Reddit mentions: The best thermometers & weather instruments
We found 385 Reddit comments discussing the best thermometers & weather instruments. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 67 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. AcuRite 00891A3 Indoor/Outdoor Digital Thermometer with Humidity
- Displays indoor and outdoor temperature, indoor humidity
- Integrated 10-foot weather-resistant temperature wire and probe
- Stands on desktop, shelf, mantel or mounts to wall; momentary backlight for easy reading at night
- Records minimum and maximum humidity and temperature levels for each day
- NOTE: May not function properly with certain types of Duracell batteries
Features:
Specs:
Color | Multicolor |
Height | 5.5 Inches |
Length | 1.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 0.2 |
Weight | 0.28 pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
2. ThermoPro TP65A Indoor Outdoor Thermometer Digital Wireless Hygrometer Temperature with Jumbo Touchscreen and Backlight Humidity Gauge
【Large Backlit Touchscreen】4''large LCD display features a backlit touchscreen, making the indoor outdoor weather station easier to read in dim light conditions and superbly simple to use.【Wireless Temperature and Humidity Monitor】 measures indoor/outdoor temperatures and humidity percentage...
Specs:
Color | White&grey |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 4.3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | with Jumbo Touchscreen and |
Weight | 0.38 Pounds |
Width | 3.3 Inches |
3. ThermoPro TP60S Digital Hygrometer Indoor Outdoor Thermometer Wireless Temperature and Humidity Gauge Monitor Room Thermometer with 200ft/60m Range Humidity Meter
【Informational】Weather stations wireless indoor outdoor records all time/24 hours MAX & MIN temperature and humidity readings; Wireless thermometer indoor outdoor with temperature trend arrows indicate whether it’s getting warmer or colder near the remote temperature monitor【Smart Design】I...
Specs:
Color | Indoor Outdoor Thermometer & Hygrometer |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 3.1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | with Temperature Gauge Humidity Meter, Wireless Outdoor Hygrometer, 200ft/60m Range |
Weight | 0.38125 Pounds |
Width | 2.6 Inches |
4. HOLDPEAK 866B Digital Anemometer Handheld Wind Speed Meter for Measuring Wind Speed, Temperature and Wind Chill with Backlight and Max/Min
- 🏹【STEADY WIND SPEED MEASUREMENT & HIGH ACCURACY】Wind Speed Range: 0.3-30m/s(MAX up to 69mph) and Accuracy of Wind Speed: ±5% dgts
- ⛳【ESSENTIALS FOR BAD WEATHER】You will know the hurricane trend before going out. HOLDPEAK anemometer provides fast measurement for analysis of critical environment conditions.
- 🎣【MULTIFUNCTIONAL ANEMOMETER YOU WILL NEED】Wind Speed, temperature and wind chill in one LCD display. Digital Anemometer Handheld measure wind speed in 5 units: m/s, km/h, ft/min, knots, mph.
- 🪁【MORE EXTRA SPECIFICATIONS THAN OTHERS WIND SPEED METER】Through the built-in temperature regulator to adjust C/F temperature. Record and recall Max/Min/Average/Current function. Low battery indication. Screw hole in the button can be connected a lanyard.
- 🎯【REASSURING AFTER-SALES SERVICE】Ship from US warehouse.We have perfect quality warranty. If the meter what you received have any quality issues, please contact our After-sales personnel in time and we will serve you in good faith.
Features:
Specs:
Color | 1Pcs 866B Anemometer |
Height | 1.49 Inches |
Length | 6.49 Inches |
Size | medium |
Weight | 0.440924524 Pounds |
Width | 3.34 Inches |
5. Maverick OT-3BBQ Kitchen Thermometer, Black
- Digital Barbeque/Grill Thermometer by Maverick Industries
- Digital LCD display shows elapsed cooking time, your choice of target temperature and constant average actual temperature from 122F–572F (50C–300C)
- Average temperature is updated every 10 seconds
- High Heat Probe and Wire Withstands up to 700F (371C)
- Detachable stand for countertop use, hanging bracket for wall and magnets for metal surfaces; Single AAA battery included
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 4.5 Inches |
Weight | 0.25 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
6. Bayou Classic 800-770 Brew Thermometer
- Large 3" diameter face with tempered glass
- Stainless steel flame spreader and hose guard
- 0-220 degrees
- 1/2" Bulkhead fittings
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 3.15 Inches |
Length | 3.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.75 Pounds |
Width | 3.15 Inches |
7. Proster Handheld Anemometer Portable Wind Speed Meter CFM Meter Wind Gauge with LCD Backlight for Weather Data Collection Outdoors Sailing Surfing Fishing
Proster Anemometer: m/s: 0.40~30.0 ±(2.0% reading+50); ft/m: 80~5900 ±(2.0% reading+50); km/h : 1.4~108.0 ±(2.0% reading+50); mile/h: 0.9~67.0 ±(2.0% reading+50); Knots: 0.8~58.0 ±(2.0% reading+50)CFM: 0 to 99990 0 to 9.999ft2; CMM: 0 to 99990 0 to 9.999ft2; CMS: 0 to 9999 0 - 9.999 m2Multi-fun...
