Yay! I can actually help with this!

Adagio Teas has my FAVORITE loose leaf teas in the world. It depends what kind of tea she likes to drink, but you can get her a bunch of samples and go from there. You'll also get frequent cup points you can use later if you get some samples.

My favorites are:

(Black teas) Yunnan Gold, Golden Monkey, and Black Dragon Pearl: all chocolatey and rich, I drink them with soy milk and listed from not-very-earthy to smoky-earthy.

(Green teas) Gyokuro, Sencha Overture, and Jasmine Yin Hao: I prefer Japanese steamed greens which are more grassy and vegetal than Chinese pan roasted ones, but if she likes nutty green teas Dragonwell is also great.

(White teas) Silver Needle and White Peony: Awesome because they're low in caffeine (I was just informed they aren't necessarily lower in caffeine, so let's just say awesome for the sublime nectar-y taste), my white teas have been kind of lonely since it's winter here, but in the summer they're perfect. Apricot liqueur and honeysuckle come to mind.

But I'm not a big fan of blends (she may be), or Oolongs, or Pu Erhs, and definitely I don't drink anything not camellia sinensis (like honeybush), and a lot of my favorites are pretty expensive (but so worth it), so if you know she loves peppermint or chamomile by all means do that! If you only got one from Adagio, I would go with yunnan gold undoubtedly. You can get a sample for only $5 and it's heaven. Nobody dislikes this tea, not even people who say they don't like tea!

(And you can use code 6905673943 for $5 off!)

---

Next she's going to need a way to brew it. I abhor doing dishes, my mother has made me some wonderful tea cups (she does ceramic pottery) but you can definitely just use the coffee/tea cups you already have to start. If you wanted to make it a cute holiday basket, of course, a tea cup would make the whole thing look adorable. At the risk of sounding like I work for Adagio, a glass cup like this is so perfect because you can watch the color of the tea as it brews which is a great indicator of tea strength!

Since I hate dishes so much, I have ended up using just empty, fill-able tea bags (I get the 2-cup capacity ones here) which is really great for re-steeping because you can just save the tea bag and put it in the fresh water.

Temperature is super important if you're brewing anything other than super robust black teas or herbal teas. For example, I steep my favorite green tea at 170 degrees F, which is a lot cooler than the 212 of boiling water. I bought this thermometer more than a year ago, and I've never had any problems... plus, getting a temp-specific tea kettle is so expensive :/ To walk you through how I personally make my tea:

1. I pick which tea! The hardest part!
   
2. I boil some water in an electric kettle, but any kettle is fine
   
3. I measure out about a teaspoon of the looseleaf into an empty teabag... the tea you buy will give you measurement instructions for how much!
   
4. I pour the boiling water into the teacup and measure the temp. If it's supposed to be brewed at boiling, I don't bother measuring, otherwise, I'll wait until it hits the correct temp to brew
   
5. I put the teabag in the correct temp water and time it. Again, the tea you buy will probably come with instructions for how long to brew.
   
6. I save the teabag to use it again for my next cuppa!
   
   I'll often put agave sweetener in my tea, and soy milk if it's a black tea.
   
   I have also bought this for steeping and I adore it but it's another dish to do for a student without a dishwasher... It's a spring-loaded receptacle where you place your loose-leaf, and when it's done steeping in the hot water, you put it on top of the teacup. The gravity pushing on the spring releases the tea from the receptacle leaving the leaves and it's really really cool and efficient and you can make more tea at a time... but for a beginner, I would really recommend empty bags.
   
   ---
   
   Best of luck!
   
   tl;dr Adagio is not a cult
   
   edit: linked to Adagio

You and I are probably similar. I had never cooked before spontaneously deciding I was going to cook all of my own food from scratch on my 37th birthday. I also spent HOURS slaving away on often so-so dishes and felt discouraged. I pushed through that initial 2-3 month window of crappiness and now I'm 2.5 years into cooking 6 days a week and it's been life changing. That said, I still don't LIKE cooking, but I don't mind it, and I love the feeling that I finally know what I should be eating.

I think it was J. Kenzi Lopez Alt who said that good food is the result of:

1. Good Recipe
   
2. Good Ingredients
   
3. Good Equipment
   
4. Good Technique
   
   Good recipes: I can't believe there's 41 comments and no one's mentioned Budget Bytes. She is the queen of pragmatic, low cost, fast-enough, from-scratch, healthy weeknight dinners. For your first couple of months of cooking try focusing on just her recipes. They're beginner friendly and very well written.
   
   At least until you develop the sense of what makes recipes good, avoid YouTube, gif recipes, Pintrest, and the obnoxious blogs full of too-well-staged-photos. They're interested in views and shares, not cooking.
   
   Here's some other sites that produce consistently good food:
   
   

• Simply Recipes: Traditional American food
  
• Skinny Taste: Very similar to Budget Bytes, great weeknight meals
  
• Serious Eats: Great food, but tends to be pretty hardcore in ingredient & technique requirements. They probably make the best version of your favorite dish. Save SE for a weekend meal once you're more comfortable cooking.
  
  Here's some confidence building fantastic recipes:
  
  
• Baked Chicken with Artichokes and Tomatoes (Budget Bytes)
  
• Stuffed Pepper Soup (Skinny Taste) (Substitute marjoram for oregano for if you don't want to buy marjoram)
  
• Spicy Tuna Guacamole Bowls (Budget Bytes) (Here's a great guacamole recipe if you want to make that from scratch too)
  
• Greek Chicken Wraps (Budget Bytes)
  
• Greek Turkey and Rice Skillet (Budget Bytes)
  
• Roasted Cauliflower with Lemon Tahini Dressing (Budget Bytes) (if you grate the garlic in to the dressing with a microplane you don't NEED to blend the dressing; just whisk it)
  
• Easy Teriyaki-Glazed Salmon, Cucumber, and Avocado Rice Bowls (Serious Eats)
  
• Sweet Crunch Winter Salad (Budget Bytes) (WAY better than it sounds)
  
• Skillet Chicken Fajitas with Avocado (Serious Eats)
  
• Chorizo Sweet Potato Skillet (Budget Bytes)
  
• Chicken in Peanut Sauce (Budget Bytes)
  
• [Skillet Chicken Puttanesca (Simply Recipes)[https://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/skillet_chicken_puttanesca/]
  
• Chipotle Chicken Chili (Pioneer Woman)
  
  Good Ingredients: In the beginning I found that cooking was often way more expensive than I'd ever imagined. That was in part because I hadn't built up much of a pantry (oils, vinegars, spices, other condiments), but the main reason was because I was shopping a supermarket. For both cost and quality reasons, each week try finding a new market in your area. In particular, look for ethnic markets frequented by people of the biggest ethnic culture in your area. The asian, mexican, and middle eastern markets in my area have better quality food for quite seriously 50-75% less than a supermarket. The closest supermarket charged $7/lb for prepackaged ground beef. The mexican place nearby charges $3/lb for ground beef they grind themselves.
  
  Speaking of ethnic markets, try to find an ethnic market with a dry goods section where you can scoop out as much of an ingredient as you want into bags for cheap.
  
  If you live in a metropolitan area find a Penzeys. They sell spices that are much higher quality than a supermarket for about 25-50% less than supermarket prices.
  
  You're going to need tons of chicken broth. Until you inevitably start making your own large batches in a pressure cooker a year from now, stick with Better Than Bouillon(https://www.betterthanbouillon.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/BTB_Package_8oz_Roasted_Chicken_Base-2017.png). It's cheaper and better than the crap you get from a can or carton.
  
  Good Equipment: The most important thing is a sharp knife. Here's the $27 knife everyone usually recommends. Even if you already have a knife, it's probably dull if it's not new and you haven't sharpened it; get it sharpened or buy a new one for now. Learn to hone it before or after each use.
  
  Go to a kitchen supply store, Smart & Final, or Amazon and get a couple of 1/4 sheet trays ($4?), ten or so bar towels ($1 each), and a prep bin ($4) so that your prep area looks like this. Also get a bench scraper ($5). The 1/4 sheet trays keep your ingredients organized and ready to go. The prep bin saves you from having to keep a trash can nearby and keeps things tidy. The bench scraper is a time-saving godsend for moving stuff around. A proper prep station alone will probably cut your cooking times by 10-20%.
  
  Good Technique: Once you have an organized prep station and you get your workflow down, the biggest time saver is going to be knife skills. Onions & garlic will be your most commonly chopped items, so watch several videos and make sure that each time you chop one of those it's meaningful practice. To avoid cutting yourself: get a sharp knife, while cutting always consider what would happen if your knife slips, and every time something awkward/unusual happens, take a small pause before you continue cutting.
  
  The art of home cooking by recipe really comes down to heat management. Get an infrared thermometer for $20, they're incredibly valuable when starting out. For the vast majority of sauteing, turn your pan to medium high (just guess) and measure your pan with that thermometer until it's around 300 then pour in whatever oil you're using. Keep checking them temp with the thermometer until that oil is around 330-360 then toss in your meat or vegetables. If you wait a few seconds, slide the food out of the middle of the pan, and check the temp again you'll see it's in low 200's because the food saps the heat out of the pan. Your goal is to keep that heat in the 300's. Note that as the food heats up the pan will get hotter quicker, so as you're learning keep monitoring that pan and get used to the sounds it's making so eventually you'll manage heat through sound & instinct.
  
  The last thing is: use more salt. If you're cooking a recipe that looked great, and got great reviews, and it doesn't seem like you made any big mistakes yet it's still bland, it's because you didn't add enough salt 100% of the time. It took me a while to realize that when I add salt to a dish someone else has made, they had already put a good amount of salt in it. So when salting a dish that makes four portions, you're not going to just shake in some salt from a shaker, you're going to pour in a teaspoon or more.

