fancy, but has worked pretty well so far.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW

Ya I love this guy and this stud finder. Made an amazing doggy door through my wall to the side of the house for a dog potty area, only took a couple days with the right tools.

I just put this one up last weekend for my 55". I don't know if you desire articulating though, but IMHO, it folds flat enough that the articulating is just a bonus. Everything was in the kit for hardware. I know you said 60", but if it meets for weight, I'd go ahead.

https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Dream-MD2413-MX-Articulating-400x400mm/dp/B00KXTZ3BE/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478532173&sr=1-13&keywords=articulating+wall+mount


You might want to stop at the hardware store first and pick up a magnetic stud finder before ordering a mount - they are like $5-10, and handy to have if you ever want to hang anything else (shelf, large picture).
https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479314795&sr=1-1&keywords=magnetic+stud+finder

You can get a little magnetic stud finder on amazon for like $10. Definitely worth it, you’ll use it a million times for hanging artwork and shelves. Like someone else said, use it to locate drywall nails and get an idea of where the joist runs, then screw a hook into the joist. You can also knock along the drywall and listen for when the sound is more solid—less hollow—to get an idea. Any reasonably sized hook with a screw end should be fine for a plant.

Edit: this is the stud finder : stud finder

I really like this finder, it's cheap, easy to use, and accurate. Just make sure you use a fresh 9v Zircon StudSensor Pro SL Edge Finder Deep-Scanning Stud Finder with SpotLite Pointing System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KL7TG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KwDjDbCSJY23J

My studfinder is shit. My old boss had a seriously nice one for about $60 that had ~12 LED's that would light up in succession around a stud (mine was $15 and had a wildly inaccurate single LED).

Still, find an outlet, measure 16" from one side and start knocking. Then punch a bunch of skinny nails through in 1/4" increments wherever it feels solid. If you're gonna mount a TV in your apartment, a few tiny nailholes (especially in a row that are super easy to spackle over) aren't gonna ruin your deposit. Then pull 16" from that nailhole and there should be another stud. I've hung 6 tv's in the last 5 years, it's not rocket science.

Edit: it's actually only $50 on Amazon ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bRYxzbDXXJHSW

I have some experience with this.

1. Get a good stud finder. Most won’t work with lathe and plaster. This one does for my house. Your mileage may vary so buy from somewhere with an easy return policy:
   https://www.amazon.com/Franklin-Sensors-FS710PROProSensor-Professional-Finder/dp/B0195K8OT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519272814&sr=8-4&keywords=ProSensor%2B710&th=1
   
   (Sometimes available at Costco)
   
   
2. Get a mounting bracket than will span between two studs.
   
   
3. Buy good lag screws (not too thick as your tv isn’t that heavy) vs. the typically crappy ones that come with the bracket. Something that looks like this (not necessarily these exactly):
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074ZMZMT9/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b16qtJ_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=J14PERT8ZSKA9GRZVC1H&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=c0cdc314-6aee-50c9-b0bb-83f1e9593841&pf_rd_i=1640962
   
   
4. Mark where the bolts will go on the wall and predrill.
   
   
5. Mount the bracket using the screws but don’t overtighten as that will crack the plaster.
   
   Good luck.

Stud Finder Sensor Wall Scanner - 4 in 1 Electronic Stud Sensor Beam Finders Wall Detector Center Finding with LCD Display for Wood AC Wire Metal Studs Joist Detection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F6RZM43/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bERzDb3GP0FKD

This one is rated pretty high.

EDIT: Ok, I’ll get a manual one or use a magnet! Seems like no one likes these electronic ones.

I've gone through at least a dozen stud finders over the years, from cheap to expensive, and the one I've liked best is the Franklin 710

Magnetic stud finders are slightly better than guessing. they don't find studs, they find screws/nails that should be in the stud...but you don't know if it's centered, barely in one side or the other, or missed the stud completely.

I use a Franklin
https://www.amazon.ca/Franklin-Sensors-ProSensor-710-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG

Which is very similar. Best and easiest stud finder I've ever used.

Only problem is that it is always going off whenever I walk by. :). Lol.

