Reddit mentions: The best switches

Yes they connect to the GPIO. I would use some pushbuttons like this then get some of these dupont cables to connect them to the GPIO on your Pi. Just snip and strip the male end of the cable and solder it to the leads on the button. You'll want to daisy chain one lead from all of the buttons and plug that into a ground pin on the Pi then connect the other lead from the button to an availible GPIO pin shown on this page in the "connecting to the Raspberry Pi" section.

After you have your buttons all connected, you'll need to install Retrogame. It's very simple but Adafruit's guide is pretty bad, if you ask me. I had a hell of a time figuring it out the first time so I'll just explain it to you here to save you time.

Use Putty on your PC to SSH into the Pi (you can find your Pi's IP address in the Retropie menu in Emulationstation, the port is 22, and use the SSH connection type, then the username is Pi, password is raspberry - when you type the password into the terminal nothing will show up, just hit enter when you're done and you'll have direct control over the terminal on your Pi). Now copy this code and right click in the terminal window to paste and hit enter

git clone git://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-Retrogame
When that's done enter this

sudo nano /etc/rc.local
Enter the following right before where it says "exit 0"

/home/pi/Adafruit-Retrogame/retrogame &
Hit ctrl+x and save the file. Now enter

sudo nano /etc/udev/rules.d/10-retrogame.rules
And enter this in the new document

SUBSYSTEM=="input", ATTRS{name}=="retrogame", ENV{ID_INPUT_KEYBOARD}="1"
Now save the file just as with the previous one.
Now download the retrogame.cfg from the retrogame github and open it with a text editor on your computer (if you don't already have it now would be a good time to get Notepad++) and change the keybinding you want to use for the corresponding pin. Save the file and copy it in the boot directory of your Pi by putting the SD card in your computer.

That should do it.

If you need any help or more information just ask. I know how irritating this stuff can be. I've been wrestling with getting my setup working perfectly for a while and have just recently figured it all out. It's great once it works!

Edit: formatting fixed.

A few weeks ago I posted some pics of a "quick and dirty" induction heater I made:

https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/8igobf/gear_shot_yet_another_quick_and_dirty_dynavap/

The heater I built in the previous post worked great, but I wasn't happy that it heated continuously when it was powered on. I decided to add an "on demand" mode, similar to the way the Portside functions: I wanted the induction heater to be energized only when the vapcap was in need of being heated.

I decided to use the same method and hardware that the Portside uses for its triggering mechanism: a small momentary switch at the base of the coil, utilizing the same 12 mm x 12 mm Arduino 'tactile' input switch as the Portside. This switch is normally open but closes (and activates the circuit) when the vapcap is inserted in the induction heater opening and lightly pressed down. I mounted this to a 25 mm square Zip tie "sticky base" using a small dab of hot glue, and ran the wires under the base through a drilled hole. I am happy with how it came out.

I took one other feature from the Portside design and decided to use a MOS FET triggering module to handle the actual power switching, sparing my momentary switch from having to pass enough current to power the heater.

This is the finished desktop unit - pictures, diagrams and some other notes:

https://imgur.com/a/pzRe3SV


PARTS LIST:

12mm x 12mm Arduino Switches:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQVGLC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My original 'big red switch' was a pull from an Epiphone Valve Junior guitar amplifier, left over from an earlier project. It looks nice, but it's nothing special - any latching (i.e., non-momentary) single pole/single throw (SPST) switch will do. This site has some switches that look pretty good and could work:

https://www.sparkfun.com/categories/145?page=1

Momentary trigger switch base:
https://www.amazon.com/Self-Adhesive-Mounting-Organizer-Management-Fastener/dp/B074279VJG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1527451422&sr=8-16&keywords=zip+tie+sticky+mount

Like the Portside's trigger, I used a 12mm x 12mm Arduino tactile (momentary) switch. Mine is hot-glued to a Zip tie "sticky base", which has the foam removed and is screwed to my board. I kept the stock Arduino switch button and trimmed its edge to fit inside the tube. There is a small segment of 7/16" wooden dowel inside the tube to achieve the correct height.

Pyrex tube:
Iwodevape Replacement Glass Tank for Cloupor Cloutank M3 Vaporizer authentic
https://www.fasttech.com/p/5236304

MOS FET trigger module:
15A 400W MOS FET Trigger Switch Drive Module PWM Regulator Control Panel
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOS-FET-Trigger-Switch-Drive-Module-PWM-Regulator-Control-Panel-15A-400W-NEW/331961560311?hash=item4d4a736cf7:g:7IsAAOSwEzxYeEwQ or similar. Just search for the above part description, you'll find the right one. It's a popular Arduino circuit.

If you plan on using a momentary switch, this is the way to go. Don't make the momentary switch directly supply the heater current.

Heater:
Yosoo 5V-12V ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Power Supply Module With Coil
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C71XKZ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power jack:
If you can solder:
https://www.amazon.com/2-1x5-5mm-Female-Barrel-Socket-Connector/dp/B01M3WBIA3/ref=sr_1_21?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527463812&sr=1-21&keywords=5.5+x+2.1+female

If you can't:
https://www.amazon.com/Sumaote-2-1x5-5mm-Connector-Terminal-Adapter/dp/B0761NL8V6/ref=sr_1_18?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1527463812&sr=1-18&keywords=5.5+x+2.1+female . Although, seriously, this probably isn't a good project for you if you can't solder.

I know many of you have these for yourselves and don't need any help or parts lists, but this may help those who need a little more guidance.

Updated to add: the above links are intended to show the correct parts, but may not be the cheapest or fewest quantities available.