1. A good, sharp chef's knife. Nothing fancy, I use a Dexter that I got for like $20 and have it resharpened. You can get a lot nicer, but you don't have to. The first kitchen I ever worked at (20 years ago) used knives almost exactly like this.
   
   
2. A good meat thermometer. I use this one which works similarly to a ThermaPen but without the ridiculous ~$90 cost.
   
   
3. A good cast iron skillet can be pretty versatile. Cast iron holds heat very well, which means that it's great for stuff like searing steaks.
   
   
4. Some cheap, non-stick frying pans. I recommend getting cheap ones because once the coating starts coming off (and it always does at some point, it seems) you're going to throw them away and get new ones. You can spend $300+ like I did once and get high-end stuff like All-Clad or whatever, but even if you're super careful and use only wood and silicone utensils to cook on it, it'll still start peeling its coating, and then All-Clad will say you used metal silverware on it and your warranty is invalid, blah blah blah, and that's more hassle than you need. Just get cheap ones.
   
   
5. Now THIS is where you can spend some legit money. A tri-ply, high quality frying pan without a non-stick coating. These are great for making pan sauces while you cook, etc. I made a chicken, garlic, and olive oil with a red wine vinegar based pan sauce with this pan (well, and some baking dishes) that was incredible. All-Clad is the industry standard but the Tramontina stuff is 1/2 the price or less and built to near the same level of quality.
   
   
6. A nice, enameled Dutch Oven, whether it be from Le Creuset or Tramontina, these are the best for stews, soups, chili...etc. Hold heat forever, well built, and easy to clean.
   
   
7. A good fish spatula, which I almost never use to cook fish. It's actually just the best shape for omelets, eggs, whatever. Flipping anything in a pan with a utensil like this is awesome.
   
   
8. A thick ceramic baking dish for making things like lasagna or casseroles or even just roasting meats/veggies.
   
   
9. Believe it or not, cookie sheets covered with heavy duty aluminum foil are how I do a lot of my oven roasting of small things, like diced veggies or potatoes. They work perfectly and being so large they're able to be spread out so they get roasted on all edges for a little extra flavor. Brussel sprouts & diced bacon in a cast iron skillet to start and then dump them onto this and blast them in the oven at 425 for 15-20 minutes and you'll have a great side dish.
   
   
10. No matter how careful you are, you're going to get something caked on or get a dish so dirty you think it's uncleanable. For that, I recommend Barkeeper's Friend which is an awesome powdered cleaner. Add a little water, use a paper towel and this stuff to make a paste, leave it in the pan for a few minutes, then rinse. I have yet to see this fail. Awesome stuff. Saved some pans.
    
    
    There are lots of other things I use daily:
    
    

• Good kitchen towels
  
• Heavy Duty Aluminum foil
  
• A good dish scrubber for cleanup
  
  etc.
  
  But the point I guess I'm making is that you can get lots of good, cheap stuff to start with.
  

TL;DR warning

Are you willing to invest in some tools? Do you like Five Guys? (skinny burgers) The fastest burger procedure that I know of is Kenji's Ultra-Smash technique, which makes a pair of thin patties in no time. Takes about a minute per burger (two patties with cheese). Details here:

http://www.seriouseats.com/2014/03/the-food-lab-maximize-flavor-by-ultra-smashin.html

You can also do a regular smash burger, which is thicker (McDonalds-thin), but takes longer (~1.5 minutes per side, about 3 minutes total per burger):

http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2012/09/the-burger-lab-smashed-burgers-vs-smashing-burgers.html

The advantage of the ultra-smash is that it's super quick & you can toss a piece of cheese to melt between two patties, so you can pump out a ton of burgers in no time. You will need a few tools, namely:

1. A metal cooking surface
   
2. A hi-temp heat source
   
3. A smashing tool
   
4. A high-quality spatula
   
5. A scraper (if doing ultra-smash)
   
6. A cheap IR temp gun
   
7. A cheap digital kitchen scale
   
   It's not rocket science, but getting a proper setup will let you have a workflow that makes cooking for a crowd a breeze. I have a big extended family, so I cook in bulk a lot, but I also use this for just my immediate family because it's so fast to get setup. There is an up-front investment required, but everything you'll buy will pretty much last forever, so it's worth it if you like to eat burgers!
   
   So the first two things you need are a metal cooking surface & a heat source that can pump out a lot of heat. I don't recommend a regular grill because they simply don't get hot enough; you need 600 to 700F to do this. You can either do a compact setup (a 2-burger surface with a single burner) or invest in a quality flat-top setup (more expensive, but lets you do more burgers at once). The ideal surface to do this on is a Baking Steel, which is very expensive. There are knockoffs for cheaper, but I like BS because they have a Griddle version with grooves to catch the grease:
   
   http://www.bakingsteel.com/
   
   You can also do it with cast iron. Lodge has a griddle for $25:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Lodge-LDP3-Double-Reversible-Griddle/dp/B002CMLTXG
   
   If I'm just doing a single regular smash burger at a time, I use a 12" cast-iron pan. $28:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Lodge-Cast-Iron-Skillet-L10SK3ASHH41B-12-Inch/dp/B00G2XGC88/
   
   If you do get into cast-iron, read up on this seasoning procedure (i.e. the way to keep it smooth & slippery without Teflon). It's a bit of a pain, but it's worth learning because anything you buy in cast-iron can be handed down to your kids because it lasts forever:
   
   http://sherylcanter.com/wordpress/2010/01/a-science-based-technique-for-seasoning-cast-iron/
   
   You will want a heavy smashing tool as well. I have this massive 2.5-pound cast-iron press. It fits inside the 12" pan above (but not the 10"). $13:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Update-International-Heavy-Weight-Hamburger-Commercial/dp/B002LDDKZ6
   
   If you plan on doing ultra-smash burgers, you'll need a scraper. This is the one Kenji recommends, but you can probably find something locally: (Home Depot or Lowes)
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Plextool-Wall-Paper-Stripper/dp/B00AU6GQLQ/
   
   Anyway, getting back to the cooking part: you'll need a hi-temp burner. I like Bayou Burners, they sell them on Amazon. I have an SP10: ($50)
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-SP10-High-Pressure-Outdoor/dp/B000291GBQ
   
   I use that with my 12" cast-iron pan for when I'm just doing a few burgers for the family. 15 minutes = 5 burgers. You can also slap a flat surface like a cast-iron griddle or Baking Steel on that puppy. Also comes in a square version (not sure how the BTU's compare). I also have some KAB4 burners that I use with my Baking Steel, among other things. More expensive, but larger shell & burner: (more even heat over the cooking surface)
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-KAB4-Pressure-Cooker/dp/B0009JXYQY/
   
   For cooking more at a time, you can get a cooktop. Blackstone has a 36" cooktop available, but it doesn't get very hot (don't get me wrong, it's an awesome tool, but I've had trouble breaking 500F on mine, which means you're not cooking 1-minute burgers on it, plus the heating is kind of uneven, so you have to work in the hot spots for faster cook times). Also comes in a slightly smaller 28" version (but it's only like $50 less, so it makes more sense to get the full-sized version because you get so much more cooking area). The nice thing with this setup is that for $299 (or a bit less if you shop around at places like Cabela's), you can cook like 20 burgers at a time, it's absolutely insane! I make epic breakfasts on it. Plus it folds up for transport, which is really handy. We use it for all of our family events & holidays:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYN0438
   
   A better version is from Tejas Smokers. They make camping stove carts that have burners built-in & have griddles available separately. They get super hot, downside is the cost: you can easily spend $700 on a nice setup.
   
   https://tejassmokers.com/Camp-Stove-Carts/23
   
   Oh yeah, Blackstone did just come out with a compact outdoor griddle which can run off those little one-pound green tanks if you want. They go for around $99 ($79 if you have an Ace Hardware near you). I have not tried this, but it gets good reviews. I'd be curious to see what kind of temperatures it can achieve:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Blackstone-Portable-Griddle-Outdoors-Camping/dp/B0195MZHBK
   
   So that's a basic introduction to the cooktops: you need some kind of decently-sized metal surface, a hi-temp burner, a smashing tool, and optionally (but recommended) a scraper. You will also want to get a strong, high-quality spatula. A good one is $32:
   
   http://www.seriouseats.com/2010/07/equipment-the-due-buoi-wide-spatula-my-new-fa.html
   
   Available here:
   
   http://www.duebuoi.it/x/uk_usd/catalog/p/spatulas~805-16x10.html
   
   If you opt for cast-iron, get an infrared temperature gun (doesn't work too well on shiny metal surfaces like steel tho). $17:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/
   
   A cheap digital kitchen scale is useful too, for measuring out the proper amount of meat. $14:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Ozeri-Digital-Kitchen-Capacity-Stylish/dp/B003E7AZQA/
   
   This collection of tools ensures that you have the proper workflow: a metal surface to cook on, the ability to bring the surface to a high temperature (and know what that temperature is for precise control), the ability to weigh your meat so you can pre-measure out what you need, the ability to smash the burger down, and also to properly scrape it off. Again, it's not rocket science, but if you have a wussy grill or a crappy surface or weak smashing/scraping tools, you're gonna have a bad time. You just need the right setup to pump burgers out fast!
   
   So on to prep. For ultra-smash, you do a pair of 2-ounce ground beef balls. In the tutorial above, they use a mix of meat for 25% fat. I just grab some regular 80/20 ground plus some salt & pepper. For regular smash burgers, do a single 4-ounce ball (optionally 5 ounces...useful if you have a big cooktop for a bunch of burgers at one time & are only doing a single patty per burger). The nice thing is, there's no special prep required for the meat, so you can make all of your burger balls ahead of time. If you have 10 people & are doing ultra-smash, let's say half of them get 2 burgers, so 15 burgers total, or thirty 2oz balls. If you have 20 people & are doing regular smash, again with half getting an extra burger, that's 30 burgers total or thirty 4 or 5oz balls. So that takes care of prep...adjust as needed. If you're feeding mostly dudes, you'll want to add more seconds (and thirds) to the equation.
   