Specs:
Color | Anemometer |
Height | 1.49 Inches |
Length | 6.49 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | red |
Weight | 0.70625 Pounds |
Width | 3.34 Inches |
8. AcuRite 02097M Wireless Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer with Humidity Sensor
- Displays indoor and outdoor temperature (Fahrenheit or Celsius) and humidity
- Totally wireless tabletop and Wall-mountable design for easy set-up and placement in any location
- Manually toggle between readings or enable auto-cycle mode to automatically toggle between indoor and outdoor readings
- Place the weather-resistant sensor outdoors in an area with sufficient shade
- Strong signal penetration (enhanced 433 MHz) up to 165 feet (50 meters)
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 2.7 Inches |
Length | 0.7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.25 Pounds |
Width | 2.8 Inches |
9. Ten Pack 1.5" Rain Gauge/Sprinkler Gauge, Wide Mouth, Bright Yellow Outdoor Water Measuring Tool 10 Piece
- Lets user calculate average rainfall or sprinkler output in a given timeframe
- Easy-to-read numerals printed on the sides
- Scaled in inches and millimeters
- Molded yellow transparent plastic housing; inch and centimeter scales
- Ships same or next day from New Resources Group
Features:
Specs:
Color | yellow |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 10 Inches |
Size | 10 Pack |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 8 Inches |
10. Kangkang@ LCD Digital Embedded Thermometer Hygrometer with External Probe for Incubator Aquarium Poultry Reptile Black
LCD Digital Embedded Thermometer Hygrometer with External Probe for Incubator Aquarium Poultry Reptile BlackWidely used in aquarium, poultry, reptile, incubator, greenhouse and so on1.5m long probe can test temperature and humidity of some special placesClear LCD digital displayComes with 4 pcs butt...
11. AcuRite 02049 Digital Thermometer with Indoor/Outdoor Temperature,White
Monitor indoor and outdoor temperature (Fahrenheit and Celsius) with trend arrows that indicate whether temperature is rising or fallingWireless all-weather outdoor sensor measures temperature conditions with precision and accuracyDisplays high and low records for past 12 hours, 24 hours, 36 hours, ...
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 2.25 Inches |
Length | 4.2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 0.4 |
Weight | 0.3 Pounds |
Width | 1.4 Inches |
12. Eve Room - Indoor Air Quality Monitor for tracking VOC, temperature & humidity, display, no bridge necessary, Bluetooth Low Energy (Apple HomeKit)
- Detect harmful VOC levels attributed to everyday items such as furniture, electronics, toys, and thousands more
- Observe how activities like cooking and cleaning pollute your home
- Know when to ventilate your child's room, sleeping spaces, living room, or kitchen
- See air quality, temperature, and humidity at a glance via the high-contrast e-ink display
- Access measurement history in the Eve app, and gain insight to cultivate healthy habits
- Enjoy six-plus weeks of wireless use on a single charge via USB
- Get up and running in a flash with quick & easy set up and no need for a bridge or gateway
- Apple HomeKit-enabled for outstanding ease of use and advanced security
- ** This version is not supported by Thread **
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.13 Inches |
Length | 0.59 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | September 2018 |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 2.13 Inches |
13. TFA-Dostmann Thermometer-Hygrometer Instrument Room Control Anthrazit-White
Specs:
Height | 0.9 Inches |
Length | 5.3 Inches |
Weight | 0.35 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
14. Condar FlueGard Flue Gas Thermometer Probe
Condar's FlueGard (3-39) thermometer is designed for insertion into a double-wall stovepipe.Measuring the temperature up to 1700 degrees Fahrenheit.Dimension: 8" LX 5" WX 2" HTo install a FlueGard Thermometer, drill a 1⁄4 inch hole in the outer wall, and a 3⁄16 inch hole through the inner wa...