Cheers!

I haven't done this myself but I read on here that you can keep the original button and joystick if you buy a push button microswitch like this, https://www.amazon.com/Microswitch-Arcade-Button-Standard-Jamma/dp/B01IJ8VYK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1541467443&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=arcade+button+micro+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41ZSINy0f9L&ref=plSrch

I'm not sure if that is the right one, but it is something like that to get the button to register, the stock button are all glued up and too much work to clean. You'll also need wire, USB encoder, usb wires. Not sure about the joystick though. The goal is to convert the joystick to USB so it can register in retropie/ raspberry pi.

When you add it all up for what you need to buy and do, it makes much more sense to replace everything like what most people are doing here. I bought a 2 player joystick set with lighted buttons on Ebay for $36. Not the best set but it is a little better than stock and a lot easier to work with.

Just make sure to look for buttons that are size 30mm since the hole on the unit are for size 30 mm. My set came with 16 30mm buttons and 4 24mm buttons.

If your kids are old enough to talk and handle the blasters, IMO they're mature enough to learn proper blaster/gun safety. Which is up to you, but I'd recommend things like not looking down the barrel, not pointing it at faces/anything you don't intend to shoot, and always assuming it's loaded.

If you don't trust them with the blasters, put them somewhere safe and have them ask you if they want to play with them. They'll probably end up jamming the blaster somehow and shredding darts, because I've seen college students do the same.

For the trigger switch, something like this would be a good switch, and you can watch the Make Test Battle Super Stryfe video for a guide on how to do the switch and some rewiring demos.

Seems as if you have all the parts you would need for a basic build. I'm still a bit new to this myself, so hopefully someone else will correct me if I'm off the mark.

I used the following parts:

• (1) Hammond 1590G
  
• (1) 3V Blue Lamp Metal 14mm Threaded Momentary Push Button Switch
  
• (4) Neodymium Magnets 1/4" x 1/8" Disc
  
• (8) Neodymium Magnets 1/8" x 1/8" Disc
  
• (1) 18650 Flat Tip Battery Holder
  
• (2) 6x6mm x 8.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Push Button
  
• (1) .030" Thick, Clear Lexan - Polycarbonate
  
• 20AWG Stranded Wire
  
• (1) Varitube 510 Connector
  
• (1) SX350 Chip (Pre-wired for up/down switches and USB From Varitube)
  
  I think that's it. I also have a few additional parts for the lighted push button, but you wont need those if you use a regular one. I can always post that info if you need it.
  
  Check the FAQ for tool recommendations for the basics you would need there.
  
  The SX350 allows for gravity changes (by tilting left/right) to control the wattage and uses it for menu navigation so the buttons are only there if you want more direct control.
  
  
  edit: If your SX350 does not have the buttons pre-wired there are pads for them on the chip you can wire your own. I believe there is a software update to enable them from Yihi. The one I got from Varitube was already set up for them.
  
  Normal momentary buttons are fine. I used something like This but any tactile switch should work fine.
  
  I have some of these on order as they look/feel a bit nicer then the basic plastic ones i have now.
  
  You might want some magnets for the faceplate. I got some 1/8"x1/8" and 1/4"x1/8" rare earth magnets off amazon and epoxied them in. Check the FAQ for some recommendations on glues and such.
  
  I would also recommend heat shrink tubing and some liquid electrical tape for the solder connections.
  
  Hope that helps.

For safe shut downs, charging warnings, and charging status - Adafruit PowerBoost 1000 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 1A - 1000C-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRBTH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shell used-Gametown® Full Housing Shell Cover Case Pack with Screwdriver for Nintendo Gameboy Classic/Original GB DMG-01 Repair Part-White (pick whatever color you want)-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1C2L1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screen used- BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor For Car/Automobile – purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (side note here is that in order to make this fit nicer, I installed it upside down in the case.

Speak used - uxcell 16pcs 27mm External Magnetic Speaker Loudspeaker 8 Ohm 0.25W, purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010V4RAAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (do not put ANYTHING on the top of the speaker when you install or it will not work.

Prototyping bread board, I purchased from amazon but it is no longer available at the link.

I used this PCB for the buttons on 1 build, the drill guide is VERY useful for this project. - 4 Button PCB For Gameboy DMG-01DIY Pi Zero Made In USA With Grounds and Hole Guide BY:Atomic Market, purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKJCQVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

L-R buttons- 100 Pcs 6 x 6mm x 9.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 4 Pin DIP, purchased at amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420WOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

28 Gauge Wire - Ribbon Cable - 10 Wire (15ft), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9SQQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I recommend going to a smaller (higher) gauge than 28. 30 or 32 would have made it a lot easer but 28 will do.

Indicator lights, Uxcell a11092800ux0119 Uxcell (Pack of 75), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0TCXSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (these are totally optional)

Resistors and capicitors (audio), purchased from https://www.taydaelectronics.com Note: heres the guide I used for the audio too! https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=480

Old Gameboy game cartridge. For aesthetics.
Headphone jack, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Socket-Audio-Jack-5Pin-PCB-Panel-Mount-Connector-PJ325-/400959590673