   There are a variety of buns you can get. Crap buns will make for a crap burger. See if you can find potato buns or brioche buns. Those are pretty soft. Buns aren't overly hard to make, but I have yet to find a decent recipe that takes under 40 minutes, so I usually only doing fancy home-baked buns for my family rather than a crowd. Buying 5 or 10 pounds of ground beef & making smash balls out of them will take you all of ten minutes, but making buns can take forever. Here's a good recipe if you want to try it out tho:
   
   http://smittenkitchen.com/blog/2009/07/light-brioche-burger-buns/
   
   Or this, if you wanna get crazy:
   
   http://www.seriouseats.com/2015/05/fresh-cemita-rolls-mexican-sandwich-burger-bun-bread-food-lab-recipe.html
   
   Or this one, nom nom nom:
   
   http://amazingribs.com/recipes/breads/brioche_hamburger_buns.html
   
   But eh, just hit up Sam's/Coscto/BJ's and buy some hamburger buns in bulk, problem solved. Or find a local bakery that has good rolls. There's a good shootout of buns here:
   
   http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2011/04/the-burger-lab-whats-the-best-bun-for-my-burger-taste-test.html
   
   (continued)

If you have two, why don't you do one as a perfect standing rib roast and play with the second one?

I'll get to the playful ideas for the second hunk of meat later.


Part One - an instructional on making prime rib:

Keep in mind, for some of my less essential estimations, I'm totally guessing. Just use your brain.

My procedure was born from the standing rib roast episode of Good Eats. I couldn't find the whole episode for you online, but [here's a clip from it] (http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/dry-aged-standing-rib-roast-with-sage-jus-recipe/standing-rib-roast.html) in case you're interested.

Basically, the trick is to take your time with it. This method is foolproof if you're patient and if you give your meat a day to hang out in a salt and pepper rub-down, a couple hours to get to room temperature, and a chunk of time to roast in a very low oven.

Why a low oven if you can reach medium rare in less time with a hot oven? Because a low oven will help keep the whole mass of the meat at roughly the same temperature while it cooks. The thermal assault of a hot oven would decimate the roast's outer inches before beginning to cook the raw center. Look at [one] (http://www.heroacres.com/heroacres/PrimeRib.jpg) and [two] (http://literalminded.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/prime_rib.jpg).

As for special equipment, you'll need [something like this] (http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-1470-Digital-Cooking-Thermometer/dp/B00004XSC5/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1411674292&sr=1-1&keywords=digital+thermometer+probe). Don't rely on interrupting the cooking and sticking it every 20 minutes once it gets close. This isn't a horror movie. The less you stab it, the less blood, the better.

So here's how it'll go:

A day or two before your dinner (I prefer two), season the meat.

Rub the meat (giggity) with salt, pepper, and whatever else you want. I like garlic and mustard powder. Classic flavor combos exist for a reason. Wrap it in saran and toss it in the fridge to let that salty/savory crust develop. The seasoning needs to support the otherwise monotonous roast, so don't miss this opportunity as step 1 to getting an A+ crust on there.

When you wake up the day of your prime rib dinner, take it out of the fridge. Let the roast come to room temperature (about 2 hrs), rub it with a mix of non-extra-virgin olive oil and some good mustard. This'll help that crust we've been talking about.

Insert the meat thermometer at center-mass. Set the device to alert you at your desired temperature. Count on about degrees of carryover cooking once it's out of the oven. I set mine last time to 127 I think. Put it in your favorite ovenware, cover it with foil to aid even-heating, and put it in a cold oven. Set that oven to 200 degrees, or 250 if you're feeling pressed for time.

Once it beeps, let it sit on the counter. You'll notice there isn't much juice for gravy. That's cause being gentle kept the proteins intact and the juices inside. Fear not, gravy and Yorkshire Pudding lovers-- juices will flow soon. When you're an hour away from dinner, crank your oven to 500. Turn it on convection mode if you have it.

Once it's up to temp, stick the roast in and keep your eye on it. It helps if your window is clean, cause opening and closing will partially reset the searing process (you want to leave the inside at perfectly medium rare). Start checking after 5 minutes, then every 2. Once you get that golden-brown/brown, you're there. Pull it. Let it rest for another 15-20. Enjoy.

Part Two - playing with your meat:

Lots of cool ideas on this thread already. This will speak to some of that.

If you wanted to go the Korean bbq or Philly Cheesesteak route, a nice trick is to partially freeze the roast so that your knife can slice it thinly. It's a restaurant trick for carpaccio, but it's super-useful here. Then have fun on YouTube and Google, weigh the pro's and con's of all your options, and learn how to make the most kickass cheesesteak possible. Then tell me about it. Or don't. Not like I've told youanything about food.

The other obvious route is to make steaks. If you wanna make that a project, try dry-aging the roast in your fridge and cutting steaks out of that. I love dry-aging my own beef. If you have a beer fridge in the garage or basement like I do, it's a pretty damn easy task. Just put it on a non-reactive rack and let it sit in the open air.

I have no idea if it helps, but I generously sprinkle salt under the rack to make sure any excess moisture is being sucked out of the air instead of feeding mold.

It'll smell a little beefy and maybe a little funky, but that's fine. Trim the crusty edges and treat them like normal steaks. Be careful, cause their reduced water content (flavor dilution, as dry-aging aficionados know it) make them cook faster.

Have fun!

your BP isn't just thin, she's emaciated. you need to put some weight on her, but you need to do so gradually. you also really need to feed her f/t before she gets injured by live prey. if your enclosure is meeting her needs, and you're not causing her stress by handling her unnecessarily, she should eat f/t for you just fine. i guarantee she wasn't eating f/t at petsmart because she was stressed due to poor husbandry.

i'm going to dump a TON of information on you. some of it may be redundant, some of it may be useful. first, three detailed care sheets, a tub setup tutorial, and product recommendations to cover all types of enclosures. then i'll give you a breakdown of how i handled my emaciated BP, simultaneously putting weight on her safely and switching her from mice to rats. you'll fine more generalized feeding tips in the third care sheet. read everything thoroughly, then come back with any questions.

since i don't see any mention of what your enclosure is like, i'll start with this: glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link.

• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
  
  now for a suggested feeding regimen. if your BP will genuinely only eat live right now, you can safely start her on appropriately sized rat pinkies/fuzzies/pups. if their eyes haven't opened yet, they won't be able to bite her hard enough to cause injuries. once she fills out a little and can more comfortably skip a few meals, you should start working on switching her to f/t.
  
  at the time of rescue, my BP's weight was 140g, meals were one fuzzy mouse with an estimated weight of 5g, meal schedule was "once every few weeks". here's a breakdown of the meal sizes, schedule, and switch from mice to rats i used. this is all f/t, so dealing with live will be a little different.
  
  
• week 1: settling in.
  
• week 2: one fuzzy mouse, 5g, ~3% of BP's weight.
  
• week 3: two fuzzy mice, total 8g, ~5%.
  
• week 4: one fuzzy mouse, 5g. one rat pinky scented with the mouse, 5g. total 10g, ~7%.
  
• week 5: BP weight 155g. one hopper mouse, 10g. one scented rat pinky, 6g. total 17g, ~10%.
  
• week 6: one adult mouse, 14g. one scented rat pinky, 6g. total 19g, ~13%.
  
• week 7: one fuzzy mouse, 4g. one scented rat pup, 20g. total 24g, ~15%.
  
• week 8: BP weight 160g. one scented rat pup, 24g, ~15%.
  
  i continued scenting her rats for another couple of months, but that was more because it was easy [i have a corn who eats mice] than it being necessary. she was readily eating unscented rats within five months. a couple years later, i usually don't even have to warm up her rats beyond room temperature, though she does require some dangling with the tongs as she won't eat anything she hasn't "killed".

Red light isn't good, you'll want a heat mat (MAKE SURE you have a thermostat for it or it will get too hot) and possibly a ceramic heat emitter (also needs a thermostat) for air heat. What are the temps and humidity and how do you measure them? Glass tanks usually don't hold humidity well and often aren't good for bps. You need at least 2 good hides, one for each side. They should be snug and enclosed with only one opening, preferably identical, half logs don't work.

Someone should come by with a really good care sheet, read it, it has some great info. I know this might be a lot of information, but having a good setup is important and will save you headaches in the future.

Edit: I found the care sheet. Credit to u/_ataraxia.

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• the basics and then some
  
• common problems
  
• feeding problems
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. They have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

Buy a small one, at walmart, for like 30-40 bucks. Use it outside. More expensive fryers are mostly for aesthetics and in my experience dont fry any better. You might however like name brand stuff that has your favorite "Kitchen aid" logo that you would like to match to the rest of your kitchen. If this is you, then spend the extra money if you want. I personally just want bang for the buck, and i don't leave my fryer out on my counter as a showpiece or anything. Others might tell you im full of shit and their $80 or $150 dollar fryer is much better, which is fine but unless you plan on frying a ton of stuff, and you need a ton of room to fry large batches of stuff, a small reasonably priced fryer will do just fine if you maintain it well and keep it clean. Here are some examples:

• $30.00 (Farberware 2.5L / 4 stars on 93 reviews / 1 basket) http://www.walmart.com/ip/FARBERWARE-2.5L-Single-Deep-Fryer-Stainless-Steel/22866798
  
  
• $39.99 (Farberware 4.0L / 4.5 stars on 189 reviews / Dual Baskets) http://www.walmart.com/ip/FARBERWARE-4L-Dual-Deep-Fryer-Stainless-Steel/22866797
  
  Reason? Well, a small fryer lets you fry in small batches. Unless you have a large family and need to fry a ton of stuff, this is the way to go. Sure, you might have larger temperature changes due to the size ( when you drop food in it drops the temp sometimes complicating or even ruining your cooking ) but the small size lets you change the oil easier, clean it easier, and store it easier.
  