Specs:
Color | Multicolor |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Width | 5 Inches |
16. Ambient Weather WS-8482-3107 7-Channel WiFi Remote Monitoring Weather Station with Indoor/Outdoor Temperature & Humidity, Floating Pool, Spa & Pond Thermometer
- Bluetooth wireless technology
- Rapid Charge: 10 Minutes = 4 Hours; 22 Hours of Total Battery Life
- Noise isolating fit
- Microphone, call, track, and volume control
- Collapsible design
Features:
17. Tel-Tru BQ225 Barbecue Thermometer, 2 inch Aluminum dial, 2.5 inch stem, 100/500°F
- 1/4"-20 threaded bushing with wing nut
- Requires a 1/4" diameter hole
- Stock item, ships in one business day
- Stainless steel heavy duty construction
- Made in USA
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.94 Inches |
Weight | 0.41 Pounds |
Width | 2.09 Inches |
18. Storm Glass Crystal Weather Predictor, Teardrop Bottle, 8” - Weather Barometer Globe Forecaster with Wood Base - Stunning, Decorative Centerpieces and Desk Accessories for Home Decor
- A GREAT CONVERSATION STARTER: The history and inner workings of atmospheric pressure weather glass technology makes these storm predicting bottles great talking pieces. Made popular in the 1860s for the widespread belief that the state of crystallization within the liquid correlated with electrical tension, these weather globes are as beautiful as they are interesting.
- WHAT THE CRYSTALS MEAN: According to Admiral FitzRoy , who captained the boat that Darwin took to the Galapagos islands: If the liquid is clear, the weather will be bright and clear. If the liquid is cloudy , the weather will be cloudy with precipitation. Small flurries indicate humid or foggy conditions. Fully-formed crystal stars throughout the liquid mean snow is coming and, if the liquid contains small stars on winter days, expect snow. Crystals at the bottom indicate frost.
- STUNNING CRAFTSMANSHIP: Boasting ultra-clear glass with white, snowflake crystals and natural wood stands, these storm glass bottles exude sophistication with a hint of airy etherealness. At 8” tall , these snow globes are large enough to make their presence known but delicate as to not overpower any motif. A unique, stylish addition to weddings, Christmas parties , special events or to decorate hotel rooms, dining rooms or living rooms - you’ll find plenty of uses for this forecast predictor.
- PREMIUM BUILD: We pride ourselves in making high-quality products that will provide your family years of happiness. Each stormglass barometer is built with a thick, durable wall , so it’s resistant to cracking and breaking (within reason). This means kids can enjoy it, too! Our weather prediction glass is a great learning tool, encouraging enthusiasm and interest in the sciences. Keep one in their bedroom or encourage them to take it to school for show-and-tell. There’s so many possibilities!
- SATISFACTION GUARANTEED: At Positive Products Inc., we are all about positive experiences and positive results. We want your customer experience to be top-notch which means 100% satisfaction. If you aren’t pleased with your purchase, return it within 30 days for a full refund.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear Crystal Glass W/ Light Wood Base |
Size | 8" x 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" |
19. BTMETER Anemometer Handheld BT816B Digital Wind Speed Meter Gauge with Thermometer Temperature Backlit for HVAC CFM Shooting Boat, High Precision Accuracy +/- 5% 2℃
- ✔️【Digital Wind Meter Accuracy +/- 5% 2℃】Accurately measuring wind speed 0.3~30m/s (±5% of rdg ), temperature -10℃~45℃ (±2℃)and wind chill in high accuracy and real time measurement
- ✔️【Multi-Mode Wind Speed Anemometer】Manual/Auto power off;Wind Speed Unit Selection (m/s,Ft/min,Knots, Km/hr, Mph);Max/Average/Current;℃/℉ exchange with back light. Accurately and efficiently testing in real time.
- ✔️【Multi-Purpose Digital Anemometer】BT-816B wind speed meter can be used not only for outdoor activities, like shooting, sailing, mountain climbing measurement, but also used for electrical equipment testing, like HVAC appliances and research measurement from navigation to aerial survey.
- ✔️【Compact Anemometer with Thermometer Handheld】Easy one-handed design with LCD Digital Backlight Wind Meter, it’s compact so you can carry it anywhere you may need to Measure Wind Speed and Temperature
- ✔️【Money Back Guarantee】 BTMETER provides 60-Day Money-Back Guarantee for any quality problems.Add to Cart, Buy it and use it, for any quality problems, We’ll replace you
Features:
Specs:
Color | 1 pcs |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.11684499886 Pounds |
20. Netatmo Mount, for Netatmo Rain Gauge and Wind Gauge - Retail Packaging - Black
- One mount for Netatmo Rain Gauge or Wind Gauge
- Makes it easier to attach your Rain / Wind Gauge to a wall, roof, pole or railing
- Standard camera mount thread: 1/4-20 UNC bolt
- Two mounts are required to install a Rain Gauge as well as a Wind Gauge
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.21825763938 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on thermometers & weather instruments
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where thermometers & weather instruments are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Enclosure
Glass tanks with screen lids are very bad for ball pythons, you would be looking at getting a tub set up (using a rubber maid/sterilite /iris tub & soldering or drilling holes into the sides - here is a good tutorial of setting that up ). Or you would be wanting to get a PVC enclosure. I have an Animal Plastics T8 for my ball python, it did take about five weeks for it to show up, though. So if you want to go this route, plan way ahead. The tub route is cheaper, but takes more DIY skills. The PVC cage route is more expensive, but very aesthetically pleasing. To make a glass tank work, I suggest covering three sides with foam board to help insulate, and covering most of the screen lid with saran wrap or foil to keep humidity in.