Volume wheel, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-B103-16x2mm-10K-Ohm-Double-Dial-Taper-Volume-Wheel-Duplex-PotentiometerBS/293146992835?epid=11009192051&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4440ec20c3:g:NZkAAOSw3h1ZUavq&enc=AQAEAAAB0BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUCHDbWKwW7sKftQNu9OoIx7SAZoMMNoO7ZC%2BQU2m6tHizIeixg2Hdk8yQin%2B7yNcIdtTzT%2FneqdaLt1WntvDDMDNnZ9%2BCyBsPWRiKLCNPKdeaaZNnBjMoVA%2F0tK%2BtG7DVLtcUKV1a4ZUD8%2F3Lgu9eesPLoBiXZs77Vo7R%2FDaZVMV%2FquPTyLO%2FBFipuEkim1t7BIMiLOi2P3Z31r4yxIdLUw6SCVesvVeqBQuoKov776Dxzk8pUY7PZvu4Q3ULnqBWmlWXsKXc8iAp9juNxUBFHnDgW6A7iElTGYe0sQRXfFHW73jI62f5aO%2FnqGANNK%2F7KJlu474aR3Gae9%2FJCT%2FwoLqmBb4FfizrUJ6qKEuVeLAi31kJSoJXIv4msi3r0bMNSm2D7FL5DUBr0Bc4xsSPi7KFWI9AhmQjUn%2FsLVysgEKd8QEildi1DULaVOX11bv95PGoXvfAusYXSi5NQZk4oZJHr6QIjXu5w4e9Nd2lFtmG4ZB%2BkqROOwwliad72iafj6cbSLphBAjtWGZQVNbmcdKXG6S8h7cTVqt0aD4oej7%2BlDVihmo%2BV0Rc2MhA9FgkM%2BcyzPd0qc9vHvdxjpQUq&checksum=2931469928353c744c25da8843a496116014d4766745

Micro SD card (16 GB minimum)

Female Micro usb Port, (I know I did buy these but I can’t find the link. I bought female micro usb ports to make charging easier.)

I want to say this is the battery that I used, specifically because after taking the shell off it was the perfect fit inside of a gutted Gameboy Game cartridge-https://www.bestbuy.com/site/mycharge-razorplus-4000mah-portable-charger-for-most-usb-enabled-devices-silver/6292246.p?skuId=6292246

3d printed button wells-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-button-wells/

Extra buttons-https://www.retromodding.com/collections/gameboy

Screw bracket-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-screw-bracket/

I got A LOT of buttons, glass screen shields, the other three builds button PCBs, some stickers, seriously a lot of stuff from https://store.kitsch-bent.com/ his store is unfortunately closed as he has had life catch up to him and has some shit to attend to. If he comes back online show him some love.

Stuff I got from kitsch
PCB board with LR input points
Buttons for X/Y (you can opt to just get replacement snes or an extra set of Gameboy buttons.
Glass screen that fit the GB shell after removing extra plastic


And obviously you should have a pi zero/w as well a shit ton of patience.

If you can get a good balancing charger and can be responsible and safe with it, a lipo will definitely be better than IMRs as far as performance goes. If you do go with lipos, you should probably get a better rev switch.

Here's a good rev switch:
https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Microswitch-V-156-1C25-plunger-action/dp/B00K67YO8G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496202242&sr=8-2&keywords=15A+microswitch

And here's a great lipo:
https://www.amazon.com/ZIPPY-Compact-1000mAh-Lipo-Pack/dp/B00TDCDKLW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496202444&sr=8-1&keywords=zippy+compact+1000mah+3s+25c+lipo+pack

Wow, thanks! Be sure to post any wands you make to r/wandsmith, we’d love to see them and are there to help!
Another thing I bought was a deadman switch so when you hit the floor, and check your pants lol, the lathe will automatically turn off. Also makes it easier to start and stop to see how things are going without having to mess with switches (depending on your lathe)

Haven't built van yet, but for both my current car and truck I have a little garmin like this that has no monthly fees or anything and all it does is GPS, using free google maps.


The benefit to me is that I absolutely do not want touch-screen controls in a car for AC and things like that, it's just another thing to go wrong, and I mount it right here (sorry too lazy to go take a pic to I drew it) where it's invisible to anyone looking at the car due to tinted side windows to the darkest legal limit. I do not have to connect/disconnect my phone, I don't need a little cradle taking up my windshield, and I can glance over at it just fine. I have one mounted in the "top" glove box of my tundra as well and that one is super hidden. I did it first so I even put a cheap microswitch on the door that turns on the device when it opens.


If they ever break, who cares? Buy a new one they are dirt cheap. No fiddling with phones, nothing sitting on the dash, and concealing it I think might help against people breaking in. Even though they are only like $50, there's bound to be someone out there who thinks they are more valuable or would break the glass for $50.

Saw a similar issue with mine when I first set it up - switch worked but no lit led.

My issue of course was a wiring problem. For the led to be activated you need to make sure that the additional led connections are made too. This will depend upon the switch you used of course but if you are using something like this https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Suitable/dp/B075QBJVTS?ref_=ast_bbp_dp then check the wiring diagram for program 1. My mistake was I missed that the NO (Normally Open) and the positive LED legs should be shorted to each other. Since mine had a wiring harness I just connected both wires to the positive connection of the zvs unit.

Hope your led issue is a simple fix like mine

BTW I like how you were able to fit it into that compact case, looks cool

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

• https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  

• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470
  

  
  

  And here's the part list!
  

  
  

  QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
  

  ---------:|----------|----------
  1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
  1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
  1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
  1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
  3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
  1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
  4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
  1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
  25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
  1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
  3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
  16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
  1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
  2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
  1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
  ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
  1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
  7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
  2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
  
  Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!