Wall stud detectors, at least the one I have, are Neodymium magnets in plastic frame. Great at finding nails in the wall and since I already have this one, no need to purchase one. Very useful.

Use a powerful magnet to locate the nails in the wall. When you find a vertical row of nails that is where the stud is.

This one is awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=magnet+stud+finder&qid=1554615529&s=gateway&sr=8-3

OMG she is sooooo cute! This pinterest may have some cool ideas for you. I think you could get away with putting shelves up, even in a rental. You'd just need to make sure you have one of these to find the studs!

> better luck with a magnet to find studs

This little guy is my go-to stud finder. The only electronic studfinder I've used that wasn't garbage was a $90 model. It was still only ok.

Honestly I've tried a bunch of different stud finders with bad results like you indicated. I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY a few years back and have never missed a stud for anchoring or cutting in new electrical boxes.
The magnet method works good as well. My pops used to use it with a little device like this one https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Stanley-47-400-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B002YCSIJC

• Just buy some pre-made patch cables you can get them in all sorts of pretty colors for $12.99 for 150 foot cable on Amazon.
  
  
• Buy one of these: 3-foot long wood auger bit
  http://www.westwayelectricsupply.com/irwin-1890751-flexible-installer-wood-auger-tip-1-2-x-36.html
  
  
• And one of these: push-pull rod kit and a fish-tape:
  http://www.pushpullrods.com/
  http://www.techtoolsupply.com/Wire-Installation-Tools-Push-Pull-Rods-Glow-Rods-s/530.htm
  
  
• and of course with a drywall saw, you can cheat by cutting holes in the drywall then putting some of these in places like inside closet walls...
  http://www.lowvoltagecables.com/blank-wall-plate-white.html?
  
  http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7013
  
  www.all-wall.com/Categories/USG-Sheetrock-Drywall-Tools/Sheetrock-Tools-Jab-Saw.html?
  
  
• Also some of these tools are handy:
  
  
  Stud finder with AC wire locator
  https://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY
  
  
• non-contact voltage detector
  http://www.jensentools.com/fluke-1ac-a1-ii-non-contact-voltage-detector/p/433-973
  
  I've installed dozens of cameras, and many ethernet jacks, both for myself and for some friends and even a couple of business installs. Its not difficult, you just need to figure out where to drill.
  
  
  
  
  
  

I'll second this - I have this one,which works really well and has definitely saved me some time and headache.

It's pricey but this is the best stud finder.
https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=bf+franklin+stud+finder&qid=1574111544&sr=8-2-fkmr0

I've had studfinders like yours and had the the same issues. I recently bought this one and it works really well. Also lights up multiple lines, which makes it easy to find the center.

ProSensor T6 Professional Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LF2BRY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Rare earth magnets work great, they latch on to nails/screws. Find one, then slide it up to find another above, and down to find another below, and you can be sure you're on a stud.

I have one of these, and it's never led me astray:

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1416347164&sr=1-1&keywords=stud+finder

> Get these magnetic stud finders, rather than wasting money on an electronic stud finder. I own like 4 electronic stud finders, and none of them work as well as these.

This electronic stud finder is quite possibly the best one I've ever used: https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496427688&sr=1-8&keywords=stud+finder

Thanks for this! Never thought there was a better way to find the studs.

Said in the pigs voice on Toy Story 2 "50 bucks ain't bad!"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0064EICKG?vs=1

That's a cute toy.

If you want to find the center of the stud every time, however, you want one of these. Worth its weight in fine uncut Peruvian cocaine.

Honestly a really good magnet, finds the nails that attach the lathe. I think I have this one

Have you tried a strong magnet to find the nails in the studs? Something like this might work http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408676127&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+stud+finder

I use one of these for marking studs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_acpCzbE82Y34Q

Another comment said fiberglass fishing sticks, I use those extensively (cable installer) as well as using fish tape when you need something more flexible

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_vepCzbK7AKCQF

Drilling up from the bottom is probably best, just take your time to scout out power lines and studs so you don't hit anything unexpected. Something I do whenever I cut in new outlets is cut the drywall first and stick a light in the hole, drill (everything is attics in SW Florida) and see if I can see the light. It's better to drill a couple times than cut extra holes in the drywall.