Humidity
A ball python needs at the minimum 60% humidity. This is incredibly difficult to achieve in a glass tank with a screen top. A tub or PVC enclosure makes this super easy. Humidity should be measured on the ground with a digital hygrometer. The stick on humidity gauges that pet stores hawk are often inaccurate and can cause serious injury or even death if they come unstuck from the wall and stick to your snake. I use this two in one hygrometer / thermometer.
Temperature
Ball pythons need a thermogradiant w one end at between 88F and 90F & a cool end of 78Fish - the ambient temperature should never be below 75F, & should be around high 70's. In a tub or a PVC enclosure, you will want an under tank heater - heat tap, heat mats, heat pads. I recommend the flexwatt that you can get with the Animal Plastics enclosure or the ultratherm from Reptile Basics. If you have trouble keeping the ambient up in the PVC enclosure, you may want to get a radiant heat panel, which installs to the ceiling of the enclosure. For a glass tank, you will probably need a ceramic heat emitter installed over the cage to keep ambient temperatures appropriate. CHE gives off no visible light. Red lights are often given out like candy at PetCo/Smart places as good ways to provide heat at night. They are not. Ball pythons can see red light, and it messes up their day/night cycle. I don't have recommendations for CHE because I don't use them.
Thermostats
Any & all heat sources you have for your BP need to be controlled by a thermostat. Failure to appropriately control your heat source can lead to it quickly becoming 120F & injuring your snake. I highly recommend Spyder Robotics Herpstats. You can get larger ones w more probes so that you can control all your heat sources w one unit. They have a ton of good safety features & a lot of people on this sub can answer any questions you have on them. The cheaper ones are around $100ish. If that is too much for you, there are a lot of people who use the Jumpstart thermostats, but they have less safety features & can wear out quickly. They also make a loud clicking sound periodically. I cannot stress this enough, this is not a place to cut corners. You need a thermostat.
Thermometers
I already linked to my recommended combo hygro/thermometer. This thermometer is great because it has a small probe to measure "outside" temperatures. I use this probe to measure the floor on my warm side (I hide it on the ground under the substrate so I know the absolute hottest place my BP can get to). I place the unit itself on the cool side, so I know all my temps & the humidity on one unit. You will also want an IR thermometer gun (there might be better recs than this one). This is good for spot checking temperatures without moving around probes & also checking the temps of the prey items.
Hides
You want at least two similar, enclosed hides. Half logs are NOT suitable, they are too open & they stress out the BP, as they can't watch both ends at once for a predator. Some of the best hides are these ones from Reptile Basics. They are enclosed on all sides with just a small entrance. They are dishwasher safe & also very cheap. You want them to be similar if not identical, so that the snake does not have to choose between feeling safe & thermoregulating. You will want one on each side of the temperature gradient. Feel free to add more that are different for diversity in the enclosure. I also have some fake vines/leaves in mine so that she feels more invisible. Go to a craft store or the fish supplies for these, the ones marketed for reptiles are way overpriced.
Water dish
You will want a water bowl that is large enough for the BP to soak in. This should be changed daily, as they like to poop & pee in their water. You'll want something sturdy as they like to tip them over. I got some crock dishes from Reptile Basics. You don't need any water treatment for the snakes water unless you treat water for yourself. If you tap is safe for human consumption, it's safe for your snake.
Feeding
BP's eat every 5 - 7 days as hatchlings and yearlings, as adults they can go longer. BP's are NOTORIOUSLY picky eaters. The ideal IMO for a BP is a proper sized rat fed either pre-killed or frozen/thawed. I feed frozen/thawed rats from Perfect Prey. Just a heads up - they ship with fiber glass insulation & dry ice. I try to open the packages outside so my cats don't get into it. They come in freezer bags and I just store them in my regular freezer. If even one thing is wrong in your husbandry, your BP will likely not eat.