  Because lets face it, hopefully your not planning on eating a TON of fried food. Sometimes making some cheese sticks, jalapenos, mushrooms, french fries, wings, etc is great, but it shouldn't be a majority of your eating experience. Unless you don't care about personal health.
  
  ProTip: use it outside. Reasoning: Your house will smell like a french fry. Plus, grease flies out of the fryer and gets on everything, and it will get on everything in your house. The stench will permeate your couch, carpets, clothes, and more. You will leave home to go to work, run errands, etc... and you'll come home to that nice, greasy egg roll smell as you open the front door.
  
  Its not pleasant. I learned this, and started frying outside. I also got a small fryer that had great reviews and wasn't super expensive. The parts, except the heating element, are all dishwasher safe. Also you will save money by not buying, or buying INTO, the whole sealed fryer with carbon filter blah blah blah. If you plan on keeping a fryer that features that indoors, it'll still smell. You still have to open the fryer at some point while cooking, which again, makes your house smell. And I HATE that smell in my home. Ive had a $120 dollar fryer and it performed just like my $30 dollar model, just looked super snazzy which i don't give a flying f** about since its not a counter-top item that gets daily use in my household.
  
  My .02 anyways. I hate the house smelling like a french fry, and a small fryer is easy to store in your garage, easy to clean and operate. Plus i have a small 2 year old daughter and since i only use it outside on the porch, shes never around it which minimizes any injuries ( that could be catastrophic... grease burns / fires are serious biz )
  
  At the end of the day, a fryer is a simple device. Heating Element, temp knobs, bucket for grease, and a basket with a lid. There are more expensive options, but your paying for brand name, looks, and you might want to drop 75-100 bucks for one that has a digital readout that can* be more accurate.
  
  I myself have a digital thermometer in my kitchen i use for steaks and such ( any good cook should have one imho ) but it also helps me verify temp. With that said, i have i think the $30 dollar model i posted and its temp control is spot on. If you do want a digital one, i personally would just get a non digital one, then invest in a thermometer since you can use it for SO many things, including your new deep fryer. I also have a "laser thermometer" that works as well and can be used again for many many things in your home.
  
  
• $16.98 (Nubee Handheld Digital Laser Thermometer) http://www.amazon.com/Nubee-Temperature-Non-contact-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00CVHIJDK/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1418956988&sr=1-1&keywords=nubee+thermometer+gun
  
  
• $14.46 (Comark Digital Handheld Pocket Thermometer)
  http://www.amazon.com/Comark-Instrument-Digital-Thermometer-Accuracy/dp/B001U59MDA/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1418957150&sr=1-1&keywords=comark+PDT300
  
  I have both styles of thermometers, and i use my pen style a lot ( its like the bottom one, but mine is white and i got it at a local grocery store for about 10 bucks... has a hold button but is pretty much the same deal )
  
  Hope I helped you. Good luck and be safe!

Here's u/ataraxia's classic link dump I found on a other post. Although the informstion is written for bps (most common snake people have trouble with it seems- mostly due to the humedity) but the suggestions could definitely help you for the humedity aspect needed for your boa.


You should definitely read it through.

i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

I highly recommend you read the below information. Guaranteed that you'll be completely redoing your set up after reading all of this.

Credit: u/_ataraxia

The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. Read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry, due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. Wood enclosures can also be suitable, if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. I'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
  
  If you set up a good enclosure, and the temperatures and humidity are correct with no special treatment, the most work you need to do is feed every 1-2 weeks, spot clean the substrate and clean the water dish as needed [once or twice a week], and do a full enclosure cleaning every 1-6 months.

I am a bot programmed to automatically provide the following content by /u/_Ataraxia when summoned. Link to the most recent version of this content here

The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

Ball Python Care Guides

• the basics and then some
  
• common problems
  
• feeding problems
  
  Set-up Recommendations
  
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. some popular brands include animal plastics [most recommended], boaphile plastics [i personally have these and like them], reptile basics, and vision cages, though you'll find many more with a quick google search. many people will use a tub at first and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as pro products [most recommended] or reptile basics.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
  
  Copypasta version 7/24/2018 (c) /u/_Ataraxia
  
  I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

TL;DR - Go by weight for flour, there's a method to figuring out how much 1 cup of your flour weighs. Yeast temperature description is too subjective, again use exact numbers.

---------

Water temperature for yeast: between 95-115 degrees Fahrenheit (35-46 Celsius) depending on the kind of yeast. Usually dry yeast activated with water + sugar needs about 105-115F. See here for some details. I believe you fall in the 105-115F range. edit: I personally have had luck with the 105F temperature.
>
Your description of "being able to barely handle the temperature" is very subjective. Use a thermometer and always have a consistent temperature when making your breads!

Get a simple digital thermometer that goes up to the boiling point of water I use one of these types, they're cheap and they're good enough.


--------------

Flour: I hate being too strict myself but a consistent weight is the key (not volume). When you scoop flour you compress it into the cup you're scooping with, making each scoop very different from the rest. What I do is I carefully measure sifted flour for a particular brand and type of flour (different types weight differently) and I write it down on the package or on a reference sheet (with brand/type). Once I have the weight, I can look at recipes that use volume or weight (since most volume recipes mean sifted cups, not scooped cups) and all I need is reach the desired weight by looking at a scale:

Needed:

• take a flour sifter if you have one see here, or a mesh strainer like this
  
  
• 2 bowls, one large, one medium
  
• 1 precise electric (not spring) scale (grams or fraction of ounces) like one of these. They sell ones with a bowl that fits on top but honestly, the flat ones work better for me because as long as you can zero-out the scale, you can use your own bowl that fits on the flat scale.
  
  How to measure how much 4 cups of your favorite flour weigh:
  
  Why 4 cups? because 4 is enough for a good estimate (margin of error is spread over 4 cups instead of just weighing a single cup) and you can then divide the result by 4 to get a single cup's weight!
  The Lineup from left to right
  
  Bag of flour - Large Bowl with a measuring cup in it - Scale with medium bowl on it
  
  
• Take the large bowl next to your flour bag
  
• put a measuring cup inside the large bowl,
  
• put the medium bowl on the scale
  
• zero-out the scale
  
• with your right hand hold the colander/sifter above the large bowl/measuring cup (don't let it touch)
  
• with your left hand, scoop a cup or two of flour into the colander/sifter
  
• sift the flour (or gently tap the colander) until the measuring cup inside the large bowl is overflowing
  
• take the measuring cup out when it's overfilled and with a knife, scrape carefully so that your measuring cup is precisely even across the top and completely measuring 1 cup of flour
  
• take this cup of sifted flour and put it in the medium bowl
  
• do this 3 more times.
  
  Your scale will tell you how much 4 cups of sifted flour (for that brand) weigh!
  
  Write the 4 cups weight on a reference sheet along with the brand and type of flour (example: King Arthur Unbleached bread flour see here). I also write the weight/cup conversion.
  
  Next time you make bread, go by weight and you can exactly replicate your success or amend your attempts by knowingly changing an exact amount.
  
  EDIT: It's late and I completely forgot to mention that your video was really nice, a bit long and could use some editing but I enjoyed listening to you talking through the recipe! Good luck and happy baking!

Sturdy step stool ($40) - not the rickety tubular kitchen chair ones, I mean one where you can stand on the top. a Buy it for Life item, not inexpensive, but safe. https://www.amazon.com/Louisville-Ladder-AS3002-6966014-2-Foot/dp/B00182TWL2

Leatherman multi tool (around $50), which i keep in the junk bowl because I can never find a screwdriver fast enough. Pricey new, less expensive when you buy it second hand or in a pawn shop. they don't really break, but you do have to clean and oil them once a year. https://www.amazon.com/LEATHERMAN-Wingman-Multitool-Stainless-Steel/dp/B005DI0XM4/

Cordless drill (under $50), mine basically has the screw driver bit in it 90% of the time. the rest of the time I drill lots of pilot holes. pay attention to the battery... if you can get one with a battery that is shared by other tools in the line, then it is easily replaceable and if you buy another tool in that line you can swap batteries. I like to have 1 battery in the charger and one in the device. https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Cordless-Driver-BDCDD12C/dp/B0111N8L7I/

Spirit, bubble or torpedo level. (under $10) the Hanging kit usually contains just the wires and hooks, but you need a small spirit level for hanging pictures and shelves evenly. doesn't matter the brand they all work the same https://www.amazon.com/WilFiks-Leveling-Resistant-Different-Visibility/dp/B07M62GJYP/

Small tool boxes vary in quality. I don't know if this is for you or someone else. But don't buy anything unless it's a NAME BRAND, cheap metal tools bend and can break with too much torque. Even the Stanley line that Walmart sells isn't fabulous, but it's better than a nameless brand. I don't like SETS of tools, but you need to start someplace, buy GOOD tools one at a time, I love finding $$$ tools at thrift stores. https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-94-248-Piece-Homeowners-Tool/dp/B000UHMITE/(i bought a cheap socket set 4 years ago to replace my stolen ones and they already have rust)

Bucket organizer. (around $15) If you buy a SET of tools, take the plastic blow molded container and put it in the recycling. You will never bother putting the tools back in and when you get more tools they won't fit. Bucket Organizers are pockets that fit around a 5 gallon bucket. You shove your tools into the pockets and everything else in the middle. And keep it in the bottom of your closet and carry it to where you need the tools. https://www.amazon.com/Bucket-Boss-10030-Bucketeer-BTO/dp/B00GK4TOWK

Tack Hammer. (under $15) You won't need a big 22 oz hammer, but a smaller 16 oz one with a normal handled and then a Tack hammer, these have a narrow head and sometimes are magnetic and hold the nail in place. Tack hammers are easier to use for hanging things exactly where you want them. https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-54-304-5-Ounce-Magnetic-Hammer/dp/B00002X1XD

Stud finder.(under $20) uses a battery, and lets you know where the studs are behind drywall. BEST PURCHASE EVER. https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Stud-Finder-Wall-Detector/dp/B07VLDTVFQ/ any brand will work fine.