This is what I use and it would definitely be strong enough to get through 2" of drywall.

Get a new stud detector. Even if you spend $50, I guarantee you it will pay off in saving your sanity by getting one like this or even better that senses any electrical or plumbing behind the wall: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8XSYBbQTVG65E

I have one of these and I love it, it's never been wrong.

http://youtu.be/IkaEXgSiFfQ

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0064EICKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1416365966&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Do you guys really not use Franklin 710's? They are awesome, you can even put it right over a stud, turn it on and it won't freak out. It uses multiple sensors instead of one, so it compares the relative density readings of the different sensors in one place, instead of finding a stud based on relative density from one sensor changing with movement. Plus it shows both edges of the stud at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG?keywords=stud+finder&qid=1540825376&sr=8-9&ref=sr_1_9

If you don't use that, go with magnets. Nothing else it worth the money.

I got this thing. Works like a champ.

This stud finder works AMAZING and they have it at Costco for $35

http://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/

Best one that I know of... I use it all the time, very accurate!

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GR7aAbYG0R3YB

the best stud finder ever

• this is NOT a risky click 😉

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427123016&sr=8-1&keywords=magnet+stud+finder

I like it a lot better than most electronic versions. Also, you could just buy the magnets and make one yourself.

I own a few of these personally. Great tool!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405916887&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Magnet stud finders will never steer you wrong. Excellent little gizmo.

Try to get something like this
ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KFUgzbKCDT8VR

Saved me a lot of time.

Yeah, mostly likely just inaccurate readings.

I'm guessing you're using a standard stick-style stud finder.

Ditch it and get a Franklin. They're far more accurate (especially in older homes with thick plaster/gypsum) and intuitive to use.

Cheers.

I have this one and it works pretty well.

It sounds like you need a stud finder with a deep scan function for thicker walls. Beyond that the models with an LCD screen like this one for $30 tend to be easier to use for actually finding the center of the stud.

Came here to say this, this was my best purchase all summer 👍 CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Best $ I've spent: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

I love my magnetic one.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3sVmzbJCQXF08

this here is the best stud finder I've ever used.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1382644668&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Best 25 bucks I've spent as a home owner. stud finder

I have this and it works great to more visibly see the stud

https://www.amazon.com/Franklin-Sensors-FS710PROProSensor-Professional-Finder/dp/B0195K8OT4/

I would recommend using a magnetic stud finder. They allow you to find where the drywall screws are. Once you find a screw with it, move it vertically to find at least 2 other screws to verify it's just not a stray screw. This is the one I use regularly.

Then you can mount directly into the stud.

You could also use toggler snaptoggle anchors if the studs don't line up quite where you want the mounts to be. I use these very often for monitor mounting. The drywall is plenty strong enough. These do require a 1/2" hole to be drilled, however. So keep that in mind if you will be having to patch them later.

Tap on the wall with your knuckle and listen for the difference in sound, good stud finders can be had for fairly cheap as well.


ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aw4Dyb0DQVVAB

Got this one, been extremely happy with it: https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_3

There are such things as magnetic stud finders. They are amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3d25xbSTG6N7P

I have been using this one for years, with great success. It stows inside my drill case like a James Bond gadget (From Russia With Love). I have never used an electronic stud finder. The only problem I have had with this one is when I find metal studs, but I have since learned how to deal with them.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

Thanks for the heads up. This is arguably a better product (it has a level built-in) at a cheaper price: https://smile.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/

StudBuddy is USA-made, however. This comes from China.

I used to rent a 95 year old home with plaster and lath. The studpop was a godsend.

Studpop Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRI5TMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FJ3xzbJ5WAY5Q

Electronic stud finders are cheap, and they're not limited to detecting nails/screws. They tell you exactly where the stud begins and where it ends.

This is the exact model I have, and I've had it for almost 20 years. If you're about to move, get one. If you like home improvement projects, get one. If you like blinking toys, get one.

edit: holy shit this one is awesome, if a bit pricey.