Well if you must know, Its a cremation box, usually sold for $20-30 on ebay. The Heating module and coil costed 13.00 from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The Button costed me 9.99 here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QBJVTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the power supply costed me 11.11 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NR6FPN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


With shipping and Best offer accepted, i think im doing justice here. These were the best prices i could find at the time from MULTIPLE vendors. I have a Portside Mini in the mailbox tomorrow and THIS box has NEVER failed me in the last few months since built. It is a work in progress yes. It can be expanded and definitely worked on to make it much better. I would of taken $50 which is what they USUALLY sell for but i started it at 75.00. Im sure it will cost me about 7-10 to ship when wrapped properly. Not loony at all.

Hopefully I'm not too late posting this. I need to install turn signals on my bike. The previous owner removed everything, the lights, controls, relay.

My question pertains to the controls. I originally was going to pick up a factory turn signal switch, but I sort of like the naked look. So instead I plan on using a micro SPDT toggle. I really want to install it into the bar itself, and not some type of holder.

My bars are 1.25", and taper to 1" OD at the ends. This means the ID is somewhere around 7/8" to 15/16". The problem is the smallest switch I've found has a total depth of 1.4", and has to be installed from the inside of the bar.

This is the switch.

I can't seem to find or think of a clean way to install them. The hole for the switch only needs to be 0.25". I haven't drilled yet, because I don't want to ruin the bars. The only way I've thought of is to drill an elongated hole, bend the terminals, and squeeze the switch through. But I'm pretty sure the nut for the switch won't conceal the hole.

Has anyone done this before? Or have any suggestions on how to accomplish this? Once I can figure this out, I also plan on adding micro push buttons for the horn and starter.

Thanks in advance, and sorry about the lack of metric measurements. :P

After seeing a couple posts of people's custom button boxes on reddit I knew I had found my next project. I've been doing quite a bit of Arduino and small electronics lately, and this was the perfect fit. So off I went to Amazon, ordered a bunch of stuff I thought might be cool / useful and started piecing things together. Took a few weekends of working on it here and there, the most time consuming part just being tediously soldering and wiring the 38 inputs.

​

Was originally going to set it into some sort of project enclosure, but ended up getting impatient and just mounting it to two pieces of plywood with some feet. It added enough heft to it that I can lift the switch guard and rotate the somewhat stiff selector without issue. Eventually I'll get a better enclosure for it, probably grab one off of Hammond mfg or get someone with a larger 3D printer to make one. The Engine Start and black/red button (that I'm going to use for quantum jump) have leds in them that I don't currently have hooked up to the Arduino, but once we get some sort of API into Star Citizen hopefully I can tie them to engine state and jump spool/ready state.

​

The controls are:

Power on, flight ready, 3 misc buttons, zoom rotary encoder, 3 misc buttons, quantum spool, quantum jump

Hat switch + center for shield distribution and reset, engine, shield, and thruster power switches, power distribution profile selector, misc selector

Flare Fire button, flare select, 7 misc toggle switches, self destruct switch, eject switch.

​

I mapped everything to a button in the Arduino code (no rotary encoder as zoom in this screenshot) so that I can easily bind to functions in Star Citizen. Unfortunately without an API this means the switch positions can get out of sync with the actual ship status easily. If by the time of release / they make an API there still isn't a way to read / set state by API then I'll probably make a new version with only toggle buttons.

​

Code Libraries

PCF8574_library for interfacing with the IO expanders
- https://github.com/xreef/PCF8574_library

ArduinoJoystickLibrary for emulating a joystick on windows
- https://github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary/

​

Useful Instructables

Joystick Library
- https://www.instructables.com/id/Create-a-Joystick-Using-the-Arduino-Joystick-Libra/

PCF8574
- https://www.instructables.com/id/PCF8574-GPIO-Extender-With-Arduino-and-NodeMCU/

​

Parts List

1 Terminal Expansion Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGDWJ2V

3 PCF8574 IO Expansion Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B95LMLQ

1 Rotary Encoder - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DM2YMT4

1 4 Position Rotary Selector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JN2967L

1 Red Ring Momentary Push Button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017ILTX60

1 Engine Start Momentary Push Button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MK2394L

5 Heavy Duty Toggle Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078KBC5VH

1 12 Position Rotary Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074WMC9C8

1 5-Channel Rocker - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K5PFPNC

1 Arduino Micro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFY2S56

7 Red/Black Momentary Push Buttons - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD2D96W

2 Red Cover Toggle Switches - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD2D96W

8 Small Toggle Switches - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013DZB6CO

Most gas fireplaces today us a millivolt gas value. If your fireplace happens to have a fan switch or 120v available near the fireplace switch you maybe in luck. I used the 120v from the fan of my fireplace in parallel to power a relay and added a Lutron Caseta switch in series to turn the 120v on/off to the relay which in turn opens or closes the contacts for the low voltage solenoid. The added benefit of using a smart switch is being able to add it to my voice assistant Alexa or Home Assistant.

120v White wire -> relay <--> smart switch <- 120v Black wire

..................................coil.................................................................

......millivolt line<-> N.O. <-> millivolt line.......

Some more info on fireplace wiring.

There are fireplace remotes available depending on your fireplace's solenoid.

Sure. Major links to major parts included, below.

I used a Dremel to cut a hole in the back of the head for the fan, and then drilled a few mounting holes and bolted the fan into the inside of the head (I used rubber washers and lock nuts). Note, the fan I selected is too loud and more powerful than needed - this should be improved.

I also drilled a hole for the panel mount momentary button and installed that.

I used the Dremel and a razor blade to cut out the eyes. Yeah, it does creep people out. I'm thinking installing red LEDs will help put them more at ease.

I ran the wires for the fan and the button to the timer, which I wired to send on 12VDC from the power adapter when the button is pushed. You can set the delay by installing a 0-ohm resistor/jumper/solder-blob between some pads on the circuit board - I figured this out experimentally. Happy to go in to more detail on all the wiring, if asked.