How Much To Feed
The feeding amount depends on the weight of the BP. You will want a digital kitchen scale - you can get one cheaply at any box store. While under 750g, you want to feed about 10%-15% of their body weight about every 7 days. Once they are in their second year you want to feed 7%-10% of their body weight, after they are in their third year, you want to feed about 5% every 7 to 14 days. I document all feeding days and the weight of the prey in my google calender.
You should be weighing your snake at least once a month to track how much you should be feeding. You should not disturb or move or handle your snake for at least 48 hours after feeding.
Frozen / Thawed
I get the rat out the night before the day I want to feed. I put it in the fridge. About two hours before I feed, I get it out of the fridge and put it on the counter to get it to room temp. And then I soak it in a zip lock bag in warmish water (I use a temp gun to get water around 110F) for about 20 minutes, and use a temp gun to make sure the rat is around 100F, and then I run the head under running hot water until its 110F. The head of the prey should be warmer so the snake has a target. I then use tongs to move it around in the enclosure to mimic it being alive. She (usually) strikes pretty quickly. If she doesn't, I leave it in overnight, and throw it out in the morning if she doesn't eat it.
I prefer frozen thawed cause I can buy cheaply in bulk. It's also safer. As BP's get bigger, they require larger prey - and rats have sharp teeth and sharp claws and can seriously injure your snake.
Myths of Cage Aggression
You do not need a separate cage for feeding it. This is a myth. The best way to reduce stress at feeding time is to feed in their regular enclosure. This minimizes the risk of regurgitation.
Substrate
Stay away from aromatic woods - such as pine. A lot of people like to use coconut husk, unprinted newspaper, or paper towels. There are pros and cons to each. I like paper towels, they are cheap and easy to clean up messes with. I use PVC enclosure so I don't need a substrate that helps with humidity like coconut husk. This should be spot cleaned whenever a mess is made. Aspen chips can mold super easily so not really recommended. If you have a chip type substrate and are worry about ingestion of substrate while feeding, put a plate down before hand.
Shedding
Hatchlings shed more frequently, but you should expect regular shedding. Usually the most visible sign they are about to shed is them getting cloudy or "blue" eyes - just google image search for "ball python shed blue eyes". Once they "go into blue" you want to leave them alone as much as possible. Check in on them to refill their water & make sure their humidity is correct, but don't handle or disturb them while they are shedding. You will probably see them remove their skin about a week after they go blue. Right right before they shed, their eyes will clear up, but don't be fooled - if you haven't found their old skin they haven't shed yet. Once you have their old skin, you will want to remove it & inspect it. You might need to moisten it, but unroll it (there might be a poop in it) carefully & look for eye caps and make sure the whole skin is in one long piece. Then inspect the snake for any stuck shed. Don't pull off the stuck shed, but soak your BP in some warm water & it should come off mostly on its own. Stuck shed is usually a sign that humidity is off - so try to identify ways to increase humidity.
I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.
The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.
> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.
> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.
Original second level comment begins:
Final Tips: Bonus Round!
There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!
your BP isn't just thin, she's emaciated. you need to put some weight on her, but you need to do so gradually. you also really need to feed her f/t before she gets injured by live prey. if your enclosure is meeting her needs, and you're not causing her stress by handling her unnecessarily, she should eat f/t for you just fine. i guarantee she wasn't eating f/t at petsmart because she was stressed due to poor husbandry.
i'm going to dump a TON of information on you. some of it may be redundant, some of it may be useful. first, three detailed care sheets, a tub setup tutorial, and product recommendations to cover all types of enclosures. then i'll give you a breakdown of how i handled my emaciated BP, simultaneously putting weight on her safely and switching her from mice to rats. you'll fine more generalized feeding tips in the third care sheet. read everything thoroughly, then come back with any questions.
since i don't see any mention of what your enclosure is like, i'll start with this: glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link.
now for a suggested feeding regimen. if your BP will genuinely only eat live right now, you can safely start her on appropriately sized rat pinkies/fuzzies/pups. if their eyes haven't opened yet, they won't be able to bite her hard enough to cause injuries. once she fills out a little and can more comfortably skip a few meals, you should start working on switching her to f/t.
at the time of rescue, my BP's weight was 140g, meals were one fuzzy mouse with an estimated weight of 5g, meal schedule was "once every few weeks". here's a breakdown of the meal sizes, schedule, and switch from mice to rats i used. this is all f/t, so dealing with live will be a little different.
i continued scenting her rats for another couple of months, but that was more because it was easy [i have a corn who eats mice] than it being necessary. she was readily eating unscented rats within five months. a couple years later, i usually don't even have to warm up her rats beyond room temperature, though she does require some dangling with the tongs as she won't eat anything she hasn't "killed".