Buy a https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498578785&sr=8-1&keywords=franklin+prosensor+710

The stud finder you are using detects the change in density, which can be the edge of a stud or various other things. If you have textured walls, just moving it over the surface can give you a false positive. The prosensor checks across the entire width and gives you a visual indication of the where the stud is. There is apparently one at Cosco (Kirkland branded) that runs about $35.

The thing is life changing, particularly if you are moving to a new place.

The weird part is that it definitely sticks (the magnetic stud finder) to the corners. Both concave corners (ie-the regular corners of a 4 sided room) and the convex corners (ie- like a hallway corner)....don't know if convex and concave are the proper terms.

So, it can find SOME nails through whatever material is on there. Just not ANYWHERE on the wall itself.

This is the best out there. Anything else will not be as reliable. And no batteries!

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343482450&sr=8-1&keywords=stud+finder

I have one of these and it works very well, Costco sells the same thing in blue for about $40. Not the cheapest thing out there but I'm happy with it. Just keep in mind if you have thick plaster or double drywall and stud finder is probably going to have trouble.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496872543&sr=1-7&keywords=stud+finder

Most of the time I use the CH Hanson mentioned by u/mikeperr or a rare earth magnet on a string and swing it like a pendulum.
If you are really into it and insist on determining the precise edge of every piece of framing (and fire blocking) the one gizmo I know works most of the time is the Franklin 710. I just never had any consistent luck with those zircon things.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG

Expensive, but this thing works extremely well.

Buy this along with your new tv, OK?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HTFHOEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HtUxzb4937R5H

For just finding studs, I find these to be better than any of the fancy ones: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG

10x better than any stud finder out there. You can get a blue rebadge at Costco for a lot cheaper

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_atL1BbHQFE6PJ

Best ever. Doesn’t do electrical, or much else, but it works! It’ll just stick to a nail once it finds one.

i wouldn't worry about drywall coming off the studs.. not even sure how this would happen.

game plan is sound. go for it. the only possible issue (and it's minor) is you could screw into an existing drywall screw, but the odds of this are almost 0. worst case is you screw 1/2" away.

but if you want to be absolutely sure, amazon sells these "stud-finders" that are just rare-earth magnets with a small level bubble. it finds studs by locating the drywall screws... nice little tool.

Well then today's your lucky day, ladies.

This is the correct answer. You need a stud finder, to find out where the wooden beams that support your wall are. Once you know where they run, that's where you put your nails/screws. Load bearing.

The Franklin is supposed to be good. I just use neodymium magnets myself. The last Bosch stud finder I used worked really well at detecting metal in the wall, but not wood.

This is by far the best one I've ever owned. Why, you ask? It's magnetic. None of that beeping crap that doesn't work half the time. This one is what you need.

The top selling stud finder on Amazon is just a magnet in a plastic holder.

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=zg_bs_553280_1

It looks like it.

I have one of these, it has been a life saver in a house with plaster and lath.

That isn't true at all. I can get away with a simple magnet and just use it to find a sheetrock screw.

Look at this stud finder on amazon -
CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mPogzb17D3WA9

4.5 out of 5 stars with over 7,000 reviews and only costs $9.99. Thing doesn't even require batteries.

I would tell people the exact opposite of what you said. Don't waste $30-40 on a stud finder when a $9 one will work just as well.

If we're going down the semi-DIY route, one of these can make life so much simpler when fixing things to walls and ceilings.

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405644578&sr=8-3&keywords=stud+detector

And also help you avoid hitting wires or pipes. Worth every penny imo.

I have this magnetic stud finder that works really well.

Edit: It was available for purchase when I first made my post and now it says it's unavailable.

Patience, padawan; I'm on my flight back as I type this!

You're going to want a second pair of hands regardless to hold stuff in place while you drill and tighten. I'm not sure what they mean by "two drywalls"; it sounds as though they layered it, but to my totally unprofessional self, that sounds silly.

16" apart ("on center" is the terminology used in construction) is standard for non-load-bearing studs, but you really can't trust it. Mine ended up ranging from 14" to 28" apart. Get a studfinder and mark them out; this one is super cheap, and works very well for metal studs.