Digital Infared Thermometer (under $20) Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun - ALSO BEST PURCHASE EVER... works in the kitchen for food and oven temp, fridge temp, and for locating drafts and cold spots around doors and windows. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G

Toilet Plunger - the sort with the extra bit on the end. https://www.amazon.com/Get-Bats-Out-Plunger-Bathroom/dp/B00ODD5MD0 you do NOT want to be waiting around for someone to unblock your toilet. It may be disgusting but scoop out some of what's in the toilet before you start plunging, it's less disgusting than having to mop it off the floor. You want the plunger that makes a seal around the bottom.

BUCKET. (under $10) mine is constantly in use, i keep it in the tub and toss wet things into it. I have gone through EVERY TYPE on offer...I was so sick of plastic buckets, that warped and stained, where the handles ripped out. But the BEST and cheapest one I have ever found is a flat back duraflex bucket for watering horses. Not kidding. Made of a hard polyethylene these things are designed to be flung around and stepped on by 2000 lb animals. https://www.amazon.com/LITTLE-GIANT-Flat-Back-Dura-Flex-Plastic/dp/B000HHLHPS/ these are cheap if you buy them in a feed store, but even with the shipping on Amazon it is WELL WORTH the money. You will need a bucket when you empty the back of the toilet tank to change the flushing flapper or gasket, and you will need it when you empty the commode itself, if you have to change out the wax seal underneath.

Blanket hangers. (6 for $27) yeah this is obscure, but when I moved I lost a LOT of storage space. These saved my sanity. I use them to hang up quilts and sleeping bags in the back of the closet OFF SEASON. I also use them to hang blankets, sheets curtains and stuff once they come out of the laundry aren't quite dry. I didn't even know there was such a thing before now I wouldn't give them up. https://www.amazon.com/Stock-Your-Home-Comforter-Organization/dp/B00EUG51JU

Flashlight. ($30-50) I've written about these before. Until I bought a GOOD one, I had no idea how bad the others were. Cheap flashlights are great to have scattered about in the cellar, or in the junk drawer. but if you really want TO SEE, get a great flashlight. I gifted myself one for christmas one year and I love it. It hangs by the door and if I am going to be out very late or the weather is bad, I shove it in my bag. It will also illuminate Well past the end of the porch and into the yard if I hear a noise. https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Carded-SabreLite-Flashlight-Yellow/dp/B01CKAIYV4 any very good brand will do, but I found Maglites to be dangerously useless.

Since I have a set meal plan, I cook most of my food on Sunday evenings to eat for lunch and dinner throughout the week. I usually bake four chicken breasts at a time. Been doing it a while now, and I've gotten really, really good at it.

Here's how you do it:

• Take a rectangular glass, or "Pyrex", baking dish and lightly drizzle olive oil into the dish. You can use lower-calorie cooking sprays, but I like to keep things full-calorie, unprocessed and all-natural. Plus, olive oil will add lots of flavor and it is good for your heart.
  
  
• Place four boneless/skinless chicken breasts into the dish, and slide them around a little bit upon placing them into the dish to make sure there is good oil coverage to prevent sticking/burning.
  
  
• Salt and pepper to taste. I highly recommend using Kosher salt. It will stick better, it is easier to apply, and the crystals are larger so you can visually gauge how much salt you are applying. Also, grow the fuck up and use real, fresh-cracked black pepper. Your taste buds will thank you.
  
  
• From here you can add flavor using herbs and spices. I switch it up depending on my mood, but my go-to herb/spice blend includes oregano, marjoram, basil, thyme, cayenne pepper and paprika. You can add even more flavor by using onion powder, garlic powder, lemon pepper, etc. The choice is yours. I've even used some masala spice blends for a more Middle-Eastern flavor profile. The point is you are adding flavor without adding calories when you use herbs and spices instead of breading, cheese, etc.
  
  
• Optional Step: Drizzle olive oil on the chicken breasts after you have salted, peppered, and seasoned it to your liking. I find this adds even more flavor and gives the final product a more satisfying, non-dry texture when the chicken is done. However, we are trying to cut calories, so do what you like.
  
  
• THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP FOR COOKING JUICY, SATISFYING CHICKEN BREASTS --> Buy your goddamned self a thermometer. Said thermometer should have a digital read-out with in-oven probe so that you can monitor the internal temperature of the chicken while it's cooking.
  
  
• NOTE: Everyone who has my baked chicken always asks the same questions: "Where'd you buy the chicken? Is it gourmet? How did you marinate it? It's so juicy, are you sure it's not undercooked?" I'm 28, and I'm convinced that the old-wives tales and paranoia about disease-laden meat from the 60's and 70's has created a generation of parents who were so worried about getting sick that they were willing to forgo the natural juiciness and tender texture of chicken for assurance that they had cooked the chicken enough to not get sick. Well I'm sick of it. By a thermometer. End of dry chicken forever.
  
  
• Pre-heat oven to 425 and bake the four breasts (@ dead center of your oven) for about 22-27 minutes, or until an internal temperature of 165-170° F (remember, ovens vary. the thermometer takes out all of the guesswork). Also, make sure your thermometer probe is inserted into the largest breast at its thickets point, and don't let the tip of the probe be pushed in so far that it touches the bottom of the baking dish (you will get false readings).
  
  
• Next, when the chicken is DONE (see note #3 below), take it out of the oven, place it on a heat-safe surface, and cover with heavy-duty tin foil for at least 10 minutes. This step is important. It allows the juices that were pushed out of the breast muscle fiber during the cooking process to be re-absorbed into the meat. If you're a paranoid individual who needs their chicken to hit a minimum internal temperature of 180°F because the USDA tells you, do not worry. During the resting phase of the chicken, the residual heat in the dish and external flesh of the chicken breast will continue to "cook" the chicken, allowing it to coast up to about 180°F. Go ahead, try me. Temp the chicken through the tin foil right after you pull the chicken. I dare you.
  
  Additional Notes:
  
  

1. Acidic marinades will dry out your chicken. I don't like them, but if you must, don't marinate for too long (maybe 30 minutes to an hour . . . use good judgement).
   
   
2. Brining your chicken prior to cooking will increase flavor and juiciness.
   
   
3. Remember, time is not your master, you are time's master. Clocks, pendulums, hourglasses and the like have no place telling you when to eat your chicken. That's your thermometer's job. My favorite culinary saying is "It's done when it's done".
   
   
   TL;DR -- Buy one of THESE. You're welcome.
   
   
   Edit: Formatting
   

First of all. It's very good you recognize that you need help in learning how to care for the snake.

Second, here is a big link dump created by another regular user u/_ataraxia all credit for this goes to her.

the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

Some gift ideas that have gone over well in the past:

• Standing flashlight - great for a DIYer
  
• Turkish Towel - I use it heavily when traveling. It's a plane wrap, a picnic blanket, a quick coverup, seriously worth packing.
  
• An amazing spatula. I love it. Great for any cooks or bakers.
  
• If you have an older female relative who likes kitchen stuff, go to Walmart and grab some stuff from the Pioneer Woman. It's cute, it's functional and my mother-in-law loves the stuff. Ree annoys me but she makes it easy to Christmas shop.
  
• Teen girls can be tricky. Buy a pair or two of BaubleBar (or BaubleBar for Target) earrings, buy this earring case and now you have a 2 for 1.
  
• You should buy some Yak sticks for your dog. Costco also has some great Nylabone and Kong gift packs.
  
• Every adult male I know loves this temperature gun.
  
• Every newlywed lady I know wants the Chrissy Teigen cookbooks.
  
• This throw is the softest thing ever. I have 3.
  
• Cute couple's gift (also works for a family member who is bringing someone to Christmas who you feel obligated to gift to but you know little about them): Picnic blanket. You can even add a basket and fill it with wine or cocoa and cookies. Or just gift them a gift card to a cozy restaurant.
  
• This Calvin and Hobbes collection is the best gift I received last year. And it's cheaper than it used to be.
  
  Also, here's my link to a review on here of Etsy/ArtfullyWalls/Society6 artists in case you want to shop for yourself/others with the upcoming sales.

u/ataraxia has amazing information for ball pythons. You should definitely read it through. Glass tanks are not ideal for Bps, so this should help. Here is her normal dump of information I took from another post.

i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

Almost every episode of Good Eats

Watch them all, even the ones that deal with non paleo foods because the techniques are all solid. There are three basic cooking methods you need to worry about. On the stove, in the oven and in the microwave.


For the stove, all you need is a good cast iron skillet, but I recommend having a teflon pan as well. The iron will cook everything you can imagine. I like having the teflon for eggs mainly, iron will do eggs as well, but it can take some practice getting the temperature and lubrication levels correct. Teflon is much more forgiving. I have not used any of the newer nonstick pans so I cannot comment on those.