I secured the timer inside the head with VHB and then mounted the head on to a heavy base - just a piece of ABS I had laying around (I actually would have preferred a thicker piece, for more weight and better aesthetics).

I played around with a few materials to find something that would reliably absorb IR - the tape I used worked well. I also got some flat black plasti dip, which might produce a cleaner end result (the tape does create wrinkles around the eyes), but the tape came first and worked, so I decided not to test further.

Actually, the main reason I posted this is because I haven't found anyone else talk about how to defeat the proximity sensor in the Rift. So, for anyone who has come to this obscure corner of the internet in search of that information... there you are!

-----

Mannequin Head:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQVE3QW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WyaDzbQ48XQDV

-----

For the ventilation:

Momentary Push Button:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KPM0T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YwaDzbYFW1XD3

Timer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JLY2RWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yxaDzbGD60YV4

Power adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEOB4EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_byaDzb7X5130A

Fan:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9ZQRI7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xyaDzb04M7A2H

-----

To defeat the Rift's proximity sensor:

IR-absorbing tape:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GR5ZGYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kAaDzbFWM48EH
(There are other cheaper options, but I can guarantee this one works.)

I'm in a similar situation and have been brainstorming about it for awhile. You have two options:

1. Ditch your current wireless system and run a wire to a converter that changes the millivolt signal to 24V.
   
   https://www.instructables.com/id/Nest-Thermostat-With-Gas-Fireplace-or-Other-Milliv/
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDBP9Q/?coliid=I28F84ZZZ5MVLS&colid=2UT1TBBXYOV2A&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
   
   
2. Build your own wireless transmitter using Arduino and Raspberry Pi/Google Things/etc. I'm trying this option because my current remote has some unique settings. Here's the tutorial on how to get/transmit the wireless signal:
   
   https://arduinobasics.blogspot.com/2014/06/433-mhz-rf-module-with-arduino-tutorial.html
   
   ​
   
   Hopefully I'll be successful and post my results, but more likely I'll give up on being able to adjust flame height via my voice and just go with option 1. Good luck!

Ahah! I knew there was some type of button/switch like that but I didn't know what it was called or where to look. It looks like I could get some limit switches like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WRN7FQB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501434511&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=limit+switch&psc=1

Thanks for the idea. It will be much easier to add a switch than a photo resister the way I already have things wires.

67 available, $2.75 each, +$3 shipping to USA only.

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=YBC64S7RA89NW

For 2S only. Under voltage detector set to 6.4v. Pfet for reverse polarity protection of timer and under voltage detector. Slide switch functions as an on-off. Dimensions are 76.05 x 16.35 x 1.6mm, copper weight is 2oz, ENIG (gold) finish and solder resist is blue.

• Parts: http://www.digikey.com/short/tnvh31
  
  
• Wiring diagram: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tfzxu652u1bjqud/PWM%201590G%20wiring%20diagram.png?dl=0
  
  
• 1590G drilling template: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ndq9osgwtgdluo2/PWM%201590G%20drilling%20template.pdf?dl=0
  
  This is what the board looks like once assembled
  
  Note: Pot value selected is 50K, if you have a preference for another value please find the same model with that different value. The timer frequency cap is labeled as ".1uF*" on the board. Again, select one of a another value if you have another preference.
  
  A spacer should be placed between the tact and board to give it a proper height. Laser cut delrin spacers will be included. (http://i.imgur.com/RVEMTEs.png)
  
  
  
  Alternate 12 x 12mm tact switches:
  
  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PTS125SK85%20LFS/CKN9151-ND/1146883
  
  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/430476085716/430476085716-ND/5209048
  
  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ADTS25NV/679-2305-ND/2344311
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch-12x12x12mm/dp/B008420U92/
  
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Momentary-Tact-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-12-x-12mm-x-10mm-4-Pin-DIP-Cap-/351074434692

Remember you get what you pay for, but since you're just trying this out I found some cheap options on amazon:
Volt meter
3 position switch Keep in mind you need to make sure you match your inputs and outputs to the voltage the PLC I/O wants (120v AV or 24v DC)
Indicator light you can use as an output to turn on/off
Looks like the PLC wants 24vDC power so you'll need something like this to switch your 120 power from the wall.

Thanks for the links. Thanks for letting me know layers are not accessible from USB that narrows my options. To clarify my non USB option was to solder a set of wires to the boards next to one of the ALPS switches and run the wires from those ~4 switches down to a row of foot switches so I can press the modifier with ether the keyboard or my foot. https://www.amazon.com/Etopars-6Pins-Momentary-Switch-Guitar/dp/B07519FJM7/ref=sr_1_130?ie=UTF8&qid=1525493883&sr=8-130&keywords=foot+switch something like this in a box with a hing for each and a piece of sheet metal over them as peddles. Or I could splurge on something like 4X of these: https://www.amazon.com/Philmore-LKG-Momentary-Foot-Switch/dp/B004GIIYK0/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1525493691&sr=8-14&keywords=foot+switch

It comes pretty good. I do really like side snips - https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B076M3ZHBV/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1519155543&sr=1-3&keywords=side+cutters

And if you are shopping I would swap the part fan and thermistor:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermistor-Reprap-3D-Printer-Extruder/dp/B01DCFJBCC/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1519155599&sr=1-2&keywords=m3+thermistor&dpID=51tiPDgI0ZL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a14112600ux0241-Brushless-Sleeve-Bearing-Cooling/dp/B016XMK6SE/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1519155631&sr=1-4&keywords=24v+blower+fan&dpID=31iOokGKhLL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The thermistor I would swap right away. Lastly don't buy monoprice filament. Look at AIO Robotics, Esun, Hatchbox, AMZ3D, etc.