Could you link me to or post an image of your mounting bracket? The primary reason I used plywood is that the bracket I got stupidly wasn't wide-enough to span even two studs. If you can hit at least two with yours, I'd say it's safe to forgo the plywood. That's true that the plywood is only visible from the side; unfortunately, my TV location causes that to be exposed (thanks, picky roommate >_>). If that's not a concern, I see no reason not to go ham and use the plywood.

The only potential issue with using 12 toggle bolts is that you'll have twice as many holes in the drywall to patch up when you eventually move out, but that's negligible.

I'm going to non-definitively say that there's no way your studs are 1" wide. That'd break compatibility with anything intended to use the standard size for wooden studs. But hey - finding the middle of a stud is what the studfinder's for!

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aMyRAbZN3XD11

It's a magnet. Foolproof. Which I need because I've never had much luck with the electronic ones.

Youtube will have plenty of examples. Make sure you find a stud to secure it to. This is my go to studfinder these days if you don't already have one: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406045775&sr=8-1&keywords=stud+finder

I just screwed one of these eye hooks to the bottom side of one of the upper shelves, then ran a lag bolt through the eye and into the stud behind the bookshelf. I did this in a couple spots, it will depend on how wide your bookshelf is as to how many you might decide to do. This is a particularly large bookshelf in my case and it goes all the way up to the ceiling. A good long wood screw would likely suffice in most cases. Also my bookshelf has an open back, you may need to do something slightly different if yours has an enclosed back on it, but you get the general gist of it.

You can use a (fairly strong neodymium) magnet to find the sheetrock screws they use to, well, hold up the sheetrock. If you find a couple of magnetic spots in a line, odds are a beam is there. They even make magnets encased in plastic for this exact purpose.

Disclaimer: I don't really know anything about the strapping /u/jerkfacebeaversucks was talking about, so the magnet may be fooled by that too.

I'm trying this one which I found recommended in another thread:

Zircon m40-FFP Handheld Electronic Metal Detector for Use on Dry Wall, Concrete, Plaster, Stucco and More with Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3oFPybX6HA6ZJ

I prefer this

I've had 100 dollar stud finders that couldn't do what this magnet does. They aren't terribly accurate and require batteries.

An $8.99 one on Amazon sized one: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

Franklin sensors are my personal preference.

Just hold the button and slide across the wall.
No other stud finder works as reliably or are as easy to use.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-T6-Professional-Stud-Finder/dp/B071LF2BRY/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504561130&sr=1-8&keywords=stud+finder

This https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6f8QDbTW0CFKP

Think of it less as a stud finder and more of a device that allows you to find metal on the other side of your drywall. A long, solid magnetic pull is a pipe. A vertical line of magnetic dots is a stud.

I swear by this one. http://amzn.com/B000IKK0OI It hasn't failed me yet.

This works beautifully it has a light coating on the back so you don't leave marks on the walls when you slide it around. Also, sweep diagonally when using it.

This one worked for me, it finds the nails in the stud.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_MRGpDbF3WC35Z

I use this magnetic stud finder: Totally Non-Risky Click I Swear

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

This one, it's just magnetic and does not have adjustable electronic sensors.

This is what I use in my old house: CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t5StDb0W5KXV8

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI I've used this for years and will never use anything else again... yea it's just a magnet

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

I got one of these from my brother in law for Christmas one year and it’s my go to stud finder now:

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lh7GDbK6PMJF5

I use this magnetic stud finder.

> Zircon stud finder

I am a very handy person and those things suck. Get a magnetic one and use the tip about outlets and you should be good.

E: I have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=stud+finder&qid=1558706765&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Here are the links without the referral tags:
Stud-finder and Fish Tape.

Try this type of stud finder.
https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

Stud finder, $10: https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1520539096&sr=1-4&keywords=stud+finder

I have only ever used the magnet based ones that are inexpensive. The magnets find the drywall nails which are only in the studs.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504558503&sr=1-4&keywords=stud+finder

There are actually stud finders made with rare earth magnets: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

I've used lots of fancy electric ones in the past. Nothing is more consistent than this cheap thing.

Here is the mobile version of your link

This is a tool you need! I switched from a traditional wall-irregularity finder to one of these and it leveled up my handyman skill.