For the oven, get a aluminum half sheet pan and a oven safe cooling rack. Also get some sort of glass dish or casserole. Always wrap your sheet pan in aluminum foil, or line it with parchment paper when you cook with it. Makes clean up so much easier. Always grease your casserole dish. Baking, roasting, broiling are all pretty simple. Follow the recipes, and keep your eye on it. Get a probe thermometer and it'll tell you when your meat is cooked to your desired doneness.

For the microwave, all you need is a microwave safe plate, plastic wrap and some parchment paper. You can steam so many vegetables just using the microwave, it's ridiculously easy.

I hope this helps out, feel free to PM any questions. Don't forget a good sharp knife too. I still can't stress enough to just watch all the Good Eats episodes, they really have a lot of good techniques and explain the science behind it all. And if you ever want and/or get to cheat, there are some pretty awesome cheats there too.

EDIT: Forget to add this It is a great article on some really cheap tools you should pick up.

Alright then. Well first thing I'll say is, most canned food sucks balls, but some that don't include:

Beef stew, beenie weenies, and of course, corned beef hash.

Skip the hot dogs and go for Italian sausages. Don't get those confused with smoked sausages, while good, they're not as good as italian's.

You can cook those just like a hot dog, although they take a little longer. Hotdogs are precooked, these are raw pork. So ensure they're well done :-D

Another method is to cook these in a pan with diced tomatoes, peppers, onions, herbs etc.

One of my favorite camping recipes is chicken. You can cook it just like a baked potato. So at least one day before camping go buy a whole chicken (at least one..) and some heavy duty tinfoil.

Come home, slice the chicken in half long ways. You'll need a nice sturdy knife for that since you gotta cut through the bone. Lay down a big piece of tin foil and put half the chicken on it. Season to your liking.

You can go simple and just add salt, pepper and butter. You can add vegetables like corn, peas, carrots, onions, etc. You can do BBQ sauce and hot peppers or mix up some home made salsa (slice up tomato, onion, pepper, and salt) for it as well.

You can add garlic, basil, thyme, oregano, rosemary, taragon or whatever for extra flavor.

Once you're done seasoning just wrap the tinfoil up then add 2 or 3 more wraps. Really seal it up good so the juices don't leak out. Then toss it in the freezer. This way when you take it camping, it's already frozen and you don't necessarily have to have ice to keep it cool, by the time it's dinner time it'll be partially thawed and ready to cook.

So you just get a good fire going, let it burn down a bit so it's not roaring flames but has enough hot coals to last for awhile and toss the chicken in, turn it occasionally. After an hour or so check it with a meat thermometer.

With any meats, it's a good idea to use a meat thermometer to ensure it's cooked properly.

Some other foods include fish fillets, hamburgers, steak, pork chops and so on. Pretty much any meat :-D

Just bring an old flying pan that's about had it or pick up a cheap used one at your local resale store and just toss it when the trip is over.

Get a fire going, throw a grill over top and put the pan on top of that. Add a little cooking oil or spray and cook away.

Reposting the famous u/ _ataraxia info:

Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• the basics and then some
  
• common problems
  
• feeding problems
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. They have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

Sounds like you were getting outdated or flat-out incorrect information and those 'experienced snake owners' are likewise misinformed. There are very few snakes that legitimately have evolved to thrive on sand-based substrate (irony being the Sand Boa is not one of them; they live in sandy soil which is very different composition than straight sand). The Ball Python is native to the svannah/jungles of Sub-Saharan Africa. Its dirt, soil, and burrows. Not a majority or even significant amount of sand.

Additionally, if I extrapolate correctly from this singular picture, your BP is also in a glass enclosure and has a log-style hide. The former makes keeping humidity in the 55~80% range a difficult exercise, and the latter, is a stressor as BPs do best with a hide that has a single-entrance or is cave-like; the more points of contact, the better, and a single entrance means they can feel safer.

I'm going to steal _ataraxia's ball python dump and toss it below:

i'm going to dump a bunch of links to get you on the right track. the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
  
• http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter [CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

> What kind of spices go with what? Right now, I'm just putting some salt, MSG, soy sauce, garlic powder, and red pepper flakes into most all meats I make because I really enjoy it. I'd like to know what else is good and for what purposes. Also I'm really sad that I haven't been able to use my cinnamon.

http://www.spicesinc.com/p-510-what-spices-go-with-what-meat.aspx

>Why does my chicken get sticky when I cover the skillet while it's frying? It's great and all, but I just want to know why and whether or not I can apply the same principle to other meats.

Not sure what you mean, generally what happens when you put a lid on is that your chicken starts steaming and frying at the same time. The excess moisture in the air would make the chicken skin go soft. Perhaps that is the 'sticky' you are talking about? I will often put the lid on something that isn't cooking well in the pan and needs heat from all sides. It is fairly rare I will ever put the lid on frying meat. I will usually put the lid on sauces to stop them evaporating more water and thickening.

>Right now I'm limited to ground beef and chicken breasts for meats. I was wondering if anyone could recommend some cheap/quick recipes using those that I could steal to diversify my cooking.

Steak is easy, sausages are easy, fish fillets are easy, cubed chuck for stews/curry/casserole is easy, slow cooker recipes are generally really easy (foolproof) and come with excellent results. Just google recipes, if the picture looks delicious then read the recipe steps and if you think you can do it then give it a go. Cooking is fairly forgiving of mistakes so don't be afraid to try.

>Also, does anyone have any good guides to dealing with dough? I've been meaning to experiment and have fun with dough (noodles, breads, pastries?).

I don't like making dough so I'll let someone else field this one.

>And a guide for pork. My better-cook-than-I-am friend keeps telling me I'll literally die if I don't cook pork right, but he's a pansy, and I like pork.

Pork is fine. Get yourself an instant read thermometer and use that to avoid over and under cooking meats. After a while you'll just be able to tell it is cooked by poking the meat with your finger. Use the thermometer until then.

http://www.amazon.com/Fastest-Accurate-Water-Resistant-High-Performance-Thermometer/dp/B00GRFHXVQ/ref=zg_bs_289809_4

http://www.fsis.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsis/topics/food-safety-education/get-answers/food-safety-fact-sheets/safe-food-handling/safe-minimum-internal-temperature-chart/ct_index

>Is there a way I can use potatoes in my frying pan adventures? From all that I've read, people seem to want to boil them before using them for anything.

Generally a good idea to bake/boil/parboil before frying. There are some dishes you don't need to do this like a potato latke. They are easy and yummy. Look up recipes on google.

How are you crushing your grains? Do you have a mill? I would suggest buying a $5 feeler gauge and setting the gap to 0.037. That should get you very close to 75-80% efficiency.

Also, go buy this thermometer, it's basically the go-to many people here use if you don't splurge for the thermapen. Fast, cheap, accurate and waterproof(!!): http://www.amazon.com/CDN-DTQ450X-ProAccurate-Quick-Read-Thermometer/dp/B0021AEAG2

I've never used brewers friend. If it seems like it does all the calcs for you, great. If not, go buy beersmith for $30 and google brulosopher's beersmith setup videos - you will have nearly perfectly predictable accuracy going into your brew day.

For your process, It's pretty simple:

• Add your water 5-10 degrees hotter than your strike temp (strike temp is the temp before the grain hits it, when you add grain it will drop to your set mash temp). This is to pre-heat your mash tun. Stir it around until the temp drops to your strike temp, then add your grain.
  
  
• Add grain and try to prevent and balls of grain from sticking together, this can kill your efficiency. Once it's all added, give it a good stir up and double check for clumps and eliminate any you find. Close the lid, wait 5 minutes, stir and check temp. You should be bang on your mash temp, or extremely close. If you are way higher for some reason stir until it drops but the only reason you would be higher is if your calcs were off (grain temp is a huge factor here, enter that data point into beersmith if you've forgotten to).
  
  
• Stir every 20 minutes, just to be sure everything is being soaked properly, until your mash time is up.
  
  
• Drain and re-add gently to your tun (called vorlaufing) until the wort runs as clear as you can get it, and drain the tun, this is called your first runnings.
  
  
• Add your sparge water, likely at around 160-170 degrees. Give it a good stir, let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes to resettle the grain bed.
  
  
• Vorlauf again until the wort runs as clear as you can get it, and drain the tun into your first runnings.
  
  
• Give this collected wort a good stir before taking a reading so you aren't accidentally taking a sample from just your second runnings. If using a hydrometer, make sure you are taking the reading at the correct temperature!!! This is huge. Your wort is hot, it needs to be room temp for the hydro to take a correct reading.
  
  
• MEASURE YOUR EFFICIENCY. If you did everything above, you now have an idea of what you can expect for next time, put your efficiency into beer smith and it will calculate how much grain you need to hit your numbers next time. Your first few batches are kind of guesswork but after 2 or 3 batches you should be hitting very close to the same efficiency numbers (as long as you aren't doing some crazy high ABV beers or whatever, which will be much lower efficiency by their nature).
  
  Hope this helps.

So I don’t know exactly how much I’ve spent on my beardie since he was given to me with almost everything I needed to care for him, but I can give you the basics.

First off, for the flooring you can use paper towels to start, or contact cabinet paper that can be found at a dollar tree. I don’t think tile is that expensive, but if you’re unable to get some at the moment those work just fine. I also suggest covering the back and sides of the tank so the beardie doesn’t see its reflection and get stressed

You’ll need at least one hide on the cooler side, which can be made from something as simple as a small cardboard box with a hole cut in it or some bricks that are arranged into a cave-like hide

A basking area can be made from bricks purchased at Lowe’s or Home Depot, or if you choose to use any driftwood/rocks you find just make sure you clean them properly

Calcium powder is also extremely important to help your beardie not develop MBD. I’m part of a Facebook bearded dragon group that suggests this brand sprinkled over greens/bugs three times a week: https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-calcium-plus/dp/166276 I poke some holes in the paper lid with a toothpick to create a shaker-type deal so I’m not wasting any calcium

I think one of the most expensive parts is the UVB light since they can get pretty pricey, and since they need to be changed every six months. Here’s an 18”, along with a fixture that could be used, but obviously with a longer tank you’ll need a longer size: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-t8-reptisun-100-uvb/dp/126590 https://www.amazon.com/GE-Fluorescent-Included-Workbench-16466/dp/B000HJ75PW again, I usually stay away from reptile brands for things such as fixtures because the cheaper version works better and lasts longer. The T8 bulb needs to be hooked into the tank, which I use zip ties to the lid but Velcro to the side also works, as long as it’s 12” away from the basking area

Heat lamp with dimmer: https://www.chewy.com/flukers-clamp-lamp-dimmer-85-in/dp/129140

Pack of 90w flood lights (make sure they’re halogen, not LED): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-90-Watt-PAR38-Halogen-Indoor-Outdoor-Flood-Light-Bulb-2-Pack-466268/205541724

Digital temp gun: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY

Light timer for both lights: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Heavy-Digital-Programmable-Timer/dp/B00MVF16JG

Vet bills and fecal tests can be pricey as well, depending on where you live. My last vet appointment with mine, which did include a test for parasites, cost around $300

While I don’t know how much I’ve spent on my beardie, I can safely estimate it’s $700+, give or take a bit. One of the most expensive is buying the greens and bugs for him. I’m growing a garden to feed him but since it’s not ready yet, I have to constantly buy him collards, turnip and mustard greens, along with various fruits and veggies which can go bad very quickly. I’m in the process of looking into buying his superworms online where you can get a better deal, but at the moment I’m paying 100 for $10 at my local exotic pet shop, which he goes through quickly.

I don’t know how old you are, but if you say you’re not old enough to properly take care of a reptile I would wait a few years or so until you get another. Bearded dragons, while more of a beginner reptile than others, still require a lot of time and effort to make sure they stay healthy. I would recommend doing a lot research throughout the next few months (look at multiple sources, don’t just listen to people at a pet store because often they don’t know what they’re talking about), and if possible, perhaps slowly start gathering the needed supplies in order to properly care for one

I hope I covered everything since reddit refreshed and deleted my first response before I finished, but if you have any more questions you can always message me (:

When buying new gear like this, I often find it worthwhile to buy the good stuff from the beginning. It'll cost more upfront, but in the long run you save money by not sinking it into gear that you're just going to upgrade away from. I know you're looking for a starter kit, so I'll outline some entry level stuff and then some recommended upgrades.

For a burr grinder, a decent entry level manual grinder is the Hario Skerton. One complaint with this is inconsistent coarse grind size, which is what you'll be using with a French Press. Orphan Espresso makes an upgrade kit that fixes this problem, but personally I feel that if you're going to spend $40 on the Skerton and $15 on the upgrade kit, you should just spend a few more bucks and get something like the Capresso Infinity. This grinder is going to be way more convenient, versatile, and consistent than the hand grinder. For one last option, there's the Baratza Encore. This is probably the best grinder you'd want for French Press, because anything better / more expensive would just be overkill as they're primarily aimed at espresso.

The Press itself isn't too important. Bodum is usually the recommended brand.

You'll also need a way to heat water. You could go with a stovetop kettle, but I think electric kettles are more convenient, and are roughly the same price anyway. You can get a pretty standard one for less than $25. But getting a gooseneck kettle is going to help control your pour better and ensure the coffee grounds are completely saturated. If you don't want to worry about getting the perfect temperature for brewing, a variable temperature kettle will take care of it for you.

Other than that, you might want a kitchen scale to get the right coffee-to-water ratio, and a thermometer to check your water temperature.

Your friend is incredibly irresponsible and should seriously be talked to. You don't dump an animal on someone who 1) isn't expecting it and 2) doesn't even know how to take care of it.

Get rid of the sand, it's not an okay bedding. You want shredded aspen or coconut mulch for a milk snake. You can find either of these options at most pet stores. Make sure you don't get pine bedding meant for rodents. Give him at least several inches of bedding because milks do love to burrow.

You want to give the snake very small, tight places to hide. They like to be squished, it makes them feel secure. So the coconut hide is too big and open to function as a safe space for a baby milk snake. Look at the pet store for small caves and hide boxes that will just barely fit your snake. You'll need at least two, one for the warm side and one for the cool side.

For the heat, a heat lamp is great but only if used correctly. You'll need an infrared temperature gun to check what the surface temperature of the bedding below the lamp is. You can get one from Amazon, this one is great and cheap. You want the temperature of the bedding to be around 85°f directly below the lamp. You'll want to put one of the hiding spots close to the warmest spot so he can choose to warm up while being hidden. As for bulbs, the one you have is likely going to be too hot but it depends how big your tank is. It might be some trial and error with dimmer bulbs. Have the bulb on for ~14 hours a day, really whenever it's naturally daylight where you live.

Milk snakes are easy and room temperature is fine for the rest of the tank during the day. The light will be off for night and as long as your house stays warmer than around 70° it's okay for the snake to have a night time temperature drop.

You might need to add a humid hide if you notice trouble with shed getting stuck. This is as simple as a Tupperware container with a hole cut into it and filled with damp sphagnum moss. It's just to offer a more humid place for the snake to use.

Grab some silk plants and fill the tank. Snakes like to feel invisible so don't worry if the plants take up a lot of space, he'll love crawling through them.

Milksnakes should be fed once a week as babies and once every 10-14 days as adults. You'll want frozen mice the same thickness as the snake or a little smaller. Thaw it in cold water or in the fridge before meal time and then warm it up with warm water right before feeding. You'll need feeding tongs, snakes like to "accidentally" grab fingers when in feeding mode. Don't pick the snake up for at least 48 hours after feeding to allow him to digest in peace. Also, there is a myth that you should feed in a separate container to avoid cage aggression. This is false and outdated information, just feed him in his enclosure.

Snakes don't require handling and would be perfectly fine without any. But they will tolerate it to some extent. Generally, only handle once or twice a week for 5-10 minutes maximum.

Clean up poop/urates as you see them, clean and refill the water dish at least every few days. Eventually you'll want to replace all the bedding. Depending on the snake and size of the tank, this could be every 3 months or every 9 months, just judge when the bedding is getting smelly.

Butterball.com has tons of info on turkeys. Get a probe thermometer with an alarm, put the probe between thigh and breast and set to 170F. I dry the turkey with paper towels and coat with melted butter and Adobo, if you can't find Adobo, kosher salt will do. I don't measure, but don't go too heavy on the salt. Get a silicone roasting rack too which lifts the turkey above the liquids in the pan. Add celery, onion and carrots chopped up to the bottom and add some chicken broth. Put the turkey breast down, this allows juices to go thru the breast and juice it up. Brining is a pain and unnecessary to me, I've done it and don't get any big difference. Be sure to have the turkey rest or all the juice will come out , you cover with foil on the counter and make the gravy will waiting.

You don't stuff the bird because you have to overcook the turkey to cook the stuffing. Dressing on the side is just as good. If you can't find premade stuffing bread, just bake some stale bread till it is dried, online you can find details. I use a wok, but a good skillet will do. I weigh some ingredients, because what is a large onion? I use bouillon, but you can use broth.

A saucier pan has rounded corners for easier mixing, but a regular sauce pan is okay. You can use only poultry drippings if you have more. You strain the pan dripping and then reduce by half for better flavor. You should get a fat separator cup to get rid of the fat.

I've made a lot of turkeys and tried many things and this is my way of getting a great turkey. As to looks, I don't care what a turkey looks like when done, I am going to eat it, not have a photo session with it!!! LOL! As for carving, any good knife will work for the breast and a boning knife is great for the legs and thighs. Wings you eat off the bone.

~<DRESSING - GOOD OLD COUNTRY-BASIC >~

1-12oz bag-6C herbed dry stuffing bread.........4 oz crushed Ritz crackers.......6 oz bulk breakfast sausage.......8 oz ground pork......4 large stalks celery, chopped......1 large onion-212g, chopped......1 1/2 cup chicken bouillon......1/2 cup water.......1 tsp salt.......1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper.......1 1/2 Tbsp dried sage or 6g fresh........1 1/2 Tbsp dried parsley or 6g fresh......1 Tbsp poultry seasoning.......2 eggs, beaten......1 stick-8 Tbsp butter........2 large loaf pans

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

PREPARE INGREDIENTS - Put everything in separate bowls:

Chop celery.

Weigh out onion and chop.

Grind crackers.

Put herbed bread in 12 qt container along with ground crackers.

Beat eggs and add to bread mixture, stir.

Grind parsley and sage.

Put parsley and sage into small bowl, add poultry seasoning, salt and pepper, mix.

Saute sausage and pork in large wok.

Add browned meat to container and mix.

Add butter to wok and when it melts add celery and onion with sage, poultry seasoning, salt and pepper mixture..

Sauté until transparent, 5 to 10 minutes. Pour over bread mixture and stir.

Add bouillon slowly to bread mixture, stir.

If needed add water.

Pour stuffing into a greased pans. Bake at 350 for 25 minutes or until thermometer reads 165F.

https://www.amazon.ca/Polder-362-90-Digital-Oven-Thermometer/dp/B0000CF5MT

https://www.amazon.ca/Sundlight-Silicone-Roasting-Microwave-Bakeware/dp/B07VC3FXYG

​

~~~~~< GRAVY - POULTRY >~~~~~

3 Tbsp butter.....1/4 tsp sage.....1/4 tsp sage.....3 tsp flour.......1 cup poultry broth or bouillon.......1/2 cup saved poultry drippings(opt)..............Salt and Pepper to taste........2 tsp wine or 2 tsp cup cider and 1/4 tsp cider vinegar or 1/4 tsp lemon juice

Set heat to 3 and in saucier pan melt butter, add spices.

Keep cooking butter till it is popping, you want water to boil off about 5 minutes.

Slowly add flour. Cook until brown, 10-20 minutes.

Add wine or cider mixture, stir.

Add poultry drippings and stir.

Add stock a little at a time till you get the right consistency. Should stick to bottom of spoon.

https://www.amazon.ca/OXO-Good-Grips-Fat-Separator/dp/B0002YTGIQ

Theres a guide on the sidebar to the right that should cover most of the basic care requirements. It will take him some time to get used to his new environment, so its ok if he seems extra skittish for a while and uninterested in food, just keep handling to a minimum for now. They can be very timid when they are still young too. They use their tail as a fat reserve and can go a while not eating. Generally a nice plump tail is a sign of good health and they will spend most of the day sleeping anyway.

Tiles are great flooring, safe and easy to clean. You dont need a thermometer stuck to the side of the tank as the floor temperature is more important than the air temperature. The floor temp needs to be around 90 F on one side and about 75-80 on the cooler side so they can regulate their body temp if the get too warm. Above 95 is too much. They need the 90 to be able to digest their food so it is important. Grab a cheap infared one like this to check your temps with. They are super cheap, more accurate than the pet store ones, and you can spot check temps around your tank instantly. It will make your life much easier.

A 10 gallon tank is ok for now, but a 20 gallon long will suit him much better as they can be pretty active at night and will appreciate the extra floor space to explore. It also helps in achieving a heat gradient which is hard to do with something as small as a 10 gallon.

Typically the best way to heat the tank is a heating pad under the tank controlled by a thermostat to keep it at a steady temp. The heat mat should cover about 1/3 the floor of the tank. This setup is usually simpler and cheaper than lights that the stores will try to sell, more reliable temperatures too. Heating lamps arent really necessary because they are not basking animals and prefer to hide all day then come out on the warm rocks at night, but they are ok to help give hem a day/night cycle if the room is dark and you can use a regular light bulb if its cold where you live to raise the temps just a little.

What are you feeding them? You did make sure to grab the proper calciumand multivitamins right?

I usually split my briskets between the point and the flat.

You dont have to do that. However I always put the temp prob in the smallest cut of meat. When its done move the probe to the next largest.

Fat melts at a specific temperature. I get cooking steaks to a feel however unless you cook the same size and cut regularly getting it right isn’t going to happen.

I was a line cook for years. Cooking to feel is easy when you make 30 steaks a day. Really hard when you cook a few briskets a month. And if you are wrong, getting a brisket back to temp is a bitch.

Tp20 is a cheap remote probe available on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GE77QT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_theeAbZ6JXVWA

but almost any will do fine. Having multiples could help a lot. Alternatively if you are confident in your built in smoker thermometer you could use the second grill temp probe in another piece of meat.

As for trimming or separating aaron franklin from Austin, TX, an award winning bbqer, has shared quite a few of his processes on youtube and at bbq university. The audience in the second video is made up of bbq restaurant owners and competitive bbqers looking to up their game. Im sure there are a few hobbiest in the bunch but not a lot at the price of it.


Trimming
https://youtu.be/VmTzdMHu5KU

Brisket Camp 2015
https://youtu.be/yaMgt1Altys

Best of luck! Im sure it will turn out great!

Charcoal grilling is great! The only additional purchase I would make is for a chimney starter, if you haven't already. Weber makes a great one that will last you a while and is like $15. You can use newspapers, balled up paper towels, or the little chimney lighter cubes to start the chimney, whichever is easiest for you. I like the cubes, they're very consistent and easy.

This article from Serious Eats talks about several different two zone charcoal setups. They're all fairly basic, but they are good to know.

When you purchase charcoal, don't buy any of the stuff with the lighter fluid on it. And don't add lighter fluid. If you get the chimney starter right you'll never need it. It imparts a yucky chemical flavor in the meat. I prefer briquettes. They are more consistent for me and they are much cheaper where I live. Lots of people love lump charcoal but it's a lot harder for a beginner I think.

Learn where your grill vents are. They're much more important to charcoal grilling since they are how you control the heat.

These are all great resources that have been posted. Read through them and keep coming back here! This is a great community.

Edit: If you don't already have an instant read thermometer, you should definitely buy one. It's one of my most used tools in the kitchen and on the grill. There are a ton out there. I've had the Lavatools Javelin for a while now and love it. It reads the temp quickly, it isn't crazy expensive, and it looks nice. It really stepped up what I was pulling off the grill.

I have a Mexican Black Kingsnake in a 40 gal (36x16x18). I bought a zoomed 8x12 UTH for it. (I bought this one since it was labelled for 40 gal.)

I have a UTH and a CHE. I use the UTH for a hotspot and use the CHE for ambient temp (my room is usually at like 68-70F). If your room is usually like 72F to 75F normally, I don't think you need a CHE. I use the jump start thermostats and they work fine for my needs. I plan on getting the herpstat one when I upgrade my tank when my boi is an adult.

The UTH probe should be sandwiched inbetween the adhesive pad and the bottom of the glass tank, all of it outside of the tank. You can try to use silicone caulk or hot glue to adhere it to the glass inside the tank but burrowing species like kingsnakes can dislodge them and through off the thermostat. Do NOT use tape inside the enclosure at all for any reason. Also, if your tank doesn't have little legs on it, make sure you use the silicon stickies on your tank at the corners so it's lifted up a bit. The air flow will help stop your UTH from burning your table/floor.

I put the CHE prob in the middle-ish of the tank suction cupped on the glass right above the substrate. I want the ambient temp to be about 75F. I set it up on top of the screen on the hotspot side, this way both the CHE and the UTH doesnt need to be set super high to heat up the substrate. The hotspot is 84-86F depending on how deep the substrate is. I let my cool side go down to 72F. At night cool side hits 68F.

I use aspen substrate. As long as the bag says its 100% aspen then is fine for snakes as well.

I use something similar to the number 2 thermometer/hydrometer to measure the ambient temp in the middle and cool sides. I just leave those two inside the tank. For my hotspot I use a laser thermometer like this to measure the surface temp. I also will periodically sweep the laser gun over the middle and cool side to kinda spot check that my thermometers are working.

For deep cleaning I use bleach and for spot cleaning I use cholohexidine and vinegar. (I make my own solutions with the ratios recommended in this video )

I don't have or use the emergency heat pads yet, so no recommendations there.

If you're getting a baby please also budget for clutter. They like having fake leaves when going from one hide to the other. And my MBK really loves climbing! Corns especially are semi-arboreal so they need it more.

Good luck!

Stay at home Dad here. I cook for six every night. Prior to about four years ago the most cooking I did was on the grill. I started with the Betty Crocker Cook book. Literally. Red book in binder format. It has simple comfort food and the recipes are simple. I now have 30+ cookbooks, some better than others. (Giada's are only good for the pictures.) Once I started cooking, I then started watching Alton Brown for other ideas and other techniques, but without a firm base of at least six months of trial and error, it won't help much. Without that, it'd be like watching a Michael Jordan video having never even picked up a basketball and thinking you could play like him. Get used to the environment first.

Start simple. Do a chicken breast and a vegetable from a can. Maybe rice. But note what works and what doesn't. Get a feel for what a "done" chicken breast looks like and feels like. Same with a pork chop. Same with some pasta. Get yourself used to the chemistry and physics of cooking first, then work on more complicated techniques and dishes.

Starter Supplies:

• One good frying pan - nonstick
  
  
• One good Chef's knife - [$25 on Amazon]
  (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008M5U1C2/182-6325493-8824318)
  
  
• Cooking Thermometer - $14 on Amazon - Cook all meats to 160 degrees F to start. You can get fancier later. To start don't poison your guests.
  
  
• Flexible cutting boards - $5 Amazon This makes it easy to chop and then dump straight into the pot/pan.
  
  Clean while you cook.
  Salt and butter are always your friend. And cheese. If something sucks, add cheese. Good luck!!! Report back please.
  
  
  TL;DR Just start cooking. Keep it simple, but start cooking.

Chili - the first time I made this, I just used ground turkey, which is why that's in the recipe... I've also made it with pork and bison/beef and it's good. Whichever you prefer. Sometimes I use pureed tomatoes instead of diced. You can use both, if you like. If the chili is too liquidy, put a few tablespoons of cornstarch into a glass with a little water, mix until it's blended, and then add to the chili, and cook - this will help thicken in up a bit.

8 strips (half a package) of bacon

1 red onion

1 small bulb of garlic

3 to 4 tablespoons tomato paste

2 lbs extra lean ground turkey

1 large can diced tomatoes

1 can baked beans

1 can mixed beans

2 tablespoons maple syrup

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 tablespoon Sriracha hot sauce

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon cinnamon

salt and pepper, to taste

.

Chop bacon into small bits and cook in a large pot. Add chopped onion, saute until clear, and add minced garlic. Add ground meat, and cook until it's done (sometimes I add some of the spices now). Add tomato paste, tomatoes, and both cans of beans to the pot, as well as the spices and maple syrup. Simmer for at least half an hour, but an hour is ideal. I tend to cook this a day ahead, and then reheat and simmer for another 20 minutes or so - I find it's better the next day.

Jamie Oliver's Guinness Pie is amazingly delicious.

Also, a digital thermometer - like this - is your best friend when cooking meat.

If you're a fan of breakfast food, check this out. It's so good.


Edit: Cornbread goes wonderfully with chili. I leave out the green chile peppers, and replace with chopped green onions. Sometimes I put about a tsp of chili powder in, and sometimes a little cayenne to give it some kick.