Cost Analysis
Tent Setup
$70 2' x 4' x 5' Mylar tent
$325 Lights: Horticulture Lighting Group 260 QB LED Kit
Climate Control
$100 ($90 + $10)4" Inline duct fan and Carbon Filter + Ducting/clamps from ACE
$21 Osculating Fan Purchased on a flash deal
Already on hand: Box Fan
$25 [Humidifier] (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sunbeam-Warm-Mist-Humidifier-SWM6000-BWM/32664862)
$45Dehumidifier$184" inline duct booster fanMeters (Ph, PPM, Soil, Temp and Humidity)
$18 Hygrometer for Temp/Humidity
$13 Ph Meter
$12 TDS PPM meter
$9 Soil Moisture, Light, Ph meter
Ph Control and Calibration
$9 Ph Control Kit
$14 Ph Calibration solution
Plants / Growing Medium
$80 Clones - $20 from dispensary. here's a link to the strain page and the clone page. Don't believe seeds are available.
$8 for 6ct 5 gal Smart Pot knockoff
$40 - Soil: Two bags of Happy Frog purchased from the local grow store. Ocean forest was sitting around.
$7 for 30ctStarter grow bags$14 - Scrog net: I believe it was a 25 or a 50ft roll of 1"x1" plastic garden fencing from Home Depot.
Nutrients
$100: Cyco 1 Litre Bottles
$20: Key To Life - Uptake
$45 Cyco Grow XL Super Phosphoric Acid
Miscelaneous Stuff:
$15 - random stuff from Walmart, etc.
$6 Spray Bottles
So to total that all out we're looking just over $1000 that I spent.
Red light isn't good, you'll want a heat mat (MAKE SURE you have a thermostat for it or it will get too hot) and possibly a ceramic heat emitter (also needs a thermostat) for air heat. What are the temps and humidity and how do you measure them? Glass tanks usually don't hold humidity well and often aren't good for bps. You need at least 2 good hides, one for each side. They should be snug and enclosed with only one opening, preferably identical, half logs don't work.
Someone should come by with a really good care sheet, read it, it has some great info. I know this might be a lot of information, but having a good setup is important and will save you headaches in the future.
Edit: I found the care sheet. Credit to u/_ataraxia.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Here's u/ataraxia's classic link dump I found on a other post. Although the informstion is written for bps (most common snake people have trouble with it seems- mostly due to the humedity) but the suggestions could definitely help you for the humedity aspect needed for your boa.
You should definitely read it through.
i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
I highly recommend you read the below information. Guaranteed that you'll be completely redoing your set up after reading all of this.
Credit: u/_ataraxia
The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. Read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry, due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. Wood enclosures can also be suitable, if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. I'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
If you set up a good enclosure, and the temperatures and humidity are correct with no special treatment, the most work you need to do is feed every 1-2 weeks, spot clean the substrate and clean the water dish as needed [once or twice a week], and do a full enclosure cleaning every 1-6 months.
I am a bot programmed to automatically provide the following content by /u/_Ataraxia when summoned. Link to the most recent version of this content here
The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Ball Python Care Guides
Set-up Recommendations
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First of all. It's very good you recognize that you need help in learning how to care for the snake.
Second, here is a big link dump created by another regular user u/_ataraxia all credit for this goes to her.
the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
u/ataraxia has amazing information for ball pythons. You should definitely read it through. Glass tanks are not ideal for Bps, so this should help. Here is her normal dump of information I took from another post.
i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Reposting the famous u/ _ataraxia info:
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Sounds like you were getting outdated or flat-out incorrect information and those 'experienced snake owners' are likewise misinformed. There are very few snakes that legitimately have evolved to thrive on sand-based substrate (irony being the Sand Boa is not one of them; they live in sandy soil which is very different composition than straight sand). The Ball Python is native to the svannah/jungles of Sub-Saharan Africa. Its dirt, soil, and burrows. Not a majority or even significant amount of sand.
Additionally, if I extrapolate correctly from this singular picture, your BP is also in a glass enclosure and has a log-style hide. The former makes keeping humidity in the 55~80% range a difficult exercise, and the latter, is a stressor as BPs do best with a hide that has a single-entrance or is cave-like; the more points of contact, the better, and a single entrance means they can feel safer.
I'm going to steal _ataraxia's ball python dump and toss it below:
i'm going to dump a bunch of links to get you on the right track. the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
It mostly depends on how much you're willing to spend.