Confirmed - verified purchaser:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the desktop version of your link

Stud finder dude.

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-Pro-SL-Deep-Scanning/dp/B000KL7TG2/ref=sr_1_7?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1414307284&sr=1-7&keywords=stud+finder

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KL7TG2/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468432673&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=studfinder

This is the one I use. It has settings for checking deeper.

I have a "deep reading" stud finder that worked wonders for finding studs behind thick plaster. It wasn't all that expensive either - this is what I have

Get one of these at Costco for ~$30 (their version is blue). Not only does it find studs instantly without having to move it around, but it shows you how thick they are.

https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG/

ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-pN5AbZCA8K2Q

I have this, it’s awesome.

This one works well

I have this one. Zircon MetalliScanner m40- FFP... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Buy this thing fam

Get a stud locator, then you'll know where the framing is.

A decent electronic stud finder

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F6RZM43/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I have

I even got sick of my Zircon studfinder's flakiness so I sprung for a $8 magnetic one and I dig it. It does take a lil longer because you need to hit on a screw/metal, but I still grab it before my electric one.

EDIT: This is the one on Amazon, which is not where I purchased it (local HD for me), but same product and price.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VYySCbNCT7D0D

If it’s some sort of mason board, they likely needed metal insets in the corners for sealing. This would cause the magnet to stick.

Another option... try an electric stud finder. They work off the same principle, but may have a more sensitive magnet.
http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1342544027&sr=1-2&keywords=stud+finder

Another option is a measurement approach. 16" or 24" has been the standard for a loooong time in the US. Start from a corner and measure out 16". Drill in some holes (small enough to easily cover with paint) about an inch apart. Once you find one that pulls out wood shavings measure 16" off of that and try another. Sucks to put holes in your wall, but that might be the only option.

I have a lot of horsehair plaster walls, and I have had decent luck with https://www.amazon.com/ProSensor-710-Franklin-Sensors-Precision/dp/B0064EICKG . It's not perfect, but better than Zircon I have tried.

A good cordless drill should not be skimped on. Cheap versions like ryobi, harbor freight, etc have terrible battery technology, and the things don't make it past a few charge cycles. Buddy of mine bought a ryobi cordless tool set, what a pile of junk. He only did one small shelving install with it and it wouldn't take a full charge.

Things to not skimp on:

• cordless drill. It's hard to beat this Dewalt 20V with two batteries for $99
  
  
• Multi-bit screwdriver.
  
  
• 8" adjustable wrench
  
  
• groove lock pliers
  
  
• Magnetic Stud Finder
  
  
• Hacksaw
  
  All of the above will cost about $150, should be enough for most home repairs, and will last a lifetime (Well, the Drill will last ~10 years or so, no battery powered thing is BIFL).
  
  
  Avoid these brands:
  
  black and decker
  
  Ryobi
  
  Craftsman
  
  
  These brands tend to make quality tools:
  
  Dewalt
  
  Makita
  
  Milwaukee
  
  Bosch
  
  Porter Cable
  
  Hitachi

Search magnetic stud finder. Run it over the wall to find a screw in the drywall where your stud should be.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=magnetic+stud+finder&qid=1571351577&sprefix=magnetic+stu&sr=8-3

So you move a magnet around on a wall until you find a screw head?

Let me change your life, bro:

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1408657633&sr=1-2&keywords=stud+finder

Those finders suck. Get the thirty dollar one from Costco. It doesn't have a wire detector but those aren't accurate anyways.

Cut a small hole... Investigate for wires... If there's something behind it, patch it and don't worry bc a tv will cover it up if it isn't perfect

It's basically this but in blue :
ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064EICKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DI4Azb3WKT65H

Total waste in my book. All you really need is one of these magnetic ones. The fancy stuff didn't work for me but this does every time.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PT8gzbM75ASRP

Try a magnet. Itll hit on the nails or screws. Should give you a general indication of the studs.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_8XRMDb259QETV

Stud finders work terribly on lath and plaster. Buy this hand-held metal detector instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Zircon-m40-FFP-Handheld-Electronic-Detector/dp/B00ZF8Y6ZW

You'll use this to sense the metal nails that hold the lath strips to the stud. So it's basically a "stud finder" for lath and plaster.