I've been told that the 6x6x9.5 or 10mm tacts work best for scuffing. if you want buttons I prefer the 6x6x8.5 tacts with caps.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VVVPY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UBWS9IW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420U92?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MLKJ3C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

here are some versions I've been playing with. Hope this help!

Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!

Here is what I have purchased so far.

12v 6a 72w power supply

ZVS Heater and Coil Combo

Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.

[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.

So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.

Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.

EDIT - MOSFET

Momentary Buttons

Mounting things for the momentary buttons

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.

Limit switches are very cheap, so you’ll pay more for shipping than the actual part itself. For example, the cheapest thing on amazon is a 10-piece set ($7)
https://www.amazon.com/URBESTAC-Momentary-Hinge-Roller-Switches/dp/B00MFRMFS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3

A lot of printers come with a spare, so if you have any friends with a printer, you might ask if they have any spares. Voltage/amperage doesn’t matter, it’s just a small 5V signal line so you won’t blow anything up.

The switch doesn’t even need to look the same as the original, it can be anything. It only matters that it “clicks” at the same spot each time, which all limit switches will do. This switch just tells the printer where the bottom of the print bed is.
The only thing that matters is that you have the same two mounting screw holes (which most of these limit switches have).

The limit switch isn’t axis-specific, meaning you could use the same switch for the X,Y, or Z axis.
When the button clicks, that’s the equivalent of touching the two wires together.

Edit: if you really want to save money, here’s a set for $4.80 https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pc-TEMCo-Micro-Limit-Switch-Lever-Arm-Subminiature-SPDT-Snap-Action-LOT/191202625167

Edit 2: if you live in the US, go to a local RadioShack. They’re roughly $1-2 there. https://www.radioshack.com/collections/switches/products/spdt-switch-without-roller?variant=20332090693

Not the person you replied to, but I will try to help.

Electrical switches are relatively simple devices but because there are so many styles of switches available, what you are asking for is really not that simple.

The first question is: What style of switch do you want? Toggle, momentary toggle, push button, momentary push button, rotary, magnetic, rocker? There are literally hundreds of thousands of different switches available.

The next question is how will you be making the connection? Solder, crimp, barrel connector, dupont, molex, scotchlok, screw terminal?

And finally, how and where will you mount the switch? Inline on the wiring harness? Do you need to drill a mounting hole? Are you looking for something that comes with mounting hardware? Is there clearance for your switch location?

I know this is all new to you and I am throwing out a bunch of terms you may have never even heard before. The simple solution for you, at least at first, might be to wire your LED strip right into the output screw terminals of your power supply. Then when the printer is on your light is on, and the light is off when the printer is off. Just be sure to mind the polarity (red to +, black to -) and wire into the 24v dc output side and not the 120v ac input side of the terminal block.

If it helps, here is a short list of switches I have purchased for different projects (all of these require soldering and some kind of mounting hole or hardware):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SUXW18S
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DS1GY0
https://smile.amazon.com/ZUPAYIPA-Solder-Rocker-Switch-Toggle/dp/B01N2U8PK0
https://smile.amazon.com/Magic-shell-5-Pack-Rocker-Position/dp/B07D285PLL
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ICKO30

> g

I've been using this one on a Petsfang for 4 months now:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B016XMK6SE

Works great, part quality is awesome. I mostly print with Sunlu PLA+ or Hatchbox PETG.

There's nothing wrong with your code, I just ran it and it works fine. Are you sure that you are wired up correctly?

• Are you on gpio21 (pin 40, lower right hand corner)?
  
  
• is your button connected to ground?
  
  
• If you are using one of those little 4 pronged momentary buttons, make sure that you have it connected correctly, 2 pins on each side are always connected to each other, so try moving 1 wire to a different pin.

Battery, Voltmeter, Wire, Pusher, Motors, MotorCover, Micro Switch, Charging Stuff, Charging Stuff, You're idea is pretty good, no comments on improvement.

Edit: Formatting

I moved shops recently and wanted to have piped dust collection so I started working on that. Somewhere while watching some videos I saw several where people had blast gates that switched the DC on and off and I was like that's awesome but they didn't go into much detail. I finally accidentally found one that gave a better idea of what products they used and bought the parts, tested it out and implemented it. It works great.

To turn on the collector I just open a blast gate. To turn off the collector I close the blast gate. Pretty simple and it makes it very hard to forget to close a blast gate and use another tool with reduced suction.

Short video of it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59u5zHttUn4

The parts I used:

• PowerSwitchTail II
  
• Micro switches
  
• 20/2 bell wire
  
  Edit: Oh and of all the methods I used to cut the DWV piping (bandsaw for shorter pieces and cleaning up, sawzall with a crappy miterbox-style 90 cutting guide and a handsaw in the same guide) the handsaw I think was the easiest to get a nice cut.

Didn't take days. Less than an hour, but at the same time I've done about 3-4 of these before so I was already familiar with the inside of a 360 controller.

Here's the tall tactile switches you need for the paddles: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch/dp/B008420WOA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394140371&sr=8-3&keywords=tactile+switches

That's 100 of them which is way too many, but only buying 3 or 4 is still only like $1 less...so I bought 100 and they've lasted me through various projects.

You also need (it looks like a lot more than it really is, but I'm being detailed)

• Hot glue gun
  
• Some kind of thin wire (salvages phone cable or wire from usb cable works)
  
• Some kind of material to make paddles out of (mine are heat shields from a Server CPU...but any kind of plastic/metal strip will work). I've made them from pen caps, erector sets, and prescription bottles before.
  
• Soldering Iron + Solder
  
• The correct driver to take apart your controller. The Xbone needs two special torx drivers.
  
• Drill and various bits. (If you have taps, that makes some of it easier as your screws wont be threading the plastic)
  
• Small screws to hold paddles on (I pulled mine from my random screw bin)
  
• Whatever screws you want for trigger stops (if you want them). I like knobby allen head screws so I can undo them by hand if I want
  
• If you want adjustable triggers some kind of small screws for that as well. I've done adjustable only on the right, both adjustable and neither. I'm on the fence about them. They helped with the FAL in BO2, but I never felt the need for them in ghosts.

There are products designed to be hardwired and control a load. Of course they wouldn’t integrate with your home automation but if the only goal is to turn power on/off based on the door being open they would work.

My grandma’s house was built in the 50s and every closet has one. Best feature ever and they still work to this day.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036ZA9F2/

If you have a soldering iron, you can get the parts to make something like that yourself - like technocraft/bolanrox mentioned, you can tap the 9v line going into a pedal, add a resistor to an LED to keep from overdriving the LED, and wire inline. Myself, I'm thinking of using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ulincos%C2%AE-Latching-Button-Suitable-Mounting/dp/B017KP67GI/

Camera
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078XV2MRH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This camera is sold only on amazon.ca, but u can get better cameras that are cheaper than the one i got.

Switches
https://www.amazon.com/yueton-Terminals-Position-Toggle-Switch/dp/B013DZB6CO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523136755&sr=8-3&keywords=DPdt

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LZVASTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pins
https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-Female-Connector-Terminal-2-54mm/dp/B0146DJR9Q/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1523136919&sr=8-6&keywords=male%2F+female+pin+connector+terminal

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0156C5538/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Female Rca
I used my old female rca cables that were just laying around but any female rca jack will work
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-RFIF2SW-Speaker-Adapter/dp/B00G352P2C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523137091&sr=8-5&keywords=female+rca+connector

It kinda depends on what kind of buttons the arcade cabinet uses. The switches can range anywhere from real MX style switches to something like a HAPP Microswitch or even a Sanwa Microswitch.

Either way if its not a cherry mx switch, you'd have to build everything from the ground up such as designing keycaps for the switches and creating a pcb/plate/case for it as well.

Looks ljuat like a the momentary foot switch I bought yesterday to switch between the clean and overdrive on my amp. Momentary Foot Switch : 30-17090 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GIIYK0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

If you can solder make a scuf tbh

I am an electronics refurbisher and I have had scuf like products come in before and a lot of the time they end up being a controller with some holes drilled in it with paddles and a board you can find online for like 15$ and do yourself

https://www.amazon.com/Playstation-Dualshock-Board-Remap-Install-4/dp/B00SVHWMEQ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008420WOA/ref=pd_aw_sim_63_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JAERDCKTZASCC1X42QMP

Ah okay, thanks

So is really any push-button compatible for an external power button? For example this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KP67GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_TBY.BbXEG0FKM

Well my Stryfe has a pair of MTB Rhino motors instead of the stock ones. They're 12v instead of the 6v stock motors, and run on a 3S LiPo battery instead of the four AAs in series it normally takes.

1.5v * 4 = 6v max vs the LiPo at 12.6v max

I made this to help it fit.

Keep in mind that you need to redo the wiring with something thicker to keep from burning it out. And replace the stock trigger switch with something heavier, I think I used one of these.

I put a little voltage meter on connected to the jam door as well, so I know when it's running low.

So basically I've completely replaced all of the electrical components but it sure hits a lot harder now. You can actually get some decent range from it.

If I wanted to mess with it further I'd probably replace the flywheels with something that could grip a bit better, but the problem I ran into messing with it last time was if they grip too hard they shred darts.

Funny thing, I just bought this one off Amazon to have around for some future project: http://www.amazon.com/Mushroom-DPST-Emergency-Button-Switch/dp/B0094GM004?ie=UTF8&keywords=emergency%20stop%20button&qid=1462997004&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3.

URBESTAC 250V 5A SPDT 1NO 1NC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFRMFS6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I just used a spring I had laying around, no idea what the spring constant was. I would recommend a pretty stiff spring.

I have a gas (millivolt) furnace and no 24v wiring in my house.

It’s a bit ugly, but I have this plugged into a wall outlet, which steps down voltage to 24v for a Nest Thermostat. It also has millivolt leads to connect to the switch terminals on your furnace. It was designed specifically for this sort of application.

Works perfectly so long as you don’t lose power, which happens to me frequently in the winter. My current solution to that is just a piece of wire I manually use to jump the furnace switch when I need heat. I’ll eventually replace it with a zwave thermostat that has a backup battery.

The enclosure I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TS6RY85/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AyhxDbV7EHBCN

The 5A power supply (5A and you don't have to use a mosfet): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GzhxDbQWPT5QR

I used a glass slide tube for inside of the coil. You will have to rewrap the coil on the IH to fit around the slide, not hard at all: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FWYAWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MAhxDbTK5P2YY

The actual IH: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lChxDb0DGE3TM

The 5v switch w/ wiring harness (you don't need any extra wires this way): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QBJVTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fDhxDb7HTYE19

A Unibit would be a good thing to have to get the 3 holes drilled in the box. A hotglue gun and a screwdriver and your set....

There's magnetic mains rated Reed switches, but I prefer the robustness of a jamb switch like this Leviton 1865 3 Amp, 125 Volt, Single-Pole, Doorjamb with Jamb Box Switch, Single Circuit Momentary, Normally ON, Commercial Grade, Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036ZA9F2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OnNvCbE7SKRP3

A cable tie is pretty reversible. A foot-operated dead man switch would help, safety-wise, something like this...

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9080-Billy-Switch-Deadman/dp/B000LJNJOE/

Just need yourself a deadman switch and you're set! I have one of these for my proxxon, so much more productive to just hit a pedal and you're ready to rock.

MLCS 9080 Billy Pedal Foot Switch, Deadman Style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LJNJOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L-AxDb30R8P11

Np. here’s an example

You then just solder your own wires. You can use the arduino (aka breadboard) jumpers so you can plug it on the motherboard.

LED strip (12V, 60 LEDs/m, 5050 LEDs) is darn cheap, fairly bright, and all over the internet. Here's 5m of white on Amazon. If that's not bright enough, you can get higher lumen LED arrays that run on 12V.

You could use some little toggle switches or maybe rocker switches.

These. They are a bit tall, but it's fine.

Unfortunately Nest doesn't directly support reverse logic systems like yours (Y1 is used for cooling vs. yours needs to be not heating). Nest also doesn't like stranded wires.

​

Installing a simple relay at the valve would help change the logic so that you would have a W1 instead of a Y1 for heating.

Foot pedal switch from Amazon, my dude.

Information Fire Hose

it's a common arcade button replacement micro switch.

if you dont have a bunch of arcade buttons sitting about and need to order a part to do the mod, get these instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MFRMFS6 . it will make the pedal action not snap so much, and because you don't need so much force you can put it closer to the middle if you like.

the switch is attached to the side with 1" #4-40 screws and nuts... but if you plan to gig or tour it, buy nylon lock nuts for them or the shit will fall off constantly.

the jacks I used are also stereo, and the freeze trigger is on the tip and ring to avoid chassis grounding issues affecting the audio signal path. I just used a normal aux input cable to wire it.

happy soldering :P

(edits, I hate typing on mobile)

momentary switch $8.79 (for 25, you need only 1)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCQVGLC/

induction heater $12.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/

project case: $12.98

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107WU67M/

mosfet: $7.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J78FX9S/

power plugs $9.99 (you need only 1 pair)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YP4CP6/

test tubes $6.02 (cut in half, you'll break a couple until you get one you like)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKMWZOA/

on/off switch $6.50 (for 15, you need only 1)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2U8PK0/

​

in addition, you'll need some 18-20ga wire & solder, and a 12v/6a to 10a power supply

I think you need the 12mm ones

http://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch-12x12x12mm/dp/B008420U92

what about this? https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Microswitch-V-156-1C25-plunger-action/dp/B00K67YO8G

The switch I'm using is this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DFYDNE?keywords=toggle%20switch&qid=1449860351&ref_=sr_1_15&sr=8-15

It has 3 positions (ON on each side, OFF in the middle I believe) and 3 places to connect

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K67YO8G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3G3SQGWUPUX9W is a switch I've seen used. As long as your batteries don't rhyme with schmustfires.

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9080-Billy-Switch-Deadman/dp/B000LJNJOE/ref=pd_sim_328_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000LJNJOE&pd_rd_r=TJS35078VTZT2MM39N06&pd_rd_w=jg3Wa&pd_rd_wg=1byKr&psc=1&refRID=TJS35078VTZT2MM39N06

this is the one I have, it's 15 amp

It's possible with a little work. https://smile.amazon.com/Honeywell-R8845U-1003-Universal-Switching-Transformer/dp/B000LDBP9Q/ref=pd_rhf_eetyp_s_vtp_ses_clicks_1_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000LDBP9Q&pd_rd_r=2WWZCVT64DV8MC1AP15R&pd_rd_w=m5yx6&pd_rd_wg=VCXOJ&pf_rd_i=desktop-rhf&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=05d75987-58ed-4d36-bbfa-515cd87e4ee3&pf_rd_r=2WWZCVT64DV8MC1AP15R&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhf&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=2WWZCVT64DV8MC1AP15R

https://www.amazon.com/API-ELE-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Self-Reset/dp/B079GNNSRP/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541366661&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterproof+push+switch&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Suitable/dp/B075QBJVTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1541366661&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterproof+push+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=410iuxGxhhL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/TOTOT-Automatic-Self-Reset-Waterproof-Dustproof/dp/B07C4T6XT5/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1541366780&sr=8-19&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterproof+push+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41UbL7CKvtL&ref=plSrch

You might consider a Deadman Switch if you don’t already have one.

I don't think Kite specifies a type of button. These will work though: https://www.amazon.com/9-5mm-Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch/dp/B008420WOA

I must be confused about how switches are rated. This was is listed as a 15A rating. Which should be adequate right? Or maybe you were meaning that for the given size of the switch it could have a higher amp rating?

I used LED tape found off Amazon...super cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just used 22 gauge wire I got from Home Depot to solder the positive / negative to a 12v power supply. To turn the lights on and off, I just used a cheap limit switch:

https://www.amazon.com/URBESTAC-Momentary-Hinge-Roller-Switches/dp/B00MFRMFS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536763141&sr=8-3&keywords=limit+switch

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I'll try to take some pictures when I get home tonight.

> adaptive controller

OMG I had no idea this device existed.. Now I want to use this footswitch as a Pharah Jet, Winston leap, or D.Va thrust. I need this!!