I wouldn't recommend your suggested model. You have to open up the lid to see how warm it is (like you said). It also doesn't have any alarm functionality which warns when temperature drops above or below a certain point.
A great cheaper option would be a $40 Thermoworks DOT with a clip to attach the probe right above the grill. Nice, simple, accurate, great quality.
Cheaper version of the DOT would be the $22 Maverick OT-3BBQ. I don't know much about it but to me it looks kinda cheap. Thermoworks has a great reputation so if I want a single probe thermometer I would go for the DOT.
Problem with the DOT is it has only one probe. You can't measure the temperature of the grill and your meat at the same time.
A slightly more expensive option is this $60 Maverick ET732. It has two probes. One for the grill, one for the meat you're cooking. Plus it's wireless. So you can bring the receiver in the house while your grill is doing low and slow. Probably the best value of all models.
The same idea, but better quality, would be the $100 Thermoworks Smoke. It's very accurate, easy to operate, robust, and works more reliable than the Maverick ET732 from what I've seen. If you can afford it I would go for the Smoke.
Other options are the $50 iGrill Mini and the $100 iGrill 3 from Weber. Both options work only with a smartphone. Is has some nifty features like displaying the temperature history in a graph but it connects via bluetooth and has a bad range. You can't go too far without the connection dropping. Also not so handy that you have to rely on your smartphone all the time. You can't do a quick glance at your thermometer to see the temperature. You have to open the app instead.
Other people like the $190 Fireboard Best of both worlds kinda but expensive. Both a display and smartphone connectivity over Wifi (which means longer range). Up to 6 probes to track multiple pieces of meat at the same time. It does look nice and certainly has it fans but $190 is a lot and I doubt I will need more than 2 probes frequently.
Note that the Thermoworks Smoke will have a separate Wifi module soon which allows smartphone connectivity as well. But it probably won't be cheap. I heard $80 for the extra module.
You're going to want to pick up something like this. You set a temperature and an acceptable threshold (i have mine varying by only one degree), and it will automatically turn the heat lamp off and on to keep it at a consistant temperature.
I also have a under-tank heat mat for my hot side, which is the main thing used to warm my snake. I absolutely recommend getting one to put under your tank. Corns like to burrow and will get more benefit to having one on the hot side. I just use the heat lamp to keep the ambient air in the tank at an acceptable level. You will want to get a separate controller for the heat mat.
Edit: I also have an Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer just chilling in the tank to get a more accurate reading inside. Your tank atmosphere is going to usually be a bit different than the atmosphere in your room. I have the "inside" number reading the ambient temp of the tank, the "outside" number reading the inside of the under-tank mat (controller probe goes between mat and glass on the outside, and this prob sticks to the glass on the inside under the substrate), and it also tells me the humidity in the tank.
You want to keep your numbers as consistant as possible. I like to shoot for 85 degrees on the hot side, 75 degrees on the cool side, and between 40%-60% humidty. I hope this information helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
Edit 2: GoHerping does a great care guide video on YouTube, which is where I got most of my setup and care info from. There is also a link to their discord on the YouTube page that is full of friendly people that can answer a lot of your questions.
Edit 3: You're going to be better off using a Ceramic Heat Emitter instead of a bulb. It just produces heat and no light, which will be better with the controller ( you don't want the light isn't constantly turning off and on). Corns don't need UVB either, and do fine with just natural lighting (assuming the light in the room still follows the normal day/night cycle).
There are some things in your description that could be cause for concern. I'm going to address specific details in your post, and include a link at the end. Please make sure you read through the link at the end!
First, is your heat pad hooked up to a thermostat? If not, unplug it and do not use it until you have a thermostat. A thermostat is even more essential than a thermometer. An unregulated heat pad is dangerous. Do NOT use a heat pad without a thermostat, or you risk serious burns to your snake! Two inexpensive models are InkBird and Jumpstart/Hydrofarm.
Thermometers and humidity gauges are also very important. Ball Pythons have specific heat and humidity needs. They will reject food, get sick, or have bad sheds if their temperatures and humidity are not on-par. Don't wait on this! And don't waste your time on analog dials. Start with an inexpensive digital thermometer/hygrometer to make sure your conditions are accurately monitored.
Neither the "daytime" nor the "infrared" lights are really appropriate. Snakes can see the light from both. You want a bulb that can be left on overnight without bothering the snake. Plus ambient light from a window is usually enough unless your room is particularly dark. Ditch both of your current heat lights and get a single Ceramic Heat Emitter bulb instead. It emits heat, but no light, and can be left running 24/7. ALSO get a lamp dimmer for your heat lamp, so you can more specifically control its heat output.