Don't screw anything into the lath, even with toggle bolts. Find the studs and screw into them. Screw into the middle of the stud and you won't hit any wiring.

P.S. save up $70 for the speaker stands and don't destroy these awesome old walls.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_59BSCbASZJQKE

For less than $8, I really like this stud finder. And since it’s a magnet, there are no batteries to worry about for it.

Electric stud finders are shit. Buy this wonderful little magnet and wave it over a wall until it sticks. This will effectively just find the studs by finding the nails in the studs and sticking to them, then you know your stud location and you can move up and down on that to find the height you want.

Seriously. It works every single time, I hang mine on a piece of dental floss so I can swing it around on the wall until it sticks on it’s own.

It costs $7 and will prevent your tv from falling off of the wall.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FJNNDbVDS7NAQ

Depends on what type of plaster and lath you have (wire mesh is going to be your worst case). Normal wood lath and plaster, use a zircon to get you roughly in the area, and then a magnet to find the lath nails

here's the magnet i like"

https://www.amazon.com/Studpop%C2%AE-100480-SP-Studpop-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B00FRI5TMY

and heres the zircon:

https://www.amazon.com/Zircon-MultiScanner-i520-FFP-Finding-Detection/dp/B01J39MJEI

I dunno, I don't think the US would care if it violated any treaty, given the current US position on landmines.

But again this doesn't stop people it just slows them down. Landmine detectors are trivial to make. Hell, just put this on a pole:

http://www.amazon.com/Zircon-StudSensor-e50-Electronic-Finder/dp/B002R5AVVY

If you aren't there to stop people, they'll still get through, it'll just take a bit longer and maybe cost more. It's how walls work, it's how building security works, it's how safes work.

I've gone through a few stud finders and settled on the fact that stud finders just don't work very well.

Then I bought this and the same magnetic stud finder as backup. It changed my mind, it's damn near 100% consistent.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064EICKG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o0IhybXWA6YEF

If you search Google for"metal stud finder" you'll get a shit ton of results....

I've had expensive and shitty stud finders before. Then I got this for 9 dollars including shipping and it made me feel like an idiot. It's 100% consistent and effective. I have no idea why this isn't the standard object that people are referring to when they're talking about stud finders. I used to get the cheap electronic ones and I'd sit there trying to confirm that I'd actually found the stud and still miss it half the time.

In the USA the 1959 NEC introduced a rule that hasn't changed much to today; the “6 and 12 rule”:

210-22

>“receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the floor line in any usable wall space is more than six feet, measured horizontally , from an outlet in that space.”

Communities/States sometimes make the most current NEC the local code right away, but it is not unusual for places to lag one or more code cycles behind. So it is quite possible that a mid 1960s house would have much larger distance along a wall between outlets, because they only needed to conform to the "20 foot rule" introduced in 1940 or the 1956 "12 foot rule".

Or, if there are outlets near enough to the corner on both adjacent walls, it could have been be compliant without an outlet on the 10' long wall.

Also, in some rural areas there may not have been code enforcement at the time that the home was built or added-on to, so the home was built to whatever standard the builder was accustomed to follow.

When outlets are put in at the time of build, they tend to be at consistent height. So if you have suspicion that there might be an outlet-box with the outlet removed hiding under the wallpaper, you can rub fingers along the wall at outlet height in order to feel any hollow or concealed cover behind the paper. You can also use a sensitive non-contact tester if you have one, to attempt to detect active wires behind the paper. Or use a stud-finder that has current detection. Or use a tone&probe "breaker finder".

>DAE grubs?

I heard you buy a bag of grub killer and spread it in your yard.

>What common things?

Get a stud finder like this there's a knockoff blue version you can get at Costco too.

>should I insulate it and is that difficult to do?

Insulating is easy. It's putting up all the drywall and prepping it for painting that's a pain in the ass.

>Is it expensive to replace a door?

Depends on your definition of expensive. I'd say 4-600. A general contractor or a handyman with experience in doors could help.