Next, ball pythons really should have two hides, one on the hot side and one on the cool so they don't have to sacrifice feeling safe to thermoregulate. Please get a second hide!
Now, with those specifics addressed, I highly recommend you read the following link dump by _Ataraxia. She did a good job compiling the most common advice on this sub. Pay special attention to those care sheets - read them all the way through.
You'll likely find things about your current enclosure (like aspen, which has a tendency to mold and doesn't retain humidity well) aren't quite appropriate for proper ball python care. We're here to help you and provide recommendations to ensure the long, happy life of your new scaly friend.
u/_ataraxia has a lot of good information. I've stolen their list of links and information for you to go through, but all the credit for this belongs to them. (Also I don't know how to embed links into the comments since I'm a reddit noob so please excuse the messiness)
the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations in case you need to get any supplies yourself.
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
spyder robotics (http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1) makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat.
heat tape (http://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-tape) or ultratherm heat pads (http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-heat-pads) are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options.
a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer (https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00891A3-Outdoor-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001BO8CUE/) allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
an infrared thermometer (https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/) allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
these hide boxes (http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes) are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
edit: Just fixed some formatting to make it easier to read.
Ok I will give tips in the order you presented the info.
>40 gallon tank.
This could be a bit on the large side for your snake so I would start by blacking out the back and sides. You can do this with construction paper, foamcore board, or spray paint if you have someplace else for the snake to live for at least a few days. Pet stores usually sell a scenery backer meant for this. Doing this will make the snake feel less out in the open and thus safer.
>Aspen bedding
I get my aspen bedding from tractor supply in a big bail. You might consider trying coco husk which will help with keeping humidity up.
> 1 hide
I would have 2 identical tight fitting hides (This is how tight they should be)so that your snake can thermo regulate without prioritizing safety.
> 2 branches
Make sure these are secure and won't fall over.
> and a sugar skull for design
Cool.
>Have a UTH because ive heard those are best forglass tanks.
These are great for many setups but you should have temperature controlled. I recommend a thermostat. Here is a cheap one. You should place the probe on the inside against the glass or you can place it under the UTH if you have an infared thermometer to check your glass temp. remember to point the these thermometer directly at the glass from the top straight down. You must shoot perpendicular to the surface you are measuring.
> Havent fed him yet because he was fed before I bought him.
That's good. I would give him a week and offer a rat that is 10% of the snakes weight. If the snake will eat frozen thawed I recommend that. I would feed every 7 to 10 days at that size. I would thaw the rodent in hot (not boiling) water in a ziplock bag until you are sure the rodent is thawed in the center. The ziplock bag is to keep the rodent dry so you can feed in your snakes enclosure. You don't want substrate to stick to the rodent and it will be fine if its dry and you supervise the feeding.
> Whats a good way to control humidity?? Having a hard time keeping it steady.
Try covering most of the screen top. You don't need that much ventilation as your snake won't be soiling its bedding regularly. You will spot clean any problems and so you can get away with much less airflow then with rodents. Here is a tutorial if you want to do it up nice. Adjust how much ventilation you have until you get the right humidity. On that note I like this for a thermostat/hygrometer.
>And should I have a heat lamp ?
I would not use a heat lamp unless you need it to keep a warm side of 90F under the hide and an ambient temp of 80F. A heat lamp will suck humidity out of the air.
Oh for sure, here's where I'm at (copy pasted from a comment I made a while back):
I've had quite a few set ups in the past, and this one is my favorite by far. It's made in such a way, that I can close all the doors and it would be unnoticed. If it's dead silent you can hear the 6" fan running, but with the AC running you can't notice it at all. It's great!
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So my set up, is also a closet, that is slightly bigger than my tent. So in order to manage heat better I may take my tent out and put mylar on the closet walls. I like having the tent so I can have clones/saplings in the closet with light, and have my flowering ones stay in complete darkness. I'll try to take a photo for you too!
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I also, just ordered my 480W Quantum Board light, which arrives on May 29th! I know I could do more to better manage heat and not need a new light, but this seems like an opportunity to upgrade so I'll take it.
I can't help you with your current situation, but generally once you have mould you'll always have it, as there are always mould spores floating about. They like high humidity and warmth which is abundant in Edinburgh flats. Cheap quality chests of drawers and wardrobes are usually the culprit too as they haven't been treated with anti-mould paint\spray.
If you can afford it, or any landlords are reading this you should provide the flat with a good quality dehumdifier, one that has a laundry setting. I have a nice little 10l one and I take it with me from flat to flat.
Get a good quality digital hygrometer and thermometer that has a min\max setting, like this one.
I also make a mould check part of my daily cleaning routine
Daily:
Weekly: